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GMB
2004 Chevrolet Express 1500 Engine Water Pump 8 Cyl 5.3L GMB

P311-0338375    130-7340  New

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Qty:
$84.59
GMB Engine Water Pump
  • 2.05" Diameter Thermostat Opening May Require New Thermostat
Brand: GMB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Chevrolet Express 1500 V 8 Cyl 5.3L 325 5328
Gates
2004 Chevrolet Trailblazer Engine Water Pump Gates - with Gasket

P311-575894E    W0133-1910199  New

Qty:
$99.84
  • Standard
  • Includes Gasket
  • with Gasket
Brand: Gates
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Chevrolet Trailblazer
ACDelco
2016 Chevrolet Silverado 3500 HD Engine Water Pump 8 Cyl 6.0L ACDelco

P311-2F2B9EE    W0133-2757204  New

Qty:
$389.26
ACDelco Engine Water Pump
  • Professional
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2016 - Chevrolet Silverado 3500 HD V 8 Cyl 6.0L 364 5967
ACDelco
2016 Chevrolet Silverado 3500 HD Engine Water Pump 8 Cyl 6.0L ACDelco - W/ Thermo. Housing

P311-2F2B9EE    W0133-2757204  New

Qty:
$389.26
ACDelco Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
  • W/ Thermo. Housing
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2016 - Chevrolet Silverado 3500 HD V 8 Cyl 6.0L 364 5967
ACDelco
2018 Chevrolet Silverado 3500 HD Engine Water Pump 8 Cyl 6.0L ACDelco - W/ Thermo. Housing

P311-2F2B9EE    W0133-2757204  New

Qty:
$389.26
ACDelco Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
  • Incl.Gasket, Pulley, Thermostat & Housing
  • W/ Thermo. Housing
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2018 - Chevrolet Silverado 3500 HD V 8 Cyl 6.0L 364 5967
ACDelco
2018 Chevrolet Silverado 3500 HD Engine Water Pump 8 Cyl 6.0L ACDelco

P311-2F2B9EE    W0133-2757204  New

Qty:
$389.26
ACDelco Engine Water Pump
  • Professional
  • Incl.Gasket, Pulley, Thermostat & Housing
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2018 - Chevrolet Silverado 3500 HD V 8 Cyl 6.0L 364 5967
ACDelco
2007 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 HD Classic Engine Water Pump ACDelco

P311-05CF4B3    W0133-3522803  New

Qty:
$309.17
ACDelco Engine Water Pump
  • Professional
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Chevrolet Silverado 1500 HD Classic
ACDelco
2007 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 HD Classic Engine Water Pump ACDelco - w/o Therm & Housing

P311-05CF4B3    W0133-3522803  New

Qty:
$309.17
ACDelco Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
  • w/o Therm & Housing
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Chevrolet Silverado 1500 HD Classic
GMB
2002 Chevrolet Impala Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 3.8L GMB

P311-20C6A45    W0133-1908930  New

Qty:
$41.45
Brand: GMB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2002 - Chevrolet Impala V 6 Cyl 3.8L 231 3800
AISIN
2018 Chevrolet Sonic Engine Water Pump 4 Cyl 1.8L AISIN

P311-21CEC57    W0133-2076606  New

Qty:
$90.74
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2018 - Chevrolet Sonic L 4 Cyl 1.8L 110 1796
Geba
2018 Chevrolet Sonic Engine Water Pump 4 Cyl 1.8L Geba

P311-4B679DF    W0133-2076606  New

Qty:
$95.97
Geba Engine Water Pump
Brand: Geba
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2018 - Chevrolet Sonic L 4 Cyl 1.8L 110 1796
AISIN
2016 Chevrolet Cruze Limited Engine Water Pump 4 Cyl 1.4L AISIN

P311-0490C5E    W0133-2043907  New

Qty:
$87.39
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • Pump Only
  • Includes: Gasket, Housing, Pulley, and Thermostat
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2016 - Chevrolet Cruze Limited L 4 Cyl 1.4L 83 1364
AISIN
2018 Chevrolet Trax Engine Water Pump AISIN

P311-0490C5E    W0133-2043907  New

Qty:
$87.39
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • Incl.Gasket, Housing, Pulley, Thermostat, Thermostat Gasket and Thermostat Housing
  • Includes: Gasket, Housing, Pulley, and Thermostat
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2018 - Chevrolet Trax
Gates
2003 Chevrolet Malibu Engine Water Pump Gates

P311-3113AD5    W0133-1692098  New

Qty:
$43.46
  • Standard
Brand: Gates
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Chevrolet Malibu
Metrix
2006 Chevrolet Malibu Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 3.9L Metrix

P311-238587A    W0133-1886334  New

Qty:
$38.53
Metrix Engine Water Pump
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Chevrolet Malibu V 6 Cyl 3.9L 237 3880
GMB
2006 Chevrolet Malibu Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 3.9L GMB

P311-134D784    W0133-1886334  New

Qty:
$81.12
Brand: GMB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Chevrolet Malibu V 6 Cyl 3.9L 237 3880
GMB
2007 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Classic Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 4.3L GMB

P311-3B9B67B    W0133-1886335  New

Qty:
$55.50
Brand: GMB
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Classic V 6 Cyl 4.3L 262 -
ACDelco
2007 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Classic Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 4.3L ACDelco

P311-32D57C1    W0133-1886335  New

Qty:
$363.48
ACDelco Engine Water Pump
  • Professional
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Classic V 6 Cyl 4.3L 262 -
ACDelco
2007 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Classic Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 4.3L ACDelco

P311-32D57C1    W0133-1886335  New

Qty:
$363.48
ACDelco Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Classic V 6 Cyl 4.3L 262 -

Latest Chevrolet Repair and Water Pump Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2002 Chevy Venture keeps overheating

Showing 5 out of 8 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From Megan19 on 2002 Chevy Venture keeps overheating

Year:2002
Vehicle:Chevrolet
Model:Venture
Engine Size:3.4
Mileage:137,935

2002 Chevy Venture keeps overheating

Last week we had to replace intake manifold gasket,water pump,thermosat,coolant tempature sensor,flush coolant system and still is overheating.

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

What was the original problem that lead to those repairs? Was it overheating like this before the repairs?

If not I would make sure you don't have an air pocket in the system. Also how long does it take before it starts overheating?

Response From Megan19

Before we got the repairs it was overheating and that is why we took and got a diagnositc job and it said to repair all of those problems. It takes 10-15 mins to overheat. now since we have repaired all of the work it still is overheating and also when it overheats the heat stops working it throws cold air.

Response From Sidom

Just going off what you've posted the 1st thing I would want to eliminate is exhaust gases getting into the cooling system. The system needs to be block checked either by chemical testing or with an exhaust gas analyzer. If there is a head gasket issue going on, it could be causing both of the problems you are experiencing.......

Response From Megan19

is there a posible chance it could be the heat core or radiator??

Response From Sidom

Anything is possible. Just some things are less likely than other things. With heater cores, when they get plugged, you get no heat, all the time. They don't work sometimes & not others times. The same with radiators, it's possible that it has got restricted so badly it's overheating within 10 to 15 minutes of start up, but then again this is usually a slow progression failure, meaning you would've noticed problems for a while, starting at high higher speeds and/or heavier loads & progressively gotten to this point......

The 1st thing I had mention was an air pocket and that would be the most likely problem, especially on this type of system, very easy to get an air pocket in it, especially if an air lift tool wasn't used to fill it.... Once it's been confirmed there is no air in the cooling system, due to the nature of the problem, the next logical step would be to block test it.......

Response From Megan19

thank you for all your help

Response From Sidom

You're welcome

engine overheating

Showing 3 out of 4 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From jamesg1551 on engine overheating

1995 chevrolet lumina coupe 3 l..engine runs smooth, no smoke out tail pipe.. over heats..water in oil pan ..no oil in cooling system. engine has 99,000 miles on it. put a water pump on it at 92,000 miles. pump housing had some ware behind the pump impeller. Is it possible housing has cracked or hole in it behind impeller? help ..james

Response From 67eleanor

i have same car same model sam problem. its blow up my head and my wallet to find out where the problem. for leak on the driver side of the engine near to outlet water hose. check the fans. finally open the plastic tank on the radiator. maybe its lock. becarful from crack the plastic. good luck.

http://autoforums.carjunky.com/Automotive_Repair_C1/General_Discussions_F5/95_lumina_over_heat_fast_P139420/

Response From HT Top Rated Answer

You also want to look hard at the intake manifold gasket. That can also leak coolant into the oil and it is very common on that engine.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

? Water (presumably coolant) in oil pan should have mixed and made a creamy oil rather quickly. Overheating is probably low on coolant in the engine not just where you add. I'd be checking out head gasket problems on this. Don't allow it to overheat or it will just get worse,

T

overheating with heater on

Showing 2 out of 24 Posts | Show 22 Hidden Posts
Question From magicman201080 on overheating with heater on

I have a 2002 Chevrolet cavalier that all of a sudden started over heating with the heater going. heated up to over 200+ degrees last line before fed. shut heater off and temp went down. engine is a 2.2 has 155k miles please help. have had evap problem for some time and replaced all evap parts. now the heating problem starts

Response From Discretesignals

Doesn't really make sense for the vehicle to overheat when you turn the heater on and then cool off when the heater is switched off. Was the ac compressor running when it decided to start running hot? AC compressor will run on some models when you have the mode selected for defrost Does this overheat while your idling or cruising when you turn the heater on? How is the coolant condition and level. Might need to get hold of a scan tool, that you can watch the ECT value on, and see if it jives with the gauge.

Response From magicman201080

no sir the ac compressor wasn't running and the car heated up then shut heater off temp went back to normal range. was told could be heater core plugged. but I don't know fluid levels are at correct level and doesn't seem to change when checked heats up both idle and moving

Response From Tom Greenleaf

? This all began with replacing an A/C evaporator? Almost all are quite involved and most or many vehicles need or allow flow thru heater core and adjust or block temp with diverter/blend doors. Are or did you get heat when asked for or nothing?


The common denominator is the evaporator job then this so somehow something probably went wrong with that job. Both heather hoses should feel warm/hot in hand with any credible engine temp and if one is stone cold something is wrong. Yes a plugged core that is used (if so) as a bypass flow of coolant for engine will matter but all the time not making sense with just request for heat and showing hot.
OK - My question is do you get heat when asking for heat only on floor vent outlets? If not ever we check on why not,


T

Response From magicman201080

car was warm and melted ice on windshield the evap was the canister and surge soloed not the ac. car was running fine now today it overheated and when I shut off heater the temp went right back down to the normal temp around 195

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Let the confusion rule. When you mention an engine heating issue and recent "evap" I think normally techs would take that as A/C not evaporative emissions parts!


So let's start over: Still you say this began exactly when those parts were replaced? I'd just look and see if anything is obviously out of place, check coolant level now and you need to know that it's full in the radiator and engine air free despite this "evap" work shouldn't really have involved draining engine coolant but a wild maybe some wire got involved?


As DS said right away it's not consistent with use of heater and overheating, in fact if you were running too warm even on a hot day requesting heat should HELP cool engine not the other way - that leaves coolant level, plugged core if used as a by-pass for cooling system. I'd have to plain look.


Still - asked you if heater worked on floor vents not if it melted ice on windshield suggests you were using defroster/defog/or a section for both heat and mix with floor vents which does engage compressor if it is even close to warm enough under the hood it will engage compressor.


We need that OUT of the problem if there's a problem at all. Many of these cars do not hold a steady #/spot on the dash gauge and perhaps you are just now noticing?


Various ways when compressor is in a request mode fans come on in many needed or not for A/C and some know it's cold and don't and I'll never know which ones do what all off the top of my head.


Back to topic: If I had to guess you are low on coolant in radiator/engine which will cause bizarre behavior. If it wasn't touched then you need to know why if found low at all,


T

Response From magicman201080

had a service person look at the antifreeze and the level said both level and condition was fine. am going to try driving home later with out the heater on in any mode and see what happens will also stop and have a repairman look at it and see if they say what it is. have little to no money on fixed income and cant really afford this but ...........

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I asked for level in the radiator not easy to know if this doesn't have a radiator cap so that info is useless.


When it shows warm to near hot does fan for radiator come on under hood? That you can check. If cool weather some may not need to come on much or at all even sitting still,


T

Response From magicman201080

yes as it heats up the cooling fan kicks on and runs for awhile and then shuts off. was told that is normal operating for that. has no cap just plastic container on passenger side of engine compartment

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK - That type the tank you see thru is also where the pressure cap is where you would ad BUT if there's a problem or system was drained for any reason you can't just fill the system from that!


Vacuum filled if it was drained or other tricks.


OK - You see if even the hose from that tank to the radiator had a leak it might not draw coolant back from tank to radiator and engine as it normally does when cooling down so air would be drawn back but the tank looks like it's fine - lousy way for car makers to do it that way.


Doubt you have any fancy tools so try this. Cold start, feel upper radiator hose for NO pressure by squeezing it. It may even make a sound of sloshing and air? Now as engine warms up that hose shouldn't have much pressure very quickly but see if it does for another possible problem. Let it warm up enough so hose now has some heat (careful) in it and by then some pressure. If none of that there's a problem to fix first before finding out what else might be wrong if anything.


System idea on this: Coolant expands when warmed up and sends the extra to that tank which is also going to allow pressure by the cap's design. As it approaches the pounds of the rating of that cap it lets coolant in and you see the marks for full cold and hot on those tanks.


Now when it cools the cap again when coolant is shrinking is only going to let back liquid coolant not air so system if perfect and designed perfectly would self purge out air and draw back just coolant/liquid but either anything wrong or not purged of air when working on it, it may never get all or enough air out and there's your reason for erratic temp gauge and heater use.


It stinks but you really may not know if system is full or if touched when the "evap" stuff was worked on and it does take time and some effort for anyone to fill the cooling system up properly - some may get close and think it will self purge out what's left and it never does.


Need to know if you have to take it somewhere and just have it vacuum filled. If so and problem is all gone that was it. Air/vapor will mess up sensors accuracy, real hot spots and perhaps sudden cold readings and so on. Gotta know it's full...........
T

Response From Hammer Time

Why are we messing around with anything? If the fan is cycling, the temperate is under control. You're just trying to fix something that isn't broken.

Response From magicman201080

hammertime you haveno idea how to fix anything and you are rude and think you know it all you don't need to respond to me anymore ill deal with the professionals that are on here

Response From Hammer Time


magicman201080 You keep running your mouth and you will be looking for another forum.

Maybe you think this is my first rodeo and I have no idea what I'm talking about. You would be very wrong about that. YHour car is operating exactly as it was designed to.

Response From Hammer Time

Maybe you need proof.


Cooling System Description and Operation

Cooling Fan Control

The engine cooling fan system consists of one cooling fan and one relay. The relay is powered by the battery positive voltage circuit and controlled by a switched ground from the powertrain control module (PCM).

During operation, the PCM supplies the ground path for the cooling fan relay through the cooling fan relay control circuit. This energizes the cooling fan relay coil, closes the relay contacts, and supplies battery positive voltage from the cooling fan fuse through the cooling fan motor supply voltage circuit to the cooling fan. The cooling fan motor is grounded through its own ground circuit.

The PCM commands the fan on under the following conditions:

  • Engine coolant temperature exceeds approximately 106°C (223°F).
  • A/C refrigerant pressure exceeds 1310 kPa (190 psi).
  • A/C is requested and vehicle speed is below 100 km/h (62 mph) with A/C pressure above 1413 kPa (205 psi).
  • Vehicle speed is less than 8 km/h (5 mph) for more than 750 seconds. The fan will turn off when vehicle speed is greater than 8 km/h (5 mph) for more than 20 seconds.

  • Response From magicman201080

    was told by a repairman that it is the water pump and that it is not pumping water. the bottom hose is cold and the top hose is hot with no water circulating thank you to the professionals on this site you were very helpful as for others well.............................. enough said about them

    Response From Hammer Time

    If I were you I'd be looking for a different repairman because he is wrong but you'll never come back here and admit he was wrong and you wasted your money.

    Response From Discretesignals

    I agree with HT. Something doesn't add up. If the water pump was bad, the engine would overheat fairly quickly. Also as HT stated the cooling fan would be running high speed and would never shut down. A pump that isn't pumping that great may also cause you to have poor heater performance.

    Which engine is this? The ECOtech or OHV LN4? Take a pic of the faulty pump when your mechanic gets it out. Post it up in here. Curious to see what it looks like.

    Response From Hammer Time

    I don't even get what he is chasing here. It appears to be just the fact that the temp gauge goes over 200. That isn't going to change no matter how many pumps he changes.

    I bet I don't get an apology when he finally realizes I'm right either.

    Response From nickwarner

    As an ASE certified master tech, HT actually does know how to fix something. You have already stated you do not.

    He has tried to explain to you that you do not have anything physically broken on your car that will damage your engine and cause you to need to spend the money you have stated you do not have to spend.

    Your cooling fan is set to come on at a certain temp to draw the engine temp down, and once it has done that to cycle back off to prevent the engine from running cold. There is a sweet spot it needs to run at tempwise. If your car was overheating, the fan would be staying on as the ECM would realize it had not yet succeeded in dropping your engine temp enough. The fan coming off proves it has done this.

    Your heater core isn't plugged if you are feeling good heat coming out of your vents. A plugged core gives off little to no heat. It also cannot make your engine overheat. It is essentially a mini radiator placed there for your comfort, not for engine cooling.

    Your gauge and your computer use two different sensors to read coolant temp. It is possible you have a bad one for the gauge or some other issue giving you these readings, and remember as HT pointed out this car was designed to run 225 degrees at idle.

    But I really think getting lippy with a moderator is a bad idea whatever forum you use, especially if you had actually taken the time to read the posts and realize that all of this has already been explained to you and you seem to either just not understand it or just seem to want to believe no matter what that something is wrong with your car.

    Response From Hammer Time

    Shutting off the heater has nothing to do with your overheating. I'm suspecting you still have air pockets in the system that need to be burped out.

    Don't forget, this engine is designed to run at over 225 at idle so that shouldn't be an issue.

    Response From magicman201080

    how would I have gotten air into the system? nothing had been repaired that had to do with the cooling system

    Response From Hammer Time

    If the fan is coming on and then shutting off, the car IS NOT overheating.

    Response From magicman201080 Top Rated Answer

    was just told that it sounds like a water pump gone bad. don't see any leaks coming from it and antifreeze levels are fine

    Response From magicman201080

    im sorry I sound stupid but when it comes to cars I am. im not a mechanic and have to ask the professionals for help. I try everything I am told to try and still have no clue. if I am looked at as a problem please let me know I will try another site. thanks for all the help. I really do appreciate it.

    2003 Chevrolet Venture Heating Problem

    Showing 2 out of 11 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
    Question From lawden on 2003 Chevrolet Venture Heating Problem

    I am currently experiencing a heating problem with my 2003 Chevrolet Venture. When the van is idiling, the heat stops blowing and slowly gets cold. When I start traveling again, the heat begins working again. Coolant levels are ok and all hoses appear to be sealed and in working order. I was told that a valve could be responsible for not keeping the heat in when the car is idiling and then closes when the car begins traveling creating the necessary vaccum pressure to push the heat into the passenger compartment of the vehicle. Any ideas what else to look for and to bring the heat back into our car in this most necessary time of the year?

    Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

    It's still blowing air right? If coolant flow thru core is weak this could happen. I'd feel the heater hoses and see if there is a sudden drop off in temp along their route. Vacuum may control air direction and a heater control valve in some cars (not sure for this one) but vacuum is higher at idle then going along so that's not the likely problem so far.

    Sometimes the water pump impeller itself isn't up to snuff and just needs more RPMs to push coolant around. Personally that problem has never happened with car for me but it has been reported here and elswhere that it in fact can be the source of a problem like that,

    T

    Response From lawden

    Yes, air is still flowing, it is just cold when idling. A visual inspection of the hoses found that they appeared to be o.k., but I must admit that I do not know which hoses are the heater hoses. Any suggestions on where I can find a schematic to determine their placement within the engine compartment? What are my options if coolant flow thru the core is weak? Flush the heater core?

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    Flushing system would be a good thing anyway. Heater hoses are dang near universal in that input line is 5/8 hose and output 3/4 hose. They should go towards firewall on passenger's side. Usually the input line starts near the water pump and may go thru a heater control valve with either or both electrical controls and a diaphragm to control water flow for selected temps.

    The input line would be engine temp (watch that!) and would stay about the same temp to the control valve if used and on to firewall. You might have to wait a bit but if it get cold along the route then something is wrong there. The output hose is less temp if heater is blowing the hot air but could be the same if it can't exchange the heat.

    Weak coolant flow for any reason - low coolant, plugged, would result in less heat. Since driving along seems to make it behave then the flow is in question - we know that.

    Sometimes things as simple as the pressure cap isn't holding pressure can alter the volume of warm/hot coolant to core. Any air in the system just messes up all diagnosing so you always need to know that's not a factor.

    I'm no thinking of a wild variety of problems because you said it behaves when driving along,

    T

    Response From lawden

    Ok...The heater core has been flushed with no problems noted. The hoses have been checked signaling proper air flow across the heater core. I was told that a possible check valve might be responsible for the problem. A repair manual has been consulted for the vehicle and no mention of a check valve is made, but the book is not very thorough. Does this vehicle have a check valve and could this be the source of the problem? Thanks for your ongoing help.

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    Just looked and couldn't find a heater control valve listed for this vehicle?? That would be in line to adjust water flow thru core and not all systems do it that way. I think this uses an electrical actuator for a temp blend door in distribution box plenum. I would think if that wasn't diverting desired air flow % thru heater core it would be warmer at low speeds so let's not make that conclusion quite yet.

    Feel the in and out hoses to the core when it's idling and blowing cold. Are then both hot or both cold? Then try lowest fan but highest heat request and rev up to about 1,500 RPM and see if hoses warm and air get warm in cabin.

    Let's see if we can narrow down the possibilities of what's up with this,

    T

    Response From lawden

    Tom,
    Recently the van has now began to leak antifreeze. I had a mechanic look at it and say that it is the intake gaskets that need replaced. I had these replaced in Nov. of 2006. Do they need replaced already? I called around for a service quote and was told anywhere from $500-$1300 with the dealerships winning the upward total (suprising I know). Does this sound right?

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    The intake manifold gasket are somewhat common and there was or is a settlement with GM about this - check on that for the cost of the first round. I've never heard of this twice! OE gasketing stunk and the OE dex-cool was blamed for problems with the whole cooling system not just gaskets.

    Quote of $1300 seems way too high! What was to be done with that? $500 around here would be more like it - perhaps less. Gasket are cheap - it's a labor thing. Aftermarket gaskets are frequently better than originals in my experience.

    Check on that GM/DexCool settlement. All I know is that the V8s were excluded for some reason?? Something with the Dex-cool anti-freeze was different and caused plugging up of things real early. I've not seen it in person but there are tons of pics of fairly new GM V6 and some others with gummy rust that would collect even at the radiator caps and showed dismantled engines that were a nightmare.

    You might find the pic at www.GoHTSN.com - I think they discuss the problems. Hope you keep records. This could be one of those problems?? Look for gunk at the radiator cap for now and something has to give with it leaking anyway. You do not have to use the OE Dex-cool anti-freeze again as far as I know. I won't again,

    T

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    http://www.gohtsn.com/article_1084.shtml


    That should hav info on the settlement,

    T

    Response From lawden

    Thanks, the first time I had it done, I thought I would be good for more than the year and a half it has been since it was replaced. Now looking at another repair bill, this is getting tiring. I think that this is probably the source of my heating problems as well. What will the settlement mean for me? I have only used Dex-Cool antifreeze because that is what the manual said to use. What do you recommend I use from now on? I will not use it anymore if I don't have to.

    Thanks for your help

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    Des-Cool is still an "EG" anti-freeze - 'Ethylene-Glycol' based product. It first claimed it didn't need to be changed for 5 years and it's a different color as you know. In general it's best to ge with what a manufacturer suggests for a vehicle and that's where GM got caught up as there apparently were enough problems with it's properties to cause real engine problems associated with not controlling corrosion.

    For some time engines have used more alloys and things that needed extra help and along comes this product and the vehicles clearly stated to use only that in them.

    I've seen the pics of engines torn down that showed incredible build up and damage that ruined parts that would ordinarily last the life of a vehicle.

    With anti-freeze the level of freeze protection does not expire with EG but the additives do. I have dealt with vehicles off new car warranties and read the product claims looking for "Meets or exceeds new car requirements" and have done well with that.

    I'm seeing brand name products with no color added with claims to be compatible with the other EG based products out there and will start using that with the next change out/flush when vehicles are past warranty.

    The gasket problems have happened to many of these vehicles but I was blaming that on the original gasket and still have not seen the damage that this original anti-freeze is blamed for causing. You are the first I've heard of with a second go around with the gasket - and with a 5 or so year old vehicle!! Something isn't right with that!

    T

    2000/Chevrolet/Cavalier/Cooling Leakage

    Showing 3 out of 15 Posts | Show 12 Hidden Posts
    Question From bambino12 on 2000/Chevrolet/Cavalier/Cooling Leakage

    Hello All!

    I own a Chevrolet Cavalier year 2000, 2.2L engine. It is about 70 000 miles

    There is a leakage in my cooling system.

    Drops do not come either from radiation nor from coolant deposit, nor from the water pump.

    I can see drops coming from a strange pipe.

    Im bad to explain things, I attach a picture

    There you can see the plastic pipe Im talking about. Also, you can see the coolant pond on the floor.

    About a month ago I took my car to service (tunning, refill all levels, oil change, engine wash and so on). I wonder if the guys at the service center forgot to connect something.

    Also, I don't use this car too much, I only use it on weekends. Last weekend I just noticed a bad smell (like something burning) and that´s the way I noticed there was a leakage, it was the smell of hot coolant fluid. I also replaced the deposit's cap, since the previous one just broke, I guess because of the heat.

    I noticed then the "low coolant level" warning light in my dahsboard.

    Thanks all!!!!

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    That little rubber elbow is to let water (condensate) from the air conditioner out in season when they make water in humid weather. The same case (inside car) hold the heater core which is a miniature radiator for heat. If that leaks it could leak engine coolant out that hose but usually there is a sign on the right interior floor or if you look up under there it might show some coolant - is slippery in fingers compared to plain water - wash hands please if you get it on them.

    That's what the thing looks like to me. I could be wrong and a heater core replacement should be verified by someone checking that out in person. Sometimes a hose can leak or have a pin hole that squirts like fishing line and make some place show coolant and the leak isn't there at all!

    I'd have the system pressure tested and point out where you have seen coolant but don't make the diagnosis for them or you just may get a heater core and not need it! Fill cooling system now with proper mix of anti-freeze and water - usually 50/50 - filled at radiator first and then the tank (recovery) that you can see the level in. If this doesn't have a radiator cap it will have to be filled by taking a hose up high off as it may not draw in coolant from just the recovery tank when low enough to make the light come on or if the leak won't allow the vacuum action to draw it back in,

    T

    Good luck,

    T

    Response From bambino12

    Hello Tom!!

    I think you are rightm although my car lacks Air Conditioner system. In any casse I think you and Jim are right.

    Will check the interior floor.

    By the way, this morning I filled the deposit(recovery tank). Im not sure if radiator has any cap.

    Well, I just filled deposit/recovery tank to the indicated level when cold.

    Then I turned on the engine for about 5 minutes.

    I looked at the floor, I noticed drops, continuos, not a line of fluid, just drops but very continuos, I would say about two drops per second.

    It took me some time to identifie such elbow pipe that seems to go nowhere (as Jim said)

    Will check the floor.

    Many thanks!!

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    That elbow pipe is just a drain for moisture if what I'm thinking and shouldn't have coolant either way as said. If all you have is a pressure radiator (even if not on the radiator itself) cap on the tank you added to then that cap is the pressure cap - if you have to unscrew it, it is the pressure cap and you could leave it loose to stop the dripping or slow it down. That tank is not capable of filling the whole cooling system once the level you can't see is down and you said a light was on which is probably sensing liquid in an end tank of the radiator itself which should always be full even though you can't see it.

    This needs to be looked at and almost certainly is needing a new heater core. They almost always drip into the car when they are the leak as you have noticed.

    If you leave the pressure cap loose that's just a temporary way to slow down the loss of coolant - not a fix. Don't lose the cap either.

    You would get some coolant into the radiator and hence engine by just filling that reservior and start engine for a while - like just enough to show the temp needle coming up and shut it off - just wait till it's cool and it probably has taken back some coolant from that tank. If so - do that a few times till "low coolant" light is out and your next trip should be short and to get this taken care of. Now is a good time to be thankful for not having A/C as that would make the job much more complicated and expensive.

    Hey - if you are going to drive this at all like this pay sharp attention to the gauges. Run heater on full heat request and low fan and if that goes cool on you the coolant is low or boiling - odd but an overheating car doesn't heat the interior thru the heater! This is probably just in need of the heater core right now and if you pay strict attention and do not overheat the car it would really help limit any further problems from overheating.

    Good luck with it,

    T

    Response From Lando10101

    Regardless of anything the system will have to be opened find a good mechanic some of them heater cores require major teardown . Good Luck

    Response From bambino12

    Tom and Lando,

    Thanks again for all of your valuable help.

    I keep note of your advice and it is amazing how much one can learn from this forum.

    Tomorrow I will take it to my mechanic that is less than a mile away from home.

    I pray this would not be an expensive repairment.

    I will report any progress.

    Thanks again!

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    Thanks for letting us know. This car with no air conditioning should be MUCH easier to do what is usually a difficult job. I doubt it would be cheap but having to deal with A/C components can be more than half the work of replacing a heater core. Either way it's not really a good do it youself job unless you have some strong know how with these sorts of things - it's involved with assorted dash parts to get the case apart and or out to replace it,

    T

    Response From bambino12

    Hello Tom, Jim, etc..

    This morning I just took the car to my usual mechanic.

    He did exactly the same diagnostic as you. It is the heat core. He explained me that this much like a small radiator that works to heat the air for defroster.

    He gave me the option of totally disconnect such damaged radiator, and do some sort of bypass to avoid it and have the cooling system working just fine, at the price of lacking defroster.

    I decided to go the expensive way. He is charging me about $300 bucks for all the job, including a new heat core.

    I sometimes doubt wether mechanics really install original brand new parts. I decided to trust him as he is giving me warranty.

    Do you think I got a good deal? Was I fooled?

    many thanks!!

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    That sounds great! You can bypass the heater in some circumstances as a temporary measure. It couldn't be something you could live without with any ice or defrosting need though - at least around here.

    That's a nice price. Keep in mind that many cars that have A/C that must be emptied and refilled to do this job and that part alone would cost what your whole job is quoted for. Some of the cores can be fixed but most people today would replace them.

    Good luck. All seems fair to me,

    T

    Response From Double J

    I'm with Tom there....

    Thats a super deal.....

    Thanks for posting back.....

    JIm

    Response From Double J

    Is that just a small elbow type hose,that comes out the firewall and goes nowhere..
    If so..thats the evaporator case drain...
    The heater core is probably leaking.
    Do you notice any coolant inside on the passenger floorboard under the carpet?
    Any unusual steam coming up thru the defrost duct..film on the windshield?
    Thats what the pic's look like....

    Response From bambino12

    Hello Jim!

    Yeah!!

    I think you are right.

    My car doesn't have Air Conditioner, but it certainly has defrost/ventilation fan.

    And the smell certainly comes from the defrost/ventilation ducts.

    I will check about coolant inside the passenger floorboard.

    Also, will turn on the defrost to see if some steam is forming on the windshield.

    As I use my car little (only on weekends and for very short trips) I have not had time to look at details, but will do some testing.

    So.... is the heater core some kind of device that heats the air for defrost purposes?

    Do you think it would imply an expensive repair? Just don't want me to be fooled by my mechanic.

    Many thanks!!!!!!!

    I will report my findings! This forum is great!

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    Same heater core for heat or defrost. Not sure if the drain hose is still used for car without A/C or not but it shouldn't be leaking coolant there either way,

    T

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    Hey Jim! Same thought except you were more concise!

    T

    Response From Double J Top Rated Answer

    Great minds think alike...

    I'm a man of few words...
    Wished I could explain fully like you do.
    You "Paint" the better picture for sure