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The Following brands are available based on your search.

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    First Equipment Quality
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    Mevotech
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    Moog
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Best Selling Genuine Mercury Tie Rod Ends

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including TRW, Mevotech, Moog
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Mercury Replacement Tie Rod End Parts

We stock Tie Rod End parts for most Mercury models, including Cougar, Grand Marquis, Mountaineer, Sable, Villager.

TRW
2009 Mercury Milan Steering Tie Rod End TRW

P311-355FA79    W0133-1848359  New

Qty:
$69.62
TRW Steering Tie Rod End
  • 3/36 Warranty
  • Right Outer
Brand: TRW
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Mercury Milan
TRW
2009 Mercury Milan Steering Tie Rod End TRW

P311-4D47A29    W0133-1848360  New

Qty:
$69.62
TRW Steering Tie Rod End
  • 3/36 Warranty
  • Left Outer
Brand: TRW
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Mercury Milan
TRW
2009 Mercury Sable Steering Tie Rod End TRW

P311-54E352E    W0133-1848594  New

Qty:
$120.04
TRW Steering Tie Rod End
  • 3/36 Warranty
Brand: TRW
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Mercury Sable
Mevotech
1995 Mercury Sable Steering Tie Rod End - Front Inner Mevotech

P311-447EE5D    MEV127  New

MEV127 , IEV127 , 45A2052 , EV127 , XEV201 , ES3064R , IS201 , JAR1212 , F6SZ3280BA , E6DZ3280A , XEV127 , 46A2052A , TEV127 , 4051052B , IS127

Qty:
$18.09
Mevotech Steering Tie Rod End  Front Inner
  • Steering Tie Rod End
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead And Mineral Oils Which Are Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer Or Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. For More Information, Visit Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Features & Benefits: Includes Pre-applied Thread Lock For A Sturdy And Secure Repair.
    • Finish: Corrosion Resistant
    • Length: 13.25
    • Product Feature: Added Laborsaver Feature: Save Time And Money With Bundled Hardware.
    • Width: 1.465
  • OVER-BUILT for increased durability. The most popular choice for professional technicians.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Mevotech
Position: Front Inner
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1995 - Mercury Sable Front Inner
Mevotech
1982 Mercury Marquis Steering Tie Rod End - Front Outer Mevotech

P311-3DD5007    MES3495  New

45A0210 , TO86445 , 46A0632A , T2057 , ES3495 , XES3495 , F5AZ3A130A , XES2057RL , TES2057RL , 2W7Z3A130A , ES2057RL , JTE1274 , 4011632B , T3495 , ES2057L , MES3495 , IES3495 , TO86035 , 45A0632 , MEOE68 , 2W7Z3A130AA

Qty:
$26.17
Mevotech Steering Tie Rod End  Front Outer
  • Steering Tie Rod End
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead And Mineral Oils Which Are Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer Or Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. For More Information, Visit Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Features & Benefits: Over-built With Sintered Metal-to-metal Technology For Added Endurance And Durability.
    • Features & Benefits 2: Sae Grease Fitting Is Included For Serviceability.
    • Finish: Corrosion Resistant
    • Length: 5.17
    • Product Feature: Corrosion Resistant Surface Treatment Prevents The Build Up Of Rust For Longer Service Life.
    • Product Feature 2: Added Laborsaver Feature: Save Time And Money With Bundled Hardware.
    • Width: 1.7
  • OVER-BUILT for increased durability. The most popular choice for professional technicians.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Mevotech
Position: Front Outer
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1982 - Mercury Marquis Front Outer
Mevotech
1982 Mercury Marquis Steering Tie Rod End - Front Inner Mevotech

P311-56283D1    MES3494  New

IES3494 , XES2056RL , 4011633B , TI86180 , T3494 , ES2056RL , XES3494 , ES2056R , T2056 , TES3494 , 2W7Z3A131A , MES3494 , JTE1285 , MRS602 , ES3494 , 45A0633 , F5AZ3A131A , 46A0633A , 45A0211 , 2W7Z3A131AA , MEOE115 , TI85470

Qty:
$26.57
Mevotech Steering Tie Rod End  Front Inner
  • Steering Tie Rod End
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead And Mineral Oils Which Are Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer Or Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. For More Information, Visit Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Features & Benefits: Over-built With Sintered Metal-to-metal Technology For Added Endurance And Durability.
    • Features & Benefits 2: Sae Grease Fitting Is Included For Serviceability.
    • Finish: Corrosion Resistant
    • Length: 7.63
    • Product Feature: Added Laborsaver Feature: Save Time And Money With Bundled Hardware.
    • Width: 1.57
  • OVER-BUILT for increased durability. The most popular choice for professional technicians.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Mevotech
Position: Front Inner
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1982 - Mercury Marquis Front Inner
Mevotech
2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Steering Tie Rod End - Front Inner Mevotech

P311-3603C31    MEV455  New

45A0873 , ES3673 , XEV455 , MEV455 , ES4071 , 8W7Z3280A , 4011873 , 2693210 , EV455 , FOA606 , IEV455 , IS455 , TEV455 , JAR1224 , 3W1Z3280BA

Qty:
$25.29
Mevotech Steering Tie Rod End  Front Inner
  • Steering Tie Rod End
  • To 12/03/07
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead And Mineral Oils Which Are Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer Or Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. For More Information, Visit Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Finish: Corrosion Resistant
    • Length: 11.5
    • Product Feature: Corrosion Resistant Surface Treatment Prevents The Build Up Of Rust For Longer Service Life.
    • Product Feature 2: Added Laborsaver Feature: Save Time And Money With Bundled Hardware.
    • Width: 1.58
  • OVER-BUILT for increased durability. The most popular choice for professional technicians.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Mevotech
Position: Front Inner
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2008 - Mercury Grand Marquis Front Inner
Mevotech
2008 Mercury Mariner Steering Tie Rod End - Front Outer Mevotech

P311-529F37C    MES3631  New

45A0872 , EC0132280A , ES5068 , T3631 , 8L8Z3A130A , MES3631 , 5L843289AALR , 4012165 , JTE7607 , XES3631 , 46A0872A , ES3631 , TES3631 , IES3631 , ES4069 , T3631XL , ES4069E , 5L843289AA , 101-5195 , 5L8Z3A130AA , TO86215

Qty:
$19.04
Mevotech Steering Tie Rod End  Front Outer
  • Steering Tie Rod End
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead And Mineral Oils Which Are Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer Or Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. For More Information, Visit Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Features & Benefits: Over-built With Sintered Metal-to-metal Technology For Added Endurance And Durability.
    • Features & Benefits 2: Sae Grease Fitting Is Included For Serviceability.
    • Finish: Corrosion Resistant
    • Length: 4.82
    • Product Feature: Corrosion Resistant Surface Treatment Prevents The Build Up Of Rust For Longer Service Life.
    • Product Feature 2: Added Laborsaver Feature: Save Time And Money With Bundled Hardware.
    • Width: 1.72
  • OVER-BUILT for increased durability. The most popular choice for professional technicians.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Mevotech
Position: Front Outer
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2008 - Mercury Mariner Front Outer
Mevotech
1996 Mercury Tracer Steering Tie Rod End - Front Outer Mevotech

P311-0189C64    MES3048RL  New

FOCZ3A130A , IES3048RL , XES3048RL , ES3048RL , TA1253 , ES3073 , 45A0434 , TO86415 , ES3048R , TA1252 , ES3048RE , T3048 , MES3048RL , TES3048RL , 46A0434A , JTE7028

Qty:
$13.89
Mevotech Steering Tie Rod End  Front Outer
  • Steering Tie Rod End
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead And Mineral Oils Which Are Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer Or Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. For More Information, Visit Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Features & Benefits: Over-built With Sintered Metal-to-metal Technology For Added Endurance And Durability.
    • Features & Benefits 2: Built With Thicker Material For Increased Strength.
    • Features & Benefits 3: Sae Grease Fitting Is Included For Serviceability.
    • Finish: Corrosion Resistant
    • Length: 3.95
    • Product Feature: Corrosion Resistant Surface Treatment Prevents The Build Up Of Rust For Longer Service Life.
    • Product Feature 2: Added Laborsaver Feature: Save Time And Money With Bundled Hardware.
    • Width: 2.91
  • OVER-BUILT for increased durability. The most popular choice for professional technicians.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Mevotech
Position: Front Outer
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1996 - Mercury Tracer Front Outer
Mevotech
2003 Mercury Mountaineer Steering Tie Rod End - Front Outer Mevotech

P311-2351BF8    MES3461  New

TO86425XL , IES3461 , F87Z3A130BA , TES3461 , ZZP032365 , ES800290 , ES3461E , 46A0748A , 101-5279 , 5L5Z3A130AA , T3461 , MES3461 , 45A0748 , ES3461 , TO86425 , XES3461 , ZZP032365A , JTE1568 , IES800290

Qty:
$27.16
Mevotech Steering Tie Rod End  Front Outer
  • Steering Tie Rod End
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead And Mineral Oils Which Are Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer Or Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. For More Information, Visit Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Features & Benefits: Over-built With Sintered Metal-to-metal Technology For Added Endurance And Durability.
    • Features & Benefits 2: Built With Thicker Material For Increased Strength.
    • Features & Benefits 3: Sae Grease Fitting Is Included For Serviceability.
    • Finish: Corrosion Resistant
    • Length: 5.785
    • Product Feature: Corrosion Resistant Surface Treatment Prevents The Build Up Of Rust For Longer Service Life.
    • Product Feature 2: Added Laborsaver Feature: Save Time And Money With Bundled Hardware.
    • Width: 1.915
  • OVER-BUILT for increased durability. The most popular choice for professional technicians.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Mevotech
Position: Front Outer
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2003 - Mercury Mountaineer Front Outer
Mevotech
2005 Mercury Mountaineer Steering Tie Rod End - Front Inner 6 Cyl 4.0L Mevotech

P311-13AA5B4    MEV421  New

IEV421 , 4051137 , 1L2Z3280CA , EV421 , 1001355 , IS421 , ES4131 , ES3603 , XEV421 , ES4131E , 2695555 , TEV421 , MRA604 , MEV421 , 4051137B , JAR1139 , SCA601

Qty:
$27.89
Mevotech Steering Tie Rod End  Front Inner
  • Steering Tie Rod End
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead And Mineral Oils Which Are Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer Or Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. For More Information, Visit Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Features & Benefits: Includes Pre-applied Thread Lock For A Sturdy And Secure Repair.
    • Finish: Corrosion Resistant
    • Length: 13.5
    • Product Feature: Added Laborsaver Feature: Save Time And Money With Bundled Hardware.
    • Width: 1.576
  • OVER-BUILT for increased durability. The most popular choice for professional technicians.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Mevotech
Position: Front Inner
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Mercury Mountaineer Front Inner V 6 Cyl 4.0L 245 -
Mevotech
2001 Mercury Mountaineer Steering Tie Rod End - Front Inner Mevotech

P311-159FA50    MEV317  New

ZZP03224X , IEV317 , MEV317 , 101-4839 , 46A0711A , IS317 , 1F703224X , TEV317 , JAR1113 , F57Z3280AA , AU2Z3280A , MEF42 , XEV317 , 45A0711 , EV317 , ES3424

Qty:
$29.57
Mevotech Steering Tie Rod End  Front Inner
  • Steering Tie Rod End
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead And Mineral Oils Which Are Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer Or Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. For More Information, Visit Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Features & Benefits: Includes Pre-applied Thread Lock For A Sturdy And Secure Repair.
    • Finish: Corrosion Resistant
    • Length: 10.75
    • Product Feature: Added Laborsaver Feature: Save Time And Money With Bundled Hardware.
    • Width: 1.606
  • OVER-BUILT for increased durability. The most popular choice for professional technicians.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Mevotech
Position: Front Inner
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2001 - Mercury Mountaineer Front Inner
Mevotech
2005 Mercury Sable Steering Tie Rod End - Front Outer Mevotech

P311-2102CAB    MES3349RL  New

3F1Z3A130AA , IES3349RL , 45A0745 , 46A0745A , T3349 , ES3349 , MES3349RL , XES3349RL , TES3349RL , ES3349RL , F6DZ3A130A , JTE1272

Qty:
$19.79
Mevotech Steering Tie Rod End  Front Outer
  • Steering Tie Rod End
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead And Mineral Oils Which Are Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer Or Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. For More Information, Visit Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Features & Benefits: Over-built With Sintered Metal-to-metal Technology For Added Endurance And Durability.
    • Features & Benefits 2: Built With Thicker Material For Increased Strength.
    • Features & Benefits 3: Sae Grease Fitting Is Included For Serviceability.
    • Finish: Corrosion Resistant
    • Length: 4.99
    • Product Feature: Corrosion Resistant Surface Treatment Prevents The Build Up Of Rust For Longer Service Life.
    • Product Feature 2: Added Laborsaver Feature: Save Time And Money With Bundled Hardware.
    • Width: 1.785
  • OVER-BUILT for increased durability. The most popular choice for professional technicians.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Mevotech
Position: Front Outer
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2005 - Mercury Sable Front Outer
Mevotech
2005 Mercury Sable Steering Tie Rod End - Front Inner Mevotech

P311-0D7AE33    MEV398  New

XEV398 , TEV398 , ES3344E , IS398 , F6DZ3280AA , ES3344 , MEV398 , 46A2083A , JAR1120 , EV398 , 1F1Z3280AA , IEV398 , 4051083B

Qty:
$24.92
Mevotech Steering Tie Rod End  Front Inner
  • Steering Tie Rod End
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead And Mineral Oils Which Are Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer Or Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. For More Information, Visit Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Features & Benefits: Includes Pre-applied Thread Lock For A Sturdy And Secure Repair.
    • Finish: Corrosion Resistant
    • Length: 13.5
    • Product Feature: Added Laborsaver Feature: Save Time And Money With Bundled Hardware.
    • Width: 1.457
  • OVER-BUILT for increased durability. The most popular choice for professional technicians.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Mevotech
Position: Front Inner
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2005 - Mercury Sable Front Inner
Mevotech
2004 Mercury Marauder Steering Tie Rod End - Front Inner Mevotech

P311-3603C31    MEV455  New

45A0873 , ES3673 , XEV455 , MEV455 , ES4071 , 8W7Z3280A , 4011873 , 2693210 , EV455 , FOA606 , IEV455 , IS455 , TEV455 , JAR1224 , 3W1Z3280BA

Qty:
$25.29
Mevotech Steering Tie Rod End  Front Inner
  • Steering Tie Rod End
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead And Mineral Oils Which Are Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer Or Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. For More Information, Visit Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Finish: Corrosion Resistant
    • Length: 11.5
    • Product Feature: Corrosion Resistant Surface Treatment Prevents The Build Up Of Rust For Longer Service Life.
    • Product Feature 2: Added Laborsaver Feature: Save Time And Money With Bundled Hardware.
    • Width: 1.58
  • OVER-BUILT for increased durability. The most popular choice for professional technicians.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Mevotech
Position: Front Inner
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2004 - Mercury Marauder Front Inner
Mevotech
1998 Mercury Villager Steering Tie Rod End - Front Outer Mevotech

P311-1FE560D    MES3200RL  New

45A0739 , XES3200RL , TES3200RL , 485207B025 , MES3200RL , ES3200 , TO69315 , 101-4721 , T3200 , F3XY3A130B , JTE1305 , IES3200RL , ES3200RL

Qty:
$18.78
Mevotech Steering Tie Rod End  Front Outer
  • Steering Tie Rod End
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead And Mineral Oils Which Are Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer Or Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. For More Information, Visit Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Features & Benefits: Over-built With Sintered Metal-to-metal Technology For Added Endurance And Durability.
    • Features & Benefits 2: Built With Thicker Material For Increased Strength.
    • Features & Benefits 3: Sae Grease Fitting Is Included For Serviceability.
    • Finish: Corrosion Resistant
    • Product Feature: Corrosion Resistant Surface Treatment Prevents The Build Up Of Rust For Longer Service Life.
    • Product Feature 2: Added Laborsaver Feature: Save Time And Money With Bundled Hardware.
    • Width: 1.65
  • OVER-BUILT for increased durability. The most popular choice for professional technicians.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Mevotech
Position: Front Outer
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1998 - Mercury Villager Front Outer
Mevotech
2009 Mercury Mariner Steering Tie Rod End - Front Outer Mevotech

P311-529F37C    MES3631  New

45A0872 , EC0132280A , ES5068 , T3631 , 8L8Z3A130A , MES3631 , 5L843289AALR , 4012165 , JTE7607 , XES3631 , 46A0872A , ES3631 , TES3631 , IES3631 , ES4069 , T3631XL , ES4069E , 5L843289AA , 101-5195 , 5L8Z3A130AA , TO86215

Qty:
$19.04
Mevotech Steering Tie Rod End  Front Outer
  • Steering Tie Rod End
  • To 06/04/2009
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals Including Lead And Mineral Oils Which Are Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer Or Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. For More Information, Visit Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Features & Benefits: Over-built With Sintered Metal-to-metal Technology For Added Endurance And Durability.
    • Features & Benefits 2: Sae Grease Fitting Is Included For Serviceability.
    • Finish: Corrosion Resistant
    • Length: 4.82
    • Product Feature: Corrosion Resistant Surface Treatment Prevents The Build Up Of Rust For Longer Service Life.
    • Product Feature 2: Added Laborsaver Feature: Save Time And Money With Bundled Hardware.
    • Width: 1.72
  • OVER-BUILT for increased durability. The most popular choice for professional technicians.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Mevotech
Position: Front Outer
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2009 - Mercury Mariner Front Outer
Moog
2003 Mercury Mountaineer Steering Tie Rod End - Outer Moog

P311-06F7BE1    ES3461  New

2695665 , 101-5279 , 5L5Z3A130AA , 269-3087 , MES3461 , ES3461 , 45A0748 , 45A2247 , ES3461E , F87Z-3A-130BA , 401-1748 , 03-85025 , 4051247 , T3461

Qty:
$26.79
Moog Steering Tie Rod End  Outer
  • Steering Tie Rod End
  • Product Attributes:
    • End 1 Gender: Female
    • End 1 Thread Diameter: 14.0
    • End 1 Thread Direction: Clockwise
    • End 1 Thread Pitch: 1.5
    • End 2 Thread Diameter: 14.0
    • End 2 Thread Pitch: 1.5
    • Feature 1:
      • Designed For Oe Fit And Function
      • Loose Or Worn Chassis Parts Can Lead To Premature Tire Wear
    • Feature 2:
      • Exclusive Cover Plate Protects Against Contaminants Leaking Into The Bearing Surface
      • Premium Boot Keeps Out Contaminants
    • Feature 3:
      • Greaseable Socket Design Allows New Lubricant To Flush Contaminants From The Assembly, Reducing Corrosion And Wear
      • Made Of Forged Alloy Steel For Durability
    • Feature 4:
      • Patent Pending Sunoloy Coated Metal Bearings Provide Smooth Stud Swing Technicians And Drivers Prefer
      • Replacement Helps Restore Vehicle Handling
    • Feature 5: Patented Cover Plate Design Allows For Tighter Tolerances Vs Traditional Designs For A More Durable Part
    • Feature 6: Powdered Metal Gusher Bearing Design Enables Grease To Flow Through Bearing To Stud For Reduced Friction And Enhanced Strength
    • Length Stud Center to End: 4.860
  • QuickSteer chassis parts are designed and tested to restore steering and handling to their original performance.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Moog
Position: Outer
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2003 - Mercury Mountaineer Outer
Moog
2009 Mercury Mariner Steering Tie Rod End - Outer Moog

P311-31CAE52    ES3631  New

YL8C-3289-GA , 269-3209 , 269-3502 , 5L8Z3A130AA , 5L84-3289-AA-LR , 401-1872 , 8L8Z3A130A , 45A0872 , EC0132280A , ES4069 , 101-5195 , T3631 , ES3631 , MES3631

Qty:
$22.65
Moog Steering Tie Rod End  Outer
  • Steering Tie Rod End
  • Product Attributes:
    • End 1 Gender: Female
    • End 1 Thread Diameter: 16.0
    • End 1 Thread Direction: Clockwise
    • End 1 Thread Pitch: 1.5
    • End 2 Thread Diameter: 12.0
    • End 2 Thread Pitch: 1.25
    • Feature 1:
      • Designed For Oe Fit And Function
      • Loose Or Worn Chassis Parts Can Lead To Premature Tire Wear
    • Feature 2:
      • Exclusive Cover Plate Protects Against Contaminants Leaking Into The Bearing Surface
      • Premium Boot Keeps Out Contaminants
    • Feature 3:
      • Greaseable Socket Design Allows New Lubricant To Flush Contaminants From The Assembly, Reducing Corrosion And Wear
      • Made Of Forged Alloy Steel For Durability
    • Feature 4:
      • Patent Pending Sunoloy Coated Metal Bearings Provide Smooth Stud Swing Technicians And Drivers Prefer
      • Replacement Helps Restore Vehicle Handling
    • Feature 5: Patented Cover Plate Design Allows For Tighter Tolerances Vs Traditional Designs For A More Durable Part
    • Feature 6: Powdered Metal Gusher Bearing Design Enables Grease To Flow Through Bearing To Stud For Reduced Friction And Enhanced Strength
    • Length Stud Center to End: 3.940
  • QuickSteer chassis parts are designed and tested to restore steering and handling to their original performance.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Moog
Position: Outer
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2009 - Mercury Mariner Outer
Moog
2007 Mercury Monterey Steering Tie Rod End - Outer Moog

P311-38BBD47    ES80991  New

MES80991 , ES4381 , TO86045 , 401-2157 , 45A1157 , 3F2Z3A130BA , 269-3494

Qty:
$25.45
Moog Steering Tie Rod End  Outer
  • Steering Tie Rod End
  • Product Attributes:
    • End 1 Gender: Female
    • End 1 Thread Diameter: 14.0
    • End 1 Thread Direction: Clockwise
    • End 1 Thread Pitch: 1.5
    • End 2 Thread Diameter: 12.0
    • End 2 Thread Pitch: 1.25
    • Feature 1:
      • Designed For Oe Fit And Function
      • Loose Or Worn Chassis Parts Can Lead To Premature Tire Wear
    • Feature 2:
      • Exclusive Cover Plate Protects Against Contaminants Leaking Into The Bearing Surface
      • Premium Boot Keeps Out Contaminants
    • Feature 3:
      • Greaseable Socket Design Allows New Lubricant To Flush Contaminants From The Assembly, Reducing Corrosion And Wear
      • Made Of Forged Alloy Steel For Durability
    • Feature 4:
      • Patent Pending Sunoloy Coated Metal Bearings Provide Smooth Stud Swing Technicians And Drivers Prefer
      • Replacement Helps Restore Vehicle Handling
    • Feature 5: Patented Cover Plate Design Allows For Tighter Tolerances Vs Traditional Designs For A More Durable Part
    • Feature 6: Powdered Metal Gusher Bearing Design Enables Grease To Flow Through Bearing To Stud For Reduced Friction And Enhanced Strength
    • Length Stud Center to End: 4.230
  • QuickSteer chassis parts are designed and tested to restore steering and handling to their original performance.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Moog
Position: Outer
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2007 - Mercury Monterey Outer

Latest Mercury Repair and Tie Rod End Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Front end alignment bad Tie rod end

Showing 6 out of 6 Posts
Question From mercuryman on Front end alignment bad Tie rod end

I have a 1996 Mercury Grand Marquis.
I had a bad ,loose inner tie rod end on the drivers side.
I replaced it, but now the car pulls to the side while driving, and feels way out of line.

Can I loosen both bolts on the tie rod sleeve, and re adjust the inner tie rod to get rid of the play in the front end.
This would be temporary , so I can get car inspected. I will go to garage for front end alignment in a few days.

Response From Hammer Time

Can I loosen both bolts on the tie rod sleeve, and re adjust the inner tie rod to get rid of the play in the front end.

Of course not. Changing the direction that the wheels point isn't going to repair worn out parts, but it will tear your tires apart if that's what you're shooting for..

Response From mercuryman Top Rated Answer

Can I loosen both bolts on the tie rod sleeve, and re adjust the inner tie rod to get rid of the play in the front end.

Of course not. Changing the direction that the wheels point isn't going to repair worn out parts, but it will tear your tires apart if that's what you're shooting for..

I already changed the inner tie rod yesterday, but it got way out of line. Can't I adjust the tie rod by rotating the sleeve?

Response From Hammer Time

Being off by even a 32nd of an inch can scrub your tires off in nothing flat. Get a proper wheel alignment done.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Yes but you won't know without the alignment machine if you are making it better or worse. That's all part of an alignment (at least good ones) and centering the steering so the wheel is straight when going straight. Even that is important as vehicles I know anyway when turning will have more freeplay on purpose to compensate for the deviation of the track if a full circle one travels further so it at a different angle to be correct.

That part is a lot of training to understand. It's not a go-cart. Many observations and you should get a before and after printout showing it's within manufacturer's specifications right on paper. Good for your car and tires to have it right on the money,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hmmm - out of proper tow (in or out) shouldn't make the car pull from now aged front end angle training. Wheel may be off center now.

No matter - if you do this again on a standard front end part count the turns out of one of those and put exact proper replacement part back in with the same # of turns - it still needs alignment which you should do right away before you wreck tires.

If tires are not even and right on the car the alignment really can't be it's best. Sometimes and fact frequently a tires alone are worn funky from being out of line. At least have the best two on the front.

A proper alignment should include all four wheels, tire pressure even and right and height if a spring was somehow lower on one side and all other pertinent front and rear end parts. Price will be local to you. Get that done right and not look for a bargain as the right machine is insanely expensive and worth it.

Depending on where you are just being out of alignment wouldn't reject a safety inspection but IDK the test for everywhere. Some include even brake action and so on.

If your inspection is by the month rather than what day from your last than you should have time to get the alignment done first and find out if anything else is wrong,

T

1986 Mecury Lynx Steering ?

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From Guest on 1986 Mecury Lynx Steering ?

We have a 1986 Mercury Lynx that the rod from the Steering rack that goes into the Left Front Tie Rod End snapped can that rod be replaced or do i need to replace the whole steering Rack???

Thanks

Scottt

Response From Double J

Thats the inner tie rod...

Click here for pix of it.


Jim

Response From Guest Top Rated Answer

How difficult is it to change this???

any help would be greatly appreciated

Email any info to me at scott66508@yahoo.com

2000 Sable making noise when turing steering Wheel

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From Rick57 on 2000 Sable making noise when turing steering Wheel

2000 Mercury Sable
78K
3.0 DOHC

I know this is suspension but its front wheel drive and I am sure this will not be easy. But here it is:

When I turn the steering wheel left/right it does not matter, it makes a squeel noise, almost like a moan if you know what I mean. Now this happens when I am at a dead stop or moving slow like backing up or just pulling away. It is very loud. It seems to drive and steer fine going down the road.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Rick

Response From Hammer Time

I have run across a problem like this on Taurus/Sables a couple times before. It turned out to be bad upper strut turn plates.
The solution will be new strut plates but I would also replace the struts at the same time.
That should solve your problem.

Response From NJ___Jon

Regaurdless I would check the power steering fluid.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Jon- Look at the date - Hope this is solved by now,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Did I just see that this can make this "squeel/moan" when at a dead stop? That takes the FE parts and brakes out of it and would lead me to belt, belt tension issue - the load of steering is greatest stopped or slow driving and PS pump is probably slipping making the noise.

Moan is more like low PS fluid level. Check that AND belt tension. Tensioner may be bad or belt stretched to limit of range is my best guess with the info,

T

Ps: Simple belt tension test is to see if you can spin alternator by fins - shouldn't be able to easily or at all. Some alts don't have fins so just pick long stretch between pulleys to feel lash/deflection of belt. Engine off - keys out please!

Response From Rick57

It makes the noise at a dead stop yes, only when I turn the wheels in either direction and with the engine off. I just tried that. I can sit in the car with no engine on and turn the steering wheel and it makes the same noise.

Thanks,
Rick

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Ok - forget the belt for this for now. Engine off + noise takes the whole engine out of the picture. You have some part that's dry of grease/lubrication in the steering - duh - and near impossible to pin down from here. You could try hoisting front wheels and turning wheels - listen and check all the front end parts - ball joints, tie rod ends, rack, for anything. Is there a chance you are hearing this noise from the steering column? Some make some plastic to plasic or metal noise between parts that turnwith the wheel and the stationery ones like the housing for the key. Could also be turn signal or other internal parts unseen in column??

T

Rack & Pinion-how bad is this problem & can I fix it?

Showing 2 out of 14 Posts | Show 12 Hidden Posts
Question From audioresearch on Rack & Pinion-how bad is this problem & can I fix it?

The car is a 1983 Mercury LN7. It is essentially the same as a Ford EXP which is better known.

It has a manual (not power steering) rack & pinion steering system. On the passenger side end, the rack has a lot of play in it, it will move up and down inside its outer tube until it hits the top or bottom of the outer tube.

Two mechanics acted like this problem was the end of the world. Just how serious is it really? I think the car has been driven with this problem for almost a year and until a mechanic found it while checking the car for other problems, we did not even know of the problem because when driving the car, the steering seemed to work fine.

If you guys think it really is serious, I am interested in any advice on how I can fix the this unit. I want to avoid replacing it, so please do not advise me to replace it. I have not yet
found any decent cut-away diagrams or photos of a typical unit, so I don't know what is inside it except for the joints at either end of the rack for the tie rods and the pinion/rack gears that mesh. In particular, I have no idea what bushing/bearings/whatever are supposed to be there to hold the rack from flopping around like mine is.

I hope the problem is just a bad bushing and that I can just replace it.

Please advise me on how to try to diagnose the specific cause of the loose rack and how to fix the rack.

Thanks very much.

Response From audioresearch

I looked through the Ford Master Parts Catalog that covers the car and found that there is one bushing used on the passenger side end of the outer tube of the rack/pinion unit. I found one for sale on ebay and am buying it. It is nothing more than a plastic ring that snaps into some slots on the end of the rack/pinion outer tube.

Even with the bushing missing on my unit right now, the inner rack shaft (the one that has a flat section with teeth cut into it) can only move around a little bit until it hits against the inside of the outer tube. It probably actually can't even move as much as a half inch off its correct centered position in any direction. I don't consider that to be dangerous at all, not even close, and it is typical over-reaction from mechanics trying to scare customers into parting with money they really don't have to part with. I'm going to replace the missing part because I think it might affect the alignment of the front wheels, not because I think it is anything that could ever be dangerous.

Not in a million years would I ever pay $100 or more for someone to rebuild the rack/pinion unit when all they have to do is spend less than 10 minutes to install a $12 plastic part.

Response From Hammer Time

OK, it's pretty obvious that you think we are all just a bunch of incompetent fools that are just out to rip you off so you should find your help elsewhere.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Yup - we're all just rip-off artists. Can fix anything for free or $12 bucks and charge anything we want. You'll find out when it doesn't work or last for a week,


T

Response From Hammer Time

Just another moron. After all, what can go wrong when a steering gear gets wasted?

It's not like it could jam or break off a tie rod or anything like that.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Perhaps this can use a new wiring harness! We can suggest someone with enough time on their hands to do that


T


End This

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

I don't think it's serious. The only thing that will happen is you could lose your steering. You don't need that, right

You need a new rack and pinion and probably a couple of tie rod ends, then a wheel alignment.

Response From audioresearch

Thanks for your reply but I'm looking for info on what is inside the rack/pinion that is supposed to stop the rack from having the play that mine has.

Response From Hammer Time

The rack is not serviceable. there are no parts available, They sell remanufactured units.

Response From audioresearch

If someone else can rebuild/remanufacture these,then so can I if I really want to. I have a friend with a machine shop and can make any metal part that is inside these units.

The only question is do I really want to do this myself and that is why I'm trying to find out what internal parts there are that failed so I can scope out what will be involved in fixing or remaking the bad part(s).

I have no use for remanufacturers who sell junk that breaks and believe me if I find an opening, I will make parts available myself and will do everything in my power to put those 3rd-rate junk companies using junk foreign labor smack out of business.

If you or anyone else here can give me any tips about what's inside these units, please do. In the meanwhile, I'm going to take the original rack/pinion unit apart if I can and find out for myself.

Response From Hammer Time

OK, good luck with that.

Response From audioresearch

If I get anywhere pulling the unit apart, I'll post my findings.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

1983! Is that correct? You'll lose a friend in the machine shop trade over this most likely.


Can't believe and not hunting but don't know this car by name at all. Doesn't matter the unit should be sold already done to put on and should go that way only. When it works you give back the old one to be "rebuilt" again if there's any demand for them at all anymore.


The dinky little parts of rebuilding things are not sold easily to non rebuilders at all - forget it. Making your own parts, seals, bearings, bushings with known materials that can tolerate the forces upon it is a whole different world of the repair thing at all.


Yes - you see people make custom cars and things from scraps that make fun shows - even I like that stuff. Some are so targeted for custom work they really can do this stuff part to copy or not.


Find the right part already rebuilt. Machine work or not you will be lost to so much as seal it from water and be wrecked in no time. Just find the parts,


T

Response From Discretesignals

Why don't you take it apart to see what is worn out inside and to see if it something you can fix? There is service information available and parts to rebuild it. For $100 plus shipping you can get a rebuilt unit that is going to use the same parts you would use to rebuild it yourself.

no heat in 87 Mercury Grand Marquis 100+K

Showing 2 out of 13 Posts | Show 11 Hidden Posts
Question From ttommy2tone on no heat in 87 Mercury Grand Marquis 100+K

No heat in my 87 Mercury Grand Marquis. Coolant full and under pressure, no leaks. Car runs good. Blowers blow cold. I have both automatic and manual switches for temp controls. All control baffles also work which channel heat to defrost, floor, ect. There are all kinds of sensors attached to heater hoses at various places, including one that junctions right before the hose goes into/out from the firewall to the heater core. NOTE I did loose the second fan belt that powered the AC unit (bearings froze up and snapped belt) BUT this NO HEAT condition was like this PRIOR to loosing the belt. The belt powers only the AC compressor and what a mechanic referred to as a "pollution pump". Any suggestions on how to troubleshoot the no heat problem? Thanks! This car is VVG condition and runs/drives sweet so I want to keep it up.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hi,

That in line heater hose thing should just be for delaying fan till engine is warmed up for heat request to "floor" only. I'm pretty sure it's just a straight thru heat sensing item - not a check valve but you could by-pass it and just jumper wire the two wires to it so fan works any time requested cold or not.

Follow heat on heater hoses and see if they get cold at some point. Chances are the heater core is plugged a bit and probably would flush out and give you heat again.

Watch out for heater hoses especially if still originals. Clamps are in tough spots to remove and you can break a heater core or the pipe that runs under upper intake manifold so go easy.

Haven't had a duct or diverter door problem with these cars yet so I'm really thinking it's just plugged up heater core itself. Feeling the hoses should be informative,

T

Response From ttommy2tone

Thank you Tom. I will flush heater core by trying to break clamp connections at firewall (as opposed to try to flush whole system). I'll re-post results.

Any advice on the broken fan belt that spins the AC condenser? Can I bypass the AC unit if I don't want to mess around with the freon lines and break it down? (Would brobably have to replace AC condeser with a junkyard unit for cost reasons). The only other thing that that belt turns is the "pollution pump". Does that device do anything crucial?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just so you know: The orig clamps you'll probably find at firewall will loosen up and can tap down on the bolt -VERY CAREFULLY then snip the clamp. One hose is easy to replace the return goes under upper intake and that connection is hard to get at AND that tube goes all the way to the front with a small 10mm hose unseen off of it to upper intake. There's a nightmare waiting for you if stuff breaks! Trust me.

If hose connection and hoses look ok at the firewall you may do better to leave them alone and work with the hose connection for heater core at that temp sensor in line and from up front behind A/C bracket - it's easier there and you can flush just the core from those two.

The heater hoses are "moulded" meaning plain hose just won't do for these but the correct ones are available. I can't stress enough for you to do everything to NOT break off the inlet/oulets where hoses go. The "S" hose behind A/C support bracket even from new can rub unseen so if orig - toss that one while system is empty of coolant - in fact if you have a keeper of a car here toss as many as you can at this age.

Bonne chance mon ami, (good luck)

T

Response From ttommy2tone

So far I've checked the heat in the hoses. Both hoses into and out of the firewall are hot. If that indicates the core is is not blocked, I don't want to break the connections. This car has an automatic temperature control as well as a manual blower. Could this be an electrical problem where the termostat is not reading right? I have been under tha dash and the diverter doors and blowers are working, but I have not taken the plastic cover off to access the core area. Still no hint of heat at all in car with the engine and hoses hot. Should I try to flush core anyway even with the return hode hot?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Not the core if both hoses are hot then hot water gets thru - that test with it running and blower on suggests any heat didn't transfer and came out hot still. A plugged core would be markedly colder coming out when heat requested as any heat would have been removed. Now I'm guessing and I do know this car. Owned an 87 LS - all toys "Spinnaker Blue" - nice car from my Dad back when. He used to complain all the time that the heat or A/C was AFUed but had a pile of papers on the dash blocking the inside air temp sensor which I think is under the dash pad - careful as they are not great vinyl but can remove to inspect up there. I think you'll notice air is constantly going in from dash and up thru a small speaker like vent thru that dash pad - that's where it decides to cool or heat to request.

At this age (I own a bunch still) several things are on the maybe list. Control head itself might not be truly asking for warmer air and ducts are just behaving as told. Truth is I've had so little trouble with the distribution boxes on any in the vinage I have little direct experience! They have been outstandingly dependable! I suspect sensors are dirty. Reveal them and blow compressed air CAREFULLY thru and perhaps backwards too. If you can get your hands on actuators certainly do watch that they react and move to requests. It's a blend door that delivers the mix of heat and fresh air in heat mode I believe and is also sensing it to not be too hot too.

Should just be a bunch of Phillips head screws to take of top of dash pad to take a look there. Again - careful as it will be brittle and small speaker screens may break up so tend to them then or you may be hearing buzzing from debris on the speakers if they are broken while there. I have replaced that with fabric after cleaning those out before.

If the problem is in the control head I really am at a loss as to how to diagnose it except to find the actuator and turn it by hand making the heat come on full temp and chase wiring back to see what's telling it not to??

T

Response From ttommy2tone

I removed the dash pad. There is a small elec sensor right in front of the steering wheel directly under what looks like small speaker holes in the dash pad. I am not sure if it was an air temp sensor though) I blew that out with air. Dash was overall clean. Watched actuators employ on vacuum pressure as I slid the control arm. No difference. Still all cold air. Not sure what you mean "control head" or where it would be found on that car.

No luck so far. I think I am getting to the end of my capability. Don't want to take the whole dash apart when I dont know what I'm looking for. Thank you for helping me through step by step. Any other suggestions?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Arggh! That little dohicky on dash pad does have to do with sensing interior air temp. What I mean by "control head" is the panel you make the requests at. If it just plain doesn't send the right signal even I would struggle to figure that out. So far ZERO have failed so I'd be guessing like you are now?? That colder thru hotter request is interpreted to make a door move which apparently isn't - - again - can you move one by hand and make it blow hot air?

Ok: Perhaps another here has an idea as to the best next approach for diagnosis of this. I'm pretty dang sure heater core isn't it but if you want to flush thru to make sure so muc the better. I can't really understand how both hoses can be hot if ducts are in fact in right position. You said things were clean in general. The whole core plugged up from the outside seems far fetched. I suppose you could take a look/see thru heater blower and see if there's a mess in there??

Next if I/we can't help here. The folks at ACSOURCE - another site I'm at just do A/C stuff and many are from AZ and in Mexico where lots of these cars still are on the road working hard.

The link below the flag should get you to the forum and it does require sign up but it's slow there now and you'll get quick and excellent attention. They can't post pics easy there but just explain what you have ovserved so far which seems well described to me and see what others think. It's a family owned site but does have lots of techs check in all the time.

Just checked that blower delay valve - happen to have a new boxed one in shop - part #Motorcraft - YG 238 - I looked right thru it and it's not a restriction device as I though - just senses temp and allows fan to work when there's some heat detected. Fan will work anyway on defrost or bi-lev choice. When OE the inlet hose which has that thing in it for these cars with Auto A/C also has a small obstruction put inside the hose. It's like 1/2 of a wine cork tapered at one end and a 1/4" or so hole in it. It's there to slow the hot coolant flow down as the 1/4 hole is plenty. You can feel for it it hose isn't too hard. If it's missing it will still work but you get a rushing sound of coolant in dash sometimes. I know - I mistakingly left that thing out on one of of them for a customer and ended up buying that car and it worked so I never put it back in - still got that car and parting it out for two others right now! Everything works - just rusted out. That happens to be a 89 Town Car - same stuff almost exactly as GM and CVs.

Again: Re-check those heater hoses when running, heat on full heat, full blower. Inlet hose should be hot and outlet that goes to rear of upper intake plenum should be warm to hot if working. If cold return it really can only be restricted, not flowing at all, low on coolant OR IF JUST WARM AND NOT HOT THE DANG AIR SHOULD BE WARM COMING INTO THE CAR proving where the heat went.

I really want to see this fixed for you and me too! If you can think of any other observations we have missed let me/us know. I think I've covered about all I can think of,

Tom

Response From ttommy2tone

Tom, I dismantled part of dash and glove box door to expose a large vacuum piston that services the main black plastic housing that houses the duct work around the heater core (i think?). When I started to apply pressure and remove the vacuum hose, it sounded like a door released inside and I immediately got heat.

I couldn't get at this one easily without dismantling the dash around the glove box. I got a better view of what did what. Thank you much for your advice. I got heat. I'll have to see if there is sufficient vacuum source or if the door or accuator are stuck. What and where creates the vacuum tube vacuum source? Thanks again for taking me through this!

Ttommy2tone
North Andover MA

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I'll insert replys in CAPS

I wanted to doublecheck the idea of a clogged core, so I disconncted the hose going into the firewall (the one more to the passenger side). It was the hose with the plastic T shaped sensor. I blew even slight pressure into the hose toward the core and coolant rushed out the opposite end (so it seemed completely free of obstruction).

That little dohicky on dash pad does have to do with sensing interior air temp.
Is there any way of jump wiring the sensor to fool the system that it needs heat? That would tell me if the sensor is the problem. If i take out the fuse for the climate control, would it bypass the switch and call for heat? NOT REAL SURE ON THAT. CHECK ANY AND ALL FUSES ANYWAY. IN A CASE I MENTIONED BEFORE THERE WAS A PILE OF PAPER BLOCKING IT WAS THE WHOLE PROBLEM.

I suppose you could take a look/see thru heater blower and see if there's a mess in there??
Do you mean from the outside of the car, the screen in the plasic housing mounted outside the car by the wiper well that goes into the back of the blower motor?
Can I access any mechanical door from there that would open the air channell to pass over the core? BLOWER MOTOR AND SHROUD UNDERHOOD IF REMOVED MIGHT REVEAL A PROBEM??

colder thru hotter request is interpreted to make a door move which apparently isn't - - again - can you move one by hand and make it blow hot air?
I can only see one door on the passenger side against the outside Rt wall above where the right foot would rest. There is an arm connected to a vacuum piston that opens the door to what appears to be the blower on the other side of the firewall. That piston actuator attached to that door does not seem to open that door. When I open it manually (and hold it open) there is still no HOT air coming out of that box. SHOULD BE AT LEAST 3 ACTUALTORS/DOORS - 1- POSITION, BLEND, FRESH OR RECIRC AIR. SOME MIGHT BE SEEN WITH GLOVEBOX REMOVED.

I don't see any other doors under the dash I can access. There are 2 other hard black sealed plastic cases under the dash mounted to the firewall. One is in the middle of the passenger side directly in line wth (I think) the heater core and the blower. The other is directly in the middle (behind area). The vacuum tube activated pistons have an arm that goes directly into the boxes, so I cant open any other doors manually. The arms do move when affected so I am guessing that the arms should be opening the ducts inside. There are some pistons that do not activate, so I tried to manually move those arms to effect the doors inside the box. When I did, I still did not feel heat.

I did find a snap junction of the plastic tubes where 3 (of 8) tubes had melted closing off the vacuum. I thought I had found the problem and cut and repaired the tubes and reattached them. That must have made more of the vacuum pistons move (if my vacuum source is sufficient) but it did not solve my heat problem. FIX ALL THOSE VACUUM/PLASTIC HOSES - THEY COULD BE THE WHOLE PROLBLEM. CAN SPLICE WINDSHIELD WASHER HOSE OVER THE BAD AREAS.

Just checked that blower delay valve - happen to have a new boxed one in shop - part #Motorcraft - YG 238 - I looked right thru it and it's not a restriction device as I though - just senses temp and allows fan to work when there's some heat detected.
Where is that located and how would it effect the no heat condition? Is that the T sensor under the hood that controls the engine fan? BLOWER DELAY IS JUST THAT AND THAT ALONE. IT CAN'T STOP OR CHANGE THE TEMP - IT JUST DISALLOWS BLOWER TILL ENGINE IS WARM AS TO NO BLOW COLD EARLY AT YOU. I ROUTINELY JUMP THAT SO BLOWERS WORK ON REQUEST AND DON'T WAIT FOR FASTER HEAT THAN THE PRESET FOR THOSE. WHEN IT'S ZERO OUT 40F AIR FEELS FINE - I'LL TAKE THAT EARLY!

The more things we rule out, the more determined I get to at least identify the problem (even if not fix it). I still think it is something simply identified if I knew the right sequence of steps to test. I'll try the ACsource site. Thanks again for your help, Tom. I'll post my results. THOSE PLASTIC VAC LINES ARE MY GUESS NOW. I THINK THE ACTUATORS YOU HAVEN'T SEEN YET ARE VACUUM CONTROLLED NOT ELECTRIC MOTORS. I HEAR THEM "HISS" IN MY OWN CHANGING REQUESTS. THEY'RE SMALL BUT COUNT. ALSO THE SOUP CAN WILL MAKE DUCTS DEFAULT TO DEFROST ONLY IF LEAKING. JUST PLUG IT AND IT WORKS BUT DEFAULT WHILE DRIVING IF LEAKING. I HAVE SPARES/REBUILDS OF THOSE.

Ttommy2tone
North Andover MA (just up the road) SEND ME A PM IF YOU WANT AND CALL ME. YOU AREN'T THAT FAR AWAY FROM MARLBOROUGH, MA BUT WE MIGHT GET MORE DONE FASTER JUST OVER THE PHONE. ACSOURCE HAS THE TECHS THAT ARE STILL DEALING WITH THESE MORE OFTEN NOW AS JUNKERS BUT MUST HAVE WORKING A/C IN THE SW + MEXICO - WE NEED THE HEAT JUST AS MUCH! THE CARS LAST LONGER THERE WITHOUT THE RUST BULLCRAP WE HAVE HERE AND THEY DIE FROM THAT BEFORE THESE PROBLEMS CROP UP - HENCE I DON'T SEE THESE TROUBLES BUT HAVE WITH THE PLASTIC VACUUM LINES. GOOD LUCK - CALL IF YOU WISH. I'LL GIVE YOU PREFERRED # BY PM, T

Response From ttommy2tone

Tom, I edited my previous post after your reply. Here it is below.

Tom, I dismantled part of dash and glove box door to expose a large vacuum piston that services the main black plastic housing that houses the duct work around the heater core (i think?). When I started to apply pressure and remove the vacuum hose, it sounded like a door released inside and I immediately got heat.

I couldn't get at this one easily without dismantling the dash around the glove box. I got a better view of what did what. Thank you much for your advice. I got heat. I'll have to see if there is sufficient vacuum source or if the door or accuator are stuck. What and where creates the vacuum tube vacuum source? Thanks again for taking me through this!

Ttommy2tone
North Andover MA

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

WAY GREAT TO HEAR TOMMY! Take note of what you touched that was stuck. Those doors should have a pretty strong "home" position to be changed by vacuum motor/actuator. As I said before these are VERY dependable and I've worked on these exact ones since forever and never had this type of fault as a feather in my cap to tell exactly what would be the trouble. NS - I own three right now with the same heater/distribution box - all work and all have had same faults. Owned a few more before the ones now too and worked on dozens - most all just the same routine issues.

The doors that should look like choke plates to fit inside the distribution box should have either felted (like window rubber) or plain rubber ends and I suppose could jam up.

Just fun and for notes on these cars in general that seems common to all in the rust belts:

*That soup can will rust at attaching thing on bottom but can be fixed. First you notice upon accelleration or heavy load that all ducts go to defrost.

*The control panel will act up on the plain "floor" setting. If you nudge the request just a tad towards bi-level the fan will operate on auto mode for another 100,000 miles! Common issue.

*The inline delay is plain stupid IMO. I just jump that with wire and tie the plug to the silver A/C return line from black accumulator and leave it. One I'm restoring to near new so I bought the stupid temp delay thing to make it original - still in box - that's why I had the part #. I actually hate ATC in cars - just let me blast heat or air full blast and adjust the fan myself thankyou! I hate it in Winter when there's 2 feet of snow and an inch of ice under it all over car and windows and you run them for an hour to clear off to move and the damn climate control is happy inside at 80F when you want all you can get to clear the car off and it's slow because of the ATC.

* Trans support bars give out at frame ends. If not broken now spray grease all over them as when they break the trans will drop down and fan on engine will hit fan shroud underhood and scare the crap out of you! Hard to get that bar used - call me if you need one.

* Door lock motor are special too. If they fail in open or lock mode some will prevent manual override - another great idea from FORD! I keep those in stock and make up the rods as needed for fronts, rears, left and rights as needed.

* If you have the trunk pulldown feature and use the trunk a lot........... Disconnect battery, open trunk when closed and unplug the thing in its down position. When those fail they fail UP and your luggage gets wet! Cute!

* A/C - They must be already done but the springlock O rings all fail. You should be on 134a by now - an easy convertion. Shaft seal on OE compressor will leak over Winter on cars stored outdoors and show no evidence when checked and charged up in Spring - call me!

* Glove box lock. Right now go out and spray the two tabs with WD-40. When they break just one will pull in and you have to remove glove box by the hinge to open it. That latch I have and they are getting hard to find. If the car is nice you still keep the color of vinyl with a used replacement. They only made a few key types for those and you can get lucky and OE key will still work.

* Heater hose "s" type thing behind brackets for A/C compressor will rub if OE - toss it now. Must remove plate but not that hard to do. The one on rear to under upper intake manifold is a b*tch! It goes to a metal hose that will rust out so spray the rest of your WD-40 all under there now. There's a 10mm hose off of it you can't see or fix without removing the upper manifold that goes over to throttle plate where you see it.

* Fuel pum relays. They are under plastic cover on driver's inner fender on plate with 8mm little bolts. You can get it out by just bending it up. Have a universal spare with you - they go like a bulb and you walk. It's the one with the green skirt on the relay/plug.

* Spray aerosol grease all over the rear spring lands on differential. Those rust such that you need a replacement rear end! Spray all fuel and brake lines. One hidden behind driver's plastic inner fender skirt will rust out and empty your gas tank for you - nice FORD safety feature! Guess the Pinto guys were still at it!

* Chrome on shifter, directional lever will peel and is sharper than a surgeon's scaple! Just peel it all off or wrap it. They can be replaced if you care.

* Front brake calipers use a rubber thing that will allow whole caliper to rattle badly. Whole rebuilt caliper is under $20 bucks so don't bother replacing just those.

* Put on right angle grease fittings on inner tie rod ends. You can't grease them with steering in certain positions if you don't point them down and you know the quickie shops don't steer the car to do them. Do grease the pitman arm lots. They really do wear out!

*Seal at downward shaft of steering box is common. Problem solved is slow now with Trans-X - last ions if you catch it.

**** tons more easy quirks on these.
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Ok - I just bashed FORD for some not so "Better Ideas" in these cars but face it - they give a huge car ride and sip fuel for the size of them. Trunk can hold 1/2 dozen dead bodies with no problem with room for luggage!

Many routine items are easy and inexpensive on this vintage. Exhaust is VERY reasonable as are all brake parts.

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I'm retired but kept two of this body for keepers and one for parts as the New England bone yards have squished most all of them now for the metal. Same basic drivetrain whether a Crown Vic, Grand Marquis, or Town Car which is just 4" longer in back seat and interior more of a pain but are chiefly the same cars.

Good luck. Hit me/us up with any future issues with this. Chances are I've "been there, done that" already with these - except this diverter door you just went thru!

T

Response From ttommy2tone

10-4. This is a job I can do with the right advice. I will proceed carefully. I know the value of replacing worn parts BEFORE they go and cause MORE SERIOUS problems and inconvienience. Appreciate the detailed advice. Will post further questions,... results.