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We stock Timing Chain parts for most Mitsubishi models, including Lancer, Outlander.

Cloyes
2009 Mitsubishi Raider Engine Timing Chain - Upper 6 Cyl 3.7L Cloyes

P311-15A93FE    C194  New

53021295AA , 9194A

Qty:
$21.08
Cloyes Engine Timing Chain  Upper
  • ENGINE TIMING CHAIN
  • Chain Row Quantity: 1 Link Quantity: 94 Overall Length: 17 1/2"
  • Product Attributes:
    • Link Quantity: 94
    • Overall Length: 17 1/2"
    • Pitch: 3/8 In.
    • Width: 0.51"
  • Single Roller True Roller Chain. Prestressed And Heat-Treated For Increased Durability.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Cloyes
Position: Upper
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2009 - Mitsubishi Raider Upper V 6 Cyl 3.7L 226 -
Cloyes
2007 Mitsubishi Raider Engine Timing Chain - Center Lower 8 Cyl 4.7L Cloyes

P311-21BD1E5    C393  New

9393 , 53020680

Qty:
$37.59
Cloyes Engine Timing Chain  Center Lower
  • ENGINE TIMING CHAIN
  • Chain Row Quantity: 1 Link Quantity: 70 Overall Length: 11 1/4" Primary
  • Product Attributes:
    • Link Quantity: 70
    • Overall Length: 11 1/4"
    • Pitch: .323 In.
    • Width: 0.51"
  • Pre-Stressed And Heat-Treated For Increased Durability. Precision Cut Links With Smooth Finish. Precision Pitch Control For Proper Chain To Sprocket Tooth Fit.
Brand: Cloyes
Position: Center Lower
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Mitsubishi Raider Center Lower V 8 Cyl 4.7L 287 -
Cloyes
2007 Mitsubishi Raider Engine Timing Chain - Upper 8 Cyl 4.7L Cloyes

P311-2E36606    C394  New

9394 , 53020778

Qty:
$54.42
Cloyes Engine Timing Chain  Upper
  • ENGINE TIMING CHAIN
  • Chain Row Quantity: 1 Link Quantity: 106 Overall Length: 16 3/4"
  • Product Attributes:
    • Link Quantity: 106
    • Overall Length: 16 3/4"
    • Pitch: .323 In.
    • Width: 0.52"
  • Pre-Stressed And Heat-Treated For Increased Durability. Precision Cut Links With Smooth Finish. Precision Pitch Control For Proper Chain To Sprocket Tooth Fit.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Cloyes
Position: Upper
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Mitsubishi Raider Upper V 8 Cyl 4.7L 287 -
Original Equipment
2008 Mitsubishi Lancer Engine Timing Chain Original Equipment

P311-57DD5DC    W0133-2079857  New

Qty:
$200.35
Original Equipment Engine Timing Chain
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Morse
Brand: Original Equipment
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - Mitsubishi Lancer
Original Equipment
2014 Mitsubishi RVR Engine Timing Chain Original Equipment

P311-57DD5DC    W0133-2079857  New

Qty:
$200.35
Original Equipment Engine Timing Chain
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Original Equipment
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2014 - Mitsubishi RVR
Original Equipment
2015 Mitsubishi Outlander Engine Timing Chain 4 Cyl 2.4L Original Equipment - Morse

P311-0E3B7F4    W0133-2040376  New

Qty:
$86.42
Original Equipment Engine Timing Chain
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Morse
Brand: Original Equipment
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2015 - Mitsubishi Outlander L 4 Cyl 2.4L 144 2360

Latest Mitsubishi Repair and Timing Chain Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2005 Mitsubishi Lancer Ralliart

Showing 2 out of 9 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From AirborneGeekRanger on 2005 Mitsubishi Lancer Ralliart

2005
Mitsubishi
Lancer
2.4L 4cyl 5M
140,000 Miles
Standard Transmission
2 Wheel Drive
No Aftermarket Add-ons
ALL Scheduled and Regular Maintenence Performed
1 Family Owned

Hello,

When driving at any speed and actively pressing on the throttle the car performs stellar. When I let off the throttle or keep the throttle at a steady speed, the car sporadically feels like it has a loss of power and then resumes. It feels as if a huge gust of wind hits me. In the past I have had the CEL come on and then go away after a full tank of gas has been used. This has happened at least 3 times in a year or two. The only recent thing done to the vehicle has been charging the Air Conditioner. I thought the compressor was the culprit, but this problem happens with or without A/C running. I have done the following to rectify the current problem with zero success.

  • Changed the Spark Plugs (Not the cheapest ones, but not NGK's) Gapped at .044 per Autozone tech and manual
  • Used premium STP Fuel Injector Cleaner in the gas tank with a full tank of gas.
  • Changed Air Filter.
  • Oil and Filter changed.
  • Purchased throttle body cleaner and sprayed the outside of the throttle body (Thinking the cable might be seized up)


  • I am grateful for any suggestions and appreciate you taking the time to lend your expertise.

    Response From Discretesignals

    This has happened at least 3 times in a year or two.

    Do you mean the problem has occurred this much or the CEL coming on?

    When the CEL came on did you have the computer scanned to see what trouble code(s) it was storing? If so, what were the code numbers?

    Response From AirborneGeekRanger

    The CEL has come and gone several times. I attributed it to bad gas. The current problem has presented itself only recently and is still here. I did not have a code reader hooked up to the vehicle when the CEL light came on because it went away after a full tank of gas had been used. I will take it to Autozone today and see if any codes come up.

    Response From Hammer Time

    I attributed it to bad gas.

    That assumption couldn't be any less likely.

    The "check engine" light is an indicator for a system that monitors many electronic functions in the system, also called the "malfunction indicator lamp" (MIL). It can come on for any of hundreds of different causes from any of the systems that the computer monitors. Some are very important and can lead to further component or engine damage and some are emissions related not as serious but still a problem and need to be repaired.

    Your first step is to have the computer scanned to retrieve the trouble codes that were set when the check engine light came on. Those codes will give you specific information about what the computer saw and will get you pointed in the right direction to find your problem. With a 1996 or newer and some 95 cars and you have an AutoZone or Advanced auto parts in your area, they will read them for free. Once you have these code numbers, we can be a lot more specific about what your problem may be.

    Response From AirborneGeekRanger

    P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction

    Response From Hammer Time

    Yes, that helps a lot. The computer is seeing an issue with the Crank Sensor signal. It could be a bad sensor, a problem with any of the related wiring or even the computer itself.

    Response From AirborneGeekRanger Top Rated Answer

    I Just replaced the Crankshaft Position Sensor and the problem is resolved. BTW, it was a Pain in the A$$. It resides behind the timing chain cover. Had to pull the passenger wheel, plastic shrouds, tensionor pully, static pully, harmonic balancer, and then finally the lower timing chain/belt cover.

    Tools used:

    10 through 16mm wrenches and sockets
    Cheater Bar with 1/4 end (Used to put the Serpantine belt back on the tensionor)
    Flat Tip Screw driver (Used to pop off the plastic plugs that holds the shrouds in place)
    Small plyers
    Jack
    Lug Wrench
    Jack Stand


    Thanks to all who provided advice.

    Response From Hammer Time

    LOL......... there are some a lot worse that that one.
    Glad you got it resolved.

    I will close this thread now to prevent spamming.

    Response From Discretesignals

    The more information you can get, the better chance you may have formulating a strategy to figuring out where to look for the culprit.

    Even though the light may have gone out. The engine controller can store the code(s) in history.

    97 chrysler

    Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
    Question From justme on 97 chrysler

    My husband has a 1997 Chrysler Sebring convertable. It has 110 miles on it and has a 2.5 engine. About a week ago while driving the speedom stopped working for a minuter or two. Also the indicator light on the dash board for the oil and whatever flashed. He did nothing to find out why and hasnot made attention if they have done it since. Well yesterday the car stalled and he said it had a smell like rubber. He coasted to the side of the road and noticed it was boiling over. He called me and our grandson brought his water. After it cooled down water was added it still would not start so it was towed home.
    It still will not start and several people have give their opinion which are timing chain, head gasket and several things.
    We were told that is is going to be very costly. Living on s.s. is not something we are going to be able to do.
    Do you have any thought on this problem. We really need an answer from someone who is honest.
    Bless you

    Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

    1st let me start off by saying, this is just the internet, I can't see this car and have to go off what info is provided to me and I'm filling in the blanks in a couple of areas.

    That being said, from what you posted it sounds like this car was overheating and driven to the point where the engine died. With any engine, this isn't a good thing. With the Chry 2.5 (actually a Mitsubishi) it's even worse. These engines have a high rate of doing internal damage when a timing belt breaks or strips (this engine has a belt, not a chain). It's actually more common for the water pump to go out and break the belt than the belt to fail by it self.

    The 1st thing that needs to be done is to see if the belt is broken, if not then we can go from there but this needs to be checked 1st. While not 100% a quick check you can do is just crank the engine over and see if it sounds "different". The normal cranking sound you can hear it "lope" as it turns over. When the belt breaks it's more of a straight constant "whine". It takes a trained ear but even so, someone who is use to their car can usually tell "something" sounds different now...

    If the belt is broken the next step would be to put a new belt on it and see if there is engine damage. I already covered the high rate, so no need to dwell on that anymore. In cases like this I will pull the frt 3 plugs & put a boroscope in the cylinders to see if I can spot any engine damage. If so there is no need for the extra labor to put a belt on it. The back 3 plugs requires the plenum to be removed so if the frt 3 cylinders are good, then you would need to proceed with the new belt......

    Like I mentioned, I can't see this car right now so this is just an opinion going off limited info.... I have seen & done a lot of these, so I am familiar with this engine..

    I really really hope I'm wrong on this and it's just something simple that I've overlooked....... That would make my day......

    I don't know if this helps at all but just my opinion.....