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The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • ACDelco
    ACDelco
  • AISIN
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  • Airtex
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  • Beck Arnley
    Beck Arnley
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  • US Motor Works
    US Motor Works

Best Selling Genuine Hyundai Water Pumps

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including GMB, AISIN, Genuine, Metrix
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Hyundai Replacement Water Pump Parts

GMB
2000 Hyundai Tiburon Engine Water Pump 4 Cyl 2.0L GMB

P311-5809A56    146-2020  New

2510023022 , AWP9137 , 2643262 , HYT26050C , 1312296 , 1462020 , 2510023002 , 1463604 , 2510023010 , NP1715 , A462020 , 252843 , NP5327 , 8447 , 2510023021 , 160066518 , 181737 , CP9353 , 2510023510 , AVC9137 , 1523402 , 2510023521 , SI87705 , US9353 , NP1778 , 2510023511 , WPHY3 , 5573144 , 1312195 , 2510023003 , 2510023530 , WP4043RP , AW9353 , 2510023020 , P9137 , PA9202 , FV37 , FP2402 , 2391518 , NP019353 , 252709 , 2510023001 , GWHY35A , 614046363182 , 571576 , 1010212 , T1210 , 2510023001R , FP2494 , 2510023522 , ELGWP9353 , 2510023513 , 2510023011 , 41061 , 1001576 , WP124 , 36353 , US8972 , GWKR117A , 1312273 , 126050 , 571485 , 512121 , 5573130 , 96152 , 181561

Qty:
34.87
GMB Engine Water Pump
  • Engine Water Pump
  • Product Attributes:
    • Gaskets Included: Yes
    • Manufacturer Warranty: N/a
    • Material: Aluminum
    • Product Condition: New
    • Pulley Included: Y
  • Manufactured to meet or exceed OEM specifications.
Brand: GMB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Hyundai Tiburon L 4 Cyl 2.0L - 1997
AISIN
2012 Hyundai Elantra Engine Water Pump 4 Cyl 1.8L AISIN

P311-31612B1    W0133-2041046  New

Qty:
83.50
AISIN Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2012 - Hyundai Elantra L 4 Cyl 1.8L - 1797
AISIN
2016 Hyundai Tucson Engine Water Pump 4 Cyl 2.0L AISIN

P311-31612B1    W0133-2041046  New

Qty:
83.50
AISIN Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • ; Production: -08/28/2015
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
2016 - Hyundai Tucson GAS L 4 Cyl 2.0L - 1999 To:08-28-15
AISIN
2006 Hyundai Tiburon Engine Water Pump 4 Cyl 2.0L AISIN - with Gasket

P311-341AA61    W0133-1786200  New

Qty:
74.33
AISIN Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • with Gasket
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Hyundai Tiburon L 4 Cyl 2.0L - 1975
Genuine
2003 Hyundai Elantra Engine Water Pump Genuine - w/o Gasket

P311-404DE50    W0133-1786200  New

Qty:
174.31
Genuine Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • w/o Gasket
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Hyundai Elantra
AISIN
1999 Hyundai Elantra Engine Water Pump AISIN - with Gasket

P311-341AA61    W0133-1786200  New

Qty:
74.33
AISIN Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • ; Production: 03/11/1999-
  • with Gasket
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1999 - Hyundai Elantra Fr:03-11-99
Genuine
1999 Hyundai Elantra Engine Water Pump Genuine - w/o Gasket

P311-404DE50    W0133-1786200  New

Qty:
174.31
Genuine Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Production: 03/11/1999-
  • w/o Gasket
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1999 - Hyundai Elantra Fr:03-11-99
Metrix
2009 Hyundai Accent Engine Water Pump Metrix - with Gasket

P311-368C4D4    W0133-1650952  New

Qty:
42.19
Metrix Engine Water Pump
  • with Gasket
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Hyundai Accent
AISIN
2001 Hyundai Santa Fe Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 2.7L AISIN - with Gasket

P311-5A4C1C0    W0133-1793299  New

Qty:
110.03
AISIN Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • The gasket is serviced separately on the OE Service version of this water pump. The gasket is included with the other brands of this water pump.
  • with Gasket
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2001 - Hyundai Santa Fe V 6 Cyl 2.7L - 2656
AISIN
2006 Hyundai Tiburon Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 2.7L AISIN - with Gasket

P311-5A4C1C0    W0133-1793299  New

Qty:
110.03
AISIN Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • with Gasket
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Hyundai Tiburon V 6 Cyl 2.7L - 2656
AISIN
2016 Hyundai Sonata Engine Water Pump AISIN

P311-1BFFE36    W0133-1924827  New

Qty:
87.22
AISIN Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN
2016 - Hyundai Sonata A
AISIN
2006 Hyundai Sonata Engine Water Pump 4 Cyl 2.4L AISIN - w/o Housing or Pulley

P311-4D9CF1B    W0133-1780705  New

Qty:
83.66
AISIN Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • The Gates pump includes the rear housing and the drive pulley. The Aisin version is the water pump only and will require the reuse of the original rear housing and drive pulley. Outlet housing gasket included.
  • w/o Housing or Pulley
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Hyundai Sonata L 4 Cyl 2.4L - 2359
AISIN
2007 Hyundai Sonata Engine Water Pump 4 Cyl 2.4L AISIN - w/o Housing or Pulley

P311-4D9CF1B    W0133-1780705  New

Qty:
83.66
AISIN Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • ; with Housing
  • w/o Housing or Pulley
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Hyundai Sonata L 4 Cyl 2.4L - 2359
AISIN
2008 Hyundai Sonata Engine Water Pump 4 Cyl 2.4L AISIN - w/o Housing or Pulley

P311-4D9CF1B    W0133-1780705  New

Qty:
83.66
AISIN Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • ; Production: -01/10/2008, with Housing
  • w/o Housing or Pulley
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
2008 - Hyundai Sonata L 4 Cyl 2.4L - 2359 To:01-10-08
AISIN
2011 Hyundai Azera Engine Water Pump AISIN

P311-09AEB7B    W0133-1891621  New

Qty:
107.33
AISIN Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2011 - Hyundai Azera
AISIN
2009 Hyundai Sonata Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 3.3L AISIN

P311-09AEB7B    W0133-1891621  New

Qty:
107.33
AISIN Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • ; Production: 11/04/2009-
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
2009 - Hyundai Sonata V 6 Cyl 3.3L - 3342 Fr:11-04-09
AISIN
2009 Hyundai Azera Engine Water Pump AISIN

P311-09AEB7B    W0133-1891621  New

Qty:
107.33
AISIN Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • ; Production: 11/03/2009-
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2009 - Hyundai Azera Fr:11-03-09
AISIN
2010 Hyundai Entourage Engine Water Pump AISIN

P311-09AEB7B    W0133-1891621  New

Qty:
107.33
AISIN Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • ; Production: 09/30/2009-
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2010 - Hyundai Entourage Fr:09-30-09
AISIN
2013 Hyundai Santa Fe XL Engine Water Pump AISIN

P311-09AEB7B    W0133-1891621  New

Qty:
107.33
AISIN Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • ; Production: -04/11/2013
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2013 - Hyundai Santa Fe XL To:04-11-13
AISIN
2013 Hyundai Azera Engine Water Pump AISIN

P311-09AEB7B    W0133-1891621  New

Qty:
107.33
AISIN Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • ; To 04/11/2013
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2013 - Hyundai Azera

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2005 Hyundai Sante Fe P/S noisy

Showing 5 out of 5 Posts
Question From lindalu on 2005 Hyundai Sante Fe P/S noisy

2005 Hyundai Sante Fe 3.5, after replacing water pump & timing belt, now P/s is noisy

Response From steve01832

Double check the condition of the belt and tension. It could be contaminated with oil or simply is loose.

Steve

Response From lindalu

We did that, even tried a new tensioner, still the same problem!

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Back a step: Is the tension of belt correct new tensioner or not? Dumb - but is PS fluid full? If not find out how and why it isn't. As Steve said belt contamination - especially coolant can make noise but the pro ear would know it's that and not an actual part issue.

Typically low fluid will make a buzzing sound like a blender but can do that and be full as well.

Other pulleys are more of a whine or growl. Hard to explain what can take 10 seconds in front of you if you have been there and heard them a few times.

Don't ignore it whatever it takes and coincidences do happen and are not necessarily caused by the work done,

T

Response From steve01832

If all of these check out ok, remove ALL drive belts and start engine. If noise is still there, it is in the timing belt system.

Steve

Multiple Codes (hyundai) / misfire, crank shaft, catalytic

Showing 2 out of 17 Posts | Show 15 Hidden Posts
Question From wildonion on Multiple Codes (hyundai) / misfire, crank shaft, catalytic

I brought my 2003 Hyundai Sonata (140,000 miles), 2.4 cylinder, into the shop because my car lost power while driving. The check engine light came on a couple weeks prior.

The car started back up the next morning but lost power again after 5 miles. The mechanic says that I have misfires on all cylinders, a crankshaft position sensor error, and a catalytic converter error.

Can the bad spark plugs, causing the cylinder misfires, also cause the other two codes or vice versa? The car is barely worth $2200 and I'm not sure I want to fix it.

Response From Discretesignals

Bad spark plugs won't cause a crankshaft position sensor error code. A failing or faulty crankshaft position sensor can cause stalling, rough running engine, no starts, and misfire codes. If you go after the crank sensor, you might as well do the timing belt and water pump.

Wouldn't worry too much about the cat code till you get the other problems fixed first.

Response From wildonion Top Rated Answer

So spark plugs were replaced and the misfire and crankshaft position sensor came back.

The quote for the timing belt, water pump, sensor replacement includes 6 hours of labor at $95/hour. I was told by a friend mechanic from another state that the labor should not be applied per part because the water pump and belt have to come off anyway to do the sensor. They told me the job should take around 3.5 hours so I should not be double charged on the labor. Does this make sense?

Response From Hammer Time

You do not have to remove the water pump to replace a crank sensor but the timing belt and sensor overlap so there should be a blend of times a little higher than either one alone.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Understand your VALID point. Not sure how to suggest approaching this for you. I'm in a rust belt and the dumbest things can take ages more than any listed time which about coincides with when cars come off warranty.


Sooooo, I never used time books. If it took too long I had good faith with people that it was a challenge and equally if something goes so fast. BUT mind you I worked alone so that's that and long done with it.


IDK - ask for a printout of the estimate or get quotes on the work you need as one lump price for all things needed or however you'd like to see it,


T

Response From Hammer Time

Do you have the code numbers? If not, have it scanned and post the numbers here.

Response From wildonion

P0421 $12 - Warm Up Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold Bank l
P0335 $ 12 - Crankshaft Position sensor A Circuit
P0300 $12 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0304 $12 - Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
P0303 $12 - Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
P0302 $12 - Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P0301 $12 - Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected

Fuel system 1 status - CL
Fuel System 2 status - 83.1 %
Calculated Load Value - 199 oF
Engine Coolant Temperature - 8.6 %
Short Term Fuel Trim -Bank 1 -0.8 %
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1
Engine RPM - 1250 rpm
Vehicle Speed Sensor - 4 mph

Response From Tom Greenleaf

wildonion: Not sure how you are pricing your own car as it sits with the repairs needed?


What would you buy and what kind of $$ are you willing or able to spend on another? Do the math that suits you as if you didn't have a car at all. Would you buy this car knowing what it needs + some surprises? When older I personally dismiss listed book valuations but rather check them out hard to at least rule out a hidden nightmare car.


Not many folks get away free for transportation. IMO the cost of the repairs if this car is excellent in general you are unlikely to find something used on the lower price end that doesn't need as much also.


True, it does help to know when to give up as you usually will not capture the expense at some point. Cars/transportation is costly, budget it in,


T

Response From wildonion

Thanks Tom - I don't minding paying for the privilege to own a car but I guess I don't quite know when it is too much.

Someone else mentioned 1K - 2K per year on a car unless you have a car payment and then you're paying anyway.

I've put in a new battery and alternator, as well as repaired the CV joints and replaced the tires. I was hoping to have a little break before spending any more money but I guess that's not the case for now. :) Thanks again.

Response From Hammer Time

As long as your engine and transmission are sound, the car isn't rusted out and you don't hate the car, it's worth doing some maintenance to.

Response From Hammer Time

Maintenance costs money............

The value of the car is really not part of the equation. No matter what you drive you are going to spend probably $1000 -$2000 a year to drive it, whether that be in payments or in repairs. What you need to actually look at is the condition of the rest of the car and will it hold together without large repairs for the foreseeable future. What you are looking at right now is mainly expected maintenance.

Response From wildonion

Thanks Hammertime - you see the codes now so I am guess that your response means I need to do all right now of it if I want to keep driving the car. Is that accurate?

Response From Hammer Time

No, what I am saying is don't base your decision solely on the value of the car. Base it on the decision of what future repairs might be and that is done by analyzing the condition of the rest of the car..

Response From wildonion

I don't think I want to spend the $1400 to do all this work on a car barely worth 2K. Is it even worth it for me to replace the spark plugs and see if this is the problem OR is it pretty likely that it's the crank shaft position sensor?

I know it's hard to say but trying to decide if it is worth any work at all right now. I'm willing to spend $250 but not 1500 and it seems it might be all or nothing.

Response From wildonion

Thanks - I have a $1500 quote for what you describe. Not sure but the car is barely worth 2200 - 2500. Do you think it is worth it?

Also, is there anything in the list that I don't need or is unfairly priced?


Renew SPARK PLUGS (4) Distributorless / coil over plug full access system 112.00
Spark Plug PGR5A-11 NGK 116.24

TIMING BELT SERVICE (60K Interval) Renew timing belt: Includes front engine seals, drive
belts, and water pump. Inspect and renew tensioner where needed flush cooling system and
fill with 50/50 coolant mixture pressure test cooling system; verify radiator fan operation.
The customer is always RESPONSIBLE for checking and maintaining oil level and tire
pressures at regular intervals (biweekly is recommended.)
672.00

Timing Belt 91.95
Water Pump Incldes O-Ring&Gasket 157.82
Camshaft Seal 23.06
Crankshaft Seal 20.38
Drive Belt 30.00
Multi Rib Belt 29.47
Multi Rib Belt 42.10
Balance Shaft Belt 27.84
T-Belt Tension Adjuster 89.56
Quart - Havoline Long Life Coolant (Yellow) 16.88
Remove and renew Crank Angle Sensor (CKP). Confirm operation. 0.00
Crank Position Sensor 97.23

Estimate for MTN2 1,526.00

Response From Discretesignals

What you could do is shop around for some estimates from other shops in your area. That will give you a general idea. That quote probably sounds pretty close to what something like that would normally cost to have repaired.

Hard to say if the car is worth fixing. Do you like it? Does it met your needs? As long as the rest of the vehicle such as the brakes, body, steering, tires, etc. are in good shape you might be able to get more years and miles out of it. Dropping less than a couple of grand into it would be cheaper than a car payment. If your thinking of the vehicle as an investment, forget that. You'd be lucky to buy a good used car in decent shape for less than 5K.

Response From nickwarner

Plus that 5k car would have enough miles on it that it would probably need a timing belt too.

coolant system leak

Showing 5 out of 8 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From lorijo17 on coolant system leak

i just had a faulty water pump replaced on my 2002 hyundai santa fe 2.7. Brought it home from the garage and it still leaked! Since it ran hot a few times - but not for long and not into the red, some people think i may have caused a cracked head or blown head gasket. Well the car runs perfect. There is no white smoke coming from the exhaust. there is no water in the oil and vice versa. The leak is coming from the water pump area underneath the passenger side. This is an external leak. Can internal leaks in the engine actually leak from underneath the car?

Response From Sidom

If it's still leaking then you need to take it back so it can be rechecked. If it's getting hot you really shouldn't be driving it until it's fixed. You could do more damage to the engine driving it while it's overheating.....

Response From lorijo17

If it's still leaking then you need to take it back so it can be rechecked. If it's getting hot you really shouldn't be driving it until it's fixed. You could do more damage to the engine driving it while it's overheating..... It is not overheating anymore.

Response From Sidom

Keep an eye on the coolant level, if it isn't losing any coolant it's possible the coolant you are seeing was just coolant caught in the sub frame when they did the pump. If that is the case then by now you really shouldn't be seeing any more coolant on the ground. If the "leak" stays at the same rate and the coolant level is going down, then it would be best to take it in to have it rechecked

Response From lorijo17 Top Rated Answer

It is dripping down at a fairly steady rate only when the engine is running.

Response From lorijo17

Got it fixed yesterday. The water pump was bad and he put on the seal correctly so found out a freeze plug came loose. Best thing is that he only charged me 100.00 to take apart the Suv and find and fix that secondary problem.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Thanks for reporting your situation,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Get that checked at once! I could just be a flawed gasket with the job but you need to know! DON'T LET IT OVERHEAT AT ALL AS MOST OF THESE WON'T TAKE IT WITHOUT MORE DAMAGE THAN JUST A WATER PUMP!

T

2003 Hyundai Santa Fe No Heat

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From lyssa98 on 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe No Heat

I have a 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe and it does not provide heat. When the temp is really cold (10) there is absolutely no heat. When it is in the 20's I get some heat but, only itermittently. I changed the thermostat and made sure the radiator was topped off, and still no luck. The car is an automatic, 6 cylinder (not sure of liter size). The engine heat guage is working and when the car is warm it is about half way. Could it be water pump or heater core related?? It is supposed to get very cold here so, a timely reply response would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Did this just happen or some history of this before changing thermostat?

Either way you seem to know cooling system must be truly full at the radiator. If cap is on remote recovery tank try when cool sqeezing a larger hose like upper radiator hose and see if bubbles come up at that tank - should be just liquid.

Guessing temp reads norm and it's steady there - right? Need to know.

If ok so far, now feel heater hoses going to the heater core. One should be about too hot to touch (use care of course!) and the other should be warm but not quite as hot with heater on full temp request full fan.

Now try with low fan and see if there's a difference and a difference in output temps in vehicle.

If either of those the core may be part plugged OR low force from water pump not heard of yet on this vehicle but possilbe. Usually if a water pump low pumping ability it would be better at higher RPMs at first and possibly near nothing at idle.

If any debris or goo is noted or just to do anyway flush whole cooling system. Make certain you don't exceed 50% concentrated antifreeze as too strong works against you!

Are you able to flush this yourself or send it out? It would help to see the heater flushes separately for flow and if all that doesn't work it's still good maintenance and let's go from there,

T

Response From lyssa98

I changed the thermostat for this very reason.

Temp reads fine.

Can't check the hoses until I get home but, l will do that.

Fan speed does not make a difference with regards to heat.

Engine RPM does not make a difference.

This morning I had heat pretty quick. After 10 or so miles, it was blowing cold, then warm, then cold, etc...

It sounds like you think the heater core is blocked. Is there anything else it could be??

Thanks for the advice fellow vet!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hmmm? What I need to know now is if the temp is actually staying exactly put - dash gauge reading ok for now. Especially when colder outside with a heater going the temp of the engine should stay exactly put as regulated by the thermostat which I believe is fins as now two have behaved the same.

I know you won't like it but I'm suspecting air in the system - perhaps just a little at a time that at the moment is capable of self purging thru the normal cylcles of the thermostat. Not to worry just yet but need to know that first.

If this can just sit still and blow heat constantly without changing engine speed I'd like to know that too. It's a waste to just sit and wait where you start off or park it the longest like overnight but I'm trying to nail down why this can be intermittent without wild overheats. So far it's not consistent with the usual plugged heater core but do observe and report if any gooey junk is noted in the antifreeze.

One more for the day - try to get an accurate reading of the freeze protection and take several readings and pls report that too,

T

Ps: The "Veteran" designation is just a site designation - NOT associated with any military service of any kind but just a #of posts thing this site does. Appreciate the good thoughts either way :-)

Response From lyssa98

The temp guage does not fluctuate at all.

I have a Ford F150 that was having wild swings with the temp guage and I first replaced the thermostat (no help), then the radiator and hoses (no help) and finally the water pump (problem solved). It gave no indication of being bad (no leaks).

This morning when I left for work, I had heat within a few minutes and noticed every once and awhile that only cold air was blowing. Maybe 25% of the 50 mile commute.

When I came home this afternoon, I didn't have any heat at all for about 30 minutes. Traffic was slow to stop and go. During the stop and go period, I switched the heat location from defrost to floor to vents a few times and I don't know if that did something but, I had heat. Very good heat. I noticed only a couple of times that only cold air was blowing and it did not last long.

After arriving at home, I let the it sit for 3 to 3 1/2 hours and went out and started it. Just like this morning, it seemed to be blowing warm air. Also, when I got home, I did not (intentionally) turn the heat selector to off. I normally do this.

When I replaced the thermostat, I lost about one half of the radiator fluid. At that time, I did not notice any "gooey stuff" and when I was done, I replaced the lost antifreeze with new (50/50).

I don't have an antifreeze tester but, it looks good visually. No foam or oil.

Thoughts?

By the way, military veteran or not, you are still serving the people of this country (and maybe others as well) in a noble cause.

Thanks, Greg.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Greg,

What I'm thinking now with likely ok antifreeze and now knowing a 50 mile ride with some time without heat and no gunk noticed is that air is getting into the system slowly.

Head scratch - hair loss?? It really should be fluctuating temps at gauge too if so but maybe not.

Ok: It's tricky but try to catch this warm but with little to no pressure in system. Squeeze the upper rad hose as an idea of how much pressure is in the system. Now and only with all caution, remove the pressure cap - slow!!!! They can blast coolant at you so use all care not to let that happen or don't even try. What I want to see is a total known pressure release while warm then cap reinstalled and feel that upper radiator hose after restarting the engine. It shouldn't pressure up again any time soon - many minutes to near never while waiting with engine idling. If that pressures up too soon it's an tricky clue that a head gasket is allowing combustion gasses which would act as air into cooling system and the air won't transfer heat even if scalding hot at the heater core.

It's a maybe for a reason for this. It would have to be slow or you would constantly notice low coolant, overheats or quick barfing up coolant at start ups or something whacked. It could be slow enough to allow the vapor yet not enough to overcome the cooling of the engine and when thermostat finally does it's periodic opening self purges effectively and restarts the cycle.

There are testers for gasses in the recovery tank that would be a good idea to have checked. Loren here said NAPA sell test strips or something that I'm not familiar with but would be great if so.

The hair loss is that most gasket issues would be worse than what's happening??

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For now - while just idling and heater on feel the hoses for temp. Find the two heater hoses and one should be warm/hot at least to a control valve in line if they use that way or all the way to firewall. If heat is blowing warm the return would be cooler but shouldn't be cold to the touch. If cold it suggests that all available heat was removed or near none even got to the heater - see the hair falling now?

Changing request from defrost to floor and that having any impact is interesting. Most vehicles will use a blend door to mix air to adjust temp outputs for inside and that is a possible spot for trouble but so far I haven't heard of any in any Hyundai anythings but who knows?

Do some checks. I'll dig into more if you can put up with the exchange. Do keep an eye on coolant level and now knowing the 50 mile commute I suggest you carry some extra with you for now.

I'm with you and other are always welcome to jump in,

T