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We stock Wheel Bearing parts for most Buick models, including Apollo, Centurion, Century, Commercial Chassis, Electra, Encore, Estate Wagon, GS, GS 455, Invicta, LeSabre, Opel, Rainier, Regal, Riviera, Roadmaster, Skyhawk, Skylark, Sportwagon.

Timken
1980 Buick Skyhawk Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-2CD356A    5707  New

Qty:
$16.31
Timken Wheel Bearing  Rear
  • Cylindrical Roller Bearing
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1980 - Buick Skyhawk RWD Rear
Timken
1975 Buick LeSabre Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-48EB0E0    6408  New

Qty:
$17.02
Timken Wheel Bearing  Rear
  • Cylindrical Roller Bearing
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1975 - Buick LeSabre RWD Rear
Timken
1977 Buick Regal Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-2CD356A    5707  New

Qty:
$16.31
Timken Wheel Bearing  Rear
  • Cylindrical Roller Bearing
  • Chevy C Axle - 8.5 in. Ring Gear
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1977 - Buick Regal RWD Rear
Timken
1974 Buick Regal Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-48EB0E0    6408  New

Qty:
$17.02
Timken Wheel Bearing  Rear
  • Cylindrical Roller Bearing
  • Pontiac P Axle
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1974 - Buick Regal RWD Rear
Timken
1973 Buick Regal Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-2CD356A    5707  New

Qty:
$16.31
Timken Wheel Bearing  Rear
  • Cylindrical Roller Bearing
  • C, G, K, W, Axle
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1973 - Buick Regal RWD Rear
Timken
1970 Buick Skylark Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-2CD356A    5707  New

Qty:
$16.31
Timken Wheel Bearing  Rear
  • Cylindrical Roller Bearing
  • 12 Bolt Housing Cover
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1970 - Buick Skylark RWD Rear
Timken
1976 Buick Regal Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-48EB0E0    6408  New

Qty:
$17.02
Timken Wheel Bearing  Rear
  • Cylindrical Roller Bearing
  • 8.88 in. Ring Gear
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1976 - Buick Regal RWD Rear
Timken
1981 Buick LeSabre Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-2CD356A    5707  New

Qty:
$16.31
Timken Wheel Bearing  Rear
  • Cylindrical Roller Bearing
  • Chevrolet C Axle - 7.5 in., 8.5 in.,8.75 in. Ring Gear
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1981 - Buick LeSabre RWD Rear
Timken
1981 Buick Electra Wheel Bearing - Rear Timken

P311-2CD356A    5707  New

Qty:
$16.31
Timken Wheel Bearing  Rear
  • Cylindrical Roller Bearing
  • Chevrolet C Axle - 7.5 in., 8.5 in. Ring Gear
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Position
1981 - Buick Electra RWD Rear
Timken
1996 Buick Roadmaster Wheel Bearing - Rear Inner Timken

P311-2CD356A    5707  New

Qty:
$16.31
Timken Wheel Bearing  Rear Inner
  • Cylindrical Roller Bearing
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Rear Inner
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Drive Type Position
1996 - Buick Roadmaster Sedan RWD Rear Inner

Latest Buick Repair and Wheel Bearing Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1999 buick lasabre has grinding noise truning left

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Guest on 1999 buick lasabre has grinding noise truning left

I have a 1999 Buick Lasabre making a grinding noise when I turn left only. When I turn right or go straight I hear nothing. help please
jg

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Likely a bad CV joint or wheel bearing, T

91 buick regal vibrates mid-high speeds

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From buick112 on 91 buick regal vibrates mid-high speeds

year: 1991
make: buick
model: Regal custom
engine size: 3.8
mileage: currently sitting at 96813. odometer does not work though. Stopped working shortly after i bought it around january 2010.

while driving, i get up to just under 30mph and the car starts vibrating. its just a constant humming noise. just over 30mph it dies down a little and starts up again at about 38. At 45, it dies down again. At 60+ it starts back up. whenever i turn to the left a little the sound goes completely away and when i turn to the right it gets worse a lil. my stearing wheel is also a lil off. when im going strait, the stearing wheel is turned to the right about 10 degrees.

the issue started up right after my 2 right tires got slashed. i tried to pull out of my driveway not realizing my tires were flat and didnt get very far. I replaced the tires and it started doing this.

i took the car to a shop and they told me it was my wheel bearings. i ask a friend who was a mechanic and he said that if it were the wheel bearings, my car would be shaking rather than vibrating. i also dont think it is the wheel bearings cause the sound goes away when i turn.

hoping to get another opinion on it.

Response From zmame Top Rated Answer

Noise issue changing right to left defintly sounds like a bearing issue. If your wheel is off center you more then likely bent a component from impact. Whole front end should be inspected and then put on a allignment machine. If your toe is out it may be cupping your tires too and causing tire noise.

Fix whats obviously wrong first and go from there.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Generally wheel bearings will be worse or better with load like steering left and right going along,

T

2001 Regal sounds like wheel bearings?

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From mammal40 on 2001 Regal sounds like wheel bearings?

My 2001 Buick Regal just started making a noise that sounds like a bad wheel bearing. It's a loud humming noise. It does it at all speeds and sounds faster and louder as you go faster, and there is no sound at a stop. I can not tell where it is coming from. I checked all four wheels and one does not feel hotter than the others (I thought I remembered doing this to check for wheel bearings when I was a kid). A while ago it started shifting harder than usual when warmed up, but the sound is there when coasting in neutral as well. It has 130,000 miles, new brakes on the front and I am about to do the rears.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Check the wheel bearings with the wheels up and spin them by hand. Of course you need to put it in neutral for the fronts.

Trans is probably a separate issue.

A bad bearing might not heat up until it's pretty bad,

T

'94 Buick LeSabre front-end Vibration

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From Slickshades99 on '94 Buick LeSabre front-end Vibration

Hi all,

I have a 1994 Buick LeSabre Custom with a 3800 V6 and 120k miles. My problem is a vibration that is coming from the front-end. A little more specific, the front driver side. I have new tires and of course they were balanced on the wheel before they were mounted. I had the vibration before I got the new tires.

The vibration is slight but noticeable when I am up to highway speeds (55 - 65 mph) but gets worse when I apply the brakes. I am thinking the rotors may be warped because I have had them machined once and I have braked hard a couple times. They might have got too hot and warped. Could they be warped enough to where they vibrate just from high-speed rotation?

I also thought about the wheel bearing assembly but wouldn't I hear a roaring noise if that was going bad?

The CV axles don't clunk or make noise and the boots are dry and far as I can tell crack free.

I haven't yet checked any chassis pieces for wear or damage, that is on my list though. I am spending my spring break doctoring my car :-/

Any feedback would be much appreciated.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Thoughts on that:

Brake could be the issue. 1. If rotor is that warped it would shake a bit or more when applied. Also - rust can build up between rotor and hub such that rotor can't set true to hub. Spin wheel while hoisted and watch rim for trueness. If off, rotate/swap with a good one and see if problem follows wheel or location. If known good rim is untrue at the suspect location brake hub, bearing issue (they usually make noise first but not a promise on that) should be fixed, replaced,

T

Response From Slickshades99

Thanks for the advice.

I did go out, jacked it up, and took the wheel off to see if I could find anything strange.

I did, however, grab the wheel while the car was up and shake it. The steering was locked into place. The wheel and rotor moved a little when I did this. The noise it made sounded akin to the thumping noise I hear going down the road. Makes me wonder about the bearing.

I grabbed a wheel on the other side and tried to shake it....wouldn't budge.

Also, the holes on my rotor were nearly a 1/4" bigger than the wheel studs. There's something not right about that to me.

I am just trying to pinpoint this problem because I don't want it to get worse. I am also trying to get my car to last me through the rest of college.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK: The holes for the studs thru the rotor are bigger but 1/4 inch seems excessive. Know that the lug nuts are actually holding the rotor to the hub/wheel bearing which is a sealed unit. Those bearings don't usually show freeplay so much as make noise like growling, roughness on turns to begin with but certainly can fail beyond that.

You need to take the caliper off to remove the rotor and a bracket on some to clear out debris if any that could be in between hub and rotor if that's the issue at all. It's common if rusty and will allow wobble like an untrue wheel which it becomes and tire can wear into that pattern if not too noticeable AND can give a false sense that wheel lugs are actually tightened enough.

Checking front end parts is a procedure of what can move while hoisted from what. When in doubt get help to verify parts are safe. There's bearing, ball joint, out and inner tie rods and the strut. Imperfections of the wheel and tire will be exacerbated by worn parts/bad parts and those can cause the imperfections of the tire.

This is safety stuff so don't be afraid to get some hands on help when unsure how to test or check items out,

T

Response From Slickshades99

I've been too poor and too busy to get any work done lately. Plus, I am still doing some research on the matter. It didn't occur to me to get on YouTube and look up some of the symptoms I am having with my car. It would have been helpful with my last post.

This is what the affected wheel does with me:



Mine is not that bad but it is loose.

I am job searching for the summer. I have an interview with AutoZone Saturday. I am going to feel weird not working at my beloved NAPA but the hours are better (if I get to work there).

I am going to save up and go home to where I know some trustworthy folks at a shop and get a hands on professional opinion...and possibly a new wheel bearing assembly.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

I don't necessarily agree with that video's suggestions or completeness. A wheel bearing on this type shouldn't have free-play at all or would be about to fall off! One (IMO) doesn't mean the other has to be replaced either as suggested there but checking it would be in order.

By the time a wheel bearing (hub assembly on this car) is that bad it's dangerous. Most wheel bearings are a noise first made worse when steering one way vs the other and not so much a vibration but noise.

Vibration could be anything that moves, tire, wheel brake parts dragging or warped - other surprises possible. Worn joints in front end don't make vibrations alone but do make them or any feel that much worse. It's not prudent to wait to find out exactly what that is.

Good luck with the job hunt,

T

Front end ibration

Showing 3 out of 8 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From heinz57 on Front end ibration

Have a 93 Buick Skylark 3.3 approx 160,000 miles. Developed a steering wheel vibration at speeds over 20 mph when turning to the left only, going straight or turning right causes no vibration. Have checked motor mounts, wheel bearings, struts, ball joints, tie rod ends, bushings and cv boots. I do have a seal leak at right side of the transaxel but everything else checks out ok. Wandering if I have a bad inner cv joint and best way to check it.

Response From Hammer Time

Exactly how did you go about checking the wheel bearings?

Response From heinz57

Thanks for the response. Jacked up car and did the 12 6 and 9 3 and no movement.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

That will never work here. These are hub assemblies and rarely show any movement. Wheel bearings are still a real possibility.

Response From heinz57

So there must be a way to check the wheel bearing. I have no noise coming from the wheels. Have replaced hub assembly before on my other car but could tell bearing was bad from noise. What other way can I check the bearing?

Response From Hammer Time

But you do have a noise. You just don't know where it's coming from. Hub bearings are not easy things to diagnose simply because until they are totally shredded, they only make noise with the weight of the car on them so you have a real hard time hearing them when the weight is off the wheel.

Response From heinz57

So what do you recommend? Started this thread so I would not be spending money replacing parts without knowing for sure where my problem was.

Response From Hammer Time

I'm afraid the Internet is not the best way to look for a noise solution. This is the type of problem that is recognized by a trained ear with years of experience. I suggest you get some opinions from some reliable local shops. We can advise on on facts and procedures but we can't hear noises so we can't be much help there.