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Latest Toyota Corolla Repair Guides & Installation Advice

toyota corolla

Showing 3 out of 4 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From febausa on toyota corolla

Toyota Corolla 1994, the engine was turned off suddenlly after 30 minutes but the engine turned on again when it is cooled

Response From Sidom

Is this a question or a statement?

Response From febausa
Top Rated Answer

This is statement. How fix this problem?

Response From Sidom

Any engine requires 3 things to run. Air/fuel, fire & compression, all at the right time. You need to find out which on you are losing and then check out that system

2006 toyota corolla headlights

Showing 3 out of 6 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From trailerglide on 2006 toyota corolla headlights

can anyone tell me how to ajust the headlights on a 2006 toyota corolla ? one light is higher then the other.

Response From DrElectrics

When you are doing this, drive your car upto a wall with your lights on, so you can see where they need to be adjusted to.

Response From Double J

OH MAN...here you go...remember you asked....lol....at the very end ,you'll see where the adjuster is.....
maybe just give it a turn ..see what happens......unless you got time on your hands...lol..


ADJUSTMENT

  1. VEHICLE PREPARATION FOR HEADLAMP AIM ADJUSTMENT
  1. Prepare the vehicle:
  • Ensure there is no damage or deformation to the body around the headlamps.
  • Fill the fuel tank.
  • Make sure that the oil is filled to the specified level.
  • Make sure that the coolant is filled to the specified level.
  • Inflate the tires to the appropriate pressure.
  • Place the spare tire, tools, and jack in their original position.
  • Unload the trunk.
  • Sit a person of average weight (68 kg, 150 lb ) in the driver's seat.
    1. PREPARATION FOR HEADLAMP AIMING (Using a tester)
    1. Prepare the vehicle for headlamp aim check.
    2. Adjust in accordance with headlamp tester instructions.
    1. PREPARATION FOR HEADLAMP AIMING (Using a screen)
    1. Prepare the vehicle according to the following conditions:
  • Place the vehicle in a location that is dark enough to clearly observe the cutoff line. The cutoff line is a distinct line, below which light from the headlamps can be observed and above which it cannot.
  • Place the vehicle at a 90° angle to the wall.
  • Create a 7.62 m (25 ft) distance between the vehicle and the wall.
  • Place the vehicle on a level surface.
  • Bounce the vehicle up and down to settle the suspension.

  • NOTE: A distance of 7.62 m (25 ft) between the vehicle and the wall is necessary for proper aim adjustment. If unavailable, secure a distance of exactly 3 m (9.84 ft) for check and adjustment. (The target zone will change with the distance so follow the instructions in the illustration.)

    1. Prepare a piece of thick white paper (approximately 2 m (6.6 ft) (height) x 4 m (13.1 ft) (width)) to use as a screen.
    2. Draw a vertical line down the center of screen V line).

    http://library.alldatapro.com/alldata/LIB%7EC41778%7ER0%7EOB0%7EP4R0H%7EN/0/115013665/117254496/117254515/117254517/34853741/34867926/34868471/34868571/120279026/119001855
    1. Set the screen as shown in the illustration. HINT:
  • Stand the screen perpendicular to the ground.
  • Align the V line on the screen with the center of the vehicle.

  • http://library.alldatapro.com/alldata/LIB%7EC41778%7ER0%7EOB0%7EP3R0H%7EN/0/115013665/117254496/117254515/117254517/34853741/34867926/34868471/34868571/120279026/119001856
    1. Draw base lines (H line, V LH, V RH lines) on the screen as shown in the illustration. HINT:
  • The base lines differ for"low-beam inspection" and "high-beam inspection"
  • Follow the same procedures for "high-beam inspection"
  • Mark the headlamp bulb center marks on the screen. If the center mark cannot be observed on the headlamp, use the center of the headlamp bulb or the manufacturer's name marked on the headlamp as the center mark.
    1. H Line (Headlamp height): Draw a horizontal line across the screen so that it passes through the center marks. The H line should be at the same height as the headlamp bulb center marks of the low-beam headlamps.
    2. V LH Line, V RH Line (Center mark position of left-hand (LH) and right-hand (RH) headlamps): Draw two vertical lines so that they intersect the H line at each center mark (aligned with the center of the low-beam headlamp bulbs).
    1. HEADLAMP AIMING INSPECTION
    1. Cover or disconnect the connector of the headlamp on the opposite side to prevent light from the headlamp not being inspected from affecting headlamp aiming inspection. NOTE: Do not keep the headlamp covered for more than 3 minutes . The headlamp lens is made of synthetic resin, and may easily melt or be damaged due to heat. HINT: When checking the aim of the high-beam, cover the low-beam or disconnect the connector.
    2. Start the engine. NOTE: Engine rpm must be 1,500 or more.

    http://library.alldatapro.com/alldata/LIB%7EC41778%7ER0%7EOB0%7EP4R0H%7EN/0/115013665/117254496/117254515/117254517/34853741/34867926/34868471/34868571/120279026/119001857
    1. Turn on the headlamp and make sure that the cutoff line falls within the specified area, as shown in the illustration. HINT:
  • Since the low-beam light and the high-beam light are a unit, if the aim on one is correct, the other should also be correct. However, check both beams just to make sure.
  • Alignment distance is 7.62 m (25 ft) : The cutoff line is 101 mm (3.97 in.) above and below the H line as well as left and right of the V line with low-beam (SAEJ599).
  • Alignment distance is 3 m (9.84 ft) : The cutoff line is 40 mm (1.57 in.) above and below the H line as well as left and right of the V line with low-beam (SAEJ599).
  • Alignment distance is 7.62 m (25 ft) : The cutoff line is 101 mm (3.97 in.) above and below the H line as well as left and right of the V line with high-beam (SAEJ599).
  • Alignment distance is 3 m (9.84 ft) : The cutoff line is 40 mm (1.57 in.) above and below the H line as well as left and right of the V line with high-beam (SAEJ599).
  • Alignment distance is 7.62 m (25 ft) : The cutoff line is 0 mm (0 in.) below the H line with low-beam.
  • Alignment distance is 3 m (9.84 ft) : The cutoff line is 0 mm (0 in.) below the H line with low-beam.

  • http://library.alldatapro.com/alldata/LIB%7EC41778%7ER0%7EOB0%7EP3R0H%7EN/0/115013665/117254496/117254515/117254517/34853741/34867926/34868471/34868571/120279026/119001858
    1. HEADLAMP AIMING ADJUSTMENT
    1. Adjust the aim vertically: Adjust the headlamp aim into the specified range by turning aiming screw with a screwdriver. NOTE: The final turn of the aiming screw should be made in the clockwise direction. If the screw is tightened excessively, loosen it and then retighten it, so that the final turn of the screw is in the clockwise direction. HINT:
  • Perform low-beam aim adjustment.
  • The headlamp aim moves up when turning the aiming screw clockwise, and moves down when turning the aiming screw counterclockwise.

  • Response From Double J

    Isn't that something.....geez....

    Thats why I said ...just give the adjuster a turn ...see what happens....lol...
    I'm with you....shine 'em against a wall and start adjusting until your happy...lol

    Response From DrElectrics
    Top Rated Answer

    http://primates.ximian.com/~jimmac/slides/tango/img/shocked.png That was incredible.. VERY VERY informative.

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    Just general - not specific to this car - - - Look for some screw device on the top and outer part of where the lense mounts. Top tightens or losens for height and the side towards fender is for left and right. Count your turns so you can at least put it back as a reference point. There could even be a turn knob for this on some cars,

    T

    How to choose a good muffler for my toyota corolla

    Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
    Question From reuben27 on How to choose a good muffler for my toyota corolla

    im not really good in choosing mufflers

    Response From Tom Greenleaf
    Top Rated Answer

    Removed your sign off link to save you as it appeared to be personal. This is open to the world to view.

    First read this and tell us at least what dang year this car is............

    http://autoforums.carjunky.com/Automotive_Repair_C1/Car_Making_Funny_Noises_F7/Please_read_so_we_can_help_you._P21497/

    T

    1993 toyota corolla

    Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
    Question From Guest on 1993 toyota corolla

    i have a 1993 toyota corolla with 80,000 miles. my heater is not working and sometimes the speedometer doesn't move. Are these 2 related

    Response From DanD

    I believe that in 93 Toyota, at least in the Corolla’s, were still using a mechanical speedo; they used a cable from the transmission to spin the gauge needle.
    So I doubt that the two problems are related.
    The small gear in the transmission maybe worn and not driving the cable, the cable may have become unclipped from the back of the speedo head or the speedo head itself maybe worn and not always able to move the needle?
    As for the heater motor things like a blown fuse, bad switch, burnt resistor, poor wire connections or a defective motor. You could start by checking the fuses and then work your way through the system?
    Dan.

    Response From Guest
    Top Rated Answer

    Thnak you Dan! I will look into it

    P0420 Toyota Corolla 2003

    Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
    Question From GeO2110 on P0420 Toyota Corolla 2003

    Hello to everyone, I found this site in my search to found a solution to a P0420.

    2003
    Toyota
    Corolla
    1.8l (1ZZ)
    88k miles.


    This car is from USA, but it is now in Guatemala where I live. Yesterday check for the codes and the freeze frame data. ---------------------------------------------
    Service $02 - Freeze Frame Report
    ---------------------------------------------
    Date: 07/08/2012 21:41:39

    PID Description Value Units
    --- ----------- ---- -----
    0x02 Freeze frame DTC P0420
    0x03 Fuel system status Closed-loop, using oxygen sensor feedback to determine fuel mix
    0x04 Calculated load value 50.98 %
    0x05 Engine coolant temperature 199.4 F
    0x06 Short term fuel % trim - Bank 1 1.56 %
    0x07 Long term fuel % trim - Bank 1 -3.12 %
    0x0C Engine RPM 2343.75 RPM
    0x0D Vehicle speed 38.53 MPH
    0x0F Intake air temperature 80.6 F

    This is the info that I get from a short trip, after erase the original code.

    http://img845.imageshack.us/img845/3631/resument.jpg

    http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/4121/rpmign.jpg

    http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/9808/stfltfbank1.jpg

    http://img860.imageshack.us/img860/399/o2stfsensor1.jpg

    http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/15/o2stfsensor2.jpg


    Regards.

    Response From Hammer Time

    The reflash and cat replacement from the TSB was posted to the original poster long ago and that advice has not changed.

    Your distrust of the dealer and home remedies have no place in this advice forum. This is already an old thread and you shouldn't be responding to it at all.
    This thread is closed now.

    Response From cja9500

    I just fixed the P0420 code on my '03 corolla le. The car ran fine, but it wouldn't pass PA inspection due to the CEL being on. Toyota wanted me to spend serious money to fix this, again the car ran fine!! Found out by internet search that there are these things called Technical service bulletins (TSB), put out by the NTSB (goverment). you can sign up at alldatadiy.com to actually read the bulletins.. it cost me around $25 for a year. Anyway, the TSB says to replace the cat and re-flash the ecm. I you tube searched how to clean the cat and poured a gallon of lacquer thinner into a 1/2 tank of gas and ran the car hard until tank was close to empty. There were no adverse effects and I haven't had any problems, I did this over 2 months ago now. This did not get the CEL to go out, because the ecm has to be reflashed. I could not find a non-Toyota dealer with the machine to do this for me. When I called the dealer, to ask them about the TSB and if they would re-flash it for me, they insisted in diagnosing the car and charging $85 to do so. Then came all the bull about O2 sensors and multiple catalytic converters on the car...Blah..Blah..Blah..
    I talked to my mechanic and he called the dealer in front of me and asked them to re-flash the ecm for him (his shop). My guy made the mistake of not calling me back, so I proceeded to call the dealer and posed as Chris from "John's Auto", this got me into the dealer minus the $85 diagnosis fee. Took more bull at the dealer, "There is no need to re-flash an ecm to fix a p0420 code" I told them to look it up, they did, and at least that know-it all shut up. Next the manager told me re-flashing the ecm without replacing the cat may cause the car to run very bad. At this point, I no longer cared, and had it re-flashed for $95. The car ran fine, it is still running fine. It passed inspection and no more light. The answer as right in the TSB!!, but the dealer did not even check or it!! A little research can go a long way!! I'm going to post this in other threads as well, so no one has to go through what I went through, or get ripped off. You could put in a new cat but if you have an 03-04 corolla with this problem, the light will just come back on... Hope this helps someone.

    Response From Hammer Time
    Top Rated Answer

    Check with the dealer for an update computer flash for that and you may have to replace the cat but only use dealer cats on that one.

    Response From GeO2110

    Hi, here is almost impossible to ask to dealer for an computer update, they simply don't know anything about. The dealer cat is at US$ 2,400, so it is almost illogic to go with them.

    At this point, what I was unable to answer is that the short term fuel trim of Sensor 2 is ok to be at -1, in all the conditions. The O2 sensor 2 y different than the O2 sensor 1, so I suppose that the cat is doing its job. I can't find any info to check that the STF should moving, as its just for check the cat.

    Response From Hammer Time

    I understand you got a new toy but believe me, your info doesn't mean a thing for that code. If you want to waste your money on an aftermarket cat, go right ahead but I'm in the business and Toyota uses a larger capacity cat and the aftermarkets always have a problem. If you don't want to look into the reflash, then you're pretty much wasting every one's time here.

    Response From Discretesignals

    Those are nice snap shots.

    If you took that long snap shot while driving, I'd say the converter isn't doing much.

    The O2 sensor voltages tells you something is wrong. If the converter was working and the engine was at operating temperature the B1S2 should be almost flatline. There looks to be a lot of inversions going on.

    The fuel trim looks great. As long as the long term fuel trim is staying between -9 and +9 % the computer isn't over compensating for a problem.

    What you could do is take a shorter snap shot, but of one just with the front and rear O2 sensor voltages. Get the engine up to operating temperature and then hold the engine around 2500 rpm in park. Snap the voltages and compare them.

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