Shop Chrysler Water Pumps

Those are a PITA. Had one 2 weeks ago that the customer attempted to replace the water pump and snapped off three bolts. The puny 6mmx1.0 bolts that break are usually mechanically welded because the holes they screw into aren't blind. The end of the bolts are exposed to the weather and due to dissimilar metal contact they weld themselves to the aluminium.

You can probably get a right angle drill in there, but forget about using an easy out. The best thing to do is drill out the broken bolt(s) making the hole one size bigger and re-tapping it for a larger bolt. I suggest using studs and nuts instead of bolts as a replacement fastener. If you can get the cover off and on a drill press, your holes will be a lot prettier and you won't have to worry about a hand held drill walking off the broken bolt.

On the vehicle we repaired, we ended up removing the timing cover to drill out the broken bolts.

Those can be accessed with a drill. A 90 degree drill will get in there or you can take a motor mount loose and raise or lower the engine to make it more accessable for a regular drill.

If the bolt were just plain rusted & not crossthreaded, it would be best to soak them with PB penetrating oil for a while. While not easy to find, a lefthanded drill bit works real good on broken rusty bolts since it is spinning in the opposite direction, I have had ones just pull the bolt out I was drill after a good soaking. You want make sure you center punch the bolt so the bit is drilling the exact center of the bolt because if the bit doesn't get it out & an ez out doesn't work either then you last option is to drill the bolt out & insert a heli-coil.

Good luck......one thing to consider, if you don't have the proper tools to do this, it would be best to tow it to a place that does because once you start drilling & tapping, if you aren't exact, you might just wind up costing yourself double, triple or more if you do have to take it to a shop.
Removing broken bolts is bad enough but when someone has gone in and messed it up, it makes it way harder and the labor price usually reflects that....

1st you should be using a mix of antifreeze and water not just water. You say you hear it and doesn't show loss of level so doesn't add up to me quite yet on that. Now with new thermostat and radiator is apparently overheating suggests it isn't really full of coolant. It must be full at the radiator first then when known full at reservoir which can be tough to do and may not have a fill cap at radiator so require extra efforts up to vacuum fill sometimes.


Fans must come on if really hot enough. If this uses a hose to recovery tank and pressure cap is on that tank with a leak in that hose it will not draw in coolant and might bubble hot to that tank but not draw back coolant when it cools as it should.


Must know fans work, coolant full for real and a pressure test that holds (engine off) for a reasonable amount of time. If not find out where it's leaking. If it holds and truly filled with fans then move on to know if it's really flowing thru upper hose to radiator and returning cooler coolant and the real temp with an IR thermometer knowing where what temps should be where and if they are.


At some point start checks for combustion gasses getting into cooling system and things that suggest a head gasket problem.


Avoid real overheating in any case as no vehicle is exempt from serious problem from that alone,


T

Wow - Over a year later and you now say it's fixed and hope long ago.
I'll close thread as solved to keep spammers out. YOU can ask any moderator to re-open it upon request,


T

Better late than never. Thanks for following up on this.

Oh and yes the fan does come on

You are probably really overheating so whatever the original cause head gasket(s) easily fail and expect it. They do NOT have to put coolant in oil or blow coolant out exhaust to be bad. Any which way they seal could leak.


Hey - mix of antifreeze you wouldn't know now except for checking what freeze protection it's at now and look at locked chart up top of this section and you'll then know what it is.


99.9 % or so call for a 50/50 mix which gets you -34F protection. Some cases (not likely) will call for weaker mix or stronger if subject to extraordinarily cold temps for Winter. Way too strong in very hot climates is not good. Antifreeze itself/alone does not transfer heat well which is why it is mixed,


T

We'll guess I'll take it to shop and get a pressure test. What exactly do I need to ask for?

What you would ask for is a correct diagnosis for overheating. Don't tell the shop hop to do their job.

Thank you I am so scared its a head gasket but I have seen no evidence of any thing in the oil when I check it. When I release pressure valve on radiator cap the water goes to the overflow container and the temp gauge goes down. Of course when it cools the water goes back into radiator but I will check to see if the water antifreeze ratio is correct. Once again thank you.

Don't have the car in front of me but most water pumps fail by leaking and is unrelated to timing, plugs etc

The water pump is driven by the timing belt so common sense would be to change it at the same time. If the water pump fails at a later date, not only will you have to do the job all over but serious engine damage could occur if it causes the timing belt to come off.

I thought that's how that engine is set up. New water pump would be suggested and I would in this engine as Hammer said you are back to square ONE if it failed or worse!

T

Thanks, fellows. Replaced the timing belt and the water pump while they were in there. Seems like they thought the plugs should be replaced solely on age of car and mileage and the fact they were the original plugs. Anyway, it seems to be running fine. LLoyd

Sounds like responsible work Lloyd. Enjoy not worrying about it for a while.

I'll close thread as fixed/done, keeps spammers out and you may ask any moderator to reopen it at your request,

T

Random misfires w cam and crank sensors out of sync would likely be a neglected or plain failed timing belt which I believe also runs the water pump in this engine so it would be suggested. If jumped a tooth you are on borrowed time and have been!

Many engines either can't (if all timing info is off) go over a certain RPM or default to a limp mode limiting RPMs.

FYI - water pumps can fail in a few different ways not just leak. It wouldn't be advised not to change coolant and plugs, probably oil and some other things possible. Pricing is local by your exact shop and area so can't say that's out of line at all. For some it will save your engine if not done!

I wouldn't wait with this and running it anymore is AYOR,

T

Get the code(s) read first and post the #s and let's go from there,

T