Shop Hyundai Water Pumps

Back a step: Is the tension of belt correct new tensioner or not? Dumb - but is PS fluid full? If not find out how and why it isn't. As Steve said belt contamination - especially coolant can make noise but the pro ear would know it's that and not an actual part issue.

Typically low fluid will make a buzzing sound like a blender but can do that and be full as well.

Other pulleys are more of a whine or growl. Hard to explain what can take 10 seconds in front of you if you have been there and heard them a few times.

Don't ignore it whatever it takes and coincidences do happen and are not necessarily caused by the work done,

T

If it's still leaking then you need to take it back so it can be rechecked. If it's getting hot you really shouldn't be driving it until it's fixed. You could do more damage to the engine driving it while it's overheating..... It is not overheating anymore.

Keep an eye on the coolant level, if it isn't losing any coolant it's possible the coolant you are seeing was just coolant caught in the sub frame when they did the pump. If that is the case then by now you really shouldn't be seeing any more coolant on the ground. If the "leak" stays at the same rate and the coolant level is going down, then it would be best to take it in to have it rechecked

Bad spark plugs won't cause a crankshaft position sensor error code. A failing or faulty crankshaft position sensor can cause stalling, rough running engine, no starts, and misfire codes. If you go after the crank sensor, you might as well do the timing belt and water pump.

Wouldn't worry too much about the cat code till you get the other problems fixed first.

You do not have to remove the water pump to replace a crank sensor but the timing belt and sensor overlap so there should be a blend of times a little higher than either one alone.

Understand your VALID point. Not sure how to suggest approaching this for you. I'm in a rust belt and the dumbest things can take ages more than any listed time which about coincides with when cars come off warranty.


Sooooo, I never used time books. If it took too long I had good faith with people that it was a challenge and equally if something goes so fast. BUT mind you I worked alone so that's that and long done with it.


IDK - ask for a printout of the estimate or get quotes on the work you need as one lump price for all things needed or however you'd like to see it,


T

Do you have the code numbers? If not, have it scanned and post the numbers here.

P0421 $12 - Warm Up Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold Bank l
P0335 $ 12 - Crankshaft Position sensor A Circuit
P0300 $12 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0304 $12 - Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
P0303 $12 - Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
P0302 $12 - Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P0301 $12 - Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected

Fuel system 1 status - CL
Fuel System 2 status - 83.1 %
Calculated Load Value - 199 oF
Engine Coolant Temperature - 8.6 %
Short Term Fuel Trim -Bank 1 -0.8 %
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1
Engine RPM - 1250 rpm
Vehicle Speed Sensor - 4 mph

wildonion: Not sure how you are pricing your own car as it sits with the repairs needed?


What would you buy and what kind of $$ are you willing or able to spend on another? Do the math that suits you as if you didn't have a car at all. Would you buy this car knowing what it needs + some surprises? When older I personally dismiss listed book valuations but rather check them out hard to at least rule out a hidden nightmare car.


Not many folks get away free for transportation. IMO the cost of the repairs if this car is excellent in general you are unlikely to find something used on the lower price end that doesn't need as much also.


True, it does help to know when to give up as you usually will not capture the expense at some point. Cars/transportation is costly, budget it in,


T

Thanks Tom - I don't minding paying for the privilege to own a car but I guess I don't quite know when it is too much.

Someone else mentioned 1K - 2K per year on a car unless you have a car payment and then you're paying anyway.

I've put in a new battery and alternator, as well as repaired the CV joints and replaced the tires. I was hoping to have a little break before spending any more money but I guess that's not the case for now. :) Thanks again.

As long as your engine and transmission are sound, the car isn't rusted out and you don't hate the car, it's worth doing some maintenance to.

Maintenance costs money............

The value of the car is really not part of the equation. No matter what you drive you are going to spend probably $1000 -$2000 a year to drive it, whether that be in payments or in repairs. What you need to actually look at is the condition of the rest of the car and will it hold together without large repairs for the foreseeable future. What you are looking at right now is mainly expected maintenance.

Thanks Hammertime - you see the codes now so I am guess that your response means I need to do all right now of it if I want to keep driving the car. Is that accurate?

No, what I am saying is don't base your decision solely on the value of the car. Base it on the decision of what future repairs might be and that is done by analyzing the condition of the rest of the car..

I don't think I want to spend the $1400 to do all this work on a car barely worth 2K. Is it even worth it for me to replace the spark plugs and see if this is the problem OR is it pretty likely that it's the crank shaft position sensor?

I know it's hard to say but trying to decide if it is worth any work at all right now. I'm willing to spend $250 but not 1500 and it seems it might be all or nothing.

Thanks - I have a $1500 quote for what you describe. Not sure but the car is barely worth 2200 - 2500. Do you think it is worth it?

Also, is there anything in the list that I don't need or is unfairly priced?


Renew SPARK PLUGS (4) Distributorless / coil over plug full access system 112.00
Spark Plug PGR5A-11 NGK 116.24

TIMING BELT SERVICE (60K Interval) Renew timing belt: Includes front engine seals, drive
belts, and water pump. Inspect and renew tensioner where needed flush cooling system and
fill with 50/50 coolant mixture pressure test cooling system; verify radiator fan operation.
The customer is always RESPONSIBLE for checking and maintaining oil level and tire
pressures at regular intervals (biweekly is recommended.)
672.00

Timing Belt 91.95
Water Pump Incldes O-Ring&Gasket 157.82
Camshaft Seal 23.06
Crankshaft Seal 20.38
Drive Belt 30.00
Multi Rib Belt 29.47
Multi Rib Belt 42.10
Balance Shaft Belt 27.84
T-Belt Tension Adjuster 89.56
Quart - Havoline Long Life Coolant (Yellow) 16.88
Remove and renew Crank Angle Sensor (CKP). Confirm operation. 0.00
Crank Position Sensor 97.23

Estimate for MTN2 1,526.00

What you could do is shop around for some estimates from other shops in your area. That will give you a general idea. That quote probably sounds pretty close to what something like that would normally cost to have repaired.

Hard to say if the car is worth fixing. Do you like it? Does it met your needs? As long as the rest of the vehicle such as the brakes, body, steering, tires, etc. are in good shape you might be able to get more years and miles out of it. Dropping less than a couple of grand into it would be cheaper than a car payment. If your thinking of the vehicle as an investment, forget that. You'd be lucky to buy a good used car in decent shape for less than 5K.

Plus that 5k car would have enough miles on it that it would probably need a timing belt too.

Huh? How can you have less pressure in one hose than another unless wildly revving it up they are all the same. Of course it's cooler on the bottom - that's what a radiator does is cool hot coolant.


Add to questions by DS above: You may not be really full of coolant at all. Feel inlet and outlet hose of heater for the same temp or real close hot to touch - careful. Liquid coolant will not lose that much heat in a heater just some but if air in it would be cold coming out strongly suggests either clogged or air/vapor in system for any reason,


T