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Ishino Stone
2004 Infiniti QX56 Engine Valve Cover Gasket Ishino Stone

P311-2DF0D4D    W0133-1767468  New

Qty:
$14.43
Ishino Stone Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 01/2004-
Brand: Ishino Stone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2004 - Infiniti QX56 Fr:01-00-04
Ishino Stone
2010 Infiniti QX56 Engine Valve Cover Gasket Ishino Stone

P311-2DF0D4D    W0133-1767468  New

Qty:
$14.43
Ishino Stone Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Ishino Stone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2010 - Infiniti QX56
Nippon Reinz
2003 Infiniti FX35 Engine Valve Cover Gasket Nippon Reinz

P311-5DCA65E    W0133-1722383  New

Qty:
$38.34
Nippon Reinz Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 11/2002-, This engine does not have separate gaskets at the spark plug tubes.
  • Right
Brand: Nippon Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2003 - Infiniti FX35 Fr:11-00-02
Nippon Reinz
2007 Infiniti G35 Engine Valve Cover Gasket Nippon Reinz

P311-5DCA65E    W0133-1722383  New

Qty:
$38.34
Nippon Reinz Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • This engine does not have separate gaskets at the spark plug tubes.
  • Right
Brand: Nippon Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation
2007 - Infiniti G35 VQ35DE
Nippon Reinz
2003 Infiniti G35 Engine Valve Cover Gasket Nippon Reinz

P311-5DCA65E    W0133-1722383  New

Qty:
$38.34
Nippon Reinz Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 01/01/2002-, This engine does not have separate gaskets at the spark plug tubes.
  • Right
Brand: Nippon Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2003 - Infiniti G35 Fr:01-01-02
Nippon Reinz
2002 Infiniti I35 Engine Valve Cover Gasket Nippon Reinz

P311-5DCA65E    W0133-1722383  New

Qty:
$38.34
Nippon Reinz Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 07/2001-, Firewall side. This engine does not have separate gaskets at the spark plug tubes.
  • Right
Brand: Nippon Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2002 - Infiniti I35 Fr:07-00-01
Nippon Reinz
2004 Infiniti I35 Engine Valve Cover Gasket Nippon Reinz

P311-5DCA65E    W0133-1722383  New

Qty:
$38.34
Nippon Reinz Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Firewall side. This engine does not have separate gaskets at the spark plug tubes.
  • Right
Brand: Nippon Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Infiniti I35
Nippon Reinz
2006 Infiniti M35 Engine Valve Cover Gasket Nippon Reinz

P311-5DCA65E    W0133-1722383  New

Qty:
$38.34
Nippon Reinz Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 01/2005-, This engine does not have separate gaskets at the spark plug tubes.
  • Right
Brand: Nippon Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2006 - Infiniti M35 Fr:01-00-05
Nippon Reinz
2003 Infiniti QX4 Engine Valve Cover Gasket Nippon Reinz

P311-5DCA65E    W0133-1722383  New

Qty:
$38.34
Nippon Reinz Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 07/01/2002-, This engine does not have separate gaskets at the spark plug tubes.
  • Right
Brand: Nippon Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2003 - Infiniti QX4 Fr:07-01-02
Nippon Reinz
2002 Infiniti QX4 Engine Valve Cover Gasket Nippon Reinz

P311-5DCA65E    W0133-1722383  New

Qty:
$38.34
Nippon Reinz Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 07/01/2001-06/30/2002
  • Right
Brand: Nippon Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2002 - Infiniti QX4 Fr:07-01-01 To:06-30-02
Nippon Reinz
2008 Infiniti M35 Engine Valve Cover Gasket Nippon Reinz

P311-5DCA65E    W0133-1722383  New

Qty:
$38.34
Nippon Reinz Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -05/31/2008, This engine does not have separate gaskets at the spark plug tubes.
  • Right
Brand: Nippon Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2008 - Infiniti M35 To:05-31-08
Nippon Reinz
2003 Infiniti FX35 Engine Valve Cover Gasket Nippon Reinz

P311-03755B1    W0133-1638027  New

Qty:
$15.61
Nippon Reinz Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 11/2002-, This engine does not have separate gaskets at the spark plug tubes.
  • Left
Brand: Nippon Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2003 - Infiniti FX35 Fr:11-00-02
Nippon Reinz
2007 Infiniti G35 Engine Valve Cover Gasket Nippon Reinz

P311-03755B1    W0133-1638027  New

Qty:
$15.61
Nippon Reinz Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • This engine does not have separate gaskets at the spark plug tubes.
  • Left
Brand: Nippon Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation
2007 - Infiniti G35 VQ35DE
Nippon Reinz
2003 Infiniti G35 Engine Valve Cover Gasket Nippon Reinz

P311-03755B1    W0133-1638027  New

Qty:
$15.61
Nippon Reinz Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 01/01/2002-, This engine does not have separate gaskets at the spark plug tubes.
  • Left
Brand: Nippon Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2003 - Infiniti G35 Fr:01-01-02
Nippon Reinz
2002 Infiniti I35 Engine Valve Cover Gasket Nippon Reinz

P311-03755B1    W0133-1638027  New

Qty:
$15.61
Nippon Reinz Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 07/2001-, Raidiator side. This engine does not have separate gaskets at the spark plug tubes.
  • Left
Brand: Nippon Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2002 - Infiniti I35 Fr:07-00-01
Nippon Reinz
2004 Infiniti I35 Engine Valve Cover Gasket Nippon Reinz

P311-03755B1    W0133-1638027  New

Qty:
$15.61
Nippon Reinz Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Raidiator side. This engine does not have separate gaskets at the spark plug tubes.
  • Left
Brand: Nippon Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Infiniti I35
Nippon Reinz
2006 Infiniti M35 Engine Valve Cover Gasket Nippon Reinz

P311-03755B1    W0133-1638027  New

Qty:
$15.61
Nippon Reinz Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 01/2005-, This engine does not have separate gaskets at the spark plug tubes.
  • Left
Brand: Nippon Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2006 - Infiniti M35 Fr:01-00-05
Nippon Reinz
2003 Infiniti QX4 Engine Valve Cover Gasket Nippon Reinz

P311-03755B1    W0133-1638027  New

Qty:
$15.61
Nippon Reinz Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 07/01/2002-, This engine does not have separate gaskets at the spark plug tubes.
  • Left
Brand: Nippon Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2003 - Infiniti QX4 Fr:07-01-02
Nippon Reinz
2002 Infiniti QX4 Engine Valve Cover Gasket Nippon Reinz

P311-03755B1    W0133-1638027  New

Qty:
$15.61
Nippon Reinz Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 07/01/2001-06/30/2002
  • Left
Brand: Nippon Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2002 - Infiniti QX4 Fr:07-01-01 To:06-30-02
Nippon Reinz
2008 Infiniti M35 Engine Valve Cover Gasket Nippon Reinz

P311-03755B1    W0133-1638027  New

Qty:
$15.61
Nippon Reinz Engine Valve Cover Gasket
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -05/31/2008, This engine does not have separate gaskets at the spark plug tubes.
  • Left
Brand: Nippon Reinz
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2008 - Infiniti M35 To:05-31-08

Latest Infiniti Repair and Valve Cover Gasket Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1991 Nissan Sentra Excessive Oil Burning

Showing 2 out of 17 Posts | Show 15 Hidden Posts
Question From BurninOil on 1991 Nissan Sentra Excessive Oil Burning

Hi all. I recently have been having trouble with my old Sentra. Here are the details.

Recently the crank seal and valve cover gasket started leaking. I replaced both.

Next time I drive it, the car is smoking (blue) and stumbling when shifting. Just as you let off the clutch and accelerate. It also pings about half the time just as it belches out a large cloud of smoke.

I've replaced the PCV valve and found the 2 vent hoses coming off the valve cover soaked in oil. Prior to changing the valve cover gasket these hoses were dry.

The car burns 1 quart in about 150 miles. Highway speeds no smoke is visible. From a stop, up through the gears it smokes (cloud larger than the car).

Prior to the crank seal and valve cover gasket, the car burned NO oil. Not a drop in the 227k miles before this. The car also just passed CA smog with no problems less than 1 month ago.

Any ideas? I replaced the seals around each sparkplug tube and the PCV valve. I tried 2 valves, one aftermarket, one from Nissan. The 2 vent hoses from the valve cover were reinstalled properly.

On the inside top of the valve cover is a baffle that separates the PCV vent and breather tubes from the valve train. This baffle is sealed around 3 of the 4 edges and takes up about 2/3rds of the area inside the cover. At one end there is a slight edge where I assume it lets the area "breath" through the PCV and other vent hose to the intake. Is there something above this baffle that could have dislodged and is no longer keeping the intake from drawing oil off the valve train? The baffle is riveted in place so there is no easy way to remove it.

This is the second crank seal I've put in it (original lasting 170k) and the first time the valve cover has been removed.

Any tips would be appreciated!

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

It sounds like you've got a broken piston ring or piston. When this happens, it over pressurizes the crankcase, which would explain your oil leaks. It will leak wherever is the least path of resistance. If you remove the oil fill cap with the engine running, you'll probably notice pressure, rather than PCV suction. Hopefully, I'm wrong, but doesn't sound good.

Response From BurninOil

Thanks for the reply. That's what I was thinking as well. I forgot to mention but I also did a compression check and all 4 cylinders are between 180 and 182. I don't suspect it to be a ring since the compression is still normal. When the car is no stumbling and smoking (mid-range and higher), it runs perfect. Same performance as before.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Check your compression tester - that's unrealistic for a 227k engine that smokes like that - unless perhaps the cylinders are full of oil.

What do the plugs look like? Is PCV overcoming normal blowby?

Try pressure on cyl when at TDC and see where it blows out of,

T

Response From BurninOil

I used 3 different compression testers, all were the kind that thread into the spark plug (1 I own, 2 I rented), not the kind with the rubber tip you hold down. I've used the one I own on other vehicles that I know have bad rings and it shows a realistic number (70s for my old van on 2 of the cylinders). That vehicle pumps oil out the dipstick under load. I don't think it's the tool.

The plug tips are white/grey and clean, no oil. There is oil around the threads of the plugs up to the sealing washers but not a lot. The PCV valve has oil in it and so does both the vent lines off the valve cover. If it broken a ring, wouldn't it run badly all the time and make a lot of noise? The car idles smooth and starts right up. Running normally when it isn't puffing smoke. When it puffs, that's when it runs badly, but only for a few seconds and then it's back to normal. It's not smoking from every stop sign. Mainly if I drive highway speeds and then idle at a light. When I pull away, smoke. If it's a worn out ring, wouldn't it have been using oil prior to this? I've owned the car since new. Just seems odd it would break a ring coincidentally the only time I've pulled the valve cover off.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK: It manages to "burn" enough oil to see it as said and consume it. Now I'm thinking of what connection taking a valve cover off would have and what I'm thinking is it isn't sealed well enough (guess) such that PCV system can't produce a slight vacuum to overcome normal blowby which is loaded with oil and the crankcase vapors are drawn back in thru the PCV which also should separate liquid oil from just the foggy vapor and isn't!

All kinds of things seal the crankcase and one is the valve cover. Off the top of my head - Oil fill cap, dipstick, front and rear seals, head gasket and perhaps intake gasket and certain hoses have check valved like the one to a common vac assist brake booster.

If pressure is allowed in crancase, oily vapor will invade, harm some hoses and blow out the weakest links first and likely make more weak links. Gotta make sure PCV system is doing its job.

Agreed - the compression test doesn't show a broken ring and seems like plugs aren't giving up any evidence.

Since this started with the valve cover change I'd go back and see if something isn't right with that. The area also must drain back to oil pan and if that fills with oil that can't return for some reason it can suck right down valve guides but you aren't seeing fouled plugs so I'm good and confused.

Never witnessed by me but I think problems with rings can happen such that they might test out fine and still be the issue??

T

Response From BurninOil

Thanks Tom. I'll pull the cover off and see if I can find the oil returns and make sure the cover is sealing.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

I agree with Tom on the compression test. However, if the cylinders are getting a lot of oil in them, the oil will really seal up that cylinder, but all of them? The odds are......can't find an infiniti symbol on my keyboard. How did the blow-by feel by hand? It's possible to lose a valve guide and suck oil, but all four cyls? Where's that symbol?
The cylinder head is pretty well open; Unless you've been using Pennzoil or Quaker State, I doubt that the oil return holes are so plugged that the oil would be forced by the valve guide seals. Gasket debris plugging the holes? Possible. Vacuum hose to the PCV connected to manifold vacuum? Sufficient vacuum? I've seen the passageways plugged. Hose from valve cover to PCV unrestricted, not kinked? So many questions. LOL.

Response From BurninOil

Car has always had Quaker State. There is no residue or build up in the valve train area. No carbon deposits I can see. There isn't any gasket debris as the valve cover uses a large o-ring type of gasket and not a paper one. It fits in a groove on the cover itself. The PCV mounts directly on the cover so no vacuum leak in a hose to it. The hose leaving the PCV is a formed hose with a 90 bend (which I replaced due to it being solid feeling from years of heat). None of the hoses are kinked or restricted. When I turned the motor over while changing the front seal it felt like it had good compression.

Still scratching my head on this one. It's been this way for almost 2 months now.

Response From aartig

Yeah ...you are very true. I agree with you. Even I tried and found the same.

(link removed by moderator)

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Loren - you have to turn your keyboard sideways and hit the #8 key !!



There you go,

T

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Oh, great! NOW you tell me!

Response From BurninOil

What about the metal plate that blocks the inside of the valve cover off? Is there something above this? Both of the 2 vents from the intake connect above this plate. One vent has the PCV in it. The hose from the PCV connects to the intake manifold itself. The second vent tube connects to the rubber boot from the airbox, with no valve, it's just an open hose. How is this hose not sucking oil all the time without a PCV in it? There must be something above that metal plate.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Generally speaking the spot a PCV picks up vapor has baffles or a crooked path, or a steel wooly mesh to run thru in an attempt to separate oil droplets before PCV itself get a breath of the vapors to conserve on oil loss/burning. Some concepts are like the mesh over a stove that isn't or is vented for a grease collector in your kitchen type idea.

Perhaps in the recent work something was left out, broke, bent or something causing more oil droplets to get drawn in. Doesn't take many droplets to add up to real oil consumption - followed by clogging hose, ports, fouled plugs from excessive oil burning,

T

Response From BurninOil

Nothing was left out during the work I did. Nothing broke, bent, pinched that I can find. The 2 hoses are very short, less than 6" and about impossible to hook up wrong. I may have to drill out the plate under the top of the cover to see if there is some kind of steel wool or other filtering device in there. I don't think I could have damaged it. I literally lifted off the cover, pulled the old o-ring (cover gasket) out of the groove it fits in, wiped off the sealing surface with a clean rag, put in the new o-ring and put the cover back on. The new o-ring isn't leaking. Since that first time I had the cover off, I pulled it off 3 or 4 more times looking for anything that might be causing this. So far nothing. Replaced the seals around the spark plug tunnels the 2nd time I removed the valve cover.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

To refresh this now long thread:

Oil "smoke" trouble began directly after replacing a crank seal AND the valve cover gasket on a 91 Nissan with some 227,000 miles.

Test show little so far as to why the sudden change but a problem was there to need those seals to begin with in a VERY high mile engine.

Oil burning and seen as smoke somehow isn't fouling plugs and evidence of severe blow by for any reason not conclusive to me at least.

Oil can be burned by excessive blow by, PCV issues or perhaps head gasket issues that were coincidental?? Oil separating at PCV shouldn't have changed with the work recently done. Not sure how that is accomplished in this exact engine. May not be a steel wool type deal but a series of baffles?? Simply dunno.

Rather than drilling thru cover for a view I might try clear hose temporarily to see what's going on thru the hose to PCV. Most clear hose wouldn't last so just a test.

It's not following a clear path of any commonly known issue that I'm familiar with so don't know what else to suggest. Perhaps a second set of eyes and hands on this would be a prudent choice?

Side note to be taken for face value: When an engine needs a rear main seal it usually means there is wear out of norms in crank bearings marking the beginning of the end of the useful life of an engine. Not encouraging but that's been my experience,

T

Response From BurninOil

I appreciate the help and tips. It was the front main seal, which was also replaced at 170k miles. Second one lasted until 227k. I agree, I need to have some more eyes look at it and see. Obviously something is wrong that I'm just not seeing. PCV is oil saturated and so are both vent hoses which seem to indicate there is a pressure problem in the crankcase.

Thanks again for the tips!

2004 Infiniti G35 Noise

Showing 2 out of 8 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From birdland1982 on 2004 Infiniti G35 Noise

I have a 2004 Inifiniti G35 sedan (3.5L V6) with 120K miles on it.

It has been making a terrible whirring/chugging/rumbling sound (almost like the engine of a semi-truck) when I drive it. The sound is loosely associated with when I depress the accelerator--it gets louder. However, it doesn't stop when I let up on the accelerator, but then gradually dies down.

I posted a video with the noise at:



I am in stop and go traffic, so you can hear the sound come and go.

It has been doing this for several days, after a period where it hadn't been making this noise. I have taken it to two mechanics in the past when this problem arose. The first one wasn't able to diagnose it. The second replaced the accelerator pedal. He also said it has a slow oil leak. Tonight, the oil light came on. I checked the oil level and it looked very low, so I added 3/4 L of oil. I haven't been able drive it since then to see if the problem has gone away.

Can someone tell me if this noise is related to the oil leak, and results from having low oil? Or is this a red herring and the problem is something else entirely?

Thank you in advance for your help!



link repaired

Response From Discretesignals

Might want to screw in an oil pressure gauge and see what the actual oil pressure is. Sounds like the chains are rattling around possibly due to low oil pressure. Other than for diagnosing the issue, you shouldn't run the engine anymore. It may be too late and will probably be needing another engine, so don't be surprised if that is what it comes down to.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Thanks HT, finally got it. My device wants it to show like this link........
https://www.youtube.com/...amp;feature=youtu.be
Don't ask - I don't know why on that part.


OK - does sound like low oil pressure. Agree with DS that has to be verified mechanically and oil issue resolved if it was way too low or for another reason checked if massive engine damage has already occurred - awful hard to say just the good news for now is it runs at all so there's a chance a repair will do it - not sure without checking on a lot of assorted things,


T
(About links to YouTube) When original shows in my view with an extra {{.}} dot it will not show. I can't be alone that it takes removing that dot and the HTTP// sometimes you get to it or not the issue at all?? If the script can't be typed or copy/pasted as posted here instead of turning purple in my view (hyperlink) it has to be exact. A problem with this site only - why is anyone's guess? Tom

Response From birdland1982

Thanks, gentlemen. Here's the rest of the story:

I had it towed to a shop today. They added 2 quarts of oil and when they started it they didn't hear any noise. They found two slow leaks: valve covers and rear main seal (this is consistent with what previous techs found). They said not worth it to fix these right now, just recommended checking oil level every month (if not every time I get gas) and add oil as necessary (this is also similar advice to previous techs). Other then that, they said it has a clean bill of health. They think the noise was the timing chain which becomes loose with low levels of oil.

I drove it home and no noise, and car drove very smoothly. Hopefully no more issues.

Response From Discretesignals

Might want to at least check the oil pressure on that and have the valve covers resealed. You really think the wife is going to check the oil level on that every time she goes for a drive? LOL

The mechs don't want to do it because they want to wait and see if the engine blows up or shows any signs of mechanical problems. Or they are like me and hate working on Nissans...

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

No! DS posted a likely reason - 5 stars for that and most would miss that IMO.

You added almost a qt. then the shop could add 2 more! You were near seize up just on that then for any reason it was that low on oil.

Your tech's suggestions I can't compete with being there but isn't right somewhere. You just don't use up about 3 quarts of oil and not need a repair unless you haven't touched anything for years or something like that maybe and that would be its own problem.

You could buy a case of oil and check it every couple miles and it isn't the answer.

OK - They said rear main seal and valve cover gaskets were seen as leaking. Understood and my experience is frequently by the time an engine really leaks (not just damp at rear main) it's beaten up by a worn crank and engine along with the valve covers leaking suggests excessive blow by and worn engine as well.

Fine, if that's all true and this is now just buying whatever time this engine has left that's fine and AYOR but would want to know for sure better that those who checked it in person suggested.

I will not argue with checking oil every time you get fuel and not waiting for warning of either low oil and check it or the death warning of oil pressure below spec - those frequently too late when they do come on properly!

Hey it's your car and money but sounds like you have a chance with saving this engine and it's really not sure to me it's ready to just buy time till it croaks!

Just you should be well informed of risks of the advice you were told and fine with me if you are ready to give up on this engine or whole car just know that are are rolling the dice every time you drive it IMO,

T

Response From Discretesignals

They had problems with blowing the rear timing cover paper gasket resulting in low oil pressure, so that is a possibility.

You would have to remove the timing chain cover to see it.


Response From Tom Greenleaf

Couldn't make your link to video work yet - always trouble with those unless clickable for me.


Doesn't matter for now. Your oil light came on AND you found oil level low and added some but was it added to filled or just added some? C'mon sport - oil light isn't for entertainment it's fatal for an engine in no time at all to run at all without oil pressure for any reason one of which is low oil level.


You have a warning and possible fatal damage now for that engine. Sorry two techs with it didn't do better at finding the problem or telling you for sure what it even could be,


T