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2012 Cadillac CTS Washer Fluid Reservoir LKQ

P311-325EF75    GM1288190  New

In Stock & Ready to Ship
LKQ Washer Fluid Reservoir
  • without headlight washer aftermarket assembly ; Platinum Pro Part
Brand: LKQ
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Body
2012 - Cadillac CTS Premium Sedan
Vibrant Performance
Washer Fluid Reservoir Vibrant Performance

P311-07A3331    10400  New

In Stock & Ready to Ship
Vibrant Performance Washer Fluid Reservoir
  • Windshield Washer Bottle Kit
  • Windshield Washer Bottle Kit; 1.2L Bottle And Accessories;
  • Features:
    • Plastic
    • Compact Universal Washer Bottle Kit
    • 1 Year Limited Warranty
  • Vibrant Performance washer bottles are excellent for novice or professional turbo or supercharger setups where the factory bottle takes up too much space and must be removed. The Vibrant Performance washer bottle provides a compact and effective replacement solution.

  • This is a Universal/Non Application Specific Product. To install this part, you made need to cut, weld, or make other modifications to your vehicle.
Brand: Vibrant Performance
Additional Fitment Information:

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

ghosts in my electrics

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From Pointplacekids on ghosts in my electrics

2002 gmc safari van v-6 two problems both elec. #1 heater blower works interminly, when I hit a bump in the road it comes on .??!! #2 the radio shuts down when trying to use ,clock will reapear after a time but no radio

Response From Hammer Time

The next time the blower goes out, rap on the motor with a screwdriver handle and see if it starts. If so, the motor is bad.

For the radio problem you will have to verify all the power and ground supplies while the problem is present.

Response From Pointplacekids

Thanks for the good info, the van was in head-on in 04. Thats why i thought they might be related as that both symtoms started at the same time.Butt... after hiting the motor and it giving me heat obviesly its the motor.To bad for the radio for the timebeing. Is there any special things to know when replaceing the motor , pulling the fender ect?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

No, the fender stays. It's really not that hard.

Here are the instructions

  1. Remove the air cleaner.
  2. Disconnect the electrical connectors.
  3. Remove the coolant recovery and windshield washer fluid reservoir assembly.
  4. Remove the 2 screws that retain the acoustic cover in the blower motor area. IMPORTANT: Retain this piece of the acoustic cover for reassembly.
  5. Cut the acoustic cover between the 5 clip lands.
  6. Remove the cooling tube from the motor.
  7. Remove the screws that retain the blower motor to the case.
  8. Remove the blower motor from the case.
  9. Inspect the flange of the blower motor for damage or distortion. IMPORTANT: Damage or distortion will cause an air leak.
  10. Repair the flange as necessary.
  11. Inspect the blower fan for damage and distortion.
  12. Repair or replace the blower fan as necessary.

  1. Install the blower motor to the case.
  2. Install the screws that retain the blower motor to the case. Tighten Tighten the screws to 2 N.m (18 lb in ).
  3. Install the cooling tube to the motor.
  4. Install the acoustic cover over the blower motor.
  5. Install the 2 screws that retain the cover to the case. Tighten Tighten the screws to 2 N.m (18 lb in ).
  6. Attach the 5 clips to the 5 clip lands in order to hold the motor and the case acoustic covers together.
  7. Install the coolant recovery and the windshield washer fluid reservoir assembly.
  8. Connect the electrical connectors.
  9. Install the air cleaner.

Response From Pointplacekids

Thank you for your help and Merry Christmas.

1992 Nissan Sentra Washer Pump Not Working

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From ScottR1767 on 1992 Nissan Sentra Washer Pump Not Working


I just purchased a 1992 Nissan Sentra as a first car for my daughter. It's in pretty good shape overall, but it has a few minor things that need to be fixed. One of those things is the washer pump. It doesn't work at all.

In trying to figure out if the problem is the pump, or something else, I wanted to check to see if there was voltage present at the connector that plugs into the pump. I would have expected to see only 2 wires going to the pump (hot and GND), but there are actually 4 wires, so I'm a bit confused.

Can anyone shed any light on this? What are the 4 wires for? I'd like to be able to confirm that it's a bad pump before I go buy one. Any troubleshooting ideas?


Response From way2old

Have you tested to see if there is current at the connector? It still needs voltage and current at the connector to work. So at least one will show current when swtich is turned on. According to my diagram, there is only 2 wires going to the washer. Should be a pink and a light green.

Response From ScottR1767

I tried to check the voltage at the connector, but the probe tips on the multimeter I was using were too big to go into sockets. I tried using straightened-out paper clips, but it was hard to tell if I was making a good connection. I guess I need to get a test light.

Interesting though, I had someone else tell me the same thing; that there were only two wires. I hope what I think is the washer pump is actually the washer pump. It's mounted up against the firewall on the driver's side of the car.....right?

Response From Double J Top Rated Answer should be mounted in the washer fluid reservoir...check there......

No juice to cigerette lighter

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From petelg on No juice to cigerette lighter

No hot wire to cigerette lighter. Hey guys... Still finding all sorts of little glitches in this thing...It's 1995 Nissan SE pickup. V6 automatic. I noticed I had no workable lighter... I took the cover off and tested the wireing to that juice..I then went to the fuse box and checked the fuse...It was good but I tested to see if I was getting juice to the point where the fuse plugged into the fuse box...Didn't have any there either..I did pull a few other fuses to see if they were hot and they were..Any ideas?...Thanks..

Response From Discretesignals

Just curious, but did you check for power with the ignition in the accessory or on position?

Response From petelg

Just wanted to follow up on the lighter problem... Problem solved...Wireing problem going to the lighter...Thanks for the help.

Response From Hammer Time

Check the Maxi-fuses in the engine compartment fuse box.

Response From petelg Top Rated Answer

OK, thanks for the get-back but here's another stupid question... What are the Maxi-fuses?...I see 4 big blue ones on the same side of the battery.(one is for fuel pump) and theres 3 big blue ones on the other side located between the washer fluid reservoir and the air filter.

'97 Town Car/ loud noise near rear tire.

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From outaluck1 on '97 Town Car/ loud noise near rear tire.

Hey Carjunky
This is my first post and Im not that car savvy so please bear with me.
I have a 1997 Lincoln town car
V8 not sure how many liter
107000 miles

OK well this noise happens while im driving, at different times. It seems to be starting when I slow down/stop and accelerate. I thought it was the breaks but it keeps going on even when the car is in park. It happens near the left rear wheel well. The sound is a low noise, kind of a metal stressing sound but I'm not entirely sure. From outside the car it almost has an air escaping sound but it is very faint. It might be cold related as well. I am completely clueless on this, does anyone want to throw out ideas of what it might be or how serious it is. Thank you.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Welcome and let the guessing begin

It's a 4.6 engine and that's not the point with this. If a noise is heard sitting still it near can't be brakes the way you described it.

This car has "air springs" instead of coil springs in the back and lines that go to each. The pump is under (I think) the washer fluid reservoir and now and then you would hear it pump as it levels the car also. If the pump underhood just carries on too long and hissing is heard it very well could be a leak in the system or in need of the airbag springs - suspension not interior air bags.

Your subject line says "real loud" so perhaps I'm off on wrong tangent. Hissing could also be exhaust noise. I think if a single exhaust the tailpipe goes to passenger's side but even so, noises can carry from source.

Can it make this noise with key on, engine off? If not that kind of rules out an exhaust noise but I'm near certain the air lifting springs are enabled.

Don't ignore leaks to those as unless that model year changed something the air is the only thing holding the rear of car up. If those blow out for any reason they sit so low you can't roll a golf ball under the car and will scrape on smallest surface grade changes. Not one of Ford's better ideas but they did that a lot in that vintage. If that's still suspect look for cracking on those air spring/bag things and you might find that soapy water could surface a leak when sprayed on one it would foam up or make bubbles and shouldn't,


Response From way2old

If the rear of the car is not lowering when turned off, is it possible the noise is the infamous Ford fuel pump whine?

Response From chickenhouse

I will venture a guess. Look into the load leveling system. There is an air compressor built in over/around the rear axle. This could also be the slight hiss noise you hear. When groceries are loaded into the trunk the car is supposed to raise automatically. Does this system still work?