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Full
1997 Volvo 850 Engine Oil Filter Full

P311-348A6F9    W0133-1634487  New

Qty:
$16.42
Full Engine Oil Filter
  • Spin-On
Brand: Full
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1997 - Volvo 850
Genuine
1997 Volvo 850 Engine Oil Filter Genuine

P311-2799261    W0133-1634487  New

Qty:
$15.08
Genuine Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Spin-On
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1997 - Volvo 850
AISIN
1996 Volvo 850 Engine Water Pump AISIN - w/o Bolts

P311-0AA33C3    W0133-1618560  New

Qty:
$134.74
AISIN Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • w/o Bolts
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1996 - Volvo 850
AISIN
1994 Volvo 850 Engine Water Pump AISIN - w/o Bolts

P311-0AA33C3    W0133-1618560  New

Qty:
$134.74
AISIN Engine Water Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • Eng: 131035-
  • w/o Bolts
Brand: AISIN
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Range
1994 - Volvo 850 131035 and up
Victor Reinz
1996 Volvo 850 Engine Crankshaft Seal Victor Reinz - Brown Fluor

P311-30C0D44    W0133-1631152  New

Qty:
$18.17
Victor Reinz Engine Crankshaft Seal
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Brown Fluor
Brand: Victor Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1996 - Volvo 850
Corteco
1996 Volvo 850 Engine Crankshaft Seal Corteco - Brown Fluor

P311-4BE8CC6    W0133-1631152  New

Qty:
$30.92
Corteco Engine Crankshaft Seal
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Brown Fluor
Brand: Corteco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1996 - Volvo 850
Metrix
1996 Volvo 850 Engine Water Pump Metrix - w/o Bolts

P311-4EBF0F8    W0133-1618560  New

Qty:
$40.86
Metrix Engine Water Pump
  • w/o Bolts
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1996 - Volvo 850
Metrix
1994 Volvo 850 Engine Water Pump Metrix - w/o Bolts

P311-4EBF0F8    W0133-1618560  New

Qty:
$40.86
Metrix Engine Water Pump
  • Eng: 131035-
  • w/o Bolts
Brand: Metrix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Range
1994 - Volvo 850 131035 and up
Mann-Filter
1997 Volvo 850 Engine Oil Filter Mann-Filter

P311-12BF467    W0133-1634487  New

Qty:
$24.95
Mann-Filter Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Spin-On
Brand: Mann-Filter
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1997 - Volvo 850
Husky Liners
1997 Volvo 850 Floor Mat Set - Rear Husky Liners - Heavy Duty Floor Mat

P311-08F4DF7    52021  New

Qty:
$57.95
Husky Liners Floor Mat Set  Rear
  • 2nd Or 3rd Seat Floor Mats
  • Black; 2 pc.; Does Not Cover Hump
  • Heavy Duty Floor Mat
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color: Black
    • Material: Rubber
    • Position: Rear
    • Style: Molded
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65: Yes
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65 Message: Cancer And Reproductive
  • Available for virtually all of today's top selling vehicles, Husky Liners(R) Heavy Duty Floor Mats are made ultra tough to take whatever abuse you throw at them. Other mats have met their match.
Brand: Husky Liners
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Position
1997 - Volvo 850 R Rear

Showing 1 - 10 of 2,674 Products.


Latest Volvo 850 Repair Guides & Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Volvo 850 Battery

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From Guest on Volvo 850 Battery

Hi,
My 1995 Volvo 850's battery dies anytime I let it sit for more than a day. The battery and alternator have been checked out and are fine. I've checked to be sure there are no lights on after I turn the car off. Any advice?

Response From steve01832 Top Rated Answer

One easy way to check for a parasitic draw is to disconnect the negative battery cable. Hook up a test light between the negative cable and the negative post on the battery. If the test light glows, unplug fuses one at a time until the light goes out. You have isolated the circuit that is draining the battery. Try this and hit back and we can go further.
Make sure that all doors are closed before doing this test or you will have a false draw.
Steve

Response From darrin

well 2 things come to mind. bad ground or a shorted wire. i'd check both. let me know if this helps.

Volvo 850 randomly shuts down while driving

Showing 7 out of 10 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From cbchameleon on Volvo 850 randomly shuts down while driving

I have a 95 Volvo 850 with 105,000 miles on it and I live at high altitude in Colorado. About two years ago it started giving me a problem. It would randomly shut off while driving. I will all of a sudden not be able to give it any gas and all the lights on the dash come on and the engine shuts off and then I'll need to pull over. For a while it would start right back up again and it didn't happen very often so I didn't really address the problem. But in the last year it has happened much more frequently and now it has become an issue because it won't start right back up again. Now I'll have to leave it wherever it is for about an hour and then it will start back up again.

The fuel filter, fuel relay, spark plugs have all been replaced. I took it back to the mechanic and then he changed the crank sensor. This didn't fix the problem. At this point I don't want to keep taking it back to him to just pay him to keep guessing. What should I do? Any ideas of what the problem might be?

Response From Hammer Time

and now it has become an issue because it won't start right back up again.

That should make it real easy for a qualified tech to find the problem.

Response From cbchameleon

"That should make it real easy for a qualified tech to find the problem."

Well last time it happened the mechanic came out and hooked up diagnostics and that's how he came to the conclusion of crank sensor but that didn't fix the problem.

Response From Hammer Time

Sounds like it's time for a more qualified tech.

Response From cbchameleon Top Rated Answer

"Sounds like it's time for a more qualified tech." Probably :-), unfortunately I live out in the middle of nowhere and don't have very many options, that's why I'm trying to do some research

Response From Sidom

I wish I had an easy answer and fix for you....but unfortunately don't...

I don't know if this will make more sense but in this business, there are different levels of expertise.... Depending on the type of problem you are having is where you will notice it or not......If the failure is something common or simple, then most techs can find & fix it and all is good.....
When the problem isn't so common, this is when the trouble starts. It takes a tech that understands how the systems work and who can systematically go thru those systems looking for the failure and knows what it looks like when he finds it....

The less experienced techs can't do this and reley on guessing.......

From your post, it sounds like this may not be something common.....You guy has already tried one of the most common items.....There are a few other common things but without the right equipment...it would be guessing....

At this point while it won't sound like the cheapest, easiest option at this point.....For this problem...It would be best to find a shop that can actually diagnose problem.....It's not going to be for free or even cheap......but in the long run....it'll probably be the cheapest....

Response From Hammer Time

If the car will stay dead long enough, then it's just a matter of going through a test sequence. This is real basic stuff for any qualified tech.

Here's what needs to be done.


All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

With Hammer on this.


Quote ">>The fuel filter, fuel relay, spark plugs have all been replaced. I took it back to the mechanic and then he changed the crank sensor. This didn't fix the problem. At this point I don't want to keep taking it back to him to just pay him to keep guessing. What should I do? Any ideas of what the problem might be?"


That suggests guesses on both fuel problems and ignition/spark problem. Tech should have narrowed it down by now even if they don't have enough info for a Volvo at hand,


T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Is this cranking when it doesn't start or not cranking at all? Makes a huge difference on what to chase down. Glad you mentioned high altitude AND Colorado. Fuel injected shouldn't care about altitude and Colorado cars (owned two) have less corrosion problems than places that use road salts and as I recall CO doesn't,


T

Response From cbchameleon

"Is this cranking when it doesn't start or not cranking at all?" It does crank, like it's trying to start.

Volvo 850 GLT '93

Showing 3 out of 6 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From Pinzir on Volvo 850 GLT '93

I have been having some problem with my car going into gear. Like for instance I will start start the car and drive off.. Even if I floor the pedal it will drive off slow, but once i get going its goes faster. And while I am driving, I will need to speed up and sometimes it won't change gears like it supposed to and I will have to let up on the gas and press it again..

And same thing when i make a stop at the red light and parking, even if I floor it won't drive off like t should. Could it be spark plugs or the air filter?

Any help is most appreciative

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Is this to say the RPMs go up and the car doesn't respond as in it is slipping? Sounds more like transmission is the issue. First make sure it's filled to the proper mark as per owner's manual instructions. If low find out where it's leaking. Even then if for the moment that isn't a very good sign for the transmission.

If this just lacks power there would be many things to check and I'd put an exhaust restriction as the first thing to rule out. A catalytic converter can do that if clogged. Takes some checking to verify the exact reason,

T

Response From nickwarner

Is the check engine light on?

Response From Pinzir

The only thing is a blinking arrow going up. And the Rpm will go up once I hit the gas, and if I am parked it will go off slowly but the Rpm will go to about 2 or 3. The previous owner told me something about it leaking and I need to replace the gasket.

Response From nickwarner

If the trans is leaking then you will either need to fix the leak or keep up on checking the fluid level. Transmissions aren't tolerant of getting hot and fluid is what they use to cool themselves along with actuating all the hydraulic circuits inside it that make it run. When you run it low on fluid it creates slippage which generates heat. But there is less fluid to absorb the excess heat created and its very damaging. You really need to maintain this with the proper fluid to the proper level or things get way more expensive than buying a gasket and some fluid. Get the fluid level up to spec and see how it drives. Hopefully it hasn't wrecked the internals yet. That would surely put a damper on Christmas.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

"The only thing is a blinking arrow going up. And the Rpm will go up once I hit the gas,"

Is this a standard shift transmission? Doesn't matter that I don't know every possible car or dash lights but to me those "arrow up" lights were there to upshift which changes everything now if this is a standard. Now sounds more like it needs a clutch if so,

T