802.589.0911 Live Chat With Us

Shop Bmw Timing Belts

Choose Vehicle Year

Finish Selecting Your Vehicle to Shop For Your Timing Belt

Choose a Year for your BMW 's Timing Belt

  • 1993
  • 1992
  • 1991
  • 1990
  • 1989
  • 1988
  • 1987
  • 1986
  • 1985
  • 1984
  • 1983
  • 1982

Shop By Brand

The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • Beck Arnley
    Beck Arnley
  • CRP
    CRP
  • ContiTech
    ContiTech
  • Dayco
    Dayco
  • Gates
    Gates

Best Selling Genuine Bmw Timing Belts

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Beck Arnley, Dayco, CRP, Gates, ContiTech
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Bmw Replacement Timing Belt Parts

We stock Timing Belt parts for most Bmw models, including 325i, 325is, 525i.

Beck Arnley
1987 BMW 325is Engine Timing Belt 6 Cyl 2.5L Beck Arnley

P311-370368A    026-0198  New

Qty:
$21.05
Beck Arnley Engine Timing Belt
  • Interference Engine
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1987 - BMW 325is L 6 Cyl 2.5L 152 2494
Beck Arnley
1987 BMW 325es Engine Timing Belt 6 Cyl 2.7L Beck Arnley

P311-370368A    026-0198  New

Qty:
$21.05
Beck Arnley Engine Timing Belt
  • Interference Engine; 128 Teeth
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1987 - BMW 325es L 6 Cyl 2.7L - 2693
Beck Arnley
1988 BMW 528e Engine Timing Belt 6 Cyl 2.7L Beck Arnley

P311-370368A    026-0198  New

Qty:
$21.05
Beck Arnley Engine Timing Belt
  • Interference Engine; 127 Teeth
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1988 - BMW 528e L 6 Cyl 2.7L - 2693
Dayco
1991 BMW 325iX Engine Timing Belt Dayco - Timing Belt

P311-2CEE20B    95131  New

250131 , 95131 , TB131 , 11 31 1 268 168 , 40131 , 026-0239 , B131 , TB-131 , 45-01689 , CD131 , 88131 , R0131 , CD-131 , 11 31 1 272 384 2 , 1.713.361 , 11 31 1 713 361 , T131 , 25-90880 , 1.711.082 , 11 31 1 711 082

Qty:
$13.95
Dayco Engine Timing Belt
  • Camshaft Interference Engine Recommended Replacement 60,000 miles, Normal Driving Conditions
  • Timing Belt
  • Product Attributes:
    • Effective Length:
      • 1044
      • 41.11
    • Tooth Pitch:
      • .32362
      • 8.220
    • Tooth Profile: Round Tooth
    • Top Width: 0.99
Brand: Dayco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1991 - BMW 325iX
Dayco
1993 BMW 325i Engine Timing Belt Dayco - Timing Belt

P311-2CEE20B    95131  New

250131 , 95131 , TB131 , 11 31 1 268 168 , 40131 , 026-0239 , B131 , TB-131 , 45-01689 , CD131 , 88131 , R0131 , CD-131 , 11 31 1 272 384 2 , 1.713.361 , 11 31 1 713 361 , T131 , 25-90880 , 1.711.082 , 11 31 1 711 082

Qty:
$13.95
Dayco Engine Timing Belt
  • Camshaft Interference Engine Recommended Replacement 50,000 miles, Normal Driving Conditions
  • Timing Belt
  • Product Attributes:
    • Effective Length:
      • 1044
      • 41.11
    • Tooth Pitch:
      • .32362
      • 8.220
    • Tooth Profile: Round Tooth
    • Top Width: 0.99
Brand: Dayco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body
1993 - BMW 325i Convertible
Dayco
1992 BMW 325i Engine Timing Belt Dayco - Timing Belt

P311-2CEE20B    95131  New

250131 , 95131 , TB131 , 11 31 1 268 168 , 40131 , 026-0239 , B131 , TB-131 , 45-01689 , CD131 , 88131 , R0131 , CD-131 , 11 31 1 272 384 2 , 1.713.361 , 11 31 1 713 361 , T131 , 25-90880 , 1.711.082 , 11 31 1 711 082

Qty:
$13.95
Dayco Engine Timing Belt
  • Camshaft Recommended Replacement 50,000 miles, Normal Driving Conditions
  • Timing Belt
  • Product Attributes:
    • Effective Length:
      • 1044
      • 41.11
    • Tooth Pitch:
      • .32362
      • 8.220
    • Tooth Profile: Round Tooth
    • Top Width: 0.99
Brand: Dayco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body
1992 - BMW 325i Convertible
CRP
1986 BMW 325 Engine Timing Belt - Camshaft 6 Cyl 2.7L CRP

P311-324FC15    TB131  New

Qty:
$15.50
CRP Engine Timing Belt Camshaft
  • ContiTech OE Quality Timing Belt
  • Interference Eng.
  • ContiTech OE Quality Timing Belts utilize the latest in design and material technology, ensuring a quiet and maintenance free experience.
Brand: CRP
Position: Camshaft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
1986 - BMW 325 Camshaft L 6 Cyl 2.7L - 2693
Gates
1982 BMW 528e Engine Timing Belt 6 Cyl 2.7L Gates - PowerGrip Premium OE Timing Belt

P311-086B235    T131  New

222131 , CD131 , 11311469240 , 95131 , 45-01689 , 250131 , 6589089 , 11311713361 , 95131FN , OHC131 , 40131 , LB131 , TB-131 , 026-0239 , 11311711082 , TB131 , 94139 , B131 , 1713361 , CD-131 , B0131 , T131 , 88131 , 1711082 , 25-90880

Qty:
$14.67
  • Interference engine application
  • PowerGrip Premium OE Timing Belt
Brand: Gates
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Block Engine CID CC
1982 - BMW 528e GAS L 6 Cyl 2.7L - 2693
Gates
1982 BMW 528e Engine Timing Belt 6 Cyl 2.7L Gates - High Performance Automotive Timing Belt

P311-40E8823    T131RB  New

B0131 , 40131 , 6589089 , 026-0239 , CD131 , 45-01689 , 88131 , 25-90880 , TB-131 , 1713361 , B131 , 222131 , 11311711082 , 94139 , LB131 , T131 , TB131 , T131RB , 11311713361 , 95131FN , 95131 , 250131 , OHC131 , 1711082 , 11311469240 , CD-131

Qty:
$66.20
  • Blue; Interference engine application
  • High Performance Automotive Timing Belt
Brand: Gates
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Block Engine CID CC
1982 - BMW 528e GAS L 6 Cyl 2.7L - 2693
Gates
1984 BMW 325e Engine Timing Belt 6 Cyl 2.7L Gates - PowerGrip Premium OE Timing Belt

P311-086B235    T131  New

222131 , CD131 , 11311469240 , 95131 , 45-01689 , 250131 , 6589089 , 11311713361 , 95131FN , OHC131 , 40131 , LB131 , TB-131 , 026-0239 , 11311711082 , TB131 , 94139 , B131 , 1713361 , CD-131 , B0131 , T131 , 88131 , 1711082 , 25-90880

Qty:
$14.67
  • Use with retrofit tensioner pulley.; Interference engine application
  • PowerGrip Premium OE Timing Belt
Brand: Gates
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Block Engine CID CC
1984 - BMW 325e GAS L 6 Cyl 2.7L - 2693
Gates
1984 BMW 325e Engine Timing Belt 6 Cyl 2.7L Gates - High Performance Automotive Timing Belt

P311-40E8823    T131RB  New

B0131 , 40131 , 6589089 , 026-0239 , CD131 , 45-01689 , 88131 , 25-90880 , TB-131 , 1713361 , B131 , 222131 , 11311711082 , 94139 , LB131 , T131 , TB131 , T131RB , 11311713361 , 95131FN , 95131 , 250131 , OHC131 , 1711082 , 11311469240 , CD-131

Qty:
$66.20
  • Use with retrofit tensioner pulley.; Blue; Interference engine application
  • High Performance Automotive Timing Belt
Brand: Gates
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Block Engine CID CC
1984 - BMW 325e GAS L 6 Cyl 2.7L - 2693
ContiTech
1991 BMW 325iX Engine Timing Belt ContiTech

P311-3834476    W0133-2100257  New

Qty:
$23.73
ContiTech Engine Timing Belt
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Premium
Brand: ContiTech
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1991 - BMW 325iX

Latest Bmw Repair and Timing Belt Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

BMW 325i window washer motor

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From djw46 on BMW 325i window washer motor

My son has a 1989 BMW 324i. The window washer does not work. When the hood is opened and the washer is tried, there is no noise from the window washer motor. It appears that the motor is never turned on, although no electrical trouble shooting has been done. Is there a fuse somewhere for this window washer motor that we can check or how else should I go to check out the electrical stuff. Is it common for an electrical problem to cause this or is it more common for the window washer pump motor to go bad? I think that the maintainence on this car has not been too good. It still had the original timing belt installed, which I replaced. I think it should have already been replaced three times.

Second problem, when operating the car, a light on the dash lights up saying "brake rotor" or "brake lining". I can't remember which but there is only one light. I would go look at it but the car is about 800 miles from where I live. Any advice you can give me would be appreciated.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

If there is power and ground to the washer if you want they sell generic in line washer motors that work pretty good from even WallyWorld for about $10bucks!

Brake warning wear indicator is usually a wire in the lining that when it wears so that it can ground it sets it off. I suppose it would go off no matter where it grounded so just take a look around there, T

1985 BMW 325e possible electrical starting problem??

Showing 9 out of 22 Posts | Show 13 Hidden Posts
Question From Icewolf 325e '85 bmw on 1985 BMW 325e possible electrical starting problem??

Okay, so, my 1985 325e BMW has a serious problem and has had serious problems in the past... Here is a list of everything I've replaced:
-both fuel pumps, aux and in-tank
-all spark plugs and wires
-my distributor
-my starting solenoid
-all of my filters
-my obc (on board computer)
-battery
-ignition switch
-timing belt
-oil
-oxygen sensor

And here are other things you might need to know:
I have a spare motorolic control unit that i got from a pick and pull, both in-car and spare work just fine

After, and im NOT joking, about 10 hours of work over two days, I pulled my starter out and got it tested, it worked perfectly... wtf...

So, to my current problem...
I took my car to the movies with my girl, and as i started up i noticed that the car sugged and had difficulty trying to turn, so i figured a dead battery was the culprit, got my boost box out, hooked it up, and the sucker started no problem. In the 325e, the battery is in the trunk, so, I actually, and regrettably
left the booster on the battery and drove it home...

The car has not been the same since... Now, even to start it, I have to have a fully charged battery and a fully charged booster, even then I can hear the shaft rotate once, wait a second, rotate once, and wait until after about 10 seconds the car will start properly turning over and then start. When it starts it runs and idles perfectly fine with no problems until suddenly the engine stalls after about two miles, and then it wont crank even if i would have put a thousand volts through it...

So, I do believe i have an electrical problem somewhere in the car, and I do believe a serious one... the last time I tried to start it the freaking RIGHT SIDE PASSENGER SPEAKER STARTED BUZZING!! no the radio was not on... what the absolute ****, right?

I am literally at my wits end with this car, and I love the thing its my first car and I would love any feedback on what it might be... I'm only 17 so although I've worked on other cars and mine a bunch, my knowledge here is dimmed from my lack of experience... If there is anybody that could help it would be much appreciated Thank you!

Response From Icewolf 325e '85 bmw

Ive noticed that most responses have to do with clean battery terminals, I have checked the battery connectors, and the terminal clamps, sanded them like crazy, and no joy, everything is the same ordeal...

Response From kev2

remove spark plugs and see if it engine spins at speed , let us know what happens ....

Response From Icewolf 325e '85 bmw

I've disconnected the boots, but no joy the car didn't even try... booster applied, car weakly attempted a rotation, put the boots back on, same result... Thanks for the reply, is there any other suggestions? Anything else I might have to do? I've also tried a push start, with no luck...

Response From Hammer Time

Disconnecting the"boots" is not removing the spark plugs.

Response From Icewolf 325e '85 bmw

Is that safe to do?? sorry it might seem like a stupid question... Is it safe to try a crank with no spark plugs? I've ran out of daylight for today, so Ill try that tomorrow, and post my findings...

Response From Hammer Time

Of course it is safe. You are just removing the compression to see if the engine spins freely.

Response From Icewolf 325e '85 bmw

Okay, have removed the spark plugs, tried to start it, made a slow awful grinding sound, stopped turning altogether. Put the plugs back in, connected everything, and... nothing new, tries a single slow rotation, cant and dies. Is there anything else it might be?

Response From Hammer Time

What you have just proven is that the engine is seizing. If the starter is good, then the engine is bad. Your bench test was not conclusive that the starter was good though.

Response From Icewolf 325e '85 bmw

And also why wouldn't the starter be good? I had it tested at o'reillys auto parts, why wouldn't that be conclusive? Any help would be appreciated

Response From Hammer Time

The test wouldn't be conclusive because it was tested with no load on it and putting a load on it can make all the difference in the world. Just because it can spin when it isn't turning anything doesn't mean it can crank and engine.

Apparently I misunderstood your problem. I thought I read that your car wouldn't crank even with a good battery.

Everything you are saying points to a bad starter.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Agree HT - strong guess on my part is starter is just weak so far and jumps helped but most people don't have good enough jump boxes or cables nor really should unless sure go right to starter and skip the battery out back bull.
That would better prove the starter is NG. 1985! I'd have that starter apart myself (brushes no good likely) also not DIY friendly for most,


T

Response From Icewolf 325e '85 bmw

Thanks very much for all the feedback guys, I appreciate it! Ill try and scrap together for a new starter and ohm test everything again, and check my grounding points and my amp delivery... Even if its not the starter its still good to put a new one on. that particular starter was used on the e30 starting at '79... who knows how long it sat around before being put in my car? Plus the car has over 300,000 miles on it, its probably due one anyway , I appreciate all the help guys, thanks a bunch. If i can get a new starter and get the car up and running, Ill definitely use this forum for any other repairs or concerns, Ill update again tomorrow night after most of the day with the car... no school, no nothing but us

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I didn't go looking but suspect this starter is quite pricey. If up to it check out some YouTube or similar to see how you take one apart and bet you can still buy just brushes and clean this one up.
That or ask around if someone in your area does starter, alternators etc on site. Perhaps 90% of them will just need brushes, bearing checked and contacts cleaned up, lube areas and make them look new again for sale as rebuilt - you can do that.
Off the wall: The older the electric motor the better they were for the amount of metal and real copper used to the point you could machine them down but just "emory" cloth done well should do.
Brushes are like compressed charcoal brickette looking material things and ride on contacts pushed by spring - get sticky, too shiny or plain worn out. IDK, makes more sense when right there see what it does.
You can test one with a car power battery source on the bench or shop floor and watch them work but there's no load on it but do before putting it in then can know how much power it can do not just turn.
Takes some time. You'd be ticked paying a tech's rate vs whole already done ones except for real new ($$) they really want your old one back - note that!


T

Response From Icewolf 325e '85 bmw

Sorry I didn't get on yesterday like I promised guys, there was other stuff going on... Thanks for the tip!! I think that if i can hook up the battery and find that the starters at fault, Ill just buy a new one... I say this because the new starter isn't terribly priced: around 70$, and that it would be easier than to rip the old 30+ year starter apart and clean it (which I've never done in my life, and with my luck screw it up), plus then I have no garentee that it will work in the aftermath... It would take longer to rip apart the old one and clean it then to put a fresh new one back in, even if it will save me a couple bucks... Plus its an easier feeling starting up with a new one than a 30+ year old one lol. So, ill post this weekend on my findings, hopefully the starter is the culprit and the moderators can close down a tread they could have worked out in less than a day haha. Thanks for the posts everybody! If there are any other ideas, feel free to leave a comment!! Ill consider anything at this point

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You are right. 70$ for anything on a BMW is just change. I suggest keeping old one (core) for a while if possible at all and maybe try seeing how they come apart and go together as it's so much like other electric motors you may have to someday or get out priced.
It's just hard to explain and I'm not set up for a movie on it.
Good luck with it,


T

Response From Icewolf 325e '85 bmw

RESOLVED!!!
So, I got the new started a few weeks back, put it in and... nothing... The car had the same issue as before... So, i pulled my battery out and noticed that the sides were bulging out a little. I went to go get it tested and they put a real load on it and noticed it had possibly a broken or bad cell in it... WOW, this whole time... I guess that booster did some real damage to the battery as it was on for the ride home... I cant believe it was such a stupid easy fix lol, considering it didn't even cost me anything because i had a warranty on it because it is a BRAND NEW BATTERY lol... so, I just posted this to follow up on what had happened.. just maybe to help anybody out there with any similar problems. When I got home and threw the new one on, the car started no problem. I did notice it was backfiring pretty bad so I shut it off, checked my spark plug wire pattern and found i had mixed two... fixed it now and it runs like a dream! Ive learned loads during this problem, and im kinda angry it was such an easy fix. Thank you kindly for everybody that posted and tried to help, I really appreciate it. I will use this blog next time I have any other troubles. Thank you and god bless you if you have this same problem... its a weird thing to deal with and can be a load of problems.

Response From Discretesignals

Glad to read you got it resolved. Thank you for the follow up Thread closed as solved. Can be reopened upon request by the OP.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

First off testing from these type parts outlets prove nothing IMO. You've said it tries to crank just barely now say it idles fine? Now I'm confused enough.
IDK - I totally prefer testing a starter on the engine with that engine with known good power to it. Jumper cables and boxes are not reliable unless you absolutely know cable are up to it and connected where they have to deliver power (AMPS) to a starter.


What's really going on? Have you messed up installing the starter and was the POS cable to it in good shape there?
Pretty sure this runs heavy gauge real copper POS battery cable right to starter and used body for ground and another cable grounding body to engine block. All must be known good.
So if this engine now can run properly however you got it started this is slowly ruling out a tight engine from seizing but could easily test for voltage drops alone both at battery and again what it reads at starter while cranking if it drops below about 9V you have a huge draw, bad battery, cables, connections..........


T

Response From kev2 Top Rated Answer

lets test another way
leave the plugs out for now... use a breaker bar and socket on crank shaft try to spin engine - its a little engine* no compression should spin over easy...let us know.
you claim starter is good, and you are throwing 500+ amps at that starter yet will not spin a no compression engine.


*@150 cid

Response From Icewolf 325e '85 bmw

Im confused then, if it idles perfectly, and runs okay... then how could the engine be bad if the car just has a terrible time trying to crank? is there anything else i can look at or anything else that would make sense to try?

Response From Icewolf 325e '85 bmw

hmm... okay, ill take a wack at it after school tomorrow, thanks man, Im curious at what this will test.

What car to buy?

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From mfishburn on What car to buy?

Hi everyone! I just join the forum. I have a question maybe you guys can give me more ideas on. My family is tired of me debating on what to buy. I am wanting to buy another car in the future. Right now I don't have the money but I'm trying to narrow down my choices. It will be my daily driver, so it will need a/c, heat, ect. I want it to be a performance car that I can tinker with when I want to. I want it to be newer and have fuel injection. I cannot afford a brand new car so that is out. I have been seaching for the perfect fun daily driver and I am so confused on which way to go. I am ussually a amercan hotrod guy but I am tired of the same old cars(camaros, firebirds, mustangs). While there is notheing wrong with these car and I love them alot, I just want some thing different. I have thought about these so far. The older bmw's, nissan 240sx and 300zx, older mazda rx7's, older toyota supra's. This is just what I have thought about so far. Give me some more ideas everybody!! I would love to hear any and all suggestions. Thanks

Response From georgelopez66

I would look at old supras and other Japanese cars if i where you most old unmodded ones go with 2k to 5k. a lot of older camareo's fall within your price range. others to check out would be the MR2,dodge stealth, turbo honda etc. if you what to drift you are problay going to what limited slip diff.

Response From SantaRosaMechanic

sir i vote for the bmw's specially the m3. having been on an all american muscle cars, i think trying a european will give you excitement in driving it. besides bmw are very reliable and with the m3 sporty at the same time. hope this help.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

>>older bmw's, nissan 240sx and 300zx, older mazda rx7's, older toyota supra's<< I wouldn't touch any of those with a 10' pole! All are expensive to work on, with exception being the 240. If you've got lots of money to throw around and don't mind spending it, your choice. I'd recommend staying with American made vehicles. For the most part, more user friendly, and a whole lot cheaper to repair. For what it's worth.....

Response From john b Top Rated Answer

well loren i worked at a repaire shop and believe me some of the costs i use
see were just as much as a north american vehicle put it this any vehicle is
generally is going to be expensive now a days to fix its not common to get a bill for 700 to 1000$
for a big job like timing belt sure some german,bmw"s are expensive for specific parts
like japanese are. but in my opinion sure there priceir to buy but they dont dont
break down as often either i love my 07 honda civic before that i owned a

95 civic Lx 225.000kms never let me down and never in the 11 years i had it seen the "engine light" or
a repaire shop for anything it was that good just did maintainance tlc the only big bucks
i dished out for that car was to have the timing belt properly done by a honda tek 640$
japanese cars arent like american cars that dont hold there resale value to well japs do
thats why i like them

BUILT FORD TOUGH naaaaa bull

built HONDA TOUGH is more like it for me