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Best Selling Genuine Mercury Timing Chains

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We stock Timing Chain parts for most Mercury models, including Cougar, Grand Marquis, Mountaineer, Sable, Villager.

Cloyes
1995 Mercury Sable Engine Timing Chain 6 Cyl 3.8L Cloyes

P311-121E214    W0133-1700438  New

Qty:
$44.47
Cloyes Engine Timing Chain
Brand: Cloyes
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1995 - Mercury Sable V 6 Cyl 3.8L 232 -
Cloyes
2008 Mercury Mountaineer Engine Timing Chain 6 Cyl 4.0L Cloyes

P311-5873AD4    W0133-1702619  New

Qty:
$35.60
Cloyes Engine Timing Chain
  • Crankshaft To Auxiliary Shaft
Brand: Cloyes
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2008 - Mercury Mountaineer V 6 Cyl 4.0L 245 -
Cloyes
2004 Mercury Mountaineer Engine Timing Chain 6 Cyl 4.0L Cloyes

P311-5873AD4    W0133-1702619  New

Qty:
$35.60
Cloyes Engine Timing Chain
  • Intermediate - Crankshaft to Jackshaft Gear
Brand: Cloyes
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Mercury Mountaineer V 6 Cyl 4.0L 245 -
Mahle
2010 Mercury Mountaineer Engine Timing Chain 8 Cyl 4.6L Mahle

P311-398188C    W0133-1835881  New

Qty:
$101.20
Mahle Engine Timing Chain
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2010 - Mercury Mountaineer V 8 Cyl 4.6L 281 -
Mahle
2004 Mercury Marauder Engine Timing Chain Mahle

P311-398188C    W0133-1835881  New

Qty:
$101.20
Mahle Engine Timing Chain
  • Primary
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Mercury Marauder
Genuine
1998 Mercury Mountaineer Engine Timing Chain 6 Cyl 4.0L Genuine

P311-44486E4    W0133-1702620  New

Qty:
$72.24
Genuine Engine Timing Chain
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Crankshaft To Balance Shaft
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1998 - Mercury Mountaineer V 6 Cyl 4.0L 245 -
Genuine
2000 Mercury Mountaineer Engine Timing Chain 6 Cyl 4.0L Genuine

P311-03DC4F6    W0133-1702671  New

Qty:
$178.72
Genuine Engine Timing Chain
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Jackshaft to Camshaft Cassette
  • Right
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Mercury Mountaineer V 6 Cyl 4.0L 245 -
Cloyes
1968 Mercury Cougar Engine Timing Chain - Center 8 Cyl 5.0L Cloyes - Replacement Street Performance Chain

P311-50A08A8    9-145  New

20145

Qty:
$16.04
Cloyes Engine Timing Chain  Center
  • Engine Timing Chain
  • Link Quantity: 58 Rollers: Double
  • Replacement Street Performance Chain
  • Product Attributes:
    • Link Quantity: 58
    • Pitch: 1/4 In.
    • Rollers: Double
    • Timing Marks: 0
  • Sreet Performance 3/8" Pitch Double Roller Replacement True Roller Chain. Seamless 0.250" Roller Diameter. Heat Treated and Processed Links to Maximize Breaking Strength while Remaining Ductile for Toughness. Prestressed to Increase Fatigue Life. USA Made.
Brand: Cloyes
Position: Center
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
1968 - Mercury Cougar Center V 8 Cyl 5.0L 302 -
Cloyes
1980 Mercury Grand Marquis Engine Timing Chain - Center 8 Cyl 5.8L Cloyes - Replacement Street Performance Chain

P311-50A08A8    9-145  New

20145

Qty:
$16.04
Cloyes Engine Timing Chain  Center
  • Engine Timing Chain
  • Link Quantity: 58 Rollers: Double High Output Engine
  • Replacement Street Performance Chain
  • Product Attributes:
    • Link Quantity: 58
    • Pitch: 1/4 In.
    • Rollers: Double
    • Timing Marks: 0
  • Sreet Performance 3/8" Pitch Double Roller Replacement True Roller Chain. Seamless 0.250" Roller Diameter. Heat Treated and Processed Links to Maximize Breaking Strength while Remaining Ductile for Toughness. Prestressed to Increase Fatigue Life. USA Made.
Brand: Cloyes
Position: Center
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
1980 - Mercury Grand Marquis Center V 8 Cyl 5.8L 351 5753
Cloyes
1972 Mercury Comet Engine Timing Chain - Center 8 Cyl 5.0L Cloyes - Replacement Street Performance Chain

P311-50A08A8    9-145  New

20145

Qty:
$16.04
Cloyes Engine Timing Chain  Center
  • Engine Timing Chain
  • Link Quantity: 58 Rollers: Double To Early 1972
  • Replacement Street Performance Chain
  • Product Attributes:
    • Link Quantity: 58
    • Pitch: 1/4 In.
    • Rollers: Double
    • Timing Marks: 0
  • Sreet Performance 3/8" Pitch Double Roller Replacement True Roller Chain. Seamless 0.250" Roller Diameter. Heat Treated and Processed Links to Maximize Breaking Strength while Remaining Ductile for Toughness. Prestressed to Increase Fatigue Life. USA Made.
Brand: Cloyes
Position: Center
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
1972 - Mercury Comet Center V 8 Cyl 5.0L 302 -

Latest Mercury Repair and Timing Chain Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1978 Mercury Grand Marquis timing chain

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From 78merc on 1978 Mercury Grand Marquis timing chain

Hello. I have a 1978 Mercury Grand Marquis with a 460 V8. The car has 130K miles on it. A gentlemen at the auto parts store who seemed to know alot about late 70's Fords and Lincolns suggested that at 130K miles I should get a new timing chain. He based this on listening to the engine and the high mileage. He thinks I should do this ASAP or I could damage the engine. The engine seems fine to me, but I'm not a mechanic. The only problems I can tell is that it needs an accelator pump repair for the carb (I was told this by a local carb mech), and it idles a little high when its warmed up. It takes a while to start when cold, but this could probably be the accelator pump. Does getting a new timing chain seem like a necessary precautionary step to take with the car? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!

Response From nickwarner Top Rated Answer

These chains spend their whole life bathing in engine oil to keep them lubed. Your engine is not one that is revved to high RPM nor does it have a high-lift cam requiring stiff valvesprings. That chain is just fine most likely, and not worth just changing for the sake of changing it. You have met yet another parts store "expert."

Doing a 460 timing set on your car is a pretty easy task, but unnecessary to do just because of mileage. I've seen them in good shape still with twice the mileage. I'm glad you came here to ask before wasting your time and money doing that.

As far as your cold start goes, see if the choke is closing properly when you are at a cold start. This should have an electric choke and may not be working right. Last owner may have possibly set the idle adjustment higher to help compensate for that, but that would need to be looked at.

I'm not a carb guy, but we have some old-school guys here that will probably be dropping off their two cents on this and they have experience working on your type of setup.

Nice to see someone keeping one of these on the road. I used to have a 78 LTD with a 351W. Still miss that big boat. I was the only one of my friends that could parallel park it.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Again - Chains are not common on these unless it used a nylon cam gear and still there. Just maybe you can see it thru where the fuel pump mounts with that removed otherwise you wouldn't know till there and just do a new one.


Carb pump? If OE might be external, four screws and don't lose a spring inside there and done with it. That was common. Ask me via PM might have a new one on hand!




T

84 Mercury Cougar not firing but sparks

Showing 3 out of 24 Posts | Show 21 Hidden Posts
Question From sargerock on 84 Mercury Cougar not firing but sparks

1984 Mercury Cougar 5.0 8 cyl 170,000 miles carb.

was running fine till other day when just wouldnt start. turns over ok, good spark from coil and to plugs, new plug wires. gas flows to carberator when key is on,when i remove fitting before carb ..... but when accel is pumped, i see no gas coming from out of jets coming from duel carb. I can pour gas or starting fluid and still NO fire or any sort of kick over!!!!!!

thanks

Greg

ps also replaced ign coil and pressure regulator

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

OK, let me clear you up on a few things

First, if you have a 5.0, then you don't even have a carb, it's fuel injected and it has a timing chain, not a belt. It sounds like you may need someone else to diagnose this for you. I'll give you the procedure.


All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

Response From sargerock

dude, its a carb.....2 barrel...and theres no doubt, a motocraft

Response From sargerock

fuel is spewing up to carb when i turn on ignition, , pump accel cable, no fuel from jets.and i have ign key on...........i installed new coil, sparks are all good at all plugs, , and i replace all 3 belts including seep when car turns over, spark plug testor flashes good, but no fire with starter fluid. and again, it was a serp belt i rpl.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hammer spelled this out about as well as you'd see anywhere on the web! Spark, fuel, compression and you would have some reaction. I maintain that if the timing (valve) is so far off it won't react - got the T-shirt! Carb, injected or not almost doesn't makes a rat's a$$ right now!

T

Response From sargerock

ok i dont say i dont believe you, but yes it has a fuel pump in back next to fuel filter...it has 2 wires going to it.....and when u turn on ign it spews out...and it has a 2 barr carb..and the cars run since 1984 ....without any modifications...

sorry but i think i know what a carb looks like....like i said..ran fine till i parked at church for 20 min....then it started for like 10 sec....never fired since

Response From sargerock

and big words say motocraft on carb

Response From sargerock

what controls injector pulse ?

Response From sargerock

and putting starting fluid WITH a spark at all plugs still gives nothin

Response From Hammer Time

Is this what it looks like?

Response From Guest

yes

Response From Hammer Time

dude, its a carb.....2 barrel...and theres no doubt, a motocraft

sorry but i think i know what a carb looks like.

Well, apparently not because that was a picture of the Throttle Body fuel injection that the car came with.

Here is that same picture without the words "fuel injection" whited out. Maybe you'll listen next time.

Response From Guest

yes i am so wrong, i didnt even think of this being so old a car....woith the butterfly chokes n stuff it just reminded me of a carb...so if then,,,, what next? compression?

Response From sargerock

yes thats it :)

Response From Hammer Time

It will make a hell of a difference is someone was foolish enough to stick a carb in front of that electric fuel pump. He says it's pouring fuel out everywhere.

Response From Hammer Time

What's the 8th digit of the VIN#?

Response From sargerock

the letter f

Response From Hammer Time

If the VIN code is "F". then the car came with a fuel injected engine. You talk about fuel with the key on indicating an electric fuel pump. That is only used with fuel injection. If someone slapped a carb on that engine, it's not going to work.

Response From sargerock

1mebp92f.....

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Check compression to see it timing chain jumped,

T

Response From sargerock

its a belt not chain :)

Response From Tom Greenleaf

It's a chain and the OE had a nylon cam gear that would break up with age even with well cared for cars.

The 5.0 (302 cid) never used a belt TMK - part looks likes this and is a PITA to get water pump off to get to it if this is the current issue at all. If not it will be if an original chain set!
/

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hammer - are we cossing swords thru the air waves again? Took me longer to find the pic then YOU to write a reply!

Tis not unusual for the OE nylon gear to be erratic like this but would near certainly show uniform low compression and could snap out of that during a test causing all kinds of hair loss to diagnose. I know these gears if OE they don't usually do that much time!

T

Response From Hammer Time

I totally agree but at this point all we know about the problem is that we have spark. That leaves a lot of possibilities still.

Timing Belt issues

Showing 5 out of 5 Posts
Question From japkyle on Timing Belt issues

I have a 1998 Mercury Mystique. It has a 4 cyl 2.0 engine. The timing belt went out on it. I got the hanes manual and started the repair process. I have done numerous timing chains and belts with great success. My problem is that it calls for the crank shaft pully second mark to line up with the mark on the oil pan. When I do this, #1 piston is at BDC. It needs to be at TDC. There is also a timing hole blanking plug. It says to get the crank shaft positioned and then remove the plug and install the locking pin so that the crank shaft does not move. Why???? I am able to remove the crank shaft pully bolt with an impact wrench without it moving. I have tired installing the belt with the #1 piston at TDC and the cams lined as the book says. The car runs this way, but does not have the proper power. I tried moving the #1 piston to just before TDC. This gave me good low end power but no top end. I then tried the way the hanes manual said. The car will not start at all. Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.

Response From Hammer Time

This is a VCT engine and you cannot time it without the locking tools. Those are your only reference points so the VCT adjusters can be centered.

Response From japkyle

So, how do I get the mark on the crankshaft pulleyu to match the oil pan mark and still have #1 piston at TDC???

Response From Hammer Time

As the instructions state, you use the crankshaft stop bolt. There are no marks on the cam pulleys so it can't be done without the tools.

Response From nickwarner Top Rated Answer

The OTC timing tool kit for your engine is actually only about $37. I have the same engine in my girl's car and bought that toolkit. Any engine with VVT like yours uses tools like this instead of the timing marks of the older non-VVT engines. Wonderful technology, huh? If you go to the OTC tool website you can find the tool number and most parts stores should be able to get their hands on it for you.

'93 Mercury Cougar - Loud Knocking?

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From iameulogy on '93 Mercury Cougar - Loud Knocking?

I can start my car just fine. But after my car warms up, it starts a loud knocking sound. At low speeds it starts to stop if i push on the gas hard, but it comes back after it shifts. After driving it for a while, i go to park and it dies. Sometimes it starts right up afterwords, sometimes it takes 10-15 minutes. The oil was just changed and checked before I posted here. Also, my coolant is full, all fluids are fine. It hasnt died on me on the road driving, only when I come to a stop at stoplights. I'm not a complete newbie about cars, but i'm not a certified mechanic. Can anyone help? I have a 3.8 V6, new alternator, new battery, new battery cables, and when i got it, either someone did a heck of a job cleaning it, or I have a new engine and tranny under the hood. So i'm at a miss of what it could be..

Response From brbettge Top Rated Answer

besides(not in addition to) what dave told you you may have another problem.if this is a new/used engine that has just been installed the torque convertor bolts may be loose. these bolts actually connect your engine to the torque convertor. there may also be a crack or break in the flywheel..i have seen both of these many times and it does sound just like a rod knocking. the only other possibility i can come up with is a time chain slap. but the chain would have to be very loose for this and the car would not run well. check the bolts first and at the same time try to see any small "lines" running over your flywheel - kind of like someone drew lines with a pencil...these are cracks verified by scratching your fingernail over them you will feel them when this is done

Response From dave284

Most times when you hear the word (knock) and engine its not a good sign....at my best guess I would think rod bearings...I would suggest getting a oil pressure test and have the timing check too before investing any more money in parts

1990 Chevy Corsica stalling issue.

Showing 2 out of 8 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From Ironman on 1990 Chevy Corsica stalling issue.

I have a 1990 Chevy Corsica with 2.2L, TBI, 176,000 mi.
It had been running fine, I drive it 30 mi. one way to work everyday. One day going in no problems 12 hours later hard to start, extended cranking time, finally started but died immediately. A couple more tries each time long crank time running rough not wanting to Idle. About the 4th try seemed to smooth out fine, started down the road and in less than 1/2 mile it just died going down the road. Next day still not wanting to start, I shot some starting fluid into the throttle body, it fired right up but then died. Found that it would not idle or run at any steady throttle position but would run if I jockey the throttle open/close/open/close/etc. Installed a junkyard IAC valve no help, have verified original and replacement extend at high rpm idle, appear to work fine. I suspected a fuel delivery issue so I replaced fuel filter, no help. Next I installed a new fuel injector, no help. I verified fuel delivery from the pump but replaced it anyway. Cleaned the throttle body and fuel pressure regulator diaphragm and spring. Borrowed a fuel pressure tester holding 12 PSI steady. Checked voltage for TPS .6 volts at closed throttle smooth increase to 4.8 volts at open throttle. I checked for codes on OBD1 no codes present. During troubleshooting I discovered that the car will start and run on it's own if I leave the vacuum line for the MAP disconnected. Checked voltage output from the MAP 4.8 volts with no vacuum applied smooth decrease down to 1.1 volts with 20 inches of mercury applied. With the vacuum line disconnected the car starts and idles but idles faster than normal, also accelerates fine and runs at steady throttle. If I plug the vacuum line the idle slows to normal and the car will still run and accelerate and run at steady throttle. It usually dies after idling for a while but tends to run longer with the vacuum line open. If I disconnect the electrical connector to the MAP the car dies. The car stumbles under load with the vacuum disconnected from the MAP but returns to the original symptoms when the MAP is connected. I've also looked for vacuum leaks but can't find any and applied a vacuum gauge to the Map port from the throttle body and get 18-20 inches of mercury but it does kind of flutter between 18-20 instead of holding steady. It also dies if I apply vacuum to the MAP with a vacuum pump. It seems to actually increase in RPM up to about 5-7 inches of mercury but after that point it will die. think my ECM could be bad? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Forgot to add that the spark to all cylinders seems fine as far as I can tell.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

You probably need to look as sensor data, especially the adaptives and see what they are doing. See what the fuel pressure actually is and is it changing when the problem occurs. I would also do a compression test to see if you have any timing chain issues.

Response From Ironman

OK, it will probably be a week or so before I get another chance to work on it but I have another car that I can drive. This is my primary work car and I'd really like to get it going again but it isn't worth much so I prefer not to take it to a shop. I'll get back to you once I do a compression test. I don't have any type of scanner to look at sensor data in real time I was just looking at the CEL flashes with pins 1 & 2 shorted & the key on.

Response From Hammer Time

There's a lot more information to be had using a scanner than simply codes.

Response From Ironman

I don't have a scanner just shorting the pins to read codes. Is there a scanner out there that's reasonably cheap and can it display real time data? Remember this is an old car 1990 OBD1.

Response From Ironman

Last weekend I went to the salvage yard and got a used ECM. This has solved the problem.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

No argument with what works. Glad to hear you are up and running.

Let's lock this thread to avoid spammers. Opened at your request,

T

Response From Discretesignals

When you disconnected the MAP sensor vacuum, that causes the ECM to injector more fuel because it thinks the engine is under load. Your masking the fuel problem when you disconnect the MAP, so a vacuum leak isn't your problem.

What is the coolant sensor voltage when the engine is cold? ECT plays a huge role on a speed density engine, so you should check that out too.