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The Following brands are available based on your search.

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Best Selling Genuine Cadillac Wheel Bearings

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including SKF, ACDelco, Beck Arnley, Timken, FAG
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We stock Wheel Bearing parts for most Cadillac models, including Brougham, Calais, Catera, Commercial Chassis, DTS, DeVille, Eldorado, Escalade, Escalade ESV, Fleetwood, Series 62, Seville.

SKF
1986 Cadillac Fleetwood Wheel Bearing SKF

P311-08D74BF    W0133-1682953  New

Qty:
$19.83
SKF Wheel Bearing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: SKF
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
1986 - Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham d'Elegance
SKF
2004 Cadillac Escalade ESV Wheel Bearing SKF

P311-48B5E1D    W0133-1687839  New

Qty:
$66.38
SKF Wheel Bearing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Rear
Brand: SKF
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Cadillac Escalade ESV
ACDelco
1986 Cadillac Fleetwood Wheel Bearing ACDelco

P311-0FE36A1    W0133-1682953  New

Qty:
$48.28
ACDelco Wheel Bearing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
  • Front - Outer
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
1986 - Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham d'Elegance
ACDelco
1986 Cadillac Fleetwood Wheel Bearing ACDelco

P311-3605594    W0133-1682952  New

Qty:
$46.35
ACDelco Wheel Bearing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
1986 - Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham d'Elegance
ACDelco
1999 Cadillac Escalade Wheel Bearing ACDelco

P311-0CF920C    W0133-1686760  New

Qty:
$115.67
ACDelco Wheel Bearing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
  • 9.50" Ring Gear
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Cadillac Escalade
ACDelco
2009 Cadillac DTS Wheel Bearing ACDelco

P311-3982FC3    W0133-1686457  New

Qty:
$360.55
ACDelco Wheel Bearing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
  • Heavy Duty Brakes
  • Rear
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Cadillac DTS
Beck Arnley
1976 Cadillac DeVille Wheel Bearing - Front Inner Beck Arnley

P311-0AD3C20    051-2618  New

Qty:
$13.48
Beck Arnley Wheel Bearing  Front Inner
  • BEARINGS
  • Beck/Arnley parts meet foreign nameplate OE specifications for form, fit and function. Our product specialists work with a network of global sourcing partners so you can install the right part with confidence.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Beck Arnley
Position: Front Inner
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1976 - Cadillac DeVille Front Inner
Beck Arnley
1976 Cadillac Calais Wheel Bearing - Rear Beck Arnley

P311-5536A8B    051-4113  New

Qty:
$57.18
Beck Arnley Wheel Bearing  Rear
  • BEARINGS
  • Beck/Arnley parts meet foreign nameplate OE specifications for form, fit and function. Our product specialists work with a network of global sourcing partners so you can install the right part with confidence.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Beck Arnley
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1976 - Cadillac Calais Rear
Timken
1979 Cadillac Seville Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-2CD356A    5707  New

Qty:
$16.31
Timken Wheel Bearing  Rear
  • Cylindrical Roller Bearing
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1979 - Cadillac Seville RWD Rear
Timken
1969 Cadillac Fleetwood Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-13FA93B    RW509FR  New

Qty:
$77.50
Timken Wheel Bearing  Rear
  • Conrad Deep Groove Single Row Radial Ball Bearing for Wheel Bearing Application
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1969 - Cadillac Fleetwood RWD Rear
Timken
2013 Cadillac Escalade ESV Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-1057D64    513067  New

Qty:
$29.21
Timken Wheel Bearing  Rear
  • Cylindrical Roller Bearing
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
2013 - Cadillac Escalade ESV AWD Rear
Timken
1996 Cadillac Fleetwood Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-08CD25C    R1561TV  New

Qty:
$44.94
Timken Wheel Bearing  Rear
  • Cylindrical Roller Bearing
  • 11.15 in. x 2.75 in. Brakes
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1996 - Cadillac Fleetwood RWD Rear
Timken
1993 Cadillac Fleetwood Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-2CD356A    5707  New

Qty:
$16.31
Timken Wheel Bearing  Rear
  • Cylindrical Roller Bearing
  • 11 in. Brakes
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1993 - Cadillac Fleetwood RWD Rear
Timken
1983 Cadillac Commercial Chassis Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-48EB0E0    6408  New

Qty:
$17.02
Timken Wheel Bearing  Rear
  • Cylindrical Roller Bearing
  • 12 in. Brakes
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Drive Type Position
1983 - Cadillac Commercial Chassis Base RWD Rear
Timken
1979 Cadillac DeVille Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-2CD356A    5707  New

Qty:
$16.31
Timken Wheel Bearing  Rear
  • Cylindrical Roller Bearing
  • 11 in. x 2 in. Brakes
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1979 - Cadillac DeVille RWD Rear
Timken
1981 Cadillac Fleetwood Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-48EB0E0    6408  New

Qty:
$17.02
Timken Wheel Bearing  Rear
  • Cylindrical Roller Bearing
  • 12 in. x 2.5 in. Brakes
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Drive Type Position
1981 - Cadillac Fleetwood Sedan RWD Rear
Timken
2001 Cadillac Catera Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-13D6F6D    510052  New

Qty:
$58.04
Timken Wheel Bearing  Rear
  • Preset, Pre-Greased And Pre-Sealed Double Row Ball Bearing Assembly
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
2001 - Cadillac Catera RWD Rear
FAG
2004 Cadillac Escalade ESV Wheel Bearing FAG

P311-59DA0F8    W0133-1687839  New

Qty:
$74.85
FAG Wheel Bearing
Brand: FAG
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Cadillac Escalade ESV
FAG
1999 Cadillac Escalade Wheel Bearing FAG

P311-59DA0F8    W0133-1687839  New

Qty:
$74.85
FAG Wheel Bearing
  • 8.50" Ring Gear
Brand: FAG
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Cadillac Escalade
SKF
1999 Cadillac Escalade Wheel Bearing SKF

P311-48B5E1D    W0133-1687839  New

Qty:
$66.38
SKF Wheel Bearing
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 8.50" Ring Gear
  • Rear
Brand: SKF
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Cadillac Escalade

Latest Cadillac Repair and Wheel Bearing Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1999 Cadillac Escalade ABS light

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From themckeown on 1999 Cadillac Escalade ABS light

About a week ago I had my 1999 Cadillac Escalade in the shop to have the two front wheel bearings replaced and have an alignment done. Two days later the ABS light randomly came on, there is only 25 miles on the car since it left the shop, it’s not like I drove it across the country. Is it possible that during the repairs something happened to tweak the ABS sensor? Or during repairs is it possible that the ABS Controller itself was compromised? I am thinking about taking the car back to the same shop and confronting them about it. What do you think?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Hmmm - Two days later? Yes the bearings are involved with the ABS. If blinking now I think it will just stay on soon meaning you have regular braking action but it wont go into ABS mode.

Since you just had this done just go right back and have them check connections AND do a code reading for the ABS. It's possible one or both of the bearings are not compatible or defective in the ABS part. Bearing should be safe but they should take care of that since it just happened.

It's also possible that it's not involved in the bearing job at all. Trust is everything with this,

T

Caddy ABS problems

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From rhayes on Caddy ABS problems

ABS problems-'04 cadillac CTS 64k-at slow speeds the brake petal pulsated just when turning left or right. left off petal and reapply brakes seem to work ok. no problems at higher speeds. have been to several shops and show NO error codes. problem very intermitant,but does seem to happen more often.

Response From DanD Top Rated Answer

This is likely a wheel speed senor. It may not be setting codes due to the sensor not going far enough out of its parameters for the electronic brake control module (EBCM) to recognize a fault but enough to set up a false ABS activation.

The wheel speed sensors on this vehicle are an integral part of the wheel bearing assembly.
If a wheel bearing is beginning to fail and become slightly loose (you may not feel the looseness by hand) that during a turn the bearing is allowed to tip slightly; due to the weight of the vehicle pushing on the bearing.
If this is what’s happening; the air gap between the sensor and the reluctor (trigger) ring opens or closes up; changing the sensors output.
The EBCM thinks it’s seeing a wheel slowing down, faster then the others and becomes active in an attempt to bring it back inline with the others.

With the use of a scan tool, set up to read wheel speed sensor speeds; a technician might be able to pick out which wheel is causing this?
I’ve also have had to use a lab scope connected to the individual sensors; road test the vehicle, while monitoring the sensors real-time wave pattern; when a scan tool was to slow to pick out the fault.

On a last resort you could start changing wheel bearing assemblies until you find which is causing the problem but that can be very expensive.

Dan.

2001 Lesabre Limited piching sideways on bumps

Showing 2 out of 16 Posts | Show 14 Hidden Posts
Question From mugwump77 on 2001 Lesabre Limited piching sideways on bumps

2001 Buick Lesabre Limited, 65,000 miles, driven by old lady (really!), air shocks, no damage, nothing Loose. Problem: When hitting a bump or pothole, rear and pitches sharply sideways. Had it up on hoist, nothing loose or damaged. Wheel bearings tight. Front end seems to be aligned OK, steering wheel is centered, car does not pull to the side. When rear end bounced manually, both sides seem to bounce equally and level but when hitting a pothole or bump, rear end pitches sideways...enough to be dangerous, especially on slick roads. Kelly tires. Any ideas? Thanks, Muggs

Response From huxley

Hey Muggs,

Not sure if this will be helpful at all...but I have noticed this to a degree with the exact same model that my girlfriend has which I drive somewhat often. It doesn't seem as sharp as you're pointing out here, but it definitely happens. Something with the design perhaps? I'd be interested to know what the issue is if you figure it out.

-Nate

Response From Guest

Thanks, Nate, that's what I think too......its a design problem. Nothing to do but put up with it. Our main car is a Toyota. Its as as sure-footed as a mountain goat so this Buick is an annoyance. Thanks again, Muggs

Response From huxley

Haha yeah...it's a smooth ride but when you're driving a car that felt like it was meant to be a boat, this will happen I suppose. I often feel like it should have a rudder instead of a steering wheel.

-Nate

Response From mugwump77

The problem is solved. The rear shocks seemed to be OK but I replaced them anyway. That seemed to have solved the problem of pitching sidewise on bumps. M

Response From Tom Greenleaf


Nate! The one up close is a boat. A 2001 LeSabre is an economy car! I owned a couple of those suckers and three people could stand thru the sun roof! You could move a twin bed made up in the back seat and close the trunk lid on a small car as a spare. Never mind a rudder you needed tug boats to park those suckers but boy were they fun!

T

Response From Double J

Hey Tom

Driven many of those...
MAN..those were nice riding cars...especially that "Monster" in the front..
It appeared to just float down the street...
Remember the rubber insulation on all the coil springs...
A buddy of mine had the exact one pictured....used to let me drive it for weeks at a time..
He had several cars...What a great car!!!!
They don't make 'em like that anymore...
Probably one of the few Ford/Lincoln products I liked working on...."Remember the test drive made it all worth it"..When the job itself was rough....
Thanks for the trip down memory lane...

JIm

Response From Tom Greenleaf


Jim - had a couple 73 Caddy Land Yachts too. Not the Eldo but two of the one on the left. Dang hood alone weighed more than some wicked small cars of today by itself! Of course you needed to friends with an OPEC country to drive those too

Just fun,

T

Response From Double J Top Rated Answer

With all due respect Tom/Lincoln guys...

NOW YOUR TALKING....CADILLAC...BABY....

Yea ..MAN, those hoods were heavy...remember when you had to take one off to do engine work...
Definitely needed some helpers..
Owned quite a few land yachts myself..
Remember under the hood of those Eldos...more room than some studio apartments...LOL
Those were the days...and Gm/Ford wonders why they cant sell cars today

Response From dave284

Sorry to but in guys....just wondering if these cars can be converted to fuel injection....I owned a few bigems myself, back then gas was .40 a gal.........

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Dave: The Caddies used a lot of monster 472 aka "the 501" engines with quadrajets. Fuel injection was in some rare models - they didn't do any better on gas just took out the hassle or the shamless indignity of having to pump the gas pedal once it they would never start.

The 60s had the same monsters that were as big but didn't look so big in the crowd. They also got tons better fuel mileage in the 60 than the 73 (detuned for emissions) cars. Had a 67 and a 68 Caddy that would do close to 20 + without trouble on trips - nothing around town. Those engines had so much power you barely touched the gas to maintain hwy speeds. Some used VR (variable rate) torque converters which was and felt like limitless ratios for power and close to lock up without load!

Today: The best anti-theft control ever is let a theif try to steal a car with a carb - will screw them up every time if they never drove one and don't recall the days

T

Response From Double J

.40 cents a gallon...MAN your young....
I remember it much cheaper than that.
I remember the gas price wars between local gas stations vying for business, gas in the teens,YES teens and they even had give aways like S & H green stamps, dishes,glasses,mugs...etc...
Those were the days....the oil companies have forgotten what made them and what customer service once was..

How 'bout it old timers.....

Response From Tom Greenleaf


I recall the "gas wars" in town (1960s) one station against the other - 17.9cents (they always wanted that .9 cent) - always something free with a fill up too. Was working at Mobil when gas first crossed the one dollar line and we had to post the real price on a card but didn't have the spot for a whole dollar and the pumps couldn't be adjusted so we had to just set them for half and double the charge till new pumps were installed.

Regualar gas was 93 octane and high test was 98 or better! Sunoco used to sell 105 octane. Now we think 92 is the "super" gasoline! "Unleaded was called "white gas" or "marine" gas that only Amoco sold here for Winter storage or gasoline heaters. Lead (tetraethyl) in gas would congeal pretty quickly and make a jelly at the top of a gas can if left too long!

Also - "self serve" WHAT WAS THAT?? ------- And find where the gas cap was on all those cars - some hidden behind tail lights on the fins!

T

Response From Double J

Yes..I remember it being as low as 15.9 cents per gallon in the sixties as well...."Fill 'er up with ethyl"
And for that price,you got the windows (all) cleaned,including h/lights,fluids checked,tires checked,(air was free) everything under the hood checked,and and and you got to use the "clean" washroom....try even finding a washroon at a gas station today...
Standard Oil slogan.."As you travel ,ask us".......I dare you,ask them today...LOL....
Remember working at the stations during the supposed "gas shortage" in the early seventies...
Gas shot up to .40.9 cents a gal.....we had to allocate what people could purchase..some days 10 gallons,some days $5.00...
People were livid with us..$4.10 for 10 gallons...highway robbery...
We had lines more than a mile waiting...problem was...when we met the quota for the day,we had to cut them off....(were allowed only so many gallons for the month)had to cut off to stretch it to stay open all month...
Poor people had waited hours and got cut off....if the tires didn't make it onto the driveway...last car on...next one ..cut off.
We had guns pulled on us,threatened with physical violence...actual fist fights..got to the point ,we had to have the police there at cut off time...
I was the only one who had a full tank thru all that...LOL...locking gas caps became a big thing then..folks were stealing gas big time..
Yea Tom..at $1.00..remember people said thats it,they were going to stop driving...LOL
Remember before SElf serve...the "mini serve attempt...we pumped the gas but nothing else...little cheaper...
Those were the days...

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Let's start a new thread - I'll call it "Gas Station Memories" in the "open posting" spot. Let's see if we can dig up some neat old pics - the cars, gas wars, gasoline brand name changes, marketing - fun stuff.....

T

Response From Guest

WOW Tom...I can't believe the size of those cars...I thought crown vics were big. I wish I lived in a different climate, I'd just stick to my damn motorcycles (no offense to you fine car folks) and just have a beater pick up truck to haul crap around in.

And maybe I'd buy a kayak/corolla too : )

1994 Bonneville shaking

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From CMQ on 1994 Bonneville shaking

I have a 1994 Pontiac Bonneville with around 208,000 miles for a work car. A couple months ago it started shaking pretty bad from 40mph on up. It had a bad tire on the back with the belts coming through. I bought two new tires and had them put on the front and rotated two of the other ones to the back. Still didn't fix the problem. The shop I took it to said the back tires were pretty out of round so they rebalanced them. Still didn't fix the shake. I bought two more new tires and had them put in the back. It drove smooth for the first 30 miles or so and the shake came back. Sometimes there's hardly any shake to it, sometimes a little, and sometimes it feels like the tires are going to fly off the car. I can't feel the shake in the steering wheel but can definitely feel it under my seat when it does. To me it feels like it's something to do with the back end. I've poked my head under a couple different times and checked everything out. Nothing seems to be broken or missing, but I'm no car mechanic by any means. I had a friend of mine say maybe a wheel bearing. But I'm not sure on that either. Any advice on what to look for or tricks to identify the problem would be appreciated. Hopefully it's nothing too serious. I'd like to keep driving it for work but don't want to stick a bunch of money in it.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hmmm? You said you are not a mechanic so I take that, that you will be seeking help from a shop.

Something is wrong putting new tires on a bad rim(s) and tire places should be looking for that. You could have just a couple bad wheels. I'm getting tired to look it up but this probably has a hub for back wheel bearings non serviceable and if they are so or just one so bad you can get shaking out of them it's plain dangerous.

Any decent tech should be able to just lift each back wheel and spin them and feel for a bad bearing. No free play allowed.

There are other things that could cause shaking or an out of balance feel but you said it was noticed already and had an out-of round wheel balanced which achieves nothing if wheel and tires aren't true. You can balance a square for that matter.

Have to suggest getting this looked at by perhaps another place or tech to be safe and save new tires from wearing into a wheel problem if so,

T

Response From CMQ

I also forgot to mention it only shakes when I'm accelerating or have my foot on the pedal. If I let off and coast the shake is non-existent and if the cruise is on (very rarely use it) it doesn't shake except for hills and very minor shaking. The shaking also stops around 70mph on up. But the speed limit is 65mph so going 70 or over isn't really in my best interest and really not the speed I want to be going if it is something dangerous that's wrong. I'm not sure if this little bit of info would change any diagnosis.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Let's start over. This is now a load on engine/drivetrain issue more than likely not wheels or tires themselves. I was thrown off by you saying a rear tire was all screwed up and if not true it really or any of them wouldn't be exacerbated by load.

So now I suggest you check for motor mounts including transmission and all involved to hold engine in place which is rubber mounted so you don't feel it much
AND so it doesn't move to far as a unit.

That torque on engine is probably the source with FWD it's also stressing the exhaust system which must tolerate some forward backward tilting of motor.

You said you are NOT a mechanic so don't do or try anything you don't fully understand and can absolutely do safely!

You can just open hood and likely have a view of top parts of engine from driver's seat. This would be step one if alone. Just hold brake firmly, nothing around in front or rear of vehicle at all. Apply some power with gas pedal watching engine move in both forward and reverse. It will move some but not too much and you probably wouldn't know off hand but might feel it when you let go of power to gas pedal. DO NOT OVERDO IT!

Next requires someone else to do that while another watches the mounts - never stand in front of a vehicle for that trick!!!!

This should be quick and easy for a tech to just do while you wait to at least rule it out or point out that they are bad. If and repeat IF this is the issue it wouldn't be noticed just idling or no load on engine in most cases. If mounts to subframe which are rubber also are all rusted out or visible issues it could be a real problem.

This could still be something else completely but now with your description is the most likely are for the problem,

T

(edit) HT is right also. Could be a CV joint, inner as outer ones would show when steering more likely)

Response From CMQ Top Rated Answer

Turns out it was a bad cv joint. Had both replaced a few days ago. Rides like a Cadillac now. Except now the motor seems to sputter. While I'm accelerating it will cut out a little bit and the tach will bounce up and down a bit. It shifts fine and all of the other gauges are fine. It seems to run perfectly fine when it's cold in the morning but once I drive 10-15 miles it starts doing the cutting out. I can't remember for sure but I had an O2 censor replaced a few years ago and it seems like this is similar to that. Or maybe bad plugs or catalytic converter or maybe I'm completely off on all guesses?

Response From Hammer Time

Closing this question as solved.

If you need help with other issues, then start a new question for that please

Response From Hammer Time

That sounds like a bad inner C/V joint.

2003 Sierra Chirping and Clunking when stopping and taking off.

Showing 2 out of 46 Posts | Show 44 Hidden Posts
Question From MarineGrunt on 2003 Sierra Chirping and Clunking when stopping and taking off.

Hope everyone is doing well. I still haven't gotten around to the Venture's transmission but plan on keeping it and getting it rebuilt. It's gonna get put off a little bit longer.

I just bought a 2003 GMC Sierra 1/2 ton ext. cab 4x4. It only has 80k on it. I got one heck of a deal on it. I just wish it had the 5.3 instead of the 4.8. The only issues it has is the service air bag light stays on and a problem with something in the rear drive line. When taking off or stopping there is a loud "chirping" noise. It just chirps once or twice everytime I start or stop. It almost feels like there is some slack in the drive shaft back there. You can just feel it.The guy I bought the truck from said he took it to the dealership and they said the rear wheel bearings were offset. (never heard of that one) They said it was causing the gears in the diff to move or something like that. I just don't see it but I haven't messed with rear ends that much. (I'm sure I'll get some wise cracks over that one) I did come across some info about a nickel plated slip yoke. Has anyone ever done this repair? If so, did it fix the problem? Any other ideas before I start tearing into it?

Thanks in advance for the replies. I don't know what I'd do without this forum!

Response From Hammer Time

Look it over good for any metal on metal grounding out in things like u-joints, trans mount, loose yoke, suspension arms, exhaust movement, etc.

PS, does this have an aluminum driveshaft?

Response From MarineGrunt

Thanks for the reply. Yes, it does have an aluminum driveshaft. I'm gonna take it off to my buddy's farm this weekend and put it on the hoist.

I googled the symptoms and there seem to be many others with the exact same thing. For most it ended up being too much slack in the slip yoke. There were some who pulled the driveshaft, put one of.those rubber bouncy balls in the rear slot of the transfer case and then reinstalled the shaft. It fixed their problem! I'd be too afraid of that rubber ball breaking up and ending up with chunks of rubber in the t case. Have you ever heard of anyone doing this? I'm going to fix it right but just curious. The things people.come up with.

Response From Hammer Time

That driveshaft consists of 2 pieces. It has an inner shaft that I have seen become unattached from the outer and make a chirping noise every time it is put in gear.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Watching this and now with HT's note I think this driveshaft is the inner/outer casing with rubber like motor mount or harmonic balancer rubber to dampen shock and vibrations. Can't imagine quite how but they are sold as "reman" shafts - just know the exact length.

If all this then I'm guessing that rubber isolation has let loose and shaft inner and outer can turn but only so far and bet you could see that (careful of course) just shifting forward to back with helper with shaft indexed that it didn't just re-center well or at all such that it would be able to both clunk and give that chirp of rubber squeaking against one of the shaft parts it is still adhered to.

Quick check showed whole replacement was about $300 w new u-joints. The basic idea isn't new. Haven't noted one chirping away or continued clunking if so and all guessing is that would move in your hands, vehicle not even running, in park just twisting on shaft watching??

T

Response From Hammer Time

I've never cut one open to see what is actually inside but I have changed a couple for a chirping noise that we were able to track down to the shaft as the source of the noise.

Response From MarineGrunt

It doesn't chirp when it's put into gear. It only chirps when you stop. It's only one chirp each stop and one chirp each takeoff. So, just one quick chirp. When I say "when you stop" I mean the last split second before the truck comes to a complete stop. It's not when you're slowing down but at about the same time the truck stops. It doesn't chirp at all while moving except right when you take off. It's like you feel the "slack" when you take off and it's followed by one "chirp". It's almost like it chirps when there is, what's the word I'm looking for, torque(?) on the rear components. If I come to a rolling stop and take off a split second before coming to a complete stop it you don't hear the chirp or feel a clunk. You only feel the "slack" when there's "torque". Hope that all makes sense. If it were the rubber inside the driveshaft would it do it more than what was explained above?

I did decide to take it in to the dealership yesterday to have the diagnose the problem. I talked to the mechanic and said it's just normal wear and could be a combination of everything in the rear end causing it. He said not to worry about it and keep driving it. With the "chirping" noise it's making it's hard not to worry about it. He said he dropped the driveshaft where it attaches to the diff and everything feels fine with the driveshaft.

I went ahead and picked up a diff kit that has the pinion and carrier bearings. I also picked up the rear u joint. I figure I'll start there and see what happens. Have to head out of state to see the sister in laws new baby so I'm not sure how soon I will get to it. I've never messed with pinion or carrier bearings. Is it something I should be able to do? The kit also came with shims. I've got a buddy who can give me a hand if you think I'll need some help.

Thanks!

Response From nickwarner

You'll need a pinion depth gauge, a hydraulic press, a dial indicator and a torque wrench that can read in inch pounds as torque is applied to it. Its not a simple swap like a wheel bearing, as the correct pinion depth, pinion bearing preload, carrier bearing preload and backlash (the depth of engagement between the ring and pinion gear teeth) must be correct to the .000 of an inch. If it was a carrier bearing or pinion bearing it would make a growling that would steadily increase with speed and load, and would eventually chew the teeth off your ring and pinion gears (go boom at the worst possible time). I'd leave the guts of the carrier alone. If you want, pop off the rear cover and visually inspect the ring gear for damaged teeth. Just have some black RTV to seal the cover back up with and fresh gear lube to refill the diff.

On the upside things could be much worse. You could be doing the intake on a Venture.

Response From Discretesignals

He already has. Most be getting old and the memory is slipping, Nick.

http://autoforums.carjunky.com/Automotive_Repair_C1/General_Discussions_F5/2002_Venture_Overheating_and_Leaking_Coolant_P111840

Response From nickwarner

I do remember, all 3 pages in fact. Figured it would make this seem better in comparison to all the fun he had on the van.

Response From MarineGrunt

Ha! That does make me feel a little better! I talked to my buddy who's a mechanic for Altorfer Cat and he said he has rebuilt a few diffs so will have him give me a hand. From the sounds of it it seems like something I probably shouldn't tackle on my own especially since I've never really messed with it before. If the gears are in fact worn should I just pick up a used rear end or get a new one? Or, is it best to replace all of he guts?

Response From MarineGrunt

I changed the u joints, poured a little autotrak fluid on the slip yoke, and that took care of the chirp and "slack". I read that sometimes the slip yoke will kinda stick. I guess lubing it will sometimes help the problem for about a month so I should know soon if it was the u joints or the slip yoke.
I then decided to change the diff fluid. After pulling the cover and inspecting one of the gears has some chips on the tip of each tooth. It's the small gear that is on top on the inside of the cylinder deal. (Sorry for the poor explanation, don't know much about diffs) Can the gear be purchased separately or do you have to buy the whole kit? How difficult is it to change? If I replace the gears should I go ahead with carrier and pinion bearings?

Thanks!

Response From Hammer Time

Sounds like you're talking about the spider gears. The kind of damage you are describing indicates some serious issues and it likely has extensive damage. Short cutting this would be a big mistake.

Response From MarineGrunt

Thanks Hammer.....I definitely don't wanna shortcut. Could there be something besides the diff that caused this? What do you recommend? Do you think I should rebuild the diff or buy a used one? I have the kit for the carrier and pinion bearings already so would just have to buy the gears. I saw a kit online for around $250. I do have a buddy who has rebuilt diffs who will be able to help if need be.

This truck only has 80,000 miles and I got it for $4200 so I don't mind putting money into it. Used or rebuilt? What do you think? Any other recommendations? I will take it to a mechanic if that's what you think needs to be done.

Response From Hammer Time

Rebuilt is always better but it depends on what you can afford. I'll let DS take this. He can get more specific than me.

Response From MarineGrunt

Thanks to both of you....DS....yes, from looking at your picture I would say it does. The gear that has chips was in the area towards the top of the picture where that little squiggly line is but the gear on mine looks different. The teeth are point straight out. My diff looks a little different but i'm guessing the picture was to just show me the governor locking..um...thingy?

Thanks again....really appreciate the help.

Response From MarineGrunt

What do ya think DS? Should it be completely rebuilt or should I pick one up from the junk yard? Any idea what caused the chipped teeth? If I do rebuild is there anything else that should also be replaced at the same time such as wheel bearings, carrier bearings, pinion bearings, etc?

Thank you for your time!

Response From Hammer Time

All the bearings should be automatic in a rebuild.

Response From MarineGrunt

Thanks Double J...Ya know I read about that nickel plated slip yoke before I took it to the dealership for them to diagnose it. After they looked at the truck they said it was normal where and tear and could be multiple things causing it. I then spoke with the mechanic myself. I mentioned about the aftermarket nickel plated slip yoke and he said "nope, I checked the slip yoke and it was fine". I saw him pull the rear section of the driveshaft so I know he checked it. When I replaces the u joints the other day I also lubed the slip yoke which I've heard that will temporarily take care of it. I almost wish I would've waited on the lube just to see if the u joints took care of it. I kinda think it was the lube. I think after I take care of the diff I'll go ahead and replace the slip yoke so I don't have to worry about it. I heard the lube on the slip yoke only lasts about a month so I guess I could wait and see. I have to get the diff taken care of before I do anything. I'll probably take care of it next weekend.

One more question, how do I know what gears to buy? Is the rear end labeled somewhere?

Thanks!

Response From Double J

Way back in the beginning ,Well after the Big Bang and prior to the nickel plated Yoke,
The 'fix' per the TSB at the time was to lube it.
Mostly all of 'em came back for repeat 'lube jobs'.....(well all the ones under warranty did or ones that had prior repairs under warranty.)
Needless to say there were a lot of angry GM owners ( I'll bet that statement has never been said before,LOL)
Replace the Yoke or it'll be back.


Funny ,when a vehicle is under the parameters of the warranty how people get very angry and demand a fix,yada,yada,yada
But when its out of warranty and they have to pay,they have no problem 'living with it'
That wasnt directed at you

Response From MarineGrunt

Only problem with the pinion gauge is that I have to learn how to use it first!

Definitely getting the nickel plated slip yoke. I wouldn't have any idea about warranty issues due to the fact I've never owned a vehicle with less than 36,000 miles! I wouldn't know what to do with myself if I bought a vehicle that didn't need some sort of work done! It's amazing how much money you can save if you find a vehicle that just needs a few basic things done to it. The few things on this truck ended up being a little more than basic but I can deal with that considering what I paid for it.

Thanks for bringing up that slip yoke Double J...I read about it but then swept that idea under the rug after a GM mechanic told me the slip yoke was fine and it didn't need the nickel plated one. I did wonder if maybe GM mechanics were told to blame the issue on normal wear and tear since there are so many complaints about the chirp and clunk. I'm not one of those big conspiracy theory guys but it did cross my mind.

Response From Double J




I did wonder if maybe GM mechanics were told to blame the issue on normal wear and tear since there are so many complaints about the chirp and clunk. I'm not one of those big conspiracy theory guys but it did cross my mind.




No,not at all.

Contrary to popular belief, Dealers and Dealership mechanics arent out to rip people off,hide warranty info,string it along until its out of warranty.etc,etc.
As a matter of fact ,its quite the opposite.
I worked at GM Dealers,where we took a lot of pride in our work. I've seen GM do their fair share of Goodwill waranty repairs,plenty to those who didn't even have it coming.And not just the small stuff,engines,transmissions,etc.I can aver strongly that they do not instruct their mechanics/techs to do anything other that whats right,period!
They try very hard to keep their customers in that buying circle.
Of course there is always a stray butthole or two but thats certainly not the norm.
Rarely,but it does happen,you'll get a tech that doesnt want to do a particular job so he'll either not say anything or just say,no problem found

I'll tell you what does seem to get dealers a bad rap is they way that service work is dispatched.
The way that i like and seems to work the best is with one centralized dispatcher who deles out the work to all the techs.
One who has the knowledge which tech is the most qualified for a certain job.He also has to know when a job turns into more that the first tech he gave it to can handle ,pull it and get another guy on it

The other way that work gets dispatched is thru each service writer/advisor/consultant or whatever they call them this week.
Each writer has his/her own techs to use and a lot of times due to availability,the wrong guy will definitely get a job that he normally would not have in a properly dispatched shop.

I've worked in Independent shops,owned my own and worked at dealerships.
Over 45 years,never heard of anyone being told cover anything up.

Now GM is also smart with their money and likes to spend theirs they same way we like to spend our own.
But the General does have a heart of gold.

Response From MarineGrunt

That's really comforting to hear that. I've only used the dealership, or any shop, a handful of times and have never had any issues with them. I just kind of figured if little ole me had heard about the nickel plated slip yoke that the tech would've known. I mentioned it to him when I was talking to him afterwards and he kind of looked ag me like he had never heard of it. Like I said tho, I've never had any issues with them and I don't consider my last appointment to be an issue. Heck, maybe the u joints took care of the problem. I guess I'll know once that lube wears off although I might just go ahead and replace it now just so it's done.

Could that slip yoke issue have causes the damage to the diff?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

"Could that slip yoke issue have causes the damage to the diff?"

Long thread - sorry if already mentioned. Is this slip yoke an ordinary splined shaft just to allow the free length of shaft to adjust some to the assorted loads AND gets stuck/sticky from lube breaking down? If those type things wherever get stuck tight it would put forces on things not intended with assorted potential problems.

If the original fix that was temporary didn't last by just lubing it then I would think the area is way too subject to washing out the lube. If the upgraded parts solve this I think it would be very important. Slipping splined shafts have been in use for light years many had a grease fitting. I was always told now so long ago to NOT overdo greasing the greasable by grease gun types. I've also used insanely expensive Marine (as in boating) grade greases that just don't wash out so easily.

Simply have not had surprise problems even if there was a faulty design perhaps because of that. IDK? I really mean I don't know but haven't had a problem seeming so common with such things and if it was that simple it wouldn't have become apparently such an issue with these.

Sorry to poke my nose in but want to know what the exact permanant solution is and what prevents it and mostly prevent bigger problems.

Keep at it,

T

Response From MarineGrunt

Tom, I changed both u joints and lubed the slip yoke. That seemed to take care of it. After some replies it sounds like it was the lube that took care of it. I am going to replace the slip yoke with the nickel plate one so I will let you know the results. I have read that even with the nickel yoke that the problem sometimes returns. All we can do is try. The only place you can get it is through GM and costs close to $200! Ouch! I knew I was going to have to put some money into this truck so it doesn't hurt as much. It will be one nice truck once I'm finished.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I come from another planet sometimes - smile. With this crap and history of temp solutions and now a part with improved metal to solve it longer term I wonder if some kind of 'electrical galvanic corrosion' (sp??) something is attacking this spot? Does the metal of the differential show that it is grounded when tested with a test light as silly as running a long wire to test light to the metal of it? Test might be ok but might be intermittent ground. All thru vehicles ground straps are placed body to engine, even exhaust to body or frame and all thru as moving parts are frequently isolated by rubber parts, grease seals, mounts or grease itself.

For the waste of a few more bucks I'd consider putting a plain braided ground strap from differential to frame carefully placed out of any harm of heat or moving parts. Just a brain fart reason why this seems to be a common problem

Tom

Response From MarineGrunt

With all of the engineers GM has you would think they could figure it out. I'll tell you what, sometimes a simple brain fart idea and take care of the biggest problems! Once I get the new slip yoke and diff taken care I think I'll try your brain fart idea! You never know.

We are out of town right now and I'm chomping at the bit to get back home to get going on everything. Heck, I just want to get back home so I can figure out which rear end I have so I can start ordering parts!

DS may have already told me this, but I was browsing the net and came across an exploded view of a posi and I think it's the pinion gears that are chipped. Are these also called spider gears? Can all of these be replaced or do you have to buy the whole unit?

Thanks!

Response From Hammer Time

The pinion gear is the main shaft attached to the yoke and driveshaft. The spider gears are the small side gears in the cluster.
This picture is not a limited slip but still shows you the gears.

Response From MarineGrunt

Thanks for the picture HT. Spider gears it is. The gear that I have that is chipped is the smaller one on the right in the picture. I'm assuming that the smaller one right across from it is also chipped.

Response From MarineGrunt

Is there a way to tell what diff I have? I mean I know it's the 3.73 posi but I'm seeing "30 spline 8.5/8.6 inch" or "28 spline 7.5 inch" etc. I also see where some say 10 bolt, 12 bolt, etc. Do I have to pull the cover to count splines, bolt pattern, etc or is there another way to figure that out?

Thanks!

Response From Hammer Time

The RPO codes don't get into that much detail. Thew bolt count is just counting the bolts on the back cover. You would have to pull the yoke off to count the splines and you would have to removed the ring gear to measure it.

Maybe DS has a good way to ID it. I don't do a lot of them.

Response From MarineGrunt

Thanks HT...that definitely helps to get me going in the right direction. I wonder if calling the dealership could help. I just hate to call and ask for information if I'm not going to have them do the work.

Response From Discretesignals

If you buying parts from them, they won't mind.
Did your friend have a look at it yet?

I'm just still curious why you want to overhaul the entire rear end for a chipped spider. The ring and pinion are probably still good if your backlash is within specifications.

You'll have to remove the carrier to get the spiders and you can do your carrier bearing inspection then. If you find you have bearings or races with problems, then you remove the pinion and inspect its races and bearings. If the pinion bearings are bad, they usually make grinding noises while driving that can be pinpointed with a mechanic's stethoscope.

Most of the time ring and pinions go bad from running with no fluid or they just become slap worn out which isn't very common.

If you really want to replace the spider gears or bearings, I suggest you go dealer. I personally ran into a couple of rear end jobs where the aftermarket bearing tolerances where different and threw off the contact pattern with makes it a nightmare because you basically have to set up the rear end from scratch.

Response From Hammer Time

He's doing it because I advised him to. Once those chips and grit start floating around, none of the bearings can be trusted and bearing are all I was referring to when I advised to go through it.

Response From MarineGrunt

I figured it's something that should be done. They are some pretty big chips. I'm not hearing any noises tho and it feels fine while driving. Maybe I'll drop the cover and take some pictures to post so I can see what everyone thinks. I just kind of assumed they needed replaced.

My buddy is out of town for another 3 weeks so if it does need done I'll either have to wait or attempt it myself. I looked at the steps on alldata and it looks like something I could possibly do. I do realize that things always look easier on paper tho.

Hopefully I can get some pictures up tomorrow. I'd appreciate it if you guys would take a look. I trust all the advice I get here and it would make me feel better knowing you see what I see.

Thanks for all the help and advice.

Response From Hammer Time

Do you have a press with all the adapters? All those bearings are pressed.

Response From MarineGrunt

My buddy has a press. I think I'm just gonna wait until he gets home and take care of it all then. I'd assume just rebuild the whole diff and be done with it. I personally can't say for sure but with the way the spider gears look it's just a matter of time. Some of the teeth are missing a whole chunk out of the center so not so sure I should've called them chips. I'll see what kind of pictures I can take. If not tomorrow hopefully Friday.

Thanks Hammer

Response From Tom Greenleaf

It's not GM specific but huge as they are they absolutely have made MONSTER errors that some untold # of people signed off as all OK and things got produced by the zillions all wrong. It happens.

I just find that repeat issues with something so freaking basic could easily have something that stupid that all the CAD/CAM pin-heads missed and can't figure out unless a computer warning comes shooting out at them!

I'm in a rust/corrosion capitol of the world with road salts in heavy use and Atlantic Ocean as our boating playground, salt water of course. Tons of salt water boating and marine repair under my belt. Amazing the lengths a boat/yacht goes thru guarding itself from this I'll call it galvanic corrosion when just minor electrical charges get to metals need canceling that effect. Boats routinely use sacrificial zincs all over the place for submerged metals that if not maintained monster yacht or smaller boat's drive and steering gear is at wild risk without paying attention.


Sorry to beat this up but my primary car and all others like it has a factory ground strap at end hanger of tailpipe - all OE. One thing you can count on is that no car maker spends a dime on something you don't see if there wasn't a good reason!

Still out there and noted is simple trailer wiring with a specific ground wire to a metal trailer on a metal ball isn't enough for sustained ground for the simplest lighting for a brush trailer. I see them blinking away as the ball and recieving hitch loses momentary contact not involved with this corrosion lube issue but proves that things need to make the full loop from and back to battery. Silly things get overlooked. Some just break that should be there and still work for testing so don't catch notice so easily.

Stuff happens,

T

Response From Discretesignals

I imagine if the slip yoke was binding and caused pressure to be put onto the pinion flange, it could burn up the outer pinion bearing. I don't see it damaging spider gears though. Then you would think it would also cause transmission problems because it would take the end play out of the transmission internally components.

Ford truck have that problem too. They actually have a TSB that states to put PTFE grease on the splines.

Response From nickwarner

Teamwork is paying off it seems. I think J is onto your chirp fix, and you had another issue about to rear its head that you didn't know about. As HT said, all bearings must go. I do the wheel bearings as well because pieces that have chipped off are suspended in the oil and travel all over, just like in an engine. You've got a friend who does these a lot and will have the right tools. Rebuilding a rear end isn't hard if you know what you're doing, and with your appetite for learning I'm sure you'll be watching him do it and explain it to you. If you get a junkyard rear end you'd be rolling the dice. With a friend helping you its not costing you the labor of a regular shop, nor the parts markup and you'd be better off investing in the rebuild and never worrying about it again. When all is said and done fill it up with a quality synthetic gear lube and drive it. There is no break-in period on a rear end like a rebuilt engine would have.

Response From MarineGrunt

Thanks Nick....this forum is great! Are all rear ends the same on 2003 Gmc Sierra 1500with ext. Cab 4x4 4.8? Just wondering how to figure out which gear kit I need.

Response From Discretesignals

I'm just surprised that this rear end is worn out enough already to warrant an overhaul. When carrier bearings or pinion bearings go bad, you usually hear grinding or droning noises. How many Dodge Ram Pickups with corporate rear ends have you seen whining going down the road...lol. When ring and pinion gears wear out you get excessive backlash. Excessive backlash causes the clunking noises when you put it into gear. You can check for excessive back lash with a dial indicator. You can also check the tooth contact pattern with persian blue.

When you start replacing ring and pinion sets, you have to set it up using special tools to determine pinion depth. Then there is the hassle of carrier bearing preload and you need special shims because you can't reuse the cast iron ones that come in the rear end from the factory. Setting up rear ends is an art and I don't know too many people that do it correctly.

If it were my rear end, I would definitely make checks to be sure it is worn out. Some differential pinion/side (spider) gear chipping at the edges is normal. if it was a tooth chipped off, heavy scoring, or cracked, it is definitely time for replacement. Has your friend that does rear end work looked it? If you really want to replace pinion and side gears in the differential, I am sure you can order them from the dealer. I personally haven't had a gov lock apart before, but you really should get the service information and review it.

Response From MarineGrunt

Thanks DS....when driving it feels fine. The clunking and chirping.went away after I replaces.the u joints and lubes the slip yoke. My buddy has not looked at it yet. I called him this morning and he's gonna be out of town for a month for some training. When we get home Tuesday maybe I'll see if I can get a good picture and post it. I'm not so sure you'd call them chips but rather chunks. Maybe 1/8"-3/16" or so. They are not tiny by any means. I do have a pinion depth gauge that I got when my grandpa passed away but never have used it. I think I will take your advice by reviewing the service manual and see if it's something I think I can at least attempt. Worst case scenario is that I'd have to wait for my buddy to get back in town or tow it to a shop. Actually, worst case is I screw something up and I ruin the new gears I put in. I'm always up for a challenge so we will see. Time to do some reviewing.

Hope everyone has a great weekend.

Response From Hammer Time

I do have a pinion depth gauge

Man, I don't even have one of them!!!!!

Response From Double J Top Rated Answer

There is a TSB on the noise

Clunk, Bump or Squawk when Vehicle Comes to Complete Stop or Accelerating from Complete Stop or Accelerating from Complete Stop (Replace Rear Drive Shaft Nickel-Plated Slip Yoke) #01-04-17-004B - (Jan 5, 2005)

1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade (Old Style)

2002-2004 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT

2003-2004 Cadillac Escalade ESV

1996-1999 Chevrolet 1500 Series Extended Cab Short Box Pickup (Old Style)

1996-1999 Chevrolet 1500 Series Regular Cab Pickup and Utility Models (Old Style)

1999-2002 Chevrolet Silverado Extended Cab Short Box (New Style)

1999-2004 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Series Regular Cab (New Style)

2000-2004 Chevrolet 1500 Series Avalanche, Suburban and Tahoe

2001-2004 Chevrolet Silverado 2500/3500 Series Regular Cab with Long Bed or Extended Cab (New Style)

2001-2004 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 Series Crew Cab, Short Box (New Style)

1996-1999 GMC 1500 Series Extended Cab Short Box Pickup (Old Style)

1996-1999 GMC 1500 Series Regular Cab Pickup and Utility Models (Old Style)

1999-2002 GMC Sierra Extended Cab Short Box (New Style)

1999-2004 GMC Sierra 1500 Series Regular Cab (New Style)

2000-2004 GMC 1500 Series Yukon, Yukon XL

2001-2004 GMC Sierra 2500/3500 Series Regular Cab with Long Bed or Extended Cab (New Style)

2001-2004 GMC Sierra 2500 Series Crew Cab, Short Box (New Style)

2003-2005 HUMMER H2

with Four Wheel Drive (4WD) or All Wheel Drive (AWD) and One-Piece Propeller Shaft ONLY

This bulletin is being revised to add Cadillac Escalade (Old Style) and HUMMER H2 to the Models section. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-04-17-004A (Section 04 -- Driveline/Axle).

Condition

Some customers may comment on a clunk, bump or squawk noise when the vehicle comes to a stop or when accelerating from a complete stop.

Cause

A slip/stick condition between the transfer case output shaft and the driveshaft slip yoke may cause this condition.

Diagnostic Tips

There are several resources in the electronic Service Information System which can provide the technician with information on diagnosis and repair of clunk conditions, and fix the customer's vehicle right the first time without unnecessary parts replacement. Some of the documents available in SI include:
• Symptoms - Propeller Shaft (SI Document ID #697266)
• Knock or Clunk Noise (SI Document ID #697290)
• Rear Drive Axle Noises (SI Document ID #700580)
• Launch Shudder/Vibration on Acceleration (Replace Propeller Shaft and Install a New Pinion Flange/Seal), Bulletin #02-04-17-001
• Information on 2-3 Upshift or 3-2 Downshift Clunk Noise, Bulletin #01-07-30-042
• Driveline Clunk When Stopping (Reprogram Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Bulletin #03-07-30-028

Correction

Replace the rear drive shaft slip yoke with a new nickel-plated slip yoke. See the parts table below.

Parts

12479383 Yoke Asm., Prop Shf Slip (without u-joint) , Nickel Plated. Must Be Ordered With U-Joint Kit P/N 12479126 - 4WD/AWD 1500 Series Suburban, Avalanche, Yukon XL, Escalade EXT, Escalade ESV with AWD (New Style)

12479126 U Joint Kit: 4WD 1500 Series Suburban, Avalanche, Yukon XL) (Escalade EXT, Escalade ESV with AWD (New Style)

Response From Discretesignals

Does this have governor locking differential?