802.589.0911 Live Chat With Us

Buy Discount Toyota Mr2 Spyder Parts

Finish Selecting Your Vehicle

Choose a Year for your Toyota MR2 Spyder

  • 2006
  • 2005
  • 2004
  • 2003
  • 2002
  • 2001
  • 2000

Showing 1 - 10 of 1,590 Products.

Refine Your Search

GBR Fuel Injection
Qty:
$4.06
GBR Fuel Injection Fuel Injector Seal Kit
  • ; Services one injector, includes top & bottom seals.
  • Fuel Injector Seal Kit
  • Product Attributes:
    • Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm - Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
  • GB fuel injector seal kits include the necessary o-rings and seals to properly reseal the injector, which is a recommended practice any time the injector is removed. Each kit services one injector and includes hard to find or previously dealer-only components.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 4
    • Most jobs typically require 4 of this item.
Brand: GBR Fuel Injection
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Toyota MR2 Spyder L 4 Cyl 1.8L - 1794
First Equipment Quality
2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder Wheel Bearing First Equipment Quality

P311-54C643C    W0133-1623041  New

Qty:
$51.51
First Equipment Quality Wheel Bearing
  • ; Production: 12/1999-, No Wheel Seals Used
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2000 - Toyota MR2 Spyder Fr:12-00-99
First Equipment Quality
2002 Toyota MR2 Spyder Wheel Bearing First Equipment Quality

P311-54C643C    W0133-1623041  New

Qty:
$51.51
First Equipment Quality Wheel Bearing
  • ; No Wheel Seals Used
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2002 - Toyota MR2 Spyder
First Equipment Quality
2005 Toyota MR2 Spyder Wheel Bearing First Equipment Quality

P311-54C643C    W0133-1623041  New

Qty:
$51.51
First Equipment Quality Wheel Bearing
  • ; Production: -01/2005, No Wheel Seals Used
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2005 - Toyota MR2 Spyder To:01-00-05
Full
2002 Toyota MR2 Spyder Engine Oil Filter Full

P311-3D0DD2A    W0133-1637559  New

Qty:
$12.71
Full Engine Oil Filter
  • Spin-On
Brand: Full
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2002 - Toyota MR2 Spyder
Full Premium
2002 Toyota MR2 Spyder Engine Oil Filter Full Premium

P311-4FA82F3    W0133-1637559  New

Qty:
$15.99
Full Premium Engine Oil Filter
  • Spin-On
Brand: Full Premium
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2002 - Toyota MR2 Spyder
Full
2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder Engine Oil Filter Full

P311-3D0DD2A    W0133-1637559  New

Qty:
$12.71
Full Engine Oil Filter
  • Spin-On
  • ; Production: 12/1999-
Brand: Full
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2000 - Toyota MR2 Spyder Fr:12-00-99
Full Premium
2000 Toyota MR2 Spyder Engine Oil Filter Full Premium

P311-4FA82F3    W0133-1637559  New

Qty:
$15.99
Full Premium Engine Oil Filter
  • Spin-On
  • ; Production: 12/1999-
Brand: Full Premium
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2000 - Toyota MR2 Spyder Fr:12-00-99
Full
2005 Toyota MR2 Spyder Engine Oil Filter Full

P311-3D0DD2A    W0133-1637559  New

Qty:
$12.71
Full Engine Oil Filter
  • Spin-On
  • ; Production: -01/2005
Brand: Full
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2005 - Toyota MR2 Spyder To:01-00-05
Full Premium
2005 Toyota MR2 Spyder Engine Oil Filter Full Premium

P311-4FA82F3    W0133-1637559  New

Qty:
$15.99
Full Premium Engine Oil Filter
  • Spin-On
  • ; Production: -01/2005
Brand: Full Premium
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2005 - Toyota MR2 Spyder To:01-00-05

Showing 1 - 10 of 1,590 Products.


Latest Toyota Mr2 Spyder Repair Guides & Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

01 MR2 Spyder - Diagnosing Misfire

Showing 8 out of 8 Posts
Question From ltclutter on 01 MR2 Spyder - Diagnosing Misfire

Posted in general troubleshooting cause so many components affect it.

2001 Toyota MR2 Spyder, 1.8L 4 cylinder, 150k-ish miles on car, engine swap about a year and a half ago to a 34k mile engine which would have maybe 48k on it now? Not much more than that.

Ok, so I started getting the random misfire and misfire on cylinder 4 code about a week ago. Always on a cold start, worse at idle, lasts til I get to running temperature. My O2 sensor had been intermittently flagging as bad, so I took this as a sign.

I have:
Replaced all three O2 sensors.
Swapped coils
Replaced sparkplugs (gapped and torqued)
Run half a tank of gas treated with fuel injector cleaner
Compression tested the cylinders, which passed with solid readings all between 190 and 200.

Shortly after replacing the sparkplugs, on my test drive, I got two new error codes. "Power voltage down", which I can't seem to find a whole lot of information on, and a driver side rear wheel speed malfunction, which I am currently chalking up to the misfire randomly robbing me of a quarter of my power and then gaining it back in the middle of a turn. That said, figured I'd list it anyhow because I'm not a fantastic greasemonkey by any stretch of the imagination (please use small words for me), so being wrong on that wouldn't surprise me.

I took my car to highway speed earlier today after babying her into running temp. She held at 65 mph with zero problems. I'm at a loss of what's wrong. I feel like fuel is ruled out if I'm not misfiring constantly, I had money on my compression test failing on cold engine, I don't know what else to check.

Response From Hammer Time

Why would you rule out fuel? Have you verified spark during the misfire?

There is no code that tells you an 0/2 sensor is defective, or any other part for that manner..

Response From ltclutter

In my admittedly limited experience, every fuel issue I've ever had was aggravated by putting a load on the car. If I rev up, it doesn't cause the misfire to become more frequent, if anything, it does the opposite. Was I wrong in ruling it out?

I tested for spark, but now that I think about it, the engine was warm at the time. I will give her a whirl in the morning to make sure she's had plenty of time to cool down and report back. Is there any better way to test than pulling it and grounding it?

Response From Hammer Time

The best way is to use an adjustable spark tester. It's the only way to know you have sufficient spark. It needs to be able to jump a gap of at least 1/2".



Response From ltclutter

Took a bit since it was raining all day yesterday and no garage or cover, but I tested and I think we have our problem.

It sparks. Perfectly. Nice, strong blue. But, it wasn't sparking often. So I pulled the one next to it and tested it. Sparked a whole lot more often.

I can't test for a bad wire myself cause all my wiring is run inside plastic covers, so I'm gonna swing by a shop or two to get estimates on replacing all the wiring running to the coils. Figure if one is frayed, cut, or whatever the others can't be too far behind. I'll update again when I know for sure baby's fixed. Thanks for the help.

Response From Hammer Time

That could mean the spark is arcing somewhere along it's route so if you have a distributor cap and rotor, be sure to change them also.

Response From ltclutter Top Rated Answer

Following up with the resolution.

So, not only was the wiring to the coil adapter cracked, but he found some wire wear all the way up to the ignition. It looks like the guy who had the car before me tried to replace some of the wiring, but instead of actually replacing the wiring, he cut some of it, left the rest, laid all the wiring, and then taped and zip tied everything back into place. There were layers and layers of electrical tape over the wiring.

Was about $415ish for diagnostic, new coil adapter, and two hours of labor. It took him closer to four and a half, but I think he felt bad he didn't have it out by the promise time.

Thanks for the help. If you want anything clarified or pictures or anything let me know.

Response From Hammer Time

Glad to hear you got it resolved.
Closing this now as solved.