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First Equipment Quality
2002 GMC Envoy XL Steering Tie Rod Assembly First Equipment Quality

P311-4F14B7A    W0133-1693716  New

Qty:
$29.64
First Equipment Quality Steering Tie Rod Assembly
Brand: First Equipment Quality
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2002 - GMC Envoy XL
First Equipment Quality
1985 GMC S15 Jimmy Steering Tie Rod Assembly First Equipment Quality

P311-388BF6F    W0133-1693150  New

Qty:
$72.58
First Equipment Quality Steering Tie Rod Assembly
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1985 - GMC S15 Jimmy
TRW
1985 GMC S15 Jimmy Steering Tie Rod Assembly TRW

P311-52BE2FA    W0133-1693150  New

Qty:
$128.52
TRW Steering Tie Rod Assembly
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1985 - GMC S15 Jimmy
First Equipment Quality
2003 GMC Sonoma Steering Tie Rod Assembly First Equipment Quality

P311-388BF6F    W0133-1693150  New

Qty:
$72.58
First Equipment Quality Steering Tie Rod Assembly
  • Exc.High Wider Package
Brand: First Equipment Quality
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - GMC Sonoma
TRW
2003 GMC Sonoma Steering Tie Rod Assembly TRW

P311-52BE2FA    W0133-1693150  New

Qty:
$128.52
TRW Steering Tie Rod Assembly
  • Exc.High Wider Package
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - GMC Sonoma
Genuine
2004 GMC Sierra 1500 Steering Tie Rod Assembly Genuine

P311-3900AEB    W0133-1802004  New

Qty:
$360.19
Genuine Steering Tie Rod Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Includes Inner Tie Rod Ends and Center Link
  • Relay Rod
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - GMC Sierra 1500
Genuine
2006 GMC Yukon XL 1500 Steering Tie Rod Assembly Genuine

P311-3900AEB    W0133-1802004  New

Qty:
$360.19
Genuine Steering Tie Rod Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • (Includes Inner Tie Rods)
  • Includes Inner Tie Rod Ends and Center Link
  • Relay Rod
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2006 - GMC Yukon XL 1500
Genuine
2001 GMC Yukon Steering Tie Rod Assembly Genuine

P311-3900AEB    W0133-1802004  New

Qty:
$360.19
Genuine Steering Tie Rod Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Incl.Inner Tie Rod Ends
  • Includes Inner Tie Rod Ends and Center Link
  • Relay Rod
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - GMC Yukon
TRW
1988 GMC K1500 Steering Tie Rod Assembly TRW

P311-4F01BD9    W0133-1686894  New

Qty:
$75.20
TRW Steering Tie Rod Assembly
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1988 - GMC K1500
TRW
1988 GMC K2500 Steering Tie Rod Assembly TRW

P311-4F01BD9    W0133-1686894  New

Qty:
$75.20
TRW Steering Tie Rod Assembly
  • Exc.GVW 8,600 Lbs.
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1988 - GMC K2500
Sachs
2002 GMC Envoy XL Steering Tie Rod Assembly Sachs

P311-54A1DDB    W0133-1693716  New

Qty:
$73.25
Sachs Steering Tie Rod Assembly
  • Inner
Brand: Sachs
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2002 - GMC Envoy XL

Latest Gmc Repair and Tie Rod Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

tie rod relacement

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From gmctruck2001 on tie rod relacement

How do I replace an outer tie rod end on a 2001 GMC Sierra?

Response From nickwarner Top Rated Answer

Use a pickle fork to pop it out of the socket, break it loose from the inner tie rod and spin it off. Check Autozone.com and you can sign up for free with a username. Gives you access to online manuals free. I use it alot myself as I don't have Alldata at my house.

What could have happened?

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From Cris21 on What could have happened?

Not sure as to what my husband did, but tonight he left in his truck and then came home without his truck, and said it was right up the road and he went off the road and got it stuck, so we took the tractor to pull it out. Afterwards he told me to drive the truck back and he would take the tractor back. I tried taking the truck but every time I would turn the truck to the right to get on the road the truck would go left, so he got back in and kept messing with the truck and finally got it to the house. Why does a vehicle go one way when you turn it the other way? I also noticed when we got back home that underneath the truck there was something hanging to the ground close to the front end of the truck. It was dark and I could not really see so I am not sure, but I am pretty sure it was a part of the truck. Could any give any info as to what could be the problem? Thanks to anyone who can help me to figure out what could be wrong.

92' GMC Sierra

Response From Guest Top Rated Answer

You didn't say what kind of truck it is but doesn't really matter...

Sound like he hooked up the the steering linkage & broke a tie rod end.....

Easy fix.... replace all the bent/broken parts & get it aligned.......

Response From Cris21

Thank you so very much for the info. He has been talking about getting an alignment for a while, but we have not been having problems with the truck until now, but maybe we can get new parts and get it aligned and have it running good. Thank you

mismatched tires

Showing 2 out of 13 Posts | Show 11 Hidden Posts
Question From jackx on mismatched tires

I have a 1989 gmc jimmy 4wd s15. It has 4wd but I never use 4wd.
I have 235/75r/15 tires on both rear wheels.
One front tire has 235/75r/15 and the other has a 235/70r/15.

The 235/75r/15 has a circumference of 90.72 and the 235/70r/155 has a
circumference of 87.82

As long as I don't use 4wd is it ok to run the mismatched tires on the
front of the vehicle.

I hate to buy another tire unless I really need to.

Response From Hammer Time

No, it's not OK, You are going to tear up the front differential and also have ABS problems.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

? Can't find ABS on this for front anyway. Matters if a farm vehicle now or really driven anywhere? How is it you got the mismatched tire to begin with if new? If used AYOR totally or different brands on an axle.


All thing preferably don't do this as HT said. Matters what you now use this for and would be harder on front diff. with wheels never turning the same speed,


T

Response From jackx

I understand why you have to run the same size on front and back if you use 4wd. So I put the
offsize tires on the front even though the rear end is not posi. I still wanted the same size tires on
both sides because I figured even though it might work now long term it might be a problem. I know you
aren't supposed to run donut tires very long. So I decided having mismatched tires on the back would
not be a good idea.

Since I can jack up the front and turn one wheel way and the other the oppposite way I have
a hard time understanding why I having slightly different size tires on those wheels matter. Even
though the cv shafts attach to the front transfer case they apparantly aren't engaged with each
other in any way or you could not turn them in opposite directions.

I really did not know the truck had abs. I know it doesn't have it on the back. I guess it may
have abs on the front.

I got the tires from my son. He had a blow out and the service station put the 235/70/15
on the truck. His truck was a 97 blazer. I have since pulled those tires off his truck and put new ones
on and I decided to put the tires on that truck on this one just to get it back on the road.
The old tires were bald and the tires I pulled off his truck have great tread and I needed to do something with them.

I'll try to find a replacement tire. I only drive this truck about 3k a year. Its a spare truck I keep around.

Thanks

Response From Discretesignals

It won't hurt it on that design because it has a center disconnect that basically disconnects one axle (right axle) from the differential carrier. On that design the front differential pinion and side gears always spin while driving in 2wd because the left axle doesn't disconnect from the differential. It probably wouldn't be a good idea to put it into 4wd with two different matching tires though or have two different tires in the rear.

Response From jackx Top Rated Answer

Thanks Descrete. I guess your post settles this issue. I got worried after reading the other posts
and was afraid to drive down to get the mismatched tire replaced and I jacked it up and have it
in my Blazer now to take down.

You confirmed my suspicions when I saw that the front wheels are not engaged in any way to each
other.

I guess having the two tires the same will make it possible to nail the alignment. I just used a
sheet rock square to align it so far. I slid it up to both the front and rear side of each front tire and
both tires are perpendicular to the ground now after I adjusted the control adjusting bolts. I only wanted to
make sure the wheels were 90 degrees to the ground. I just put new ball joints and upper control
arms on it. It drives great down the road now. I did not change out the tie rods so I figure the toe is ok.

I'll watch the front tires to see how they are wearing and I may even take it down and have a shop
check the alignment after I get the tires back on it.

I was going to replace another of the tires anyway. I believe it took 4 or 5 weights to get it to balance out.
It was on the front end of the truck and I drove it with the ball joints and control arm bushing worn out
for a long time. The tire reflects this in that it has scallops on it so bad the truck starts to have a slight
vibration once you get up to 70 mph. I put that tire on the back but I believe it is the root of the problem and
I'll move it to being a spare and replace it with another 50 dollar tire. Hopefully after today everything will be
copacetic.

Response From Hammer Time

What you don't understand is the differential has side (spider) gears to allow it to make turns. When both wheels travel at the same speed those side gears are not moving or engaged at all. As soon as one wheel turns faster than the other. the side gears engage and will wear them out in no time and the metal worn off of them will destroy the rest of the differential.

Response From jackx

I bought a used 235/75/14 for 50 bucks that I will put on the front tomorrow and replace the 235/70/15.
Supposedly its in good shape with about 80% of the tread left. We will see tomorrow I guess.

Back when I got that Jimmy it seems like I needed it every year in the winter because back then it snowed every year.
That was 24 years ago. Since I turned 65 I stay home when it snows and it doesn't snow as much now.

I still have bad winter in Texas tough A couple years ago we had a ice storm and the ice was thick on my trucks cab.
When it slide off it took all the paint with it. That's why I had to paint it last week when I decided to put it back on the road. I didn't have the truck operational during that ice storm and I spun my Blazer around 3 times just going to the store.

Now I guess I can use 4wd if I need it this winter if it snows.

Response From Hammer Time

How do you propose you are going to put a 14" tire on a 15" rim?

Response From jackx

just like the gop debates guess you got me. I meant 15

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Spring for the right tire! You can't put a 14" tire on a 15" rim anyway at all no matter what.


The middle # is % high as it is wide for same numbers which is why a 75 means % is taller hence the circumference difference.


NO. I don't care if the next 14" is on a rim that might fit and bet not. There's more to it than you think. Tires really should be of the suggested size the vehicle maker lists and at least even on most per axle - type, wear and size. If you put ONE brand new tire on a vehicle with 1/2 worn tires it's trouble enough even if you find he exact one new.


OK - now you said Texas and assorted weather of course the state's so big. Got it. TMK almost all has tons of long straight driving and that's when the differential will always think it's slightly turning and mess with it.


Other - 4X4 isn't magic by itself for ice. There's some that nothing is going anywhere for a while and shouldn't.
Wasting time with this - get the right matching tire,


T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

It's always best for it to match exactly - no argument. This (if I'm right) you should only be using 4X4 just for the time needed to get out of trouble and back to 2WD like two like it I've owned. Forget and plain wet roads over 30 MPH or turns you feel it bind so mismatched is always binding a bit in this case.
If this has ABS at all you should see it under hood and a light should light while starting the truck and go out as in OFF.
In short to suggest as I should have, have matching tires for each axle. Unless this one is different front and rear would matter and wreck it's behavior if using 4X4 on non totally needed situations like stuck.


Even now if the type I think put in 4X4 on dry road/surface and turn sharp and go just walking speed. It will bind like nuts almost hop on you.
If this vehicle is worth a damn get a matching tire and be done with the issue.


What messes me up is why so many people get four wheel drive and don't need it at all or near never. It's a lot of expense and extra stuff to go wrong IMO for the "real truck" type use fine, for everyday a waste,


T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

? It's OK, IMO if just a local vehicle, slower speeds and you don't care that much about tires wearing a bit more and really can't align it that way. 4X4 on all I know of for about then wasn't for any real speed OR not when really needed unlike an AWD which would matter totally.


Preferred of course is matching tires all around if you can swap out for part credit or some deal I would. Right brand too helps.


If nicer and drive more and at speeds change it to the right/matching size,


T

95 GMC rebuilt tran won't go into overdrive

Showing 8 out of 8 Posts
Question From Sandman on 95 GMC rebuilt tran won't go into overdrive

Hey folks, hoping someone can give me some advice here..and I really hope this isn't too confusing. I've researched high and low and checked everything I can think of and here's where I'm at on a 1995 GMC Sierra k1500 5.7 4x4 210k miles:
2 weeks ago I rebuilt the transfer case, dropped the pan to replace the tran filter and replaced the fluid lost from the drop. Everything worked fine after that except it was slipping bad in reverse, and a little in first. While I was waiting on parts for the transfer case rebuild, I replaced my exhaust manifolds, radiator hoses, thermostat, power steering hoses, idler/pitman arms, tie rods, and ball joints. (I've been busy). For the past year it would randomly give me one click when I tried to start the truck. If I kept trying it would eventually start. I replaced the starter a while back and new battery. It still does it sometimes and has been getting worse so I got a brand new starter (not rebuilt) and replaced the ignition switch, tumbler, and neutral safety switch. I also added a push button starter for emergency situations. I should add, my battery has been relocated to the bed of the truck so I also went through all grounds throughout the truck, polished the attach points and made sure they're all secure. The clicking instead of starting problem has gone away. Ok now that we've cleared up everything I did electrically.
So here I am today, tranny shop can't hit overdrive so they tell me something else is wrong with the truck. (Overdrive worked when I dropped it off at their shop). They did say the put a new neutral safety switch on, test drove again, got it to hit overdrive, but then they shifted to 3rd to check lockup and it wouldn't get overdrive again. so..
Here's what I've done today: I Rechecked all grounds on the truck. Polished every bit of contact. I pulled the column again and checked voltage at all wires on the ignition switch. Every wire has about the same voltage, around 12.6 when I turn the key on, and over 13.5 when it's running. I check the power to the transmission harness and it reads the same. One thing I noticed right when I got it back from them was the tran pan kept looking like it's dripping. When I check the voltage at the wiring harness on the transmission, it's all wet there. As I'm popping the harness back on the connector, it moves and fluid starts coming out. So I get that pulled up tight and it stops leaking, and I'll be showing the shop that on Monday.
What else should I check?? I've read the engine might not be at temp and might not allow overdrive to work. Could a faulty thermostat cause that? The whole time I keep test driving it, the engine is running at about 180 degrees. I wouldn't think I got a faulty ignition switch since the voltage is consistent across all appropriate wires. I have no fuses out. Checked voltage at both sides of each fuse and nothing is wrong there. Live scan wasn't showing them anything but there could still be the possibility a solenoid isn't working correctly from their rebuild, right? Any help is appreciated!

Response From Sandman

Oh ya more info, There are no warnings on the instrument panel. The instrument panel is working and all lights do light up when starting. Vehicle speed is accurate and 1-2 2-3 shifts feel perfect. Brake switch is working correctly. Cruise control is working.

Response From Discretesignals

Someone needs to connect up a high end scan tool that can access the manufacture side of the PCM. Then they need to monitor the TCC solenoid command. They will also need to verify that the TCC solenoid command is occurring by either monitoring voltage at the TCC solenoid circuit at the PCM connector using a volt meter or an oscilloscope to verify circuit integrity. If everything looks fine electrically, then you have a mechanical problem inside the transmission or torque converter.

Response From Sandman

Thanks for that info. I'm assuming that's what the transmission shop was doing when he said he did a live scan, got no error codes and all his work is correct. I think he was also getting annoyed he already put an extra day into troubleshooting it. I'm going to call him Monday morning and have him check all that I guess. Everything else I've checked electronically seems perfect.

Response From Sandman

I took the truck back to the trans shop yesterday morning after I had exhausted all checks that I could on my own. Just got the truck back, fixed and running perfectly (I hope it's not a coincidence haha). He went over everything they did, replaced the wiring harness, and through his search ended up finding the manifold pressure switch was bad. He through a new one in and it has worked perfectly over multiple test drives. On the drive home the truck was shifting perfectly through all gears. Hope that was the problem! Thanks for the help

Response From nickwarner

A bad manifold pressure switch would cause that issue. Glad you got it resolved.

Response From Discretesignals

manifold pressure switch? Is that on the exhaust manifold?

Response From nickwarner Top Rated Answer

Its next to the muffler belt.