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The Following brands are available based on your search.

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Best Selling Genuine Chevrolet Wheel Bearings

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Timken, ACDelco
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Chevrolet Replacement Wheel Bearing Parts
Timken
2001 Chevrolet Blazer Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-2CD356A    5707  New

Qty:
$16.31
  • Cylindrical Roller Bearing
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
2001 - Chevrolet Blazer AWD Rear
Timken
1995 Chevrolet G10 Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-48EB0E0    6408  New

Qty:
$17.02
  • Cylindrical Roller Bearing
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1995 - Chevrolet G10 RWD Rear
Timken
1984 Chevrolet El Camino Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-48EB0E0    6408  New

Qty:
$17.02
  • Cylindrical Roller Bearing
  • Pontiac P Axle
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1984 - Chevrolet El Camino RWD Rear
Timken
1965 Chevrolet Impala Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-48EB0E0    6408  New

Qty:
$17.02
  • Cylindrical Roller Bearing
  • 12 Bolt Housing Cover
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1965 - Chevrolet Impala RWD Rear
Timken
1993 Chevrolet Caprice Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-2CD356A    5707  New

Qty:
$16.31
  • Cylindrical Roller Bearing
  • Chevrolet C Axle - 7.5 in., 7.75 in., 8.5 in. Ring Gear
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1993 - Chevrolet Caprice RWD Rear
Timken
1993 Chevrolet Caprice Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-48EB0E0    6408  New

Qty:
$17.02
  • Cylindrical Roller Bearing
  • Police, Taxi - Pontiac P Axle - Limited Slip Differential - 8.5 in., 8.75 in., 8.88 in. Ring Gear
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Drive Type Position
1993 - Chevrolet Caprice Wagon RWD Rear
Timken
1974 Chevrolet Bel Air Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-48EB0E0    6408  New

Qty:
$17.02
  • Cylindrical Roller Bearing
  • Non Buick B, Olds O Axle
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1974 - Chevrolet Bel Air RWD Rear
Timken
1965 Chevrolet Impala Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-2CD356A    5707  New

Qty:
$16.31
  • Cylindrical Roller Bearing
  • 10 Bolt Housing Cover
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1965 - Chevrolet Impala RWD Rear
Timken
2002 Chevrolet Camaro Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-2CD356A    5707  New

Qty:
$16.31
  • Cylindrical Roller Bearing
  • 7.5 in., 7.63 in. Ring Gear
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
2002 - Chevrolet Camaro RWD Rear
Timken
1990 Chevrolet Camaro Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-2CD356A    5707  New

Qty:
$16.31
  • Cylindrical Roller Bearing
  • Non 7.75 in. Ring Gear
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1990 - Chevrolet Camaro RWD Rear
Timken
1984 Chevrolet El Camino Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-2CD356A    5707  New

Qty:
$16.31
  • Cylindrical Roller Bearing
  • Chevy C Axle
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1984 - Chevrolet El Camino RWD Rear
Timken
2005 Chevrolet Blazer Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-2CD356A    5707  New

Qty:
$16.31
  • Cylindrical Roller Bearing
  • Non Limited Slip
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
2005 - Chevrolet Blazer RWD Rear
Timken
2003 Chevrolet S10 Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-48EB0E0    6408  New

Qty:
$17.02
  • Cylindrical Roller Bearing
  • Non Limited Slip Differential - 8.5 in. Ring Gear
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Drive Type Position
2003 - Chevrolet S10 Extended Cab Pickup RWD Rear
Timken
1991 Chevrolet S10 Blazer Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-2CD356A    5707  New

Qty:
$16.31
  • Cylindrical Roller Bearing
  • 7.63 in. Ring Gear
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Doors Drive Type Position
1991 - Chevrolet S10 Blazer 4 4WD Rear
Timken
2004 Chevrolet Blazer Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-48EB0E0    6408  New

Qty:
$17.02
  • Cylindrical Roller Bearing
  • ZR2 Higher Wider Package
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
2004 - Chevrolet Blazer 4WD Rear
Timken
2004 Chevrolet S10 Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-48EB0E0    6408  New

Qty:
$17.02
  • Cylindrical Roller Bearing
  • Non Limited Slip
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Drive Type Position
2004 - Chevrolet S10 Crew Cab Pickup 4WD Rear
Timken
2001 Chevrolet Blazer Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-2CD356A    5707  New

Qty:
$16.31
  • Cylindrical Roller Bearing
  • 1.4 in. I.D. x 2.25 in. O.D.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Doors Drive Type Position
2001 - Chevrolet Blazer 4 4WD Rear
Timken
2001 Chevrolet Blazer Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-48EB0E0    6408  New

Qty:
$17.02
  • Cylindrical Roller Bearing
  • 2.08 in. I.D. x 2.53 in. O.D.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Doors Drive Type Position
2001 - Chevrolet Blazer 4 4WD Rear
Timken
1972 Chevrolet G10 Van Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-2CD356A    5707  New

Qty:
$16.31
  • Cylindrical Roller Bearing
  • H024
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1972 - Chevrolet G10 Van RWD Rear
ACDelco
2006 Chevrolet Aveo5 Wheel Bearing ACDelco

P311-03A1D20    W0133-1951451  New

Qty:
$229.82
ACDelco Wheel Bearing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - Chevrolet Aveo5

Latest Chevrolet Repair and Wheel Bearing Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

steering/suspention

Showing 4 out of 5 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From ivanho on steering/suspention

I have a 1989 Chevrolet celebrity front wheel-drive. 2.8 liter. It has a shimmy in the front-end and I dont have a clue what it could be. I checked the tie-rods and wheel-bearings and they appear to be tight. But it has a shimmy for sure. Any help would be appreciated.

Response From Discretesignals

Shimmy at slow speeds? Shimmy while cruising, on accel, decel, or all of the above?

If you rotate the front tires to the rear, does it still shimmy in the front? Have you inspected the tires for slipped belts or bubbles? Was this in an accident before the shimmy started?

Response From ivanho

The front-end shimmies at all speeds. I have changed the tires completely and it still shimmies. I have about reached my whitts-end. I don't believe it has been in an accident. Thanx for the response.

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

Lots of good suggestions to check out........Not a whole lot of info on the problem.........
If the shimmy only happens under acceleration (when you are giving it gas) and not when you are coasting.......Then more than likely you have a bad inner CV joint.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Not sure what you mean about the tires and what you have done? As DS suggested you would take whole wheel and tire and rotate them to rear and see if the problem changed with that but seems it doesn't or you didn't do that yet?


Could be the wheel not the tire so if only a new tire on same bad wheel doesn't count yet.


Spin the wheels with tires on, car in "N" - properly hoisted both front wheels for this complaint and car. Watch the wheel and tires while turning by hand for flaws.


From there if all is right I would move on to checking brakes for problems. First clue would be one tighter than the other and worn more on one side than the other.


Areas of brake problems include the rotors, calipers, pins that stick, pads that failed, rotors that have built up dirt/rust between rotor and hub will show as an out of round wheel when installed and tightened back up and requires removing rotor to clean up or more depending on what found and how long it was driven might need new rotors AGAIN even if done already and not done properly. Flex hoses can allow caliper to drag but usually fail worse than you are describing such that a caliper locks up, gets hot and car pulls as that brake can't release.


The problem of dirt or rust between a rotor and hub can happen anytime a wheel is removed - even just normal wheel and tire rotation IF rotor is free from a hub when wheel is removed the dirt/rust flakes fall unseen and would show as warped. A bit common for vehicles where rotors are not fastened to hubs like this car AND with age and exposed to road salts especially.


It all counts - wheels if aluminum type also can build up crud and won't spin true.


This should actually be easy to diagnose still unknown what to fix until you go thru the check list of things that could cause this. Pretty much anything that turns with the wheels. Why are you so sure it's not a bearing? The description isn't consistent with a bad bearing but still not ruled out to me yet. More common is complaint of a growl with bearings. If a wobble it's about ready to fall off!


T

2000 Chevrolet Venture – “clicking noise” misdiagnosed by my mechanic

Showing 3 out of 6 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From agarb on 2000 Chevrolet Venture – “clicking noise” misdiagnosed by my mechanic

A noise recently developed on my 2000 Chevrolet Venture. It is a clicking noise that gets faster and louder as the vehicle goes faster. When stopped, with the engine running, there is no noise.

Last week, a local shop used a “chassis ear” to diagnose the problem as the left front wheel bearing. In addition to $100 to diagnose the problem, they wanted $325 for the replacement part and $120 to install it. I thought their price was too steep and I told them not to do the repair.

On Saturday, I bought a new hub and bearing assembly at the local parts store for $120 and installed it myself. Problem is, the noise is still there, unchanged. I called the local shop and politely expressed my displeasure in their misdiagnosis. They offered to take another look for the problem or refund my $100 diagnosis fee. I decided to give them another chance and will take the vehicle back to tomorrow.

Any thoughts on what the problem might? Could it be a CV joint? I certainly don’t hear any clunking noises when turning.
Any thoughts on what the responsibility of the local shop should be towards correcting their misdiagnosis? What are my ethical obligations are to fairly compensate the shop for their time in this situation?

Response From Guest

Hi, Original Poster here. Talk about a blast from the past! My original post was over two years ago. I finally got the problem fixed, no help from the shop, though. I realized that if I slightly depressed the e-brake the clicking would go away. I pulled the rear wheels and found the shoes needed replaced. I also had a leaking wheel cylinder on the driver side. After replacing these items myself, the clicking has been banished to just a painful memory. Hope this can help somebody else.

Response From way2old Top Rated Answer

Thanks for coming by and letting all of us know the fix. Might help another poster.

Response From DanD

You’ve just received a lesson that automotive repairs are not always, black or white/ this or that.
The repair facility no doubt thought that was the noise and would not have made their recommendations if they honestly thought that; who wants to be proven wrong?
Chasing noises around a vehicle can be a very difficult thing; especially if the noise cannot be reproduced in the shop on a hoist. I still haven’t found a Tech that’s willing to risk injury by hanging on to the outside of a vehicle while driving down the road. LOL
It’s unfortunate that they were wrong but with you not allowing them to perform the repairs; we really don’t know how they would have handled the situation?
All I can go by is what I would have done; in this situation. I would have openly admitted that I only thought the hub/bearing assembly was the cause and added a disclaimer that it might not be; we would have to try it to confirm it. Then if it didn’t cure the problem we’d have to work together on finding the root cause. What I mean by working together; is that I would be on my time for the labour; for the rest of the checking. Keeping you informed every step of the way; while in search of the gremlin. I know don't say it; hind sight is 20/20; but after many years in the trade I’ve learnt to keep everyone in the loop and explain what we’re up against.
The way it sounds this repair facility is willing to do something to help you; with what they’ve offered. When they do find the cause of the noise, is when the rest of this story will play out; we don’t know what their policies are?
Ask them before you allow them to proceed; with round two, in this adventure.

As for you finding a cheaper bearing and doing the work yourself that’s good; everyone wants to save a buck. But know the repair facility is going to have to inspect your repairs making sure that they were performed properly and completely. Things like; were the fasteners tightened with a torque wrench to the proper value, did the brake rotor get checked for excessive run-out (warp-age), and were all the mating surfaces properly cleaned?
Also just a word of warning; second line wheel bearings; as far as I’m concerned, are junk. The first hard road shock from a pot hole and that bearing will begin to degrade at a very high rate. The factory or their equivalent after market bearings are not lasting; why would a sub standard one? There’s more then just the packaging that makes a first line bearing more expensive.

As for the guest that replied; with their comment of used bearings; well all I can say there is that they’re talking out the south end of a north bound moose. LOL
There's a reason that we refer to a salvage yard as a JUNK YARD. There are something’s that just can’t be put back into service, without them failing; bearings are one of them.

Dan.

Response From Guest

I have the same problem. It is hard to replace wheel bearing, to put it in and expensive. The easiser solution is to go to a used car parts place and buy a slihghly used wheel hub (it includes the bearing too) - costs about 30$. Any mechanic can put it in for 50 $, much easier to replace the hub than the wheel bearin.

Response From flgmtech1

they may have diagnosed it for a Hub noise, but this is generally a noise that starts out at around 35 and gets louder the faster you go, it also is more of a loud humming that gets louder, things to note is that they may have told you the wrong side, the best way to make sure it is a hub issue is to turn the wheel when the nois is present at a steady speed and if turning toward the left or right it eases up or stops it can help to justify a hub noise, although if it does not change it could also mean both front hubs are affected, not common, but does happen. Also, if you still have the hub you took off, take it and put it on the side you did not touch as they are interchangeable and see if the noise stops. It is easier to jack the front end and secure with stands and using a stehescope listen to both hubs while someone slowly increases the speed in drive, BUT BE VERY CAREFUL! This can go very badly if you are not careful!
I have not heard to many hubs that created a Clicking noise, my recommendation is in this time of economic down turn to shop around to multiple dealers who can offer second opinions.

02 Silverado z71 rear end issues

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From king on 02 Silverado z71 rear end issues

02 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LS Z-71 regular cab short bed. 5.3 liter gas. 98000 miles. G80 rear end.

I have been having an intermittent metal rubbing sound coming from the rear end for the past several months. The most common situation where it occurs is going around a sharp right hand curve with a good bit of speed. I thought it was brakes at first and had firestone do the rear brakes. The problem persisted. I thought myself it might be the outer wheel bearing as the sound seems to come from the rear left side. I took it to a Chevy dealership and they could find nothing wrong. Then I tried a local shop and they drove it around and could not produce the noise I was hearing. They had it on the lift and could hear some light noise coming from the rear end. They thought it might be the clutch in the rear end. I had them service the rear end and a small piece of a tooth came out with the old gear oil. The sound persists, but seems to be muffled a bit now which makes me think the new oil affected it and the problem is in the rear end and not a wheel bearing. I am guessing I am at a point of rebuilding or replacing. Should I have someone rebuild my rear end? Can I buy an aftermarket rear differential and that bolt up and work? What should I do here?

Response From re-tired

You did not say if it was a posi rear end or not . If it is there is a additive that must be added to the fluid . BUT if you have piece of internal workings if its a tooth its probably a side (spider) gear, in the oil you may consider getting it rebuilt or a low milage salvage complete axle. Either way be sure to get the same ratio.

Response From king Top Rated Answer

It's a posi-track rear end. The guys at the shop I spoke to spoke of the additive having to be added to the fluid, so I assume they did it. I thought about trying to find a used rear axle assembly, but craigslist and a few salvage yard inventory checks have yielded no results. I'm in Arkansas and rear lockers are prime pieces of equipment here. Would a rebuild be economical parts/labor wise over getting an aftermarket rear differential? I have read the G80 rear ends are subject to failure with hard use and I would believe it. I have never towed anything or hailed over 400 pounds in it, and that was like twice.

Response From re-tired

If your going to keep truck and its in good shape then in my experiance an Aurburn posi unit is top of the line.I've installed several in everything from a stock truck to a mud racer. Expect to drop $500+ - P&L . If too rich for you ,go to a dealer and order a set of spider gears,have a shop install.


Auburn, Lockers, Eaton Posi Units for Cars & Trucks

1992 S10 Blazer 4X4??

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Wags391 on 1992 S10 Blazer 4X4??

My 92 chevy blazer makes a clicking noise around the passenger front wheel. When I slow down whatever it is locks into place and then doesn't make the noise again. Sometimes a noise comes from the transfer case. If I shift from 2 to 4-wheel it stops. Any idea?

Response From tractorboy Top Rated Answer

You may want to try and find exactly where the noise is coming from. I had an 89 chevy celeb., that made a sqeeking sound all the time. Sometimes it was on the left sometime on the right...front ..back ?. I took a cheap tape recorder and one by one tapped ( i had a losey paint job, ) the microphone over each wheel well. I would start recording and say "right front " or "left front" into the mic and then drive . When I listened to the tape at home the squeek was the loudest on the right front...and sure enough the wheel bearing was bad...it also cost $90 to replace, Chevrolet wanted close to $175....thats another story at another time. I did this a few years ago and I was just looking through an auto tool catalog and they have a device that is wireless with 3 or 4 wireless mics for cliping in wheel wells, under the chasis, next to the transmission. Anyway I guess the message to come away from this with is ...I went right to the bad wheel bearing the first time, did not have to take each wheel and rotor / drum ( all the wheels turned ok ...just a constant sqeek ) You mave have something wrong with your front axle CV joint.

2002 Alero humming noise - ABS, Trac Off lights on

Showing 2 out of 13 Posts | Show 11 Hidden Posts
Question From ez50nj on 2002 Alero humming noise - ABS, Trac Off lights on

I've had a humming/tire separation type noise for about 6 months when I decelerate to 30 mph. About 2 months ago the Trac Off, ABS, and Service Engine Soon lights came on. Private repair shop ran scanner which indicated excessive wheel spin. One code left front, 2 codes right front. Tech advised wheel bearings worn so I replaced both. Driving out of shop all three lights back on.

The car feels tighter, but I still get the humming noise when I decelerate to exactly 30 mph. In addition, I hear a droning/whining noise right at 50 mph.

Any ideas besides the front wheel bearings?

car has 138K miles, tracks straight down the road, and has no steering wheel shimmie.

Response From Discretesignals

You should take it back. Could be they missed something, or maybe even a defective part, which isn't unusual with the cheaper brand of hub bearings.

The droning noises could be from the tires. Cupped or chopped tires can make those noises too. It is also important that the tires are all the same size because that will cause WSS codes to pop up.

Response From ez50nj

noises gone after 2 front hub bearings changed, but abs/trac off/svc eng. soon lights come on quickly when:

1. Back out of driveway in reverse, switch to drive and accelerate
2. Turn wheel full right or full left when engine first started and car not moved

Being that the the car drove perfectly before the hub bearings replaced and the humming and droning noises persisted until the tires were rotated, I conclude that

-The warning lights were not a result of worn hub bearings
-The noise was eliminated by rotating tires side to side on front and rear respectively

***All I can theorize is that looking back in time, we had a sweeping all day rain storm about a month prior to hurricane Sandy. Not a typical vertical downpour, but a swirling nor'easter sweeping rain. I'm wondering if the female leads that plug into the hub got soaked and need to be cleaned and dried out?

***Or, because I have inner wear on both rear tires, could excessive wheel spin from inner rear worn tires triggering the sensors to throw on the lights and DE-activate the ABS and Traction Control?

I'm due for inspection in 2/2013 and will fail inspection with lights on, and want to sell car shortly after, but need lights off, fresh inspection sticker, and functional abs and trac control. Don't want to pour alot of money into car as the paint and body are near perfect and power train is strong. 11 year old Alero presents itself better that most for age and mileage. 2002 GX Coupe with 138K on clock I could hold out for a while and get 2200-2500 if dummy lights off.

Ideas?

Thanks

Response From Sidom

I just breezed thru this so if it has already been mentioned...than.....oops but I'll toss in my 2 cents.....

I know on most GM systems when there is a drivability problem it will automatically disable the traction control & steering stability systems....I see there is a service engine soon light......That needs to be taken care of 1st..

What is the code for the SES?

Response From ez50nj

after 3-4 months with trac off/abs/svc engine soon. Lights are out and car runs fine. Gunning in reverse then forward might be sending stronger signal to abs module? abs humming/activation sometimes kicks on starting out then goes away

Response From Double J Top Rated Answer

Subject: ABS Front Wheel Speed Codes Jumper Harness - kw booster brake C1221 C1222 C1223 C1225 C1226 C1232 C1233 C1252 C1253 caliper DTC EBTCM electrical grab ground hydraulic hydroboost #PI00966B - (04/19/2004)

Models: .


When servicing the vehicle with the VIN you entered, the following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the described symptoms. Condition/Concern:
91 - 05 JB, NB, or LB vehicles may set any one or a combination of front wheel speed sensor ABS codes as intermittent or hard failures. Recommendation/Instructions:
If after inspection and diagnosis, using the applicable trouble tree(s), the cause of the fault is not readily identified, the most probable cause is often the wheel speed sensor jumper harness. Oftentimes, the harness checks good with the J 39200 fluke meter but will not function correctly when subjected to suspension movement, vibration, and flexing. Seldom will the above condition be corrected by the replacement of the EBCM. The listed part numbers are leads that incorporate a highly flexible "angel hair" that reduces down to standard gauge wire so that it may be properly spliced into the existing circuit. Standard gauge wire should not be used in place of these part numbers.
YEAR
Left
Right
PART NUMBERS BY BODY LINE--J BODY
92
12140077
12140078
93*
12128505
12128504
or 12140077 (Jumper Harness)
or 12140078
***NOTE***93 J-Body had 2 designs available -- a conventional "splice-in" design" or a complete 2-wire jumper harness. Inspect vehicle to determine which design is needed.
94
12128505 jumper harness
12128504 jumper harness
95-05
12187091(same P/N, Left or Right)
Note: Visually Inspect the wheel speed sensor harness connectors and yellow wire to see if it is unseated from the connector. This is especially important on the left hand side. If the wiring is faulty, replace the harness with the above part numbers.
12187091
PART NUMBERS BY BODY LINE - N BODY
91
12091371(same P/N, Left or Right)
12091371
92-98
12140077
12140078
99-05
12167654
12167653
P-90 (97-03 MALIBU/ CUTLASS and 04 CHEV CLASSIC):
97-04
12167654
12167653
PART NUMBERS BY BODY LINE--L BODY
92-96
12140077
12140078
.
Please follow this diagnosis process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed. If these steps do not resolve the condition, please contact GM TAC for further diagnostic assistance. This diagnostic approach was developed for the vehicle with the VIN you entered and should not be automatically be used for other vehicles with similar symptoms. Models:
(1992-2005 CHEVROLET CAVALIER) and (1992-1994 PONTIAC SUNBIRD) and (1995-2005 PONTIAC SUNFIRE) and (1991-2005 PONTIAC GRAND AM) and (1991 OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS CALAIS) and (1991-1998 BUICK SKYLARK) AND (1992-1998 OLDSMOBILE ACHIEVA) AND (1999-2004 OLDSMOBILE ALERO) AND (1997-2003 CHEVROLET MALIBU) AND (2004 CHEVROLET CLASSIC) AND (1997-1999 OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS) AND (1992-1996 CHEVROLET BERETTA) AND (1992-1996 CHEVROLET CORSICA)
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Response From ez50nj

new twist. DID NOT replace jumper harness. Just to experiment, I reversed out of driveway aggressively and accelerated hard and lights did not come on. I did get ABS activation/humming while at speed (not braking) for a few days, now it sometimes activates at the end of the trip when I park.

Could be signal disruption from jumper harness to ABS module/ECM? I'm not going to chase it down with $$$ if lights don't come on.

Thoughts?

Response From ez50nj

Great info. Thanks. I'm not mechanically inclined, so if I went to a private shop what do you estimates parts and labor would be to install Jumper Harness?

Interesting new observations/ habits

Lights first came on 2 months ago after first start of day after major rainstorm the night before.When I put car in reverse and turned wheel to left (now activates left or right turn reverse or forward on first turn of day.

Lately, I've tries this experiment: Once lights come on, I drive a few feet, turn off engine, then re-start and the lights stay off for my entire 20 mile trip to work. I stop, put it in park - no lights (ABS/Traction work BTW when lights are off). When I leave work and lights pop on, I do same step. Turn off, re-start and no lights. I make stops at many lights and stop signs on the way home and lights never come on.

THE CRAZY THING IS THAT WHEN I REACH MY DESTINATION (HOME), THE LIGHTS COME ON AS I PULL INTO MY DRIVEWAY BEFORE I STOP CAR AND ENGAGE IN "PARK". It's a slow left turn and uphill, so maybe that's why the lights don't pop on when I'm on the highway ay high speeds making sharp turns.

Is it possible the memory codes remember the incline and surface of my driveway and would trigger lights while car is coasting toward garage???
Again, if I simulate the "coming home driveway incline thing" out on the road I cannot trigger the lights?

Response From ez50nj

new twist:

Lights ALWAYS COME ON first start of day - reverse and turning wheel either way. I researched and tried this:

- seat belt not engaged
-key to 'on' until chime stops
-repeat again twice to 'on' position

Start car - reverse-turn right or left-no lights and ABS and Traction work.

Am I clearing codes with the key in 'on' position 3 times?

Response From Double J

When i read your concern,the first thing that came to mind was the Jumper Harnesses.
We've replaced a ton of them for this type concern.

I'm not saying this is your problem because we're not there to perform any diagnostics on it.

* Your best bet is to take it to your trusted shop and have them diagnose it for you.*
You can mention the TSB to your shop,maybe they didn't check for bulletins and aren't aware of it.
Maybe they did and it doesn't apply

Do you know what codes are being set?

If you're looking for an internet diagnosis,then replace the Jumper harnesses.
They are a known problem.

I know what approx. it should go for but i wont say,i'll let the shop tell you what they expect for the repair.
You can always call around for estimates.

Response From ez50nj

You're theory and the TSB sound about right. I'm in no rush to do it until I sell the car next spring. Thanks for the feedback!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If these tires are that screwed up they alone can and will cause ABS/Trac Control to get lousy input. Plain rain mentioned even hard and driven unless it flooded the car should dry out.

Tires may still be legal for wear but have to match. Seems they have already caused hub/bearings to be blamed so pay attention to tires. No feature a vehicle can have for traction for stopping, steering or going can be any better than the tires that touch the road,

T

Response From ez50nj

paragraph 2--you hit it on the head. Brought it back. Had codes. I asked them to swap two front tires and two rear tires (not front to rear, just left to right swap on front and rear). Droning gone at 50 mph/wobble noise at 30 gone. No Trac off or ABS lights on. One of the L/R tires has minor inner wear and cupping so that might have triggered an "excessive wheel spin code"

Thanks for the feedback!