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Standard Ignition
2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee Vacuum Pump 6 Cyl 3.6L Standard Ignition

P311-57E6274    VCP145  New

EC1428 , 4581954AB

Qty:
256.32
Standard Ignition Vacuum Pump
  • Vacuum Pump
  • Product Attributes:
    • Hardware Included: No
    • Hose Connector Quantity: 1
    • Hose Size - Inches: 3/8"
    • Notes: Vacuum
  • Direct-fit OE replacement ensures proper fit, form, and function, which leads to a trouble-free installation. High-quality O-rings and seals prevent leaks and maintain proper vacuum pressure. Undergoes 100% pressure testing to prevent leaks and ensure OE-matching performance. As a global manufacturer, we maintain complete quality control throughout the manufacturing process.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2018 - Jeep Grand Cherokee V 6 Cyl 3.6L 220 3604
Dorman
2018 Jeep Wrangler Vacuum Pump 6 Cyl 3.6L Dorman

P311-03CA197    904-857  New

EC1260 , VCP136

Qty:
171.16
Dorman Vacuum Pump
  • ; w/Bracket
  • Product Attributes:
    • Connector Gender: Female
    • Connector Shape: Rectangle
    • Diaphragm Included: No
    • Drive Type: Electric Motor
    • Inlet Port Inside Diameter: 0.26
    • Inlet Port Outside Diameter: 0.38
    • Inside Diameter: 0.38 In.
    • Mounting Hardware Included: Yes
    • Outlet Port Inside Diameter: 0.105
    • Outlet Port Outside Diameter: 0.225
    • Port Quantity: 2
    • Pulley Included: No
    • Terminal Quantity: 2
    • Terminal Type: Blade
    • Type: Electric
    • Vacuum Port Diameter: 0.38 In.
    • Vacuum Port Quantity: 2
    • Vacuum Pump Connector: Barbed
    • Vacuum Pump Drive System: Electric Motor Drive
    • Vacuum Pump Inlet: 0.38 In.
    • Vacuum Pump Outlet: 0.225 In.
    • Vacuum Relief Valve: Yes
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2018 - Jeep Wrangler V 6 Cyl 3.6L 220 3604

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Compressor/condenser/etc. on 2000 Jeep Cherokee

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From earksiinni on Compressor/condenser/etc. on 2000 Jeep Cherokee

Hi all,

I've got a 2000 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L with 68,000 miles and a broken A/C system. My local shop told me that the compressor needs to be replaced, and after they quoted me an exorbitant price, I decided that I wanted to try replacing it myself. I'm new to serious car repair and I'm aware that this is a pretty involved job, but I'm pretty handy with tools and have done small car repairs in the past. Plus, learning how to fix my car is as important a motivation as saving money for me.

Before I replace the compressor, I wanted to test it to see for myself whether it's broken, but the service manual only mentions acoustic tests to determine whether the compressor is the source of strange noises rather than if the part is actually broken or not. How can I tell whether it needs to be replaced? Also, after having read up on A/C systems, I understand that I should have a condenser in my car, but the manual doesn't mention it at all. Is there a way I can diagnose that, too?

Thanks!

Response From comnavguy Top Rated Answer


Do you live anywhere near Dallas? I'm mr. help'em in my neighborhood and would be glad to give you pointers.

Autozone puts out a pretty good CD on AC repair, but you'll need a decent set of gauges and a vacuum pump among a good set of tools and an air compressor to blow out the lines...BUT you can't JUST blow out the lines. AND if you have a parallel condenser, you can't blow it out. Lots and lots of things to consider.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

comnavguy: You can flush out/blow out HE and parallel flow condensers. It's usually not worth it is the problem. They need be set flat with unreal volume of compressed air to get lacquer thinner or flush agents out or it would trash more of the system.

The cost of new vs cost of flush materials and time for all that is impractical for most. You risk messing the whole job up again so it's not suggested when debris is found for one of those. That and if it has an unseen leak itself it's all for nothing,

T

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

eark; Tom G. is the one with the A/C knowledge, but until he sees this, I'll put my 2 cents worth in; LOL.
You can take off the belt that drives the compressor and turn the compressor by hand (not just the clutch assy.). You'll probably feel a roughness, or maybe even it won't turn, at all. When the compressor takes a dump, it needs to be replaced along with the reciever/drier, orifice tube, system flushed, evacuated, and recharged. Replacing the compressor doesn't take rocket science, but the rest of it takes a professional. Good luck.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Loren has it. It's not so simple and lots to consider and know or it will all be for waste. If compressor is just leaking they can be simpler jobs but if rough now or about to seize it's big trouble and lots to do.

What happens is compress fails frequently if lower miles because of low charge so if it's not the leak then throw finding and fixing that too. Could be a 5 cent O ring or who knows? The low charge doesn't carry sufficient oil to keep compressor lubed and all hell breaks lose. They can just up and quit too but you still need to know if it left a debris field.

Yes it's expensive but consider the mega thousands in equipment it can take to do this right and the training it took. It's a tough call on whether to try to save money DIYing A/C stuff as a mistake can cost you all your efforts and still need it done.

Not trying to discourage you but know it's not always so simple,

T

Remote starter messing with PCM?

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From zmasterflex on Remote starter messing with PCM?

1996 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 55k. I tried to install a remote starter today. It didnt initialize properly but it managed to start my car one time. The next 4-5 times it cranked the motor but the car didnt start. I tried to start the car with the key and it just kept turning over but no start. I disconected the remote starter checked the connections and tried again. No start just cranking. I tried to start it while hitting the gas it started but it wouldn't hold an idle. I started the car in neutral and drove it around the block and it idled fine after that but then after I shut it off it gave me trouble starting without me hitting the gas. Sometimes when I start it it catches and idles fine and others it doesn't catch or just instantly idles out. The fuses beween the remote starter module and the rest of the car are not blown. The module stopped responding to the keyfob also. The only problem I care about right now is my car not starting. Any help or ideas would be great thanks.

Response From Sidom

It's possible you might have something else going on.....Pull the codes to see if you set anything....

It might be a PITA but remove the system completely and get it running right.......Then sit down and go over the instructions & wiring diagrams very carefully to make sure the install didn't go south....... Everyone is different but at least a 6 pack before I start usually works out good for me......

One thing you may try before doing of this is see if there is a tech help number for the system.....This might be a common problem with this system and older JTEC PCMs. Hopefully a quick call will take care of it for you....................

Response From zmasterflex Top Rated Answer

Thanks for the reply. Thankfully the problem was quite simple. Being that the engine would catch when I had my foot on the gas I figured that something might be wrong on the air intake. When I rented a vacuum pump to test the Map sensor it was pointed out to me that a bad sensor would throw a code and my CE wasnt on (96 jeep is OBD2). I cleaned out the air intake with carb cleaner careful not to get any on the iac, map and whatever the 3rd one there is, and the car hasn't given me a problem since. As for the remote starter when I reset the module it started working properly. 2 different problems at the same time 2 easy solutions

2006 Jeep Liberty compressor not engaging

Showing 2 out of 9 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From 96Cobra on 2006 Jeep Liberty compressor not engaging

Hello all, here's the vehicle details: 2006 Jeep Liberty, 3.7L, 134,439 miles. This is my friends vehicle, and she told me that the AC wasn't working, and hasn't been blowing cold air in sometime. She also told me that someone tried to recharge the system (not at a shop) but that it didn't work, about a year ago. Here's what I've been able to figure out: the magnetic clutch on the compressor is not engaging. All of the wiring appears to be in good condition, no burnt wires or frayed ends, no corrosion that I saw on any of the connectors. All of the components of the AC system appear to be in good condition. I hooked up a pressure gauge to the low side with the engine off, and with the engine on with the AC on full, and in both cases it read 0 pressure. I'm having a hard time trying to figure out what's wrong given the amount of possibilities there are. My thought was that the compressor was not kicking on because there was not enough refrigerant in the system, probably due to a leak. However, the when I attempted to add R-134a with dye, onto the low side, it would not take any in. Any thoughts on what I should look to next?

Response From johnbkobb

Response From Tom Greenleaf

NO! We don't know that yet at all,

T

Response From Sidom

Just to echo what Nick has already said......You have to start off with the zero pressure......Obviously you have a leak that needs to be found....
That would start off with getting some refrigerant & dye in the system.....If there is a problem with the service port, then that would need to be addressed 1st.
You do want a pro set of manifold gauges, to accurately diagnose the system we would need both high & low reading..

Also for your own safety, you want to know what the high side is doing. Certain malfunctions can cause very high, high side reading.....Without know where the high side is on a running system, you could seriously hurt yourself or someone else

Response From 96Cobra

Thanks for the replies guys. I do have access to a set of real gauges for HVAC, but I didn't have the correct adapters for automotive use, but I did have one of the cheap adapter hoses that only hooks onto the low side so that's what I used. None of the refrigerant went into the system, the bottle is still completely full, but you're correct, the system was not placed into a vacuum before that. My friend doesn't have any money to spend on it, so I was just trying to get an idea of what was wrong without investing too much of my own money. Maybe the best thing to do would be to take it in though.

Response From Hammer Time

I do have access to a set of real gauges for HVAC, but I didn't have the correct adapters for automotive use,

That would mean that they are R12/R22 gauges and not R134A as required for this car.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If good R-12/R-22 gauges a set of three hoses with adaptor fittings and the legal end shut offs are readily available. If your current set isn't in good shape it's time for proper stuff. Low end real gauges seem OK for limited use and not way too expensive,

T

Response From Sidom

If you don't have a manifold set that will work, that might be the best idea. It's very possible the system is full and that the little gauge just isn't reading the static pressure and it's an electrical problem....

Gotta start with an accurate static pressure reading and depending on what you get will determine which direction you go next...

Response From nickwarner Top Rated Answer

I next thing I would do is stop now before you break something very expensive. You said you are only reading the low side, so I'm guessing you have the little fake gauge that came with the can and reads red, yellow and green. Thats not going to cut it at all. You need true gauges on high and low side. Did the 134 you've added have leak sealer? If so you just did at least $1000 in damage that didn't need to be done. Its called a Death Kit by those of us in the know. I see no mention of using a vacuum pump to place the system in a vacuum prior to your attempt to charge it and you have not replaced the dessicant either so if you somehow get any 134 in it you will create hydrofluoric acid just from the humidity in the air it comes in contact with. Please read the threads locked at the top of this section before doing anything else but I strongly urge you to proceed no further than the nearest AC shop and get an estimate.

2004 Liberty A/C Not Cold Enough

Showing 2 out of 11 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From rick59 on 2004 Liberty A/C Not Cold Enough

2004, Jeep, Liberty, 3.7L V6, 108K,

Air conditioner not cold enough.

Checked vitals and found the following.

Ambient 88°F

With A/C on high for 10 minutes
Clutch engages and compressor engages without unusual noise. (maybe too quite)
Low Side PSI 63
Hi Side PSI 210
Center Vent Temp 70°F

Turned AC Off and got the following
Hi Side PSI 130
Center Vent Temp 105°F with fan on high

The compressor is obviously doing some work.
Compressor Bad?
Orifice Bad?
Other?

Thanks for any help you can give me.

Thanks
Rick Hawkins

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Rick,

Take vitals with a raised RPM and measure "ambient" temp as the air temp right in front of the grille not the day's temp on the news or elsewhere. High is high enough now and the low of 63 would yield only 70F outputs.

Is the fan for condenser working properly AND is it good an clear of dirt, bugs or whatevers?

Right now need the known incoming temp at what RPM observed. I'm leaning toward condenser not cooling well enough. Misting it with water will drop high pressure normally but if that alone puts all #s in perfect order than we can concentrate on that.

The other maybe is heater is blending in some heat making system work way too hard to blow cooler air.

Any history? Has any refrigerant been added? Those #s depending on other observations could also be an overcharge,

T

Response From rick59

Thanks for the great reply. Went out this evening and found the following.

Engine at Idle
Ambient (right in front of condenser) 85 F
Lo 49
Hi 200
Vent 59

2000 RPM Constant
Ambient 80 F Temp was dropping rapidly with a storm near
Lo 59
Hi 300
Vent 50

Still 2000 RPM and sprayed water on condenser Ambent 78 Lo 59 Hi 275 Vent 54

Condenser fan running entire time and condenser does not look unusually dirty or buggy.
Saturday will check again and try to repeat with ambient more constant.
Also will find second thermometer as I was moving one between vent and ambient.
Turned off car and pressure equalized at 75PSI much lower than yesterday.
Yesterday noticed a leak at the high port but thought cap would seal it
Will see if static pressure goes down more.

Rick hawkins

Response From Hammer Time

I don't really think you have a problem at all. Assuming you had it set on high blower, if you can pull 50 degrees without the car moving in these temperatures, your not going to get any colder than that. Your pressures aren't that far off considering the outside temp. They will come down when it's not so hot out. Your getting all your going to get out of it.

Response From rick59

I'll admit that the temp did read 50 on one reading. Or maybe I misread or wrote down wrong that one reading. In fact there is a problem. Today, rolling down the highway I was getting a vent temperature in the 60's. I really appreciate the help I am getting here. Will get out and get some more numbers when the ambient temperature is stable.
At Idle
At 2000 RPM
At 2000 RPM while misting the condenser
Vent temperature while cruising with A/C full blast then with A/C off.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

IMO while misting condenser which is more effective than air could be should yeild maximum performance. Granted sitting still and revving engine is not real world performance so we take that into consideration.

I think the condenser MIGHT have some issues of dirt hidden perhaps between it and radiator if not seen. I can get all but a couple known fussy cars/vehicles into the 40s for vent temps without too much trouble without driving them. If it will hold 50F that's no terrible but think it can be better.

Take thermo with you for the road and watch the temps change at assorted speeds and conditions - full sun over hot pavement, and cool country roads will bounce performace up an down a bit.

Each day you have multiple factors playing on readings so they can be right for given conditions. Full sun, warm/hot engine, hot pavement, NOT LEVEL, and humidity some of the things that factor in.

We may have totally different conditions by climate. It can get hot and humid here (Eastern MA) but it's not the same as Southern heat and humidity or the dry high heat common to the SW of US.

If super humid the poor evaporator is so soaking wet with condensate (water) it doesn't exchange heat at it's best. I swear a little helps but tons doesn't.

Watch at second highest blower speed and vent temp will drop some as "residence" time for air going thru evap is a bit longer.

There's stuff published as to what is NORMAL but should always be a range as so many factors play into it,

T

Response From rick59 Top Rated Answer

OK
Finally got off the dime and did a complete recharge on the system.
Followed all of the correct procedures, using a very good vacuum pump and high accuracy vacuum guage.
Actually weighed the refrigerant going in and the charge is about 10 grams short on an ~ 650 gram charge. (I don't remember what the exact number was but I charged per the number under the hood)

The system now has the correct charge.
To diagnose the system I connected several temperature probes to the system lines.
The temperature probes were taped down on metal lines and insulated.
Following the system from the compressor.
The discharge line travels about 12 to 18 inches and enters the condenser.
The DISCHARGE PRESSURE port is in this span a few inches from the condenser inlet.
The CONDENSER INLET TEMPERATURE was taken a couple of inches from the condenser inlet.
The CONDENSER OUTLET TEMPERATURE was taken a couple of inches from the condenser outlet.
From here the line travels about 8 inches to the orifice tube.
The SUCTION PRESSURE port is a few inches after the orifice tube.
The SUCTION TEMPERATURE was taken adjacent to the SUCTION PRESSURE port.
From here the line travels (uninsulated) about 2.5 feet to the evaporator inlet.
The line exits the evaporator and goes directly into the suction accumulator.
The line out of the suction accumulator travels about 12-18 inches to the compressor.
The EVAPORATOR OUTLET TEMPERATURE was taken just after the suction accumulator.
The following are the readings taken after the recharge.
-At Idle
-Fan on high
-System running for 10 minutes or more
-Several sets of readings taken and remained constant.

DISCHARGE PRESSURE 225 psi

CONDENSER INLET TEMPERATURE 171°F (About 32° Superheat)

CONDENSER OUTLET TEMPERATURE 120°F (Good heat rejection across condenser)

SUCTION PRESSURE 64 psi (This is too high right?)

SUCTION TEMPERATURE 71°F (Chart says says PSI should be 71 so maybe slight superheat here but maybe
temp and/or pressure gage slightly off)

EVAPORATOR OUTLET TEMPERATURE 102°F (This shows that the evaporator is absorbing heat)

CENTER VENT TEMPERATURE 76°F (My Plymouth van was making 62° immediately prior in the same ambient conditions.)

AMBIENT TEMP DIRECTLY IN FRONT OF THE CONDENSER 93°F 
Later I went out and took temperatures in three places.

  1. Directly after the evaporator (which is directly before the accumulator)
  2. Directly after the accumulator
  3. Directly before the compressor

This showed about a 10°F rise in this span which may indicate that the refrigerant is leaving the evaporator as a gas and picking up superheat along the way to the compressor.
The compressor is quiet and doesn’t seem to make excess noise.

Sure would like to know for sure what is wrong with the system so I can replace the right thing the first time.


For what it's worth,
This system is somewhat different from my Plymouth Van which is as follows.
The compressor outlet goes into the condenser
From the condenser the line goes into some kind of small vessel. Possibly a drier.
From there the line goes into a TX valve which is directly before the evaporator. The high pressure port is located in this line after the condenser and before the TX valve.
The line then goes directly to the compressor with no accumulator. The suction port is in this span between the evaporator and the compressor.

Response From Hammer Time

OK, I just have one question for you.............

Are you an engineer by trade?

Response From rick59

Not Exactly, Have a 2 year associates degree in mechanical engineering but currently work as a lab technician.

Thanks for the help I have received here. I truly apreciate all who have taken the time to help.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I'm good and confused as to what the current knowns are. Proper performance is the objective and will vary based on an algorithm of data, pressures, temps and know accuracy!

****************
al·go·rithm (āl'gə-rĭ th 'əm)
n. A step-by-step problem-solving procedure, especially an established, recursive computational procedure for solving a problem in a finite number of steps.

****************

Now with known weight of charge thought to be correct the #s don't add up but so many factors are involved you won't get exactly the same results based on several factors.

Now we seem to have sketchy belief of accuracy of gauges and I don't know how you recovered refrigerant and if refrigerant is pure. Air, even some from unpurged lines will throw the exact knowns off. Air doesn't condense to a liquid so doesn't evaporate. {yes it can but at some insane 1,000s of PSI so forget that}

*Don't compare one car to another. Too many variables color, glass exposure to sun and tons more. Even if parked at an angle it can change performance.

*When thermos or gauges are in doubt compare them with known accurate ones.

*Refrigerant must be known pure or all bets are off. When new it should less than .0010% !! It goes downhill from there and performance is compromised.

*Taping a temp probe to a line and even insulating it: Nice idea but can't trust that or see how well that was done. Infrared touchless thermometers just tell you instantly. Worth the $20 to get a small one or go for higher end stuff.

________________________

There may not have been a problem as Hammer mentioned back several posts. This thread is long and now hard for me to know right where this is right now. I suggest a new thread condensed with knowns and the observations when taken. About always, the output temp performance we seek will be when you are driving the vehicle in real world conditions not while sitting still working on it,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Having puter problems but working on a real old wreck of one while it lasts and get other taken care of so if I,m not fast to reply I'm without puter.

OK - Static is just that - it would read the same with 2 oz or a pound too full. It's only relevant that it has enough pressure to show it should be able to try then about done with that.

Your pressure are all too high suggesting an overcharge. How did it behave when you misted down condenser with water? If that made every # perfect for the temp there's an airflow or heat exchange problem with the condenser.

If there's ever been a chance this thing has been overcharged I'd have it reclaimed and charge with specified amount EXACTLY as that's really the only way to know how much is in there. Gauges are a great diagnostic tool and when all is well you leave things alone. They can't tell but rather suggest where the problem area is likely. Both pressures too high is consistent with you output temps.

Side note: Neat thermos I use is the cheap automotive or household WIRED in/out thermometer. They are fast and you can just place the wire end in a duct and bring the main unit out and switch to see both temps without jumping thru hoops. I usually use two and place on on dash so I can see it. No joke - on sale they are like $5 - $10 bucks not on sale! I have the expensive ones and like those things better!

T