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1996 Eagle Vision Engine Timing Belt Kit 6 Cyl 3.5L CRP

P311-2B36645    TB255K1  New

In Stock & Ready to Ship
CRP Engine Timing Belt Kit
  • Interference Eng.
Brand: CRP
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1996 - Eagle Vision V 6 Cyl 3.5L 215 3497
In Stock & Ready to Ship
Dayco Engine Timing Belt Kit
  • ; Includes: Timing Belt, Camshaft Belt Tensioner Pulley (Hydraulic Actuator not included), 2 Camshaft Seals, Crankshaft Seal, Pre-Assembly Seal Lubricant Interference Engine Water Pump Driven by Timing Belt
  • Timing Belt Kit with Seals
Brand: Dayco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1997 - Eagle Vision V 6 Cyl 3.5L 215 3497

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Holden Astra 2002 Timing Belt replacement and Vibrating Breaks

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From afmamoon on Holden Astra 2002 Timing Belt replacement and Vibrating Breaks

Hi Guys,

I have recently bought my first car in Australia. Model details are as below.

Year : 2002
Make : Holden
Model : Astra
Engine Size : 1.8
Kilometers : 137,000

The previous owner had not changed the timing belt so I thought that I might change it now before something really bad happens to the car. As the parts are very costly in the market so I am thinking of buying the Timing Belt Kit and Water pump from ebay.

If these Gates automotive parts are reliable ?
(links not allowed)

Secondly breaks are vibrating and break grip on discs is not so good. What possibly could be a problem?

Also how much would be the labor cost to replace the timing belt and solving the breaks issue ?



Response From Tom Greenleaf

"Gates" IMO is generally known as a good name brand. Any can spin off cheaper stuff as well.

Brakes (break is like taking a coffee break sport - just busting you) plain need all to be thoroughly checked. Vibration is usually warped and or problems with rotors or drums if used. This car not sold in the US or Canada TMK where most regulars are from,


Response From afmamoon


Thanks for you reply.

You might already be knowning it that HOLDEN is an Australian Company owned by GM Motors and is actually a Chevrolet. So we have Holden Caprice in Australia which is actually a Chevrolet Caprice.
Other names for these car which might also exist in USA or Canada are Chevrolet Astra, Opel Optima Vauxhall Astra or something like that.

Any suggestions about the Break Pads or Discs. Which vendor is trusted one ?



Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just "owned by GM" doesn't mean much for export markets. Specs for equipment, parts meeting a standard OE or aftermarket is unknown to me place by place.

If doing things yourself I'd ask locally where and what names techs like best. DS's point on getting parts on line does scare me anyway. I would rather see it in hand at a counter and pay more personally,


Response From nickwarner

A lot of shops won't even install parts bought by the customer. I've had a few people get the cheapest junk out there for parts and then get mad when I refuse to install those parts.

While Holden is a GM subsidiary, they are building cars for your market and tend to use many different parts from the american version. Chevy has only within the last year started making the Caprice again, and its a police-only car. You guys have been getting one for a while though.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Don't think it is wise to buy a timing belt kit and water pump off ebay for the simple fact you have no recourse if something goes wrong. Another thing to consider is if you have a shop perform the labor with your ebay bought parts, they won't warranty the labor if something goes wrong with the parts and causes major engine damage. You'd be left holding the bag.

This is a US based website and we don't have any service or labor time info on your vehicle. Call around shops in your area to get a general estimate.

'97 Subaru Outback 2.5L Timing belt is too loose

Showing 9 out of 16 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From Dispiacere on '97 Subaru Outback 2.5L Timing belt is too loose

Ok, so I am the girlfriend posting on behalf of my boyfriend and my dad(who recently retired as a master mechanic about 3 months ago)

Me and my boyfriend got a new car, and shortly after it started to overheat and turns out the head-gasket blew. So my dad come to help fix it(we live 300 miles away) and bought a timing belt kit with waterpump, a headgasket kit, and machined the heads. My dad went to put everything back together and started it and said that the timing belt was too loose. He started cursing the machine shop but we called them and they said they couldn't have possibly taken too much off, they said they only took off 4 thousandths of a inch and they said they could have done up to 12.
We measured all the pulleys and they are the correct size and verified all the parts are correct, so at this point we are pretty stumped.

Time is also a factor because I am in college and I need to drive to my finals that are coming up in just 4 days!

Response From Discretesignals

How many teeth are on the replacement belt? How many teeth on the original?

Response From Dispiacere

I didn't count, but I checked on the internet via model numbers printed on the timing belts themselves and the original and the new one both had the same number. It had 281 teeth.

Response From Discretesignals

This is a Legacy Outback and not an Impreza Outback?

Response From Dispiacere

Yup, its a legacy outback limited eddition

Response From Discretesignals

Machine shop is right that the service limit for machining is .012 inches

The belt should have 281 teeth on it.

Don't think anyone would go through the hassle of swapping a 2.2L in there, which uses a smaller belt, but who knows. That is why I was wondering with the teeth count were on the old belt. Of course, the 2.5L and 2.2L are easy to tell apart because the 2.5 is a DOHC and the 2.2L is a SOHC.

The belt could of been packaged wrong or could be a defect, so teeth count would be important to be sure of on the new belt.

Response From Dispiacere

So you think I should take it off and manually count the teeth?

Response From Discretesignals

You should, just to be sure. You don't want to be cranking on the engine with the wrong belt, seeing how this is an interference engine.

Here is pic of tooth count between sprockets:

Response From Dispiacere

Ok, I will pass that on to my boyfriend. But to save time just in case the belt isn't a defect. What else could be the issue?

Response From Discretesignals

If all your replacement parts are exactly the same and the installation is correct, the only thing that changed was the surface of the head. You stated they machined only .004 inch. Maybe the heads where machined before, and the service limit is exceeded, but you would think the machine shop would be able to tell that it can't be machined any more. Standard head height is 5.02 inches.

Was the hydraulic tensioner adjuster replaced also?

Response From Dispiacere

I think so? Here is a brochure of the kit I got(it was the timing belt kit with waterpump)

Also, we called the machinist and they made it sound like they did nothing wrong and were careful. I can call back and make a stink about it, but I just wanted to be sure before I did. What could I do to check that the heads were to short?

Response From Discretesignals

Which kit number did you get? Gates makes 3 of them for that engine.

A hydraulic tensioner malfunction could also cause the belt to be loose. Important to be sure the tensioner isn't leaking. If it is the original one, would be wise to replace it. Here is the description of how it works:

1) Belt tension action
The tensioner adjuster rod (3) is moved to the left by the force of the main spring (6). This causes silicone oil (which is held to constant pressure by compression-spring tension inside the reservoir chamber (9) to push the check ball (5)so that silicone oil flows into the oil-pressure chamber (8).
The momentum which forces the adjuster rod out acts upon the tensioner arm C2 so that the pulley is turned counterclockwise. Thus, timing belt tension is properly maintained.

2) Balance to belt tension
When the timing belt reaction force is balanced by the main spring tension (to push the adjuster rod), the arm is held stationary to maintain constant belt tension.
When the timing belt reaction force increases to such an extent that the belt will be too tight, a small quantity of oil in the oil-pressure chamber (8) gradually returns to the reservoir chamber (9) via the adjuster body-to-rod clearance. This return of oil continually moves the rod until the reaction force of the timing belt balances with main spring force and oil pressure inside the oil-pressure chamber. Thus, belt tension is constantly maintained.

The height of the head would have to be measured to see if it is out of specs. You should call another machine shop to ask how you tell if a head is machined too far on that design.

Response From Dispiacere

Ok, I will call a place tomorrow.

I remember the night that my dad told me the belt was loose and someone asked him if the tensioner could be back and he said its working, the arm(or plunger, cant remember what he called it) was fully extended and he said that it shouldn't be that extended, and that he thought it wasn't the tensioner. Do you think that with what he said you agree or could something still be wrong?

The part number for the kit is tckwp277b

Response From Discretesignals

If the tensioner is over extended, I'd would agree with your Dad that is probably isn't the tensioner that is the issue. That kit number does include a replacement hydraulic tensioner.

Belt Tension Adjuster:
Protrusion Of Adjuster Rod .............. 15.4 - 16.4 mm (0.606 - 0.646 inch)
Belt Tensioner:
Spacer Outside Diameter ................................... 16 mm (0.63 inch)
Tensioner Bush Inside Diameter ....................... 16.16 mm (0.6362 inch)
Clearance Between Spacer And Bush:
Standard ......................... 0.117 - 0.180 mm (0.0046 - 0.0071 inch)
Limit ............................................. 0.230 mm (0.0091 inch)
Side Clearance Of Spacer:
Standard ........................... 0.37 - 0.54 mm (0.0146 - 0.0213 inch)
Limit ................................................ 0.8 mm (0.031 inch)

Response From Dispiacere

So what else should I look at besides the head depth or is that about it?

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

I'm out of ideas other than what was provided above. Maybe someone else will chime in.

1992 honda civic wont start

Showing 2 out of 23 Posts | Show 21 Hidden Posts
Question From medicalpurposes on 1992 honda civic wont start

My son says it just died on him. I have checked for and found spark from distributor cap. When fuel line is loosened from outlet side of fuel filter and key is turned on, there is fuel. What would let me have fire and fuel and still not start. engine turns over very well?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

1. Not enough fuel pressure
2. No injector pulse
3. Valve timing jumped or way off to broken?

* Compression check if fuel pressure shows up to par might be the next move to isolate this,


Response From medicalpurposes

Will check 1 and 2 tomorrow. is valve timing and engine timing one in the same?

Response From Discretesignals

Which engine are you dealing with 1.5L or 1.6L? VTEC or not VTEC? If 1.5L and not VTEC, 8 or 16 valve?

Response From medicalpurposes

1.6L, I am thinking its a vtec, but it sits a hour away from here so I cant take a look right now. Ignition timing was what I was reffering not know anything about valve timing. I wouldnt think a compression issue would come instantly w/o warning, but then again, I dont know. I will tell you more tomorrow.

Response From Hammer Time

Stop trying to dance around it and take the compression test. A jumped belt will effect many other things like dominoes so you need to know the basics before looking any further.

Response From medicalpurposes

Well, I finally made it back...thanks for your patience gentlemen. I did not succeed on my mission, as I took only a few tools to pull spark plugs and do a compression test with. I did not realize that I would need to remove valve cover, etc to do this...the the spark plug wires, with the extensions going thru the valve cover was not something I have ever seen. I did jot down a vin number and engine block id number and learned this. It is a 1995, not 92. The engine block number D15B7 is not a VTEC. I apologize for this taking awhile, and I must work two 12 hour days, so the next time to look at it will have to be Monday and I will do that compression test. Wished the car was close, but it is what it is I guess. It does have an external timing belt cover, which had some black dust settled on top of it that was definitely from the belt. More on Monday, Thanks.

Response From Sidom

Something doesn't sound right here. This has the coil in the dist & if you had the trouble with the wires that you did......How exactly did you test for spark and where??????

You don't need to r&r the v/c to remove the plugs, just an 3/8s extention....

You may want to back up and recheck some of this stuff......Get a spark tester and check for spark at the end of the plug wire.

I haven't seen to many of these jump time, usually the belt breaks or strips. If that is the case you just need to take off the dist cap and see if the rotor moves when it's cranked or take off the oil cap and if you can see the rocker arms, see if those move while the engine is cranked.....

12 hr day is tough, you can't get it towed closer to you?

Response From medicalpurposes

Originaly tested for spark by unplugging wire from dist cap and inserting screwdriver and holding wire near screwdriver to observe spark. Had extension w/me yesterday but my spark plug socket did not "grip" the plug well enough to pull them out of the "tunnel" in the valve cover.

Response From Sidom

Well you need to check the stuff the other guys have posted about..But just a couple of quick things you can do. If you are trying to remove the plug but it keeps falling out of the socket, once it's all the way loose, just snap the wire back onto the plug & use the wire to pull out the plug or use a magnet.....

If the plugs look real bad, I would be tempted to throw a new set in and give a shot of starting fluid down the throttle body to see if that gets it to fire.....Also take a test light and check all the fuses....

Definity check the compression but this is just a couple of other things you can try seeing as how you are making long runs to do this......

Response From medicalpurposes

Well I did get a chance to get some compression readings from all 4 cylinders today. #1 95psi, #2 80psi, #3 135psi, and #4 110psi. I am guessing that is too much variance, but I was not tickled with doing this with valve cover on. I had to feed the test hose in each opening, down the 4-6 inches and blindly screw the connection from the other end of the hose and then plug in the gauge. Some holes I got 4 or 5 complete turns of the hose b4 it was tight, and others just 2 or 3 turns til tight, which makes me worry about how good a compression test I actually did. Does that make sense? Happy New Year to all by the way!!!

Response From Sidom

Yea like HT said, with readings like that, its time to pull the top cover & line up the marks. Takes a minimum of 100 lbs comp to fire a cyl.

You didn't like the plug set up on that???? What til you boy buys a Ford F150 5.4 and wants you to put some plugs in it for him,,,,,,You'll be wishing it was a .

A good tip for putting plugs in those blind holes is, get a straight piece of vacuum line that fits tightly over the end of the top of the plug and start the plug that way. It's possible to crossthread a plug using a plug socket & extention but you will never crossthread a plug using vacuum line, you can't get enough force to crossthread it with the line but the vacuum line is strong enough to start the plug for a few threads before it starts "spinning" on the plug...

Man, is there any way you can get this towed home cheaply.....This is getting to the point where it would be a lot easier to do in your garage, or driveway.....

Response From medicalpurposes

The gas is no prob, I work near there. It is in my son's drive, but he has been gone...just wanted to get a sense of direction by the time he gets back. The plugs were easy once I read Sidom's post on using the tube like ends of the wires, just put them back in until they snapped onto the plugs and pulled them out...made me feel really dumb but glad it worked! It will be a few days, but will keep you guys updated...thanks!!!

Response From medicalpurposes

OK...weeks later, the son finally calls me asking for help. We got the covers off and all the marks line up correctly as per above diagram, The belt, water pump and tensioner look fantastic. Put the valve cover back on and turned it over...everything looked fine. We left it at that stage and decided to ask several for advice. What do you guys think?

Response From Sidom

Just a couple other suggestions.......After you put some oil in the cyl, install a set of new plugs & see if a couple shots of starting fluid down the throttle body will get the engine to fire.....

Also I don't know how you checked for spark but if you didn't use a spark tester you may want to pick up one at the parts store, wind the tester out to 40kv & check for spark. A weak coil will produce a spark out in the open but not in a cyl that is under compression........

If you can get a hold of a noid light......check to see if you have injector pulse

Also look at the fuel rail...If my memory isn't failing....I believe there is a ground attached to one end that if it gets loose, you will lose injector pulse...I think it looks like a braided ground strap

Response From Discretesignals

#1 95psi, #2 80psi, #3 135psi, and #4 110psi

Unplug the distributor electrical connector. Remove all the spark plugs.

Pour a few teaspoons of engine oil down each spark plug hole. Make sure the battery is fully charged. Crank the engine for 20 seconds. Then recheck your compression. Make sure you hold the throttle wide open when you do your compression check. Write down the numbers and let us know.

Response From nickwarner

Uhaul is pretty cheap to rent a tow dolly to you if you have a vehicle with a 2" receiver hitch and working light plugin. Less than the gas you're spending and it would free up all that drive time to work on it.

Response From Hammer Time

Yes, you have some issues with those readings. Things are starting to point toward a timing belt problem and it may be time to remove the covers and check the timing marks.

Response From Hammer Time

The valve cover is only the top inch and the wires have to come off to even get the valve cover off. Grab the wire with something as close to the base as possible and twist and pull.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Valve timing would be any reason a belt or chain can't keep time with the crankshaft - if so compressions would be uniformly low or nothing. Lost my chart but this should be an interference engine so damage would happen if off by much. If (probably) a rubber timing belt and plain broken bent valves, no compression. That can happen without much or any warning.

Ignition timing would all be in the mix but not conclusive alone, but if off, why? Pretty much that stays where it was left last and not high on the list to be a surprise.

Presence of fuel at fuel filter doesn't mean it got delivered even if pressure is adequate. Just rule things in or out for a beginning,


Response From nickwarner Top Rated Answer

If the timing belt has jumped time it will immediately change the compression because the valve timing will be off. Others will correct me if I'm wrong but I think the 1.6 is the freewheeling motor and the 1.5 is interference. If this is a jumped timing belt issue you should pray its a 1.6 so you're only out a timing belt kit. If you jump time on an interference engine you will bend all your valves in the first two revolutions. It gets very expensive.

Response From Discretesignals

Unfortunately, both 1.6 and 1.5 are interference.

Response From Hammer Time

It's either valve timing or ignition timing. There is no engine timing.
I'd be jumping right to the compression test first