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I never said 0.5kg of oil
I said 0.5kg of gas
all oil has been lost due to hose blowing
and no I do it myself since I have the equipment gas and spare compressors
ps. ford probe 1993 2500cc converted to r134a

This system should have been factory with R134, not converted. 93 was the conversion year and Alldata says this came with R134. It makes a big difference in the refrigerant charge. Thew OE R134 charge is 28 ounces but if it was retro-ed from R12, you would use 20% less.

alldata is complety wrong
93 was r12 and 94 was the conversion year to r134a


so when pulling vacuum not all oil will be out?

OH really? You sure about that?
You'd better check your info because you are the one that is wrong. 93 was a mixed year.

Your question about vacuum pulling oil out tells me you shouldn't be fixing this at all. Vacuum doesn't pull anything out but air.

yes I am 100% sure 93 was r12 and 94 was the turnover year


funny all these profesionals, the last time I brought him to a professional they converted him then within a month it was empty again
this time it was the condenser, after buying a new condenser and replacing him I found the "professional didn't tighten the new high side r12 to r134 converter properly" thus loosing my charge and letting me buy and fit a new condenser
so no thank you I will do it myself, and try to learn as much as possible

If you think there were no 93 vehicles using R134 from the factory, you are just an idiot.
It's pretty apparent that you think you know more than us and you don't need any help so we'll close this now.

HT - 93........... See PM **********************

I'd say around 2 to 3 oz of PAG 46. Not all the oil in the system is going to come out. You'll still have some trapped in other parts of the system. When you get it back together and running check your high side pressure and make sure it isn't too high.

A sticker should state what the charge is underhood or could look it up if you know what year this unless it's a secret!


Oil added for something like that depends totally on "educated guessing." That would be based on any history of oil charged prior to this, how fast hose blew and was A/C even running at the time plus what mess it might have made if all at once from working properly. It would still be a guess but could get close enough.


For the refrigerant I list 40oz if it was OE R-12 or 28oz if OE R-134a. If converted to 134a would need to know which oil was used.


Sorry to come on abruptly with this but seems you don't have a clue and many don't so it's NOT a DIY project. The hose might have been easy that's all - the charge up should be sent out IMO still,


T

And this is why AC is not a DIY job. It requires knowledge and experience during the process to estimate how much oil has been lost. You don't even state what components were replaced. That has a lot to do with how much oil may have been lost.

Also, every question here needs to start with year, make, model and engine size.

With HT also. First of all if conversion is correct .5 Kg (Kilograms) by weight is more than the whole system charge of oil! It would fail instantly with damage if you added that much.


Not DIY stuff sport. You need to either really have a good clue of how much oil was lost or start from zero and add specified amount from that or you don't know.


Just that to figure takes a lot of educated guessing if situation is known for a repair which you didn't state nor what year.


Take it to a pro stating what you did and how much you might have measured lost and see if they are willing to guess or flush it all out and start over and you wont like the cost of that,


T

Thanks for quick reply. I checked for vacuum leaks already except for booster. I will check that in morning. This van only has pcv valve, no EGR. I replaced timing chain 10.000 miles ago. Distributor seems tight. Oil has been changed every 3000 miles since new. I think it smoothed out a little under load. Again this problem is intermittent. IT was almost back to normal before it got really bad.
Mike

For the booster, just plug it off at the source and see how it behaves - duh - you won't have power brakes for that test so use judgement.

Vacuum testing could be real helpful and the canceling of plugs one at a time.

What I was looking for with asking if it smoothed out with load is if this is vacuum or intake related at all AND then the carb under load goes off of idle mixtures to intermediate and on to WOT mode. Sometimes cleaning out thru the idle mix screws can help - just put those back where they were.

EGRs can crust up. Hard to just know by looking at them and unplugging the vacuum line isn't the test. You should be able to stall it by hand by pulling up on the diaphragm. If you can get it clean - off vehicle - then just plugging the vaccum line takes it out of the diag for now.

Valve springs have been an issue for me and elusive to target. Weak or cracked ones may idle ok, compression test ok but lose it under load. Vacuum test and watch the needle bounce at various loads is very informative - a lost tool for diagnosis that was key in my day. The tool never far was a pistol type vacuum pump and gauge I wore out a couple times for all kinds of tests and uses. I'll post a pic of one if I can find it - great thing to own in any tool collection.

For now test what you can and try to figure if this is a general roughness or if selecting a cylinder or two. You can swap plugs and wires if a cylinder is isolated to see if problems follow cylinder or parts.

Any other clues? Behaviors when cold, hot, wet, load etc?

T

Tried spraying idle screws holes with carb cleaner, no help. I noticed one more vacuum line going to choke pull-off, I checked pull-off diaphram with vac pump, it was bad so I capped off the fitting at carb base. This helped alot! It now will idle at about 900 rpm, but still rough, below that it dies. I tried pulling plug wires one at time. It was equally rough on each cylinder. I drove it. Its smooth under load and has lots of power. Any more Ideas? At least its drivable now. thanks for your help.
Mike

Some ideas: Vacuum leaks - even check out brake booster and line. Spray carb cleaner at EGR, intake manifold, vacuum lines, carb base etc - carefully as hot spots could flash. Change in idle for better or worse doing that marks a trouble spot.

EGR pintle may be dirty - try cleaning it off vehicle. Check timing chain lash. Can be done looking at dist rotor and turning crank with socket back and forth - no more than 5 degrees allowed and if an original the plastic cam gear is toast from age alone.

Distributor bearing wear possible. Sometimes you can tell with a dwell tach at different speeds dwell reading may flutuate wildly - disregard the dwell # just the fluctuation.

Set fast idle cam on first step so it can stay running and pull or cancel one plug at a time for even RPM drop. Check out any cylinder not like the others.

Does it smooth out under moderate load?

Lots of possibilities so just start checking what you can,

T

check the MAP sensor, and check the intake gasket. spray a little carb cleaner around intake gasket with car running to see if the idle goes up or down. you should be able to hear the change while you are spraying around the intake gasket.

What is the MAP sensor. Mass Airflow? Thanks for your quick reply!

it is mass air pressure sensor. it is usually a small black rectangular box with 2 vacuum ports and maybe a connector. it works with the air temperature outside received by the sensor you have just replaced. it may be on the back fire wall in a "pocket" or indentation in fire wall. it is held on with two screws. it is an emissions device and can effect the proper workings of the motor

Is there a proper way to check this sensor, or do I just replace it? If this is bad, wouldn't it cause the check engine light to come on?

there is no real way that i know to check. you have taken the right course so far. the check engine light would not come on. it only comes on for major emission problems or computer issues. the sensor has different ports and it would be very hard to pinpoint what port effects what in the system. the sensor is between about $20-$30 +/-. it is probably better to spend the cash than to drive yourself crazy trying to figure out whether you want to send it to a mechanic or the junkyard.

Cool, I don't have a problem spending that small an amount of cash to try to fix the problem. It's been anoying me for the better part of 4 months now! Thanks for your help!

no problem we are a ford family.

After doing some searching (Haynes Manual etc), I don't think my Escort has a MAP sensor. Does this sound right?

Your right crimp111 this vehicle does not use a MAP sensor the MAF has taken its place.
I’m not sure but I think the sensor that otbmonkeyboy is talking about is the EGR pressure differential sensor only because he’s talking about two hoses going to it. If so I doubt it would be causing the problem; plus these things will throw a code just by looking at them the wrong way.
I would get a voltmeter connected to the TPS return signal wire by back-probing the connector and then move the throttle from closed to wide open. Watching the voltmeter for a smooth consistent increase in voltage. At closed throttle you should see approximately .5 (1/2) of a volt and at wide-open 4.5 volts.
If while your moving the throttle you see a jump in voltage or a drastic change then you may have found the problem.
Dan.

Ok, I'll test the TPS. Thanks much for everyone's help! I've gotten more help in one night than in 2 weeks on any other forum!!!
Greg

Ok, so I checked the TPS and it seemed to operate ok, but since a new one was only $17, I went ahead and replaced it. It didn't make any difference at all. I've still got the same hesitations as before. Any other ideas?

You said earlier that you cleaned the Mass Airflow Sensor. If you cleaned it with carburetor cleaner, that may have caused more harm than good. Let the engine idle and tap the mass airflow sensor gently. You can also shake the air duct the sensor is mounted in. If the RPM goes erratic and or the engine stalls, replace the Mass Airflow Sensor.

Steve

Cleaning it didn't make any difference either way, it ran the same after I cleaned it as it did before.

Today, I pulled the air cleaner apart while the engine was running and it started idling really rough. I didn't know if it had something to do with having more air and maybe it was already running lean or if this was a normal occurence. I'll try shaking it and tapping on it to see if it does anything.
Thanks for your help
Greg

Ok, so I shook and tapped the MAF sensor housing and it did make a difference in the idle, it dropped way down and then leveled back out.

I also took the fuel pressure regulator out and 1 of the 2 o-rings on the end of it are broken. They are on a plug that fits into a hole on the fuel rail, one o-ring above the other, and the bottom one was broken. I removed it and put it back in. It still seals ok with the one, but I wonder if any of the peices from the broken one may have gotten lodged in an injector.

Also, I tried running it without the air cleaner and it runs horrible! I can't hardly take off, when I press the accelerator it just doesn't go. It spits and sputters at idle and dies sometimes. Once I get it going and get the rpms above 2000 it runs ok. After driving on the highway, I stopped at a light and the revs stuck at 2000 for about 20 seconds, then dropped to almost nothing and it eventually died. Does this sound like the MAF sensor? How can I check it? I don't want to blow $95 on a new one if thats not the problem!

The only accurate way to check the MAF sensor is with a scan tool looking at the grams per mile on the datastream. The reason I told you to tap and shake it is to see if the MAF was subject to outside vibrations causing false readings. If you tapped it and shook it with the air cleaner assembly fully intact and the engine responded, replace the MAF sensor, cut and dry. That proves that the road vibrations and engine vibrations are causing it to give the PCM faulty information which the computer will try to compensate for.

Steve

I replaced the MAF sensor and I've still got the same problem. After I installed the MAF sensor I drove for 20 or 30 miles and the Service Engine Soon light came on, checked it and it has stored an Insufficient EGR Flow code. Any other ideas?

I had forgotten to plug the EGR valve back up after checking for vaccum leaks. Plugged it back up, pulled the battery cable and the CEL didn't come back on. Any other ideas on the hesitation? What about the O2 sensor? The motor has 115,000 miles on it and I don't know if it has ever been changed. One other thing. When I had the air filter out of it and it was running really worse, I noticed the shift light stayed on most of the time, could this indicate a vaccum problem, maybe low compression? I'm thinking it's running lean since taking the air filter out made it worse. I'm grasping for straws now.

This is being a pill for you! Check manifold vacuum and it could vary by the altitude you are at but at idle should read about 18Hg.

Many engines won't run well with the air cleaner not installed so that's inconclusive to anything. Keep at it. By all means check the EGR that its pintle moves in and out and isn't to crusty with carbor build up like Steve suggested. You will need a new gasket for it, T

Cool, I'll check the manifold vaccum. Thanks for your help!

MAP sensors are monitoring the state of manifold vacuum in the engine which tells the car what to do with timing and fuel delivery. They may have integrated it with another device for you car but it's mandatory for the car to know that information.

It may be called something else in some cars. Intake manifold vacuum also called pressure, is key for the car to make adjustments for proper performance. They have needed this info since about forever whether mechanical or electronic. With emissions being a big concern they convert the info into an electronic devise to tell the computer. Even a vacuum leak to it which may go from a rubber elbow into what looks like wire has to be intact and the plastic line if applicable does get brittle and the rubber elbows can get splits and be the problem. Takes a hard look and if you find something it can be replaced with just high quality vacuum line and forget the plastic or splice it if you find something, T