Finish Selecting Your Vehicle to Shop For Your Water Pump

Choose a Year for your Honda 's Water Pump

  • 2019
  • 2018
  • 2017
  • 2016
  • 2015
  • 2014
  • 2013
  • 2012
  • 2011
  • 2010
  • 2009
  • 2008
  • 2007
  • 2006
  • 2005
  • 2004
  • 2003
  • 2002
  • 2001
  • 2000
  • 1999
  • 1998
  • 1997
  • 1996
  • 1995
  • 1994
  • 1993
  • 1992
  • 1991
  • 1990
  • 1989
  • 1988
  • 1987
  • 1986
  • 1985
  • 1984
  • 1983
  • 1982
  • 1981
  • 1980
  • 1979
  • 1978
  • 1977
  • 1976
  • 1975
Show More Years

Shop By Brand

The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • AISIN
    AISIN
  • Airtex
    Airtex
  • Aisin
    Aisin
  • Beck Arnley
    Beck Arnley
  • Cardone
    Cardone
  • DJ Rock
    DJ Rock
  • GMB
    GMB
  • Gates
    Gates
  • Genuine
    Genuine
  • Metrix
    Metrix
  • NPW
    NPW
  • Paraut
    Paraut

Best Selling Genuine Honda Water Pumps

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including GMB, Metrix, NPW, AISIN, Paraut
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Honda Replacement Water Pump Parts

We stock Water Pump parts for most Honda models, including Accord, CRV, CRZ, CRX, Civic, Civic del Sol, Element, Fit, HRV, Insight, Odyssey, Passport, Pilot, Prelude, Ridgeline, S2000.

GMB
1986 Honda Civic Engine Water Pump GMB

P311-5CE5C0E    W0133-1622465  New

Qty:
$45.00
GMB Engine Water Pump
Brand: GMB
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1986 - Honda Civic
Metrix
1988 Honda CRX Engine Water Pump Metrix

P311-4041241    W0133-1614429  New

Qty:
$37.55
Metrix Engine Water Pump
Brand: Metrix
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1988 - Honda CRX
NPW
1992 Honda Civic Engine Water Pump NPW

P311-5CB1F4B    W0133-1612260  New

Qty:
$76.41
NPW Engine Water Pump
Brand: NPW
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation
1992 - Honda Civic D16Z6
NPW
1992 Honda Prelude Engine Water Pump 4 Cyl 2.3L NPW

P311-15BB9D5    W0133-1621548  New

Qty:
$89.92
NPW Engine Water Pump
Brand: NPW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1992 - Honda Prelude L 2259 -
NPW
2007 Honda Fit Engine Water Pump NPW

P311-47D8E79    W0133-1799071  New

Qty:
$77.90
NPW Engine Water Pump
Brand: NPW
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Honda Fit
GMB
2000 Honda S2000 Engine Water Pump GMB

P311-3780AA4    W0133-1714567  New

Qty:
$82.00
GMB Engine Water Pump
Brand: GMB
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2000 - Honda S2000
NPW
1988 Honda Prelude Engine Water Pump NPW

P311-257B368    W0133-1624393  New

Qty:
$62.41
NPW Engine Water Pump
Brand: NPW
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Delivery Type
1988 - Honda Prelude CARB
NPW
1991 Honda Prelude Engine Water Pump NPW

P311-4707A14    W0133-1621797  New

Qty:
$65.43
NPW Engine Water Pump
Brand: NPW
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1991 - Honda Prelude
GMB
1991 Honda Prelude Engine Water Pump GMB

P311-55AD6AA    W0133-1621797  New

Qty:
$68.43
GMB Engine Water Pump
Brand: GMB
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1991 - Honda Prelude
Metrix
1999 Honda Civic Engine Water Pump Metrix

P311-29700AC    W0133-1610984  New

Qty:
$39.62
Metrix Engine Water Pump
Brand: Metrix
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Cylinder Head Type
1999 - Honda Civic DOHC
Metrix
1990 Honda Accord Engine Water Pump Metrix

P311-5BFD8FD    W0133-1612826  New

Qty:
$33.89
Metrix Engine Water Pump
Brand: Metrix
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1990 - Honda Accord
NPW
1997 Honda Prelude Engine Water Pump NPW

P311-3B4EBD2    W0133-1607485  New

Qty:
$75.29
NPW Engine Water Pump
Brand: NPW
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1997 - Honda Prelude
NPW
2008 Honda Accord Engine Water Pump 4 Cyl 2.4L NPW

P311-3E4FE3F    W0133-1820136  New

Qty:
$68.48
NPW Engine Water Pump
  • with Gasket
Brand: NPW
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2008 - Honda Accord L 2354 144
GMB
1976 Honda Accord Engine Water Pump GMB

P311-581DBC9    W0133-1910741  New

Qty:
$43.16
GMB Engine Water Pump
  • w/o Pulley
Brand: GMB
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1976 - Honda Accord
GMB
1980 Honda Accord Engine Water Pump GMB

P311-1E81F02    W0133-1627987  New

Qty:
$57.17
GMB Engine Water Pump
  • w/o Pulley
Brand: GMB
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1980 - Honda Accord
AISIN
1986 Honda Civic Engine Water Pump AISIN

P311-549C794    W0133-1622465  New

Qty:
$76.22
AISIN Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
Brand: AISIN
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1986 - Honda Civic
Paraut
1986 Honda Civic Engine Water Pump Paraut

P311-536B5F8    W0133-1622465  New

Qty:
$64.81
Paraut Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • NLA 2/15
Brand: Paraut
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1986 - Honda Civic
Metrix
2001 Honda Civic Engine Water Pump Metrix

P311-31C00A8    W0133-1621733  New

Qty:
$42.29
Metrix Engine Water Pump
Brand: Metrix
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Honda Civic
AISIN
2001 Honda Civic Engine Water Pump AISIN

P311-53768D0    W0133-1621733  New

Qty:
$84.15
AISIN Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
Brand: AISIN
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Honda Civic
NPW
2001 Honda Civic Engine Water Pump NPW

P311-22F3708    W0133-1621733  New

Qty:
$85.85
NPW Engine Water Pump
Brand: NPW
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Honda Civic

Latest Honda Repair and Water Pump Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

no spark at # 1 spark plug

Showing 3 out of 4 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From mike wright on no spark at # 1 spark plug

98 Honda civic ex: replaced crank sensor, timing belt, water pump,spark plugs, wires and new distributer still no spark. thinking now it may be the computer.

Response From Hammer Time

Was the new distributor complete with a coil and Ignition module?

Response From kev2 Top Rated Answer

BEFORE replacing the computer - have a professional technician look at the vehicle, access the PCM for DTC's or at the least the basic troubleshooting for no spark should be performed.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Rare but can you put the dead wire to another cylinder that works and see if the problem follows that wire? Get codes just because you should.


Some spark testers could be put on the distributor end and see if grounding the end towards plug gets a spark. Not quite sure why it would pick on just one guessing you have checked that others work?


T

2003 honda element

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From toolman0007 on 2003 honda element

I have a 2003 honda element 2.4 automatic. preparing to do a water pump on this thing. was wondering if anyone has what book time calls for the replacement.

Response From kev2 Top Rated Answer

Labor Times
Factory...... Regular...... Severe
0.0 ...........3.5 ............3.7

Includes Includes: Refill with proper coolant mix.
Addons

...... Factory...... Regular...... Severe
/AC add 0.0......... 0.3 .........0.3
/PS add 0.0..........0.3.......... 0.3

Response From toolman0007

thanks so much for your time. now I can plan for this a bit better.

03 honda element no heat

Showing 4 out of 41 Posts | Show 37 Hidden Posts
Question From toolman0007 on 03 honda element no heat

have this 2003 honda element again. with this cold snap it's putting out very little heat. after a good bit of running
top hose was good and warm, bottom hose was cold. thought it might be thermostat. replaced it not much of a change.
because it has A/C it's my understanding it would have a heater control valve, or bypass valve when you go from heat to A/C. if so where is it located ? or is there something else I may not be aware of. just replaced the leaking water pump about 12 days ago.

Response From Hammer Time

With the engine at full operating temp, locate the 2 heater hoses where they go into the firewall and feel them to see if they are both hot to the touch. If not too hot to hold, then you have to look at the actual engine temp and if that is up, if it is, then your looking at a restricted heater core or poor circulation for another reason.
If you find that they are both too hot to hold, then the heat in that vehicle is controlled by a blend door that regulates heated air flow. it is operated by an electric motor/actuator. The problem can be that the actuator is stripped or inoperative or the door itself could be damaged. This is what needs to be determined by examining the actuator and see if it is responding to heat change commands or not.

Response From toolman0007 Top Rated Answer

kinda put off anymore checking till the am. thanks for the info, and putting me in the right direction.
I was informed that a stop leak product was used when they noticed the coolant leak.(water pump) whats your input on that. my view is it is unhealthy for the cooling system and could cause blockage.

Response From Hammer Time

Very bad.............. That could be your whole problem. The heater core could be all plugged up with the sealer but do the testing to find out.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

From first post " after a good bit of running
top hose was good and warm, bottom hose was cold."


Yep - now knowing stop leak was used that would easily be the whole problem. So little coolant can get thru it that what does would cool to airflow temp fast and produce little to no heat.


Flush it out forward and backward. In fact do whole cooling system and get that sealer stuff out.


Sealers are useful for one last run to junk a car driving it there vs paying for a tow and that's about it on that,


T

Response From Hammer Time

I think the radiator hose temps are irrelevant here. The issue is lack of heat in the heater, not overheating in the radiator. That would have no bearing on the heater temp. Concentrate on the heater hoses and their temp. It's normal for the lower radiator hose to be cooler if the radiator has done it's job as long as the truck is not overheating.

Response From toolman0007

the element is back. ok after a good bit of running, checking heater hoses one facing fire wall, on the right very warm. one on the left very cold. conclusion no flow through heater core. some one advised flushing it.? have a new one on hand. looks like a real bear to get to. thinking dash has to be dropped . going to try flushing just the core and see if I can get flow. just on the chance anyone ever replace one on these things before, what kind of nightmare am I looking at ? LOL

Response From GC

Havent had the joy of doing one, but I went with the Ex since I wasnt sure what you had. It shows about 8rs labor. Have to recover and recharge a/c system on top of that, if you have a/c. Definitely try flushing it.

Response From toolman0007

well took the reversible pump I have a good bucket of hot water and I have good flow in both directions. I even pulled the inline flow valve. it moved before but wanted to check how easy by hand. there was mention of a flow door actuator in above responses. will be checking that as well. so far still have not found why this had no heat ??

Response From Hammer Time

Don't worry about the blend door until you have 2 hot hoses.

Response From toolman0007

ok heater core has flow. put it all back together. and using just water, let it run for about 15 min both hoses at the core are warm. took it for a good 5 mile ride. both hoses at the core much warmer but bottom hose on the radiator was still cold. peeking in to the radiator I can see quite a bit of build up of what i would presume to be the stop leak that was put in. it does not appear to have flow through the radiator. it tends to back up when throttle is applied heat getting to the inside better but it's not zero out today

Response From Hammer Time

I told you to stop worrying about the radiator hoses. They won't prevent the car from having heat. The lower hose is supposed to be cooler. That's what a radiator does.

Response From toolman0007

hammer I get how it works. but with the length of time running I would think the thermostat would be open or had been open enough to warm the bottom hose. apparently not. so how long do you feel this thing should run before it should be putting out heat. temp today is 30

Response From Hammer Time

The temp of the radiator has no bearing on the heater temp. Engine coolant starts circulating through the heater core long before the thermostat lets it into the radiator. The temp of the upper hose is an accurate comparison of engine temp once the T-stat opens. Don't even worry about the lower hose. Heater temp should gradually increase starting almost immediately after start up.

Response From toolman0007

ok have had this thing running for a good 45 min enough where cooling fans kick in (should both come on) ? hoses at heater core the one with the flow valve is hot, the other is just good and warm. hot being I can't hold it for long . I know im getting circulation through the core, but still feel what heat I am getting is still low in temp. while I'm at this thing I want to do a complete flush to attempt to get all the stop leak out, just a good long flush with hot water should do. whats your take

Response From Hammer Time

I would remove both heater hoses and use a garden hose under pressure and blast it in both directions. I wouldn't be trying to do this in freezing temps. that will be a losing battle. If that doesn't work, then you just have to replace the core.

Make sure you are getting hot on both sides of that heater control valve too.

Response From toolman0007

ok I'm in doors in a garage. to old for the out doors LOl. as I stated earlier I set it up with a pump 6gpm and had good flow both ways. you feel I could use more pressure ? house psi 65-70

Response From Hammer Time

70lbs of water pressure in your house? Are you sure about that? I would expect the average house to be 10 to 20 PSI. That's about all city water pressure is. There isn't a garden hose in the world that will survive 70 PSI. You don't want to exceed 20 in that core. If it's not working, just replace the core.

Response From toolman0007

this can be considered closed as it has been well over a week and the heat is working fine now thanks for every ones help and advice

Response From toolman0007

yes on the pressure can't use a standard garden hose. heavy commercial rubber hose standing psi 65 and running is about 59 psi. been that way for a long time. are there any products out there that are designed to brake up or neutralize stop leak ?.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

#1 - Don't use that much pressure as you can blow your new water pump and too much for radiator ends and about everything not made for that pressure.


IDK what help or harm the isle of assorted junk can do or what harm. Among them is flush for cooling systems. There has to be 20 different brands of sealer and think most is just concoctions of saw dust and perhaps fine ground rubber bits. Containers will claim anything to sell products and could care less if the work or cause harm.


Haven't needed the radiator shops for ages and most gone that I knew of. They would dunk whole radiators in some acid bath and don't know what type of acid but when parts were brass and copper would come out stripped of paint then ready to solder leaks or put a new core on reusable end tanks but not practical any more.


Never done it have heard of using automatic dishwasher soaps and flush all that out too. So many bogus claims but the junk in a bottle stuff I'll just say AYOR if you try one as a flush product,


T

Response From toolman0007

I am cautious and aware on the hole pressure thing. did a good 20 min flush both through the heater core and rad and block, separately. I'm getting heat but it sure does take a bit of time to get there. at least 20 min of run time or more. it was suggested that I just replace the heater core. kinda hard to justify with the amount of flow there is through it. I personally am not a fan of any stop leak products. internals were never meant for that crap. better to fix the problem than to apply a band aid to it. in the long run one is better off

Response From GC

I have had some success with filling the heater core with CLR and letting it sit for 20 min or so, then flushing core again. Only as last resort, since its not recommended by manufacturer. Ive never had it cause a problem with a core, but I suppose it could, so I dont do it unless the only other option is replacing the core.

Response From toolman0007

another thought i had considered, even more so now given the orientation of the core. my goal was to fix the problem but was only going to consider replacement as a last resort. time will tell as she drives the car. still holding the part for a few days.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Tell me toolman the orientation of the blower motor to the heater core if you would as I can't look that up? Some you get a good view of it and can touch it or IR thermo it to see if it's got a cold spot. Flow on this stuff as DS brought up may not be straight line for cleaning out so easy or at all.


All but so very few are a LOT of time and careful attention to just remove and replace plus little crap and things can break easily, how well sealed and with what messed up. Hate them as you can see. There's no doubt to me that everything is tight for work space in this and about everything


Never mind what a new one costs but what a waste of time if not conclusive to change it out and be done with this problem,


T

Response From Hammer Time

It's been very clear throughout this question that he has a temperature problem, not an air flow problem and a plugged up heater core is the only possibility out there. He has already determined that by the temp of the heater hoses.

His only options at this point id to either get it flushed which has been futile for the reasons DS pointed out or replace the core.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Was on PMs about this with him that's it's open. He can take it out (very used to dash work as an auto body guy) and will try to clear it or replace. Waiting to get some funky temp measuring stuff that I'm about sure will prove it has cold spots or whole area.


It's the challenge now not the bucks. Might be good archives for what sealer can really wreck. Of all things in the junk fix isles there should be one that reverses effects of stuff of the sort that really works IMO! Tom


PS: @ HT. Do you recall the brand name Zerex antifreeze? 1960s or so. TV ads they poked holes in the gallon jug of it and it sealed them! Haven't seen the brand name on anything. It wouldn't or couldn't be useful on H.E. cooling systems and was supposed to be proactive not after the fact. Never used it then either.........

Response From Hammer Time

PS: @ HT. Do you recall the brand name Zerex antifreeze? 1960s or so. TV ads they poked holes in the gallon jug of it and it sealed them!

No, that's a new one on me.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I swear it's not a brain phart. Still long ago and might have been a metal qt. can........



Best I could find. ?? Tom

Response From Hammer Time

Back when radiators were copper and the passages were like tunnels. That stuff was pretty harmless back then. Not any more.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Unlocked as not quite done yet and he has a plan......... Tom

Response From Discretesignals

It's not so much the orientation, but the flow design. It doesn't take much to clog up those small transfer tubes. You may not be able to use water flow through the inlet and outlet pipes to flush out the clogged tubes, because the water flow will go through the good tubes. Water is going to flow through the path of least resistance. That is why radiator shops have to remove the tanks on radiators to rod tubes out.


edit:

Good to see you got it figured out. Closed per request by OP. Can be reopened upon request.

Response From toolman0007

just a thank you for your time. calling this one a wrap,

Response From toolman0007

just a thought, why would the manufacture suggest a fix when they would much rather sell the labor and parts LOL,
tricks of the trade, what we learn when we just don't follow what we are told. or apply a bit of critical thinking.
thank you

Response From Discretesignals

Another thing to consider is the heater core is a parallel flow design. That means that half the core could be clogged and you would still have flow through it, but only half the heating ability. Sometimes you can't effectively flush out something like that because there is more than one passage for the water to flow through.

&imagekey=3607500-0&width=450

Response From toolman0007

a point I did not consider, core orientation. another engineer design flaw LOL. inverted the other way would seem better,
just not sure if air would be an issue. thanks for your point

Response From Tom Greenleaf

? Didn't see it mentioned but does this car have good air flow thru vents? Does it use a cabin air filter? Rodent issues chewing up or nesting with junk even a maybe?


The flushes scare me more with so much assorted alloys used and would think an acid. Never did use it on anything so difficult to comment much.


You did say takes a while to warm up in this somewhere. That's a bit unusual to me for this generation of vehicle as warming up quickly helps reduce emissions and sooner to get the best MPGs.


General: Heat should be direct engine coolant temp available. Must be free of air. Thermostat should stay pretty much shut off to radiator till it reaches the rating of it. If the hose from thermostat to radiator gets warm much at all before up to operating temp there's a problem with that IMO. Check that as so far this isn't fixed so something still isn't right so check what you can,


T

Response From toolman0007

yes there is plenty of air flow, but the filter is a very good point, not sure if it has ever been serviced. I will note that thanks. I timed it this morning a 10 min run and it was putting out heat. temp climbed a good bit when rpms were brought up to about 2000. all seems well

Response From Discretesignals

30 degrees with pure water in the system? Is that a good idea?

Response From toolman0007

water is just for the testing, had to drain to check heater core will be putting coolant back in. planning a complete flush to get rid of stop leak

Response From toolman0007

DUH you have a point there. thanks

Honda Accord engine noise

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From bokogabe on Honda Accord engine noise

Hi everyone. I have a Honda Accord 1999 SiR-T, with DOHC F20B engine. It sounds bad on low revs. Can somebody tell me what might be the problem?
Here's the link to the video:

Thank you.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Sounds to me like the timing belt is getting ready to come apart. It may be a bad water pump. Don't let that belt come apart or you will be buying a new engine.

1999 Honda Accord with noise from engine

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From kirkj48 on 1999 Honda Accord with noise from engine

I have a 1999 Honda Accord - 4 cylinder, 4 door automatic - with 375,000 KM. The car has been running great but a few weeks ago, I started hearing a "screeching" noise from the engine every time I put my foot on the gas.

I thought it was a belt or the alternator. I changed the alternator (belt was good) but noise was still there. When I disconnected the belts for the power steering, alternator and the AC, the noise was still there. A quick look at the timing belt showed it needed replacing so I replaced the timing belt and the water pump.

I still have the noise even with the PS, AC and alternator belts not connected.

A friend changed the timing belt and water pump for $150 and I really don't want to spend too much more on the car given the mileage. I'm guess the issue is coming from the engine. Any ideas what else it may be other than "expensive" engine repair?

Thanks

John

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Can you record the noise and upload it to a video hosting site and paste the link in here? Maybe listening to it could give us some clues.

Response From kirkj48

Thanks for your interest.

I'm not sure how to upload it to a video hosting site. I know little about cars .... less about technology. I do have the "noise" recorded as a wave file but I guess you can't simply attach the file.

The screeching noise is still there when the I hit the gas, but now the car is very loud even when just idling. Almost like a muffler issue.

Thanks

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Silly test if you think exhaust something. With heavy gloves and damp rag just plug off (don't freaking burn yourself please) see if the noise totally changes or goes away?

The hosting sites even I don't use and this site doesn't have anything so easy for me either and never did. I'm getting so sick of wires and devices all over the place there's more that in a space shuttle now!

Soooo - for pictures or sound you can use photobucket or YouTube - whatever device you use just copy and paste from your browser and should paste to here as a clickable link. I'm no geek either and the nanosecond I get the hang of one the device goes to hell and the new one is all different.

I drive a 1956 Desoto because of it! No, but not far from it. I don't need my car to try to tell me door is ajar, it's a damn door fool thing! Smile

Tom