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1999 Olds Intrigue 3.5 117K
Just put in a water pump on my niece's dad's car. He said the check engine light was on so hooked the scanner up to it. Here are the codes.
He said that the car will "bog" down on occasion but does it more when backing out of a steep drive. Not sure if this matters but he said there's a tiny hole in the exhaust between the engine and catalytic converter. Would any of these codes be the cause of the bogging down? Other than that the car runs fine.
in first post you put p0042 and later you stated p0442.p0442 evap small leak detected.check all your evap lines for any splits.smoke machine works great for this.hard to find without smoke most of the time.was the light on before the water pump replacement?check the electrical connectors at the ignition module where the crank sensors plug in.
The first one is an 0/2 sensor heater issue but the other 3 all deal with a crank Sensor issue that needs to be looked into. It has 2 crank sensors and they are not jiving with each other.
To add to what Hammer just said, if this is a rust belter car look for plugs and wires to items. My own truck '97 was throwing an O2 code that would just self clear but knew which one (friends have all the stuff) and damn if the small cap rotted and wire finally fell out! Nothing wrong with the sensor. Did them all anyway - too much of a waste while there not to.
As for the hold? was one purposely put there or what's with that? Some will test exhaust restrictions (heard that don't do that myself) put a small hole to test the pressure pre cat. If something like that I think I'd thread it and put a nice stainless bolt in it - not too long of course,
For the first code my scanner said P0442 Generic Evaporative Emission System Leak Detected (small leak). Doesn't a scanner usually say it's an O2 Sensor? I believe you over this scanner I'm just curious why it wouldn't say O2 sensor.
If the two crankshaft sensors aren't jiving where would one start to troubleshoot that?
Tom....I didn't look myself but I would think the small hole in the exhaust is there because of rust.
The hole in the exhaust can skew the 0/2 readings but in your case it's a heater code so i doubt it has anything to do with the code. It's probably a bad sensor with a burned out heater.
Check this out MG. Its a Jeep in this video but it does help understand whats going on with the O2 code.
HT having troubles as you know MG. O2 codes can easily be set off by something else. This leak or hole between engine and cat is good pipe and most of the vintage put up with the rust. a crack or where it flexes more likely. I know - you aren't looking at it and need to. Not sure but I think the flex needed is right at the manifold could be a problem. If crack to be welded maybe watch out. I'm not so good at welding but that pipe's metal needs a specific rod or metal or it will not work making it harder later for a fix. No doubt bucks for that pipe if really needed. A leak there could confuse the show IMO.
Evap code? Gas cap OK? Was long ago with odd issues with a car here. Brainstormed for a couple pages and came up with cap got switched by person getting gas of all odd things to go wrong. They are part of the system to vent in at a specific Hg as fuel is consumed of course air must displace it and the fumes are to go thru the evap system to be burned as it's told to by dang computer and devices checking everything and decide when to burn it off in engine.
I may not have tons of time here today till later and don't have all the data or some other ideas on this. Hope others are watching too. We'll get this one too,
Hey guys. New to the forum here and have an issue. I have a 2004 impala 3.8 with some serious overheating issues.
This past June, it overheated on me due to the plastic heater core elbow rupturing. During the repair of this part, I replaced the thermostat, the water pump, and the elbow. Everything has been working fine up until this week when the car would start to overheat while idling. Also the heater would start blowing cool air until the thermostat would open up and the gauge would go back down (I assume). After a couple days of this it began to get hot while driving as well.
Just this morning I replaced the thermostat which seemed to help for a little while, however after driving for about half an hour the gauge began to creep up again. While looking at the engine while hot I touched the elbow and it split open big time, spraying me in the face with some extremely hot antifreeze. I guess what I'm asking is this, does this sound like it had a small leak at the heater core elbow due to degradation or does it sound like maybe the water pump I bought crapped out on me? Doing the work doesn't scare me I'd just like some opinions or first hand experiences so I don't waste any more time or money than necessary. Thanks in advance.
I addition to leak checking the system you want to verify that the cooling fans are coming on..
You're first step is pressure testing the cooling system to find the leak. The intake problem that MG referred to is quite common mainly in the 3.1, 3.4, 4.3 and the small block V8s. The 3.8s aren't as common.
Thanks for the reply guys. Not sure about the pressure yet, but I did replace the heater core intake tubing this morning. It actually didn't help at all even though it was broke inside the belt tensioner housing. I did notice that my radiator didn't want to take coolant so that may be where I nee to look next.
We have a 2002 Chevy Venture with the 3.4L. About 8 months ago it acted almost exactly how you're describing. The heater would blow cold air until the thermostat opened up. It would then blow hot air and the temperature gauge would go back down. At first I figured it was the thermostat so replaced it. It didn't fix anything. After a few days it got hot while driving also.
The 3.1, 3.4 and 3.8 are notoriously known for bad lower intake gaskets. There is an improved design that replaces GM's originally faulty design. The mechanics here told me to look on the back driver's side of the engine with a mirror. I had to take the air duct off to see, but once I did, I could see some slight bubbling from the intake.
Don't go tearing into it until the mechanics on here give you some better advice but I'd put my money on the intake though.
I know I had the 3.4 but I might have some pictures from when I did mine. I'm sure they are somewhat similar. If you need me to post any pics just let me know.
I have a 1984 Cadillac DeVille with a 4.1L 250 engine and need to replace the water pump. the parts stores want to know if I have a bypass tube on mine or not. What is it and where would it be if I had one?
Just hunted parts as a clue. Two different sources. Seems the 4.1 didn't use a hose for bypass system. Could be that it's metal, built into water pump, or isn't a specific part # but rather generic cooling system hose.
Roughly 1% of the engines for these were a 5.7 diesel - I think based on an Olds block which was just a couple inch piece of hose from water pump to thermostat if I recall correctly. You would just use heater hose (generic) and cut a piece of so and they are a pill as the two spouts are so close together you need to either heat the piece up so it's soft or remove the thermostat housing if I recall.
Not an issue as you said it wasn't that engine. It may be a metal tube that's popular to go bad. When back at parts store see what they are referring to and take a pic of your water pump with you,
I thought it might be something similar to what I've seen before where there was a 3 or 4 inch tube near the thermostat housing that where the heater hoses connected. This one doesn't have that but since this is a special order part I wanted to try to find out for sure. I'll probably just pull the pump and take it with me when I order the new one.
Autozone list two pumps?
Without built in bypass tube looks like this.........
With bypass tube looks like this.......
I'm not seeing the total difference? Can't always go by the pics but that site is pretty good. Apparently neither list a hose??
Here's the site..........
Check others too, NAPA on line, O'Reileys, Advance Auto - anyplace that shows good pics could save you a hassle - having the old on the counter helps the most but call ahead to see if they have it. Real parts stores if you call by 10am if it's warehoused locally you'll have it by 2pm or at least places I deal with. Good luck,
I've heard a couple different answers on other forums. One said it's a small tube at the bottom of the pump that has a hose going to the coolant overflow reservoir. The other said it's a small tube at the top of the pump that goes into the intake manifold. Either way it's supposed to bypass the thermostat when it's closed. My pump has neither one so I ordered the pump without the bypass tube.
Now I'm having trouble getting the old one off. There's a pulley on the front of the block under the power steering pump on the driver's side with a bolt through the center that needs a 3/8" hex wrench to take the pulley off. I can't get the bolt loose. The pulley turns free and there's no way to stop it from spinning to loosen the bolt. There's a bolt holding the water pump on that backs out right into the back side of this pulley and I can't get that bolt out so the water pump is still attached by that one bolt. The bolt that goes into the water pump is loose but it backs out into that pulley so it won't come out all the way to get the pump off.
Of course I'm not looking at the exact situation but have been thru zillions over the ions. A multi bolted pulley should be loosened with belt still on or use a stud and move along. If just one in center it may be pressed on so you would look to remove the whole thing if possible. Others have holes for access thru the pulley to something behind it.
Watch out with ratcheting box wrenches if used! If not the switch and reverse type (like GearWrench makes) you can back off a bolt and be unable to get wrench out - a stalemate of sorts!
Air tools and PB (power blaster penetrating oil) can be your best friend. Takes basic understanding how NOT to break off bolts! An art in itself sometimes as extracting flush broken ones can be a nightmare. Ones that are real sticky but have moved some ok go back and tighten carefully back and forth with more PB on threads. Sucks when they break when almost out!
Look hard again at the pulley in the way. Whole unit must cooperate somehow. It may have bracketing back/over to under a motor mount or something to cause bad language!
Use all caution not to bend up a pulley trying to hold it for a bolt. If bent up it will need to be replaced.
Can take a bunch of tools for what seems simple.
Make damn sure you get the correct water pump matched on the counter as you sure don't want to be back there again. Hang in there,
Thanks for the advice. I already have have the car apart and then found out I had one more bolt behind this pulley. The center bolt wouldn't break at all and all the belts and everything are already off. It started to get dark so I loaded it up with PB and called it a night. I'll try again tomorrow. There's no holes or anything in this pulley to hold it from spinning so I might have to get a little imaginative. Maybe I'll get lucky in the morning.
Get some rest and think about the approach in the morning. I'll be away most of am but whoever here or wherever watching may have ideas.
What does this pulley that's a pain go to? It would help me find out how it might come out,
It doesn't really go to anything. It's just for the belts to go around. It sits under what I believe is the power steering pump. There's a skinny belt that connects the two of these and then a wider belt that goes to the AC compressor. I took some pictures but I haven't figured out how to post them here yet. If I can I'll post some pics.
Hopefully I just uploaded some pictures as attachments. I couldn't figure out how else to do it.
&size=128It looks like that worked. Hope that helps a little.
I guess that didn't work after all.
Pic posting from your own stuff can be a pill. It won't take stuff from my own puter here but will from near anywhere else. A setting or some geeky thing that prohibits my own?? Try them as an attachment and then I can post them,
I tried attachments in post #10 and just tried again here. Hopefully these will work.
(edit - post pics direct - don't ask how or why this works?? Nice pics for archives - Tom)
It rained all say today so I didn't do anything. The bolt that won't come loose is behind the fan blade but you can see the pulley I'm talking about.
Not sure what you are trying to do here but what you have marked in those pictures is the power steering pulley which is pressed on to the pump. There is no bolt in the end. That is just a hex hole in the end of the shaft. The one above it is the air pump. You need a special puller to pull that pulley off the pump.
The pulley I have marked pulley, is that what you're saying is pressed on the power steering pump? It doesn't look like there's anything at all behind it. What's the thing I have marked "power steering?" ?
That's a vacuum pump that is labeled p/s pump.
On this model the p/s pump pulley needs to be removed to r&r the water pump. The pulley is pressed onto the pump and special puller is required to remove it... Some parts houses will rent the puller.......
Posted the pics direct - came out huge but nice archives. PS pump pulley is pressed on as said. Rent-able? Yes at many parts outlets or perhaps not that expensive - I forgot what mine cost
Use of temps can help with pressed stuff - races, pulleys etc., put part you need smaller in your freezer if allowed (CAUTION! CAN CAUSE DOMESTIC PROBLEMS!) and they'll go back on/in better,
Thanks for the tips so far. Now I remember why I quit working on my own cars. I had a puller and tried pulling off the pulley from the power steering pump and it just twisted the arms on the puller. I had another puller from when I was a machinist so I tried that one. I had to grind just a little bit off the legs and it fit perfect over the end of the pulley. This is a solid piece with nothing to twist and nice and short so the pressure was nice and uniform. The legs fit perfect in the groove on the end of the pulley and all it did was start to bend up and cut through the end of the pulley. I tried tapping the pulley while the pressure was pulling. It was soaked with power blaster 2 days ago and again this morning so that had plenty of time to sit.
This pulley still doesn't want to come off. Is it safe to use heat on this? Will I damage the pump if I use heat? I really need some help here guys.
I've been working on my own cars for 30 years and I'm restoring a '52 MG so I'm not a total amatuer. I also built a couple muscle cars back in the 70's & 80's. I did stop doing my own work when I could finally afford newer cars about 10 years ago but now I'm disabled and divorced and had to buy an older car agian. I do have the background and all the basics even if I need to be reminded of some of this stuff once in a while. I've always taught myself so don't always know the proper names or terms but the basics are there. I do appreciate any help you can give me.
Thanks a lot,
Thanks, I went to the parts store to rent one and they didn't have one to rent but tried to sell me a jaw type that said power steering puller for $30 so I tried my jaw type because it was the similar. It didn't work obviously. I can't afford to spend $30 on something I'll never use again but I may not have a choice.
Thanks for the pics, I know what to look for now.
If you live near an AutoZone or Advanced Auto parts, most of them have loaner or rental programs.
most likely if you used a 3 jaw on it the pulley is trashed. I know some excellent parts guys that know what they are talking about, and I know some whose hands I have to hold just to get an order in. Problem is when you aren't familiar with whats needing to happen and don't deal with a certain store enough to know who is good and who isn't. I hate to sound mean, but when I'm busy and call my local NAPA or O'Reillys I hang up if a certain employee that I know isn't competent answers. I call back later. They may be barely able to find an oil filter or something simple, but if they were that good at working on cars they honestly wouldn't be parts guys. They'd be mechanics. Some of them used to be mechanics and got into the parts store due to health problems. Those are the guys you want. Especially the old timers. They know all the tricks. But when a guy tells you that a 3 jaw is just as good as a power steering puller he should be taken out in the moonlight and beaten with hammers. If a 3 jaw was good enough, why would they make a special puller for power steering pulleys? Also remember that it takes a special tool to put it on without wrecking it as well. Like Hammer said, many parts store loan tools and you need to talk with them about those tools before you blow too much coin on this.
Thanks to everyone who helped. I bought a puller and it was a piece of cake to pull the pulley and reinstall later. I'll probably never use this tool again but it was worth the $35 just to get the job done right.
Thanks for the follow up. $35 bucks is nothing in this biz. Have a boat load of "one-time" tools and can't do certain things without them. Way it goes,
Before you even take that pulley off, rotate it and measure whether there is any runout to the pulley at all. If the pulley was bent at all from that jaw puller, then plan on getting another one before it goes back together. That one is ruined.
Hammer said it - you can't fake what kind of puller and get the right one. It's been that style for those for ions, looks just like the one I have predating the invention of the wheel!
Forget $30 if that's all it is. (seems too low to me) That will look cheap vs a new pump and pulley if bent/damaged! If you can't rent it, sell the tool, buy a decent one and it will sell but make sure you are done and all is working.
You may need that tool if pulley is trashed now just to replace it so think about owning it if you want to fix your own stuff,