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1986 Toyota Tercel Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly - Rear NSK

P311-012F7F2    28BWK12  New

In Stock & Ready to Ship
NSK Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly  Rear
  • Product Attributes:
    • Feature 1: Premium Oe Technology - Vehicle Specific Fit-form And Performance
    • Feature 2: Long Life Low Friction Bearing - Superfinished Precision Matched Bearing Raceway
    • Feature 3: Water And Contamination Resistant - Advanced Multi-lip Seal Technology
    • Feature 4: Zero Maintenance - Sealed For Life Design With Premium All Weather Grease
    • Generation: 2
    • Hub Pilot Diameter: 65
    • Inside Diameter: 28
    • Width, Outer Race: 52
  • NSK is a global leader in the development of advanced rolling bearing products. NSK is a worldwide manufacturing partner to the top automobile manufacturers and suppliers, with a focus on improved bearing life and increased operating performance in the most demanding conditions.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: NSK
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle BrakeABS Drive Type Position
1986 - Toyota Tercel Non-ABS FWD Rear

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Service Stability System

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From FatGuyinAZ on Service Stability System

Year of vehicle: 2000
Make of vehicle: Buick
Model of vehicle: Park Avenue
Just recently I starting having an issue with the Service Stability System light coming on. I have associated this light with a braking issue that also just started. Intermittently when braking and starting a turn to the right there is a nasty grinding noise, which sounds like it's coming from the brakes. It will stop once I start to accelerate and pull out of the turn. I took the vehicle into the Buick dealer for service. They replaced the brakes, calibers were reworked, etc. I was told it was fixed but within a day it did it again. I took the vehicle back to the shop and this time they replaced a sensor they said was bad. Now according to what I have read on various places on the web, if a sensor is bad then not only will the Service Stability System light go on, but the ABS light will go on as well as the Traction Off light. Neither of these came on so now I am wondering if the sensor was really bad?

The vehicle is still having the same problems and yesterday it was bad enough that when I released the brake and started to press on the gas (turning to the right) the grinding noise did NOT go away and it actually kept slowing the vehicle down. I had to jerk the wheel to the left before whatever was causing this problem would let loose and I could drive away.
The dealership repair shop has NO clue what is going on. Heck, they didn't even know what t he Service Stability System light was for?
Can anyone shed some light on my problem?
Thank you,
aka Fat Guy

Response From DanD

This does really sound strange; without being there to feel & hear the problem; I’m thinking a wheel bearing might be beginning to fail.
But if the dealership replace a wheel speed sensor (if that’s the sensor they replaced); that should have included the wheel bearing; they are usually sold/serviced as an assembly?
What do you other guys think?


Response From Tom Greenleaf

?? Is this grind like a metalic grind or like ABS action feelings? Wheel bearing would be suspect on my list, as an assembly with sensor as Dan suggested and I would think would show some evidence. A caliper/brake flex hose might be at fault by not allowing brake pressure to release confusing the systems of ABS and this stability control - however that's designed to work??


Response From FatGuyinAZ

It's a grind like metal to metal. The 1st thought I had when I heard it was a vehicle that had NO front brake disc left and it was metal on metal. Of course this isn't what it is since we've had all the brakes replaced, calipers reworked, etc.

This only happens intermittently. Picture yourself driving along and everything is fine. Then you must make a right turn up ahead so you start to slow down. You apply the brakes (still all is fine) and once you start the turn to the right the grinding sound starts. Normally, when you release the brake during the right turn the sound and vibration will stop. It was just this last time it happened it did not stop when I released the brake. It even continued to hold when I pressed on the gas. My 1st reaction was to jerk the wheel slightly to the left then back again to the right and it released.

Strange part is it doesn't always happen. I would say it's about 2 times out of 50 it will happen when I start a turn to the right while braking.

The sensor that was replaced was a steering sensor. Least that is what I was told by the Buick repair shop.

I like the wheel bearing so I have written this down on my list of suspects for the mechanic. It's very difficult to change to a different Buick mechanic. We are in the middle of nowhere, USA and this is the only Buick mechanic service around for 100's of miles.

I would like to thank you both for your information. I will continue to watch and hope for more replies with more information. The more the better.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Like Dan said right off the bat that this is tough without being there and feeling this. Add that to it wouldn't misbave for your techs and these type things require lots of input from you to come up with the best guess. We can never be sure except be sure I don't want to waste your money but I'm now feeling strongly this is a wheel bearing with an unusual failure.

I like you "picture the scene" way to describe it. I do that too and too much perhaps here. Ok: Picture these front wheel bearing are a hub assembly - not serviced for just the bearing like other applications. Never saw one totally exploded but it is now doubt a center race, with probably long barrel bearings (perhaps like pencil size perfect barrels to exact length) all around the race and in contact with the outer race which may be the hub machined or a pressed in race itself. The barrels or if they are ball type would be restricted by the races not to have in-out lash as in if you pushed straight in on the wheel toward center or pulled out on it. When just rolling alone happily those limits aren't taxed. When braking or turning that comes into play and I'm guessing they allow motion where there should be NONE in and out. Brakes are confused, noise, any sensors confused - this would add up to the likely common denominator but you may not be strong enough to get this to do this by hand as it doesn't even happen all the time under the stresses of being driven according to you.

At this point you, Dan and I have just mentioned and hear from you more than the shop that tried and found nothing. I'd take the comments with you as the possibility and with this so far I'd be just tossing that bearing and really cross my fingers that I wasn't wrong. Note:!! Sometimes when you hear the problem on the right it somehow was caused by something on the left!! Arggh!! I'd bet there is some evidence of brake parts that rubbed on a spindle/calipter holding part now on the bad side. Chances of both sides having a problem is very rare IMO.

So far I'm not suspecting an outer CV joint by the symptoms as I don't find those to self correct for a while with their common problems.

It is a strange problem. Nobody is to blame. I'll suggest that taking care of this now if in fact it is what I think could save some crazy damage or worse an accident if it could give out all at once - who knows on that??

It's the weekend here now. Don't know if Dan will catch this right away or what. Know that Dan is a FIVE star tech and I only have a clever Kitty who just tells me what to type in but she's seen some strange problems

Please let us know what does fix this. Great for archives if nothing else,

(added on edit) I might call this "stubborn barrel/pressed in bearing end lash" but do not suggest to absolutely tell techs what IS wrong but that you feel it's a possiblility. Let them decide with the observations you have witnessed that they so far have not.

Response From FatGuyinAZ

Thanks guys. I am taking the car to the shop in about an hour. I have printed up all these suggestions to share with the mechanics in hopes they will help. It may be in the shop for a while. I will most definitely share with you the results when the car it finished.