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GMB
2005 Jeep TJ Engine Water Pump 4 Cyl 2.4L GMB

P311-2FA02CE    120-4220  New

41006 , AW7156 , 4694309 , 4694307AB , 1520603 , 1463452 , P2422 , 1694307 , 117060 , 160060383 , A204220 , 96137 , T1193 , NP017156 , WPC28L , 04884161AA , ELGWP7156 , 4694307AC , NP1630 , 4694307AE , 4694309AC , 10554 , 04884160AA , CP7156 , 58542 , PA1485 , 23300 , 5533615 , US7156 , AWP9108 , 4694307AA , MBA052422 , 1694307AB , 04884159AA , 181585 , 511859 , 58610 , W1204220 , P1630 , 41327A , GWCR39A , 4694307AF , 2632669 , HYT17060C , FP2452 , RCWP1630 , WP151 , 252725 , 1204220 , 4694307 , 4694307ACR

Qty:
30.90
GMB Engine Water Pump
Brand: GMB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Jeep TJ L 4 Cyl 2.4L 148 -
GMB
1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Engine Water Pump 8 Cyl 5.2L GMB

P311-52A605B    120-3041  New

53020135 , 252523 , US7160 , MBA05951 , 4851178AA , 160067610 , B951 , B1550 , C203041 , 10550H , 98170 , CP7160 , 58560 , 40155A , ELGWP7160 , HYT17055C , AW7160 , 53021018AD , FP2154 , 4851178AB , 1203041 , 53020280 , 53021018AG , PA1484 , 181438 , P1669 , 53021018AC , 1462572 , 181070 , TVI7160 , 5533314 , T4170 , CVC9126 , 4851178AD , 2283154 , NP1669 , 7087X , QAW7160 , 53021018AF , 43034 , FP2388 , 10550 , 43165 , CWP9126 , WH7032 , P1550 , AW7143 , RCWP1669 , RCWP1550 , 68382493AA , P951 , 10550P , ELGWP7143 , CP7143 , NP017160 , 53021018 , 317055 , GWCR36A , 2639303 , 43160 , 58481 , 511863 , 4851178AC , 53021018AB

Qty:
43.67
GMB Engine Water Pump
  • ; OE Replacement
Brand: GMB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1998 - Jeep Grand Cherokee V 8 Cyl 5.2L 318 5211
GMB
1995 Jeep Wrangler Engine Water Pump 4 Cyl 2.5L GMB

P311-4F31747    110-1090  New

B932 , T2220 , 4626054AB , 2282402 , 4626054AD , 70153 , TVI7136 , 4626054AC , 29495 , 23136 , 181059 , US7136 , BWP853 , 1809 , W153 , P1653 , CP7136 , 4626054 , 511844 , WP877 , WP151 , B1509 , WP7136 , 5533136 , FP2044 , WPCR01 , QAW7136 , 2853 , 1462580 , 1101090 , 40325B , NP017136 , 87674675956 , WH2047 , AW7136 , 97118 , 217038 , ELGWP7136 , MBA05932 , 4626054AE , 4626054AF , 701469 , P1509 , 42005 , 58699 , NP1509 , B101090 , 58448 , HYT17038C , GWAM09A , 7097220 , P932 , 160067532 , W124N , 252279

Qty:
25.94
GMB Engine Water Pump
  • ; OE Replacement
  • Product Attributes:
    • Hub Height: 3.23
    • Hub Pilot Diameter: 2.62
    • Impeller Material: Metal
    • Impeller Rotation: Reverse
    • Mounting Hardware Included: 1 Paper Gasket
    • Pulley Type: Flange
    • Water Pump Drive Type: Chain
Brand: GMB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1995 - Jeep Wrangler L 4 Cyl 2.5L 150 -
GMB
2010 Jeep Liberty Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 3.7L GMB

P311-2527EC6    120-4350  New

53020873AC , 43263 , 43163 , 5179734AA , 181627 , PA10157 , 5302189AC , NP017163 , 40602A , 1204350 , 68045797AA , AW7163 , B534 , CVC9240 , 1463654 , 53022189AA , 511866 , 30590 , P927 , 160094096 , 73301 , RCWP7163 , P1668 , 53022189AG , 53022189AB , 53022189AF , NP1668 , 53021187AA , WP8109RP , 53021187AC , 5533418 , 53020873AB , 53022189AC , CP7163 , 58572 , 58719 , 5302058AA , 252813 , 53022058AA , CWP9240 , 317061 , HYT17061C , 53020873 , 53022189AH , MBA05927 , 5302189AB , C204350 , 5302189AA , 2680942 , 98209 , FP2526 , T4191 , ELGWP7163 , US7163 , 53022189AD

Qty:
44.80
GMB Engine Water Pump
  • ; Plastic Impeller
Brand: GMB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2010 - Jeep Liberty V 6 Cyl 3.7L 226 -
GMB
1989 Jeep Wagoneer Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 4.0L GMB

P311-1259DBC    110-1080  New

W119 , 3555556833 , MBA05886 , NP013412 , TVI3412 , 4626215AF , 511639 , JR775122 , 1312133 , 42004 , WP3133RP , WPCR02 , WP150 , CP3412 , PA10069 , 26938 , 85503407 , 803503407 , P1348 , 2724 , T2211 , 58455 , R4626215 , GWAM08A , 18546 , W1795 , 7091170 , 4626215 , FP1938 , 4626215AC , 100455 , 23412 , PA1483 , BWP724 , US3412 , 83503407 , 04626215AF , 2282086 , P886 , 58352 , 5533116 , 29860 , W154 , W119N , ELGWP3412 , HYT19009C , 1462602 , RCWP1348 , 160066301 , 40154A , W151 , 252191 , 97082 , 219009 , WH2042 , 87674567008 , 619425 , 4637027 , 58455H , QAW3412 , 51270 , WP3412 , V9900083 , AW3412 , 70151 , 70154 , 4626215AD , B886 , 1101080 , WP844 , NP1348 , 4626215AE , 4626215AB

Qty:
24.54
GMB Engine Water Pump
  • ; OE Replacement
  • Product Attributes:
    • Hub Height: 2.35
    • Hub Pilot Diameter: 3.29
    • Impeller Material: Metal
    • Impeller Rotation: Reverse
    • Mounting Hardware Included: 1 Paper Gasket
    • Pulley Type: Flange
    • Water Pump Drive Type: Chain
Brand: GMB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1989 - Jeep Wagoneer L 6 Cyl 4.0L 242 -
GMB
2006 Jeep Wrangler Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 4.0L GMB

P311-2515353    120-4340  New

511867 , 252799 , 53010378AC , 5012366AC , B204340 , MBA057164 , 5012366AD , NP017164 , 5012366AE , 97215 , 5012366AF , 181605 , 5533315 , 42293 , 160060387 , 2666303 , 5012366AA , 219020 , 53010417 , RCWP7164 , 1204340 , CP7164 , NP1667 , GWAM10A , US7164 , HYT19020C , ELGWP7164 , FP2527 , 40601A , BVC9200 , 5012366AB , P7164 , BWP9200 , T2255 , AW7164 , 58551 , P1667 , 1463646 , 33000 , 30225

Qty:
35.16
GMB Engine Water Pump
Brand: GMB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Jeep Wrangler L 6 Cyl 4.0L 242 -
GMB
2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee Engine Water Pump 8 Cyl 5.7L GMB

P311-34D7F10    120-7150  New

US8940 , EWP9377 , 512243 , AW7170 , 181901 , 014792838AA , 2731041 , 4792838AB , 160008480 , 517066 , 1207150 , 43543 , P9377 , DWP9377 , 33170 , T5103 , 99186 , 58645 , 252899 , CP7170 , 5533515 , 4792838AA , WP1160 , NP017170 , 19253261

Qty:
68.86
GMB Engine Water Pump
Brand: GMB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Jeep Grand Cherokee V 8 Cyl 5.7L 345 -
GMB
2011 Jeep Wrangler Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 3.8L GMB

P311-57B72CA    120-2010  New

US8960 , 97509 , 4666044AA , 4666044BA , 1202010 , 217075 , 80021 , 512501 , 4666044BB , 42588 , 1600277022 , T2293 , CP6189 , AW6189 , P1219 , NP016189 , 58652 , BWP2119 , 5533317 , 181947

Qty:
39.00
GMB Engine Water Pump
Brand: GMB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Jeep Wrangler V 6 Cyl 3.8L 231 3778
Gates
2011 Jeep Wrangler Engine Water Pump Gates

P311-1CC64C8    W0133-1954475  New

Qty:
82.90
Gates Engine Water Pump
  • Standard
Brand: Gates
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2011 - Jeep Wrangler
Metrix
2006 Jeep TJ Engine Water Pump 4 Cyl 2.4L Metrix

P311-1A5B212    W0133-1957454  New

Qty:
36.15
Metrix Engine Water Pump
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Jeep TJ L 4 Cyl 2.4L 148 -
GMB
2003 Jeep Liberty Engine Water Pump 4 Cyl 2.4L GMB

P311-3FC127D    W0133-1957454  New

Qty:
56.02
GMB Engine Water Pump
Brand: GMB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2003 - Jeep Liberty L 4 Cyl 2.4L 148 -
Gates
2007 Jeep Commander Engine Water Pump 8 Cyl 5.7L Gates

P311-2AA0B49    W0133-1852996  New

Qty:
152.89
Gates Engine Water Pump
  • Standard
Brand: Gates
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Jeep Commander V 8 Cyl 5.7L 345 -
GMB
2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Engine Water Pump 8 Cyl 4.7L GMB

P311-1BE2922    W0133-2215476  New

Qty:
77.58
GMB Engine Water Pump
Brand: GMB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2001 - Jeep Grand Cherokee V 8 Cyl 4.7L 287 -
GMB
2007 Jeep Commander Engine Water Pump 8 Cyl 4.7L GMB

P311-1BE2922    W0133-2215476  New

Qty:
77.58
GMB Engine Water Pump
  • ; Pump Only
Brand: GMB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Jeep Commander V 8 Cyl 4.7L 287 -
GMB
1992 Jeep Cherokee Engine Water Pump 4 Cyl 2.5L GMB

P311-0F42ADC    W0133-2358382  New

Qty:
39.07
GMB Engine Water Pump
Brand: GMB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1992 - Jeep Cherokee L 4 Cyl 2.5L 150 -
GMB
1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 4.0L GMB

P311-1C6EB1E    W0133-2547592  New

Qty:
60.76
GMB Engine Water Pump
Brand: GMB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1999 - Jeep Grand Cherokee L 6 Cyl 4.0L 242 -
GMB
1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Engine Water Pump 8 Cyl 5.2L GMB - - with Gasket

P311-5CC34E9    W0133-2575813  New

Qty:
71.71
GMB Engine Water Pump
  • - with Gasket
Brand: GMB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1996 - Jeep Grand Cherokee V 8 Cyl 5.2L 318 5211

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Overheating

Showing 2 out of 13 Posts | Show 11 Hidden Posts
Question From Gatech04 on 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee - Overheating

Good Afternoon,

My 01 Jeep Grand Cherokee recently started overheating and I was hoping to find some help pinpointing the problem. So far Ive replaced the radiator cap and thermostat - neither of which seemed to help. I even took the thermostat out all together and that didnt seem to work.



Here are my most recent observations from the other night (with thermostat still removed):

It took 6-7 minutes to reach a running temp of 210 just idling. Once there, it took only about a minute to get up near 260 when I turned it off.

While running, the large fan directly next to the serpentine belt was running continuously, but the smaller fan nearer the radiator never came on. I didnt try turning the AC though, I'll have to wait for it to cool down and I'll recheck that. I did try the heat while it was running though and only cool air came out.

After I turned it off, the upper radiator hose was very hot to the touch, the radiator cap was warm, the lower radiator hose was cool and both heater core lines were cool to the touch once you got far enough away from the thermostat (hence the lack of heat I assume).

When the engine is off, the large fan nearest the water pump only turns if I have consitent pressure on the blade and the smaller fan nearer the radiator "freewheels".

There are no apparent leaks (no coolant on the ground, no obvious leaks at the thermostat/pump/radiator/hoses/heater core).




Any help in narrowing down the problem would be greatly appreciated? Please let me know if you need more information of if I should snap some pictures.

Here's a video I made of it running with the rad cap off. I didnt let the engine even get to normal running temp, since a good bit of coolant was overflowing and I didnt want to make a toxic mess. I did have the AC on full blast and the little aux. fan never came on, but the temperature never got to 210 either, so Im not sure if that is normal.




Thank you

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Pardon my jumping in;
Gatech04; Just watched the video. Is this with the thermostat in, or out? I believe that this engine has a clutch fan as well as an auxillary electric fan for the A/C operation? At temperature, the clutch fan should be 'locked up' and not freewheeling as you stated. I also saw air bubbles coming out of the radiator, indicating either air is still in the system from lack of 'bleeding' or is being put into the system from a head gasket leak which will cause overheating. With the type of 'neck' on the radiator, you may not be able to see if it is flowing coolant unless you lower the coolant level down to where you can see the cores, if at all. As Sidom stated, running it without a thermostat will cause overheating problems, so you don't want to do that, but it is a good test for checking flow. The thermostat is there for a couple of reasons. It keeps the engine at a specified temp (195F-210F is normal) and allows time for the water in the radiator to cool down before re-entering the engine when the stat opens.

Response From Gatech04

The video was with the thermostat out. I havent noticed anything odd with the oil to indicate a leak into a head gasket - but I'll double check both the dipstick and oil fill area.

My comments on the fan were with the Jeep off. The larger of the two fans - the clutch fan? - was not freewheeling, but the smaller one in between that one and the radiator would freewheel.

I was planning on changing out the water pump on Mon/Tue (I wont have time to work on it till then) and at the same time I would be draining the coolant and re-inserting the thermostat. Does this sound like my next step? or are there other things I should try before doing this.



I would take on the heater hoses off close to the water pump & see if the there is good flow off the pump



Im not real sure what this means. Should I take the hose that goes from the thermostat housing to the heater core off, then turn on the engine (without the thermostat in) and see if coolant is being pumped through the hose (to the heater core). If not, that would indicate a bad impeller. Since the 2 hoses going to/from the heater core remained cool to the touch, and since the heater doesnt work now - that would be the indication right?

Sorry that Im not too familiar with these types of things, I am enjoying learning though!

Thank you!

Response From Sidom



Im not real sure what this means. Should I take the hose that goes from the thermostat housing to the heater core off, then turn on the engine (without the thermostat in) and see if coolant is being pumped through the hose (to the heater core). If not, that would indicate a bad impeller.



Yes, you're just looking to see if the pump is capable of genrating some good flow. Im memory serves me correct (which ½ the time is don't) there is a steel tube coming off the pump for the heater hose, you could use that line, or Loren's suggestion of the upper hose, either will work & either will make a heck of mess if the pump is good, so prepare accordingly. Impellers problems are definately the less common ones and I wouldn't change the pump "just because" but if you aren't getting any flow off the pump, that's problem.... The a boroscope would be nice, but I don't imagine you have on of those.....

Loren has given some real good steps to find the prob...... I would probably follow those 1st.........

Response From Gatech04

Well I finally had time to work on it again Tuesday night. Turns out the plastic impeller had broken loose from the shaft. I got it fixed and put back together, added a new serp. belt and flushed the radiator. Everything is working great now!

Thanks for all the help!

GT

Response From Sidom

Glad to hear you found and fixed the problem.....good job........ Thx 4 coming backing with the results to your problem........ You may help someone in the future......

Response From lovemyjeeps

I have the same problem described here on my 2001 Cherokee Classic. I just did the upper radiator hose test and only got steam even as temp reached 210. Any sugestions?

Response From Discretesignals

You need to start your own thread please.

Read this on how to create a thread:


http://autoforums.carjunky.com/Automotive_Repair_C1/Engine_Troubles_F16/FORUM_RULES_%3D%3D%3D%3D_READ_BEFORE_POSTING_P122997/

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Gatech; How did your cooling system look before you drained and filled? Was it very rusty? Not that it matters much, now, but I'm thinking of the water pump impeller as Sidom had mentioned. If the system was very rusty, it is possible that the impeller has rusted away enough to affect flow. It is very rare, but I've also seen the impeller come loose from the hub. (originally, pressed on) Another thing is a plugged radiator. For the following tests, drain and save your anti-freeze so you can re-use it. Fill the radiator with water. Remove the lower radiator hose. The water should gush out. Using a garden hose, you shouldn't be able to keep up with the water flowing out of the bottom of the radiator. Another test, although may be hard to do, at normal operating temperature, feel the radiator with your hand. The temperature should be equal, throughout. If you feel a spot that is cool, then it is plugged. With the thermostat still out and the engine idling and cold, remove the upper radiator hose. Careful that you don't get a bath. It should shoot water out like a firehose. Of course, only run it for a few seconds to watch the flow from the water pump. If you didn't know, cold water from the radiator goes into the water pump, then throughout the engine, then back into the radiator through the upper radiator hose past the thermostat when it opens. So, it's normal for the lower hose to be cool and the upper hose to be hot.
Now, back to the head gasket issue. Head gaskets generally will blow into an exhaust port, rather than into the crankcase. So, pretty common to see a blown head gasket with no water in the oil. This is an easy test. Either with a chemical, available from most parts stores, or with an exhaust gas analyzer which any shop that does emission repairs, will have. That's actually where I'd start, first. Eliminating, or confirming, the head gasket.

Response From Guest

Thank you for the reply!

I actually havent drained the system yet. I lost some coolant each of the 2 times I overheated on the road due to the hot coolant overfilling the resevoir and spilling out the overflow until everything cooled down.

When I changed the thermostat and subsequently removed it again, I just let the coolant/water fall as I was on the side of the road (I know - bad).

I'll be sure to do the radiator tests you mentioned on monday when I drain the radiator. I'll probably pick up the exhaust test tomorrow though to clear that issue.

I'll try to take pictures and videos throughout the processes so those smarter than I in these areas can keep me on track!

Thanks again for all the help!

Response From Gatech04

Looks like I forgot to log in (came here via link in update email) but that last reply was me!

I think this will be my tentative process from here:

1) Check exhaust
2) Drain Radiator
3) Fill with water
4) Perform flow test at bottom rad hose
5) Perform flow test at upper rad hose
6) Remove water pump and inspect for damaged impeller
7) .... Fix it!

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

You'll get it! Let us know how it goes.

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

On that problem I would probably be looking for a flow problem. With no t stat you should have circulation right away. I would take on the heater hoses off close to the water pump & see if the there is good flow off the pump. If you aren't getting a good stream, I would inspect the impeller on the water pump.

1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee “maybe” water pump problem.

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From WestCoastWilson on 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee “maybe” water pump problem.

I have a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited, 3.0 engine (6 cylinders), with approximately 175,000 miles.

I purchased my Jeep brand new, I really like my Jeep, and it has served me well over the years. Of course since 1996, I have had the regular troubles that go wrong with an aging vehicle.

Since I just discovered this discussion board, I thought I would try my luck to see what type of helpful information I may get.

About a month ago, a high pitched blowing air type noise started in the engine compartment. Yet I did not think much of it since my Jeep drove normally and it did not appear to be an engine problem, yet the coolant level low light came on about a week after the high pitch noise started. So I could see that the radiator was full, but upon looking at the coolant reservoir, the coolant was about 1/2 inch below the fill line, yet the reservoir was about 3/4ths full. So I added enough coolant back up to the fill line, in the reservoir. The high pitched blowing air type noise continued, yet from time-to-time, I could see a fine white steam vapor coming out the grill of my Jeep. Yet every time I popped the hood, the vapor was no longer visible and nor could I see where it might be coming from. Yet I could not see any other problems at that time. Then just up out of the blue while driving down a neighborhood street, a loud ongoing helicopter like noise started in the engine compartment, just a few days ago. The noise was louder when stopped vs. driving. When I pulled up in my driveway and popped the hood, I could not see anything out of the ordinary (as I thought a fan belt broke originally). Yet I knew something was wrong. So I backed out of the driveway, and then that is when I saw a coolant spot on the driveway, it was about 3 ½ inches in diameter. Yet I looked in the garage (the spot where I park my Jeep), I see no coolant on the floor. So after doing some research online, I am about 75% sure it is the water pump . . . since I believe the helicopter noise is being caused by the water pump ball bearings going bad. However other than the one day, I do not see any coolant leaking and the coolant level in both the radiator and reservoir remain full.

Since I am low on funds right now, due to the economy and our $3.80 gallon gas in Los Angeles (today), how long of a life does a water pump typically have when it is making all of these loud noises?

Since I am not mechanically inclined, I can not install a new water pump or fix this problem myself, and nor can I afford to take it to the Jeep dealer. Yet at the end of this month, I expect to scrape up enough money to get it fixed if the repair cost is not too expensive.

Though there does not appear to be any coolant leaking, am I causing any damage by driving? I can live with the loud water pump noise until I get it fixed . . . as it kinda sounds like the first generation of Diesel cars we had back in the 70's. LOL!!!

Yet it seems that every since that helicopter noise started, I now smell coolant fluid whenever the engine is warm/hot . . . but not when it is cold. However, I have only driven my Jeep once since the helicopter noise started.

Now with that being said, while doing some of my Internet research, someone had suggested to someone (in order to save money), that they might consider going to one of their local Technical Schools for their water pump repair, as they tend to charge a minimal amount vs. going to the dealer or to a ma-and-pa garage. It sounds like a great idea, which I had never considered before, since I never had thought about going to a Technical School for my auto repair needs. Yet as I pondered that thought, I know people do go to barber and beautician schools for cut-rate haircuts and hair styling (usually with mixed results). However upon reading online about a water pump repair, it seems that replacing a water pump is a simple and quick job “if” you know what you are doing, so that is why I was wondering what might happen if I take it to a Technical School . . . as it sounds like something that they could do quick and easy.

Plus I also would like to know, if it is in fact that my water pump going bad, how long does it typically take before the water pump dies and is it safe to drive a vehicle when the water pump “is going” bad?

Your thoughts?

Wilson

Response From Hammer Time

I hate to break the news to you but your car is not drivable now. It's on the verge of coming apart and doing a low more damage. If you overheat the engine before it comes apart, you'll be looking at a couple thousand in repairs.

Response From WestCoastWilson Top Rated Answer

Thanks Hammer Time. I appreciate your help and input.

Wilson

93 Jeep Cherokee Problems

Showing 2 out of 13 Posts | Show 11 Hidden Posts
Question From jdsimons2 on 93 Jeep Cherokee Problems

Hi! New to this forum, hoping for some assistance, I know next to nothing about cars, but love to troubleshoot!

My wife's 93 Jeep Cherokee died on her the other morning. It started to smoke, smelled like burning rubber, and was squeeling really bad. It didn't smoke immediately, but only after a minute or 2 of "driving" (going from the street in front of the Apartment to the parking spot).

I popped open the hood and found out where the squeeling and smoke was coming from. It was coming from some sort of belt, or below the belt on the bottom half of the picture. Below is a picture:



Any help would be appreciated! :)

Response From Hammer Time

Your A/C compressor has seized up. Believe me, you don't want to fix this yourself. A/C repairs look simple but require extensive knowledge about how refrigeration works and exactly what other things will have to be done to the vehicle and there will be many. Take it to a reputable A/C shop.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Yes - squealing really bad would point to a compressor failure. Wet belt was what I was thinking as it looked messy in that area,

T

Response From Hammer Time

Smoke, burning rubber smell and squeal after 2 minutes of driving??????? That's a compressor.

Unplug the compressor until you get it fixed.

Response From jdsimons2


Smoke, burning rubber smell and squeal after 2 minutes of driving??????? That's a compressor.

Unplug the compressor until you get it fixed.

Is the car still drivable with the compressor unplugged? What I'm trying to do is get the car into "sellable" shape, since we have moved on from this Jeep :)

Response From Hammer Time

Assuming the clutch is good and the problem is internal to the compressor, unplugging it will prevent it from coming on and make it drivable but you won't have any A/C. You're looking at a big job there.

Response From chickenhouse

IF in fact the a/c belt is dedicated, cut it!

Response From Hammer Time

It is not

Response From chickenhouse

ok, see it in the pic now.

Response From Discretesignals

Wow, looks like original hoses and still seems to be using R-12. If it was smoking and squealing without the compressor clutch engaged, something else is going on. Turn the drive plate on the front of the ac compressor. You should be able to rotate it. As Tom noted, what is all that moisture on top of the radiator and front of the engine? You have a coolant leak?

Response From chickenhouse

If in fact the compressor is the problem, cut the belt and remove it. Drivable then.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

cut the belt and remove it. Drivable then.

No, that would not be a good idea. You may have some serious issues without the alternator, water pump and power steering.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Smoke and odor probably a coolant leak up front being blown around to something hot or alone. Pressure test and it should show itself.

Get rid of that temporary hack job to fix a battery cable too as that will be a problem soon. That type repair is really for an emergency only,

T

Jeep Overheating

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Question From bigdaddy13 on Jeep Overheating

I have a 2000 jeep wrangler with 120,000 mile, it has the 4.0l motor. I've change the radatior, and thermos.; and still having ploblem. It not losing water and the water pump i changed last year. I have notice the heater doesn't blow hot so i think there is a flow problem and advise would be great!

Response From Hammer Time

If the heater doesn't blow hot then that mean that it's either plugged up with sludge which will also be throughout the cooling system or it has an air pocket because the system is not full of coolant or it has a blow head gasket.

Response From bigdaddy13

thanks for info

Response From bigdaddy13 Top Rated Answer

to check is gasket is blow i was told to put pressure gauge on cap, start and run motor if pressure build then gasket is blow. Is that a good way to check?

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Agree with HT...Also, a gas analyzer can be used to check for HC's present in the cooling system (easier, cheaper test). If you have a $10K analyzer.

Response From Hammer Time

No, you can't do that. All systems build pressure as heated. They have chemical tests for that.

1994 jeep cherokee overheating

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From Guest on 1994 jeep cherokee overheating

replaced water pump and thermostat radiator not leaking but fluids are over flowing out of neck im not sure if thats ok or not.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

To add; Make sure you have all of the air worked out of the system..An air pocket can cause the headache you mention. Have the radiator cap pressure tested, as well.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Previous overheating could have done damage to the engine such as a blown head gasket or something on that idea. What you need to do is pressure test the cooling system to determine if it's losing any pressure/coolant anywhere..