802.589.0911 Live Chat With Us

Finish Selecting Your Vehicle to Shop For Your Turn Signal

Choose a Year for your Dodge 's Turn Signal

  • 2004
  • 2003
  • 2002
  • 2001
  • 2000
  • 1999
  • 1998
  • 1997
  • 1996
  • 1995
  • 1994
  • 1992
  • 1991
  • 1990
  • 1989
  • 1988
  • 1987

Shop By Brand

The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • LKQ
    LKQ
  • TYC
    TYC
  • VAIP - Vision Lighting
    VAIP - Vision Lighting

Best Selling Genuine Dodge Turn Signals

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including LKQ, TYC, VAIP - Vision Lighting
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Dodge Replacement Turn Signal Parts

We stock Turn Signal parts for most Dodge models, including Dakota, Durango, Ram 1500, Ram 2500, Ram 3500, Ram 50.

LKQ
1992 Dodge Ram 50 Turn Signal Light Assembly - Front Right LKQ

P311-3A04EC4    MI2531101  New

Qty:
$14.65
LKQ Turn Signal Light Assembly  Front Right
  • Mounted in bumper
  • PASSENGER SIDE FRONT SIGNAL LIGHT ASSEMBLY; IN THE BUMPER
Brand: LKQ
Position: Front Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1992 - Dodge Ram 50 Front Right
LKQ
1992 Dodge Ram 50 Turn Signal Light Assembly - Front Left LKQ

P311-04BCDD8    MI2530101  New

Qty:
$14.65
LKQ Turn Signal Light Assembly  Front Left
  • Mounted in bumper
  • DRIVER SIDE FRONT SIGNAL LIGHT ASSEMBLY; IN THE BUMPER
Brand: LKQ
Position: Front Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1992 - Dodge Ram 50 Front Left
TYC
2002 Dodge Ram 3500 Turn Signal Light Assembly TYC

P311-03A9DE2    W0133-1844007  New

Qty:
$27.62
TYC Turn Signal Light Assembly
  • NSF Certified
  • Right
Brand: TYC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2002 - Dodge Ram 3500
TYC
2002 Dodge Ram 3500 Turn Signal Light Assembly TYC

P311-1C5E52D    W0133-1844008  New

Qty:
$27.62
TYC Turn Signal Light Assembly
  • NSF Certified
  • Left
Brand: TYC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2002 - Dodge Ram 3500
TYC
1997 Dodge Dakota Turn Signal Light Assembly TYC

P311-433054B    W0133-1843775  New

Qty:
$35.95
TYC Turn Signal Light Assembly
  • Production: 08/18/1997-
  • Right
Brand: TYC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1997 - Dodge Dakota Fr:08-18-97
VAIP - Vision Lighting
1998 Dodge Durango Turn Signal Light Assembly VAIP - Vision Lighting

P311-21D1515    W0133-1843775  New

Qty:
$81.69
VAIP - Vision Lighting Turn Signal Light Assembly
  • SAE/DOT Approved
  • Production: 08/18/1997-
  • Right
Brand: VAIP - Vision Lighting
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1998 - Dodge Durango Fr:08-18-97
TYC
1998 Dodge Durango Turn Signal Light Assembly TYC

P311-433054B    W0133-1843775  New

Qty:
$35.95
TYC Turn Signal Light Assembly
  • Production: 08/18/1997-
Brand: TYC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1998 - Dodge Durango Fr:08-18-97
TYC
2004 Dodge Dakota Turn Signal Light Assembly TYC

P311-433054B    W0133-1843775  New

Qty:
$35.95
TYC Turn Signal Light Assembly
Brand: TYC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Dodge Dakota
VAIP - Vision Lighting
2004 Dodge Dakota Turn Signal Light Assembly VAIP - Vision Lighting

P311-21D1515    W0133-1843775  New

Qty:
$81.69
VAIP - Vision Lighting Turn Signal Light Assembly
  • SAE/DOT Approved
  • Right
Brand: VAIP - Vision Lighting
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Dodge Dakota

Latest Dodge Repair and Turn Signal Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Dodge Turn Signal Problem

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From Bishop04 on Dodge Turn Signal Problem

I've got a 2002 Dodge Dakota 4.7L Quad Cab. The problem is that when I put my left turn signal on my hazards come on. I have no problems with right turn signal.
I've had the whole unit replaced a few months ago and that seemed to have work for a little bit but the problem is starting to occur again. Any suggestions on what it could be?

Response From Double J

Is this a manual transmission?.....

IF so , there was a recall for a wiring harness being chafed by the actuation of the clutch pedal...
recall # c35

IF not then my guess would be a faulty multifunction switch...
You said you had a whole unit replaced a month ago....which unit?... the multifunction switch?

If so and that cured it ...I would definitely look into that again......

Response From Bishop04

No, it's an automatic. Yes it was the multifunction switch.

Response From Double J Top Rated Answer

You should still have some kind of warranty on the repair.
If you had it done at a dealer,it could have a 12 month/12k warranty
Some shops will offer that as well...some just a 90 day..

Unless you did it yourself....part should still have a warranty..

Without reading into it...it sure sounds like that the problem...it does control both...

Where was the repair performed?.....

Turn signals and Hazard lights not working 1997 Dodge Intrepid

Showing 8 out of 13 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From fenrus on Turn signals and Hazard lights not working 1997 Dodge Intrepid

I have a 1997 Dodge Intrepid ES 3.5L

Last week the turn signals and hazard lamps quit working.

Thus far, I have checked and replaced both the hazard and turn signal fuses. No change.
I replaced the turn signal/hazard flasher relay...no change.
I even went so far, as to replace the turn signal/hazard combination switch, and again no change.

At this point, I'm afraid it may be a wiring issue.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to troubleshoot that? Or perhaps a reference to check to verify that I'm getting power to the switch?

As far as the switch goes, it controls hi/low headlamps, turn signals, hazard, and windshield wipers. The wiper and headlight hi/low part functions correctly. There are 2 plugs on the back of the switch, 1 for the headlights and wiper controls, and a 2nd plug which controls turn signals and hazards. From what I could see, the harness was tight, wires looked okay, and nothing appeared loose or frayed.

Any suggestions would be appreciated, I really don't want to have to put it in a shop for this.
Thanks,
Scott

Response From fenrus

Update:

I found a 20amp fuse for the hazards (under the hood) blown. This is one I had previously checked and replaced and was intact when I had checked it the other day. So I replaced it again and it instantly blew.
I tested the 10amp fuse inside the car for the turn signals and I got power on both sides of that fuse, so it appears to be ok.

The puzzling part is, hazards not working I can understand (ie blown fuse or short). Turn signals, I’m not sure about. They are obviously getting power as noted by the fuse, but they are not working either. So I’m puzzled as to where this short may be.

Unfortunately, I haven’t found anything that that shows me the wiring diagrams so I can trace it back. So I figure I need to start at the fuse block under the hood and start tracing it back to inside the car.

If anyone has any tips or suggestions, I'd appreciate it.
Thanks,

Response From DanD

The signals also need that power from the under hood fuse to supply the combination flasher unit. One flasher for both turn and hazard lights; this unit is supposedly at the “base of steering column”.
It’ll have five wires going to it; white/black, 2 black, pink and dark blue/pink; try unplugging it and see if the fuse will hold. You may get lucky and just have a shorted flasher unit?
Dan.

Response From fenrus

Thanks for the tip DanD.

I already located the flasher and replaced it. I did however use the wires on the flasher to help me ID the rest of the wires on the car.

After I found the blown fuse, I connected an ohm meter to a ground + dead side of hazard fuse terminal, and it wasn't a "strong" read, but I did get some resistance changes, which indicates a closed circuit somewhere.

I'm starting to probe the wires at each end to see if I can isolate if its on a specific turn-signal line or if it's somewhere more shared, like near the turn signal/hazard switch.


I do have a question for you... if there is a 20amp fuse for the "hazards" which powers the flasher and hazard lights... there is also a 10amp fuse labeled turn signals. I assume its 10amp since it is only powering 2 of the 4 lights used as hazards. I don't quite understand how if they are using common wires and such, how the hazard fuse is blown, and neither hazards nor turn signals work, but the 10amp turn signal fuse is ok and shows power on both sides with a test light. Any idea how that happens or how this circuit is routed?

Response From DanD

The flasher unit is more or less a relay even though this unit is electronic it still uses a low amperage circuit via the flasher to turn on a higher amperage circuit.
So the fuse panels labeling is kind of misleading; I believe both fuses have to be intact for the system (turn or hazards) to work.
Here’s a wiring diagram for the exterior lighting for this car. Hopefully it’ll shed some light on the subject for you; sorry for the pun.
If this fuse blows with everything turned off I would go to the switch next and unplug it. If the fuse will hold with it unplugged; take a fused jumper wire from a power source to the light green Left side light circuit and then to the tan wire right side light circuit. If the jumper wire fuse holds and the lights light; it must be a short to ground in the switch.
Let us know what happens.
Dan.


Response From fenrus

Wow... Thank you so much for the wiring diagram. That will be a huge help in tacking down my problem. I'll let you know what I find.

Thanks!!

Response From fenrus

DanD,
Here's my latest update.

I purchased a box of 20amp fuses and tried the following:

1. Removed flasher, and installed new fuse-- fuse held.
2. Re-installed flasher -- fuse held.
3. Turned ingnition to ON -- fuse held.
4. Tried left turn signal -- signal worked (*gasp*) and fuse held.
5. Tried right turn signal -- signal also worked. (fuse also still holding).
6. Tried hazard switch -- heard this odd rapid clicking noise and things stopped working.

This is where it gets odd. Checked the fuse and the 20amp fuse was still intact.
I removed the 20amp fuse and put a test light on the 20amp fuse terminals and BOTH sides were dead.

So I assume this means there is some issue between this fuse terminal and the battery, perhaps a fusable link.

I just don't quite understand why it is intermittant... unless there is simply a poor connection or partial short. Seems odd that both sides of the turn signals worked, but it died when the turn hazard lights tried to light.

That is where things stand at the moment.

Response From DanD

I would flip the fuse box up side down and have a look at the condition of the wire connection of the white/black wire?
Dan.

Response From fenrus

Yeah, I took that box loose and did a check on the underside of it. I was surprised by 2 things.

1. All the wires underneath looked brand new. No cracks or signs of age or corrosion. They were also pretty-much dust/dirt free.
2. There is a heavy black cable, with a quick disconnect, that provides power for that block, however, the red wire that supplies power to that particular fuse doesn't get its power from the distribution block attached to that fuse box. That red wire immediately enters a large wiring bundle and it quickly disappears towards the front of the vehicle.

I haven't tried to pull anything further apart yet, but right beside the battery, on the driver side, there appears to be a computer looking box, where it appears most of that wiring bundle routes towards.

At this moment, my turn signals are "working", but whenever I hit the hazards, it all dies. Whenever it "dies" both sides of that 20amp fuse are w/o power. I get the feeling that whatever device is providing power up that red wire to the 20amp fuse, is able to sustain the 10amp draw of a turn signal, but not the full 20amp of the hazards. I could be wrong, but that's how it appears.

I'm thinking that I may have 2 seperate issues, probably a short (guessing up near the front corners as there are several wire connectors all hooked into the same circuit that are bunched up and rubbing the body which I assume are for various lighting configurations), and also some breakdown in providing power to the 20amp hazard fuse.

I know I moved a bunch of those wires in the front when I was checking bulbs and putting my test light on terminals to see what had power and what didn't, so I may have moved a wire which may have been in contact w/ the body. However, I never saw any frays or exposed wires.

I think at this point, I need to figure out why the hot side of that 20amp hazard fuse is loosing power. Your thoughts?

Response From DanD Top Rated Answer

Yea your logic is sound and I think you’re right you have to find out why the 20 amp fuse is loosing power after the higher current flow demand is put on the circuit. I’m at home right now but I’ll try and remember to see if I have a power distribution diagram and post it for you.
If I forget rattle my chain. LOL
Dan.

Response From totje202

Having same issue with exact same model of car 97 intrepid checked through and same power draw at engine fuze box just in the midst of tracking down wondering if you found a solution to this issue, just gunna start checking grounds and running through the wiring harness's to see if any noticeable corrosion or short please answer back when you have time. Thank you

Response From Hammer Time

Please read the FORUM RULES before posting. This thread is 6 years old.

Response From totje202

Found the problem what we had was the fuzeable link to the battery post but it was not a burnt out link it was rather a corroded section of the link so we simply changed out the fuzeable links with automotive fuze holders with the appropriate fuzes and soldered the ends with heat shrink