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Genuine
1972 Toyota Corolla Engine Sealant Genuine

P311-1007988    New

Qty:
$17.79
Genuine Engine Sealant
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Black - 3.0 oz. Oil pan & Camshaft Housing Sealant These are sold in individual 3 oz. containers. If you prefer to buy by the case, one case = 20 containers.
  • 3.0 oz black
  • Black 3.0 oz.
Brand: Genuine
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
1972 - Toyota Corolla
Genuine
1996 Toyota Corolla Engine Sealant Genuine

P311-1007988    New

Qty:
$17.79
Genuine Engine Sealant
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -07/1996, Black - 3.0 oz. Oil pan & Camshaft Housing Sealant These are sold in individual 3 oz. containers. If you prefer to buy by the case, one case = 20 containers.
  • 3.0 oz black
  • Black 3.0 oz.
Brand: Genuine
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
1996 - Toyota Corolla
Genuine
1997 Toyota Corolla Engine Sealant Genuine

P311-1007988    New

Qty:
$17.79
Genuine Engine Sealant
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -07/1997, Black - 3.0 oz. Oil pan & Camshaft Housing Sealant These are sold in individual 3 oz. containers. If you prefer to buy by the case, one case = 20 containers.
  • 3.0 oz black
  • Black 3.0 oz.
Brand: Genuine
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
1997 - Toyota Corolla
Genuine
1971 Toyota Corolla Engine Sealant Genuine

P311-1007988    New

Qty:
$17.79
Genuine Engine Sealant
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 05/1970-, Black - 3.0 oz. Oil pan & Camshaft Housing Sealant These are sold in individual 3 oz. containers. If you prefer to buy by the case, one case = 20 containers.
  • 3.0 oz black
  • Black 3.0 oz.
Brand: Genuine
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
1971 - Toyota Corolla
Genuine
1977 Toyota Corolla Engine Sealant Genuine

P311-1007988    New

Qty:
$17.79
Genuine Engine Sealant
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 01/1977-, Black - 3.0 oz. Oil pan & Camshaft Housing Sealant These are sold in individual 3 oz. containers. If you prefer to buy by the case, one case = 20 containers.
  • 3.0 oz black
  • Black 3.0 oz.
Brand: Genuine
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1977 - Toyota Corolla
Genuine
1976 Toyota Corolla Engine Sealant Genuine

P311-1007988    New

Qty:
$17.79
Genuine Engine Sealant
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 03/1976-, Black - 3.0 oz. Oil pan & Camshaft Housing Sealant These are sold in individual 3 oz. containers. If you prefer to buy by the case, one case = 20 containers.
  • 3.0 oz black
  • Black 3.0 oz.
Brand: Genuine
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
1976 - Toyota Corolla
Genuine
1980 Toyota Corolla Engine Sealant Genuine

P311-1007988    New

Qty:
$17.79
Genuine Engine Sealant
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 08/1979-, Black - 3.0 oz. Oil pan & Camshaft Housing Sealant These are sold in individual 3 oz. containers. If you prefer to buy by the case, one case = 20 containers.
  • 3.0 oz black
  • Black 3.0 oz.
Brand: Genuine
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Vehicle
1980 - Toyota Corolla
Genuine
1987 Toyota Corolla Engine Sealant Genuine

P311-1007988    New

Qty:
$17.79
Genuine Engine Sealant
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 02/1987-, Black - 3.0 oz. Oil pan & Camshaft Housing Sealant These are sold in individual 3 oz. containers. If you prefer to buy by the case, one case = 20 containers.
  • 3.0 oz black
  • Black 3.0 oz.
Brand: Genuine
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Vehicle
1987 - Toyota Corolla
Genuine
1987 Toyota Corolla Engine Sealant Genuine

P311-1007988    New

Qty:
$17.79
Genuine Engine Sealant
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 09/1986-, Black - 3.0 oz. Oil pan & Camshaft Housing Sealant These are sold in individual 3 oz. containers. If you prefer to buy by the case, one case = 20 containers.
  • 3.0 oz black
  • Black 3.0 oz.
Brand: Genuine
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1987 - Toyota Corolla
Genuine
1988 Toyota Corolla Engine Sealant Genuine

P311-1007988    New

Qty:
$17.79
Genuine Engine Sealant
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -07/1988, Black - 3.0 oz. Oil pan & Camshaft Housing Sealant These are sold in individual 3 oz. containers. If you prefer to buy by the case, one case = 20 containers.
  • 3.0 oz black
  • Black 3.0 oz.
Brand: Genuine
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1988 - Toyota Corolla

Showing 1 - 10 of 36,460 Products.


Latest Toyota Corolla Repair Guides & Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2006 toyota corolla headlights

Showing 3 out of 6 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From trailerglide on 2006 toyota corolla headlights

can anyone tell me how to ajust the headlights on a 2006 toyota corolla ? one light is higher then the other.

Response From DrElectrics

When you are doing this, drive your car upto a wall with your lights on, so you can see where they need to be adjusted to.

Response From Double J

OH MAN...here you go...remember you asked....lol....at the very end ,you'll see where the adjuster is.....
maybe just give it a turn ..see what happens......unless you got time on your hands...lol..


ADJUSTMENT

  1. VEHICLE PREPARATION FOR HEADLAMP AIM ADJUSTMENT
  1. Prepare the vehicle:
  • Ensure there is no damage or deformation to the body around the headlamps.
  • Fill the fuel tank.
  • Make sure that the oil is filled to the specified level.
  • Make sure that the coolant is filled to the specified level.
  • Inflate the tires to the appropriate pressure.
  • Place the spare tire, tools, and jack in their original position.
  • Unload the trunk.
  • Sit a person of average weight (68 kg, 150 lb ) in the driver's seat.
    1. PREPARATION FOR HEADLAMP AIMING (Using a tester)
    1. Prepare the vehicle for headlamp aim check.
    2. Adjust in accordance with headlamp tester instructions.
    1. PREPARATION FOR HEADLAMP AIMING (Using a screen)
    1. Prepare the vehicle according to the following conditions:
  • Place the vehicle in a location that is dark enough to clearly observe the cutoff line. The cutoff line is a distinct line, below which light from the headlamps can be observed and above which it cannot.
  • Place the vehicle at a 90° angle to the wall.
  • Create a 7.62 m (25 ft) distance between the vehicle and the wall.
  • Place the vehicle on a level surface.
  • Bounce the vehicle up and down to settle the suspension.

  • NOTE: A distance of 7.62 m (25 ft) between the vehicle and the wall is necessary for proper aim adjustment. If unavailable, secure a distance of exactly 3 m (9.84 ft) for check and adjustment. (The target zone will change with the distance so follow the instructions in the illustration.)

    1. Prepare a piece of thick white paper (approximately 2 m (6.6 ft) (height) x 4 m (13.1 ft) (width)) to use as a screen.
    2. Draw a vertical line down the center of screen V line).


    1. Set the screen as shown in the illustration. HINT:
  • Stand the screen perpendicular to the ground.
  • Align the V line on the screen with the center of the vehicle.


    1. Draw base lines (H line, V LH, V RH lines) on the screen as shown in the illustration. HINT:
  • The base lines differ for"low-beam inspection" and "high-beam inspection"
  • Follow the same procedures for "high-beam inspection"
  • Mark the headlamp bulb center marks on the screen. If the center mark cannot be observed on the headlamp, use the center of the headlamp bulb or the manufacturer's name marked on the headlamp as the center mark.
    1. H Line (Headlamp height): Draw a horizontal line across the screen so that it passes through the center marks. The H line should be at the same height as the headlamp bulb center marks of the low-beam headlamps.
    2. V LH Line, V RH Line (Center mark position of left-hand (LH) and right-hand (RH) headlamps): Draw two vertical lines so that they intersect the H line at each center mark (aligned with the center of the low-beam headlamp bulbs).
    1. HEADLAMP AIMING INSPECTION
    1. Cover or disconnect the connector of the headlamp on the opposite side to prevent light from the headlamp not being inspected from affecting headlamp aiming inspection. NOTE: Do not keep the headlamp covered for more than 3 minutes . The headlamp lens is made of synthetic resin, and may easily melt or be damaged due to heat. HINT: When checking the aim of the high-beam, cover the low-beam or disconnect the connector.
    2. Start the engine. NOTE: Engine rpm must be 1,500 or more.


    1. Turn on the headlamp and make sure that the cutoff line falls within the specified area, as shown in the illustration. HINT:
  • Since the low-beam light and the high-beam light are a unit, if the aim on one is correct, the other should also be correct. However, check both beams just to make sure.
  • Alignment distance is 7.62 m (25 ft) : The cutoff line is 101 mm (3.97 in.) above and below the H line as well as left and right of the V line with low-beam (SAEJ599).
  • Alignment distance is 3 m (9.84 ft) : The cutoff line is 40 mm (1.57 in.) above and below the H line as well as left and right of the V line with low-beam (SAEJ599).
  • Alignment distance is 7.62 m (25 ft) : The cutoff line is 101 mm (3.97 in.) above and below the H line as well as left and right of the V line with high-beam (SAEJ599).
  • Alignment distance is 3 m (9.84 ft) : The cutoff line is 40 mm (1.57 in.) above and below the H line as well as left and right of the V line with high-beam (SAEJ599).
  • Alignment distance is 7.62 m (25 ft) : The cutoff line is 0 mm (0 in.) below the H line with low-beam.
  • Alignment distance is 3 m (9.84 ft) : The cutoff line is 0 mm (0 in.) below the H line with low-beam.


    1. HEADLAMP AIMING ADJUSTMENT
    1. Adjust the aim vertically: Adjust the headlamp aim into the specified range by turning aiming screw with a screwdriver. NOTE: The final turn of the aiming screw should be made in the clockwise direction. If the screw is tightened excessively, loosen it and then retighten it, so that the final turn of the screw is in the clockwise direction. HINT:
  • Perform low-beam aim adjustment.
  • The headlamp aim moves up when turning the aiming screw clockwise, and moves down when turning the aiming screw counterclockwise.

  • Response From Double J

    Isn't that something.....geez....

    Thats why I said ...just give the adjuster a turn ...see what happens....lol...
    I'm with you....shine 'em against a wall and start adjusting until your happy...lol

    Response From DrElectrics Top Rated Answer

    That was incredible.. VERY VERY informative.

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    Just general - not specific to this car - - - Look for some screw device on the top and outer part of where the lense mounts. Top tightens or losens for height and the side towards fender is for left and right. Count your turns so you can at least put it back as a reference point. There could even be a turn knob for this on some cars,

    T

    toyota corolla

    Showing 3 out of 4 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
    Question From febausa on toyota corolla

    Toyota Corolla 1994, the engine was turned off suddenlly after 30 minutes but the engine turned on again when it is cooled

    Response From Sidom

    Is this a question or a statement?

    Response From febausa Top Rated Answer

    This is statement. How fix this problem?

    Response From Sidom

    Any engine requires 3 things to run. Air/fuel, fire & compression, all at the right time. You need to find out which on you are losing and then check out that system

    1993 toyota corolla

    Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
    Question From Guest on 1993 toyota corolla

    i have a 1993 toyota corolla with 80,000 miles. my heater is not working and sometimes the speedometer doesn't move. Are these 2 related

    Response From DanD

    I believe that in 93 Toyota, at least in the Corolla’s, were still using a mechanical speedo; they used a cable from the transmission to spin the gauge needle.
    So I doubt that the two problems are related.
    The small gear in the transmission maybe worn and not driving the cable, the cable may have become unclipped from the back of the speedo head or the speedo head itself maybe worn and not always able to move the needle?
    As for the heater motor things like a blown fuse, bad switch, burnt resistor, poor wire connections or a defective motor. You could start by checking the fuses and then work your way through the system?
    Dan.

    Response From Guest Top Rated Answer

    Thnak you Dan! I will look into it

    P0420 Toyota Corolla 2003

    Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
    Question From GeO2110 on P0420 Toyota Corolla 2003

    Hello to everyone, I found this site in my search to found a solution to a P0420.

    2003
    Toyota
    Corolla
    1.8l (1ZZ)
    88k miles.


    This car is from USA, but it is now in Guatemala where I live. Yesterday check for the codes and the freeze frame data. ---------------------------------------------
    Service $02 - Freeze Frame Report
    ---------------------------------------------
    Date: 07/08/2012 21:41:39

    PID Description Value Units
    --- ----------- ---- -----
    0x02 Freeze frame DTC P0420
    0x03 Fuel system status Closed-loop, using oxygen sensor feedback to determine fuel mix
    0x04 Calculated load value 50.98 %
    0x05 Engine coolant temperature 199.4 F
    0x06 Short term fuel % trim - Bank 1 1.56 %
    0x07 Long term fuel % trim - Bank 1 -3.12 %
    0x0C Engine RPM 2343.75 RPM
    0x0D Vehicle speed 38.53 MPH
    0x0F Intake air temperature 80.6 F

    This is the info that I get from a short trip, after erase the original code.












    Regards.

    Response From Hammer Time

    The reflash and cat replacement from the TSB was posted to the original poster long ago and that advice has not changed.

    Your distrust of the dealer and home remedies have no place in this advice forum. This is already an old thread and you shouldn't be responding to it at all.
    This thread is closed now.

    Response From cja9500

    I just fixed the P0420 code on my '03 corolla le. The car ran fine, but it wouldn't pass PA inspection due to the CEL being on. Toyota wanted me to spend serious money to fix this, again the car ran fine!! Found out by internet search that there are these things called Technical service bulletins (TSB), put out by the NTSB (goverment). you can sign up at alldatadiy.com to actually read the bulletins.. it cost me around $25 for a year. Anyway, the TSB says to replace the cat and re-flash the ecm. I you tube searched how to clean the cat and poured a gallon of lacquer thinner into a 1/2 tank of gas and ran the car hard until tank was close to empty. There were no adverse effects and I haven't had any problems, I did this over 2 months ago now. This did not get the CEL to go out, because the ecm has to be reflashed. I could not find a non-Toyota dealer with the machine to do this for me. When I called the dealer, to ask them about the TSB and if they would re-flash it for me, they insisted in diagnosing the car and charging $85 to do so. Then came all the bull about O2 sensors and multiple catalytic converters on the car...Blah..Blah..Blah..
    I talked to my mechanic and he called the dealer in front of me and asked them to re-flash the ecm for him (his shop). My guy made the mistake of not calling me back, so I proceeded to call the dealer and posed as Chris from "John's Auto", this got me into the dealer minus the $85 diagnosis fee. Took more bull at the dealer, "There is no need to re-flash an ecm to fix a p0420 code" I told them to look it up, they did, and at least that know-it all shut up. Next the manager told me re-flashing the ecm without replacing the cat may cause the car to run very bad. At this point, I no longer cared, and had it re-flashed for $95. The car ran fine, it is still running fine. It passed inspection and no more light. The answer as right in the TSB!!, but the dealer did not even check or it!! A little research can go a long way!! I'm going to post this in other threads as well, so no one has to go through what I went through, or get ripped off. You could put in a new cat but if you have an 03-04 corolla with this problem, the light will just come back on... Hope this helps someone.

    Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

    Check with the dealer for an update computer flash for that and you may have to replace the cat but only use dealer cats on that one.

    Response From GeO2110

    Hi, here is almost impossible to ask to dealer for an computer update, they simply don't know anything about. The dealer cat is at US$ 2,400, so it is almost illogic to go with them.

    At this point, what I was unable to answer is that the short term fuel trim of Sensor 2 is ok to be at -1, in all the conditions. The O2 sensor 2 y different than the O2 sensor 1, so I suppose that the cat is doing its job. I can't find any info to check that the STF should moving, as its just for check the cat.

    Response From Hammer Time

    I understand you got a new toy but believe me, your info doesn't mean a thing for that code. If you want to waste your money on an aftermarket cat, go right ahead but I'm in the business and Toyota uses a larger capacity cat and the aftermarkets always have a problem. If you don't want to look into the reflash, then you're pretty much wasting every one's time here.

    Response From Discretesignals

    Those are nice snap shots.

    If you took that long snap shot while driving, I'd say the converter isn't doing much.

    The O2 sensor voltages tells you something is wrong. If the converter was working and the engine was at operating temperature the B1S2 should be almost flatline. There looks to be a lot of inversions going on.

    The fuel trim looks great. As long as the long term fuel trim is staying between -9 and +9 % the computer isn't over compensating for a problem.

    What you could do is take a shorter snap shot, but of one just with the front and rear O2 sensor voltages. Get the engine up to operating temperature and then hold the engine around 2500 rpm in park. Snap the voltages and compare them.

    Re: 1994 Toyota Corolla lights won't turn off!

    Showing 5 out of 26 Posts | Show 21 Hidden Posts
    Question From Jcgrant78 on Re: 1994 Toyota Corolla lights won't turn off!

    Did anyone figure this out? This is happening right now with our 1994 Corolla Wagon.....have to take the battery cable off to shut lights off. Mechanic already ruled out the steering wheel light switch.....says it might be something fused together in the fuse box.

  • Response From Hammer Time

    I'd like to know how a short in a fuse box could make the lights stay on.

    Response From Discretesignals

    Could be a short between the steering wheel and the seat.

    Response From Hammer Time

    I thinks there's some smoking going on but it isn't coming out of the fuse box.

    Response From Jcgrant78


    I thinks there's some smoking going on but it isn't coming out of the fuse box.

    Where do you think it is at?

    Response From Hammer Time

    The smoking?

    That would be coming out of that so called mechanic.

    Response From Jcgrant78


    The smoking?

    That would be coming out of that so called mechanic.

    He's a good guy....he's the kind of mechanic that will just get you back on the road as cheap as possible and does not go looking for things to replace that don't need to be. He most likely won't charge me for the time and labor he has put into it already.

    Response From Hammer Time

    He most likely won't charge me for the time and labor he has put into it already.


    You get what you pay for.

    Response From Discretesignals

    Tail fuse is in junction block #1 which is on the driver's side of the dash.

    Response From Jcgrant78



    He most likely won't charge me for the time and labor he has put into it already.


    You get what you pay for.

    I suppose so....he has fixed many a vehicle for family and friends and gotten us back out there. We have had a few issues over the years, but he always takes them back in and fixes it.

    His shop is way off the beaten path and he does absolutely no advertising, but he is always has more business then he can sometimes handle. Ends up working most weekends and even has to have a pullout couch when he can't get home.

    Response From Jcgrant78


    Thank you....I will check it in the morning.....

    Response From Jcgrant78

    The parking lights in the front and the brake lights in the back stay on including the dashboard lights. When you press down on the brakes the lights do get brighter and the cyclops light does come on....I think that rules out the brake switch? Our mechanic ordered a part for the steering wheel switch and that did not work....all the fuses were pulled out and lights are still on. He put a quick disconnect on the battery and gave us the car back until he could do some further research....he is really swamped with cars right now. He is thinking that I might have to replace the entire fuse box. Hopefully someone has had this issue and it is just a simple fix....

    Response From Discretesignals

    Is there any modifications done, such as aftermarket equipment installed?

    Response From Jcgrant78


    Is there any modifications done, such as aftermarket equipment installed?

    Nope.....nothing at all
    My Mother originally bought it new off the lot and pretty much just got the basic model....
    It doesn't even have power windows

    Response From Discretesignals

    I don't think the brake lamps are staying on. The parking lamps are staying on. If the brake lamps where shorted to something and staying on, the third brake lamp would be on too.


    Does your mechanic have the diagram of the tail lamps circuit?

    It has the stock radio in it?

    Are the tag lights on too?

    Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

    The lights that illuminate the license plate.

    Response From Jcgrant78


    I don't think the brake lamps are staying on. The parking lamps are staying on. If the brake lamps where shorted to something and staying on, the third brake lamp would be on too.


    Does your mechanic have the diagram of the tail lamps circuit?

    It has the stock radio in it?

    Are the tag lights on too?


    He told me he was going to have to research it.....he is short on help right now and has a lot of vehicles to get done and could not spend anymore time on this until next week.

    The radio is stock w/ cassette player

    What are the tag lights?

    Response From Jcgrant78


    The lights that illuminate the license plate.

    Gotta check that....give me a minute

    Response From Discretesignals

    Hurry up...I need my beauty sleep...lol

    Response From Jcgrant78


    Hurry up...I need my beauty sleep...lol

    Gave up on that a long time ago

    Response From Jcgrant78


    In the morning when you get a chance. Remove the tail fuse 15 amp and see if the lamps stay on. If they do, there are some connectors that you can unplug to isolate where the short is. The hard part is finding the location of those connectors. There is also an intergration relay that the tail lamp circuit runs through and they had problems with those. Just need to isolate the location of the short to power.

    I take it that this fuse is in the brake light assembly and not in the fuse box?

    Response From Discretesignals

    In the morning when you get a chance. Remove the tail fuse 15 amp and see if the lamps stay on. If they do, there are some connectors that you can unplug to isolate where the short is. The hard part is finding the location of those connectors. There is also an intergration relay that the tail lamp circuit runs through and they had problems with those. Just need to isolate the location of the short to power.

    Response From Jcgrant78

    yep....Tag Light is on and yes I am soaked.....

    Response From Jcgrant78



    The lights that illuminate the license plate.

    Gotta check that....give me a minute

    Well....I'm going to have to wait on that.....just started storming like crazy outside

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    I separated your post from an old one that nobody came back with what did or didn't fix their problem.

    If your mechanic with the car in front of him/her is just guessing but has ruled out a multifunction switch then I sure don't know what to suggest. If that mechanic thinks it's in the fuse box then take it out and check for a short,

    T

    Response From Discretesignals

    Figure what out? Which lights are staying on? Is your mechanic diagnosing it right now?