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Best Selling Genuine Mazda Wheel Bearings

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including NSK, SKF, NTN, First Equipment Quality, Timken
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We stock Wheel Bearing parts for most Mazda models, including 3 Sport, B2200, B2300, B2600, B3000, CX7, CX9, MPV, MX5, MX6, Miata, Millenia, Protege, Protege5, RX7, RX8, Tribute, 3, 5, 6, 626.

NSK
1993 Mazda MX-3 Wheel Bearing NSK

P311-2306859    W0133-1834391  New

Qty:
$48.81
NSK Wheel Bearing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: NSK
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Mazda MX-3
SKF
1993 Mazda MX-3 Wheel Bearing SKF

P311-3E51265    W0133-1834391  New

Qty:
$71.19
SKF Wheel Bearing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: SKF
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Mazda MX-3
NTN
2013 Mazda 6 Wheel Bearing NTN

P311-04E47C9    W0133-2050425  New

Qty:
$103.21
NTN Wheel Bearing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: NTN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2013 - Mazda 6 i
NTN
2009 Mazda B4000 Wheel Bearing NTN

P311-3718007    W0133-1705129  New

Qty:
$37.40
NTN Wheel Bearing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: NTN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2009 - Mazda B4000 DS
SKF
2005 Mazda 3 Wheel Bearing SKF

P311-45E78C4    W0133-1843290  New

Qty:
$86.27
SKF Wheel Bearing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 01/01/2005-
  • Must be Installed in the Correct Orientation - Bearing has an Integrated Magnet for the ABS sensor - See Repair Manual for Proper Installation.
Brand: SKF
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle BrakeABS Prod. Date Range
2005 - Mazda 3 4-Wheel ABS Fr:01-01-05
NTN
2005 Mazda 3 Wheel Bearing NTN

P311-24A62C3    W0133-1843290  New

Qty:
$66.84
NTN Wheel Bearing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 01/01/2005-
  • Must be Installed in the Correct Orientation - Bearing has an Integrated Magnet for the ABS sensor - See Repair Manual for Proper Installation.
Brand: NTN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle BrakeABS Prod. Date Range
2005 - Mazda 3 4-Wheel ABS Fr:01-01-05
First Equipment Quality
2001 Mazda Tribute Wheel Bearing First Equipment Quality

P311-1813A8F    W0133-1627560  New

Qty:
$30.44
First Equipment Quality Wheel Bearing
  • Front
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Mazda Tribute
First Equipment Quality
2011 Mazda Tribute Wheel Bearing First Equipment Quality

P311-1813A8F    W0133-1627560  New

Qty:
$30.44
First Equipment Quality Wheel Bearing
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2011 - Mazda Tribute
Timken
1990 Mazda Protege Wheel Bearing - Front Timken

P311-04C50F3    510003  New

Qty:
$31.44
Timken Wheel Bearing  Front
  • Preset, Pre-Greased And Pre-Sealed Double Row Ball Bearing Assembly
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1990 - Mazda Protege AWD Front
Timken
2005 Mazda Miata Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-04C50F3    510003  New

Qty:
$31.44
Timken Wheel Bearing  Rear
  • Preset, Pre-Greased And Pre-Sealed Double Row Ball Bearing Assembly
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
2005 - Mazda Miata RWD Rear
Timken
2002 Mazda B3000 Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-2CD356A    5707  New

Qty:
$16.31
Timken Wheel Bearing  Rear
  • Cylindrical Roller Bearing
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
2002 - Mazda B3000 4WD Rear
Timken
2009 Mazda B4000 Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-48EB0E0    6408  New

Qty:
$17.02
Timken Wheel Bearing  Rear
  • Cylindrical Roller Bearing
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
2009 - Mazda B4000 4WD Rear
Timken
2006 Mazda MPV Wheel Bearing - Front Timken

P311-39F70F9    510010  New

Qty:
$42.16
Timken Wheel Bearing  Front
  • Preset, Pre-Greased And Pre-Sealed Double Row Ball Bearing Assembly
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
2006 - Mazda MPV FWD Front
Timken
1991 Mazda RX-7 Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-39F70F9    510010  New

Qty:
$42.16
Timken Wheel Bearing  Rear
  • Preset, Pre-Greased And Pre-Sealed Double Row Ball Bearing Assembly
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1991 - Mazda RX-7 RWD Rear
Timken
2012 Mazda CX-7 Wheel Bearing - Front Timken

P311-1D9A811    510063  New

Qty:
$39.72
Timken Wheel Bearing  Front
  • Preset, Pre-Greased And Pre-Sealed Double Row Ball Bearing Assembly
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
2012 - Mazda CX-7 AWD Front
Timken
2006 Mazda Tribute Wheel Bearing - Front Timken

P311-5DE21A3    510072  New

Qty:
$35.79
Timken Wheel Bearing  Front
  • Preset, Pre-Greased And Pre-Sealed Double Row Ball Bearing Assembly
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
2006 - Mazda Tribute AWD Front
Timken
1997 Mazda 626 Wheel Bearing - Front Timken

P311-39F70F9    510010  New

Qty:
$42.16
Timken Wheel Bearing  Front
  • Preset, Pre-Greased And Pre-Sealed Double Row Ball Bearing Assembly
  • 626
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1997 - Mazda 626 FWD Front
Timken
2011 Mazda Tribute Wheel Bearing - Front Timken

P311-5DE21A3    510072  New

Qty:
$35.79
Timken Wheel Bearing  Front
  • Preset, Pre-Greased And Pre-Sealed Double Row Ball Bearing Assembly
  • Optional
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
2011 - Mazda Tribute 4WD Front
NTN
2011 Mazda 3 Sport Wheel Bearing NTN

P311-24A62C3    W0133-1843290  New

Qty:
$66.84
NTN Wheel Bearing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: NTN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2011 - Mazda 3 Sport
SKF
2011 Mazda 3 Sport Wheel Bearing SKF

P311-45E78C4    W0133-1843290  New

Qty:
$86.27
SKF Wheel Bearing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Must be Installed in the Correct Orientation - Bearing has an Integrated Magnet for the ABS sensor - See Repair Manual for Proper Installation.
Brand: SKF
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2011 - Mazda 3 Sport

Latest Mazda Repair and Wheel Bearing Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Mazda Tribute Bearing

Showing 7 out of 7 Posts
Question From blazin407 on Mazda Tribute Bearing

hello i have a 2002 Mazda Tribute and as off Today am Replaceing The 3 Wheel Bearing in 2 years on The drivers Front i was just wondering if anybody knows something i don't about these bearing or something the is being done wrong? ... I sent all of them to a machine shop to be pressed in but they just keep going bad.. become very loud over time


Thanks

Response From Hammer Time

You probably have something bent in the suspension.

Response From blazin407

I have checked all suspension parts including the control arm with the measuring tape seems to be ok

Response From Hammer Time

I'm afraid the measuring tape isn't going to cut it.

Response From blazin407

whats the best way to check?

Response From Hammer Time

Calibrated wheel alignment and collision measuring equipment.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

All of the above true: Some of these are pressed in bearings and if cheapo ones wont last or if done wrong. Still have to tend to them for whatever reason,

T

05' Mazda3 GX - Squeeling Noises from front of car

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From carwoes on 05' Mazda3 GX - Squeeling Noises from front of car

Purchased my Mazda3 in August of '05. Started with a clicking noise in from the front of the car - brought it in and they said it was a bolt that needed to be repaired. Repair done. Months later now there is a squeeling noise from the front tires only when I accelerate. Last time I brought it in to the dealer ONTARIO MAZDA (401/Dixie) they claim they don't hear anything - Am I the crazy one? Can anyone suggest what this noise may be and a better Mazda Dealership which actually cares about my concerns?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

It's probably a CV joint or wheel bearing and if it won't replicate the problem in front of mechanics it's left to guessing. Keep notes on when and where as it can and will be fixed, T

Response From carwoes

More info on my car...
It's a squeeling noise only when I accelerate and now I'm noticing that there is almost a screaching noise when I turn my wheels to the right. It's going in for service tomorrow morning so we'll see what happens.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Belt tension, pulley prob, auto tentioner or bad belt -- don't understand the right only thing?? T

1990 mazda miata

Showing 3 out of 20 Posts | Show 17 Hidden Posts
Question From doanuts on 1990 mazda miata

I need help. My 1990 mazda miata check engine light comes on while driving then when i let off the gas it goes away

Response From Sidom

Have codes read & come back & post the numbers.....Most parts stores will do this for free

Response From doanuts

The engine light doesnt stay on will it still show a code if the lights not on? It only comes on while driving. But i let off on the gas pedal and the engine light turns off. This happens time to time and sometimes multiple times while driving. Iv never owned a miata and jus bought this one a couple days ago. The speedo says 390,xxxmiles but the engine dont look like thats on it or even the car itself

Response From Hammer Time

Yes, the code should be stored in memory but you may have to pay a shop to do that one since it's OBD1.

Response From doanuts

Ok sweet thanks ill get back with the codes if they dont kno what it is.. do you know what the ticking noise in the top end might be? It isnt always there is comes and goes too

Response From Hammer Time

You'll have to make it louder. I can't hear it.

Response From Discretesignals

That one you can retrieve trouble codes without a scan tool. There is a diagnostic connector under the hood. Jumper TEN and GND together in the terminal and turn the ignition on. The check engine light will flash the code(s) in two digit format.



Ticking noise could be from the valve train. The hydraulic lash adjusters (HLA) are supposed to take up the play in the valve train as things wear. With the mileage the valve train is probably worn out or you could have HLA problems. Change the oil and make sure you use the correct viscosity (10W-30) to see if that helps.

Response From Discretesignals

Code 12 means the engine computer detected an open or short in the throttle position sensor circuit.

This means you need to monitor the throttle position sensor voltage to see if you have a defective TPS, a wiring problem, or a computer issue.

To check the throttle position sensor, you need to use a volt/ohm meter.

This video goes over TPS diagnosing. The TPS operation is the same on most vehicles.


Response From doanuts

I wud like to know if fuel injector number four, cracked and flooding piston four, would also make piston number 2 not work

Response From Discretesignals

You have too many threads open on this vehicle for the same problem. We are telling you what to test and your not giving us any feedback. With the other threads, your making it confusing and leaving other hanging in the wind. Please keep it in the same thread.

Link to another open thread:

http://autoforums.carjunky.com/Automotive_Repair_C1/Engine_Troubles_F16/Re%3A_1990_mazda_miata_P104227/gforum.cgi?do=post_unstick;redo=post_view_flat;so=ASC;sb=post_latest_reply;root_id=104035;post=104035;t=search_engine

Response From doanuts

Sorry m jus getting use to this site and m kida comfused myself.. i dont have access to an ohmeter can u use one in autozone? Sorry fer the comfusion i jus bought this car m jus tryn ta figure out what is goi. O. With it. And need to learn this site better. Thank you for your help if u have an answer to the last question ill only post on this one link. Can u delete one after youve posted it?

Response From Discretesignals

Is that what happened? You have a leaking injector on #4? Did you see if the regulator is leaking?

Is #2 cylinder flooded also?

Response From doanuts

I did test with tube from intake manifold off nothing squirted anywher from the regulator. Yes i pulled all plugs and plug 2and 4 wer wet with gas the others were dry. When i pulled all the injectors out the one for piston/plug 4 was cracked on the end. Injector 2 had a scratch idk if its a crack. So 2/4 are getting flooded 1/3 are fine and still igniting. I checked for spark from the coil pack and it was good.

Response From Discretesignals

I don't think that a cracked injector in #4 would flood out #2, so it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to replace them both.

In fact, if you have the money, it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to replace all four injectors just in case #1 & 3 let loose later.

If the injectors were leaking fuel into the cylinders, its possible that those two cylinder could be washed out. That means they may have no compression, so you'll have to squirt a little bit of oil in those cylinders to get the compression to come back up while cranking the engine with the plugs removed, all injector connectors unplugged, and coil unplugged.

You don't want gas or spark going on while your trying to restore compression while cranking the engine.

Response From doanuts

Yes hopefully this is the only problem i had ordered some racing injectors all four

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Shane: I suggest staying OE for replacement parts or could confuse the fix - not certain but may open Pandora's box requiring other alterations to accommodate doing that. Yes it's now an old car but not old enough IMO to fool with things aftermarket, performance or other things,

T

Response From doanuts

Hey guys i have two questions..1 is when i put cold air intake what happens with the mas air flow sensor plug thats pluged into the stock intake box? What do i do with it and with it not pluged in what will it do?.....2nd i need new wheel bearings in front my car is the 1990 base model, does it have ABS? the bearings i found come together with lugnut bolt hub assembly i need to know wether my car has abs or not....thank you!!

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

You need the MAF sensor, the engine won't right without it....If that kit is for that model, there should be a way to mount it in to your new system. That part can't be eliminated.

For your wheel bearing, just look at the dash. There should be an ABS light that comes on for a few seconds & then goes out when the car is started..... Or you could just look at the hub assembly, see it there is a sensor with a wire going to it, also there should be an tone ring on the axle....

If you have any issues with the bearing start a new thread......

So what was the final outcome with the running problem??? Did you get it fixed??? What did you do???

Response From doanuts

Thank you. Ther was a cracked fuel injector and the wire harness for the fuel injectors was bad. As for the white smoke i had changed the oil and put the 5 litter oil change jug into the engine when the engine only takes 3.2 litters off oil. Changed oil again runs great. Still havent figured out the check engine. It blinks once then twice im taking that as a 12 but anywhere i go they cant figure out what it is.

Response From doanuts

I did the thkng and it blinked once then twiceso m guessin thats a 12 and the book at auto zone said it doesnt apply to my car

whining/hunning noise

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From chandler on whining/hunning noise

I have a Mazda Cx7 AWD 2008 with 70k miles. It's making a humming noise starting at about 20 to 30 mph, and gets louder and higher pitched
with increased speed. Puting the car in nutral does has no effect, same noise, same level. Sounds like it's comming from the rear of the vehical.
Seems to be getting gradually louder, although I may just be paying more attention to it. Any ideas would be helpful Thank you.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Anything that rotates with speed of the vehicle but high on list would be a wheel bearing. Those usually will be louder or quieter with shift of weight like turns at a speed when you hear it. Can try rotating tires and see if noise follows them or stays the same to rule in or out tires,

T

Response From chandler Top Rated Answer

Thanks T,
Tried the side load / turning at speed, no difference. I've had wheel bearings go bad before and it doesn't sound like that to me.
More of a growl I think. Almost sounds natural, like a gear box or maybe a differential, just to loud. Maybe something to do with
the AWD? Traction control on or off makes no difference either. I'm not too familiar with the AWD on the Mazda, as it is my wife's car.
Thanks again, Steve

Response From Tom Greenleaf

First post said to me that load from the engine didn't alter the noise so I'm not thinking gear noises just yet. AWD or NO wheel drive () the only thing that touches the road is the tires and can wear to make noises and noises can travel making you think it's from one place but source is another. Tricky stuff without witnessing it.

Just carefully look at the tread on the tires. Leading edge of the slots of the treads will wear more than the trailing making a saw tooth kind of pattern on quite a few especially ones not rotated as per schedule listed for the specific car. Some tires just are more prone that others too. If so you can just feel that with your hands. Some can be so far worn into that pattern they really wont recover. If your tires/wheels allow cross rotation and have that they will sound worse and might correct over some time and miles. Repeat 'Might.)

Pay attention as noises are warnings. I'd at least try to rule out tire issues as my experience those can make a speed related noise without much load of weight shifting or acceleration/deceleration forces changing the noise. I really would want to rule that out before blaming gears and gearcase bearing at this point. Lots going on in AWD to differentiate all wheels but gut feeling doubts that so far. If wheels are off certainly check out brakes but "humming" or whining isn't so high on my list for brake issues,

T

Response From chandler

Thank you again T, just rung a bell with me, the only thing I've done recently IS add air to the tires. Will definitely check that, I thought they were a little low.
Hope so, much better that a major drive train issue.
Thank you very much,


Steve

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Anyone should pay attention to tire pressures. 4X4 regular, FWD regular, AWD sure seem to really want even pressures as manuals suggest and very regular tire rotations. Anything more than 2WD ordinary is really trying to differentiate for arcs of turns, plain turning and harder on tires in about all cases and when safe but 1/2 (example) worn some you can't just buy one or two but need them all! Suppose you could but it's asking too much as 99.? % the car is going straight ahead and all the gizmos aren't doing much that allow non scuffing turning or different wheel speeds for even ABS and so on.

Not to beat that up too much but in a 3 Million buck Bugatti Veyron or a Tata Nano the only things touching the road are the dang TIRES unless you can drive airborne all the time- Hmmm?

T