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Lancer ES 2005 - Tie Rod end and CV Half Shaft ???'s

Showing 3 out of 19 Posts | Show 16 Hidden Posts
Question From Egas on Lancer ES 2005 - Tie Rod end and CV Half Shaft ???'s

Hi all,

I just recently muster courage to do car work myself and first thing was to change the tie rod end. The question I have is, do i really need to add more grease to it? I bought the piece and it came with a small sort of valve to screw it into a small hole from where i saw grease, but I started wondering if I should apply even more (which I did not have at the moment).

Now I am thinking of changing the front right CV half shaft (as the boot is torn and is leaking grease), I wanted to know if for this model is a pain to remove it. I was told that it might (or might not) have a bracket of some sort close to the engine that makes it hard to remove.


Response From Discretesignals

You really need to get hold of some service information. The service information lists the steps, what tools are needed, and warnings for doing various service procedures.

AlldataDIY is a good source.

Response From Egas

You really need to get hold of some service information. The service information lists the steps, what tools are needed, and warnings for doing various service procedures.

AlldataDIY is a good source.

I subscribed to this site.. I found a discount code "NEWDIY2013" which gives you 9.95 for a year, and 12.95 for 3 years.. great deal in case you guys want to get to it.

Response From Hammer Time

great deal in case you guys want to get to it.

LOL........... no, we are all professional techs that work in the business and use the professional version.

Response From Egas

Hehehe..i meant other guys whom might visit this post looking for answers :)

also, in case you as moderator had a post where these "deals" can be added.

Response From Hammer Time

No, we don't provide any free advertising for any business. We will suggest them when a poster needs an information source.

Response From Egas

So, follow up question on this CV Axle thingy.

I managed to change it and some oil/fluid came out of the place where the shaft joined the transmission box or slip differential box.. is the right axle, so when i went and bought transmission fluid, the dealer told me that I really needed LSD fluid rather than transmission fluid.

So,any thoughts how to refill that LSD box?

Response From Hammer Time

I don't know what LSD fluid is.

Here's what the trans calls for
Fluid Type MITSUBISHI genuine ATF SP-III

Synthetic fluid will usually substitute for any of them.

Response From Egas Top Rated Answer

Limited Slip Differential = LSD

So according to what I am understanding, the left CV Axle goes directly into the transmission, so if I replace that one then I'll have to add Transmission Fluid as that is what spills.

If I remove the right CV Axle, then that one goes into the SLD transfer case which does not use transmission fluid, but another type of oil.. the Mitsubishi part is called "LSD Gear Oil SAE 90"

I guess is worth mention it here in case other folks ask about this. I have always seen in CV axle replacements to "replace the transmission fluid lost".. but at least for a Lancer 2005 it is not transmission if is the right side axle.

Response From Hammer Time

Is this a manual transmission or automatic?

Response From Egas


by the way, freaking HARD to read the transmission fluid level.. any tips on how to figure it out? the fluid is runny and it just smears all the levels (cold, hot, etc).

Response From Hammer Time

First off, this is transmission fluid, not gear oil so forget the limited slip stuff.

Trans fluid can be hard to read. Dry off the stick read goo first and then insert it fully. When you pull it out, hold it flat so the fluid doesn't run. You may have to rely on looking for the wet reflection of the oil against the dry stick to see the level.

Response From Egas

Thanks Hammer.

I'll need to dig more into it.. so i can get a refund/exchange for a quarter of transmission fluid from the dealer. If i find more data/info that provides more conflicting ideas then i'll bring them back.

Also, i have tried to be steady, to ensure i dont touch the sides with the dip stick while pulling it out, etc.. it comes back shiny wet with fluid.. i'll give it another shot and this will provide more data as to whether is tranny fluid as it should have come down from being topped off.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just about tie rod grease fitting: Some may not have had an original but replacement does and do grease it. Might be just a plug or fitting with new part or buy fitting for the angle needed if needed.

If you don't do all you own service and this is now only grease fitting remember to tell any place that it has one and where,


Response From Egas

Thanks Tom.

I'll buy a grease gun and do it myself. If i am going to start servicing my car, I should do all of this stuff..is cool to learn stuff like this.

Response From Egas

Thank you for the info!.
I'll give that site a shot. On the greasing part, do parts come already greased and no additional required normally?

Response From Hammer Time

No, you usually need to give it a shot or 2 with a grease gun when you're finished.

Response From Egas

Thanks!. I'll see how to get some grease in it without having to pay for a full hr of service .

Response From Hammer Time

You simply buy a grease gun.

shakes after replaced engine

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From trixywicker on shakes after replaced engine

I have a 97 mitsubishi eclipse 2.0lt. non turbo that was in perfect running order then the timing belt went which blew the engine. The engine was replaced and immediately after the car would shake after about 40mph but NOT when the clutch was in. They changed the tires, balanced, aligned, put new tie rods even though i told them the car was MINT before the engine was changed. still not fixed, they then told me they thought it was the transmission but decided to look at all other smaller things before they resorted to that...they are now looking at the axles. Ive heard from several people it could be the engine or transmission mounts. I would assume they checked this. They are stumped and my bill is climbing. All I know is what ever THEY did while putting that engine in caused the shaking or could there be any fault IN the used engine that could cause these symptoms? Any other opinions?

Response From trixywicker Top Rated Answer

My mechanic replaced the axle and said he found a bent bracket. Now the car is fixed. Mystery solved.

Ball bearings? Not sure.

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From chrisgritz on Ball bearings? Not sure.

1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse (Base) 170k miles 2.0DOHC

Hey guys so just now i recently replaced my front rotors and brakes on my car, while i was there the mechanic showed me these arms that seemed to be connected to the brakes. He then put his wrench on a bolt and shook the arm, and he said they were loose.. he said it was really bad, however he didnt know the name of it, i was wondering if you guys know what im talking about? Its a arm on each side the left and right that look like they connect to the whole brake and rotor thing or whatever. I want to know how fast do i need to fix this and the price of these arms, i just got paid and its gone so i want to know if i can last another two weeks driving like that or what? Thanks!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Now I'm scared as a mechanic didn't know what the item was! Is something to do with front end or brakes safe if worn out and loose - heck no!

Can you post a pic or find one on the web (google pics) or a parts place that will copy and paste - anything. There's a lot of stuff that can wear so difficult to guess but needs to be taken seriously no matter what this is.

Are you possibly talking about a tie rod end? Look one up at a parts site. If that/those are loose from wear and your mechanic didn't know what they were he/she is the wrong mechanic. How the heck would parts be ordered if this person did the job?

For now I'm stuck to say don't drive it on an open web site without knowing or seeing/feeling this myself.

Depending, if you think you are short of the money and this whatever let's go I think we all know what horrors an accident could bring never mind the car!


Response From chrisgritz Top Rated Answer

hahaha yea i was wondering the samething. I looked up pics for the tie rods but thats not it, or it could be not sure, but the things he pointed out on my car were way thicker and longer. It connected to the bottom base of the car and somewhere near the brakes and he got in the car backed up and slammed on the brakes and u can hear a slight knock, nothing major though.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

It's not funny! Here's a pic that could be wrong of a lower ball joint from a parts site. Did it look like this?


Hope that shows and yes it's different than many if that is the item. If that and loose it isn't safe,


Response From chrisgritz

yup its way thicker than that, its hard to take a look at it because whoever owned the car previously had it lowered :/ ima try to take a pic though.

Response From Hammer Time

Can you pick it out on this diagram?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If this is altered and the part is part of doing that, that would explain why a tech might not know a name for it. I couldn't guess for anything what was done to alter it and now if a non OE item no doubt if you can't find who did this to the car we are going to have trouble,


2001 Mitsubishi Galant DE - Suspension overhaul

Showing 7 out of 10 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From vkdc on 2001 Mitsubishi Galant DE - Suspension overhaul

Hi everyone,

Let me start by saying I know very little about cars, and thank everyone in advance for any advice you can provide on this issue.

I have a 2001 Mitsubishi Galant DE, 2.4L, with 78,000 miles. I recently noticed a clanking noise coming from under the car, and felt the car wobbling a bit as we drove, and so I took it into my local mechanic to be checked out.

After inspecting the car he informed me that the following items need repair:
-Ball joint - both front lower ball joint loose
-Control arm – both front lower control arm loose
-Both outer tie rod end loose
-Front wheel alignment
-Both front sway bar end link loose
-Both front sway bar brushing loose
-Front strut weak
-Rear strut weak
-Front engine mount loose
-Rear engine mount loose
-He also recommended I replace the tires which have been damaged by the faulty suspension.

The quote for all of this (excluding tires which I would have replaced elsewhere) comes to $2,485, the bulk of which is for repairing/replacing the ball joint, control arm, and front/rear struts. Frankly, this is more than I want to spend to repair a 13 year old car, so I asked him if there was anything here I could get away without repairing for now – ie what would be the minimum amount of work I can do to keep the car safely running? He indicated that I'd need to have it all repaired, but his english is pretty bad so I'm not sure he fully understood the question.

So, I have a few questions 1) does this quote seem reasonable/worth it? 2) is there anything here I can potentially get away with leaving unaddressed for awhile? I'm guessing that these things are all related and so repairing only a few of them may not be practical. It would be a shame to give up on a car with only 78,000 miles but it's equally scary to invest $2500 into car that even in good shape blue books for maybe $2000.

Thanks again for any thoughts.


Response From Tom Greenleaf

78k and all that stuff! Was this used in an Evil Kenevil canyon jump or something?

Second opinion time IMO. Most of the descriptions should be either broken or worn not "loose."

That and you still need tires?

Seriously, if you have vehicle inspections where you are who the heck has missed all that as I can't believe it all went at once? Maybe it is all bad and if so, nice looking low mile car even old I'd trade out of that one for that cost but have another opinion in writing as that's a lot all at once,


Response From vkdc

Haha, no I haven't been jumping canyons (yet), but my city is pot hole central, so maybe that has had an effect.

It did seem odd that so much went wrong at the same time, so I'll bring it into another shop to have them take a look.


Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ya - I was a little off the wall with that comment. Perhaps it was a record school bus jump instead - Ha.

Just hard to belie all that all at once and I hear you with pot hole central. Holy crap around where I am, I think there are lost cars in some of the pot holes! That will wreck stuff too if you hit them or can't avoid them.

Some on that list like front + rear motor mounts you should have been complaining about and they would normally be described as "loose" but rather BROKEN.

At that cost you just need another look by another uninvolved place totally. If all that was that bad you really should be driving it - your call as I'm not so sure on all that. A noise could be a ton of assorted things??

If it really does need quite a bit like that and you really like the car in general and condition otherwise take the book values with a grain of salt at those ages as it's hard to find used cars if so that don't need something either or a lot OR go new, or top shelf used with awesome warranty.

Good luck,


Response From vkdc Top Rated Answer

Sounds good. Thanks again. I have an appointment with another mechanic tomorrow to get a second opinion.

If it really needs $2500 in repairs, we're leaning towards using that money as a down payment on a new car. Something cheap and reliable like a Honda Fit. Since the Mitsu is a 13 year old car, I'd rather not invest $2500 in the suspension only to worry that the transmission may fail next month :)

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Personally not worried about it's age a bit. Just that quite a list of parts you were told and I suppose real lousy roads could speed up the issues fast. For the items you listed , some are not that expensive some get up there it's the total vs making a change before you do it all if you are ready now. It won't be worth that $2,500 more . Duh

we need cars. Book values are mere guesses after a few years IMO. Things can go wrong by surprise in anything new or not just the odds are better with newer.

I really think it's money well spent to decide on fixing and bailing out.

Don't let on the prior estimate, rather just ask for a complete check of steering and suspension items and check those motor mounts that could go without notice and see what happens.

Good luck,


Response From vkdc

The second opinion is in. The second mechanic says...

The reason the car is swaying and wobbling is because the tires are worn and one is warped. They need to be replaced.

The noises are because the right axel and strut mount need to be replaced.

The Stabalizer bar bushing needs to be replaced. The noise we hear is because the engine is tilting.

Without tires he estimates $678. That's a lot less than $2500!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Well............... That second opinion was worth it! If that's credible to you now I'd go for it. Swapping to another car if this one is otherwise OK is expensive by itself with whatever papers and taxes are involved - tons here, MA.

Tires are a cost of driving. A wheel if needed can either be fixed or probably a good used one - ask. Don't put a good new tire on a bad wheel.

Things are looking up,


Response From vkdc

Thanks again. Good advice. Feeling much better about repairing the car, and getting a few more years out of it.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I'd fix it unless you are hell bent on something new. Now you can go back to CANYON jumping

Let us know how it all works out. Mods let thread be till this is all good again please,