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Best Selling Genuine Lincoln Wheel Bearings

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including SKF, FAG, Beck Arnley, Timken
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Lincoln Replacement Wheel Bearing Parts

We stock Wheel Bearing parts for most Lincoln models, including LS, MKC, MKX, MKZ, Mark LT, Navigator, Town Car.

SKF
2005 Lincoln Aviator Wheel Bearing SKF

P311-4DABED1    W0133-1849428  New

Qty:
$86.15
SKF Wheel Bearing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: SKF
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - Lincoln Aviator
FAG
2018 Lincoln MKC Wheel Bearing FAG

P311-50EA053    W0133-1955419  New

Qty:
$125.44
FAG Wheel Bearing
Brand: FAG
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2018 - Lincoln MKC
SKF
1984 Lincoln Mark VII Wheel Bearing 8 Cyl 5.0L SKF

P311-0AB632C    W0133-1702503  New

Qty:
$15.35
SKF Wheel Bearing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with Bearing only w/o Race
  • Bearing Only - Serviced with Wheel Race
  • Front - Inner
Brand: SKF
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1984 - Lincoln Mark VII V 8 Cyl 5.0L 302 -
Beck Arnley
1991 Lincoln Town Car Wheel Bearing - Front Inner Beck Arnley

P311-16A1B0D    051-3869  New

Qty:
$11.44
Beck Arnley Wheel Bearing  Front Inner
  • BEARINGS
  • Beck/Arnley parts meet foreign nameplate OE specifications for form, fit and function. Our product specialists work with a network of global sourcing partners so you can install the right part with confidence.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 4
    • Most jobs typically require 4 of this item.
Brand: Beck Arnley
Position: Front Inner
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1991 - Lincoln Town Car Front Inner
Beck Arnley
2006 Lincoln Zephyr Wheel Bearing - Front 6 Cyl 3.0L Beck Arnley

P311-03C68E1    051-3944  New

Qty:
$51.79
Beck Arnley Wheel Bearing  Front
  • BEARINGS
  • Beck/Arnley parts meet foreign nameplate OE specifications for form, fit and function. Our product specialists work with a network of global sourcing partners so you can install the right part with confidence.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Beck Arnley
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Lincoln Zephyr Front V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2968
Beck Arnley
1969 Lincoln Continental Wheel Bearing - Front Inner Beck Arnley

P311-0AD3C20    051-2618  New

Qty:
$13.48
Beck Arnley Wheel Bearing  Front Inner
  • BEARINGS
  • Beck/Arnley parts meet foreign nameplate OE specifications for form, fit and function. Our product specialists work with a network of global sourcing partners so you can install the right part with confidence.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Beck Arnley
Position: Front Inner
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1969 - Lincoln Continental Front Inner
Timken
1992 Lincoln Town Car Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-2CD356A    5707  New

Qty:
$16.31
Timken Wheel Bearing  Rear
  • Cylindrical Roller Bearing
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Drive Type Position
1992 - Lincoln Town Car Sedan RWD Rear
Timken
2000 Lincoln Town Car Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-48EB0E0    6408  New

Qty:
$17.02
Timken Wheel Bearing  Rear
  • Cylindrical Roller Bearing
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Drive Type Position
2000 - Lincoln Town Car Limousine RWD Rear
Timken
1960 Lincoln Continental Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-5062DEE    514003  New

Qty:
$28.14
Timken Wheel Bearing  Rear
  • Preset, Pre-Greased And Pre-Sealed Single Row Ball Bearing Assembly
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1960 - Lincoln Continental RWD Rear
Timken
2012 Lincoln MKZ Wheel Bearing - Front Timken

P311-39F70F9    510010  New

Qty:
$42.16
Timken Wheel Bearing  Front
  • Preset, Pre-Greased And Pre-Sealed Double Row Ball Bearing Assembly
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
2012 - Lincoln MKZ AWD Front
Timken
2012 Lincoln MKZ Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-39F70F9    510010  New

Qty:
$42.16
Timken Wheel Bearing  Rear
  • Preset, Pre-Greased And Pre-Sealed Double Row Ball Bearing Assembly
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
2012 - Lincoln MKZ AWD Rear
Timken
1980 Lincoln Versailles Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-5062DEE    514003  New

Qty:
$28.14
Timken Wheel Bearing  Rear
  • Preset, Pre-Greased And Pre-Sealed Single Row Ball Bearing Assembly
  • 9 in. Ring Gear
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1980 - Lincoln Versailles RWD Rear
Timken
1972 Lincoln Mark IV Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-35633D5    RW207CCRA  New

Qty:
$22.82
Timken Wheel Bearing  Rear
  • Conrad Deep Groove Single Row Radial Ball Bearing for Wheel Bearing Application
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1972 - Lincoln Mark IV RWD Rear
Timken
2006 Lincoln LS Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-51A64D8    511032  New

Qty:
$33.73
Timken Wheel Bearing  Rear
  • Preset, Pre-Greased And Pre-Sealed Double Row Ball Bearing Assembly
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
2006 - Lincoln LS RWD Rear
Timken
2015 Lincoln MKX Wheel Bearing - Front Timken

P311-1D9A811    510063  New

Qty:
$39.72
Timken Wheel Bearing  Front
  • Preset, Pre-Greased And Pre-Sealed Double Row Ball Bearing Assembly
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
2015 - Lincoln MKX AWD Front
Timken
2005 Lincoln Aviator Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-55B4753    516008  New

Qty:
$65.03
Timken Wheel Bearing  Rear
  • Preset, Pre-Greased And Pre-Sealed Double Row Ball Bearing Assembly
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
2005 - Lincoln Aviator AWD Rear
Timken
2002 Lincoln Navigator Wheel Bearing - Front Inner Timken

P311-551EDF6    JL69349P  New

Qty:
$15.87
Timken Wheel Bearing  Front Inner
  • Tapered Roller Bearing Cone
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Front Inner
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
2002 - Lincoln Navigator RWD Front Inner
Timken
2008 Lincoln Mark LT Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-08CD25C    R1561TV  New

Qty:
$44.94
Timken Wheel Bearing  Rear
  • Cylindrical Roller Bearing
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
2008 - Lincoln Mark LT 4WD Rear
Timken
2005 Lincoln Navigator Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-0B646AC    FC66998  New

Qty:
$9.94
Timken Wheel Bearing  Rear
  • Caged Needle Bearing
  • Independant Rear Suspension
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
2005 - Lincoln Navigator 4WD Rear
Timken
2001 Lincoln Navigator Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-08CD25C    R1561TV  New

Qty:
$44.94
Timken Wheel Bearing  Rear
  • Cylindrical Roller Bearing
  • Non Independant Rear Suspension
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
2001 - Lincoln Navigator 4WD Rear

Latest Lincoln Repair and Wheel Bearing Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Need diagnosis help! 2000 Lincoln LS

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From joejoetatoe87 on Need diagnosis help! 2000 Lincoln LS

Hello all, I'm looking for some information on some repairs I need to get done on my 2000 Lincoln LS 3.0l. It has 145,000 miles on it. I came here because I'm looking for advice on what needs repaired, because I've taken it to two different shops, and they both have different things that need done. The car drives fine going in a staight line, but when you turn the steering wheel left or right, even slightly, (only when car is moving) it make this grinding noise. It kind of sounds like to me that the tires, or something in the rear is rubbing together, its not like a metal grinding, more like plastic rubber grind if that makes sense. Even though it makes that noise, it doesnt really affect how the car handles turns, I can feel it a little in the steering wheel but not much. Also at about 50mph and above, when I turn the wheel I can feel the rear end of the car want to sway back and forth, and also the noise it makes is louder at higher speeds. Any advice or ideas would be appreciated. Thank you.

One more thing, which isnt too important to me. Is the check engine light is on, I have a code scanner, and the code is for a EGR vavle malfunction. But I never have once noticed any rough idle or anything. Should I be concerned?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

On the check engine light problem, you need to start a new question for that and be sure to post the exact code number.

As far as your noise is concerned, it's about impossible to diagnose a noise without hearing it. It could be as simple as a backing plate too close to the rotor and making contact or possibly a bad wheel bearing.

How to turn rotors on a '99 Town Car?

Showing 3 out of 11 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From Ragnorok on How to turn rotors on a '99 Town Car?

- 'Lo all. I have a 1999 Lincoln Town Car that I'm putting front brakes on. This isn't so hard, in and of itself, but I'd also like to turn the rotors because I have some uneven braking that's typical of mild rotor warpage.
- The problem is, the hub cover has this rubber seal on it, and that seal says "permanent sealed bearing - do not remove". I'm curious how one is supposed to turn the rotors on this vehicle if they can't be taken off? If they can be taken off, I'd like some insight into how that's done without damaging anything.
- I did pull back about 10mm of the rubber seal, unfortunately prior to reading the warning. (wry grin) Some gentle prodding didn't even budge the hub cover, which normally doesn't take a lot of effort to remove. Once I saw the warning, however, I stopped cold and came to the web to see what I could see. (grin)
- Thanks for your time...

Rags

Response From Tom Greenleaf

With caliper and the bracket removed the rotor just falls off! It may be stuck from rust and DON'T bother turning it as they don't cost that much for a good new one. None come with tons of extra metal anymore and they just warp from heat when thinner. Clean and lube where the rotor contacts hub/bearing as if it's crusty it will behave like a warped rotor. A rubber hammer should do to loosen it up and then gasket scrapers for any rust. Good luck,

Response From Ragnorok

- Odd. Typically the rotor is held on by a really big nut secured by a cotter pin, which is under the hub cover, the that says it's a permanent sealed bearing in this instance. Naturally the bearings are in there, too! (grin)
- If there is no such nut on this Town Car, what keeps it together? The caliper can't be holding it on there. Mere friction doesn't seem like it should suffice to hold a front wheel on (naturally the studs are in the rotor and hold the wheel) during normal driving conditions.
- I'm not telling you you're wrong, Tom, and I greatly appreciate your response. I've been working on cars for about twenty-five years, and I've never heard of a front rotor (coasting wheel on this rear-wheel drive car) that's not held on a by a nut/cotter pin.
- So before I just start whacking on it with a rubber hammer, I'd feel better with some explaination of this arrangement. Be as technical as you like ... I've a fair bit of automotive experience, and I'm a software engineer to boot, so I don't believe in "too much information". (wink) Links and/or diagrams would be a real bonus. Or maybe I should just see if Chilton has a manual for this car? (snicker)
- Thanks for your time!...

Rags

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

I don't have much time right now but know that the front wheel bearing is a barrel and sealed unit and the rotor comes off like a brake drum would. Bearing is NOT serviceabe or adjustable. Easy to replace with air tools if needed. They use thread lock on the orig caliper bracket which must be removed to get rotor off.

Again - don't waste your time turning a rotor on this. New ones are too cheap to bother. That's your call.

Hit me at base address if needed, I need to get off this computer right now, Good luck,

Response From DanD

Good one Tom and you say you're out of the trade, maybe in body but you still know your stuff.
Dan.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Dan - thanks for the kind words!! I do what I can. Love your flag on your posts! Be well and love reading your posts, Tom

Response From johnwagnerjr

Tom - I've got a '91 Town Car and I want to replace the front brake pads and rotors. You mentioned that the '99 Town Car rotors just falls off when the caliper and braket are removed. Is this the same on my '91?

Thanks, John

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Not sure but 1991 should be the old style. Just two 11/16th bolts and regular wheel bearings. That was a change year for Lincoln so I'm not sure. A quick look will tell.

FYI - I've had great luck with disc pads called "Porcelain" for being real quiet. Just a tad more money for less problems. With a 1991 take a good look at the flex hoses and calipers and consider bleeding them out with good new brake fluid, good luck,

Response From johnwagnerjr

Thanks for the insight and the advice on pads. I've never done brakes before so this should be fun.

--John

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You are scaring me!! If you've never done brakes before go one at a time. Parts are asymetrically opposite so you have a reference. Make sure that the caliper hose is in proper position and DON'T let it hang by it while working.

Take most brake fluid out of master cylinder with a new clean turkey baster an mark it for cars only!! - or throw it out!! Hit me at home base if you have troubles or questions - I'm at this silly computer way too much so I'll catch it. Never re use brake fluid. There's a spot for private messages here if you want to leave a phone # or get mine. Take your time, it'll work just fine, Tom

Response From Ragnorok

- Gosh I am SUCH a retard!! Of course that's how it is!! The rotor is held on by pressure on the studs, when the wheel is on there, and it's the HUB that's held on by the bolt!! (smacks forhead)
- Since I can turn them for $15 for the pair, I don't think I can replace them for that price. I'm sure they'll just warp again (they did the first time), but at least I'll have smooth braking for while. (wink) I'll see about replacing them next pad set ... I'm not one to turn rotors a second time regardless.
- Thanks a million for your patience, Tom. I sure feel like a n00b...

Rags

2001 Lesabre Limited piching sideways on bumps

Showing 3 out of 16 Posts | Show 13 Hidden Posts
Question From mugwump77 on 2001 Lesabre Limited piching sideways on bumps

2001 Buick Lesabre Limited, 65,000 miles, driven by old lady (really!), air shocks, no damage, nothing Loose. Problem: When hitting a bump or pothole, rear and pitches sharply sideways. Had it up on hoist, nothing loose or damaged. Wheel bearings tight. Front end seems to be aligned OK, steering wheel is centered, car does not pull to the side. When rear end bounced manually, both sides seem to bounce equally and level but when hitting a pothole or bump, rear end pitches sideways...enough to be dangerous, especially on slick roads. Kelly tires. Any ideas? Thanks, Muggs

Response From huxley

Hey Muggs,

Not sure if this will be helpful at all...but I have noticed this to a degree with the exact same model that my girlfriend has which I drive somewhat often. It doesn't seem as sharp as you're pointing out here, but it definitely happens. Something with the design perhaps? I'd be interested to know what the issue is if you figure it out.

-Nate

Response From Guest

Thanks, Nate, that's what I think too......its a design problem. Nothing to do but put up with it. Our main car is a Toyota. Its as as sure-footed as a mountain goat so this Buick is an annoyance. Thanks again, Muggs

Response From huxley

Haha yeah...it's a smooth ride but when you're driving a car that felt like it was meant to be a boat, this will happen I suppose. I often feel like it should have a rudder instead of a steering wheel.

-Nate

Response From mugwump77

The problem is solved. The rear shocks seemed to be OK but I replaced them anyway. That seemed to have solved the problem of pitching sidewise on bumps. M

Response From Tom Greenleaf


Nate! The one up close is a boat. A 2001 LeSabre is an economy car! I owned a couple of those suckers and three people could stand thru the sun roof! You could move a twin bed made up in the back seat and close the trunk lid on a small car as a spare. Never mind a rudder you needed tug boats to park those suckers but boy were they fun!

T

Response From Double J Top Rated Answer

Hey Tom

Driven many of those...
MAN..those were nice riding cars...especially that "Monster" in the front..
It appeared to just float down the street...
Remember the rubber insulation on all the coil springs...
A buddy of mine had the exact one pictured....used to let me drive it for weeks at a time..
He had several cars...What a great car!!!!
They don't make 'em like that anymore...
Probably one of the few Ford/Lincoln products I liked working on...."Remember the test drive made it all worth it"..When the job itself was rough....
Thanks for the trip down memory lane...

JIm

Response From Tom Greenleaf


Jim - had a couple 73 Caddy Land Yachts too. Not the Eldo but two of the one on the left. Dang hood alone weighed more than some wicked small cars of today by itself! Of course you needed to friends with an OPEC country to drive those too

Just fun,

T

Response From Double J

With all due respect Tom/Lincoln guys...

NOW YOUR TALKING....CADILLAC...BABY....

Yea ..MAN, those hoods were heavy...remember when you had to take one off to do engine work...
Definitely needed some helpers..
Owned quite a few land yachts myself..
Remember under the hood of those Eldos...more room than some studio apartments...LOL
Those were the days...and Gm/Ford wonders why they cant sell cars today

Response From dave284

Sorry to but in guys....just wondering if these cars can be converted to fuel injection....I owned a few bigems myself, back then gas was .40 a gal.........

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Dave: The Caddies used a lot of monster 472 aka "the 501" engines with quadrajets. Fuel injection was in some rare models - they didn't do any better on gas just took out the hassle or the shamless indignity of having to pump the gas pedal once it they would never start.

The 60s had the same monsters that were as big but didn't look so big in the crowd. They also got tons better fuel mileage in the 60 than the 73 (detuned for emissions) cars. Had a 67 and a 68 Caddy that would do close to 20 + without trouble on trips - nothing around town. Those engines had so much power you barely touched the gas to maintain hwy speeds. Some used VR (variable rate) torque converters which was and felt like limitless ratios for power and close to lock up without load!

Today: The best anti-theft control ever is let a theif try to steal a car with a carb - will screw them up every time if they never drove one and don't recall the days

T

Response From Double J

.40 cents a gallon...MAN your young....
I remember it much cheaper than that.
I remember the gas price wars between local gas stations vying for business, gas in the teens,YES teens and they even had give aways like S & H green stamps, dishes,glasses,mugs...etc...
Those were the days....the oil companies have forgotten what made them and what customer service once was..

How 'bout it old timers.....

Response From Tom Greenleaf


I recall the "gas wars" in town (1960s) one station against the other - 17.9cents (they always wanted that .9 cent) - always something free with a fill up too. Was working at Mobil when gas first crossed the one dollar line and we had to post the real price on a card but didn't have the spot for a whole dollar and the pumps couldn't be adjusted so we had to just set them for half and double the charge till new pumps were installed.

Regualar gas was 93 octane and high test was 98 or better! Sunoco used to sell 105 octane. Now we think 92 is the "super" gasoline! "Unleaded was called "white gas" or "marine" gas that only Amoco sold here for Winter storage or gasoline heaters. Lead (tetraethyl) in gas would congeal pretty quickly and make a jelly at the top of a gas can if left too long!

Also - "self serve" WHAT WAS THAT?? ------- And find where the gas cap was on all those cars - some hidden behind tail lights on the fins!

T

Response From Double J

Yes..I remember it being as low as 15.9 cents per gallon in the sixties as well...."Fill 'er up with ethyl"
And for that price,you got the windows (all) cleaned,including h/lights,fluids checked,tires checked,(air was free) everything under the hood checked,and and and you got to use the "clean" washroom....try even finding a washroon at a gas station today...
Standard Oil slogan.."As you travel ,ask us".......I dare you,ask them today...LOL....
Remember working at the stations during the supposed "gas shortage" in the early seventies...
Gas shot up to .40.9 cents a gal.....we had to allocate what people could purchase..some days 10 gallons,some days $5.00...
People were livid with us..$4.10 for 10 gallons...highway robbery...
We had lines more than a mile waiting...problem was...when we met the quota for the day,we had to cut them off....(were allowed only so many gallons for the month)had to cut off to stretch it to stay open all month...
Poor people had waited hours and got cut off....if the tires didn't make it onto the driveway...last car on...next one ..cut off.
We had guns pulled on us,threatened with physical violence...actual fist fights..got to the point ,we had to have the police there at cut off time...
I was the only one who had a full tank thru all that...LOL...locking gas caps became a big thing then..folks were stealing gas big time..
Yea Tom..at $1.00..remember people said thats it,they were going to stop driving...LOL
Remember before SElf serve...the "mini serve attempt...we pumped the gas but nothing else...little cheaper...
Those were the days...

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Let's start a new thread - I'll call it "Gas Station Memories" in the "open posting" spot. Let's see if we can dig up some neat old pics - the cars, gas wars, gasoline brand name changes, marketing - fun stuff.....

T

Response From Guest

WOW Tom...I can't believe the size of those cars...I thought crown vics were big. I wish I lived in a different climate, I'd just stick to my damn motorcycles (no offense to you fine car folks) and just have a beater pick up truck to haul crap around in.

And maybe I'd buy a kayak/corolla too : )

1982 Ford Granada 3.3L A few million miles?

Showing 2 out of 9 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From irishmantx on 1982 Ford Granada 3.3L A few million miles?

Dear Group,

1982 Ford Granada 3.3L engine. Oily soot found coming out of the tail pipe, and
uses oil more often than used to. (long skid mark / sooty oil stain) from the
exhaust pipe. Original engine since 1982, possibly warning sign engine might
go? It's used heavily and takes me to work back and forth serving as the only
family 'back up' car. (odometer has rolled a few times since original 25,000 miles
back in 1984.)

Is this a sign of bad times for this engine? This particular engine was assembled
in Canada, smooth good solid running engine. If possible, I rather go with a good
long block.

Things done to this car.

Replaced battery, MT-56 Interstate. Replaced Alternator, Water pump (at same time)
radiator hoses, belts, rear brakes (L/R), front disk brake line hose (L/R), coil springs
(x4 w/air conditioner), rear shocks, front struts, thermostat replaced, carb replaced,
front weather strip (L/R) replaced, ignition module, voltage regulator, negative battery
cable electrically taped black since it was originally 'red' possibly mistake of positive cable.
Wheel bearings serviced, rack and pinion steering unit replaced, and head lamps replaced.

Oily sooty exhaust noticeable after idle and running the engine, leaving approx 1 to 2 foot
long 'skid mark' or 'skid stain' on ground / floor of garage. Uses oil more frequently as it
takes a quart every week or after heavy use. Possible warning sign of engine failure?

Shalom,

irishmantx
76531




Response From Tom Greenleaf

? Some confusion with just what this engine is. Is this the 200 CID straight six with one bbl carb? I just looked up a valve cover gasket with mixed info. 3.3 should = 200 CID inch and gasket like this.................

/


With the miles it's hard to say as so many things are possible. Any blue smoke? If any smoke out tailpipe what color? Does this oily soot run out tailpipe leaving a streaked mix of part burned oil and gas - did I understand that properly?

Is is running well now despite the mess it makes? What's taxing my mind is IF it runs on all six cyl. and doesn't smoke than a fair amount of raw fuel or oil is getting in the exhaust. Using some oil at VERY high miles isn't totally amazing nor means there isn't more left to go.

Lots to think about with this. Some engines will put out a trail a water from condensation in the cold exhaust but mostly when colder, humid air and would be dirty but would quit it when warmed up.

Could be sludge if any now not be allowing oil return to pan and valve guides are sucking down oil way too fast but if running well that would smoke and make a scene. You can get a good idea sometimes about sludge just looking in oil fill cap or take valve cover off for a real good look.

IMO if engine has to go the head need be in same condition or reworked. I didn't find reman whole engine available but they should be but not common parts houses. Used at the age would be rare to find a known good whole engine but if diagnosis shows this one is that worn I'd ask a reputable salvage yard for exact fit replacement.

It probably is worth paying for a professional diagnosis, compression and other observations to declare engine's needs.

Sorry for the long response - this has so many possibilities by age and miles it's an open book without some serious diagnostics,

Tom

Response From irishmantx

Dear Tom,

That looks about right!! Some blue smoke does puff out... To be honest, it runs 'OK' BUT....
Since the engine is original, and it takes more oil than normal, leaving a 1 to 2 foot stain of
streaking oil / exhaust soot, I surmise this engine is tired.

I rather get total complete long block with a warranty. I could get her over to a shop for
a full compression and engine diagnostic. At least see where I stand on the shape of this
engine. Or g-d forbid, engine goes, then get her towed. I told my dad (who owns the car)
about this.

One bit of good news, I got the new computer box w/chip back into my 1988 GMC S15
and it 'appears' to run smoothly. Got to test a few more times at certain times the truck
acts up and breaks down. :P So far so good. I hope, fingers crossed.. toes crossed, knocking
on all kinds of wood. lol

Well, I thought it could be something serious about the oily sooty exhaust. I never see this
car act that way. It runs a bit louder, takes more oil than normal, and now I remember I see
piddle leaks toward the front and back of the engine. Like 3 to 6 piddles of oil toward the front,
and 2 to 4 piddles of oil toward the back of the engine. Not sure if it's valve cover or gasket
warped and going bad. When I start the engine, it makes a rattle rattle noise... then goes away.
Belts squeal and hard to keep speed when I get past Warp 7 (70 mph) it shakes, may need front
end alignment, and new tires. :) I keep her between Warp 1 (10 mph) to Warp 6.5 (65 mph).

At any rate, this car is my family heirloom and I help spend money on the C-4 Transmission. I
don't mind saving up for the engine. I already spent money on the rest of the previous posted
items.

It's a 3.3 liter, 200ci engine, Straight 6 engine. Will fuel injection be better than carb?

Shalom,

irishmantx
76531




Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK: This engine has probably had it and what you are experiencing is plain wear from VERY high miles with blowby past pistons and their rings and that will put pressure into crankcase instead of the minute vacuum it should be via the PCV valve. Bet it you just pull the dipstick while idling it blow out when it really should be slightly sucking in air there. Valve guids in head and their seals sucking in oil beyond what it can burn so some actually makes it out the exhaust!

BTW - none of this is good for the cat. converter which is probably dead and kinda surprised it isn't all clogged up.

The shaking is probably tire, wheel, wheel bearing adjustment. Alignment alone really shouldn't be the cause of imbalance or causing shaking if off but would make the cause worse if badly out of spec. With the miles you have to check everything - front end parts even if already done could need them again at a "few million" miles

Carb vs fuel injection. Late carbs were hard to meet emmsions and got more complicated and fussier than much older than this year of vehicle. You really can't switch it to injected as that would be an engineering project and legalities of the car could or would be an issue. Totally impractical and too involved to even think about that.

If you are going to invest in the reman engine start checking for what's available. Ford themselves might still have a reman available. It would be a total stroke of magic to find a good low mile original that matched exactly at the age. Don't expect a reman engine to compete with original new for pounding miles on them. They can only be truly new once,

T

Response From irishmantx

Dear Tom,


Thanks for the info! I had gone out to my 'donor' Granada for
some hard to find parts. My "donor" Granada is a 4.2L which is
a 255ci v8. (It's being used as a donor car since its too costly to
fix immediately.)

Anyways, I did find an air filter intake hose from the wall to the
filter. The old one on my mom's 1982 Granada fell and crumbled
apart. It fit good, and I agree with you about the 3.3L 200 engine.

OK: This engine has probably had it and what you are experiencing is plain wear from VERY high miles with blowby past pistons and their rings and that will put pressure into crankcase instead of the minute vacuum it should be via the PCV valve. Bet it you just pull the dipstick while idling it blow out when it really should be slightly sucking in air there. Valve guids in head and their seals sucking in oil beyond what it can burn so some actually makes it out the exhaust!

I agree with you, mom, dad and I put WAY to many miles on this engine. The
engine was built in Canada and I give credit that maple syrup makes every
thing better. :) (: HA HA! ;) ;) ;) It spits oily soot at least 2ft from tail pipe,
and I must admit, this engine is tired. The car is still good, with Tender Loving
Care, I hope it remains for the next generation. Thanx Tom for your advice.
Merry Christmas, Happy Chanukah, Happy Holidays. Hope you and yours have
a wonderful holiday season, and if you drink too much egg nog, have a backup
driver ready to take you home, or sleep it off in the back seat. ;)

Money is being saved up over time, and save up for a new
engine. I want an engine that has a warranty and there are
rebuilds, but I want a 3.3L 200ci, Straight 6 long block. Is it a
good idea to get new water pump, alternator, carb, fuel pump,
and other parts, or salvage them off of the old engine, and how
much for a catalytic converter?

If all else fails, what engine places do you recommend for a
long block replacement? I don't want the hassle and issues with
rebuild the heads and the block itself. I realize its too much to
put into fuel injection, however, if I am super wealthy, or I meet
a nice sweet, wealthy, rich, financially deep pocketed Jewish
sugar cougar, I might want to hire the guy's at Overhaulin and
do some 'upgrades' and the legal team to make it happen. HA!
Other than that, it's by the book and back to factory standard.

Shalom

irishmantx
76531


Response From Tom Greenleaf

The FORD cast iron straight six engines share quite a bit I recall. My own first was 144 CID in a 63 Falcon, a 200 CID in a 68 Falcon and by chance other Fords were all V8s. Some of these are identical with changes in stroke to change displacement. Many used the 250 CID then trucks went big on the 300 CID called a 4.9L.


What to replace with a reman engine:

If alternator is fine now re-use it. Water pump should be cheaper and probably would put a new not reman pump on. All new cooling system hoses and vacuum lines. Carb? I'd swap first and if needed just get a kit to rebuild it. Should be fairly straight forward if you have good instructions with the kit usually. rebuilt/reman for carbs is mostly a real good cleaning, new needle valve, accelerator pump and gaskets. The idle mix screw my have a hardened cap to prevent messing with the idle mixture. Procedures to remove that with a punch may come with a kit as there is a needle valve behind those - perhaps a "clutch" headed needle valve and you can buy just one socket for those head looks like white spot in this pic......

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Idea is not to tamper with them as too many folks fussed with them and messed them up. For a good cleaning you need to take that out though. With those or any count turn in to a gentle bottom so you can duplicate where it was. If all is lost bottom it (gently is the operative word) and back off about 2+1/2 turns to 3 should be about right. For DIY carb things there are a few special tools. Kit is cheap and should come with specs and a thing to measure float level. If real fussy you find spec of float(s) and weigh them as they can sink from soaking up gas or be heavier and the level of fuel in the bowl is critical for proper fuel mixture. By mid throttle or wide open the idle mix isn't being used at all and too many people think it is the whole adjustment - NOT.

Rebuilt units can be good but I've had tons that needed way too many adjustments that were off. For the vintage you would normally set the idle speed on any and if all is good that's about all. Late carbs were a pill and full of tamper proof crap which can be defeated for cleaning up small holes/ports for fuel flow. I did do a ton of carb work back when.

Catalytic converter: Generally I would suggest an OE one but with this vintage aftermarket should be fine and tons cheaper. Dunno - if welded into the front pipe you may need more tools to cut old one out with care so replacement can just be clamps like a muffler.

Can't say for everywhere but I can't think of a state in US legal to just use straight pipe if a vehicle came with a converter. A good one doesn't harm performance for this and most applications.

Not sure what reman engine will have with it. Ask so you know and if you are doing this at all replace old stuff like plug wires or tune-up things that don't come with it.

Truth is in decades of car stuff I've never used a reman engine - always fully checked out low mile complete used that was a perfect match - no games. All were 100% good with a history. This is just too old to get that lucky.

It was my training and my opinion which may not be everyone's but no reman engine will have the propensity to last as long as a good original. For those making Hot Rods and that - do what you want. For a practical driver leave as much original as possible with most things.

Save up. There's still lots to do with a replacement engine,

Tom

Response From irishmantx

Dear Tom,

OK, I'm still not sure where to go, I guess I'm asking amiss, I wanted some
recommendation on which place to find O.E.M. or 'original' style engines? I
am on a tighter than a lycra leather corset budget, and I wanted a place to
get a replacement engine. I really don't know the history of 'used' engines,
and often some want to sell bull and sell me a wore out engine 'worse' than
mine. :(

But if you don't know of any places to direct me to procure an engine that
is CAST IRON, most original, and or avoid places that sell undesirable engines.
That's OK. I'll ask the mechanic about to perform the 'surgery' to take care of
it. I believe the carb was replaced last year. It runs good, water pump and
alternator was replaced together last year. Kept full of 50/50.

Also what steering columns will fit this Granada? It's a fox foundation style
and I was 'informed' that most Mustang parts for 1982 would fit some parts
on the Granada. The rear end, drive shaft, and the dash top?

Just wanted to make sure I knew where I was going on replacing an engine.
It's a vital investment, and wanted to make sure I sounded like I know I was
asking for, instead of being baffled by bull. :P

Shalom,

irishmantx
76531


Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Engines: Holy cow - the exacting machine work to make one new is tough. A redo requires more specs to be checked and corrected that if all on paper you couldn't lift the book.

New and engine is cast. then line bored for as close to perfect for long shafts like crank and cam in this. New the engines each have their own DNA. You can't just swap crank bearing caps as once machined that's the fit for that one only. Even the machine tools for new only make so many "bores" before they are out of spec new! Redoing all that with a core engine is an art to itself and some come out well and some don't. They make parts that needed to be re bored to fit a new size but still it's a trade unto itself.

Cylinder walls don't wear evenly. When a cylinder fires the pressure of piston to cylinder wall is on one side so over time it loses it's perfect measurement for the travel of the piston. This is intense to get it all right at once.

************

Parts that interchange: Salvage places have a ton of data for what was the same for what models and years. I don't think any of us have the software for all of that but a good clue on some. Mercury made the Monarch which was the same body and most mechanical parts - just trim and sheet metal style, shape to look a bit different. I just dunno what other Ford products used the same exact body and think this one was on it's own. I actually don't know this car that well. There were Fairmonts, Zephyrs that might share many parts to Granada. TMK and FORD used names randomly for a while around then it could be also the same platform as once a smaller LTD and Marquis - none with V8s TMK and were unit body cars not chassis. Even Lincoln made a Versailles (sp?) that was really a dressed up Granada. Any decent salvage yard should know what can interchange,

T

Response From irishmantx

Dear Tom,


With all of that said, worst case scenario, if and when there is a 'Warp Core Breach'
and a new warp engine is needed, chances are, it might be towed to a mechanic that
my folx trust, and would likely tell the mechanic to go find a new total long block that
will fit the car. My dad owns a 1994 Buick Century, and had to replace the engine since
a shade tree idiot did not change the oil and burned up the motor. The 'idiot' left town,
and stuck my folx a $3,500 front wheel drive engine. OR so the price for a front wheel
drive engine for a 1994 Buick Century. (NOT A NEW THREAD!)

Push comes to shove, its not 'my' car to make any decisions. It's the "mom and dad
back up utility car since dad don't want to drive his car as often as he wants" kind of
car. LOL. Tom thank you for the help, looks like I beg my mom and dad not to scrap
this cream puff, but get a new motor, after my obligated expected offer to help pay for
half of it. Full LONG BLOCK 3.3 Liter, 200ci, 6cylinder engine.

Since I drive it a lot, and did 'front' most of the repairs and parts, I hope to have some
say in keeping this car. It's a solid machine and scares a lot of the plastic car toy drivers,
when they see a "REAL" car on the road. :)

Shalom,
irishmantx
76531