Finish Selecting Your Vehicle to Shop For Your Water Pump

Choose a Year for your Geo 's Water Pump

  • 1997
  • 1996
  • 1995
  • 1994
  • 1993
  • 1992
  • 1991
  • 1990
  • 1989

Shop By Brand

The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • ACDelco
    ACDelco
  • Airtex
    Airtex
  • Aisin
    Aisin
  • Beck Arnley
    Beck Arnley
  • Cardone
    Cardone
  • DJ Rock
    DJ Rock
  • GMB
    GMB
  • Gates
    Gates
  • Metrix
    Metrix

Best Selling Genuine Geo Water Pumps

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including GMB, Cardone, Aisin, Beck Arnley, ACDelco, Airtex
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Geo Replacement Water Pump Parts

We stock Water Pump parts for most Geo models, including Metro, Prizm, Spectrum, Storm, Tracker.

GMB
1989 Geo Metro Engine Water Pump GMB

P311-1E63051    W0133-1695620  New

Qty:
$43.53
GMB Engine Water Pump
  • Includes Gasket
Brand: GMB
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1989 - Geo Metro
GMB
1997 Geo Prizm Engine Water Pump - N/A 4 Cyl 1.6L GMB

P311-308723A    170-1830  New

Qty:
$20.73
GMB Engine Water Pump  N/A
  • New Water Pump
  • Pump wo/Housing
  • Product Attributes:
    • : New
    • Housing Material: Aluminum
    • Hub Height: 3.03
    • Impeller Material: Metal
    • Impeller Rotation: Standard
Brand: GMB
Position: N/A
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
1997 - Geo Prizm L 1588 98 N/A
GMB
1997 Geo Prizm Engine Water Pump - N/A 4 Cyl 1.8L GMB

P311-4113ABE    170-1860  New

Qty:
$25.07
GMB Engine Water Pump  N/A
  • New Water Pump
  • Pump wo/Housing
  • Product Attributes:
    • : New
    • Housing Material: Aluminum
    • Hub Height: 3.03
    • Impeller Material: Metal
    • Impeller Rotation: Standard
Brand: GMB
Position: N/A
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
1997 - Geo Prizm L 1762 107 N/A
GMB
1989 Geo Prizm Engine Water Pump - N/A 4 Cyl 1.6L GMB

P311-3DA833A    170-1580  New

Qty:
$18.44
GMB Engine Water Pump  N/A
  • New Water Pump
  • Product Attributes:
    • : New
    • Housing Material: Aluminum
    • Hub Height: 3.02
    • Impeller Material: Metal
    • Impeller Rotation: Standard
Brand: GMB
Position: N/A
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
1989 - Geo Prizm L 1588 98 N/A
GMB
1991 Geo Metro Engine Water Pump - N/A 3 Cyl 1.0L GMB

P311-5446730    165-1150  New

Qty:
$22.33
GMB Engine Water Pump  N/A
  • New Water Pump
  • Product Attributes:
    • : New
    • Housing Material: Aluminum
    • Hub Height: 2.83
    • Impeller Material: Metal
    • Impeller Rotation: Standard
Brand: GMB
Position: N/A
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
1991 - Geo Metro L 993 61 N/A
GMB
1993 Geo Tracker Engine Water Pump - N/A GMB

P311-041350B    165-1160  New

Qty:
$21.19
GMB Engine Water Pump  N/A
  • New Water Pump
  • Product Attributes:
    • : New
    • Housing Material: Aluminum
    • Hub Height: 3.15
    • Impeller Material: Metal
    • Impeller Rotation: Standard
Brand: GMB
Position: N/A
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1993 - Geo Tracker N/A
Cardone
1997 Geo Tracker Engine Water Pump Cardone

P311-41FBE3F    55-13130  New

Qty:
$31.36
Cardone Engine Water Pump
  • New Water Pump
  • New CARDONE SELECT Water Pump
  • Product Attributes:
    • Duty Rating: Standard
    • E-Waste: No
    • FAQs:
      • After Mounting The Pump On The Vehicle And Running The Engine, The Shaft Broke. The Shaft Was Blue. Does This Mean The Pump Burned Up?
      • Do I Need Identification Off Of The Original Pump To Get The Correct Replacement?
      • For Most Modern Vehicles, Knowing The Engine Size Is Sufficient To Locate The Correct Replacement Water Pump. However, With Some Older Passenger Vehicles And Medium Duty Applications, You May Need An Identification Number That Is Either Stamped On The Ori
      • I Just Replaced The Water Pump And My Engine Is Overheating. Is The Pump Defective?
      • The Engine Overheating Could Be Due To Components Other Than The Water Pump. The Following Steps Should Be Taken Before Checking The Pump. Flush The System. Check Hoses, Clamps And Seals. Check Radiator Cap And Thermostat. Check For Proper And Sufficient
      • The Impeller On My Original Pump Looks Pitted. Is This Caused By Cavitation?
      • The Pump Did Not Burn Up, However The Shaft Broke Due To A Stress Fracture Caused By: Excessively High Temperatures, Improperly Torqued Mounting Bolts, Bent Or Distorted Pulley(s), Cracked Fan Bent, Not Mounted Squarely, Defective Fan Clutch, Improperly T
      • Yes, The Mostly Likely Cause Is Cavitation. When Inlet Pressures Of A Water Pump Fall Below The Design Specifications Due To A Leak Or Inadequate Coolant Levels, Tiny Vapor Bubbles Can Form In The Coolant At The Center Of The Impeller. When Coolant Conta
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% Leak Testing And Hub-pull Testing Ensures Reliable Performance.
      • O.e.-supplied New Unitized Seals Ensure Long-lasting, Trouble-free Performance.
      • The Proper O.e. Specified Bearing Design Is Installed To Meet The Specific Radial And Axial Load Requirements Of Each Application. This Ensures Longer Bearing Life And Reliable Performance.
      • Thermostat Seal And Mounting Gasket Are Supplied For Ease Of Installation (where Applicable).
    • Gaskets Included: Yes
    • Hub Height (in): 3.15
    • Hub Height (mm): 80.01
    • Impeller Vane Quantity: 7
    • Material: Aluminum
    • Mounting Hardware Included: No
    • Number of Hose Connectors: 0
    • Package Contents: Water Pump, Gaskets
    • Product Condition: New
    • Pulley Included: No
    • Rotation: Counter-clockwise
  • Building on decades of experience using reverse engineering to remanufacture automotive pumps, CARDONE engineers have meticulously designed our CARDONE New Water Pumps to match O.E. performance. Each unit is 100% leak and hub-pull tested to ensure reliability. Supplied with O.E.-grade unitized seals, CARDONE New Water Pumps provide O.E. performance you can rely on.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1997 - Geo Tracker
Aisin
1991 Geo Prizm Engine Water Pump 4 Cyl 1.6L Aisin

P311-208FBD7    WPT-055  New

Qty:
$44.52
Aisin Engine Water Pump
  • Engine Water Pump
  • Aluminum die cast OE manufactured water pumps from the largest water pump manufacturer in the world
Brand: Aisin
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Engine Designation Submodel
1991 - Geo Prizm L 1587 - 4A-GE GSi
Aisin
1991 Geo Prizm Engine Water Pump 4 Cyl 1.6L Aisin

P311-5E56157    WPT-046  New

Qty:
$50.02
Aisin Engine Water Pump
  • Engine Water Pump
  • Part Attribute 1 Water Pump with Housing Part Attribute 2 Hub: 4 bolt
  • Aluminum die cast OE manufactured water pumps from the largest water pump manufacturer in the world
Brand: Aisin
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Engine Designation
1991 - Geo Prizm L 1587 - 4A-FE
Aisin
1993 Geo Prizm Engine Water Pump 4 Cyl 1.8L Aisin

P311-038B652    WPT-033  New

Qty:
$61.35
Aisin Engine Water Pump
  • Engine Water Pump
  • Part Attribute 1 Water Pump with Housing
  • Aluminum die cast OE manufactured water pumps from the largest water pump manufacturer in the world
Brand: Aisin
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Submodel
1993 - Geo Prizm L 1762 107 LSi
Aisin
1993 Geo Prizm Engine Water Pump 4 Cyl 1.6L Aisin

P311-4663D4E    WPT-018  New

Qty:
$38.62
Aisin Engine Water Pump
  • Engine Water Pump
  • Part Attribute 1 Water Pump w/o Housing
  • Aluminum die cast OE manufactured water pumps from the largest water pump manufacturer in the world
Brand: Aisin
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1993 - Geo Prizm L 1588 98
Beck Arnley
1989 Geo Tracker Engine Water Pump 4 Cyl 1.6L Beck Arnley

P311-55CCC2C    131-2111  New

Qty:
$41.60
Beck Arnley Engine Water Pump
  • WATER PUMP
  • Metal Impeller
  • Beck/Arnley parts meet foreign nameplate OE specifications for form, fit and function. Our product specialists work with a network of global sourcing partners so you can install the right part with confidence.
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1989 - Geo Tracker L 1588 98
Aisin
1993 Geo Prizm Engine Water Pump 4 Cyl 1.6L Aisin

P311-2CD64D9    WPT-108  New

Qty:
$63.03
Aisin Engine Water Pump
  • Engine Water Pump
  • Part Attribute 1 Water Pump with Housing
  • Aluminum die cast OE manufactured water pumps from the largest water pump manufacturer in the world
Brand: Aisin
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1993 - Geo Prizm L 1588 98
Beck Arnley
1991 Geo Prizm Engine Water Pump 4 Cyl 1.6L Beck Arnley

P311-53768F3    131-2004  New

Qty:
$41.39
Beck Arnley Engine Water Pump
  • WATER PUMP
  • Metal Impeller
  • Beck/Arnley parts meet foreign nameplate OE specifications for form, fit and function. Our product specialists work with a network of global sourcing partners so you can install the right part with confidence.
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Engine VIN Submodel
1991 - Geo Prizm L 1587 - 6 Base
Cardone
1997 Geo Metro Engine Water Pump Cardone

P311-589E88F    57-1348  Remanufactured

Qty:
$4.50 $23.61
Cardone Engine Water Pump
  • Remanufactured Water Pump
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Water Pump
  • Product Attributes:
    • Casting Number: Aisin
    • Duty Rating: Standard
    • E-Waste: No
    • FAQs:
      • After Mounting The Pump On The Vehicle And Running The Engine, The Shaft Broke. The Shaft Was Blue. Does This Mean The Pump Burned Up?
      • Do I Need Identification Off Of The Original Pump To Get The Correct Replacement?
      • For Most Modern Vehicles, Knowing The Engine Size Is Sufficient To Locate The Correct Replacement Water Pump. However, With Some Older Passenger Vehicles And Medium Duty Applications, You May Need An Identification Number That Is Either Stamped On The Ori
      • I Just Replaced The Water Pump And My Engine Is Overheating. Is The Pump Defective?
      • The Engine Overheating Could Be Due To Components Other Than The Water Pump. The Following Steps Should Be Taken Before Checking The Pump. Flush The System. Check Hoses, Clamps And Seals. Check Radiator Cap And Thermostat. Check For Proper And Sufficient
      • The Impeller On My Original Pump Looks Pitted. Is This Caused By Cavitation?
      • The Pump Did Not Burn Up, However The Shaft Broke Due To A Stress Fracture Caused By: Excessively High Temperatures, Improperly Torqued Mounting Bolts, Bent Or Distorted Pulley(s), Cracked Fan Bent, Not Mounted Squarely, Defective Fan Clutch, Improperly T
      • Yes, The Mostly Likely Cause Is Cavitation. When Inlet Pressures Of A Water Pump Fall Below The Design Specifications Due To A Leak Or Inadequate Coolant Levels, Tiny Vapor Bubbles Can Form In The Coolant At The Center Of The Impeller. When Coolant Conta
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% Leak Testing And Hub-pull Testing Ensures Reliable Performance.
      • O.e.-supplied New Unitized Seals Ensure Long-lasting, Trouble-free Performance.
      • The Proper O.e. Specified Bearing Design Is Installed To Meet The Specific Radial And Axial Load Requirements Of Each Application. This Ensures Longer Bearing Life And Reliable Performance.
      • Thermostat Seal And Mounting Gasket Are Supplied For Ease Of Installation (where Applicable).
    • Gaskets Included: Yes
    • Hub Height (in): 2.81
    • Hub Height (mm): 71.45
    • Impeller Vane Quantity: 7
    • Material: Aluminum, Cast Iron, Steel
    • Mounting Hardware Included: No
    • Number of Hose Connectors: 0
    • Package Contents: Water Pump, Gaskets
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
    • Pulley Included: No
    • Rotation: Counter-clockwise
  • CARDONE Remanufactured Water Pumps are re-engineered, built and tested to match O.E. performance. Each unit features new, O.E.-supplied unitized seals and application-specific bearings to ensure long-lasting, trouble-free product life. With 100% leak and hub-pull testing, CARDONE Remanufactured Water Pumps provide peace of mind for the long haul.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1997 - Geo Metro
Beck Arnley
1993 Geo Prizm Engine Water Pump 4 Cyl 1.8L Beck Arnley

P311-537F0C3    131-2170  New

Qty:
$56.03
Beck Arnley Engine Water Pump
  • WATER PUMP
  • Metal Impeller
  • Beck/Arnley parts meet foreign nameplate OE specifications for form, fit and function. Our product specialists work with a network of global sourcing partners so you can install the right part with confidence.
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1993 - Geo Prizm L 1762 107
GMB
1990 Geo Storm Engine Water Pump - N/A 4 Cyl 1.6L GMB

P311-449EA6F    140-1330  New

Qty:
$26.17
GMB Engine Water Pump  N/A
  • New Water Pump
  • Product Attributes:
    • : New
    • Housing Material: Aluminum
    • Hub Height: 2.05
    • Impeller Material: Metal
    • Impeller Rotation: Standard
    • Water Pump Drive Type: Timing Belt
Brand: GMB
Position: N/A
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Cylinder Head Type Position
1990 - Geo Storm L 1588 98 SOHC N/A
GMB
1989 Geo Spectrum Engine Water Pump - N/A 4 Cyl 1.5L GMB

P311-041974C    140-1300  New

Qty:
$22.33
GMB Engine Water Pump  N/A
  • New Water Pump
Brand: GMB
Position: N/A
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
1989 - Geo Spectrum L 1471 92 N/A
ACDelco
1989 Geo Metro Engine Water Pump ACDelco

P311-32582E3    W0133-2056879  New

Qty:
$65.27
ACDelco Engine Water Pump
  • Professional
Brand: ACDelco
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
1989 - Geo Metro Base
Airtex
1989 Geo Tracker Engine Water Pump 4 Cyl 1.6L Airtex

P311-0F6916D    AW5048  New

Qty:
$28.64
Airtex Engine Water Pump
  • New Water Pump
Brand: Airtex
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1989 - Geo Tracker L 1588 98

Latest Geo Repair and Water Pump Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1997 Geo Tracker wont start

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on 1997 Geo Tracker wont start

I just replaced the timing belt on my 1997 Geo Tracker. Now it cranks but wont start. The cam shaft gear is lined up at 12 o'clock, the cranksahft gear is lined up also. With the #1 cylinder at top dead center, the rotor is pointing at the #1 cylinder plug and the valves are closed. Anyone have an idea?

This is a 1.6L 16 vlalve engine

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Was the belt broken? Or just replaced it for maintenance readings? Recheck your marks. All it takes is one tooth.
If everything looks okay, pull the spark plugs...they may be fuel fouled. Then, take a compression test.

Response From Guest Top Rated Answer

No the belt was intact, I was replacing the water pump which requires removing the belt, so I replaced it for pm. The plugs are good, and getting fuel. I will try the compression test and let you know what I find out. Thanks

Response From way2old

Along Loren's line of thinking--are you sure the engine was up on compression stroke when belt was lined up? If not, it is out 180 degrees.

Response From Guest

thats what I thought, so i checked and with the #1 piston TDC, the rotor is pointed at the #1 plug and the valves are closed.

My Storm starts... runs for 5-10 minutes.. stalls, then steams...

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From mr_slm on My Storm starts... runs for 5-10 minutes.. stalls, then steams...

My Storm starts... runs for 5-10 minutes.. stalls, then steams...

There is NO indication that my 1993 Geo Storm 1.6L SOHC is overheating according to my temperature gauge on the bezel inside the car.

It runs for 5-10 minutes... dies and won't turn on again until it's
cool; so I think... must be Thermostat. However, the upper rad hose
is hot and the lower one is cool... so.. how could that be?

Anyhow, anybody with ANY suggestions would be a great help.

Thanks!
Scott

Response From mr_slm

The steam is coming from the Radiator right where the Radiator fan sits... (this is only after (and just before) it has stalled...)

Thanks.... (heeeeelp)...

Response From Tom Greenleaf

There should be NO steam there and the radiator must be full at the cap then the recovery tank. If price is important see how much to get it soldered but know how much a new one is first. Can't speak for Geo but some cars will shut down when too low on oil or coolant to save the engine. If you need to fill it up to buy some time and that works use 50/50 mix if you are dealing with cold weather at all. Just water is an emergency fix but you gotta correct that right away.

The stalling may be a separate issue. Need to know it's got coolant first. Good luck, -T

Response From mr_slm

Hello... definatly has coolant... the steam occurs then the engine shuts off. (It shuts off VERY cleanly)...

HEEEEELP! :-)

Response From carjunky Top Rated Answer

Hi.

First off...


The steam is coming from the Radiator right where the Radiator fan sits... (this is only after (and just before) it has stalled...)

Thanks.... (heeeeelp)...




Can you shake the fan, (does it move a little at the connection to the engine?)
Also is there any coolant on the ground under the car? or under the fan. (maybe check the cooliant and top it off. Then start the car for 30 seconds. Shut the car off and look for water around the fans connection to the engine, if there is water or cooliant your water pump is the problem.

(the fan and fan belt actually spin the water pump, which pushes the water cooliant mix around the engine.)

If this is the case your water pump may have gone, which is why your coolant will drain and your cars computer will shut the car off.


IN Addition:
What state are you from?

I've heard if you use staight water it freezes at 32degrees, and if you use straight anti-freeze that freezes at 10 degrees, but the mix of 50 -50 freezes at -40 degrees.

I think tom is seeing if 1) you are low on cooliant, and 2) if you have a good cooliant / water mix in the car.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

?? Not sure with this but can you pin point where the steam is coming from? Make sure coolant is full and check it's freeze protection too. - T

1993 Geo Storm Issue

Showing 2 out of 21 Posts | Show 19 Hidden Posts
Question From JennaFuzz66 on 1993 Geo Storm Issue

The car is a 1993 Geo Storm, Base model, 1.6 L engine, Automatic transmission, with about 200,000 miles (The cars not where I am so I'm not 100% sure... I can go drive to where it is to check if it becomes relevant.)

Ok, so here's the issue:

This morning I went to go to school, and I noticed that while stopped at a stop sign that the RPMs were dipping into the 500's or so. But, my car has been idling odd for a few months, and mechanics say nothing is odd about that so I didn't think much of it. Well, I go to climb a hill that I climb everyday, and I'm pressing the accelerator to keep it at about 35, when suddenly the wheels locked up. I honestly dont know which wheels it was, I believe it was the front but I'm not 100% sure.

Anyways, when the wheels locked, the car acted like it still wanted to go but the brakes were on full force, so I was still holding the accelerator and the RPMs were climbing until about 5000 RPM, when I let go of the accelerator (all of that happened in a matter of seconds), the wheels unlocked upon release of the accelerator, but the car now will only go 30 MPH, and the brake and alternator (battery) "idiot lights" keep coming on together, flashing at the same time together, but randomly.

I was hoping someone could point me in the direction of what could possibly be wrong... I'm at a loss, I checked all the belts, I checked the oil, tranny fluid... I'm a girl, though, so it's not like I'm mechanically inclined or anything, I just checked the basics.

Anyways, any advice or ideas is really appreciated. Thanks.

Response From JennaFuzz66

OK, So here's an update:

First off, thanks for the tip about the brakes. Unfortunately, I do not believe the brakes are the issue. When I went to move the car, the car had zero power. It wouldnt even click when I turned the key. So I hooked it to jumper cables, let it charge about 5-7 minutes or so, hopped in, went to start the car, it didnt even turn over, lost power instantly. So the car is completely dead, wont start, wont move... We pushed it just fine to make room to jump it, so I honestly do not believe the brakes are an issue at all.

Any other ideas on what it could be?

Response From zmame

Your probably right.. does it have oil? did oil light come on at all??

Response From JennaFuzz66

Your probably right.. does it have oil? did oil light come on at all??

It has oil. The oil light never came on, no.

But I noticed the oil is thick and almost a black color. :/ but I wonder if that's just cause I havent had time to do the oil change recently and it's cold outside in WA...

Response From zmame

How long (time and distance) has it been since your last oil change? I would suspect something internally wrong with the engine. try cranking with a break bar socket on crank pully bolt see if you can turn it.

Response From JennaFuzz66

How long (time and distance) has it been since your last oil change? I would suspect something internally wrong with the engine. try cranking with a break bar socket on crank pully bolt see if you can turn it.

I would estimate 5000 miles or so? I dont remember the date off the top of my head... I know I shoulda changed it sooner, I was actually gonna do it this weekend but I guess thats not happening now :/

Ok so I'm not really car-literate... What do I try cranking? And what am I looking for if I cant move that thing?

Response From zmame

if you can't crank it your engine is seized and required tear down to figure out what is damage has been done or replacement.. the crank should be the bottom center pully this is the pully that drives all you accessories.

Response From JennaFuzz66 Top Rated Answer

if you can't crank it your engine is seized and required tear down to figure out what is damage has been done or replacement.. the crank should be the bottom center pully this is the pully that drives all you accessories.

So, the alternator wouldnt cause any of these issues right? Someone was trying to convince me that its probably just electrical, battery or alternator related but I dont see how the alt going out would make my wheels freeze up...

Ok, so the pully that drives all my accessories as in the belts? Like the alternator belt, or the water pump belt? Or am I on the wrong track?

Response From JennaFuzz66

Well thanks to everyone for the advice... I think that I'm going to just sell the car. I can't afford to fix it anymore, I was hoping online would give ideas but I'm not mechanically inclined enough to do it myself. Thanks again for all the help and ideas, I will pass them onto the next owner.

Response From JennaFuzz66

Hmmm no one has any advice at all? No ideas on where to look? I would be taking it to a mechanic but I don't wanna spend the money to have him say "I dont know" again. :/

Response From zmame

I would jack front and support with jacks and block your wheel's and see if you can turn the wheel by hand. If you can't then the breaks are stuck on. I would take the wheel's off and open the bleeder screw see if fluid squirts out.. If it does it means there was pressure in the line and is not a caliper issue.

Pressure in the line can be caused by damaged flex hose.
Faulty master cylinder
possible faulty abs module(unsure how GEO is set up)
Kinked or blockage in a line.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Jenna:

I may be older than dirt but this is NOT the trade I knew. Retired. Tricky problems you just worked at till fixed. Charging for a no fix isn't in my vocabulary.

Guess I'm old or IDK??

Tom

Response From JennaFuzz66

Jenna:

I may be older than dirt but this is NOT the trade I knew. Retired. Tricky problems you just worked at till fixed. Charging for a no fix isn't in my vocabulary.

Guess I'm old or IDK??

Tom

I have no idea what you're trying to say, sorry. D:

If you're talking about my mechanic charging to say "I dont know" yea, Im not to thrilled that I have spent literally hundreds of dollars for "I dont know"'s, society is lazy now, and they dont really help. People are just out for money, thats it. Unfortunately, I'm a poverty line college student, so I have no more money to give to those who cant complete a service.

Edit:: Also, Tom, I see that you're a retired mechanic. Do you have any ideas, other than stuck brakes, to check? Actually at this point its more like do you have any ideas I could tell the next owner of the car to check? I'm listing it for sale because I cannot afford to pay a mechanic to check it, especially since mechanics around here usually dont completely fix the issue. (:

Response From JennaFuzz66

I would jack front and support with jacks and block your wheel's and see if you can turn the wheel by hand. If you can't then the breaks are stuck on. I would take the wheel's off and open the bleeder screw see if fluid squirts out.. If it does it means there was pressure in the line and is not a caliper issue.

Pressure in the line can be caused by damaged flex hose.
Faulty master cylinder
possible faulty abs module(unsure how GEO is set up)
Kinked or blockage in a line.

But, after I released the accelerator when it froze up, the wheels unfroze and I turned around and drove it home, since I was only about 3 miles from home or so... That's when I realized I cant go faster than 30 MPH about the brake and alt. light keep coming on. Also, I wasnt hitting the brakes when it happened, i was accelerating up a hill...

Would stuck brakes still behave this way? I've never even heard of brakes sticking.

Edit: Oh, and Geo Storms do not have Anitlocking braking systems. Just so you know.

Response From zmame

breaks can stick quite common actually.. good way to tell if it is sticking is after driving at a certain distance is to stop the car get out and put your hand near the wheel (don't touch may burn you) and see if you can feel excess heat coming from any of the 4 wheels.

Response From JennaFuzz66

breaks can stick quite common actually.. good way to tell if it is sticking is after driving at a certain distance is to stop the car get out and put your hand near the wheel (don't touch may burn you) and see if you can feel excess heat coming from any of the 4 wheels.

If the brakes are sticking is it "safe" to drive it long enough to do this test? I just dont want to risk popping the new tires I have on the car, if you know what I mean... Also, would I feel around the rubber, or the rim/brake area?

Edit: Oh, and is about 3-5 miles a good enough distance? Cause I'm planning to move the car to my house tonight (its parked at a friends property)

Response From zmame

if you feel it's to dangerous to dive then don't I can't be the judge of that and don't want the responsibility.. If they are sticking you will feel it radiate from the rim.. did you notice a odd smell or burning smell?

Response From JennaFuzz66

if you feel it's to dangerous to dive then don't I can't be the judge of that and don't want the responsibility.. If they are sticking you will feel it radiate from the rim.. did you notice a odd smell or burning smell?

An odd smell when I popped the hood to check all the oil and stuff. Kind of like a brake smell I remember telling my boyfriend I smelled brakes and antifreeze or some sort of chemical like that. But I couldnt put my finger on what exactly it is.

So you mention that other things cause the brakes to lock up... If it does turn out to be this, then how do I check those other things to see if that's what caused it?

Response From zmame

i'm pretty sure your breaks are sticking on i would do the procedure i first wrote to make sure. if you feel comfortable take it for a drive and check for heat coming from wheels if not do the first method.

Response From JennaFuzz66

i'm pretty sure your breaks are sticking on i would do the procedure i first wrote to make sure. if you feel comfortable take it for a drive and check for heat coming from wheels if not do the first method.

I feel comfortable doing the drive, its only 4 miles to my house from where it is or so.

But, you mentioned other things that are causing the sticking, such as bent or plugged lines, etc... How would I check for those if the brakes turn up to be indeed sticking? Or, if they're sticking what are the steps to fix it?

Response From zmame

Make sure your break fluid level is proper before attempting..

you have to jack up the car spin both wheels by hand determine which one (or both) wheels are sticking. Do this by placing the transmission neutral and spinning the wheel by hand if you can't spin the wheel then the break is likely stuck on... remove the wheel of the stuck break.. loosen the bleeder screw located on top of the caliper if pressurized fluid comes out (squirt then stops) comes out then its not a caliper issue. if no fluid squits out remove the the bleeder screw all the way to make sure its not blocked. if still does not squirt or just dribbles out replace caliper and bleed..


If pressurized after bleeding excess pressure place wheel back and try to spin by hand again. If you still can't move it caliper is bad and you may have following issues too. If you can move it the caliper is fine and continue on..

check flex hoses some times they are held in with metal clips and can rust and actually pinch off or fracture the flex line over time. Also check for cracks, splits or bulges as this is a sign of wear and should be replaced.

Have somone step on the break (slowly) to make sure fluid is flowing to the caliper fine. If its flowing fine replace flex hose on the affected side as it's cheapest fix if it still acts up you might be into a mater cylinder

Radiator fan won't turn on

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From JezaMetroGal on Radiator fan won't turn on

I'm new here and this is my first forum post ever so please excuse my screw ups. I have a 96 Geo Metro 1.3 automatic with over 100,000 miles. My radiator fan won't turn on and the cars temp gauge hits the red. If I slow down and turn on heater full blast it lowers the gauge. However driving at 45 MPH just don't cut it. If I wire the fan direct to the battery it turns on. So I know the fan motor works. There is also a second fan (engine cooling fan) on the opposite side blowing from opposite direction, it doesn't come on either. Can anyone please help me with this problem? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanx

Response From Discretesignals

I'm confused. You stated that when you slow down with the heater turned on the temp comes down? Is it overheating while your cruising at 45 mph or higher? If so, the fans don't even run at that vehicle speed. There is enough ram air going that fast.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

? Are you sure of your observations said in top post? Fans can run "opposite" directions!?
Any even slight damage fixed or not to front of this car? Rare but the air dam under front bumper at speed actually causes more air to flow thru grille but if missing could make airflow difficult or neutral.


BTW - if heater is still blowing heat when a temp gauge is pegged to hot it might not be really overheating as it would be boiling at some point and vapor doesn't cool the engine nor blow hot air for the heater.


Other on long list: Bugs/debris caught up in radiator or unseen between parts blocking air flow, water pump not up to par, radiator itself not clear inside - plugged, too much (meaning usually pure antifreeze in use not a mix) AND a very hot day. Fans totally not turning intended direction?


T

Response From Hammer Time

First test the two fuses in the diagram. They are in different fuse boxes. If they are good, check the relay.

One of the fans is a cooling fan and the other is an AC condenser fan which would be controlled by the AC. You can tell by the wire colors which one is which.

The cooling fan will have the blue/red and the black wires.


92 Geo Prizm vibrates rough at 1200-1800 Rpms

Showing 3 out of 9 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From Big-T on 92 Geo Prizm vibrates rough at 1200-1800 Rpms

Hello all my name is Tony...I am good with my hands but def not a motor head...I can do lots of things on my own when i find the problem that needs to be fixed.I am here today cause i can not even find the problem to fix it, And would like a large range of knowledge to try and steer me in the right direction,Ok i am tring to fix my girl friends car...It's a 1992 Geo Prizm Lsi with 195,000 miles and a 4 cyl 16 valve Fe motor in it(After research its same as a Toyota Corolla)..I am not the driver of this car so i can only go off what she has told me...I know the car ran ok for it's year and miles...But out of no where she has this bad engine vibration that is very bad...I went to the easy things first which were indeed busted to pcs(Engine mounts and trans mounts)..Did not fix the problem..This problem does not require the car to be moving to do this so i scratched off tires/Drive line(Axles)..This accures at somewhere in the range of 1200-1800 rpms,At idle it's fine...and at a higher rpm it's fine....I have pull trans and dropped oil pan and i still do not see nothing that would cause this..I was told a bent piston rod could do this(From A LOCAL SHOP)..But i put all cyl at top dead center and stuck gauge through spark plug hole and not even a slight diffrence(I figured that was enough to take that off the list)..I was wondering if a bad torq conveter could cause this prob..I also notice when i dropped trans it was marked with yellow marker 97 corolla as well as the torq converter(So i know it's either used or a junk yard item)...But it was the one in there since she owed it....Plus i was also told to remove all belts and try to wiggle all pully's up down and back and forth(Still nothing)..I was told the main pulley is a balancer norm made with rubber in it which i could see,But no noteable damage....If anyone has heard of this or could give me simple things to try i would love to soak in the info and give it a shot...Also while the car is running and in park could something inside trans cause this...?.....Thanks for your time and i will be checking back daily....She has my car and i want it back(Smile)...

Response From dmac0923

you seemed to have covered the basics pretty well.

my recommendations would have been

motor mounts
trans mount
axles
transmission input bearing

you may be onto something with the harmonic balancer. I have heard of harmonic balancers 'shifting" meaning the rubber and the metal are no longer one piece and is taking the motor rotating assembly out of balance ever so slightly

Response From Big-T

Well yes as i stated i am good with my hands and try alot before i ask questions.I am a suspension mech for cars and rigs just not a daily motor guy....Again i have trans out and oil Pan down as of today and am lost on whats the issue here ...Trans has leaks so i wanted to seal it anyhow so i figured i could look to see if the prob was there somewhere and while it's down and out i will do rear main seal...The problem here is many things can be done while i have it apart but i hate to do all this and find out that i can't solve the problem i am here asking about just to turn around and junk the car....Grrrrr

Response From Big-T

Ok...Does anyone know if this car that i posted about in first post have a balanced cam in it (16 valve Dohc Fe model Motor)

Response From DanD

I had a look through the service bulletins that I have and found nothing directly concerning engine or trans vibrations. There was one article on the torque converter’s clutch coming apart causing a shudder but I’m not sure if this would address your concerns?
If you don’t physically find anything, put the car back together and try starting the engine with the torque converter left undone, from the engine. If your vibration is gone, you’ll know what you’ll be doing again; it always comes apart easier the second time. LOL
Sorry I don’t mean to make fun of but that’s the joy of searching for something that doesn’t want to give up its secrets.
I don’t think this engine uses an internal balance shaft?
When you checked the harmonic balancer did you try running the engine with the belts off? I’ve had water pumps or AC clutches not make a sound but the bearings be all but destroyed?

Dan.

Response From Big-T Top Rated Answer

Well no worries about poking fun,I have torn stuff apart many times just to find the problem and your right second time is always easier..(Smiles)...So back to the topic,I spoke with a local trans guy that has been in bizz for many years here local and explained the issues.. And thats who said he was not sure of this motor But has heard of the balance cam chain or something to that matter would get wacked and cause a shake/Vibration...He also noted to me about unbolting torq converter as well as you noted start motor and see if i still had it(I didn't know i could do that duh!!) So i am going to reseal the whole trans and rear main seal and throw it in and see what i have....I also was told by the trans guy that the main pulley may not wobble, And by hand could not tell if the rubber was bad but it could spin inside itself to throw it out of balance,So...1st i would like to thank you for looking that up for me cause i neither couldn't find anything about a balance cam for this car.....And thanks for your thought about the other pulleys,But if you was here you would know for a fact it was not no water pump pulley(lol)...This is a crazy vibration...But be sure i will check them all before i put belts back on,Also i checked the main pulley while belts were off(No tension)....I will do what i stated and keep yah posted on progress and or help if i need more...Thank's Tony...Any advice while i am getting to this i will soak in to my thoughts....

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Tony; If you haven't reinstalled the trans already, check the flex plate very carefully for cracks. Between the torque converter, flex plate, and harmonic balancer, sounds like you are on the right track. And, with your attitude, I'm pretty comfortable in saying that you'll succeed in finding the problem. Good luck.

Response From Big-T

Well i am on hold do to going to my girls this weekend,But i will be back at it after the weekend and need to get it out of my shop where i work...(Kinda taking up a bay from my boss(Not Good lol)...When you say flexplate do you me Flywheel..?...again not a motor head so words and terms my get me by surprise...Thank you all once again...Tony

Response From Big-T

Ok my online friends/Helpers...I had time to return to this project and here is my results....

If you rem i had removed trans to get a further look.....Well trans turned out ok.....Flywheel was ok.....so i resealed rear of motor and reseal the whole trans/and new filter...I put it together enough to start it with out torq converter connected........(No vibration)....Then i bolted torq verter back up....(Still no vibration)......So i installled all the belts and replace a cv boot ..Lowered the car and took for a drive and still ..(No vibration)....So i ask myself...What and where did the vibration go....And what caused it....Am i happy it's gone...Yes....Am i bothered i didn't do crap that should have fixed it, Of course.....I would have like to knowN what fixed this issue....Grrr....I didn't even get to change the main crank pulley ,Vibration was gone before i got that far......Hummmm i am puzzled... Tony