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Bad spark plugs won't cause a crankshaft position sensor error code. A failing or faulty crankshaft position sensor can cause stalling, rough running engine, no starts, and misfire codes. If you go after the crank sensor, you might as well do the timing belt and water pump.

Wouldn't worry too much about the cat code till you get the other problems fixed first.

You do not have to remove the water pump to replace a crank sensor but the timing belt and sensor overlap so there should be a blend of times a little higher than either one alone.

Understand your VALID point. Not sure how to suggest approaching this for you. I'm in a rust belt and the dumbest things can take ages more than any listed time which about coincides with when cars come off warranty.


Sooooo, I never used time books. If it took too long I had good faith with people that it was a challenge and equally if something goes so fast. BUT mind you I worked alone so that's that and long done with it.


IDK - ask for a printout of the estimate or get quotes on the work you need as one lump price for all things needed or however you'd like to see it,


T

Do you have the code numbers? If not, have it scanned and post the numbers here.

P0421 $12 - Warm Up Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold Bank l
P0335 $ 12 - Crankshaft Position sensor A Circuit
P0300 $12 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0304 $12 - Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
P0303 $12 - Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
P0302 $12 - Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P0301 $12 - Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected

Fuel system 1 status - CL
Fuel System 2 status - 83.1 %
Calculated Load Value - 199 oF
Engine Coolant Temperature - 8.6 %
Short Term Fuel Trim -Bank 1 -0.8 %
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1
Engine RPM - 1250 rpm
Vehicle Speed Sensor - 4 mph

wildonion: Not sure how you are pricing your own car as it sits with the repairs needed?


What would you buy and what kind of $$ are you willing or able to spend on another? Do the math that suits you as if you didn't have a car at all. Would you buy this car knowing what it needs + some surprises? When older I personally dismiss listed book valuations but rather check them out hard to at least rule out a hidden nightmare car.


Not many folks get away free for transportation. IMO the cost of the repairs if this car is excellent in general you are unlikely to find something used on the lower price end that doesn't need as much also.


True, it does help to know when to give up as you usually will not capture the expense at some point. Cars/transportation is costly, budget it in,


T

Thanks Tom - I don't minding paying for the privilege to own a car but I guess I don't quite know when it is too much.

Someone else mentioned 1K - 2K per year on a car unless you have a car payment and then you're paying anyway.

I've put in a new battery and alternator, as well as repaired the CV joints and replaced the tires. I was hoping to have a little break before spending any more money but I guess that's not the case for now. :) Thanks again.

As long as your engine and transmission are sound, the car isn't rusted out and you don't hate the car, it's worth doing some maintenance to.

Maintenance costs money............

The value of the car is really not part of the equation. No matter what you drive you are going to spend probably $1000 -$2000 a year to drive it, whether that be in payments or in repairs. What you need to actually look at is the condition of the rest of the car and will it hold together without large repairs for the foreseeable future. What you are looking at right now is mainly expected maintenance.

Thanks Hammertime - you see the codes now so I am guess that your response means I need to do all right now of it if I want to keep driving the car. Is that accurate?

No, what I am saying is don't base your decision solely on the value of the car. Base it on the decision of what future repairs might be and that is done by analyzing the condition of the rest of the car..

I don't think I want to spend the $1400 to do all this work on a car barely worth 2K. Is it even worth it for me to replace the spark plugs and see if this is the problem OR is it pretty likely that it's the crank shaft position sensor?

I know it's hard to say but trying to decide if it is worth any work at all right now. I'm willing to spend $250 but not 1500 and it seems it might be all or nothing.

Thanks - I have a $1500 quote for what you describe. Not sure but the car is barely worth 2200 - 2500. Do you think it is worth it?

Also, is there anything in the list that I don't need or is unfairly priced?


Renew SPARK PLUGS (4) Distributorless / coil over plug full access system 112.00
Spark Plug PGR5A-11 NGK 116.24

TIMING BELT SERVICE (60K Interval) Renew timing belt: Includes front engine seals, drive
belts, and water pump. Inspect and renew tensioner where needed flush cooling system and
fill with 50/50 coolant mixture pressure test cooling system; verify radiator fan operation.
The customer is always RESPONSIBLE for checking and maintaining oil level and tire
pressures at regular intervals (biweekly is recommended.)
672.00

Timing Belt 91.95
Water Pump Incldes O-Ring&Gasket 157.82
Camshaft Seal 23.06
Crankshaft Seal 20.38
Drive Belt 30.00
Multi Rib Belt 29.47
Multi Rib Belt 42.10
Balance Shaft Belt 27.84
T-Belt Tension Adjuster 89.56
Quart - Havoline Long Life Coolant (Yellow) 16.88
Remove and renew Crank Angle Sensor (CKP). Confirm operation. 0.00
Crank Position Sensor 97.23

Estimate for MTN2 1,526.00

What you could do is shop around for some estimates from other shops in your area. That will give you a general idea. That quote probably sounds pretty close to what something like that would normally cost to have repaired.

Hard to say if the car is worth fixing. Do you like it? Does it met your needs? As long as the rest of the vehicle such as the brakes, body, steering, tires, etc. are in good shape you might be able to get more years and miles out of it. Dropping less than a couple of grand into it would be cheaper than a car payment. If your thinking of the vehicle as an investment, forget that. You'd be lucky to buy a good used car in decent shape for less than 5K.

Plus that 5k car would have enough miles on it that it would probably need a timing belt too.

If it's still leaking then you need to take it back so it can be rechecked. If it's getting hot you really shouldn't be driving it until it's fixed. You could do more damage to the engine driving it while it's overheating.....

If it's still leaking then you need to take it back so it can be rechecked. If it's getting hot you really shouldn't be driving it until it's fixed. You could do more damage to the engine driving it while it's overheating..... It is not overheating anymore.

Keep an eye on the coolant level, if it isn't losing any coolant it's possible the coolant you are seeing was just coolant caught in the sub frame when they did the pump. If that is the case then by now you really shouldn't be seeing any more coolant on the ground. If the "leak" stays at the same rate and the coolant level is going down, then it would be best to take it in to have it rechecked

I changed the thermostat for this very reason.

Temp reads fine.

Can't check the hoses until I get home but, l will do that.

Fan speed does not make a difference with regards to heat.

Engine RPM does not make a difference.

This morning I had heat pretty quick. After 10 or so miles, it was blowing cold, then warm, then cold, etc...

It sounds like you think the heater core is blocked. Is there anything else it could be??

Thanks for the advice fellow vet!

Hmmm? What I need to know now is if the temp is actually staying exactly put - dash gauge reading ok for now. Especially when colder outside with a heater going the temp of the engine should stay exactly put as regulated by the thermostat which I believe is fins as now two have behaved the same.

I know you won't like it but I'm suspecting air in the system - perhaps just a little at a time that at the moment is capable of self purging thru the normal cylcles of the thermostat. Not to worry just yet but need to know that first.

If this can just sit still and blow heat constantly without changing engine speed I'd like to know that too. It's a waste to just sit and wait where you start off or park it the longest like overnight but I'm trying to nail down why this can be intermittent without wild overheats. So far it's not consistent with the usual plugged heater core but do observe and report if any gooey junk is noted in the antifreeze.

One more for the day - try to get an accurate reading of the freeze protection and take several readings and pls report that too,

T

Ps: The "Veteran" designation is just a site designation - NOT associated with any military service of any kind but just a #of posts thing this site does. Appreciate the good thoughts either way :-)

The temp guage does not fluctuate at all.

I have a Ford F150 that was having wild swings with the temp guage and I first replaced the thermostat (no help), then the radiator and hoses (no help) and finally the water pump (problem solved). It gave no indication of being bad (no leaks).

This morning when I left for work, I had heat within a few minutes and noticed every once and awhile that only cold air was blowing. Maybe 25% of the 50 mile commute.

When I came home this afternoon, I didn't have any heat at all for about 30 minutes. Traffic was slow to stop and go. During the stop and go period, I switched the heat location from defrost to floor to vents a few times and I don't know if that did something but, I had heat. Very good heat. I noticed only a couple of times that only cold air was blowing and it did not last long.

After arriving at home, I let the it sit for 3 to 3 1/2 hours and went out and started it. Just like this morning, it seemed to be blowing warm air. Also, when I got home, I did not (intentionally) turn the heat selector to off. I normally do this.

When I replaced the thermostat, I lost about one half of the radiator fluid. At that time, I did not notice any "gooey stuff" and when I was done, I replaced the lost antifreeze with new (50/50).

I don't have an antifreeze tester but, it looks good visually. No foam or oil.

Thoughts?

By the way, military veteran or not, you are still serving the people of this country (and maybe others as well) in a noble cause.

Thanks, Greg.

Greg,

What I'm thinking now with likely ok antifreeze and now knowing a 50 mile ride with some time without heat and no gunk noticed is that air is getting into the system slowly.

Head scratch - hair loss?? It really should be fluctuating temps at gauge too if so but maybe not.

Ok: It's tricky but try to catch this warm but with little to no pressure in system. Squeeze the upper rad hose as an idea of how much pressure is in the system. Now and only with all caution, remove the pressure cap - slow!!!! They can blast coolant at you so use all care not to let that happen or don't even try. What I want to see is a total known pressure release while warm then cap reinstalled and feel that upper radiator hose after restarting the engine. It shouldn't pressure up again any time soon - many minutes to near never while waiting with engine idling. If that pressures up too soon it's an tricky clue that a head gasket is allowing combustion gasses which would act as air into cooling system and the air won't transfer heat even if scalding hot at the heater core.

It's a maybe for a reason for this. It would have to be slow or you would constantly notice low coolant, overheats or quick barfing up coolant at start ups or something whacked. It could be slow enough to allow the vapor yet not enough to overcome the cooling of the engine and when thermostat finally does it's periodic opening self purges effectively and restarts the cycle.

There are testers for gasses in the recovery tank that would be a good idea to have checked. Loren here said NAPA sell test strips or something that I'm not familiar with but would be great if so.

The hair loss is that most gasket issues would be worse than what's happening??

~~~~~~~~~~~~~`

For now - while just idling and heater on feel the hoses for temp. Find the two heater hoses and one should be warm/hot at least to a control valve in line if they use that way or all the way to firewall. If heat is blowing warm the return would be cooler but shouldn't be cold to the touch. If cold it suggests that all available heat was removed or near none even got to the heater - see the hair falling now?

Changing request from defrost to floor and that having any impact is interesting. Most vehicles will use a blend door to mix air to adjust temp outputs for inside and that is a possible spot for trouble but so far I haven't heard of any in any Hyundai anythings but who knows?

Do some checks. I'll dig into more if you can put up with the exchange. Do keep an eye on coolant level and now knowing the 50 mile commute I suggest you carry some extra with you for now.

I'm with you and other are always welcome to jump in,

T