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We stock Vacuum Pump parts for most Buick models, including Century, Electra, Enclave, Encore, Estate Wagon, Regal, Riviera, Skyhawk.

Cardone
1985 Buick Electra Vacuum Pump 6 Cyl 3.0L Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Vacuum Pump

P311-3C51E26    64-1000  Remanufactured

26000517

Qty:
$150.43
Cardone Vacuum Pump
  • Remanufactured Vacuum Pump
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Vacuum Pump
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% Computer Testing Guarantees Reliable Performance
      • 100% New Check Valves, Diaphragms, O-rings And Seals Prevent Leaks And Ensure Proper Vacuum Required To Efficiently Run Vehicle Accessories
      • Designed For Easy Installation
      • Engineered To Meet Or Exceed O.e.m.performance
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Vacuum Pumps are engineered for quick installation and no comebacks. Each unit is engineered and tested to meet or exceed Original Equipment Manufacturer performance, providing you reliable performance, every time. Original design weaknesses are corrected to make a longer lasting part you and your vehicle can rely on.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Block Engine CID CC
1985 - Buick Electra GAS V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 -
Cardone
1984 Buick Century Vacuum Pump 6 Cyl 4.3L Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Vacuum Pump

P311-4DDD5B7    64-1021  Remanufactured

7844039

Qty:
$99.98
Cardone Vacuum Pump
  • Remanufactured Vacuum Pump
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Vacuum Pump
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% Computer Testing Guarantees Reliable Performance
      • 100% New Check Valves, Diaphragms, O-rings And Seals Prevent Leaks And Ensure Proper Vacuum Required To Efficiently Run Vehicle Accessories
      • Designed For Easy Installation
      • Engineered To Meet Or Exceed O.e.m.performance
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Vacuum Pumps are engineered for quick installation and no comebacks. Each unit is engineered and tested to meet or exceed Original Equipment Manufacturer performance, providing you reliable performance, every time. Original design weaknesses are corrected to make a longer lasting part you and your vehicle can rely on.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Region Fuel Type Block Engine CID CC
1984 - Buick Century Coupe United States DIESEL V 6 Cyl 4.3L 260 -
Cardone
1985 Buick Electra Vacuum Pump 6 Cyl 4.3L Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Vacuum Pump

P311-2701B14    64-1016  Remanufactured

7846096

Qty:
$18.90 $99.98
Cardone Vacuum Pump
  • Remanufactured Vacuum Pump
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Vacuum Pump
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% Computer Testing Guarantees Reliable Performance
      • 100% New Check Valves, Diaphragms, O-rings And Seals Prevent Leaks And Ensure Proper Vacuum Required To Efficiently Run Vehicle Accessories
      • Designed For Easy Installation
      • Engineered To Meet Or Exceed O.e.m.performance
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Vacuum Pumps are engineered for quick installation and no comebacks. Each unit is engineered and tested to meet or exceed Original Equipment Manufacturer performance, providing you reliable performance, every time. Original design weaknesses are corrected to make a longer lasting part you and your vehicle can rely on.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Block Engine CID CC
1985 - Buick Electra DIESEL V 6 Cyl 4.3L 260 -
Cardone
1981 Buick LeSabre Vacuum Pump 8 Cyl 5.0L Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Vacuum Pump

P311-5276A3F    64-1001  Remanufactured

7839482

Qty:
$98.08
Cardone Vacuum Pump
  • Remanufactured Vacuum Pump
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Vacuum Pump
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% Computer Testing Guarantees Reliable Performance
      • 100% New Check Valves, Diaphragms, O-rings And Seals Prevent Leaks And Ensure Proper Vacuum Required To Efficiently Run Vehicle Accessories
      • Designed For Easy Installation
      • Engineered To Meet Or Exceed O.e.m.performance
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Vacuum Pumps are engineered for quick installation and no comebacks. Each unit is engineered and tested to meet or exceed Original Equipment Manufacturer performance, providing you reliable performance, every time. Original design weaknesses are corrected to make a longer lasting part you and your vehicle can rely on.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Region Fuel Type Block Engine CID CC
1981 - Buick LeSabre Automatic United States GAS V 8 Cyl 5.0L 307 -
Cardone
1983 Buick LeSabre Vacuum Pump 8 Cyl 5.0L Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Vacuum Pump

P311-4BAE9F3    64-1015  Remanufactured

7839488

Qty:
$80.02
Cardone Vacuum Pump
  • Remanufactured Vacuum Pump
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Vacuum Pump
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% Computer Testing Guarantees Reliable Performance
      • 100% New Check Valves, Diaphragms, O-rings And Seals Prevent Leaks And Ensure Proper Vacuum Required To Efficiently Run Vehicle Accessories
      • Designed For Easy Installation
      • Engineered To Meet Or Exceed O.e.m.performance
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Vacuum Pumps are engineered for quick installation and no comebacks. Each unit is engineered and tested to meet or exceed Original Equipment Manufacturer performance, providing you reliable performance, every time. Original design weaknesses are corrected to make a longer lasting part you and your vehicle can rely on.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Region Fuel Type Block Engine CID CC
1983 - Buick LeSabre Canada GAS V 8 Cyl 5.0L 307 -
Cardone
1982 Buick Regal Vacuum Pump 6 Cyl 4.3L Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Vacuum Pump

P311-4C6AA5D    64-1013  Remanufactured

7844040

Qty:
$91.83
Cardone Vacuum Pump
  • Remanufactured Vacuum Pump
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Vacuum Pump
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% Computer Testing Guarantees Reliable Performance
      • 100% New Check Valves, Diaphragms, O-rings And Seals Prevent Leaks And Ensure Proper Vacuum Required To Efficiently Run Vehicle Accessories
      • Designed For Easy Installation
      • Engineered To Meet Or Exceed O.e.m.performance
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Vacuum Pumps are engineered for quick installation and no comebacks. Each unit is engineered and tested to meet or exceed Original Equipment Manufacturer performance, providing you reliable performance, every time. Original design weaknesses are corrected to make a longer lasting part you and your vehicle can rely on.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Block Engine CID CC
1982 - Buick Regal DIESEL V 6 Cyl 4.3L 260 -
Cardone
1983 Buick Riviera Vacuum Pump 6 Cyl 4.1L Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Vacuum Pump

P311-0E756AF    64-1002  Remanufactured

7839485

Qty:
$117.69
Cardone Vacuum Pump
  • Remanufactured Vacuum Pump
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Vacuum Pump
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% Computer Testing Guarantees Reliable Performance
      • 100% New Check Valves, Diaphragms, O-rings And Seals Prevent Leaks And Ensure Proper Vacuum Required To Efficiently Run Vehicle Accessories
      • Designed For Easy Installation
      • Engineered To Meet Or Exceed O.e.m.performance
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Vacuum Pumps are engineered for quick installation and no comebacks. Each unit is engineered and tested to meet or exceed Original Equipment Manufacturer performance, providing you reliable performance, every time. Original design weaknesses are corrected to make a longer lasting part you and your vehicle can rely on.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Block Engine CID CC
1983 - Buick Riviera GAS V 6 Cyl 4.1L 252 -
Cardone
1983 Buick Skyhawk Vacuum Pump 4 Cyl 2.0L Cardone - Reman. A-1 CARDONE Vacuum Pump

P311-326E007    64-1100  Remanufactured

26001881

Qty:
$97.02
Cardone Vacuum Pump
  • Remanufactured Vacuum Pump
  • Reman. A-1 CARDONE Vacuum Pump
  • Product Attributes:
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% Computer Testing Guarantees Reliable Performance
      • 100% New Check Valves, Diaphragms, O-rings And Seals Prevent Leaks And Ensure Proper Vacuum Required To Efficiently Run Vehicle Accessories
      • Designed For Easy Installation
      • Engineered To Meet Or Exceed O.e.m.performance
      • Guaranteed Fit And Function
    • Product Condition: Remanufactured
  • A1 CARDONE Remanufactured Vacuum Pumps are engineered for quick installation and no comebacks. Each unit is engineered and tested to meet or exceed Original Equipment Manufacturer performance, providing you reliable performance, every time. Original design weaknesses are corrected to make a longer lasting part you and your vehicle can rely on.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1983 - Buick Skyhawk L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 -
Hella
2015 Buick Enclave Vacuum Pump Hella - Hella

P311-1BB9DF8    933963711  New

Qty:
$106.06
  • Hella Technologu with Vision OEM - OE Manufacture
  • Hella
Brand: Hella
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2015 - Buick Enclave
Hella
2017 Buick Encore Vacuum Pump 4 Cyl 1.4L Hella - Hella

P311-047257A    009428791  New

Qty:
$121.84
  • Hella Technology with Vision OEM - OE Manufacture
  • Hella
Brand: Hella
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Block Engine CID CC
2017 - Buick Encore Base L 4 Cyl 1.4L 83 1364

Latest Buick Repair and Vacuum Pump Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

99 Buick orifice tube removal

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From comnavguy on 99 Buick orifice tube removal

Is there a secret to removing an orifice tube - without a removal tool? I had a tool and it ran off with my ex-wife or it's hiding behind something, and I want to do this job tonight when it's cool.

Last time I removed one from a GM car I ended up picking it out in pieces using easy-outs and small drills and having to be EXTRA careful not to score the inside of the hose.

Would it help if I took a soldering iron and heated the hose to break the orifice tube loose?

Any tricks???

Response From Hammer Time

Hose? I hope you mean aluminum line.

I usually just grab them with needle nose pliers unless they are stuck and if they are, it's usually too damaged at the point to use the tool anyway. A little heat on the line would probably help. Some silicone spray would help too. just make sure you get it all flushed back out of the pipe.

Response From comnavguy Top Rated Answer

I found the removal tool BEFORE I finished the job. Heat, silicone spray and gental twisting and tugging with the tool got it out. It was pretty clogged. Now with the new tube and dryer, it's fighting our 100 degree heat very well.

How long do you recommend leaving the vacuum pump on before re-charging? AND do you have any tricks for making sure all the moisture is out of the system?

Thanks for everything.

Response From Hammer Time

That question varies dramatically depending on how much moisture is in the system. You're usually pretty safe with an hour provided the pump is capable of pulling a full vacuum. They say the only true way to know is to use a very high tech vacuum gauge that can read vacuum out 3 decimal points beyond the whole number. It's a confusing thing that requires a very long explanation to even understand but the dryer the system gets, the deeper the vacuum it pulls but you're reading in very tiny increments.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just a comment on moisture out/vacuum: Water (as vapor) is in air. It rains and nobody sprayed it up there The magic is that water boils off to vapor that the vacuum will remove and boils at different temps based on pressure. We basically are living in 14.7 PSI which we think of as zero but not. So now if that # is lowered the water boils incrementally at lower and lower temps. That boiling point gets lower by the most minute fraction of measured vacuum.

A warm engine compartment should help expedite that. Whole perfect vacuum can be lost just removing hoses or the switch to charging from the vacuum to adding refrigerant. The desiccant is there to cover minute flaws but limited.

Off on my own opinion: I hear of folks leaving pumps on for ages after the max vacuum is achieved?? How much more from nothing are you going to get I ask? Once full vacuum then if it holds is evidence that nothing more is boiling off.

In short, the less moisture or air the better the results,

T

Response From Hammer Time

OK, here's the technical data

Complete moisture evaporation is achieved at between 300 and 500 microns

Anything below 200 microns will begin to evaporate the PAG oil



'04 Rendezvous Steering pump replacement

Showing 2 out of 12 Posts | Show 10 Hidden Posts
Question From mdevour on '04 Rendezvous Steering pump replacement

'04 Buick Rendezvous, 3.4 liter, front-wheel-drive, abs, traction control.

Power steering pump is leaking: won't hold fluid, passenger side of engine drenched from top down.

I'm trying to replace it, but don't have a manual. Chilton and Haynes don't even print one for the Rendezvous/Aztec, and the OEM book is beyond the owner's budget.

I've got the three mounting bolts out and the little plastic guard with the belt routing on it removed.

It's going to be tough getting the fitting and hose off...

To begin with, what is the fitting wrench size for the high pressure line? It seems to be 16 mm, which is missing from my set!

What else does the service procedure have you remove to replace the power steering pump?

It looks like it'd help to move the fuse block out of the way and remove the washer fluid resevoir. The one time I ever tried to unmount the fuse block on this vehicle I couldn't find all the fasteners and figured out some other way to do the job. Exactly how many are there and where are they?

And, please, I hope like heck I'm not going to have to remove the water pump as well? The front bolt seems to go through an ear on the water pump housing. I THINK it will slip out from behind it okay, but let me know if not.

Once the pump is in I'll make sure everything is sealed and bled. If there are any other problems, I'll deal with them then.

Is there anything else I should be thinking about?

Thank you.

Mike

Response From Hammer Time

You don't need to remove the fuse box. Just loosen the line clamp on the front of the engine which will give you some movement in the pump and them remove the lines.

Response From mdevour

By the "front" of the engine, you mean the passenger side end?

I can see a spring metal clip lower down, and pull the lines out of it. The pump moves around a little bit already, completely loose, but the attached lines run into brackets for the alternator and an idler pulley, stopping it from doing more than rattling around a little bit in place. I don't see any other clamp, yet. Can't pull the pump upwards without the lines hitting stuff. Can't pull the pump away from the engine because it's behind a piece of the water pump housing at the forward edge.

Can you be a little more specific where this clamp should be?

Thanks,

Mike

Response From Hammer Time

I know everything that is in the way. Disconnect the lines and it will come out.

Response From mdevour

Getting the fitting off and disconnecting the hose is the point. Getting access to DO those things is the problem.

Tomorrow I go and buy a 16mm flare nut wrench to complete my set. Then I will try one more time to get a wrench on the nut.

Meanwhile, if you will be so kind, please consider the merits of my idea of removing the washer fluid tank so I can get the job done. It doesn't harm you, me, or the vehicle if I spend an extra couple of hours doing the job. I'm not on the clock here, but I WOULD like to get the job done before Thursday of this week, please. In which case, if I still can't get the nut off with the 16 mm fitting wrench, I will need to move the fuse block, and remove the cross-brace and washer fluid bottle to finally gain access.

I will need help un-mounting and moving the fuse block, since the last time I tried I couldn't find all of the fasteners, or something was preventing it from letting go of it's mounts.

Thank you.

Mike

Response From Hammer Time

You do it any way you want but I've done a number of these and removing the line is not that hard if you unclamp it from the block.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

mdevour : Side note on tools. Metric sets frequently will lack 5.5mm, 16mm and 18mm. Both sockets and wrench sets so you do buy those if you want the whole real set - lousy game they play. FYI - there are NO SAE sizes that work for 16mm or 18mm but do for 5.5mm = 7/32, 8mm = 5/16th and 19mm = 3/4. That ends there.


HT said this doesn't require it for this and I believe that. Only point is that tools and sizes are a wild game usually needing two of each size and sometimes short, long, 6, 12 point, flare nut sizes of each. Doesn't make it easy for assorted things that would be routine if you had them all to get to one silly clip properly,


T

Response From mdevour

Thank you Tom. Yep, I just had to "complete" the set of flare nut wrenches I bought the other day by buying a 16/18mm.

I finally succeeded in actually getting the wrench ON the fitting. However, the only orientation of the wrench that allows that does not allow me to actually turn the nut. Flip it to go for the next 15 degrees? Sorry, no chance. Too close to the washer bottle.

I suppose I can take a grinder to it and remove the other end of the wrench to make it shorter...

But I'd STILL just as soon take the time to move the fuse block and take out the washer bottle.

HT mentioned that there are supposed to be a metal clip (which I found easily) and seemed to suggest there was another clamp of some sort holding the lines, and releasing them should allow the pump to move enough for better access. I asked for more detail on the location of that second clamp, but with no reply yet. Perhaps I'm misunderstanding him.

I'm about to start working on the fuse block. If I get stuck again and I have to ask for help elsewhere to proceed, I will do so.

Mike

Response From Hammer Time

Just follow the lines down and see where they are clamped

Response From mdevour Top Rated Answer


Just follow the lines down and see where they are clamped

Okay, managed to finish this up today, I hope...

The only clamp is the metal clip. Down below, the hard tubing transitions directly to hoses which are attached to the rack. No other clamping arrangement to be seen.

What finally did the trick was using a 16mm open end wrench rather than a flare nut wrench on the high pressure fitting. This let me tilt the wrench up or down relative to the fitting to find some swing room. With a flare nut wrench I was stuck with only one or two angles, all of which ran into the washer bottle or other obstacles.

While the pump was off, I used a hand vacuum pump to suck as much fluid as possible from the return line, cycling the wheels lock-to-lock while pulling a vacuum.

Swapped the pulley across while on the bench using the custom puller borrowed from the store.

Getting the pump back on was almost as tedious as getting it off. Mating the hose and getting the spring clamp in place being the hardest part. Changed the o-ring on the HP fitting and reconnected it with little difficulty.

Once everything was back together and the reservoir filled, I cycled the wheels and refilled the tank until the level stabilized with the engine off. Then I drew a vacuum and cycled them some more. Finally, running under vacuum seemed to get the last of the bubbles out. Once I relieved the vacuum, what noise there was in the pump quieted down to where it's almost, but not completely silent.

I hope that's good enough!

I have wheel bearing questions next... for another post.

Mike

Response From Hammer Time

Nobody said this stuff was easy. Glad you finally got the best of it.

Closing question now.

Response From Discretesignals

Did you remove the power steering pump pulley? If you remove the pulley, you'll easily be able to unscrew the power steering pressure line fitting. You need a special tool to remove and install the pulley.