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NPW
1995 Acura TL Engine Water Pump NPW

P311-2C3AA28    W0133-1603949  New

Qty:
$69.70
NPW Engine Water Pump
Brand: NPW
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Acura TL
GMB
1996 Acura RL Engine Water Pump GMB

P311-19D2B04    W0133-1605666  New

Qty:
$104.44
GMB Engine Water Pump
  • Also required, but not included with the water pump, are gasket #19313-P5G-000 (between the top of the water pump housing and the bottom of the thermostat housing) and o-ring #91312-PY3-000 (at the back of the thermostat housing). Order 1 of gasket 19313-P5G-000 and 3 of o-ring 91312-PY3-000 separately.
Brand: GMB
Free Ground Shipping on this item
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Vehicle
1996 - Acura RL
GMB
1991 Acura Legend Engine Water Pump GMB

P311-0E2FA53    W0133-1605145  New

Qty:
$187.43
GMB Engine Water Pump
  • Gasket #19313-PY3-000 (between the top of the water pump housing and the bottom of the thermostat housing) and o-ring #91312-PY3-000 (at the back of the thermostat housing) are also needed but are serviced separately. Order 1 of gasket 19313-PY3-000 and 3 of o-ring 91312-PY3-000 when installing this water pump.
Brand: GMB
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Vehicle
1991 - Acura Legend
GMB
1994 Acura Legend Engine Water Pump GMB

P311-0E2FA53    W0133-1605145  New

Qty:
$187.43
GMB Engine Water Pump
  • For models with 2 hose outlets on housing.
  • Gasket #19313-PY3-000 (between the top of the water pump housing and the bottom of the thermostat housing) and o-ring #91312-PY3-000 (at the back of the thermostat housing) are also needed but are serviced separately. Order 1 of gasket 19313-PY3-000 and 3 of o-ring 91312-PY3-000 when installing this water pump.
Brand: GMB
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Vehicle Submodel
1994 - Acura Legend GS
GMB
1996 Acura TL Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 3.2L GMB

P311-387366B    W0133-1608603  New

Qty:
$179.22
GMB Engine Water Pump
  • Gasket #19313-P5G-000 (between the top of the water pump housing and the bottom of the thermostat housing) and o-ring #91312-PY3-000 (at the back of the thermostat housing) are also needed but are serviced separately. Order 1 of gasket 19313-P5G-000 and 3 of o-ring 91312-PY3-000 when installing this water pump.
Brand: GMB
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Vehicle Block CC CID
1996 - Acura TL V 3206 -
Metrix
1995 Acura Integra Engine Water Pump Metrix

P311-29700AC    W0133-1610984  New

Qty:
$39.62
Metrix Engine Water Pump
Brand: Metrix
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation
1995 - Acura Integra B18C1
GMB
2007 Acura RDX Engine Water Pump GMB

P311-1C6DDC4    W0133-1799563  New

Qty:
$64.92
GMB Engine Water Pump
Brand: GMB
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
2007 - Acura RDX
NPW
1986 Acura Integra Engine Water Pump NPW

P311-51EC264    W0133-1623197  New

Qty:
$60.90
NPW Engine Water Pump
  • with Gasket
Brand: NPW
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1986 - Acura Integra
NPW
1987 Acura Integra Engine Water Pump NPW

P311-51EC264    W0133-1623197  New

Qty:
$60.90
NPW Engine Water Pump
Brand: NPW
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
1987 - Acura Integra
Metrix
1997 Acura CL Engine Water Pump 4 Cyl 2.2L Metrix

P311-5BFD8FD    W0133-1612826  New

Qty:
$33.89
Metrix Engine Water Pump
Brand: Metrix
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1997 - Acura CL L 2156 -
Metrix
1996 Acura TL Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 3.2L Metrix

P311-3EC0049    W0133-1608603  New

Qty:
$74.04
Metrix Engine Water Pump
  • Gasket #19313-P5G-000 (between the top of the water pump housing and the bottom of the thermostat housing) and o-ring #91312-PY3-000 (at the back of the thermostat housing) are also needed but are serviced separately. Order 1 of gasket 19313-P5G-000 and 3 of o-ring 91312-PY3-000 when installing this water pump.
Brand: Metrix
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1996 - Acura TL V 3206 -
Metrix
1997 Acura TL Engine Water Pump 6 Cyl 3.2L Metrix

P311-3EC0049    W0133-1608603  New

Qty:
$74.04
Metrix Engine Water Pump
Brand: Metrix
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1997 - Acura TL V 3206 -
Gates
2002 Acura RSX Engine Water Pump Gates

P311-3CB9BE7    W0133-1710352  New

Qty:
$171.34
Gates Engine Water Pump
  • Standard
Brand: Gates
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation
2002 - Acura RSX K20A2
Metrix
2001 Acura EL Engine Water Pump Metrix

P311-31C00A8    W0133-1621733  New

Qty:
$42.29
Metrix Engine Water Pump
Brand: Metrix
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
2001 - Acura EL
AISIN
2001 Acura EL Engine Water Pump AISIN

P311-53768D0    W0133-1621733  New

Qty:
$84.15
AISIN Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
Brand: AISIN
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Acura EL
NPW
2001 Acura EL Engine Water Pump NPW

P311-22F3708    W0133-1621733  New

Qty:
$85.85
NPW Engine Water Pump
Brand: NPW
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Acura EL
AISIN
2002 Acura RSX Engine Water Pump AISIN

P311-220A709    W0133-1611147  New

Qty:
$159.65
AISIN Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • with Gasket
  • with Gasket
Brand: AISIN
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation
2002 - Acura RSX K20A3
NPW
2002 Acura RSX Engine Water Pump NPW

P311-03F4D49    W0133-1611147  New

Qty:
$105.69
NPW Engine Water Pump
  • with Gasket
  • with Gasket
Brand: NPW
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation
2002 - Acura RSX K20A3
Genuine
2002 Acura RSX Engine Water Pump Genuine

P311-23670DF    W0133-1611147  New

Qty:
$184.10
Genuine Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with Gasket
  • with Gasket
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation
2002 - Acura RSX K20A3
AISIN
2003 Acura RSX Engine Water Pump AISIN

P311-220A709    W0133-1611147  New

Qty:
$159.65
AISIN Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • with Gasket
Brand: AISIN
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation
2003 - Acura RSX K20A3

Latest Acura Repair and Water Pump Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1993 Acura Integra - Keeps Overheating

Showing 6 out of 8 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From croatia84 on 1993 Acura Integra - Keeps Overheating

I have a 1993 Integra 1.8 DOHC. It was driving fine but recently started overheating, i replaced the thermostat, radiator cap and flushed the radiator but still overheats. I don't think it is the water pump because it's not loud and it's not leaking. Also i do not think that it is the head or intake gasket because i am not loosing oil or coolant.

Is there anything else i could try ?

I know it's an old car but i just put all new interior in it, new paint, wheels..... I hope i can save the engine.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Response From croatia84

I also did add water this morning while the engine was still cold and i tried to "burp" the engine by letting it run until air bubble came out.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I plain can't know the layout of every model of every car but you are nicely invested in this so try like crazy not to let it overheat. You may still have lots of air in it - some are a real pest to "burp" it all out, especially ones with radiator cap that is on the recovery tank. Check level again when cold.

Generally if heater will work you are close or done.

Water pump is a maybe. Some use steel impellers that just don't move enough coolant. If a composite (rot free) impeller probably not that. If return hose or heater is weak pump might cause that.

*Do fans work?
*Heater as said blows warm/hot air well?
*Hard to check but if you continually find level low head gaskets can put higher pressure gasses into cooling system. Can get test strips for evidence or if always low or lower when you check that's on the list. Most will show pressure just by squeezing upper rad hose way too early (don't burn yourself) just with a squeeze you can feel pressure way before it's warmed up enough.

* Will it get too warm just idling or do you have to be driving it? If only while drive fairly fast the air dam under bumper if missing can screw up air flow.

- Careful, but do you feel hot air off the fans?

-- Just some things to consider till the fix is diagnosed,

T

Response From croatia84

Hey Tom, thanks for the reply.

I tried to burp it out but water in the radiator keeps boiling, so i don't think i will be able to do that.

* Fans do work
* Heater does not blow hot air even when warm, but while i was trying to burp it i did feel it getting warmer
* I can't feel any pressure in the hose even when it's overheating.
* It gets warm either stopped or if driving.

I think i may have a bad radiator, is there an easy way to test it? I fill the radiator up but i do not see water moving or circulating.

Also i added water instead of 50/50 mix would that have any affect ?

Response From Hammer Time

You can't do it with the cap off. Fill the system and cap it. run the engine until the thermostat opens and then take it around the block. Shut it off and let it completely cool until dead cold. Open system and top off, repeat process until it stays full and you have heat.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

"* Heater does not blow hot air even when warm, but while i was trying to burp it i did feel it getting warmer
* I can't feel any pressure in the hose even when it's overheating.
* It gets warm either stopped or if driving.

I think i may have a bad radiator, is there an easy way to test it? I fill the radiator up but i do not see water moving or circulating.

Also i added water instead of 50/50 mix would that have any affect ? "

croatia - like HT said this can take several cycles and time to purge air out and take a long time to cool down and repeat as he said. Shops are now using a vacuum thing such that you can do it the first time - I don't own one but they (friends still in biz) can't take all day to purge fussy cars.

Comments on your observations: You don't have heat! If when you flushed it and heater core allowed flow you should and air or overheat would cause no heat or even poor heat from heater.

No pressure! Pressure check it with a real pressure tester and see if it can hold - bet it can't - not a good sign unless it's leaking unseen somehow. Careful if it loses pressure as a cylinder my be full of water! If so then take spark plugs out before cranking or it will hydraulic lock and possible damage. Water may spit out of a plug hole proof of a head gasket problem.

Water only is fine for testing for now but puts you back to needing the protection when stable so gotta learn how to get air out.
You don't need exactly 50/50 but should aim for -20F at least - many full strength antifreeze bottles have the % to add to achieve what. FYI - antifreeze is a lousy product for heat transfer but needed for protecting system. If it gets VERY cold where you are you do want comensurate concentration.

* This has overheated so much now I suspect you have a bad head or head gasket now with this -- what do you think HT? Getting higher on the list of reason this overheats?

T

Response From croatia84 Top Rated Answer

Thanks a bunch guys, this morning i had decided i will invest another $112 for a new radiator and that solved the problem. I'm not sure if the old radiator was bad or if there was too much air in cooling but problem solved.

Thanks for all the help

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Thanks for reporting your success. $112 for a radiator is chump change really and a good thing for a car of this age. Hope it stays cool and no other problems from overheating

T

89 Acura Integra radiator hose question

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From dlmcmurr on 89 Acura Integra radiator hose question

Can anyone tell me which radiator hose goes to the thermostat on this model? I've had the head off and replaced all the hoses at that time. The new hoses look like they fit better in the reversed position relative to the old hoses, but the engine got hot on the first run. That was with the top hose to the thermostat. I did bleed the thermostat housing during refilling. I thought upper hoses always went to the thermostat and someone before me had reversed them?

Thanks,
Dave

Response From Tom Greenleaf

. 1: Thermostat replacement-Integra
***************
Make sure spring end of thermostat is towards engine. There's a lot going on right there and may take a cycle or two to settle down and purge all air out. All the hoses must be right where they belong. This looks like other hoses are part of telling this t-stat when to open and if not all correct there will be problems. When at all possible - match up old hoses to new ones and many need to be cut at one or both ends to match. Everything I could find suggests the upper hose does go from thermostat to radiator directly, T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

http://www.autozone.com/...eId=0900c15280049680

True: Most thermostats won't go in backwards but some have an "up" side to assist air purging.

Try that site for the diagram.

Heater really should be run when first testing out a cooling system after it's been drained for any reason. Most will blow strong heat when full enough and if not there's still more to go (purging) ..

In a career I haven't seen many new thermostats be totally wrong and the problem. In troublesome cases I will test them in water watching the action work on a stove.

Air is lousy at transfering heat so t-stats can be slow to react to hot air but will in time - usually late. As said some are designed with notches or tiny check valves to allow air past them (must be installed with that "UP")for better self purging but even that is slow.

Keep at it. Air still in system is most likely the trouble so far,

T

Response From dlmcmurr

Tom,

Your link didn't work, but it pointed me in the right direction. In the radiator section at the same site, figure 1 shows the hose routing with the lower going to the stat and the upper going to the head. I'll reverse my hoses this evening and try to bleed the system better and see where it goes from here. Hope I haven't cut the one too short!

Thanks,
Dave

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ok: That's "AutoZone's" parts site. Some, not all when you look for a part will show how it's replaced, located or more about it. Look below when you get a picture of a thermostat for example the look for "repair guides" below that and if there's any further stuff it's hidden there - just a trick to be able to look at stuff.

If you can take pics that's even better so I/we can see just what you are dealing with.

Bleeding: If a plug up high on or near thermostat is there it's for letting air out. If not sometimes you can just remove the highest hose and fill from there and re-attach. Run engine till heater works and upper hose past thermostat is warm to hot and shut if off for a good while. It should be pushing air out to recovery reservoir and when it contracts as it cools can only draw back liquid. Can take many cycles of that to be stabil.

If heater worked before it will work now and when no heat is noted it's frequently because the actual liquid in the cooling system's engine side is still too low unseen at a glance. Understand that the thermostat when closed is not letting air thru it so it must be warm enough to open but don't let it overheat. As said - some t-stat's come with a slot or mini hole to let the air past it when cold but that's still painfully slow and with even minor junk going thru system won't work as it would plug.

Getting air out is not as quick and simple as it looks sometimes. Keep at it and look for the signs of temp stability as the idicator that it's mostly done and would finish the last tidbits of air over use so re-check your coolant level daily for a few days of use is suggested by me anyway.

Good luck - keep trying,

T

Response From dlmcmurr

Tom,

It always bugs me wondering how some suggestions worked out, so I thought I'd tell you how this project ended up now that it's running again and I've semi-caught up some of the other things that got behind.

This started out as project to replace a damaged exhaust valve. The last car head I had removed was in a Vega over 30 years ago, so the DOHC experience was not where I really wanted to start. It all went relatively well. As I said, I had used (obviously faulty) logic to decide the radiator hoses had originally been reversed. I put them back correctly, but things still weren't normal. Got frustrated and went to bed. On a whim, turned on the key the next morning and waited on the gauges to stabilize. Lo and behold, the temp gauge was showing normal after resting all night! Must have damaged it when I was banging the head around. Went out and bought another sending unit and that solved that problem. Once I put the proper Permatex on the head to radiator hose adapter (looks kinda like a smaller thermostat housing) and resisted the urge to tighten it all the way down, that solved another problem. Other little incidentals like the intake cam being one tooth off, a nicked O-ring on an injector (those are hard to find replacements for), etc. kept the job interesting. I enjoy reading and using web resouces to learn how things work, plus I really couldn't afford to replace my 280k+ mileage car right now. I had hoped that new valve stem seals, camshaft seals, and a valve cover gasket would make a significant difference in my oil consumption since they were all leaking, but that has not proven to be the case. Guess that means instead of $350, I should have spent 4 to 5 times that to rebuild the engine, but I was worried that even my $350 would be wasted as I would overlook (or cause) some other major problem. At least this gets it to where I can sell it in good conscience later if I want to. Plus I can buy a lot of oil for $1000.

I appreciate people like you that enjoy helping those of us that have the reasoning power and desire, but lack the practical experience to solve our problems. I try to do the same in other areas where I have knowledge.

Thanks again,
Dave

Response From dlmcmurr Top Rated Answer

Thanks, Tom. Fortunately, the thermostat only fits in one way, with the spring into the pipe running across the back of the block to the water pump. One thing I forgot to do was open the heater valve to purge that system, too. I'll run it through one more cycle this evening. Guess there's always a chance the new thermostat is bad, but probably I just didn't get enough air out. Is that drawing available somewhere that I can read the labels?

Dave

KNOW ONE CAN FIGURE

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From 904jason on KNOW ONE CAN FIGURE

94 acura vigor with aleeky water pump.added water drove 22 miles ran great intill a little BLUE smoke ONLY
started comeing out of tail pipe then lost most power the just died.
temperture gage showed fine but engin was steaming and blowing water out if radiator
added water little by little tryed to crank it and it was fireing not enough to start and run
now it just turns over and over and nothing and the compression is fine on all cilinders
IS THERE SENSER THAT SHUTS THE MOTOR DOWN WHEN IT OVER HEATS

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

Hopefully, you haven't done any lasting damage. First, the coolant temp sensor must be in contact with coolant for it to register properly. So, if you've lost your coolant due to a water pump leak, there's a very good chance that's why the guage didn't register hot. It sounds like you've lost compression from it getting so hot that it washed the cylinder walls of oil. You can remove the spark plugs and pour in a little oil in each cylinder (about .5
ounce per cyl), crank the engine over a few times, then perform a compression test. If you don't have a compression guage, put the plugs back in and see if it cranks over "more normally". If you are lucky, the compression will return by allowing the rings on the pistons to reseal with the added oil. And, if you're real lucky, it may start and run. Of course, it will smoke blue smoke until the oil that you put in burns off. Now, if all is good in the world, you can replace the water pump AND the thermostat and hope for the best. I'd fill it with just water in case you have blown your head gasket due to overheating, so you don't waste anti-freeze. Good luck.

Response From Big-T

Just a helping hand Land....He/She noted that compression is fine....

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

OOOPS...Just re-read. You're right. Thanks.

1989 Acura Legend L

Showing 2 out of 10 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From mike87 on 1989 Acura Legend L

Hi, recently with the last few months I was coming from North Carolina to Kentucky (600 some odd mile drive) and a little bit outside of Nashville, TN my car started smoking so I pulled off at a rest area

the water in the radiator was so hot that it was blowing it pure steam into the overflow the overflow was shaking like crazy because of the pressure being put on it I had to unscrew the cap for the overflow so it could blow all the steam out of the radiator

The cooling fans are working, thermostat is A ok replaced it 3 times, still doing it and the belts are OK my brother checked them for me

my dad says it is probably the head gaskets he works on cars a lot but hasn't got a chance to look at it at all yet

there isn't water coming out of the tailpipe, any leaks, nothing it's just like the water in the radiator is superheating and turning to pure steam and coming out of the overflow

it won't make it but about 5-10 miles before it starts doing it so I can't really drive it anywhere I had to have a tow track come tow it into kentucky

Any ideas what could be causing this? I don't really know much about cars
and also the only things different I did before the trip were add freon to the A/C (switched it over from old type to the new one) that's the only thing that was different

Response From carjunky

Who filled the radiator with fluid last? did you mix 50 / 50 water and antifreeze ? if your running mostly water that will lower the coolants boiling point. and you will need to add antifreeze to balance it out.


on the other hand if the coolant level is OK, you may need to wait for Tom, He is the AC expert around here and maybe the new freon did something.

Then again driving with ac on during hot days can have its toll on a car, especially an older vehicle.

Response From mike87

yes it was antifreeze and water but after it did it a few times I flushed the system and put water and block sealer in it

this stuff

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hi - I'm here,

Let's get this cooling problem fixed first and hit back all you want with the A/C.

Sounds like you DO need a head gasket repair. Of many ways they can fail is to put exhaust into the cooling system. Test for that with a cold engine and feel the upper rad hose before you start it up. It should not build up pressure very quickly but is supposed to as it warms up.

OK: If you feel pressure too quickly you could take the rad cap off when safe to do so, then check for bubbles comming up. Those just strong indications of needing the head gasket and or head work to fix this. It's wicked not good for you engine to overheat so the sooner the better.

As said -- we'll take care of A/C later. If the engine doesn't run you can't have A/C, T

Response From mike87

I did what you said just now Tom

the car was cold (Hasn't been started in weeks)
I started it up the pressure didn't change right away but within the first 1-2 minutes of it being started the hose got warm and harder, I felt the componets of the car nothing to my reach was warm even

damaged head gasket then?

P.S..there was no bubbles... but if I tap the top radiator hose it knocks lose some bubbles in there and it bubbles up to the top and the water goes down a bit

Response From Guest

there are products that can check for exhaust in the the coolant . why hasnt anyone mentioned water pump failure. also is this electric fan or clutch driven fan as in is there a belt on the pulley with the fan. i dont know too much but its all i can think of now.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Water pump failures are leakes and bearings. When I see the first one that doesn't pump water even while failing I'll post it, T

Response From Guest

i had a water pump failure at my shop recently where the shaft had broken. engine would run but no water being pumped. dont mean any disrespect T. ive read many of your replies and they are all good.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

That would be the fault that would stop a water pump. A missing belt would be obvious. I've never seen a water pump break like that in many decades but it sure doesn't mean it can't happen.

Thanks for the respose as you are the first that I've ever heard that happening to, T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

One to two minutes is just too quick except exhaust parts to warm up.

Tis is getting tricky by keyboard but next I would try to feel the hot water at the upper hose going into the rad and should be notably cooler at the bottom return hose or somehow the radiator isn't working.

It could be unable to transfer the heat from internal corrosion which is hard to see but if flushed would at least show the flow and some crusty stuff will NOT be removed by flushing it out.

Here to help. Tell me/us whatever you notice and we are doing our best. Any Ideas folks?

If all fails get this problem in to a trusted mechanic real soon with the info you have. Damn, I wish I could witness this! Many minds make great work but this should not go on for long or there will be more problems, T