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Best Selling Genuine Lincoln Timing Chains

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We stock Timing Chain parts for most Lincoln models, including LS, MKS, MKX, MKZ, Mark LT, Navigator, Town Car.

Cloyes
1994 Lincoln Continental Engine Timing Chain Cloyes

P311-121E214    W0133-1700438  New

Qty:
$44.47
Cloyes Engine Timing Chain
Brand: Cloyes
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1994 - Lincoln Continental
Genuine
2015 Lincoln MKZ Engine Timing Chain 4 Cyl 2.0L Genuine

P311-4228F80    W0133-1864081  New

Qty:
$65.32
Genuine Engine Timing Chain
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
2015 - Lincoln MKZ Naturally Aspirated L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 1999
Mahle
2011 Lincoln Town Car Engine Timing Chain Mahle

P311-398188C    W0133-1835881  New

Qty:
$101.20
Mahle Engine Timing Chain
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2011 - Lincoln Town Car
Cloyes
2014 Lincoln Navigator Engine Timing Chain Cloyes

P311-2732EFE    W0133-1835879  New

Qty:
$53.09
Cloyes Engine Timing Chain
Brand: Cloyes
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2014 - Lincoln Navigator
Mahle
2014 Lincoln Navigator Engine Timing Chain Mahle

P311-430E9BF    W0133-1835879  New

Qty:
$73.67
Mahle Engine Timing Chain
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2014 - Lincoln Navigator
Cloyes
2004 Lincoln Navigator Engine Timing Chain Cloyes

P311-2732EFE    W0133-1835879  New

Qty:
$53.09
Cloyes Engine Timing Chain
  • Primary
Brand: Cloyes
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Lincoln Navigator
Mahle
2004 Lincoln Navigator Engine Timing Chain Mahle

P311-430E9BF    W0133-1835879  New

Qty:
$73.67
Mahle Engine Timing Chain
  • Primary
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Lincoln Navigator
Cloyes
1980 Lincoln Continental Engine Timing Chain - Center 8 Cyl 5.0L Cloyes - Replacement Street Performance Chain

P311-50A08A8    9-145  New

20145

Qty:
$16.04
Cloyes Engine Timing Chain  Center
  • Engine Timing Chain
  • Link Quantity: 58 Rollers: Double
  • Replacement Street Performance Chain
  • Product Attributes:
    • Link Quantity: 58
    • Pitch: 1/4 In.
    • Rollers: Double
    • Timing Marks: 0
  • Sreet Performance 3/8" Pitch Double Roller Replacement True Roller Chain. Seamless 0.250" Roller Diameter. Heat Treated and Processed Links to Maximize Breaking Strength while Remaining Ductile for Toughness. Prestressed to Increase Fatigue Life. USA Made.
Brand: Cloyes
Position: Center
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
1980 - Lincoln Continental Center V 8 Cyl 5.0L 302 -
Cloyes
2011 Lincoln Navigator Engine Timing Chain - Center 8 Cyl 5.4L Cloyes

P311-4485E21    C391  New

F6TZ6268AA , 9391 , 5L3Z6268A

Qty:
$35.57
Cloyes Engine Timing Chain  Center
  • ENGINE TIMING CHAIN
  • Chain Row Quantity: 1 Link Quantity: 122 Overall Length: 22 5/8"
  • Product Attributes:
    • Link Quantity: 122
    • Overall Length: 22 5/8"
    • Pitch: 3/8 In.
    • Width: 0.55"
  • Pre-Stressed And Heat-Treated For Increased Durability. Precision Cut Links With Smooth Finish. Precision Pitch Control For Proper Chain To Sprocket Tooth Fit.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Cloyes
Position: Center
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Region Position Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Lincoln Navigator United States Center V 8 Cyl 5.4L 330 -
Cloyes
1998 Lincoln Navigator Engine Timing Chain - Center 8 Cyl 5.4L Cloyes

P311-4485E21    C391  New

F6TZ6268AA , 9391 , 5L3Z6268A

Qty:
$35.57
Cloyes Engine Timing Chain  Center
  • ENGINE TIMING CHAIN
  • Chain Row Quantity: 1 Link Quantity: 122 Overall Length: 22 5/8" Primary
  • Product Attributes:
    • Link Quantity: 122
    • Overall Length: 22 5/8"
    • Pitch: 3/8 In.
    • Width: 0.55"
  • Pre-Stressed And Heat-Treated For Increased Durability. Precision Cut Links With Smooth Finish. Precision Pitch Control For Proper Chain To Sprocket Tooth Fit.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Cloyes
Position: Center
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Cylinder Head Type Position Block Engine CID CC
1998 - Lincoln Navigator SOHC Center V 8 Cyl 5.4L 330 -

Latest Lincoln Repair and Timing Chain Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

lincoln wont start

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From breebreesdaddy on lincoln wont start

pulling out of driveway and my 93 towncar died. it has a 4.6 motor, and 170,000 miles. never had any trouble with it. i thought that it was the timing chain... so i tore it down. it has dual timing chains, and both are fine. it has spark and fuel when turning it over... it just wont start. any suggestions as to what it could be?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

EEEEE!! You have spark fuel and probably timing and a NO RUN?? From here I would try some starter fluid in its air horn and if it reacts then I would blame fuel pressure or pump. Let us know, Lincoln Tom here!, T

Response From breebreesdaddy

no good on the starting fluid... been there already. any other thoughts?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Now I would move to timing and the devices that control it, T

1978 Mercury Grand Marquis timing chain

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From 78merc on 1978 Mercury Grand Marquis timing chain

Hello. I have a 1978 Mercury Grand Marquis with a 460 V8. The car has 130K miles on it. A gentlemen at the auto parts store who seemed to know alot about late 70's Fords and Lincolns suggested that at 130K miles I should get a new timing chain. He based this on listening to the engine and the high mileage. He thinks I should do this ASAP or I could damage the engine. The engine seems fine to me, but I'm not a mechanic. The only problems I can tell is that it needs an accelator pump repair for the carb (I was told this by a local carb mech), and it idles a little high when its warmed up. It takes a while to start when cold, but this could probably be the accelator pump. Does getting a new timing chain seem like a necessary precautionary step to take with the car? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!

Response From nickwarner Top Rated Answer

These chains spend their whole life bathing in engine oil to keep them lubed. Your engine is not one that is revved to high RPM nor does it have a high-lift cam requiring stiff valvesprings. That chain is just fine most likely, and not worth just changing for the sake of changing it. You have met yet another parts store "expert."

Doing a 460 timing set on your car is a pretty easy task, but unnecessary to do just because of mileage. I've seen them in good shape still with twice the mileage. I'm glad you came here to ask before wasting your time and money doing that.

As far as your cold start goes, see if the choke is closing properly when you are at a cold start. This should have an electric choke and may not be working right. Last owner may have possibly set the idle adjustment higher to help compensate for that, but that would need to be looked at.

I'm not a carb guy, but we have some old-school guys here that will probably be dropping off their two cents on this and they have experience working on your type of setup.

Nice to see someone keeping one of these on the road. I used to have a 78 LTD with a 351W. Still miss that big boat. I was the only one of my friends that could parallel park it.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Again - Chains are not common on these unless it used a nylon cam gear and still there. Just maybe you can see it thru where the fuel pump mounts with that removed otherwise you wouldn't know till there and just do a new one.


Carb pump? If OE might be external, four screws and don't lose a spring inside there and done with it. That was common. Ask me via PM might have a new one on hand!




T

2000 Lincoln LS

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From domfast2003 on 2000 Lincoln LS

Okay, so i have a 2000 Lincoln LS V8 3.9L and the timing chains broke when i was starting it. Valve broke a whole in the piston so i bought a wrecked 2002 Lincoln LS V8 3.9L car and took the engine out of it and put in my car. Kept my transmission due to the fact i never had any issues with it. Got the engine running and it runs great. Problem is, It saying check transmission and instead of saying P for park, its saying E. When you take it of of park and put it in reverse it works fine. Reverse is normal. Put it in drive and try to take off and it feels sorta like a burned up clutch. Real hard to get going. Almost have to have the gas pedal to the floor. Once you get it going it wont shift. I have checked all the sensor plugs and i got everything hooked back up correctly. Didn't pinch the wiring harness or anything. Checked the fluid, Its full. So i ran a scanner on it. All it told me is pretty much that i dont have a transmission in the car... It isnt ready any of the sensors. Only thing i could thing of was the computer. So i changed out the computer. Still does it. Anyone with any ideas please please help me. This is my only car and i have already lost my job because i cant find anyone to give me a ride to work which is thirty miles away from home. Im struggling to keep up payments on the car due to the fact i have dumped about three grand into this car now. So any help please. Kyle

Response From zmame

well if you changed out the computer supprised it starts at all you need to program your PCM to all the other modules and PATS keys also need to be programmed.

May be conflict issue from PCM>IC who knows. More then likely there is a harness that is disconnected or damaged. Still should work with the orig PCM hooked up if everything is ok.



http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/1736/eyxen04u.gifd

Response From speed Top Rated Answer

thankyou for confimring my theory zmame.

Response From speed

my guess is that you need to have the ECU reprogrammed and "mated" to the transmission form the new engine or the ECU formn the old engine "mated" to the new engine. im not sure but i believe that has to be done on cars nowadays. also check the linkage to make usre its adjusted correctly.

2006 lincoln zephyr multiple misfire and noise

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From ekearney22 on 2006 lincoln zephyr multiple misfire and noise

Hi I'm New to forums I have 2006 Lincoln zephyr 3.0 . Yesterday I drive 200 miles to different appointments and noticed while driving a different sound in my engine. The sound is hard to explain kind of like a dull acceleration, like no power sound but car was running great no flaws besides normal transmission bull that it always does. I parked the car for an hour and started it up and the car shook terribly and was idling really rough. Almost to stall but never stalled. I drove car around block it had almost zero power and that sound was even louder . I noticed a knocking sound also coming from under the intake manifold ( 1,2,3 cyl) I hooked up code reader and it wasthrowing multiple misfire on cyl 456 also had weird code of theft detected engine disabled?? I changed spark plugs nothing like I expected, it's really going to blue my mind if all three coils went I highly highly diught it. The knock isnt consistent its sporadic more or less. That's really concerning me. Oil was low I added quart n half. Does anyone have any information to help me here I've tried searching nothing came up that's like my situation. I'm stumped that all three on bank 2 ( 4,5,6 cyl) just went.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

I would find it hard to believe if all three coil on that bank went bad at the same time. If it was a wiring issue with a coil or injector, it would have flagged circuit codes.

Possible catayst may have plugged up on that bank. A back pressure test would prove that. They also have problems with timing chain tensioner bleeding down allowing the chain to skip which could throw that bank out of time. Either pulling the front cover off and doing a visual or using a labscope to see if cam and crank signals are in sync would tell you if it jumped time.

need help or answer about moduel 83 Mark

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From buckhunter on need help or answer about moduel 83 Mark

I have a 83 Lincoln mark 6 5.0, the moduel on the fender, has a plug in and a plug out, with the key on , the plug in has 1 hot wire and 1 cold, on the plug out, it has 4 male studs,two are hot and two are cold, is that right?? or should they all be hot ?? Thanks so much for your time. Bill

Response From Tom Greenleaf

What is wrong that you are checking this module for? Is this just a rela

T

Response From buckhunter Top Rated Answer

Hi Tom, Thanks for your time, I should have said it was the ignition module, well I took that to auto zone yesterday and had it tested and it pasted, as for what is going on, I am trying to get this 83 mark back on the road for class as it is the last full size lincoln mark 2 door made, the body is like new in and out but I can`t keep it running, well it will not start unless I put gas in the throttle body by hand, if I do it will start and run till I turn it off, then it will not start on its own,so it is not a hot or cold thing, as for what I have changed boy easier to say what I did not change, I have changed, Throttle body-throttle position sensor- fuel pressure regulator- fuel pump ( in tank )- fuel filter-ignition coil- crankshaft position sensor- voltage regulator- timing chain- solenoid- ignition module- EGR valve- Map sensor circuit- there is also 4 sensors 2 on each fender, I changed them also,1 head lights 1 fuel pump, not sure what the other 2 are for but there changed, So Tom you asked you got it !! the one thing I can think of but don`t know how it works is, " What tells the injection to open or spray the fuel in the throttle body to start? I guess that is the trouble as I said when I pour gas in it will start, it just will not dump the gas in to start on its own, I have been worken on this for five years Tom I sure hope you have some idea, Thanks again Tom.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hi,

I do know a fair amount about the old Lincoln's and not so much with the Marks but this ones shares a lot with the Town Cars that I do know fairly well.

You've replaced enough stuff for now that I'll consider ruled out so let's see what's the possible gremlin now.

Runs when primed but won't restart on it's own cold or warm. This leads to a fuel pressure problem.

Here's some ideas: Battery is marginal and the power for the fuel pump can't keep up a decent minimum pressure while cranking but as soon as an engine starts the alternator is pumping power back in so it behaves. Check for voltage drop at the battery while the starter is cranking - this would be interesting. If this alone was the problem a good jump start would work.

Relays are a pill on these. They aren't marked but they do use colors at the skirts of the relay and the connectors I think. Green is for the fuel pump. It may be making a lousy contact and not providing enough amps. Originals won't fit each other but you can get a generic aftermarket one that will fit them all. I forget the part # but it's like Echlin's # AR242 or something - you'll need to ask and it's worth a try. The relays are on the driver's fender under a plastic rain sheild on the TCs and Crown Vics, Grand Marquis and can just be bent up to access or an 8mm or 5/16 couple nuts take the braket away so you can fuss to remove them with like a 1/8th slotted screwdriver. I'm guessing they are the same style as most the 80s full size Ford products. It's really worth getting one as it will fit all the others and if it doesn't fix the problem save it as I do - each of my two driver's have spares in glovebox - they are that much trouble with some of these. Sometimes just a good whack on them with the plastic of a screwdriver handle snaps them to for a while - not a fix. They look like old ignition points inside and are not servicable.

There should be a shut down resettable switch in the trunk with a red plunger - perhaps hidden on driver's side in or around the trunk hinge or behind some side carpet toward rear quarter panel. That might be making a bad contact even if not tripped fully. AYOR - if just a two wire switch unplugging it and jumping the plug connector defeats it. Don't leave it that way - just for testing for a moment!

They did that for the muliport FI systems and I'm not sure what the fuel delivery set up is for 83. Does this use central fuel injection or have the individual injectors - Marks did thing a year or more before the other similar full size Ford cars.

Hope this is the right direction for the possible trouble now. Just what I mentioned is cheap or free to try. Those relays should be about $15 bucks or less now,

T

Response From buckhunter

Hi Tom, well it just so happen I was out trying to find something on the Mark, no good, so I came in and found your reply, Thanks, Ok let me reply to yours now, first off the battery is kind of new, and I have a float charge on it so it stays full charged all the time as I fool with it when ever I can, so I need to be sure the battery is up, next, Yes the fuel is the green one, I already changed that as well as the one next to it and the ones on the driver side, As for the shut down ' inertia " switch in the trunk, I checked that also, and then I un,hooked the fuel line on the frame and turn on the key and gas flew everywhere so that is ok, last but not least, yes it has the central fuel injection, two injectors in top of throttle body, I feel that is where the trouble is, I am sure there is something that tells the injector to spray gas in to start and what ever it is its not worken, but I don`t know what tells it to spray, and seems know one else knows ether as I been asking everybody, as for cost of any parts I have to much in it now to quit, hell if I don`t get it running before I die I am getting buryed in it.LOL, Ok Buddy see if you can remember anything else I can try, Thanks Bill

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ok: Here's one problem I have. Out of literally hundreds of similar fuel delivery systems in Ford products not one ever had this exact behaviour and there simply must be some sensor or device that delivers fuel differently just during the cranking mode. I just plain don't know what that would be so I need help now too. I would bet that you would notice a fuel pressure drop while cranking or no pulse to injection just during cranking and again I don't know what controls that.

Some assorted cars that did this cranked fast enough that they would just "catch" when you let go of the starter and you could go from there. Most of that could be solved by just leaving key in "run" position till fuel pressure built up and was available for cranking instantly which basically solved the problem without further investigation.

You may have injector leak down or somehow air pressure is only at the fuel pressured line for that important second as you said if you primed it the couple seconds it runs on the prime allowed it to switch over to a running settings.

Had I already been thru this I would know right where to test for what but don't - dammit. Either fuel pressure is lost or pulse to injectors is OFF for that period of cranking. Perhaps a wire at the starter motor is directed to something to activate things for just the crank mode. Even in 83 there are thing to disable the engine from running and dump fuel out a broken line like in an accident - the enertia swich does that. I don't know what or where the trigger to shut it down is as it never happened.

I'm also short of the best diagrams and info for all cars. Some of the guys might have it here or just know where to look.

I hope they have read this far - we get busy and sometimes don't follow along when one knows another is on a situation.

Could be a passerby reading this thread who knows or the regulars here that I think are most likely to have more help would be ............. What I'll do is make a new thread that refers to this one and I/we need some help - ok?

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

http://autoforums.carjunky.com/cgi-bin/gforum.cgi?post=27105;#27105 <<<<

Bill,

Guys have helped already and let this continue at the thread above. Has a help line # and we should be done with this problem in short order I hope. There is a "prime" mode I was unaware of - just follow that thread for now.

I'm a Lincoln nut for select models as is well known by some regulars at the site I wan't to know how to fix this too! If difficult to get a part new or used and the same fits an 89 TC let me know - I'm parting one out and you can have the part for shipping!

T