Finish Selecting Your Vehicle to Shop For Your Water Pump

Choose a Year for your Subaru 's Water Pump

  • 2019
  • 2018
  • 2017
  • 2016
  • 2015
  • 2014
  • 2013
  • 2012
  • 2011
  • 2010
  • 2009
  • 2008
  • 2007
  • 2006
  • 2005
  • 2004
  • 2003
  • 2002
  • 2001
  • 2000
  • 1999
  • 1998
  • 1997
  • 1996
  • 1995
  • 1994
  • 1993
  • 1992
  • 1991
  • 1990
  • 1989
  • 1988
  • 1987
  • 1986
  • 1985
  • 1984
  • 1983
  • 1982
  • 1981
  • 1980
  • 1979
  • 1978
  • 1977
  • 1976
  • 1975
  • 1974
  • 1973
  • 1972
Show More Years

Shop By Brand

The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • AISIN
    AISIN
  • Airtex
    Airtex
  • Aisin
    Aisin
  • Beck Arnley
    Beck Arnley
  • Cardone
    Cardone
  • GMB
    GMB
  • Gates
    Gates
  • Genuine
    Genuine
  • Graf
    Graf
  • Metrix
    Metrix
  • NPW
    NPW

Best Selling Genuine Subaru Water Pumps

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including GMB, Genuine, NPW, AISIN, Gates
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Subaru Replacement Water Pump Parts

We stock Water Pump parts for most Subaru models, including BRZ, Baja, Brat, Crosstrek, Forester, GL, Impreza, Legacy, Loyale, Outback, SVX, WRX, WRX STI, XV, XV Crosstrek.

GMB
2006 Subaru B9 Tribeca Engine Water Pump GMB

P311-5C410DE    W0133-1654555  New

Qty:
$117.73
GMB Engine Water Pump
Brand: GMB
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - Subaru B9 Tribeca
Genuine
2010 Subaru Legacy Engine Water Pump 4 Cyl 2.5L Genuine

P311-0E4E784    W0133-1896184  New

Qty:
$228.58
Genuine Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Water Pump Gasket, Water Pump Seal, and Thermostat Gasket Serviced Separately.
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block CC CID
2010 - Subaru Legacy Naturally Aspirated H 2458 -
GMB
1998 Subaru Forester Engine Water Pump GMB

P311-17F38D1    W0133-1619761  New

Qty:
$52.09
GMB Engine Water Pump
  • with Gasket/T-Stat O-ring
Brand: GMB
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1998 - Subaru Forester
NPW
1998 Subaru Forester Engine Water Pump NPW

P311-14FB223    W0133-1619761  New

Qty:
$91.67
NPW Engine Water Pump
  • with Gasket/T-Stat O-ring
Brand: NPW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1998 - Subaru Forester
GMB
1997 Subaru Legacy Engine Water Pump GMB

P311-17F38D1    W0133-1619761  New

Qty:
$52.09
GMB Engine Water Pump
  • Production: -02/1997
  • with Gasket/T-Stat O-ring
Brand: GMB
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1997 - Subaru Legacy To:02-00-97
NPW
1997 Subaru Legacy Engine Water Pump NPW

P311-14FB223    W0133-1619761  New

Qty:
$91.67
NPW Engine Water Pump
  • Production: -02/1997
  • with Gasket/T-Stat O-ring
Brand: NPW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1997 - Subaru Legacy To:02-00-97
NPW
2006 Subaru Impreza Engine Water Pump NPW

P311-2ECB8D7    W0133-1799125  New

Qty:
$162.86
NPW Engine Water Pump
Brand: NPW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration
2006 - Subaru Impreza Naturally Aspirated
NPW
1987 Subaru Justy Engine Water Pump NPW

P311-1D21968    W0133-1633305  New

Qty:
$21.95
NPW Engine Water Pump
Brand: NPW
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1987 - Subaru Justy
AISIN
1985 Subaru DL Engine Water Pump AISIN

P311-2DB6036    W0133-1621824  New

Qty:
$85.72
AISIN Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • w/o A/C or with Dealer Installed A/C

    (Long - 110mm Shaft)
  • May Differ in Appearance From Original
  • 110mm shaft (long)
Brand: AISIN
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1985 - Subaru DL
AISIN
1990 Subaru Loyale Engine Water Pump AISIN

P311-2DB6036    W0133-1621824  New

Qty:
$85.72
AISIN Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • May Differ in Appearance From Original
  • 110mm shaft (long)
Brand: AISIN
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1990 - Subaru Loyale
GMB
1980 Subaru DL Engine Water Pump GMB

P311-1F962E1    W0133-1624263  New

Qty:
$48.42
GMB Engine Water Pump
  • with Gasket
Brand: GMB
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission
1980 - Subaru DL Automatic
Genuine
2008 Subaru Tribeca Engine Water Pump Genuine

P311-3CC9E4B    W0133-1797100  New

Qty:
$277.56
Genuine Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Includes Gasket and Pulley
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - Subaru Tribeca
AISIN
2002 Subaru Impreza Engine Water Pump 4 Cyl 2.0L AISIN

P311-52F1B66    W0133-1618015  New

Qty:
$150.86
AISIN Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • May Require Additional Gaskets
Brand: AISIN
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2002 - Subaru Impreza H 1994 -
AISIN
1992 Subaru Legacy Engine Water Pump AISIN

P311-032B2FE    W0133-1618249  New

Qty:
$173.07
AISIN Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • May Require Additional Gaskets
Brand: AISIN
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration
1992 - Subaru Legacy Turbocharged
AISIN
2005 Subaru Baja Engine Water Pump AISIN

P311-535E944    W0133-1768139  New

Qty:
$174.68
AISIN Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • with Gasket
Brand: AISIN
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration
2005 - Subaru Baja Turbocharged
AISIN
2008 Subaru Forester Engine Water Pump AISIN

P311-1533D0E    W0133-1799124  New

Qty:
$136.02
AISIN Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • Gasket Serviced Separately
Brand: AISIN
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration
2008 - Subaru Forester Turbocharged
AISIN
2006 Subaru Impreza Engine Water Pump AISIN

P311-56D3F20    W0133-1799125  New

Qty:
$175.69
AISIN Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
Brand: AISIN
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration
2006 - Subaru Impreza Naturally Aspirated
AISIN
2004 Subaru Baja Engine Water Pump AISIN

P311-535E944    W0133-1768139  New

Qty:
$174.68
AISIN Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • Includes Pulley
  • with Gasket
Brand: AISIN
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration
2004 - Subaru Baja Turbocharged
NPW
2004 Subaru Baja Engine Water Pump NPW

P311-2EADBB8    W0133-1768139  New

Qty:
$167.27
NPW Engine Water Pump
  • Includes Pulley
  • with Gasket
Brand: NPW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration
2004 - Subaru Baja Turbocharged
Gates
2006 Subaru Forester Engine Water Pump Gates

P311-59B9962    W0133-1828670  New

Qty:
$169.41
Gates Engine Water Pump
  • Standard
Brand: Gates
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Transmission
2006 - Subaru Forester X Automatic

Latest Subaru Repair and Water Pump Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

85 subaru-water pump pulley

Showing 6 out of 6 Posts
Question From albqscott on 85 subaru-water pump pulley

I have a 85 Subaru wagon. the pulley for i believe the water pump has come loose on my wagon, all the belts were loose and it caused it to over heat and loose power steering, today i pulled all the belts off, tightened the pulley put the belts back on and tried to start it. Started okay but almost immediately i noticed the pulley was loose again. Any idea why it keeps coming loose, is the pulley bad or something internal, not letting it tighten properly? all the help will be appreciated. thanks

lost in albuquerque

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Is the waterpump bad itself? Check the loose pulley for what it mounts to for the problem,

T

Response From albqscott

as far as i know the pump is fine, it may not even be the water pump pulley, not sure no manual, it looked like it bolts into part of the timing belt, i could see part of the timing belt anyway when i pulled the pulley off

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Whatever that pulley mounts to -- an idler or whatever seems like the problem. If it doesn't tighten up there might be some stripped threads, loose bolts or something you should be able to see,

T

Response From albqscott

it does tighten up, until the car is started then it comes loose right away, im thinking its the main pulley not the water pump

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Is this pulley the harmonic balancer? That would be the only one that would turn with nothing attached as it is right on the crankshaft. They are rubber isolated unseen and could have failed. I don't know of that as common but sure needs looking into,

T

1998 Subaru Legacy Wagon Radiator/Coolant Leak

Showing 2 out of 15 Posts | Show 13 Hidden Posts
Question From yeahnick on 1998 Subaru Legacy Wagon Radiator/Coolant Leak

1998
Subaru
Legacy
2.2L
160k miles


So, my friend took her car (one above) to Jiffy Lube, gets an oil change, fluids topped off, whatever, then goes to Maui for a week. Lets her friend borrow the car, she gets back her friend says the car is out of coolant, leaks, blah blah. She calls me tells me the whole thing, so I think it's the heater core at first because she mentioned no heater, but low coolant = no heat as well.

Anyways, she drives it over, its leaking pretty bad through the bottom, and I can't see much cause it's dark. So I assume it's her radiator, girl is very very cheap, so I order the least expensive new radiator I can find that has decent reviews (50 bucks shipped, new).

This morning in the rain, I procede to take out the radiator. Fins look good, few bent ones nothing crazy, nothing that tells me it's leaking. I look at the spot where the upper radiator hose attatches and it's sort of warped on one side, it should be circular, but it's flat on one side.

Anyways, should I replace the radiator anyways, or attatch the hose high enough so it's not on the flat warped part, or will it just warp again soon anyways? I will probably pressure check the radiator to make sure it's not leaking, just plug bottom and top and poor water in the fill with a hose or something, ya?

Any help is much appreciated, thanks!

Nick

Will upload pics as soon as I find a host for them! (soon)

Pics:





Response From Discretesignals

Before you took the radiator out you should have pressure tested the coolant system with the engine cold to determine the leak source(s).

If you suspect the radiator has a fault, you should replace it. Doesn't make sense to take your chances on an old aluminum radiator that could destroy a $3000 engine. Flush out the system and replace the radiator cap too. Once you have the new radiator installed and refilled, pressure test the coolant system and check for leaks.

Being a 98, the hoses have probably deteriorated inside. Try to get cheap ass to replace the hoses. Nothing last forever and unless she wants to keep driving the thing or she is not planning on selling it soon, she needs to put some money into it to maintain it.

Response From yeahnick

Hey, thanks so much! Yeah, definitely.

Great, that's what I'll do!

Yeah, had to sell her 05 Prius, and I actually found this car for a decent price for her, it's still a good deal after I put the radiator in. But yeah, gonna have to last at least ~2 years or so of grad school and until financial stability.

Response From nickwarner

Is that duct tape I see on that hose? New hose is cheaper than new engine.

Response From MarineGrunt

I was thinking either duct tape or that foil tape, but he did say she was a cheap ass, so I'd say you're right with the duct tape.

Response From yeahnick

Yeah, it's duct tape. Was there when she got the car, but yeah, :-/.

So... Radiator inlet looks toast?

Response From nickwarner

Yes, and the hose too. I wouldn't be trusting a $50 radiator either. That car isn't going to last through college when the epoxy that holds the plastic tank to the aluminum core cracks, though the MacGuyver job on the hose would burst pretty much anytime anyway. Then when she doesn't bother to look at the temp gauge and the red overtemp idiot light flashes morse code screams of "STOP ME PLEEAAASSSSEEEE" she cracks the block and warps the heads into a pretzel.

New hoses and a new radiator are the only way to prevent such obvious impending failures from happening, and she'll save a lot of money on duct tape. There is no sense trying to be penny wise yet dollar foolish. I can understand not wasting money frivolously, but putting a duct taped hose and a $50 radiator into this and thinking its just as good as new is like playing russian roulette with 5 live rounds. Well, MAYBE you could be the lucky one but I doubt it.

Response From yeahnick

Yeah, if it were my car I would do exactly that. So I'll go ahead and take care of it as if it were mine, thanks guys!

Response From nickwarner

Sometimes you can't just do what she wants, you have to act in her best interests. She may not be happy about the money but if you tell her you found such and such part bad while you were in ther or it was in such bad shape if came apart when you pulled it out she might understand. You have to get her to trust you and your abilities. My girl never questions what I do with the cars. Then again, I'm the one that bought them and I'm the one paying for parts so I guess she has no say anyhow.

One piece of advice for the future is to never look at a car problem without a very bright light, and the LED flashlights are dirt cheap now so get a few. Put one in your house, one in the glovebox, etc. But never order parts based on a general direction of a leak that you saw in the dark. Even in daylight I get out the light to be 100% positive I am right.

Let us know how this works out for you and if any complications come up we can walk you through it.

Response From yeahnick Top Rated Answer

Ok, new radiator is in and working good, actually looks like a pretty decent radiator for 50 bucks, everything fits, etc.

Anyways, car is leaking, peaked underneath to find it, its looking like the water pump. So that's a bummer. I don't have a garage, doing this in the street and don't have enough time to fix this myself (I have to write and defend my Master's Thesis in the next month). Taking the car to the shop I use to have them put in a new one for ~320$ minus the cost of the water pump.

Friend says she just wants the car to last a year and doesn't want to put any money into she doesn't have to. Might try and convince her a car is more of an investment and the better you take care of it the better the re-sale.

Also replaced the top and bottom radiator hoses, and going to have a new thermostat installed, while they're in there I'll have them check the timing belt and tensioner, I might go ahead and buy those and if they don't need to be replaced just return them...

Response From yeahnick

Update:

Had to replace tension-er, and unfortunately found a gutted thermostat in place of where a real thermostat should be. Had my mechanic put a real thermostat in there with the new water pump, he noted the head-gaskets were leaking oil and so were the cam-seals and crank seals. I had him just put it back together drove it around a little bit, and now it's misfiring like crazy. I'm assuming head-gaskets are blown now and going to actually fixed it like I should have when I heard all those seals were going. Anyways, some lessons are hard to learn. Don't flame too much, I'm positive I should have just had everything replaced the first time it was apart,

Response From Discretesignals

It's not uncommon for those to blow head gaskets and also leak oil from the head gaskets. She better be making you dinner and folding your clothes for all your doing for her.

Response From yeahnick

In actuality I was the one who advised her to buy this car in the first place, it was mechanic owned, the guy has a shop. Anyways I thought he was a trustworthy guy, said he did head gaskets and timing belt. Yah, so I really feel responsible, though all I have been doing is trying to help. My pride is hurt, can't believe that guy swindled me.

Response From Discretesignals

A holes like that gives us honest mechs and techs a bad name. I wouldn't even class that person as a mechanic.

Response From nickwarner

Well, lesson learned. Doesn't help that someone gutted that stat before. Good luck on that thesis.

82 subaru gl, heater not throwing heat

Showing 4 out of 5 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From wdano on 82 subaru gl, heater not throwing heat

i just bought a 82 subaru gl, many little things to fix, first off all is the heat problem...no heat...car is 1.8l 2wd wagon, has 262000km, problem...heat selector switch seems to be working (proof -- is slight change in temp when selector turned from hot to cold), changed thermostat, checked fuses and blower, all ok...with little knowledge, i am suspecting water pump or heater core...when car idles heat guage builds, if you then turn on blower a very short shot of warmth with come then die off rather quickly...also, if you idle car then drive it heat will build to almost half of heat guage, then when driving heat guage drops to almost quarter of gauge within minutes...any further info...when engine warm rad hose to rad is warm (hot really), rad then warms, and hose from rad to water pump warm, once all warm both feed and return hoses for heater are warm, yet no warm air from heater...any ideas....

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sounds like this would benefit from a good general flush of everything - thermostat out and both directions on as much as you can. AYOR to use flushing products as I worry with older vehicles what they might find sleeping that could be fine if not aggrevated.

Temp gauge should be steady all the time so that alone indicates it's not perfect especially if noticed in cooler weather. Flush away and don't overdo the anti-freeze. Watch that and if totally flushed out you know there's some plain water left so add no more than 50% of listed capacity first then just water,

T

Response From wdano

okay...will try flush...am fairly handy around a car, yet not familiar with your technique for flushing with "thermostat out" and in both directions, can you elaborate some for me..thanks

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ok: Thermostat will be cold and shut tight of course when doing this so you get a good/better shot at flushing with plain garden hose thru that and removed radiator hoses as needed. Hold hose and allow direction of water to push backwards thru radiator and engine as possible can dislodge more gunk which should help. Same with heater core. Careful with hoses connected right to a core as they can be good an stuck and break the core in removal. Sacrifice hose if needed NOT the core! Same is true of radiator inlet/oulets - they can break if removal is a fight.

It's just a good time to refresh coolant ( as hazmat BTW so dispose of collected old properly) and a new thermostat while you are there is the common suggestion.

More: I suggest the garden hose way and not full force of water but rather just hold with a rag on hoses and items to allow flow and watch till clear then reverse direction. Silty gunk should flush out. Some crusty blockages won't flush so easy or at all and some may require a radiator or heater core replacement. They used to acid boil them out but most won't take that when older and replacements may be reasonable. Heater core replacements are usually quite a job so try to get that to flow well both ways and save it.

Even in '82 many hoses are custom molded for the car and replace as you see fit or budget allows. New radiator cap is always a good idea too. Actually - you can run up quite a ticket with hoses, t-stat, gasket, clamps and the anti-freeze even doing this yourself!

Re; The flush solvents sold: They scare me a bit so I avoid that stuff if flushing appears to work. If that core really doesn't flow well I might try using flush solvent isolated to just it and not the whole system.

_____________

Do keep in mind that the commonly used EG = Ethylene Glycol is a hazmat AND animals may try to drink it so don't leave it around on open pans. Also already said is that too strong a mix isn't helpful so avoid that - read container and know system capacity + do the math,

T

Response From wdano Top Rated Answer

thanks tom, will get at that as soon as i can, car is a spare in the event either my wife or i have a break down with one of ours, as i do do most of our auto repairs myself, sometimes its not the best time to be rebuilding drum brakes in a snow filled driveway at 2 am 'cuz she needs to be at work for 8 am...that said, i will repost with results after flush...thanks. dan.

ohh, talked this flush with my father, also a back yard mech-anik...he wants to know if using a descaler like CLR or lime-a-way (household stuff) would be softer than automotive flushes, or would this not be a good idea at any age of car...thanks again

1990 Subi Legacy EJ22 SOHC overheating

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From subisnacks on 1990 Subi Legacy EJ22 SOHC overheating

Hi, I have a 1990 Subaru Legacy wagon with EJ22 SOHC engine. It has been overheating, mechanic told me it was the water pump. So I had a car project weekend & here's what all I fixed: new water pump, new thermostat, new timing belt & idler pulleys, new valve cover gaskets, new oil filter & oil change, new coolant, new radiator hoses & clamps, new alternator belt. After all that work its still overheating, it starts up & temp starts to go up, but it doesn't stop at operating temp it just continues to go up & up & in about 15 minutes the temp is thru the roof (either at idle or while driving, driving seems to get it there faster). So I'm thinking clogged radiator? Any other ideas?

Response From nickwarner Top Rated Answer

You could have a plugged radiator, could've put the thermostat in backwards, could have blown a head gasket or may be as simple as you haven't gotten the air bed out of the system yet. Double check your work.