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Best Selling Genuine Replacement Wheel Bearings

  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Replacement Wheel Bearing Parts
  • We stock Discount Wheel Bearing OEM Parts
SKF
2005 Mazda 3 Wheel Bearing SKF

P311-45E78C4    W0133-1843290  New

Qty:
$86.35
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 01/01/2005-
  • Must be Installed in the Correct Orientation - Bearing has an Integrated Magnet for the ABS sensor - See Repair Manual for Proper Installation.
Brand: SKF
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle BrakeABS Prod. Date Range
2005 - Mazda 3 4-Wheel ABS Fr:01-01-05
SKF
2011 Mazda 3 Sport Wheel Bearing SKF

P311-45E78C4    W0133-1843290  New

Qty:
$86.35
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Must be Installed in the Correct Orientation - Bearing has an Integrated Magnet for the ABS sensor - See Repair Manual for Proper Installation.
Brand: SKF
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2011 - Mazda 3 Sport
SKF
1993 Mazda MX-3 Wheel Bearing SKF

P311-3E51265    W0133-1834391  New

Qty:
$71.21
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: SKF
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Mazda MX-3
SKF
2001 Ford Explorer Sport Wheel Bearing SKF

P311-0AB632C    W0133-1702503  New

Qty:
$15.37
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Bearing Only - Serviced with Wheel Race
  • Front - Inner
Brand: SKF
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type
2001 - Ford Explorer Sport RWD
SKF
1992 Lincoln Mark VII Wheel Bearing SKF

P311-0AB632C    W0133-1702503  New

Qty:
$15.37
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with Bearing only w/o Race
  • Bearing Only - Serviced with Wheel Race
  • Front - Inner
Brand: SKF
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1992 - Lincoln Mark VII
FAG
2019 Lincoln MKC Wheel Bearing FAG

P311-50EA053    W0133-1955419  New

Qty:
$124.85
  • Front
Brand: FAG
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2019 - Lincoln MKC
FAG
2004 Volkswagen Jetta Wheel Bearing FAG

P311-1B5C027    W0133-1625933  New

Qty:
$54.51
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: FAG
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2004 - Volkswagen Jetta GLI
Koyo
2005 Subaru Impreza Wheel Bearing Koyo

P311-14341B4    W0133-1653046  New

Qty:
$50.40
Koyo Wheel Bearing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Front
Brand: Koyo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2005 - Subaru Impreza Outback Sport
Koyo
1998 Subaru Forester Wheel Bearing Koyo

P311-14341B4    W0133-1653046  New

Qty:
$50.40
Koyo Wheel Bearing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 05/1997-
  • Front
Brand: Koyo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1998 - Subaru Forester Fr:05-00-97
Koyo
1993 Subaru Impreza Wheel Bearing Koyo

P311-14341B4    W0133-1653046  New

Qty:
$50.40
Koyo Wheel Bearing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 11/01/1992-
  • Front
Brand: Koyo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1993 - Subaru Impreza Fr:11-01-92
Koyo
2000 Subaru Outback Wheel Bearing Koyo

P311-14341B4    W0133-1653046  New

Qty:
$50.40
Koyo Wheel Bearing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 06/1999-
  • Front
Brand: Koyo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2000 - Subaru Outback Fr:06-00-99
Koyo
1999 Subaru Legacy Wheel Bearing Koyo

P311-14341B4    W0133-1653046  New

Qty:
$50.40
Koyo Wheel Bearing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -05/31/1999
  • Front
Brand: Koyo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1999 - Subaru Legacy To:05-31-99
Koyo
2001 Subaru Outback Wheel Bearing Koyo

P311-14341B4    W0133-1653046  New

Qty:
$50.40
Koyo Wheel Bearing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 09/2000-
  • Front
Brand: Koyo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Prod. Date Range
2001 - Subaru Outback VDC Fr:09-00-00
Koyo
2004 Subaru Forester Wheel Bearing Koyo

P311-57C90E2    W0133-1623456  New

Qty:
$63.44
Koyo Wheel Bearing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Subaru Technical Service Bulletin #03-50-02: The use of a special tool #J-45697 may be required during the installation of this tapered roller bearing to prevent damage. 38mm ID x 65mm OD
  • Rear
Brand: Koyo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2004 - Subaru Forester XS
Koyo
1998 Subaru Forester Wheel Bearing Koyo

P311-57C90E2    W0133-1623456  New

Qty:
$63.44
Koyo Wheel Bearing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 05/1997-, Subaru Technical Service Bulletin #03-50-02: The use of a special tool #J-45697 may be required during the installation of this tapered roller bearing to prevent damage. 38mm ID x 65mm OD
  • Rear
Brand: Koyo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1998 - Subaru Forester Fr:05-00-97
Koyo
2002 Subaru Forester Wheel Bearing Koyo

P311-57C90E2    W0133-1623456  New

Qty:
$63.44
Koyo Wheel Bearing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -02/2002, Subaru Technical Service Bulletin #03-50-02: The use of a special tool #J-45697 may be required during the installation of this tapered roller bearing to prevent damage. 38mm ID x 65mm OD
  • Rear
Brand: Koyo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2002 - Subaru Forester To:02-00-02
Koyo
2003 Subaru Forester Wheel Bearing Koyo

P311-57C90E2    W0133-1623456  New

Qty:
$63.44
Koyo Wheel Bearing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 03/2002-, Subaru Technical Service Bulletin #03-50-02: The use of a special tool #J-45697 may be required during the installation of this tapered roller bearing to prevent damage. 38mm ID x 65mm OD
  • Rear
Brand: Koyo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2003 - Subaru Forester Fr:03-00-02
Koyo
2005 Subaru Impreza Wheel Bearing Koyo

P311-57C90E2    W0133-1623456  New

Qty:
$63.44
Koyo Wheel Bearing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Subaru Technical Service Bulletin #03-50-02: The use of a special tool #J-45697 may be required during the installation of this tapered roller bearing to prevent damage. 38mm ID x 65mm OD
  • Rear
Brand: Koyo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2005 - Subaru Impreza Outback Sport
FAG
2013 BMW 135is Wheel Bearing FAG

P311-04BBD92    W0133-1975548  New

Qty:
$72.80
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Installation note: Bearing has a red seal side and a black seal side. Black seal should face inward towards center of the car.
Brand: FAG
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2013 - BMW 135is
SKF
2017 Jeep Compass Wheel Bearing SKF

P311-4C71ABF    W0133-1977411  New

Qty:
$138.81
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • The magnetic side of the bearing must be installed towards the ABS sensor. Improper orientation will cause an ABS to malfunction.
Brand: SKF
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2017 - Jeep Compass

Latest Wheel Bearing Repair and Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

wheel bearings cutlass ciera

Showing 3 out of 5 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From ecschame on wheel bearings cutlass ciera

are wheel bearings difficult to replace? how do you tell if they are bad or need to be packed?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Most are not "packable" but rather sealer and just replaced. The common symptom is a growl or feeling like one wheel is on rough road surface and the other's aren't. May make noise when load shifts as when turning louder or less.

What year and which end? Most GMs are straight forward replacements as a unit/hub assy,

T

Response From ecschame

My car is a 1992 cutlass ciera. The front left tire is making a high pitched screeching sound. If I apply the brakes or turn to the left, the screeching stops. Also, the hub is getting hot. Does this sound like a bearing issue?

Response From Tom Greenleaf


Brake pads worn! That's way too typical of that sensor touching the rotor. They are quiet when turning or braking at first. Sound is so annoying you'll get on the web for an answer - like fingernail on chaulkboard annoying.

It's on purpose so you'll get to it soon. This pic a just a typical sensor used on this pad but yours is similar. You may even see this thru the wheel depending on your wheels and the position.

The important thing is to check the brakes fully that both sides are wearing evenly. At the age I suggest replacing the calipers and flex hoses as those can be the cause of one side wearing faster than the other. If only one side is hot there's your clue that caliper and or flex hose is a problem.

Note: Flex hose can fail inside it, unseen to act as a check valve letting pressure in to apply brake but not release fully or at all sometimes. Same with caliper and hardware (pins) that can freeze up - rust and lack of lube left over time.

Are you doing this yourself? Either way if you put some PB (a penetrating solvent) on the spot right where brake line, flare nut, and metal end of the flex hose it may disconnect there for you or whoever does this work without more headaches.

Seriously - if one side is worn more than the other or just one gets warmer/hotter (that's left to right) then I'd toss all the parts mentioned, new pads of course and determine if rotors are needed or can be turned.

If you wish and have checked both sides you can while brake is intact, bend that tab away from rotor (if touching) and it will shut up as just the test that it's the only noise you are hearing. That's not a fix just a test.

I'm near certain this is what you'll find,

T

Response From ecschame Top Rated Answer

Thank you for the helpful info.

VW Golf Wheel Bearing

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From larry1845 on VW Golf Wheel Bearing

Got a 96 golf that I just got out of the shop.They aligned the front end and said everything looked good but said my left front wheel bearing was bad.It makes no noise at all while driving but there is a really loud noise when I back up.This is a standard shift car.I thought a wheel bearing would make noise all the time.Why id it only reaaly loud on the left side backing up

Response From Discretesignals

Why did they say it was bad? Did it have play in it when they were checking the wheel bearings?

Response From larry1845

No there was no play.It's my sons car.He put it in the ditch.We replaced the control arm that got bent and he couldn't keep tires on it.Got new tires and took it to the shop.They fixed the alignment so the tires aren't wearing now or squealing but when I picked it up they said the left wheel bearing was bad.Only makes noise backing up.And it is a loud noise.Just thought if it was a wheel bearing it would do it always.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Your right, that doesn't sound like something a noisy wheel bearing would do. A faulty wheel bearing usually makes a droning rumble noise that intensifies with speed. Sometimes the noise can change by swerving the vehicle to change the load on the bearing.

If it is making a loud noise only when your backing up, it is something other than a wheel bearing.

Without hearing the noise, can't give you an idea. Can say that most manual transmission vehicles will make a whirring whinning noise when backing up because reverse gear is spur cut.


Here is a video of someone driving around in reverse for some odd reason. The noise is normal. Does yours sound like that?


Is my wheel bearing going out? 2004 chev. cavalier

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Guest on Is my wheel bearing going out? 2004 chev. cavalier

this morning, I noticed a squeak like noise coming from the front drivers side tire. I was wondering if this is my wheel bearing or if something may just need oil. It stops squeaking when I put on the brake. Any ideas?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

No, that's not a wheel bearing. What you need is new front brakes. That is the warning sensor that your hearing.

wheel bearings dodge stratus

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From steele11861 on wheel bearings dodge stratus

can i change the front wheel bearing my self what is involved are they pressed on if so how do i take off and replace? thanks for any advice

Response From steele11861 Top Rated Answer

this car is 2001

Response From DanD

I believe the Stratus has a bolt on hub/wheel bearing assembly
You’ll have to remove the brake caliper & rotor, the axle nut in the center of the hub and then from the back of the spindle, remove the hub retaining bolts.
Sometimes the hub will seize in the spindle and it might take some persuasion with a hammer to get the hub out of the spindle.

Dan

Caliper fell off after wheel bearings repacked

Showing 2 out of 14 Posts | Show 12 Hidden Posts
Question From poolgirl61 on Caliper fell off after wheel bearings repacked

Hi, Yesterday mechanic repacked wheel bearings. Today I drove approx. 40 miles and the caliper fell off. First thing mechanic said was he didn't touch caliper. He said there are 4 bolts he undid 2 of them but not the 2 for caliper. I looked it up and u have to take off caliper to do wheel bearings. Now he wants me to pay to put new bolts on caliper. Help 2000 Ford Ranger

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

I assure you that he cannot repack the wheel bearing without removing the caliper. Tell him to consider himself very lucky that nobody got hurt from his tech's incompetence.

Response From poolgirl61

Thank You for your response

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I won't go look but are these bearings even serviceable as in "re-packable" anyway? Some still are and you must remove caliper at HT said on all.

Pilot error IMO too,

T

Response From DanD

Tom
If this is a RWD it'll have roller style bearings. If it's a 4WD it'll be a non serviceable hub assembly.
This guy needs to fess up and take responsibility for his or his tech's mistake.
And that's what this is, a mistake; no one in their right mind would purposely leave caliper bolts loose.


Dan.

Response From poolgirl61

Well here is the story, I am a single mom, who lost her job 7 weeks ago and still waiting for first unemployment check! Oh did I mention Christmas & kids. This mechanic is one of my best friends husbands! It started out my truck was smoking and smelt like oil. I took it to him. He said that the oil filter was tilted and oil was coming out and splattered the whole under side of my truck, which caused the smoke. He said I needed a new oil filter and oil sensor. An hour later he has the tires off and tells me I need my wheel bearings repacked. I was frantic and wasn't thinking. Now that I think of it this is probably something that could of waited until I got unemployment check. I thinking it wasn't urgent, so this now upsets me. After 40 miles of driving the truck clanked & clanked and wouldn't drive. I was stuck on side of rode. He came out first said I needed gear lube in the rear? He put that in & truck still wouldn't drive. He looked and said a bolt came out of caliper. He had to run to previous call so he called his friend out to help. Thats when his friend took off tire and caliper fell off no bolts. His friend said that something was stripped and that HIS friend didn't bother messing with the bolts? Now mechanic is mad at his friend and me . He won't take ownership and insist caliper has nothing to do with wheel bearings that I couldn't afford and could of waited.

Response From DanD

I think you need to sit down with everyone concerned and talk this out. I'm not taking any sides here it does sound fishy that he said he didn't remove calipers to repack bearings. But are you sure that is what he said he was going to do on the vehicle?
That's why I'm asking you to have a calm cool sit down and talk this out so that you can come to an understanding of what was done and then why this may have happened.
Misunderstanding and mistrust can cause all kinds of speculation.
What did that guy always say on that old TV show Dragnet. "just the facts mam, Just the facts" LOL

Dan.

Just to add maybe when you're having your talk; get on-line and show them this thread. Maybe if he replies we'll be able to understand what happened?

Response From poolgirl61

Dan I put the invitation out there for him to come to forum and reply

Response From Discretesignals

Here is the procedure for removing the rotor, so you can repack the wheel bearings and install a new grease seal.

Removal

1. Remove the front disc brake caliper anchor plate.
2. On 4x4 vehicles, remove the brake disc.
3. On 4x2 vehicles, remove the brake disc and hub as follows:
1 Remove the hub grease cap.
2 Remove the cotter pin.
3 Remove the nut retainer.
4 Remove the spindle nut.
5 Remove the front wheel outer bearing retainer washer.
6 Remove the outer front wheel bearing.
7 Remove the brake disc and hub.

4. If necessary on 4x2 vehicles, resurface the brake disc and hub using a hub-mounted brake lathe. Follow the lathe manufacturer's instructions.
1 Remove the wheel hub grease seal.
2 Remove the front wheel bearing.


Here is the brake caliper anchor plate or what is actually a caliper mounting bracket: The bracket bolts to the steering knuckle.
&imagekey=365340-0&width=450

Here is the caliper attached to the mounting bracket. The bracket along with the caliper has to be removed to be able to remove the rotor, so you can service the bearings.

&imagekey=1134466-0&width=450

Response From poolgirl61

Hi no I am positive that he said wheel bearings need to be repacked. I know he said caliper bolt missing and when other man came out to where I was broken down. He said friend or no friend he was not going to lie. He also said that bolts just don't come off calipers and especially 40 miles after wheel bearings repacked. I am also sure that the first thing mechanic said to me was I didn't touch caliper. He said there are 4 bolts. he took out 2 but didn't touch the 2 that were for caliper. Even with no one saying nothing I was going home and researching this. It isn't a coincident that wheel bearings repacked and 40 MILES later caliper has no bolts and comes off. He has never been own to ever to say he was wrong even with nothing to do with cars. POSITIVE what I heard

Response From DanD

I'm glad you know what you heard and are standing by that.
So if everything we have heard here is right; he was 100% in the wrong for not owning up to this.
The only thing I can suggest is to add some sugar to your water before the next time you talk to him; Not that you're wrong in being pissed at this guy; but you catch more flies with sugar then vinegar.
It's sad but if this guy gets his back up, you're SOL.

Dan.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Holy smokes 'poolgirl61' - This is like some scene out of "F-Troop" and not a comedy + NOT funny!

Trying to piece this together?? Your best friend's husband and a "cough" mechanic that works there?
*Tilted oil filter? If they say so!
*Of course caliper finally jammed up when all bolts fell out but what's with then messing with rear end gear oil?
* Yes bearings could have waited IMO to service. Repacking them doesn't fix them if bad just can prevent problems.

Yikes! This is so messed up I'm out of breath. Does anyone at this place know how to put this mess all back and right?

Good luck. Doesn't help much but Merry Christmas already and hope they'll take care of this for you.

Tom

Response From poolgirl61

You are right this is a mess. I had to pay someone else to take care of the caliper. The mechanic will not take responsibility for it. All he says is, "Do u think that I would put your truck back together without doing it correctly. Now I have lost my friend over this because she believes him.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Great to see you around Dan. Last similar I messed with was inner outer roller bearings with the tricky key to remove that was the lock for the nut to remove and back when bearings set. Pita design and older than this so would think they did away with that and it was 4X4. Either way caliper has to come off as we know,

Tom