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Best Selling Genuine Kia Timing Chains

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We stock Timing Chain parts for most Kia models, including Forte, Optima, Rio, Sedona, Sorento, Soul, Spectra, Sportage.

Genuine
2006 Kia Optima Engine Timing Chain Genuine

P311-489C747    W0133-1780725  New

Qty:
$113.80
Genuine Engine Timing Chain
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN
2006 - Kia Optima 6
Genuine
2010 Kia Optima Engine Timing Chain 4 Cyl 2.4L Genuine

P311-489C747    W0133-1780725  New

Qty:
$113.80
Genuine Engine Timing Chain
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -08/01/2010
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
2010 - Kia Optima L 4 Cyl 2.4L - 2359 To:08-01-10
Genuine
2013 Kia Sportage Engine Timing Chain 4 Cyl 2.4L Genuine

P311-489C747    W0133-1780725  New

Qty:
$113.80
Genuine Engine Timing Chain
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Crank To Cam
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2013 - Kia Sportage L 4 Cyl 2.4L - 2359
Genuine
2015 Kia Forte Engine Timing Chain 4 Cyl 1.8L Genuine

P311-51E99A6    W0133-2014487  New

Qty:
$148.83
Genuine Engine Timing Chain
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2015 - Kia Forte L 4 Cyl 1.8L - 1797
Genuine
2016 Kia Forte Engine Timing Chain 4 Cyl 1.8L Genuine

P311-51E99A6    W0133-2014487  New

Qty:
$148.83
Genuine Engine Timing Chain
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Crank To Cam
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2016 - Kia Forte L 4 Cyl 1.8L - 1797
Genuine
2010 Kia Sportage Engine Timing Chain 4 Cyl 2.0L Genuine

P311-51D7F87    W0133-1967024  New

Qty:
$42.57
Genuine Engine Timing Chain
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • CVVT Engine
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2010 - Kia Sportage L 4 Cyl 2.0L - 1975
Genuine
2008 Kia Sportage Engine Timing Chain 4 Cyl 2.0L Genuine

P311-51D7F87    W0133-1967024  New

Qty:
$42.57
Genuine Engine Timing Chain
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2008 - Kia Sportage L 4 Cyl 2.0L - 1975
Genuine
2012 Kia Optima Engine Timing Chain Genuine

P311-2C116BA    W0133-2205455  New

Qty:
Genuine Engine Timing Chain
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2012 - Kia Optima
Genuine
2017 Kia Optima Engine Timing Chain Genuine

P311-2C116BA    W0133-2205455  New

Qty:
Genuine Engine Timing Chain
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Crank To Cam
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN
2017 - Kia Optima 2
Genuine
2011 Kia Rio Engine Timing Chain Genuine

P311-48E9933    W0133-1782493  New

Qty:
$48.83
Genuine Engine Timing Chain
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Camshaft to Camshaft
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2011 - Kia Rio
Genuine
2012 Kia Sedona Engine Timing Chain Genuine

P311-53FAA38    W0133-1780724  New

Qty:
$114.80
Genuine Engine Timing Chain
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2012 - Kia Sedona
Genuine
2014 Kia Sedona Engine Timing Chain Genuine

P311-53FAA38    W0133-1780724  New

Qty:
$114.80
Genuine Engine Timing Chain
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Crank To Cam
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2014 - Kia Sedona
Original Equipment
2012 Kia Optima Engine Timing Chain Original Equipment

P311-346F337    W0133-2205455  New

Qty:
$117.60
Original Equipment Engine Timing Chain
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Original Equipment
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2012 - Kia Optima
Original Equipment
2017 Kia Optima Engine Timing Chain Original Equipment

P311-346F337    W0133-2205455  New

Qty:
$117.60
Original Equipment Engine Timing Chain
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Crank To Cam
Brand: Original Equipment
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN
2017 - Kia Optima 2
Genuine
2010 Kia Sportage Engine Timing Chain 4 Cyl 2.0L Genuine

P311-3C0B100    W0133-1630744  New

Qty:
$42.57
Genuine Engine Timing Chain
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Non-CVVT Engine
  • This timing chain is not the main mechanism operating the cam sprockets.The main mechanism is belt driven and runs off the intake cam sprocket. This chain runs the exhaust cam shaft from sprockets located at the rear of the camshafts.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2010 - Kia Sportage L 4 Cyl 2.0L - 1975
Original Equipment
2010 Kia Sportage Engine Timing Chain 6 Cyl 2.7L Original Equipment

P311-172D82C    W0133-1649754  New

Qty:
$34.83
Original Equipment Engine Timing Chain
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Original Equipment
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2010 - Kia Sportage V 6 Cyl 2.7L - 2656

Latest Kia Repair and Timing Chain Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1998 Kia Sportage wont start

Showing 2 out of 13 Posts | Show 11 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on 1998 Kia Sportage wont start

I need help with my Kia Sportage 1998, I was in the process of moving from CA to Colorado with my wife and 2 sons. I was lucky enough to get to Tuscon AZ where my sister lives before I broke down.

My engine will crank but I cannot get the vehicle to idle. It sounds like the engine isnt getting any fuel, and I asume the problem lies with the fuel injectors. I am trying to dismantle the engine in order to get to the injectors but I am cautious. Please help if you can help me.

I have changed the spark plugs and coil wires. I have changed my fuel filter and tested my pump. These components are working fine. I also took some advise from this site and I cleaned up the relay switches and The engine does not fire. I have also sprayed starter fluid into the chokes in the engine -that didnt work. What can I do to start the engine??? Someone please help!!!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Friend, there isn't much about this post that makes sense. The car made it to Tucson presumably from CA but doesn't start?

" cranks but doesn't idle??, cleaned relays - How?? Fuel pump checked ok - how?? - you are going to dismantle the engine to replace fuel injectors?? - have at it, start from the drain plug and go up ''

Can you explain what's going on a little more?

T

Response From Guest

I have had my Kia for about 9 months now. It worked fine until 2 weeks ago when we got into tuscon from moving from Modesto, California I was entering onto the interstate and noticed my Kia was losing power. It was accelerating at a much slower speed than it had been earlier. I was only able to get it up to about 45 miles per hour when the power ouput stopped. The engine was still turning and with a full throttle I was not getting any more RPM's than if I was idling. I managed to pull over and as soon as I had stopped the engine stopped as well.
Since then I have taken off the lower fuel line and checked if my fuel pump works. It spurts out the gas so to me that looks as if it is working. I changed out the fuel filter for a new one because there had been a little bit of resistance when I blew out the remaining gas it held. I could not get to the top part of the fuel line and felt that perhaps it was my spark plugs. I cranked the engine but it would not start and hold the idle. On only 5 occassions have I been able to get it to start. Once it had remained on for about 10-15 seconds but it did not rev past 3000 RPM's, at this point I am holding it at full throttle but it died of its own accord and the engine once again felt very sluggish while it was working for that short period. The four other times it only caught for 3 seconds or so each time and it would just not burn the fuel I had the throttle delivering and it would sputter and stop.
That made me think it was not getting enough fire. After removing my plugs I noticed that the two in the front needed replacing and that one of my coils was damaged. The terminal in the boot was burnt black and had broken to heat juding from the burnt up rubber laying about inside of the boot. The one in the back is fine but those two spark plugs it sent power to were flooded with engine oil. I cleaned those two out and then replaced them. At this point I was happy thinking I had finally found was the matter but the engine still will not idle. I have plenty of spark so my hunch is it is not getting fuel and I think I need to look at the top fuel line or the injectors but I have no idea what to do with them once I see them to determine if they need to be changed or can successfully be cleaned. From the sound of the engine I can tell as I am cranking it is burning up some fuel it almost wants to start.

Response From rawqstorm

I created my account so I can respond quicker to questions. I read the arctle on http://autoforums.carjunky.com/cgi-bin/gforum.cgi?post=2905;search_string=sportage;guest=4189923#2905 and I followed what he had done to clean out the relay fuses I had in my engine fuse box. I won't totally dismantle the engine but it sure feels like I have started doing so to get to my spark plugs. I found a repair manual on where to locate my fuel injectors and the end of the top fuel line so that I can at least make an attempt to determine if fuel is making it to the top of the fuel line before I try to make a move to remove the hulk of iron that is covering up the fuel injectors but from this drawning it almost looks as if they are inside the block of the engine. So far I am able to see the top of the intake exhaust that looks like the chokes on an old carburator.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

It has spark and fuel - pressure unknown and doesn't run. Starting fluid didn't react - right? That doesn't always work.

The question now points to timing I think. Is the timing belt maintenance up to date? When they seem like they want to start and the lost power described earlier it sounds like maybe it jumped. If it broke completely it would sound all different when cranking. That's where I'd be looking now. How many miles on this car?

T

Response From rawqstorm Top Rated Answer

I have roughly about 168,000 on the car. The motor oil was completely black when I initially had it changed and it looked equally as bad the last time I had it changed two weeks ago before the trip. I even had the transmission oil changed and that stuff looked as black as the motor oil had when it was changed. I was told the transmission oil looked burned. Anyhow, when I had stalled out on the side of the road a motorist stopped that stated he worked for a dealership and he gave my some assistance he only popped open enough of the timing cover to be able to see the top of the chain as I tried to get the engine to start and by his observation it looked ok. He even pulled out a hand held computer to plug into my Kia computer and I did not have the foresight to get the error codes he was showing me. From my recollection I had three, one said auxillary inputs "something", the other two read the same fuel air "something" error. I thought that meant my O2 sensor was out of whack but my intention at that point was to let the mechanic figure it out and his final suggestion was that it was my fuel pump. Well It looks as if I will need to make some copies of this chilton book for my kia to see if I can handle checking and tuning my timing chain.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

http://www.autozone.com/home.htm <<<<< This should show the AutoZone page. Just select your vehicle and engine and I think you will find it's a rubber belt not a chain. Either way that's enough miles to worry about that. The engine oil if neglected would look dirty again soon and would take a few very early changes to clean up. Trans fluid being burnt is NOT a good thing - (remember Martha Stewart?) - any engine that runs poorly will throw codes - it's the one that first caused it that really counts. Just leave a plug wire off and drive and you get codes that won't say "plug wire off" - some will tell you which cylinder is trouble but I doubt this car does that,

T

Response From rawqstorm

I took my car to MIDAS and they did two diagnostic tests. The results were reported to me over the phone stating that I had about 90 lbs of compression on my 2.0 4 cylinder engine. That it was not enough to get the car to stay on. They verified I had spark and gas. They checked and aligned my timing belt that I tried to adjust and was unable to get correctly. I had one tooth off on the crankshaft, I was aware of that but was informed it shouldnt have mattered enough to have not allowed the engine to turn on. The error codes were due to a fualty O2 sensor and some sort of throttle reading sensor, both would not be a reason to not allow the Kia to start. I was told it could either be the head gasket, valves could be bent, or something else internal. The gentleman asked if I had seen smoke when the engine stopped and there was no smoke so he aluded to it being the valves then or something else that might have broken, such as the block itself but i didnt see oil all over the engine for i to be that. I can take the engine apart I know this and I am a visual person so it is not hard for me to recall where something goes once i take it apart. I feel confident I can get to the valves however I have not done this type of repair would you opinate that as a layman with the correct tools I could possibly fix it myself instead of racking up a 1,500 to 3,500 thousand car repair? I know where the books are to get the removal procedures. Or should I just scrap the car and take my loss? Any input would be great

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If you paid for diagnostics that included a compression check why are they guessing now? 90 for compression?? All cylinders? valve timing off could do that or evenly bent valves perhaps. The test should have pinned down the problem more than just saying its low.

If you suspect valves you would pressurize the cylinders on TDC and see where the air blows out - no real rocket science there.

You still need a diagnosis before you just tear into it. If you want to try to fix this engine I suggest getting your own download of AllData for just that car. $25 bucks and it should have every detail you need.

If you find this engine really has some extensive damage then price out a whole used motor from a reputable salvage yard. There's no telling what you may run into trying to tear into this one. Your call,

T

Response From rawqstorm

Thanks Tom,
I feel I should press Midas for more information and request that they have the documents for the diagnostics given to me. All the information I reported in the post was given to me verbally over the phone. I didn't mention that they did put oil into the spark plug or plugs I cant recall well enough what exactly was said, but it didn't get the compression to read over 90 lbs. He mentioned that he didn't suspect the piston rings. Since no smoke was produced he felt the head gasket was good. So he didn't rule out the valves. As you say they would have a good indication as to what valves would be the ones to look at I will see what I can get out of MIDAS and give you another shout soon.

Response From Tom Greenleaf



When you get the full report from this place let us know With the oil squirt not changing compression and the timing belt found off I'd bet you will find damaged valves if all cylinders test the same and it's now on time. This could explain the dirty oil, burned trans fluid from running too hot too long. Correction would likely be sending the head out or a replacement. When off a good look at pistons would tell if it's not worth going further at all.

A head gasket isn't likely to cause low compression on all cylinders - uniform valve damage or valve timing could.

I'm pretty sure that's what will be found. Your call of course on what to do about it,

T

Response From Guest

Did this problem get solved?
Have just aquired 98 Sportage with overheating from heater bypass pipe leaking and still trying to get started.

Thanks

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Guest: Please start a new thread - this is over a year old now. What is your issue - the leak, not starting or both? Please just make a new thread on your issue......

T