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GMB
1994 Honda Accord Engine Water Pump 4 Cyl 2.2L GMB

P311-44487A3    135-1280  New

19200PDAE01 , WP3016RP , WH7069 , QAW9209 , FW9209 , 19200P0A003R , 16239 , 5862023750 , HYT22016C , WPH001 , 19200PT0003 , 2343305 , 19200P0A032 , 571295 , 5553629 , 19200POA003 , 8381 , CP9209 , NP019209 , 5862055320 , 1666785 , AWP759 , 19200PTO003 , W1898N , 5553616 , SI85512 , 2800928 , A351280 , 19200PTO013 , 705288 , W1898 , 571547 , 19200P0A003A , 19200P0A003 , 252234 , 11221011630 , FP2014 , 9210 , P1453 , WP9209 , 19200POBA01 , US9209 , P2346 , WP106 , T1147 , 160066306 , 1351280 , WP219 , 1529264 , PC811 , AVC759 , WPH20 , WP2420 , 41042 , 18671 , GWP342 , GWP345 , H28 , 289209 , 19200PT0013 , WP4978 , 1759 , H37 , B1453 , W1351280 , 2393710 , PA5205 , 7072300 , 701470 , ELGWP9209 , 51400 , 122016 , AW9209 , 16209 , GWHO28A , 1168 , L313661 , 1462014 , 512016 , SI85508 , 96073 , TVI9209 , 19200P0A001 , 19200P0BA01 , 1312087 , 87674662741 , W5288 , 3014528 , 2282115 , 8315 , MBA102346 , 8382

Qty:
22.72
GMB Engine Water Pump
  • Product Attributes:
    • Hub Height: 1.90
    • Hub Pilot Diameter: 2.33
    • Impeller Material: Metal
    • Impeller Rotation: Reverse
    • Mounting Hardware Included: 1 Rubber Gasket, 1 Rubber Guard
    • Pulley Type: Timing Belt
    • Water Pump Drive Type: Belt
Brand: GMB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1994 - Honda Accord L 4 Cyl 2.2L - 2156
GMB
2019 Honda Odyssey Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 3.5L GMB

P311-5687103    135-1530  New

41184 , 97243 , 252896 , 181915 , 19200R70A11 , BVC9363 , 222042 , H53 , NP019470 , 1351530 , 160099074 , 1001611 , 571611 , US9470 , P9363 , 12607015 , 2725838 , AW9470 , 19200RDMA02 , T2304 , 1312285 , H58 , 19200RCAA01 , 19200RDMA01 , 19200RDVJ01 , 23476 , W1351530 , BWP9363 , 12581517 , WPH801 , 512235 , 5553423 , 12635743 , 11221027338 , CP9470 , 19200RDMA02R1

Qty:
43.17
GMB Engine Water Pump
  • Product Attributes:
    • Hub Height: 1.41
    • Hub Pilot Diameter: 2.52
    • Impeller Material: Metal
    • Impeller Rotation: Reverse
    • Mounting Hardware Included: 1 Rubber Gasket
    • Pulley Type: Timing Belt
    • Water Pump Drive Type: Belt
Brand: GMB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2019 - Honda Odyssey V 6 Cyl 3.5L - 3471
GMB
2004 Honda Civic Engine Water Pump 4 Cyl 1.7L GMB

P311-2F90125    135-2420  New

2186617 , WPH044 , 19200PLMA01 , H47 , NP019419 , 512151 , 19200PMEA01 , 571597 , 252830 , 122033 , A352420 , 1463670 , 19200PLE005 , WP220 , US9419 , GWHO48A , 41115 , 5553626 , 16419 , W1352420 , ELGWP9419 , FP2529 , WP8161RP , HYT22033C , 181646 , 2668829 , PA10131 , WPH41 , 19200PLMA01R , AWP9207 , 19200PLC003 , AW9419 , CP9419 , P1842 , 160060392 , P9207 , 96162 , H46 , 1352420 , 1312271 , T1165

Qty:
31.30
GMB Engine Water Pump
  • Product Attributes:
    • Hub Height: 1.65
    • Hub Pilot Diameter: 2.21
    • Impeller Material: Metal
    • Impeller Rotation: Reverse
    • Mounting Hardware Included: 1 Rubber Gasket
    • Pulley Type: Timing Belt
    • Water Pump Drive Type: Belt
Brand: GMB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Honda Civic L 4 Cyl 1.7L - 1700
GMB
1999 Honda Accord Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 3.0L GMB

P311-4F0E1BD    135-2380  New

19200P8A003 , AW9383 , BWP9201 , 1312256 , 97216 , W1352380 , 42316 , MBA109201 , 19200P8AA02R1 , 181603 , BVC9201 , 19200P8A02 , 19200PBAA03 , 2666669 , 512139 , H44 , CP9383 , P2455 , T2238 , US9383 , FP2478 , 289383 , 19200P8A03 , 160068056 , 5553421 , 1352380 , P9201 , NP1673 , 26383 , 571528 , WPH906 , 252797 , 2386770 , 1463662 , 19200P8AA030 , 222028 , H45 , 19200P8AA03R , WP284 , GWHO57A , 19200P8AA02 , 19200P8FA01 , HYT22028C , 19200P8AA03 , 19200P8AA01 , NP019383 , WPH800

Qty:
37.30
GMB Engine Water Pump
  • Product Attributes:
    • Hub Height: 1.71
    • Hub Pilot Diameter: 2.52
    • Impeller Material: Metal
    • Impeller Rotation: Reverse
    • Mounting Hardware Included: 1 Rubber Gasket
    • Pulley Type: Timing Belt
    • Water Pump Drive Type: Belt
Brand: GMB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1999 - Honda Accord V 6 Cyl 3.0L - 2997
AISIN
2010 Honda Civic Engine Water Pump 4 Cyl 1.8L AISIN

P311-213E2C0    W0133-3049062  New

Qty:
146.85
AISIN Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2010 - Honda Civic L 4 Cyl 1.8L - 1799
Metrix
2005 Honda Civic Engine Water Pump Metrix

P311-31C00A8    W0133-1621733  New

Qty:
37.93
Metrix Engine Water Pump
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type
2005 - Honda Civic CNG
AISIN
2002 Honda Civic Engine Water Pump AISIN

P311-53768D0    W0133-1621733  New

Qty:
64.40
AISIN Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type
2002 - Honda Civic CNG
NPW
2002 Honda Civic Engine Water Pump NPW

P311-22F3708    W0133-1621733  New

Qty:
80.81
NPW Engine Water Pump
Brand: NPW
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2002 - Honda Civic EX
AISIN
1995 Honda Odyssey Engine Water Pump AISIN

P311-3EC169B    W0133-1612826  New

Qty:
83.29
AISIN Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Honda Odyssey
NPW
2007 Honda Accord Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 3.0L NPW - with Gasket

P311-031B1B2    W0133-1709788  New

Qty:
93.07
NPW Engine Water Pump
  • Includes Gasket & Pulley
  • with Gasket
Brand: NPW
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Honda Accord V 6 Cyl 3.0L - 2997
Metrix
2008 Honda Odyssey Engine Water Pump Metrix - with Gasket

P311-5D213F3    W0133-1709788  New

Qty:
56.75
Metrix Engine Water Pump
  • with Gasket
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - Honda Odyssey
AISIN
2009 Honda Pilot Engine Water Pump AISIN - with Gasket

P311-248C10C    W0133-1709788  New

Qty:
157.21
AISIN Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • with Gasket
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Honda Pilot
Metrix
2018 Honda Ridgeline Engine Water Pump Metrix - with Gasket

P311-5D213F3    W0133-1709788  New

Qty:
56.75
Metrix Engine Water Pump
  • ; Incl.Gasket & Pulley
  • with Gasket
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2018 - Honda Ridgeline
AISIN
2019 Honda Pilot Engine Water Pump AISIN - with Gasket

P311-248C10C    W0133-1709788  New

Qty:
157.21
AISIN Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • ; Incl.Gasket & Pulley
  • with Gasket
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2019 - Honda Pilot
NPW
2017 Honda Pilot Engine Water Pump NPW - with Gasket

P311-031B1B2    W0133-1709788  New

Qty:
93.07
NPW Engine Water Pump
  • ; Incl.Gasket & Pulley
  • Includes Gasket & Pulley
  • with Gasket
Brand: NPW
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2017 - Honda Pilot
Metrix
2001 Honda Passport Engine Water Pump Metrix

P311-4C41018    W0133-1605465  New

Qty:
45.59
Metrix Engine Water Pump
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Honda Passport
Paraut
2001 Honda Passport Engine Water Pump Paraut - with Gasket (NLA 1/15)

P311-0D79749    W0133-1605465  New

Qty:
135.63
Paraut Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • with Gasket
  • with Gasket (NLA 1/15)
Brand: Paraut
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Honda Passport
Metrix
1998 Honda Passport Engine Water Pump Metrix

P311-4C41018    W0133-1605465  New

Qty:
45.59
Metrix Engine Water Pump
  • ; Production: 07/1997-
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1998 - Honda Passport Fr:07-00-97
Paraut
1998 Honda Passport Engine Water Pump Paraut - with Gasket (NLA 1/15)

P311-0D79749    W0133-1605465  New

Qty:
135.63
Paraut Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • ; Production: 07/1997-
  • with Gasket
  • with Gasket (NLA 1/15)
Brand: Paraut
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1998 - Honda Passport Fr:07-00-97

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2003 honda element

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From toolman0007 on 2003 honda element

I have a 2003 honda element 2.4 automatic. preparing to do a water pump on this thing. was wondering if anyone has what book time calls for the replacement.

Response From kev2 Top Rated Answer

Labor Times
Factory...... Regular...... Severe
0.0 ...........3.5 ............3.7

Includes Includes: Refill with proper coolant mix.
Addons

...... Factory...... Regular...... Severe
/AC add 0.0......... 0.3 .........0.3
/PS add 0.0..........0.3.......... 0.3

Response From toolman0007

thanks so much for your time. now I can plan for this a bit better.

03 honda element no heat

Showing 6 out of 41 Posts | Show 35 Hidden Posts
Question From toolman0007 on 03 honda element no heat

have this 2003 honda element again. with this cold snap it's putting out very little heat. after a good bit of running
top hose was good and warm, bottom hose was cold. thought it might be thermostat. replaced it not much of a change.
because it has A/C it's my understanding it would have a heater control valve, or bypass valve when you go from heat to A/C. if so where is it located ? or is there something else I may not be aware of. just replaced the leaking water pump about 12 days ago.

Response From Hammer Time

With the engine at full operating temp, locate the 2 heater hoses where they go into the firewall and feel them to see if they are both hot to the touch. If not too hot to hold, then you have to look at the actual engine temp and if that is up, if it is, then your looking at a restricted heater core or poor circulation for another reason.
If you find that they are both too hot to hold, then the heat in that vehicle is controlled by a blend door that regulates heated air flow. it is operated by an electric motor/actuator. The problem can be that the actuator is stripped or inoperative or the door itself could be damaged. This is what needs to be determined by examining the actuator and see if it is responding to heat change commands or not.

Response From toolman0007

kinda put off anymore checking till the am. thanks for the info, and putting me in the right direction.
I was informed that a stop leak product was used when they noticed the coolant leak.(water pump) whats your input on that. my view is it is unhealthy for the cooling system and could cause blockage.

Response From Hammer Time

Very bad.............. That could be your whole problem. The heater core could be all plugged up with the sealer but do the testing to find out.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

From first post " after a good bit of running
top hose was good and warm, bottom hose was cold."


Yep - now knowing stop leak was used that would easily be the whole problem. So little coolant can get thru it that what does would cool to airflow temp fast and produce little to no heat.


Flush it out forward and backward. In fact do whole cooling system and get that sealer stuff out.


Sealers are useful for one last run to junk a car driving it there vs paying for a tow and that's about it on that,


T

Response From Hammer Time

I think the radiator hose temps are irrelevant here. The issue is lack of heat in the heater, not overheating in the radiator. That would have no bearing on the heater temp. Concentrate on the heater hoses and their temp. It's normal for the lower radiator hose to be cooler if the radiator has done it's job as long as the truck is not overheating.

Response From toolman0007

the element is back. ok after a good bit of running, checking heater hoses one facing fire wall, on the right very warm. one on the left very cold. conclusion no flow through heater core. some one advised flushing it.? have a new one on hand. looks like a real bear to get to. thinking dash has to be dropped . going to try flushing just the core and see if I can get flow. just on the chance anyone ever replace one on these things before, what kind of nightmare am I looking at ? LOL

Response From GC

Havent had the joy of doing one, but I went with the Ex since I wasnt sure what you had. It shows about 8rs labor. Have to recover and recharge a/c system on top of that, if you have a/c. Definitely try flushing it.

Response From toolman0007

well took the reversible pump I have a good bucket of hot water and I have good flow in both directions. I even pulled the inline flow valve. it moved before but wanted to check how easy by hand. there was mention of a flow door actuator in above responses. will be checking that as well. so far still have not found why this had no heat ??

Response From Hammer Time

Don't worry about the blend door until you have 2 hot hoses.

Response From toolman0007

ok heater core has flow. put it all back together. and using just water, let it run for about 15 min both hoses at the core are warm. took it for a good 5 mile ride. both hoses at the core much warmer but bottom hose on the radiator was still cold. peeking in to the radiator I can see quite a bit of build up of what i would presume to be the stop leak that was put in. it does not appear to have flow through the radiator. it tends to back up when throttle is applied heat getting to the inside better but it's not zero out today

Response From Hammer Time

I told you to stop worrying about the radiator hoses. They won't prevent the car from having heat. The lower hose is supposed to be cooler. That's what a radiator does.

Response From toolman0007

hammer I get how it works. but with the length of time running I would think the thermostat would be open or had been open enough to warm the bottom hose. apparently not. so how long do you feel this thing should run before it should be putting out heat. temp today is 30

Response From Hammer Time

The temp of the radiator has no bearing on the heater temp. Engine coolant starts circulating through the heater core long before the thermostat lets it into the radiator. The temp of the upper hose is an accurate comparison of engine temp once the T-stat opens. Don't even worry about the lower hose. Heater temp should gradually increase starting almost immediately after start up.

Response From toolman0007

ok have had this thing running for a good 45 min enough where cooling fans kick in (should both come on) ? hoses at heater core the one with the flow valve is hot, the other is just good and warm. hot being I can't hold it for long . I know im getting circulation through the core, but still feel what heat I am getting is still low in temp. while I'm at this thing I want to do a complete flush to attempt to get all the stop leak out, just a good long flush with hot water should do. whats your take

Response From Hammer Time

I would remove both heater hoses and use a garden hose under pressure and blast it in both directions. I wouldn't be trying to do this in freezing temps. that will be a losing battle. If that doesn't work, then you just have to replace the core.

Make sure you are getting hot on both sides of that heater control valve too.

Response From toolman0007

ok I'm in doors in a garage. to old for the out doors LOl. as I stated earlier I set it up with a pump 6gpm and had good flow both ways. you feel I could use more pressure ? house psi 65-70

Response From Hammer Time

70lbs of water pressure in your house? Are you sure about that? I would expect the average house to be 10 to 20 PSI. That's about all city water pressure is. There isn't a garden hose in the world that will survive 70 PSI. You don't want to exceed 20 in that core. If it's not working, just replace the core.

Response From toolman0007

this can be considered closed as it has been well over a week and the heat is working fine now thanks for every ones help and advice

Response From toolman0007

yes on the pressure can't use a standard garden hose. heavy commercial rubber hose standing psi 65 and running is about 59 psi. been that way for a long time. are there any products out there that are designed to brake up or neutralize stop leak ?.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

#1 - Don't use that much pressure as you can blow your new water pump and too much for radiator ends and about everything not made for that pressure.


IDK what help or harm the isle of assorted junk can do or what harm. Among them is flush for cooling systems. There has to be 20 different brands of sealer and think most is just concoctions of saw dust and perhaps fine ground rubber bits. Containers will claim anything to sell products and could care less if the work or cause harm.


Haven't needed the radiator shops for ages and most gone that I knew of. They would dunk whole radiators in some acid bath and don't know what type of acid but when parts were brass and copper would come out stripped of paint then ready to solder leaks or put a new core on reusable end tanks but not practical any more.


Never done it have heard of using automatic dishwasher soaps and flush all that out too. So many bogus claims but the junk in a bottle stuff I'll just say AYOR if you try one as a flush product,


T

Response From toolman0007

I am cautious and aware on the hole pressure thing. did a good 20 min flush both through the heater core and rad and block, separately. I'm getting heat but it sure does take a bit of time to get there. at least 20 min of run time or more. it was suggested that I just replace the heater core. kinda hard to justify with the amount of flow there is through it. I personally am not a fan of any stop leak products. internals were never meant for that crap. better to fix the problem than to apply a band aid to it. in the long run one is better off

Response From GC

I have had some success with filling the heater core with CLR and letting it sit for 20 min or so, then flushing core again. Only as last resort, since its not recommended by manufacturer. Ive never had it cause a problem with a core, but I suppose it could, so I dont do it unless the only other option is replacing the core.

Response From toolman0007

another thought i had considered, even more so now given the orientation of the core. my goal was to fix the problem but was only going to consider replacement as a last resort. time will tell as she drives the car. still holding the part for a few days.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Tell me toolman the orientation of the blower motor to the heater core if you would as I can't look that up? Some you get a good view of it and can touch it or IR thermo it to see if it's got a cold spot. Flow on this stuff as DS brought up may not be straight line for cleaning out so easy or at all.


All but so very few are a LOT of time and careful attention to just remove and replace plus little crap and things can break easily, how well sealed and with what messed up. Hate them as you can see. There's no doubt to me that everything is tight for work space in this and about everything


Never mind what a new one costs but what a waste of time if not conclusive to change it out and be done with this problem,


T

Response From Hammer Time

It's been very clear throughout this question that he has a temperature problem, not an air flow problem and a plugged up heater core is the only possibility out there. He has already determined that by the temp of the heater hoses.

His only options at this point id to either get it flushed which has been futile for the reasons DS pointed out or replace the core.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Was on PMs about this with him that's it's open. He can take it out (very used to dash work as an auto body guy) and will try to clear it or replace. Waiting to get some funky temp measuring stuff that I'm about sure will prove it has cold spots or whole area.


It's the challenge now not the bucks. Might be good archives for what sealer can really wreck. Of all things in the junk fix isles there should be one that reverses effects of stuff of the sort that really works IMO! Tom


PS: @ HT. Do you recall the brand name Zerex antifreeze? 1960s or so. TV ads they poked holes in the gallon jug of it and it sealed them! Haven't seen the brand name on anything. It wouldn't or couldn't be useful on H.E. cooling systems and was supposed to be proactive not after the fact. Never used it then either.........

Response From Hammer Time

PS: @ HT. Do you recall the brand name Zerex antifreeze? 1960s or so. TV ads they poked holes in the gallon jug of it and it sealed them!

No, that's a new one on me.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I swear it's not a brain phart. Still long ago and might have been a metal qt. can........



Best I could find. ?? Tom

Response From Hammer Time

Back when radiators were copper and the passages were like tunnels. That stuff was pretty harmless back then. Not any more.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Unlocked as not quite done yet and he has a plan......... Tom

Response From Discretesignals

It's not so much the orientation, but the flow design. It doesn't take much to clog up those small transfer tubes. You may not be able to use water flow through the inlet and outlet pipes to flush out the clogged tubes, because the water flow will go through the good tubes. Water is going to flow through the path of least resistance. That is why radiator shops have to remove the tanks on radiators to rod tubes out.


edit:

Good to see you got it figured out. Closed per request by OP. Can be reopened upon request.

Response From toolman0007

just a thank you for your time. calling this one a wrap,

Response From toolman0007

just a thought, why would the manufacture suggest a fix when they would much rather sell the labor and parts LOL,
tricks of the trade, what we learn when we just don't follow what we are told. or apply a bit of critical thinking.
thank you

Response From Discretesignals

Another thing to consider is the heater core is a parallel flow design. That means that half the core could be clogged and you would still have flow through it, but only half the heating ability. Sometimes you can't effectively flush out something like that because there is more than one passage for the water to flow through.

&imagekey=3607500-0&width=450

Response From toolman0007

a point I did not consider, core orientation. another engineer design flaw LOL. inverted the other way would seem better,
just not sure if air would be an issue. thanks for your point

Response From Tom Greenleaf

? Didn't see it mentioned but does this car have good air flow thru vents? Does it use a cabin air filter? Rodent issues chewing up or nesting with junk even a maybe?


The flushes scare me more with so much assorted alloys used and would think an acid. Never did use it on anything so difficult to comment much.


You did say takes a while to warm up in this somewhere. That's a bit unusual to me for this generation of vehicle as warming up quickly helps reduce emissions and sooner to get the best MPGs.


General: Heat should be direct engine coolant temp available. Must be free of air. Thermostat should stay pretty much shut off to radiator till it reaches the rating of it. If the hose from thermostat to radiator gets warm much at all before up to operating temp there's a problem with that IMO. Check that as so far this isn't fixed so something still isn't right so check what you can,


T

Response From toolman0007

yes there is plenty of air flow, but the filter is a very good point, not sure if it has ever been serviced. I will note that thanks. I timed it this morning a 10 min run and it was putting out heat. temp climbed a good bit when rpms were brought up to about 2000. all seems well

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

30 degrees with pure water in the system? Is that a good idea?

Response From toolman0007

water is just for the testing, had to drain to check heater core will be putting coolant back in. planning a complete flush to get rid of stop leak

Response From toolman0007

DUH you have a point there. thanks

Honda Accord engine noise

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From bokogabe on Honda Accord engine noise

Hi everyone. I have a Honda Accord 1999 SiR-T, with DOHC F20B engine. It sounds bad on low revs. Can somebody tell me what might be the problem?
Here's the link to the video:

Thank you.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Sounds to me like the timing belt is getting ready to come apart. It may be a bad water pump. Don't let that belt come apart or you will be buying a new engine.

1999 Honda Accord with noise from engine

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From kirkj48 on 1999 Honda Accord with noise from engine

I have a 1999 Honda Accord - 4 cylinder, 4 door automatic - with 375,000 KM. The car has been running great but a few weeks ago, I started hearing a "screeching" noise from the engine every time I put my foot on the gas.

I thought it was a belt or the alternator. I changed the alternator (belt was good) but noise was still there. When I disconnected the belts for the power steering, alternator and the AC, the noise was still there. A quick look at the timing belt showed it needed replacing so I replaced the timing belt and the water pump.

I still have the noise even with the PS, AC and alternator belts not connected.

A friend changed the timing belt and water pump for $150 and I really don't want to spend too much more on the car given the mileage. I'm guess the issue is coming from the engine. Any ideas what else it may be other than "expensive" engine repair?

Thanks

John

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Can you record the noise and upload it to a video hosting site and paste the link in here? Maybe listening to it could give us some clues.

Response From kirkj48

Thanks for your interest.

I'm not sure how to upload it to a video hosting site. I know little about cars .... less about technology. I do have the "noise" recorded as a wave file but I guess you can't simply attach the file.

The screeching noise is still there when the I hit the gas, but now the car is very loud even when just idling. Almost like a muffler issue.

Thanks

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Silly test if you think exhaust something. With heavy gloves and damp rag just plug off (don't freaking burn yourself please) see if the noise totally changes or goes away?

The hosting sites even I don't use and this site doesn't have anything so easy for me either and never did. I'm getting so sick of wires and devices all over the place there's more that in a space shuttle now!

Soooo - for pictures or sound you can use photobucket or YouTube - whatever device you use just copy and paste from your browser and should paste to here as a clickable link. I'm no geek either and the nanosecond I get the hang of one the device goes to hell and the new one is all different.

I drive a 1956 Desoto because of it! No, but not far from it. I don't need my car to try to tell me door is ajar, it's a damn door fool thing! Smile

Tom

96 Honda Accord Crankshaft Pulley and Crankshaft Damaged?

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Question From Neptun3 on 96 Honda Accord Crankshaft Pulley and Crankshaft Damaged?

Hello everyone, so I was driving the other day and both my alternator and power steering belts popped off. I checked under the hood to see what the problem was and I noticed that the pulley which uses both belts was loose. I tightened it and put the belts back on, started the car and the belts popped off again. So then I unscrewed the pulley to check it out and saw that a small part of the teeth got worn out and therefore wouldn't stay properly on the crankshaft. I also looked under the car and saw that the part where it connects to on the crankshaft was a little worn out as well.

Pic of Pulley:



Pulley up close:



Crankshaft (Where the pulley connects to):



Is there anyway to fix this? Would perhaps getting a new pulley be sufficient to preventing it from getting loose and the belts from popping off again?

Thanks.

Response From nickwarner

That part is your harmonic balancer. It dampens vibrations from your running engine. If you run a bad one long enough the crankshaft can physically snap in two. At minimum it will hammer apart your rod and main bearings which would require an overhaul to repair.

Get a new balancer and make sure the crankshaft splines are OK. Cranks are made of a harder steel than the balancer so it should likely be alright. Those splines didn't fail on their own, so closely inspect the crank pulley threads to be sure they are ok along with the bolt. Running it loose will wreck it. Repair any threads you find damaged, get a new bolt of the identical size and grade, and put some blue Loctite on it when you install it. I would also replace the keyway on the crank. Its pretty beat up from getting loose.

Response From Neptun3

Thanks guys for the responses. I really appreciate it. How would I go about removing the keyway on the crank?

Response From Hammer Time

Just tap it out with a screwdriver and small hammer. It's pushed into a groove tightly.

Response From Discretesignals

That key is also used by the timing belt crank sprocket.

Response From Hammer Time

Didn't realize that. that means the timing belt and crank gear have to be removed first.

Response From Discretesignals

Going to have a good ole time getting the sprocket off. It has to slide over the bad part of the key. You'll probably have to file the bad spot off, so you get the sprocket over it.


You should replace the crankshaft pulley bolt too since it has been chucking around. Make sure the bolt is tightened to 183 ft/lbs. Don't run the engine anymore until you fix that. Don't try to rig it with duct tape or JB weld. Fix it right the first time using the right parts.

Your lucky the key didn't shear at the belt sprocket or you would be ripping the head off.

Response From nickwarner

This would be the ideal time to change your timing belt, idlers, tensioner and water pump with a Gates kit. You'll have to take it off anyway and I'd be willing to bet its dues for service. You will need to follow the service info to the letter when you do it, as once you take the timing belt off if you turn that engine at all you WILL bend valves in the head and be facing a very very expensive problem. We can help you work your way through that if you wish, but you will need to follow our instructions to the letter if you want to be able to drive it again later. If you think this job might be over your head, you should have it towed to a competent shop.

Response From Hammer Time

I wouldn't be surprised if a substandard timing belt job is what started this whole mess. Somebody left that crank pulley loose.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

I am very sure of that HT. You know how hard them Honda bolts are too get off. You practically need a 1" impact to get it off. I am sure a lot of DIY don't have the special tool to hold the balancer hub when you go to tighten the bolt. They think it is tight because they can't hold the crank from turning anymore with their hands or water pump pliers...LOL. Trying to put 183 ft/lbs on a bolt without the crank turning while laying on a gravel driveway has to be a mother.

Response From Neptun3

Thanks guys for the responses I really appreciate it. A timing belt job seems kinda difficult so I don't think I would be able to do it by myself and I don't have the money to take it to a shop and have it done there.

I tried pulling the woodruff key out with vice grips using all of my strength and it's not coming out. However, when I put the pulley onto the key it seats correctly so is it possible that I'm just not tightening the bolt hard enough? When I tighten it at a certain point and continue tightening, the pulley and bolt move together so I really can't tighten it anymore. Do I need a special tool for tightening it to the correct torque spec (183 ft/lbs)?

Response From Hammer Time

No, that pulley and keyway were destroyed. Don't even try to put that back together that way. You will be buying an engine for sure.

Response From nickwarner

With HT on this, and yes there is a special tool to hold that still while torquing the bolt to spec.

Response From Neptun3

Hey looks like I was able to get the key out! I wasn't pulling on the right part but now it's out.

Woodruff key:



Crank pulley with no key:



So I guess all I have to do now is get a new key and harmonic balancer. Is there a specific way to lock the new key in or does it just push in and stay secure?

Response From Hammer Time

The key is supposed too remove any sort of wobble or movement in the pulley when it is slid on. If there is any wear in the slot that allows the key to move at all, then you have a serious problem with the crank shaft. If the Crank is still OK, then just make sure the hold down bolt is tightened to proper torque.

Response From Neptun3

Oh ok, is the key shaped differently on both sides? If so which side goes in first? Also, I can't seem to find the key anywhere online. I tried calling 1A Auto to see if the key came with the harmonic balancer and they said I would have to buy it separately.

Response From Hammer Time

No, you're going to have to get that from the dealer. The key will only settle in one way.

Response From Neptun3

Oh, well I just found out RockAuto sells the key with the harmonic balancer so I'm probably gonna go with that. One more thing, how do I know when it's at the correct torque spec while tightening? Thanks again for the help everyone.

Response From Hammer Time

181 foot pounds

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Neptun3 : You know it's there with a torque wrench - probably rentable if you don't care to own one,

T

Response From Discretesignals

Hope you didn't turn the crank with the key out or valve spring pressure didn't rotate the timing belt drive sprocket.

Response From Neptun3

I cannot get this bolt to tighten to 185 ft/lbs torque. At first I tightened it with a ratchet until the pulley began to move with the bolt. Then I used the honda crank pulley holder and a breaker bar to hold the pulley in place and a torque wrench to try to tighten it. I am literally using all of my strength and this thing has not turned at all. Here are some pics of how I have it set up.

Honda crank pulley holder w/ breaker bar and torque wrench:



Close up of crank pulley holder:



Why won't this bolt tighten? I put on a new harmonic balancer and woodruff key by the way.

Response From Neptun3

I think I got it on tight enough. After putting the belts back on I was able to drive the car around! While it was on I checked under the hood and noticed the harmonic balancer looked like it was shaking a little bit as it was rotating. Is it supposed to look like that while the car is running? I'll try to upload a video later when my car battery is done charging.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

No. It should be as true as true gets. Is it perfectly lined up in 'plane' with belt to other pulleys? Should be.

I take it that it's moving as a wobble not up and down. IDK - can you see center part and bolt move and outer ring moving and those not? IMO there could be a defective balancer, crankshaft + balancer didn't actually mesh together properly from damage or damage to the new balancer along the way in it's installation. Hard to say right now. If crankshaft itself could be real trouble. How long it could last that way if so is a guess at best if running well now,

T

Response From Neptun3

Here's a video of the harmonic balancer while the car is running. I know the camera is kinda shaky but try to see if you can see the harmonic balancer sort of move left and right.


Response From Neptun3

I think I'm gonna just try to remove it and then tighten it again starting with the torque wrench to make sure it's on solid.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Been watching all along. Pondering this tool shown in this pic you took.....


"Harmonic Balancer" :: The center as you know is about pressed in place by that bolt. The outer metal that has the belt grooves is isolated by rubber giving those things the ability to absorb the vibrations. The tool is holding the outer part on thru the rubber to hold the center which is the crank of course.

Did that tool really torque on the outer part?

Sorry if a repeat but can you get a view while running to see if inner metal and bolt are running true and outer is not? I'd want to know if the crank is at fault or the new balancer just isn't true for whatever reason.

You video of it was inconclusive to me. Someone may have better eyes (most do) than I do and didn't really conclude it was moving too much.

Just wondering just what is or isn't just right at this point. It may be the best way to hold crank while tightening that bolt but my gut says that is not a preferred way despite that a tool to do just such is made??


Tom

Response From Neptun3

Been watching all along. Pondering this tool shown in this pic you took.....


"Harmonic Balancer" :: The center as you know is about pressed in place by that bolt. The outer metal that has the belt grooves is isolated by rubber giving those things the ability to absorb the vibrations. The tool is holding the outer part on thru the rubber to hold the center which is the crank of course.

Did that tool really torque on the outer part?

Sorry if a repeat but can you get a view while running to see if inner metal and bolt are running true and outer is not? I'd want to know if the crank is at fault or the new balancer just isn't true for whatever reason.

You video of it was inconclusive to me. Someone may have better eyes (most do) than I do and didn't really conclude it was moving too much.

Just wondering just what is or isn't just right at this point. It may be the best way to hold crank while tightening that bolt but my gut says that is not a preferred way despite that a tool to do just such is made??


Tom

Based on the information you gave me I'm not quite actually sure what kind of video you want me to take but here's this one to view. All of these car terms are new to me so I am trying my best to follow along. If it's not what you were asking I don't mind taking another one.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Never mind videos - I want to know if crankshaft or pulley is bent........... If you can't tell the difference the job isn't for you,

T

Response From nickwarner

We can't see in the dark. If you post a vid of a part, make sure that part is actually in it and shown clearly. If you want to show a harmonic balancer then don't stand up outside your car, pull a tire and the inner fender to shoot the part you ask about. That vid was useless.

Response From Hammer Time

The key-way is destroyed from running loose. If you're real luck you may be able to replace the key-way and pulley and save it. If you're not so lucky, the crank is damaged and you're looking for an engine.
Maker sure the new key-way fits tight with no wobble. If the slot in the crank is damaged, you are looking at another engine.