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The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • Cardone
    Cardone
  • Dorman
    Dorman
  • Standard Ignition
    Standard Ignition

Best Selling Genuine Ford Vacuum Pumps

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Cardone, Dorman
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Ford Replacement Vacuum Pump Parts

Cardone
1984 Ford E-250 Econoline Club Wagon Vacuum Pump 8 Cyl 6.9L Cardone - New Vacuum Pump

P311-41D07B6    90-1006  New

E4TZ2A451A

Qty:
98.75
Cardone Vacuum Pump
  • New Vacuum Pump
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • Designed For Easy Installation
      • Engineered To Meet Or Exceed O.e.m.performance
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function
      • Units Are Tested 100% To Ensure They Are Leak-free And Meet Vacuum Performance Standards
  • CARDONE New Vacuum Pumps are backed by CARDONE Engineered Technology, which ensures that all CARDONE Select New Vacuum Pumps meet or exceed O.E. form, fit and function. CARDONE Technology is based on over 40 years of reverse-engineering expertise, where original design weaknesses are identified and corrected, resulting in premium-quality, brand-new parts you can rely on. All units adhere to strict S.A.E. specifications and are 100% tested to ensure reliable, long-lasting performance.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Block Engine CID CC
1984 - Ford E-250 Econoline Club Wagon DIESEL V 8 Cyl 6.9L 420 -
Cardone
2002 Ford E-450 Econoline Super Duty Vacuum Pump 8 Cyl 7.3L Cardone - New Vacuum Pump

P311-0D8D460    90-1024  New

F6TZ2A451AA

Qty:
94.76
Cardone Vacuum Pump
  • with Mechanical Pump Supplied without Pulley
  • New Vacuum Pump
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • Designed For Easy Installation
      • Engineered To Meet Or Exceed O.e.m.performance
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function
      • Units Are Tested 100% To Ensure They Are Leak-free And Meet Vacuum Performance Standards
  • CARDONE New Vacuum Pumps are backed by CARDONE Engineered Technology, which ensures that all CARDONE Select New Vacuum Pumps meet or exceed O.E. form, fit and function. CARDONE Technology is based on over 40 years of reverse-engineering expertise, where original design weaknesses are identified and corrected, resulting in premium-quality, brand-new parts you can rely on. All units adhere to strict S.A.E. specifications and are 100% tested to ensure reliable, long-lasting performance.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Block Engine CID CC
2002 - Ford E-450 Econoline Super Duty DIESEL V 8 Cyl 7.3L 445 -
Cardone
1992 Ford F Super Duty Vacuum Pump Cardone - New Vacuum Pump

P311-41D07B6    90-1006  New

E4TZ2A451A

Qty:
98.75
Cardone Vacuum Pump
  • Before 03/1992
  • New Vacuum Pump
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • Designed For Easy Installation
      • Engineered To Meet Or Exceed O.e.m.performance
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function
      • Units Are Tested 100% To Ensure They Are Leak-free And Meet Vacuum Performance Standards
  • CARDONE New Vacuum Pumps are backed by CARDONE Engineered Technology, which ensures that all CARDONE Select New Vacuum Pumps meet or exceed O.E. form, fit and function. CARDONE Technology is based on over 40 years of reverse-engineering expertise, where original design weaknesses are identified and corrected, resulting in premium-quality, brand-new parts you can rely on. All units adhere to strict S.A.E. specifications and are 100% tested to ensure reliable, long-lasting performance.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type
1992 - Ford F Super Duty DIESEL
Cardone
1995 Ford F-250 Vacuum Pump Cardone - New Vacuum Pump

P311-1CC59C7    90-1008  New

F4TZ2A451A

Qty:
100.61
Cardone Vacuum Pump
  • New Vacuum Pump
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • Designed For Easy Installation
      • Engineered To Meet Or Exceed O.e.m.performance
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function
      • Units Are Tested 100% To Ensure They Are Leak-free And Meet Vacuum Performance Standards
  • CARDONE New Vacuum Pumps are backed by CARDONE Engineered Technology, which ensures that all CARDONE Select New Vacuum Pumps meet or exceed O.E. form, fit and function. CARDONE Technology is based on over 40 years of reverse-engineering expertise, where original design weaknesses are identified and corrected, resulting in premium-quality, brand-new parts you can rely on. All units adhere to strict S.A.E. specifications and are 100% tested to ensure reliable, long-lasting performance.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Region Fuel Type
1995 - Ford F-250 United States DIESEL
Cardone
1992 Ford F Super Duty Vacuum Pump Cardone - New Vacuum Pump

P311-2A3B404    90-1007  New

F3TZ2A451A

Qty:
106.45
Cardone Vacuum Pump
  • From 03/1992
  • New Vacuum Pump
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • Designed For Easy Installation
      • Engineered To Meet Or Exceed O.e.m.performance
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function
      • Units Are Tested 100% To Ensure They Are Leak-free And Meet Vacuum Performance Standards
  • CARDONE New Vacuum Pumps are backed by CARDONE Engineered Technology, which ensures that all CARDONE Select New Vacuum Pumps meet or exceed O.E. form, fit and function. CARDONE Technology is based on over 40 years of reverse-engineering expertise, where original design weaknesses are identified and corrected, resulting in premium-quality, brand-new parts you can rely on. All units adhere to strict S.A.E. specifications and are 100% tested to ensure reliable, long-lasting performance.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type
1992 - Ford F Super Duty DIESEL
Cardone
1999 Ford Econoline Super Duty Vacuum Pump 8 Cyl 7.3L Cardone - New Vacuum Pump

P311-0D8D460    90-1024  New

F6TZ2A451AA

Qty:
94.76
Cardone Vacuum Pump
  • Supplied without Pulley
  • New Vacuum Pump
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • Designed For Easy Installation
      • Engineered To Meet Or Exceed O.e.m.performance
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function
      • Units Are Tested 100% To Ensure They Are Leak-free And Meet Vacuum Performance Standards
  • CARDONE New Vacuum Pumps are backed by CARDONE Engineered Technology, which ensures that all CARDONE Select New Vacuum Pumps meet or exceed O.E. form, fit and function. CARDONE Technology is based on over 40 years of reverse-engineering expertise, where original design weaknesses are identified and corrected, resulting in premium-quality, brand-new parts you can rely on. All units adhere to strict S.A.E. specifications and are 100% tested to ensure reliable, long-lasting performance.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Block Engine CID CC
1999 - Ford Econoline Super Duty DIESEL V 8 Cyl 7.3L 445 -
Cardone
2010 Ford E-450 Super Duty Vacuum Pump 8 Cyl 6.0L Cardone - Reman. Vacuum Pump

P311-3FAE631    64-1030  Remanufactured

4C2Z2A451AA

Qty:
$7.20 148.75
Cardone Vacuum Pump
  • Remanufactured Vacuum Pump
  • Reman. Vacuum Pump
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% Computer Testing Guarantees Reliable Performance
      • 100% New Check Valves, Diaphragms, O-rings And Seals Prevent Leaks And Ensure Proper Vacuum Required To Efficiently Run Vehicle Accessories
      • Designed For Easy Installation
      • Engineered To Meet Or Exceed O.e.m.performance
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function
  • CARDONE Remanufactured Vacuum Pumps are engineered for quick installation and no comebacks. Each unit is engineered and tested to meet or exceed Original Equipment Manufacturer performance, providing you reliable performance, every time. Original design weaknesses are corrected to make a longer lasting part you and your vehicle can rely on.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Block Engine CID CC
2010 - Ford E-450 Super Duty DIESEL V 8 Cyl 6.0L 363 -
Cardone
1986 Ford E-250 Econoline Club Wagon Vacuum Pump 8 Cyl 6.9L Cardone - Reman. Vacuum Pump

P311-5C6AB93    64-1006  Remanufactured

E4TZ2A451A

Qty:
$5.40 79.63
Cardone Vacuum Pump
  • Remanufactured Vacuum Pump
  • Reman. Vacuum Pump
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% Computer Testing Guarantees Reliable Performance
      • 100% New Check Valves, Diaphragms, O-rings And Seals Prevent Leaks And Ensure Proper Vacuum Required To Efficiently Run Vehicle Accessories
      • Designed For Easy Installation
      • Engineered To Meet Or Exceed O.e.m.performance
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function
  • CARDONE Remanufactured Vacuum Pumps are engineered for quick installation and no comebacks. Each unit is engineered and tested to meet or exceed Original Equipment Manufacturer performance, providing you reliable performance, every time. Original design weaknesses are corrected to make a longer lasting part you and your vehicle can rely on.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Block Engine CID CC
1986 - Ford E-250 Econoline Club Wagon DIESEL V 8 Cyl 6.9L 420 -
Cardone
1998 Ford E-350 Econoline Club Wagon Vacuum Pump 8 Cyl 7.3L Cardone - Reman. Vacuum Pump

P311-5E9BBEB    64-1029  Remanufactured

F6TZ2A451AA

Qty:
$5.40 98.93
Cardone Vacuum Pump
  • Remanufactured Vacuum Pump
  • with Mechanical Pump
  • Reman. Vacuum Pump
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% Computer Testing Guarantees Reliable Performance
      • 100% New Check Valves, Diaphragms, O-rings And Seals Prevent Leaks And Ensure Proper Vacuum Required To Efficiently Run Vehicle Accessories
      • Designed For Easy Installation
      • Engineered To Meet Or Exceed O.e.m.performance
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function
  • CARDONE Remanufactured Vacuum Pumps are engineered for quick installation and no comebacks. Each unit is engineered and tested to meet or exceed Original Equipment Manufacturer performance, providing you reliable performance, every time. Original design weaknesses are corrected to make a longer lasting part you and your vehicle can rely on.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Block Engine CID CC
1998 - Ford E-350 Econoline Club Wagon DIESEL V 8 Cyl 7.3L 445 -
Cardone
1992 Ford F-250 Vacuum Pump 8 Cyl 7.3L Cardone - Reman. Vacuum Pump

P311-5C6AB93    64-1006  Remanufactured

E4TZ2A451A

Qty:
$5.40 79.63
Cardone Vacuum Pump
  • Remanufactured Vacuum Pump
  • Before 03/1992
  • Reman. Vacuum Pump
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% Computer Testing Guarantees Reliable Performance
      • 100% New Check Valves, Diaphragms, O-rings And Seals Prevent Leaks And Ensure Proper Vacuum Required To Efficiently Run Vehicle Accessories
      • Designed For Easy Installation
      • Engineered To Meet Or Exceed O.e.m.performance
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function
  • CARDONE Remanufactured Vacuum Pumps are engineered for quick installation and no comebacks. Each unit is engineered and tested to meet or exceed Original Equipment Manufacturer performance, providing you reliable performance, every time. Original design weaknesses are corrected to make a longer lasting part you and your vehicle can rely on.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Region Fuel Type Block Engine CID CC
1992 - Ford F-250 United States DIESEL V 8 Cyl 7.3L 445 -
Cardone
1993 Ford F-350 Vacuum Pump 8 Cyl 7.3L Cardone - Reman. Vacuum Pump

P311-01EF688    64-1007  Remanufactured

F3TZ2A451A

Qty:
$5.40 79.63
Cardone Vacuum Pump
  • Remanufactured Vacuum Pump
  • Reman. Vacuum Pump
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% Computer Testing Guarantees Reliable Performance
      • 100% New Check Valves, Diaphragms, O-rings And Seals Prevent Leaks And Ensure Proper Vacuum Required To Efficiently Run Vehicle Accessories
      • Designed For Easy Installation
      • Engineered To Meet Or Exceed O.e.m.performance
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function
  • CARDONE Remanufactured Vacuum Pumps are engineered for quick installation and no comebacks. Each unit is engineered and tested to meet or exceed Original Equipment Manufacturer performance, providing you reliable performance, every time. Original design weaknesses are corrected to make a longer lasting part you and your vehicle can rely on.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Region Fuel Type Block Engine CID CC
1993 - Ford F-350 Canada DIESEL V 8 Cyl 7.3L 445 -
Cardone
1992 Ford F-250 Vacuum Pump 8 Cyl 7.3L Cardone - Reman. Vacuum Pump

P311-01EF688    64-1007  Remanufactured

F3TZ2A451A

Qty:
$5.40 79.63
Cardone Vacuum Pump
  • Remanufactured Vacuum Pump
  • From 03/1992
  • Reman. Vacuum Pump
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% Computer Testing Guarantees Reliable Performance
      • 100% New Check Valves, Diaphragms, O-rings And Seals Prevent Leaks And Ensure Proper Vacuum Required To Efficiently Run Vehicle Accessories
      • Designed For Easy Installation
      • Engineered To Meet Or Exceed O.e.m.performance
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function
  • CARDONE Remanufactured Vacuum Pumps are engineered for quick installation and no comebacks. Each unit is engineered and tested to meet or exceed Original Equipment Manufacturer performance, providing you reliable performance, every time. Original design weaknesses are corrected to make a longer lasting part you and your vehicle can rely on.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Region Fuel Type Block Engine CID CC
1992 - Ford F-250 United States DIESEL V 8 Cyl 7.3L 445 -
Cardone
1995 Ford F-250 Vacuum Pump 8 Cyl 7.3L Cardone - Reman. Vacuum Pump

P311-5EF55B6    64-1008  Remanufactured

F4TZ2A451A

Qty:
$5.40 81.19
Cardone Vacuum Pump
  • Remanufactured Vacuum Pump
  • Reman. Vacuum Pump
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% Computer Testing Guarantees Reliable Performance
      • 100% New Check Valves, Diaphragms, O-rings And Seals Prevent Leaks And Ensure Proper Vacuum Required To Efficiently Run Vehicle Accessories
      • Designed For Easy Installation
      • Engineered To Meet Or Exceed O.e.m.performance
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function
  • CARDONE Remanufactured Vacuum Pumps are engineered for quick installation and no comebacks. Each unit is engineered and tested to meet or exceed Original Equipment Manufacturer performance, providing you reliable performance, every time. Original design weaknesses are corrected to make a longer lasting part you and your vehicle can rely on.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Region Fuel Type Block Engine CID CC
1995 - Ford F-250 Canada DIESEL V 8 Cyl 7.3L 445 -
Cardone
1999 Ford E-350 Super Duty Vacuum Pump 8 Cyl 7.3L Cardone - Reman. Vacuum Pump

P311-5E9BBEB    64-1029  Remanufactured

F6TZ2A451AA

Qty:
$5.40 98.93
Cardone Vacuum Pump
  • Remanufactured Vacuum Pump
  • Reman. Vacuum Pump
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% Computer Testing Guarantees Reliable Performance
      • 100% New Check Valves, Diaphragms, O-rings And Seals Prevent Leaks And Ensure Proper Vacuum Required To Efficiently Run Vehicle Accessories
      • Designed For Easy Installation
      • Engineered To Meet Or Exceed O.e.m.performance
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function
  • CARDONE Remanufactured Vacuum Pumps are engineered for quick installation and no comebacks. Each unit is engineered and tested to meet or exceed Original Equipment Manufacturer performance, providing you reliable performance, every time. Original design weaknesses are corrected to make a longer lasting part you and your vehicle can rely on.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Block Engine CID CC
1999 - Ford E-350 Super Duty DIESEL V 8 Cyl 7.3L 445 -
Dorman
1991 Ford E-350 Econoline Club Wagon Vacuum Pump 8 Cyl 7.3L Dorman

P311-3659FF6    W0133-1700820  New

Qty:
168.55
Dorman Vacuum Pump
  • ; Belt Driven Vacuum Pump
  • Front
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1991 - Ford E-350 Econoline Club Wagon V 8 Cyl 7.3L 445 -
Dorman
1992 Ford E-350 Econoline Club Wagon Vacuum Pump 8 Cyl 7.3L Dorman

P311-3659FF6    W0133-1700820  New

Qty:
168.55
Dorman Vacuum Pump
  • ; Production: -03/31/1992, Belt Driven Vacuum Pump
  • Front
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
1992 - Ford E-350 Econoline Club Wagon V 8 Cyl 7.3L 445 - To:03-31-92
Dorman
1991 Ford F Super Duty Vacuum Pump 8 Cyl 7.3L Dorman

P311-3659FF6    W0133-1700820  New

Qty:
168.55
Dorman Vacuum Pump
  • Belt Driven
  • Front
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1991 - Ford F Super Duty V 8 Cyl 7.3L 445 -
Dorman
1992 Ford F-250 Vacuum Pump 8 Cyl 7.3L Dorman

P311-3659FF6    W0133-1700820  New

Qty:
168.55
Dorman Vacuum Pump
  • ; Production: -03/31/1992
  • Belt Driven
  • Front
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
1992 - Ford F-250 V 8 Cyl 7.3L 445 - To:03-31-92
Dorman
1997 Ford F Super Duty Vacuum Pump 8 Cyl 7.3L Dorman

P311-1F9A702    W0133-1701042  New

Qty:
174.83
Dorman Vacuum Pump
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Block Engine CID CC
1997 - Ford F Super Duty XL V 8 Cyl 7.3L 445 -
Dorman
2003 Ford F-350 Super Duty Vacuum Pump 8 Cyl 6.0L Dorman

P311-1F9A702    W0133-1701042  New

Qty:
174.83
Dorman Vacuum Pump
  • ; Belt Driven Vacuum Pump
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Block Engine CID CC
2003 - Ford F-350 Super Duty XLT V 8 Cyl 6.0L 363 -

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Heater and 4x4 issue

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From malbrecht10 on Heater and 4x4 issue

I own a 2003 Ford F250 6.0L diesel with 71,000 miles. The heater is default to the defrost setting even when the switch is on panel or floor. Also, the shift-on-the-fly four wheel drive is not engaging. I was told this was a vacuum pump problem, but the vacuum pump is running. I replaced the pump, and it didn't fix the problem.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

I'm not going to be a ton of help but I'll try with what I understand so far. MVAC controls almost always default to "defroster" ducts when something fails - that's normal by itself. More and more are electrically actuated - you may just look for a vacuumm line entering thru firewall and see if in fact there's vacuum available.

Vac pumped or by natural intake manifold vacuum is still vacuum and probably stored in a container "ball" or "can" of some sort and also have a "check valve" to allow one way only flow and lock it there for some use with engine off.

The two failures together are probably the same issue. See if you can follow vacuum and measure it. Handy to have a hand held vacuum pump and gauge with an assortment of "T" fittings so you can watch what the vacuum is and the pump will apply vaccum to items one by one as a test too and show leakdowns if they exist.

A big enough leak will disable most all vacuum controlled items with vacuum assisted brake booster usually last to give out. Try to pinch off if hoses are in good enough shape to tolerate that and see if you can isolate the area of what I think you'll find is a large leak or total break somewhere. Good luck,

T

Response From malbrecht10

I used a vacuum pump/gauge and found that my hub lock solenoid had a huge leak in it. I replaced the part and can now control the four wheel drive and heater from the cab!

howmuch oil

Showing 2 out of 13 Posts | Show 11 Hidden Posts
Question From speedspeed on howmuch oil

hi
had a leak
has been repaired
will fill him with r134a I think it will need 0.5kg
howmuch oil does need to be added?
ps. its a ford probe
thank you

Response From speedspeed

I never said 0.5kg of oil
I said 0.5kg of gas
all oil has been lost due to hose blowing
and no I do it myself since I have the equipment gas and spare compressors
ps. ford probe 1993 2500cc converted to r134a

Response From Hammer Time

This system should have been factory with R134, not converted. 93 was the conversion year and Alldata says this came with R134. It makes a big difference in the refrigerant charge. Thew OE R134 charge is 28 ounces but if it was retro-ed from R12, you would use 20% less.

Response From speedspeed

alldata is complety wrong
93 was r12 and 94 was the conversion year to r134a


so when pulling vacuum not all oil will be out?

Response From Hammer Time

OH really? You sure about that?
You'd better check your info because you are the one that is wrong. 93 was a mixed year.

Your question about vacuum pulling oil out tells me you shouldn't be fixing this at all. Vacuum doesn't pull anything out but air.

Response From speedspeed

yes I am 100% sure 93 was r12 and 94 was the turnover year


funny all these profesionals, the last time I brought him to a professional they converted him then within a month it was empty again
this time it was the condenser, after buying a new condenser and replacing him I found the "professional didn't tighten the new high side r12 to r134 converter properly" thus loosing my charge and letting me buy and fit a new condenser
so no thank you I will do it myself, and try to learn as much as possible

Response From Hammer Time

If you think there were no 93 vehicles using R134 from the factory, you are just an idiot.
It's pretty apparent that you think you know more than us and you don't need any help so we'll close this now.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

HT - 93........... See PM **********************

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Vacuum pump won't remove oil from the system unless the oil was to boil and turn into a vapor. Don't think that is going to happen.

Response From Discretesignals

I'd say around 2 to 3 oz of PAG 46. Not all the oil in the system is going to come out. You'll still have some trapped in other parts of the system. When you get it back together and running check your high side pressure and make sure it isn't too high.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

A sticker should state what the charge is underhood or could look it up if you know what year this unless it's a secret!


Oil added for something like that depends totally on "educated guessing." That would be based on any history of oil charged prior to this, how fast hose blew and was A/C even running at the time plus what mess it might have made if all at once from working properly. It would still be a guess but could get close enough.


For the refrigerant I list 40oz if it was OE R-12 or 28oz if OE R-134a. If converted to 134a would need to know which oil was used.


Sorry to come on abruptly with this but seems you don't have a clue and many don't so it's NOT a DIY project. The hose might have been easy that's all - the charge up should be sent out IMO still,


T

Response From Hammer Time

And this is why AC is not a DIY job. It requires knowledge and experience during the process to estimate how much oil has been lost. You don't even state what components were replaced. That has a lot to do with how much oil may have been lost.

Also, every question here needs to start with year, make, model and engine size.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

With HT also. First of all if conversion is correct .5 Kg (Kilograms) by weight is more than the whole system charge of oil! It would fail instantly with damage if you added that much.


Not DIY stuff sport. You need to either really have a good clue of how much oil was lost or start from zero and add specified amount from that or you don't know.


Just that to figure takes a lot of educated guessing if situation is known for a repair which you didn't state nor what year.


Take it to a pro stating what you did and how much you might have measured lost and see if they are willing to guess or flush it all out and start over and you wont like the cost of that,


T

1976 Ford Van won't idle

Showing 3 out of 7 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From mike88 on 1976 Ford Van won't idle

I have a 1976 Ford E150 van. 351w 2bbl, auto, standard breakerless ignition. It ran great until a couple of weeks ago when it started running rough, especially at idle, then it got better and ran ok, then worse and now it won't idle at all. Plugs are fairly new and look fine. I pulled carb and looked in float bowl, very clean. Carb was rebuilt 5 years ago. I thought it was bad gas so I ran it off a gas can with fresh gas, no improvement. Van has been very well maintained and has about 145k miles. Any ideas?
Thanks alot, Mike

Response From mike88

Thanks for quick reply. I checked for vacuum leaks already except for booster. I will check that in morning. This van only has pcv valve, no EGR. I replaced timing chain 10.000 miles ago. Distributor seems tight. Oil has been changed every 3000 miles since new. I think it smoothed out a little under load. Again this problem is intermittent. IT was almost back to normal before it got really bad.
Mike

Response From Tom Greenleaf

For the booster, just plug it off at the source and see how it behaves - duh - you won't have power brakes for that test so use judgement.

Vacuum testing could be real helpful and the canceling of plugs one at a time.

What I was looking for with asking if it smoothed out with load is if this is vacuum or intake related at all AND then the carb under load goes off of idle mixtures to intermediate and on to WOT mode. Sometimes cleaning out thru the idle mix screws can help - just put those back where they were.

EGRs can crust up. Hard to just know by looking at them and unplugging the vacuum line isn't the test. You should be able to stall it by hand by pulling up on the diaphragm. If you can get it clean - off vehicle - then just plugging the vaccum line takes it out of the diag for now.

Valve springs have been an issue for me and elusive to target. Weak or cracked ones may idle ok, compression test ok but lose it under load. Vacuum test and watch the needle bounce at various loads is very informative - a lost tool for diagnosis that was key in my day. The tool never far was a pistol type vacuum pump and gauge I wore out a couple times for all kinds of tests and uses. I'll post a pic of one if I can find it - great thing to own in any tool collection.

For now test what you can and try to figure if this is a general roughness or if selecting a cylinder or two. You can swap plugs and wires if a cylinder is isolated to see if problems follow cylinder or parts.

Any other clues? Behaviors when cold, hot, wet, load etc?

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer


Found one! This was for sale on the web but it's exactly what I'm talking about. This has the "T" the pencil head and a check valve to put in line with the gauge. Handy tool for tons of things. Now I need to find, scan or write just how to use it for engine problem diagnosis!

T

Response From mike88

I have a vacuum pump. Its the plastic version but it works ok. Checked the booster and line, no leaks. Also the vac. advance on dist. and vacuum line to trans, all good. Hooked up vac gauge to intake. Its steady at about 17 psi at 1500 rpm, below that it really starts to miss and die. Seems to run ok at higher rpm (2500+) and when I accelerate. I ran out off carb cleaner so I have to run into town (I'm on Big Island in Hawaii) I will try your idle screw hole idea next.
Thanks again, Mike

Response From mike88

Tried spraying idle screws holes with carb cleaner, no help. I noticed one more vacuum line going to choke pull-off, I checked pull-off diaphram with vac pump, it was bad so I capped off the fitting at carb base. This helped alot! It now will idle at about 900 rpm, but still rough, below that it dies. I tried pulling plug wires one at time. It was equally rough on each cylinder. I drove it. Its smooth under load and has lots of power. Any more Ideas? At least its drivable now. thanks for your help.
Mike

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Some ideas: Vacuum leaks - even check out brake booster and line. Spray carb cleaner at EGR, intake manifold, vacuum lines, carb base etc - carefully as hot spots could flash. Change in idle for better or worse doing that marks a trouble spot.

EGR pintle may be dirty - try cleaning it off vehicle. Check timing chain lash. Can be done looking at dist rotor and turning crank with socket back and forth - no more than 5 degrees allowed and if an original the plastic cam gear is toast from age alone.

Distributor bearing wear possible. Sometimes you can tell with a dwell tach at different speeds dwell reading may flutuate wildly - disregard the dwell # just the fluctuation.

Set fast idle cam on first step so it can stay running and pull or cancel one plug at a time for even RPM drop. Check out any cylinder not like the others.

Does it smooth out under moderate load?

Lots of possibilities so just start checking what you can,

T

98 Ford Escort Rough Acceleration

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Question From crimp111 on 98 Ford Escort Rough Acceleration

Hi, thanks in advance for your help. I have a 98 Ford Escort Sport 5 speed manual tranny with approximately 250000 miles. The motor was changed recently and it has 100000 miles on the new(used) engine. I'm having 2 problems that might be related to each other.

1. Idle speed - the idle speed is normal 50% of the time, 900 to 1000rpm, the other 50% it varies from 300rpm to 1500rpm. Most of the time when it goes wacky, it goes up to 1500 and stays there for an hour or less. Sometimes when I let off the gas, the revs seem to bottom out so much that the car does a nose dive for a split second before returning to a normal deceleration.

2. After accelerating above 2000rpm there is a very noticable hesitation, then it continues to accelerate and then hesitates again. It does this every 300 to 500rpms as its accelerating. If I hold the rpms steady, it doesn't hesitate. It seems to consistently hesitate at 2000, 2500, 2700, 3000 and 3300 rpms.

Neither of these problems cause the Check Engine Light to come on and no codes have been stored. Also, it does this whether the engine is warm or cold. It could be a coincidence, but the problem seems to clear up somewhat after unhooking the battery. But comes back within 10 to 15 miles. It seems to be worse when the outside air temperature gets cold.

Here's what I've done so far:
Replaced melted pcv valve housing and hoses
Checked all hoses for vaccum leaks
Replaced plugs
Replaced wires
Ran 3 cans of fuel system cleaner
Replaced the air filter
Cleaned the throttle body
Removed the fuel rail and checked the ends of the injectors for build up
Cleaned the Mass Airflow Sensor
Cleaned the Idle Air Control Valve
Checked for stored codes, none


Everything else seems ok, fuel economy is great, 37mpg and the car runs out on the road nice and smooth. It's just getting up to speed thats an adventure!!! Any help is greatly appreciated.
Greg

Response From otbmonkeyboy

check the MAP sensor, and check the intake gasket. spray a little carb cleaner around intake gasket with car running to see if the idle goes up or down. you should be able to hear the change while you are spraying around the intake gasket.

Response From crimp111

What is the MAP sensor. Mass Airflow? Thanks for your quick reply!

Response From otbmonkeyboy

it is mass air pressure sensor. it is usually a small black rectangular box with 2 vacuum ports and maybe a connector. it works with the air temperature outside received by the sensor you have just replaced. it may be on the back fire wall in a "pocket" or indentation in fire wall. it is held on with two screws. it is an emissions device and can effect the proper workings of the motor

Response From crimp111

Is there a proper way to check this sensor, or do I just replace it? If this is bad, wouldn't it cause the check engine light to come on?

Response From otbmonkeyboy

there is no real way that i know to check. you have taken the right course so far. the check engine light would not come on. it only comes on for major emission problems or computer issues. the sensor has different ports and it would be very hard to pinpoint what port effects what in the system. the sensor is between about $20-$30 +/-. it is probably better to spend the cash than to drive yourself crazy trying to figure out whether you want to send it to a mechanic or the junkyard.

Response From crimp111

Cool, I don't have a problem spending that small an amount of cash to try to fix the problem. It's been anoying me for the better part of 4 months now! Thanks for your help!

Response From otbmonkeyboy

no problem we are a ford family.

Response From crimp111

After doing some searching (Haynes Manual etc), I don't think my Escort has a MAP sensor. Does this sound right?

Response From DanD

Your right crimp111 this vehicle does not use a MAP sensor the MAF has taken its place.
I’m not sure but I think the sensor that otbmonkeyboy is talking about is the EGR pressure differential sensor only because he’s talking about two hoses going to it. If so I doubt it would be causing the problem; plus these things will throw a code just by looking at them the wrong way.
I would get a voltmeter connected to the TPS return signal wire by back-probing the connector and then move the throttle from closed to wide open. Watching the voltmeter for a smooth consistent increase in voltage. At closed throttle you should see approximately .5 (1/2) of a volt and at wide-open 4.5 volts.
If while your moving the throttle you see a jump in voltage or a drastic change then you may have found the problem.
Dan.

Response From crimp111

Ok, I'll test the TPS. Thanks much for everyone's help! I've gotten more help in one night than in 2 weeks on any other forum!!!
Greg

Response From crimp111

Ok, so I checked the TPS and it seemed to operate ok, but since a new one was only $17, I went ahead and replaced it. It didn't make any difference at all. I've still got the same hesitations as before. Any other ideas?

Response From steve01832

You said earlier that you cleaned the Mass Airflow Sensor. If you cleaned it with carburetor cleaner, that may have caused more harm than good. Let the engine idle and tap the mass airflow sensor gently. You can also shake the air duct the sensor is mounted in. If the RPM goes erratic and or the engine stalls, replace the Mass Airflow Sensor.

Steve

Response From crimp111

Cleaning it didn't make any difference either way, it ran the same after I cleaned it as it did before.

Today, I pulled the air cleaner apart while the engine was running and it started idling really rough. I didn't know if it had something to do with having more air and maybe it was already running lean or if this was a normal occurence. I'll try shaking it and tapping on it to see if it does anything.
Thanks for your help
Greg

Response From crimp111

Ok, so I shook and tapped the MAF sensor housing and it did make a difference in the idle, it dropped way down and then leveled back out.

I also took the fuel pressure regulator out and 1 of the 2 o-rings on the end of it are broken. They are on a plug that fits into a hole on the fuel rail, one o-ring above the other, and the bottom one was broken. I removed it and put it back in. It still seals ok with the one, but I wonder if any of the peices from the broken one may have gotten lodged in an injector.

Also, I tried running it without the air cleaner and it runs horrible! I can't hardly take off, when I press the accelerator it just doesn't go. It spits and sputters at idle and dies sometimes. Once I get it going and get the rpms above 2000 it runs ok. After driving on the highway, I stopped at a light and the revs stuck at 2000 for about 20 seconds, then dropped to almost nothing and it eventually died. Does this sound like the MAF sensor? How can I check it? I don't want to blow $95 on a new one if thats not the problem!

Response From steve01832

The only accurate way to check the MAF sensor is with a scan tool looking at the grams per mile on the datastream. The reason I told you to tap and shake it is to see if the MAF was subject to outside vibrations causing false readings. If you tapped it and shook it with the air cleaner assembly fully intact and the engine responded, replace the MAF sensor, cut and dry. That proves that the road vibrations and engine vibrations are causing it to give the PCM faulty information which the computer will try to compensate for.

Steve

Response From crimp111

I replaced the MAF sensor and I've still got the same problem. After I installed the MAF sensor I drove for 20 or 30 miles and the Service Engine Soon light came on, checked it and it has stored an Insufficient EGR Flow code. Any other ideas?

Response From steve01832 Top Rated Answer

Check the EGR to make sure it is closing fully. Remove it and look at the pintle to make sure there is no carbon buildup. If that checks out OK, you may need an EGR solenoid or a DPFE sensor.
If you have a vacuum pump you can test the EGR with the engine idling. Remove the vacuum line and install the vacuum pump to the port. As you start pumping the vacuum pump the EGR should start to open and the engine should idle rough. If you keep pumping the engine should stall. Make sure the EGR valve holds vacuum. When you release the vacuum, the EGR should fully seat closed.

Steve

Response From crimp111

I had forgotten to plug the EGR valve back up after checking for vaccum leaks. Plugged it back up, pulled the battery cable and the CEL didn't come back on. Any other ideas on the hesitation? What about the O2 sensor? The motor has 115,000 miles on it and I don't know if it has ever been changed. One other thing. When I had the air filter out of it and it was running really worse, I noticed the shift light stayed on most of the time, could this indicate a vaccum problem, maybe low compression? I'm thinking it's running lean since taking the air filter out made it worse. I'm grasping for straws now.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

This is being a pill for you! Check manifold vacuum and it could vary by the altitude you are at but at idle should read about 18Hg.

Many engines won't run well with the air cleaner not installed so that's inconclusive to anything. Keep at it. By all means check the EGR that its pintle moves in and out and isn't to crusty with carbor build up like Steve suggested. You will need a new gasket for it, T

Response From crimp111

Cool, I'll check the manifold vaccum. Thanks for your help!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

MAP sensors are monitoring the state of manifold vacuum in the engine which tells the car what to do with timing and fuel delivery. They may have integrated it with another device for you car but it's mandatory for the car to know that information.

It may be called something else in some cars. Intake manifold vacuum also called pressure, is key for the car to make adjustments for proper performance. They have needed this info since about forever whether mechanical or electronic. With emissions being a big concern they convert the info into an electronic devise to tell the computer. Even a vacuum leak to it which may go from a rubber elbow into what looks like wire has to be intact and the plastic line if applicable does get brittle and the rubber elbows can get splits and be the problem. Takes a hard look and if you find something it can be replaced with just high quality vacuum line and forget the plastic or splice it if you find something, T

1985 for f250 diseal engine 2wd

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Question From dog_4003 on 1985 for f250 diseal engine 2wd

i have a 1985 ford f250 it has the 6.9 liter diseal engine. i had a bearing sqeeking on the engine thought it was the altenator put a new one on there now no sqeek. there is some kinda pump that i thought was a smog device pump but apparently thats not what it is. the belt to it hooks to the double pully on the altenator. the pump is located right under (beneath) the altenator it that was the pully sqweeking tht was bad so i just took the belt off. now no sqweeks. but now i have no power breaks and traNSmission willk not shift. what kinda pump is that it must be replaced. the transmission and breAKS worked perfect prier to me taking that belt off. can any one let me know what kinda pump that is. thanks

Response From nickwarner Top Rated Answer

thats your vacuum pump. Diesels have no throttle plate, the only thing you control with the gas pedal is the amount of fuel the injection pump adds. So there is pretty much no vacuum developed like a gas motor will do. You need to get this fixed. Get a new vacuum pump.