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GMB
2003 Oldsmobile Bravada Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 4.2L GMB

P311-2AB12CE    130-7700  New

181638 , 96166 , 12620226 , 252822 , NP015097 , A307700 , T1231 , 21097 , 89036357 , AVC9234 , 160097107 , 5513311 , P5097 , AW5097 , 24576952 , 100588 , 58588 , 511817 , 1463856 , 2678691 , 12582431 , AWP9234 , 41122 , CP5097 , HYT11118C , US5097 , 8126202260 , 251635 , 1307700 , MBA095097 , 111118 , 8245769520 , WP3138

Qty:
$45.39
GMB Engine Water Pump
Brand: GMB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2003 - Oldsmobile Bravada L 6 Cyl 4.2L 256 -
GMB
1995 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera Engine Water Pump 4 Cyl 2.2L GMB

P311-34F9D0C    130-1470  New

WP1928 , 1301470 , WP862 , 252723 , AW5032 , AWP624 , 1624 , 70463 , 41019 , W463 , 71354 , HYT11044C , TVI5032 , 24577257 , WP788A , 7093350 , 40873A , QAW5032 , GWG47A , W447N , 10089654 , 58328 , B860 , 346 , P860 , 251384 , 8125184430 , W1677 , 251491 , 12462265 , A301470 , 58328H , 160066618 , 435 , WH6033 , 1312168 , W447 , 11032 , ELGWP5032 , 111044 , 251583 , 12518443 , WPGM14 , US5032 , 96039 , 745922 , 12363139 , T1154 , 8123631690 , PC668 , 2282036 , 1721 , WP204 , NP015032 , 1462110 , P1351 , MBA09860 , 50943 , WP5032 , 12363169 , 511771 , 170346 , WP881 , 10048968 , 5513126 , 18462 , CP5032 , 87674433938 , 10435 , FP1880 , 251609 , 8124622650 , 1674 , NP1351

Qty:
$20.50
GMB Engine Water Pump
Brand: GMB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1995 - Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera L 4 Cyl 2.2L 134 2190
GMB
1997 Oldsmobile Bravada Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 4.3L GMB

P311-4206F84    130-1820  New

251579 , 8890177480 , 1301820 , 160068032 , WP952 , 89017748 , NP025077 , 251695 , MBA09968 , 251719 , CP5077 , HYT11101C , 251566 , 43315 , 311101 , 12532528 , 511806 , 2283326 , WP5077 , ELGWP5077 , 1462258 , P1626 , 10238199 , 58521H , 6928567 , 8890605270 , T3131 , B968 , 1312226 , 181384 , 691038 , 1389100 , 2600588 , QAW5077 , TVI5077 , 12528917 , 88926225 , 5511311 , 89060527 , US5077 , 2282447 , GWG82A , 8125325280 , AW5077 , NP1626 , 41077 , 10836 , P968 , P1626HD , CVC9020 , CWP9020 , WH2065 , 252711 , 8125289170 , 40900A , FP2326 , 58679 , 98143 , 12532526 , 88896225 , 12561392 , 58521

Qty:
$37.10
GMB Engine Water Pump
  • OE Replacement
Brand: GMB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1997 - Oldsmobile Bravada V 6 Cyl 4.3L 262 -
GMB
1994 Oldsmobile Bravada Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 4.3L GMB

P311-2A71398    130-1620  New

P882 , 5743939 , 251495 , 251581 , W471 , US5049 , WPGM06 , 7093430 , 31022705 , 98089 , 10438 , 87674433952 , 12523709 , 12529304 , 12532529 , W1759 , 10105828 , AW5049 , CVC715 , FP1882 , 5511124 , 43114 , ELGWP5049 , 2282064 , WH2021 , W480 , 438 , 19201601 , 10444 , 12522032 , CP5049 , 511784 , 364 , 160066093 , 10048948 , 70480 , 88926233 , 7093480 , 438HD , 251496 , 51359 , 251580 , 1675 , 12369487 , GWG62A , 14102026 , 12532531 , CWP715 , 10077059 , 1462240 , 12550642 , ELGWP5039 , 58367 , 16213 , 251570 , W1779 , TVI5039 , 452 , 356 , HYT11056C , P910X , 31028400 , 2282145 , 252719 , 10174846 , 12522031 , W471N , 1740 , 40302A , W482N , W482 , 311056 , 18626 , 10108451 , 18459 , P910 , B910 , 251594 , 88894005 , 41049 , WP212 , 12558753 , T3113 , MBA09910 , B882 , NP025049 , 609577 , WP5049 , 251461 , QAW5049 , 12564695S , 1301620 , CP5039 , PC880 , 10148030 , 3715 , P1477 , 19168600

Qty:
$28.18
GMB Engine Water Pump
  • OE Replacement
Brand: GMB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1994 - Oldsmobile Bravada V 6 Cyl 4.3L 262 -
GMB
1989 Oldsmobile Cutlass Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 3.1L GMB

P311-4444B16    130-1480  New

12371989 , 251682 , P864AX , 50944 , HYT11040C , WP867 , W445N , 1462128 , 96040 , 12518295 , 14092225 , W1680 , AWP625 , 251671 , 1301480 , WP5033 , CP5033 , W445 , 7093360 , PC667 , NP015033 , 251490 , P864 , P1346 , 433 , NP1346 , WP826A , T1172 , 111040 , W461 , 88926235 , 10048949 , US5033 , 7093370 , WP1926 , 70461 , 347 , 511772 , GWG48A , AW5033 , 1719 , 170347 , 160066161 , WPGM10 , 12577510 , TVI5033 , 87674433907 , WP205 , ELGWP5033 , 251455 , 58323 , 89017269 , MBA09864 , FP1877 , WH6031 , 252721 , 251598 , 71353 , 1625 , 11033 , B864 , 89017311 , 58323H , QAW5033 , A301480 , 251383 , 18439 , 40801A , 609574 , 41020 , 1676 , 2282029 , 10433 , 5513127 , 181802 , 10174858

Qty:
$20.77
GMB Engine Water Pump
Brand: GMB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1989 - Oldsmobile Cutlass V 6 Cyl 3.1L 189 -
GMB
2001 Oldsmobile Aurora Engine Water Pump 8 Cyl 4.0L GMB

P311-3B653F5    130-1840  New

251617 , 12553337 , A301840 , 181326 , 7093690 , 251660 , AVC9018 , NP1662 , 31028281 , 511801 , 160068027 , 111096 , P956 , AWP9018 , FP2293 , 101219 , 89017900 , 19210509 , ELGWP5072 , CP5072 , 252707 , NP035072 , 89017467 , 1301840 , P1623 , GWG84A , US5072 , WP325 , HYT11096C , 40926A , T1163 , 12487361 , 12529993 , 1463872 , AW5072 , 12597885 , 1539149 , 96116 , 12555574 , 7490007 , 41026 , 31028361 , 88894344 , 58512 , 5513515 , WH3014 , 2599798 , 11072

Qty:
$34.80
GMB Engine Water Pump
Brand: GMB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2001 - Oldsmobile Aurora V 8 Cyl 4.0L 244 -
GMB
1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 3.8L GMB

P311-14719B0    130-1780  New

251715 , P978 , 31026501 , HYT11099C , 89060462 , 12482903 , 251718 , 40898A , 668054 , 2283324 , B301780 , 21075 , WH7031 , 511804 , QAW5075 , T2269 , WP5075 , 10872 , 24504920 , 89017813 , 87674958592 , ELGWP5075 , 181382 , 2599098 , 31028266 , NP1616 , WPGM07 , 251562 , 89018214 , FP2324 , NP015075 , WP286 , P1616 , 1301780 , 7093660 , B978 , 252693 , US5075 , 1462178 , 2282443 , 42097 , 12537829 , WP4001RP , MBA09978 , 19209288 , 58531 , BWP9016 , W1030 , CP5075 , AW5075 , 5513134 , WP959 , 211099 , GWG78A , 97152

Qty:
$28.52
GMB Engine Water Pump
Brand: GMB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1998 - Oldsmobile Intrigue V 6 Cyl 3.8L 231 3800
ACDelco
2004 Oldsmobile Bravada Engine Water Pump ACDelco

P311-2AC8AEC    W0133-1910199  New

Qty:
$200.81
ACDelco Engine Water Pump
  • Professional
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Oldsmobile Bravada
Gates
2004 Oldsmobile Bravada Engine Water Pump Gates - with Gasket

P311-575894E    W0133-1910199  New

Qty:
$99.84
  • Standard
  • Includes Gasket
  • with Gasket
Brand: Gates
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Oldsmobile Bravada
ACDelco
2004 Oldsmobile Bravada Engine Water Pump ACDelco

P311-2AC8AEC    W0133-1910199  New

Qty:
$200.81
ACDelco Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Oldsmobile Bravada
ACDelco
2004 Oldsmobile Alero Engine Water Pump 4 Cyl 2.2L ACDelco

P311-58444C2    W0133-1942120  New

Qty:
$322.94
ACDelco Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Oldsmobile Alero L 4 Cyl 2.2L 134 2198
ACDelco
2004 Oldsmobile Alero Engine Water Pump 4 Cyl 2.2L ACDelco

P311-58444C2    W0133-1942120  New

Qty:
$322.94
ACDelco Engine Water Pump
  • Professional
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Oldsmobile Alero L 4 Cyl 2.2L 134 2198
GMB
1993 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 3.3L GMB

P311-20C6A45    W0133-1908930  New

Qty:
$41.45
Brand: GMB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1993 - Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera V 6 Cyl 3.3L 204 -
ACDelco
2003 Oldsmobile Aurora Engine Water Pump ACDelco

P311-2B38222    W0133-1908761  New

Qty:
$143.09
ACDelco Engine Water Pump
  • Professional
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Oldsmobile Aurora
ACDelco
2003 Oldsmobile Aurora Engine Water Pump ACDelco

P311-2B38222    W0133-1908761  New

Qty:
$143.09
ACDelco Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Oldsmobile Aurora
Gates
2001 Oldsmobile Alero Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 3.4L Gates

P311-3113AD5    W0133-1692098  New

Qty:
$43.46
  • Standard
Brand: Gates
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2001 - Oldsmobile Alero V 6 Cyl 3.4L 207 -
GMB
2001 Oldsmobile Bravada Engine Water Pump GMB

P311-3B9B67B    W0133-1886335  New

Qty:
$55.50
Brand: GMB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Oldsmobile Bravada
ACDelco
2001 Oldsmobile Bravada Engine Water Pump ACDelco

P311-32D57C1    W0133-1886335  New

Qty:
$363.48
ACDelco Engine Water Pump
  • Professional
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Oldsmobile Bravada
ACDelco
2001 Oldsmobile Bravada Engine Water Pump ACDelco

P311-32D57C1    W0133-1886335  New

Qty:
$363.48
ACDelco Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Oldsmobile Bravada

Latest Oldsmobile Repair and Water Pump Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Need an Opinion

Showing 3 out of 7 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From Classic6 on Need an Opinion

Look for engine parts for a 1931 Oldsmobile F31, specifically a water pump, does anyone know of a place that might carry that who knows their stuff?

Response From nickwarner

If you have a car like that, you should subscribe the Hemmings Motor News. They are huge in the collector car niche and anyone who sells things for that car would certainly advertise there. Very cool magazine they publish too.

Response From Classic6

thanks, I'll look at that forum too, like this one as well I just follow them both!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

As Nick said, Hemmings is a world class wonder for some impossible stuff. Used to subscribe B4 computer/web or anything and issues were like NYC phone books! Haven't perused their web site but saw a magazine still out there once recently.

1931? Granted a bit before my time but I would bet the pump was made to rebuild and seal yourself. If all else fails see if you can find any #s on bearings or seals that just might be able to cross over. If housing is the problem that would be another job to find or fix that. Stuff was made to fix not just toss. Right around then some didn't use water pumps at all just relied on convection,

T

Response From Classic6

Thanks for the advice! I'm still on the search, fixing it myself was gonna be the last option, I don't want to brake something that is irreversible. Happened to me once and I'll never just try to be a handy man with exploring all my options.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Try not to break anything but you'd be surprised that it probably could be fixed if you cracked it!

Car should be similar to this..........

Once a member and found it is still out there thru Hemmings Motor News, Bennington, VT.

You will find lots of help from this organization and local places that could fix your own or may have one done for swap. That or just get the rebuild parts and find a local place to you do that much for you. Any gaskets you can make. Gotta ask around at real even perhaps single store parts places if any exist near you to fix yours for this and other things you may need in the future. Some of these places web sites may fail or not be listed out there at all but they exist,

Tom

Response From Classic6 Top Rated Answer

This looks great! Thanks for replying with this! Much appreciated!

Re: 1998 Oldsmobile Aurora overheating?

Showing 3 out of 9 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From xdxbatmanxcx on Re: 1998 Oldsmobile Aurora overheating?

hi. i was reading your post. im having similar problems myself. i just put in a new thermostat and its working fine and it has a newer water pump just put on last year. my car keeps jumping up to temp's nearing the orange line which is bad. is it the head gaskets then? because i dont know of any reason my car would over heat. the fan's working the water pump is working. i was told it could have a bad seal so next weekend im gonna go have it looked at. but i do not understand why it gets hot. it has smoke coming out of the resivouir when i take the cap off so can you help me out with this?? i would greatly appreciate it.


darren

Response From Tom Greenleaf

For the moment seeing smoke/steam at reservoir is not conclusive with it running hot for reasons to be found still.

It must be known full of coolant first and foremost. Not just the reservoir but the radiator. Generally if heater works there's an adequate level of coolant for some info. If not dig in and determine whether there's air in the system. Head gaskets can add air as well as small leaks can leave a reservoir full or too full and suck air in thru the leak. Head gaskets can add combustion pressured vapor (essentially air) into cooling system and cause this. That can usually be detected by feeling upper rad hose from a cold start noting no pressure when cold and if pressure is felt quickly - like within a minute or two that's too fast and more testing needed.

I don't think this model has a radiator cap on the radiator which makes it difficult to know it's full. When no pressure is in system it may bubble at reservoir when squeezing upper hose for instance and should only move coolant - no air bubbles seen.

Seems like everything else works so it could also be a clogged radiator that just can't transfer heat well anymore. Flushing whole system can be very telling and good for it.

Again - run heater on full temp request and that's a good indicator of engine temp up to boiling where heat will quit (just trust me) - if no heat is available it's usually air with the symptoms you've posted,

T

Response From xdxbatmanxcx

ok thank you both. i dont know much about cars thats why i figured id check around. i am gonna take it to a shop monday to see whats going on. i had it at a shop and they were supposed to flush it or w/e to get all air out but idk. and i did flush the system out tho when i put in a new thermostat because i put in some gook (idk how to spell the word) and i had to make sure all coolant was out before doing so. but i noticed you said something about the heat. i've noticed it will be hot for a minute then cold the next. the car has a .... idk info screen if you will.. that tells you low coolant low oil ect.. and it keeps sayin coolant even tho i put it in. i was told i gotta put in a code to get it to stop sayin low so that i can actually tell when its low but idk how to obtain this code. i do not have owner manual so i probably going to have to search the net. but everytime i turn the air onto defrost the a/c light comes on and i only can turn it off if i switch it to feet where the heat comes from.. and i have the temp set at 90 and it still goes from hot to cold. so are you saying there is still air?? and as for the nose bleed lol yeah my buddy said take the cap off let it run see if the air will come out like a burp lol. but i am gonna investigate this more. would anyone happen to know a price on how much it would cost if it were head gaskets? i have a friend who has a shop but b4 asking because we're not "that close" i wanna make sure i know an area of the price. thank you for you time i really do appreciate it alot

darren

Response From Tom Greenleaf

darren: I'd bet right now the up front problem is air in the system and it still needs purging, burping and it isn't always that easy. Like Loren said you have to keep trying, jack up vehicle where you put coolant in can help a lot. There are purge plugs on some usually near thermostat. Sometimes taking a hose off and filling there first from low or empty.

The second the heater quits it's late (try to stop engine before that if temp needle or indication of too hot some other light or something) you have to shut it down till cool again as if things are ok (don't know that yet) it will draw coolant back from the fill/reservoir as it cools - just sitting there, engine off and coolant contracting. It can take several cycles of this - a whole case of brew, several cigars and a "Partridge in a Pear Tree" to get this right and something still may be wrong with it. That's why they have so many hair replacement clinics! There are special tools that really speed up filling a system - especially those with no cap on the radiator, using vacuum and a kit that switches over so only coolant goes in.

Sealer (gook, goo,gunky junk, stuff to seal, block seal....) in there is not a good sign and if you or someone did that to cover something up it usually doesn't last AND usually becomes it's own problem!

Back: As soon as heater quits it's either boiling or just has passed a bubble further along and if you are in fact boiling or too hot in engine you defeat all the purging you already did and start over! That's why we make the big bucks!

Here's a link I wrote with info here at this site + from others too on purging air - especially for DIYers.....

http://autoforums.carjunky.com/...ling_Systems_P36410/

You probably have a light to indicate low coolant and it senses that on the radiator and you can't see if there's liquid or air there but it does.

The A/C light is possibly low refrigerant and not really anything to be involved in with just the cooling system and engine running temps right now. Take that as a separate issue completely as it's separate to this problem.

Head gaskets are frequently a maybe and makes it harder to know at first if filling the system is difficult to begin with like this car is. Gasses can be detected at the fill reservoir for exhaust/combustion gasses which is a serious clue of troubles.

If it's that much trouble for you then you should seek professional help and a diagnosis if it doesn't behave.

Cost of head gasket job will vary and needs a damage assessment before you can get a quote. Expect a lot of bucks if it needs those or tons of bucks if bad enough!

T

Response From xdxbatmanxcx Top Rated Answer

okay well im going to take it and see what they have to say. but i do appreciate all the help

Response From xdxbatmanxcx

ok guys i found out my problem.. my fan isnt working.. i replaced the fuse to start with and that worked.. BUT.. doing so a wire started smoking and stopped the fan.. so i replaced the wire and it worked.. BUT.. then another wire smoked.. when it was on the fan was running super speed.. the car was not even hot and the fan was flying.. i wanna assume the wires were not big enough gauge to hold the power it generated thats why they got to hot.. i also am not a mechanic but i am gonna assume that it was a rig job on whomever had the car and tried to fix the fan. but i think that it needs a switch or sensor to make the fan go slower and turn off.. because i noticed it wouldnt shut off.. so with all this being said do either of you have any suggestions?? tomor i am going to a shop but would like to hear from you guys before if possible.. thank you for your time


darren

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If wiring has been altered you are going to have to see what doesn't look original. Fan working when not even called for could be that you have defroster, defog or something on - turn the climate controls off for testing or leave on heat only or vent only. Fans can be triggered with a defrost request.

Melted wire insulation! Ack! The motor may be drawing too much current or the gauge of wire really is under size. If splicing in new wire certainly try to get right gauge and color if at all possible. There could also be a relay that's burned, stuck causing fan to stay on.

With hacked wiring it opens the book for lots of possibilities. Keep things fused with proper amp fuses if any blow while working with this,

T

Response From xdxbatmanxcx

will do i'm gonna have some stuff checked out today thanks for the help again tom much appreciation

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Darren; You replaced the thermostat because of the overheating problem? On some vehicles, it is very easy, and a very common mistake to install them backwards. Assuming that is not the problem, are you certain that you've bled all of the air out of the cooling system. Again, this can be a real pain. I've had to raise the front of a car up so high that it got a nose bleed. Seriously, though, it really can be a pain getting all of the air out. Head gaskets; It is a fairly easy test. You can take it to a shop that has a gas analyzer and have them 'sniff' the coolant reservoir for hydrocarbons. Or, most of the parts stores sell a chemical that will do the same. Changes from a blue color to yellow if exhaust gases are present.

HELP!1998 oldsmobile aurora overheating

Showing 7 out of 14 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From suzanner on HELP!1998 oldsmobile aurora overheating

Help please car is overheating. Done all compression tests, new water pump, new raditor, thermostat was rusted solid removed and did not put new one in--thinking it would help to keep the engine cool. Could not replacing the thermostat cause it to overheat? Or any other suggestions? Thanks suzy. Personal contact info removed.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

There are dozens of reasons for overheating, depending on the condition of the cooling system and yes, it does require a thermostat at all times.

Response From Discretesignals

thermostat was rusted solid

That's not a good thing. You flush the engine and coolant system out before replacing the radiator?

Does it overheat sitting at a light or while cruising?

Response From suzanner

Thanks for the feedback. Car didn't run for a year. It overheats while sitting.

Response From Discretesignals

Do the electrical cooling fans come on when it is getting hot? If you have the ac turned on, do the fans come on?

Response From suzanner

When it reaches 190-200 low coolant light clicks on as well as fans.

Response From Discretesignals

Did you flush out the system really well, including the heater core?

Response From suzanner

Yes I did n still overheating.

Response From Discretesignals

When the fans come on, is the air blowing out of the fans hot? Feel the heater hoses. Are they hot?

Response From suzanner

Heater hose is hot and building pressure. Fans are blowing cold. If there is any trapped air in the system will that cause it to overheat.

Response From Discretesignals

Makes us wonder why it was sitting so long.

Yes, that will definitely cause it to overheat. If there is combustion gases getting into the coolant system, no amount of bleeding is going to work. A cylinder leak down test can reveal if there is a head gasket problem, cracked head, or cracked cylinder wall. You'll see bubbles in the coolant system when you pressures the cylinder. Compression tests may not give you an indication if the leak is small.



Some of techs use vacuum coolant lift system to do refills on those, because they do like to trap air sometimes.

Here is the service procedure:

FILLING PROCEDURE

1. Close the radiator drain cock.

NOTICE: When adding coolant, it is important that you use GM Goodwrench DEX-COOL@ or HAVOLINE DEX-COOL@ coolant. If Coolant other than DEX-COOLS or HAVOLINE DEX-COOL@ is added to the system the engine coolant will require change sooner-at 50 000 km (30,000 miles) or 24 months.

NOTICE: Do not use a solution stronger than 70% antifreeze. Pure antifreeze can freeze at -22°C (-8°F).

NOTICE: This engine uses DEX-COOLS and GM coolant supplement (sealant) P/N 3634621 specifically designed for use in aluminum engines. Failure to use the engine coolant supplement (sealant) and the approved coolant antifreeze could result in major engine damage.

When refilling the cooling system, add three pellets of the engine coolant supplement sealant GM P/N 3634621 to lower the radiator hose.

2. Refill the cooling system. In order to ensure sufficient Cooling System, freezing and corrosion protection, maintain the coolant protection level at -37°C (-34°F) or lower.

3. Set the heater and A/C control in any A/C mode except MAX. Set the temperature to the highest setting.

4. Allow the engine to continue idling until the lower radiator to coolant pump hose becomes hot.

5. Cycle the engine speed up to about 3,000 RPM and back to idle 5 times. On the VIN 1 engines, slowly open the bleed valve on the rear of the thermostat housing for about 15 seconds in order to release any trapped air in the cooling system.

6. After the air has been released, fill the radiator. Install the radiator pressure cap/surge tank. The arrows on the radiator pressure cap must line up with the coolant recovery tube.

7. Allow the engine to cool to the outside temperature. Check the coolant level. If the coolant level is not at the Add (of Full Cold) mark, add coolant until the coolant reaches the mark.

Response From suzanner

If there's 210 lbs pressure per cylinder and they all hold steady with no leaks will that void out a head gasket. It has good compression in all cylinders.

Response From Discretesignals

The static compression pressure in the cylinders doesn't hold because the pressure will bleed off through the rings. An engine's cylinder isn't perfectly sealed. The reason the pressure stays where it is on your gauge is because it has a check valve in it. This means you could have great compression, but still could be getting gasses into the coolant system.

A leak down test actually pressurizes the cylinders with compressed air. The tester tells you the leak down rate of the cylinder. Since it is using compressed air, it keeps the cylinder pressurized and any leaks going into the coolant system will show up as bubbling in the reservoir.

Response From suzanner

Heater hose is hot and building pressure