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Dorman
2000 International 3000IC Throttle Position Sensor Dorman

P311-397CEED    904-7507  New

2587164C92

Qty:
229.05
Dorman Throttle Position Sensor
  • Product Attributes:
    • Adjustable: No
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Connector Gender: Female
    • Connector Quantity: 1
    • Connector Shape: Rectangular
    • Electrical Connection Type: Male
    • Installation Hardware Included: Yes
    • Material: Plastic
    • Mounting Bracket Included: No
    • Mounting Hardware Included: Yes
    • Mounting Position: Accelerator Pedal
    • Terminal Count: 6
    • Terminal Gender: Male
    • Terminal Quantity: 6
    • Terminal Type: Blade
    • Throttle Body Mounted: No
    • Wire Quantity: 0
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation
2000 - International 3000IC T444E

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Really need help ford 5.0 idle surge terrible mpg

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From seedublu3 on Really need help ford 5.0 idle surge terrible mpg

1987 Ford E-150 van. 5.0L 148k

Original trouble was coolant leaking from intake gasket and water pump. Both were replaced. While doing that a basic tune-up was done. Plugs/wires/cap/rotor. Air and oil filters, and obviously new oil and coolant. Followed timing procedure with the spout wire and set at 10 deg BTDC.

Current condition: Runs Terrible at idle. (surging badly) runs bad at low speed. (lopes or gallups?) and coughs). runs fine at highway speed. mpg less than 5. Also occasional hesitation when coming off a stop sign but when it goes, it goes like a shot! Exhaust smells bad and is black.

Already tried: Changed fuel regulator, throttle position sensor, map sensor, idle air motor. Pulled and cleaned intake air temp sensor.

Any help would be great, thanks!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ideas+ things to check:

Spray carb clean at EGR and see if it reacts to that and if not try removing it (should be easy) and check the pintle. Clean it and push on it. While off spray inside and pintle should pretty well hold carb cleaner. On wood, press on it, it will depress and let cleaner out - a maybe.

* Vacuum leaks - spray carb clean around and if it changes or stalls that's the area
* Check timing again. Rev engine a bit and watch timing. It will move but fluctuations not too good. Also, take dist cap off with timing at zero and turn crank bolt one way then the other noting how may degrees balancer turns before rotor in distributor turns. 5 degrees is enough. This has a plastic cam gear and they don't like age, never mind miles.
* Gotta check valve timing and take a look at harmonic balancer that it turns true. Rare to me on these engines but they can slip yet be on and look fine.
* If you don't mind setting your timing again, see if it improves by advancing or retarding timing then put back where it should be as info.
* Take a plain vacuum reading of actual manifold vacuum at idle. If not close to 18Hg report that. Give the engine a quick rev and it will go down then up and then stable when you let go. If running rough this is a bit inconclusive but if constantly low an indication of valve timing.

Was whole intake manifold gasket replaced or just the upper one also called a plenum to get at the metal heater hose line under it that is common to rust out.

Jump on this as if you are seeing black out exhaust it will harm the converters if let go too long,

T

Response From seedublu3

Thanks "T". I will get on all of that asap. And it was upper (plenum) and lower intake gaskets.

Response From seedublu3 Top Rated Answer

Tom, Thank You!!!! It was the vacuum. Rented a vac pump/gauge and did some troubleshooting, after the EGR and timing proved good. It was way up in the plenum area, on the tree. The one to the MAP was so misaligned that it had no Hg to the sensor. I really appreciate your help!!

P.S. For the record, I did not "Throw parts at it"! My friend had an identical motor that was bad internally. We just used all the parts that I changed as a troubleshooting tool, when the diagnostics pointed in that direction.

Thanks again!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Low or no vacuum to MAP would be telling it that engine is under load or at wide open throttle and deliver extra fuel for that. It got fooled and was doing its thing with bad info.

Thanks for coming back with the find and fix. Now go give it a good HWY run to burn off extra fuel in converters. Safely from an on ramp for example when all is clear, near stop and floor it to legal speed limit (I can't suggest speeding) - They'll get hot and probably will self correct unless way overloaded,

T

97 pontiac grand am 2.4l missing and loosing power

Showing 2 out of 19 Posts | Show 17 Hidden Posts
Question From James_85_jr on 97 pontiac grand am 2.4l missing and loosing power

when i drive up hill or try to take off quickly the car will loose power then start missing then it throws a code o2 sensor insufishent switching bank 1 and lean fuel condition it is imposible to stomp down the gas pedel when driving and get the car past 3000 rpm, so far iv replaced o2 sensor, intake air temp sensor, coolent temp sensor, map sensor, crank position sensor, cam position sensor, throttle position sensor, intake air control sensor, intake manafold, coil pack, spark plugs the car right now gets between 10 and 14mpg and its a 4 cylinder any help would be greatful


oh something else i just checked tonight was that my intake manifold according to my scanner is only got 8.5637in hg vacuum is this normal and my long term fuel trim is 21.875% my engine advance is between 19 and 24' o2 sensor is 0.6v all that while the engine was at 175' idling

Response From oakleyrodney

Check to make sure the catalyc converter is not pluged.....

Response From James_85_jr

Check to make sure the catalyc converter is not pluged.....

i took the exhaust pipe off from the manifold and it still ran the same but louder.
hope it hasn't jumped time that would be the third engine that has done that the other 2 when they jumped time they warped all the valves and died immediately.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

One bird for two stones: Take a real vacuum reading at known manifold vacuum at idle with a "T" in line to any item tapped into still has its vacuum. If reading is good (18 Hg or so as said) and is dang near the same reading at 2,000 no load rpms then exhaust restriction is pretty well ruled out. Less than 18 unless at some wild high altitude where you are would lead me back to valve timing - be sure that's right and a compression test may show even but low all around if valve timing is off.

If all adds up there we think of what next to check,

T

Response From James_85_jr

i did a compression test and each cylinder had between 185 and 195psi i don't have a real vacuum gauge right now so i cant test the vacuum right now

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

If your sure the engine is misfiring under load and it has new coils and plugs, then what you need to do is replace the white plastic coil housing. This is a very common problem on that engine. That housing works like a distributor cap on that engine and they crack internally but you can't see the crack. Change the plug boots at the same time if you haven't already.

Response From James_85_jr

i'm going to get the new coil housing tomorrow i checked the timing and it didn't jump the last time i drove it it just started missing real bad and bogged down and killed the motor and it fired right back up when i tried to start it so the one notch out of time didn't do anything that i can notice

Response From Hammer Time

so the one notch out of time didn't do anything that i can notice

If your talking about the timing chain, be very careful. That engine will bend every valve in a heartbeat if it goes out of time.

Response From James_85_jr

i know about them bending the valves this is the third engine put into this car because of that fact. wish it wasn't like that

ended up being the coil housing that had cracks in it making it miss now it runs great time for me to start working on one of the other 4 cars that is torn up at my house

Response From Hammer Time

Yep, those coil housings will get you every time. Thanks for report back with the fix.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

James; No misfire codes? What kind of fuel pressure are you seeing? Plugged fuel filter? Dirty injectors? Check injector resistance on all four.

Response From James_85_jr

James; No misfire codes? What kind of fuel pressure are you seeing? Plugged fuel filter? Dirty injectors? Check injector resistance on all four.

i would check the resistance on the injectors but i don't know how many ohm they supposed to be, as for the plugged fuel filter i doubt it the fuel pump and filter and tank was replaced about 4 months ago the tank sprang a leak and figured i'd go all out on it sense it had so many miles on it.

Response From steve01832

Hey, Loren is still alive!! lol

Steve

Response From Tom Greenleaf

That's up there for compression so vacuum would also be fine at idle. For now I'm out of ideas on what to chase down next

T

Response From James_85_jr

i took the top edge of the timing cover loose just enouf to look in on the cam gears and i noticed that the plastic guide at the top is very loose and the chain isn't rubbing it also it appears that the exhaust cam is about one tooth out of time when the front cam is in time could it be that the chain guides are just worn out?

also it seems that some how the last time i started it i smelled gas fumes real strong and finally traced it down to gas being in the oil somehow. you can pull the dipstick and smell gas on it if this is relevant

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Gas smell in oil isn't good! Usually a fuel injector overdoing it and you might find oil too full. That and a tooth off needs to be tended to for further understanding of any misfire or loss of power which may be solved by repairing that. Surprised compression was that high even off just one tooth!

T

Response From James_85_jr

it was due for a oil change anyway i set the timing correct today and drove it had tons of power till it jumped again i think sounded like a gravel popped up and hit the car then it started doing the same thing again. i think i need a new timing tensioner, chain, and guides the top guide isn't even touching the chain.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just where is this 8.56 Hg vacuum reading coming from? At idle, manifold vacuum would normally be 18 Hg or a bit more. If checked at actual manifold vacuum and that low surprised it runs and suggests valve timing if off,

T

Response From James_85_jr

Just where is this 8.56 Hg vacuum reading coming from? At idle, manifold vacuum would normally be 18 Hg or a bit more. If checked at actual manifold vacuum and that low surprised it runs and suggests valve timing if off,

T

i scanned it with a obd2 elm327 when i seen the 8.56hg i thought the map sensor may be bad and replaced it still got the same reading

93 deville transmission problem

Showing 2 out of 14 Posts | Show 12 Hidden Posts
Question From mike93 on 93 deville transmission problem

Hey how are you doing I have a 1993 cadillac deville 4.9l motor with 103,000 miles and have a turbo-hydramatic 4T60E transmission. Ok here is my problem 4 months ago I had my transmission rebuilt at aamco and the first day i got the car back it didn't feel right and i told them and they told me drive it it needs to be broken-in and i said ok then a month later it still didnt feel rite i bring the car back they drive it they say it's nothing 4 months later here i am and are still having the same problem ive checked everything on the car fuel pressure vacuum changed wires spark plugs egr valve throttle position sensor catalytic converter everything and nobody can tell me what's wrong ok here's my problem at all temeratures the car does this when hitting 45mph going into over drive the car shifts hard then after it shifts the car starts bucking jerking the car hesitates and shudders the car has been at aamco 5 times and nobody helps me the car is there right now so we will see what they say what do you think it could be please help me!

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

I don't do too much internal trans repairs but it really sounds like a problem with converter lockup up for the overdrive.

I do believe that you should give a shop a chance to repair any errors or oversights, we're all human. From what you've posted it sounds like you've done that. FYI transmissions don't need to be "broken in".

I'm reading between the lines here since I didn't see it your post and correct me if I'm wrong but... Is the trans shop saying that the problem you are experiencing is being caused by something else other than the transmission?? If that is the case you may have to have another shop diag & document the problem.

Also this problem needs to be addressed while the repairs are still under warranty..........

Response From mike93

They kept telling me it's an engine misfire and i know that's not what it is the car is at the shop right now we will see what they say now because im trying to get this done before the warranty is over i have 8 more months left the car started doing this as soon as it came out of the shop. And yeah i didn't think so but they had told me the trans needed to be broken in. so what do you think it can be with lockup torque converter or solenoid or what thanks for your help i really appreciate it.

Response From Sidom

Without being there to feel the problem it's tough. From your description it does sound like an o/d problem. A quick check to help narrow it down would be to drive the car and take it out of o/d and if the problem disappears at those speeds & rpms then that would really be pointing at the tranny...

I can tell you from experience that sometimes other problems do pop up after a repair thru no fault of the tech or shop. I wouldn't say it's common but I have seen other stuff fail right there in the shop and it's always a bad deal and I can see the other side. It was fine before but now it's not...

The shops I have worked for and work for, if it was tech error then it gets fixed and customer informed, no questions or arguments . If it wasn't tech error then at least the new problem is identified..... We worked on X and now Y is failing thru no fault of working on X.

I'm going to give your shop the benefit of the doubt but it would really help them if they could tell you what the new problem is. Now they do transmissions and maybe don't get into drivability problems so they might not be equipped to diag a running problem... In this case you may have to take it to a shop that diags drivability problems to get the problem documented. I would let the 1st shop know that if it comes back to a tranny problem they should pick up the diag bill.

If the trans shop has thoroughly check out the trans and are confident its good and the problem is somewhere else then the other shop will be able to find it and repair it and this was just bad timing. If it is a problem with the tranny they need to honor their warranty and there is no reason you should be out any money due to their inability to diagnose the problem the 1st, 2nd or 3rd time........

It wouldn't hurt to take it to another tranny shop and see if they'll take it for a quick spin and give you their opinion on it.

Response From mike93

Yeah that's what i had forgotten to tell you i tried that one day drive it in all gears manually and the car didn't do any of that i didn't do it for to long because i know you can hurt the transmission that way but thats how i know it's a trasmission problem

Response From Sidom

Well from what you've posted, it sure sounds like you are getting the run around from this shop. It sounds like they aren't going to do anything on their own and you are going to have to force the issue.

I'm not familiar with PA. I would check and see if there is a state agency that deals with automotive repairs. If so that would be your 1st step, have them mediate the situation. If not then you need to take the car to a reputable transmission shop & have them document the problem. Go back to the 1st shop and tell them if they don't fix the problem you are going to pay shop B to fix it and settle the matter legally..

Going this route you need to have your paper work in order. The original WO and all the WOs for the return visits to shop A & the WO stating the problem from shop B. If you go into court saying I went back 6 times and the shop B says its this with no paper work to back up your claim, you probably won't get very far. Shop A would say. " He never brought it back once, this is the 1st I've heard" and now it's your word against his.

I don't like putting shops in a bad light. Most shop are honest and do quality work but like any business in any field you have good ones & bad ones. I'm just getting one side of the story here but from what I've read, it sounds like this shop feels like this problem isn't real serious and is just hopping you go away........

Response From mike93

He called me today and said they checked the torque converter and shift sloenoids and everything was good and i talked to the technician who rebuilt my trans and said he's gonna look at it again tomorrow.

Response From Sidom

Well sounds like they're checking it out finally....That's good....... Hopefully they get it going for you and all will be well.....

Response From mike93

Yeh finally is right i hope they find out the problem and fix it.

Response From mike93

Im still having problems they are telling me the car is not doing the things i described i also told him th car is getting 10mpg when it used to get 15 to 16mpg in the city it's the hesitating surging and not the power it used to have nobody can figure it out.

Response From Sidom

Have you ever gone on a test drive with them and point out the problem. If not then it's time for one where you can show the tech the problem as it's happening.............

Response From mike93

That's what im gonn do again already did it once and still can't figure out the problem.

Response From mike93

The main problem is the car hesitates surges and bogs down at speeds 35 and up what else do you think it can be?

Response From Sidom

It seems the story is changing just a bit, if I remember correctly you said you were have this problem at 45mph & above and only when in O/D. If this is happening at 35 and in any gear then that open up a lot more possibilities. The trans won't go into o/d below 45.

There is a lot of things that could cause this problem, fuel pressure, restricted exhaust, MAF sensor, it's a long list. It sounds like they've double & triple checked their work and are telling you it's good. At this point I think it's time to confirm or rule out a drivability issue. They're a tranny shop and since they aren't giving you a definite answer it sounds like they don't do that type of work. I would have to reread the thread but I do remember you posting a list of parts that were replaced..but considering how many different things could cause this, it would be better to find the problem than changing more parts in hopes of fixing this.

If you are going to do this yourself It might be better to start a new thread in the troubleshooting section (this one is getting kinda long). If you do, get the codes pulled, a fuel pressure reading, vacuum reading at idle & high rpms and if you could post some data stream info, that would be huge (if you can get stream info, get it when the problem is occurring). Another long shot that would be helpful would be some exhaust backpressure readings....

I don't know if I mentioned it before so I'll mention it now but I have seen certain areas fail on a car when work is being done to another area thru no fault of the tech. Trust me.....NOBODY likes it when this happens and a lot of times the only time it's believed is when it gets confirmed by a unbiased 3rd party.

Older Ram Van troubles. Need advice!

Showing 2 out of 15 Posts | Show 13 Hidden Posts
Question From Brady Jenn on Older Ram Van troubles. Need advice!

Hello!

I have a:
1994 dodge ram van b350 5.9L
150k miles

The vehicle has run like a top ever since i bought it, till now.

From the beginning....for a couple weeks i noticed the engine turning over for longer and longer before starting after being shut off for a while. Usually fires up instantly. Then i was stuck in traffic one day at the end of a 2 hour drive and the van seemed to hesitate when i tried accelerating. Pulled off highway and it promptly died. Would turn over but not start back up. 10 mins later started up and took me home just fine. Took it on numerous short trips to the store no problems but Replaced the ECC, as was advised by a friend, before risking a long trip. After installing new ECC i took it about 20 mins down the highway, ran great. Reached destination, turned off engine let sit about an hour. Started up to go home and drove about 10 blocks before dying at a redlight.

Gets weird from here...

The van would turn over and over but not start. Then all of a sudden it would not turn over at all making no solenoid sound or anything every time i tried....30 mins later the car turns over and starts just fine. I drive home.

Since getting the van home i have changed the spark plugs. Now the engine will start right up after sitting for a while, it will idle fine and rev fine for a few minutes then make weird noises and die. Will turn over and start then promptly die again only to no longer start at all until is left sitting for a while.


Anyone have any thoughts?

I have tested the TPS and it is only reading .01 to .04 volts. Its grounding tested fine. Seems like i need a new TPS but these symptons seem like something more than that....

Response From Tom Greenleaf

First clean up the battery cable connections at both ends of each. There's no reason to bother with TPS or other things if you can't get the solenoid to click for just the starter!


Check fuel pressure and leak down, should hold pressure with key on engine off for some time,


T

Response From Brady Jenn

The ECC is the electronic control computer. Was advised to try replacing that first because they were always a week link in the older dodges.

I dont have any error codes or anything like that cuz its a 1994. Wasnt till 1996 that dodge implemented a digital diagnostic system.

Im going to check the fuel pressure and leak down this afternoon. Battery connections are fine and has not gone dead once. Thats why it was weird that 2nd time the car quit on me, there was 20 min period where nothing would happen when i tried to turn the engine over. Only to fire up like normal 10 mins later.

Thanks for the responses!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Does this have a working "Check Engine Light" = CEL? Put key to run but not running and bulbs should light as a bulb test.


Then follow instructions Discretesignals gave you a few posts back for blinks. Converts blinks to #s and those are the codes - yes even before OBDII of the '96 model and up.
It should at least give a code that it's communicating - if not go from there,


T

Response From Brady Jenn

Ok yes there is a check engine light on. Key on off on off on did not make it blink however.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Long but try this if it pastes........




Easy step by step guide on how to gather and define Chrysler OBD1 trouble codes, this information is for vehicles made before 1996.

Difficulty Level - 1

Step 1 - To start gathering trouble codes turn the ignition key on off in rapid succession five times with the cycle ending in the "ON" position.

Step 2 - Once this activation has started the check engine light will start to flash, the first set of check engine light flashes will be the first digit of the two digit code.

Step 3 - After the check engine light pauses for a short time it will start to blink again starting the second digit identification and completing the code's second number. If additional trouble codes are stored in the computer the first digit will begin to flash, and then the second digit. For example: check engine light flashes four times, pauses and then flashes three more times, the code is 43.

Step 4 - The check engine light will flash five and then five (55) meaning the code gathering is over. The system will flash 12 if there are no codes stored in the computer's memory.

Step 5 - To clear codes disconnect the negative battery terminal for 30 seconds and reconnect.


Domestic Code Definitions


11 - Camshaft signal or ignition signal, no reference signal during cranking.

12 - Memory to controller has been cleared within 50-100 engine starts.

13 - Map sensor not detecting any change during test.

14 - Map voltage too high or too low.

15 - Vehicle speed sensor, no signal detected.

16 - Knock sensor circuit. open or short detected.

17 - Low engine temperature, possible thermostat fault.

21 - Oxygen sensor signal, neither rich or lean detected.

22 - Coolant sensor voltage low.

23 - Air charge voltage high/low detected.

24 - Throttle position sensor voltage high/low.

25 - Automatic idle speed motor driver circuit, short or open detected.

26 - Injectors 1,2,3 peak current not reached.

27 - Injector control circuit does not respond to control signal.

31 - Purge solenoid circuit, open or short detected.

32 - EGR solenoid circuit, open or short detected.

33 - A/C clutch relay circuit, open or short detected.

34 - Speed control servo solenoid, open or short detected.

35 - Radiator fan control relay circuit, open or short detected.

36 - Waste-gate solenoid, open or short detected.

37 - Part throttle unlock(PTU) circuit, open or short detected.

41 - Charging system circuit not responding to control signal.

42 - Fuel pump or auto shutdown (ASD) relay voltage sensed at controller.

43 - Ignition control circuit not responding.

44 - Battery temperature voltage circuit problem.

45 - Turbo boost limit exceeded-map sensor detects over-boost.

46 - Battery voltage too high.

47 - Battery voltage too low.

51 - Air/fuel at limit.

52 - Logic module fault.

53 - Internal controller failure.

54 - Camshaft reference circuit not detected.

55 - End of message.

61 - BARO read solenoid, open or short detected.

62 - EMR mileage not stored.

63 - Eprom write denied.

64 - Flex fuel sensor signal out of range.

65 - Manifold tuning valve, open or short detected.

66 - No ccd messages.

76 - Ballast bypass relay, open or short detected.

77 - Speed control relay, open or short detected.



Import Code Definition

1 - Oxygen sensor.

2 - Crank engine sensor.

3 - Air flow sensor.

4 - Barometric pressure sensor.

5 - Throttle position sensor.

6 - Motor position sensor.

7 - Engine coolant temperature sensor.

8 - No.1 cylinder tdc sensor.

12 - Air flow sensor.

13 - Air temperature sensor.

15 - SC motor position sensor.

21 - Engine coolant temperature sensor.

22 - Crank angle sensor.

24 - Vehicle speed sensor.

25 - Barometric pressure sensor.

31 - Knock sensor.

32 - Manifold pressure sensor.

36 - Ignition timing adjustment signal.

39 - Oxygen sensor.

41 - Injector circuit

42 - Fuel pump.

43 - EGR failure.

44 - Ignition coil circuit failure.

52 - Ignition coil circuit failure.

53 - Ignition coil circuit failure.

55 - IAC valve position sensor.

59 - Heated oxygen sensor.

61 - Transaxle control unit cable.

62 - Warm up control valve position sensor



Helpful Information

Chrysler, Dodge and Plymouth automobiles have a diagnostic trouble code retrieval method, unlike Gm and Ford which have a data port connector to gather codes.

Response From Brady Jenn

Ok awesome! Had no idea this was a thing. Wasnt on/offing the key enough times. I got the engine light to blink 12 and 24. The 12 i think is just confirming there was a new ECC installed and the 24 is low TPS voltage which is what i tested for and found out at first, question is what caused my tps to read low voltage? It is getting good ground and reads a change when throttle is applied but is maxing out at .04 volts. Way to low

Thanks all for the good help

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK - Just because of age and any voltage reading on any wire check the connections on stuff like this first. I tend to like WD-40 for some first or only, then dielectric grease to follow up. Heat, dirt, age all get involved THEN if you even can know the info is good.


Wiggle test wires and see if your readings change?


Do remember the #s are the circuit noted not telling you what to do about it. TPS you should get a sweep with a multi-meter nice and smooth. Some things you can check like that or dig out exact specs for assorted things,


T

Response From Brady Jenn

Ok double checked all conections. Tps still reading .01 to .04 volts. Way low. I already got a new tps (autozone across street from my house). Can i just take out old part plug in new one? Do i have to disconnect the battery or reset computer or anything?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I didn't see anything on that list showing a problem with TPS circuit and can't confirm accuracy of that list either. If you don't wish to test your voltage of TPS (throttle position sensor) by moving throttle and looking at voltage sweep when turning throttle go ahead but no guarantee that has anything to do with it. If cheap enough and you are willing guess I can't stop you.


Generally if you reset codes the real ones will stay there. If you've been unplugging things that will mess up accuracy moreso ont OBDII systems.


There's only so much help you get from codes on OBD1 - know that.
Weak with Mopar. I think repeating and ending with "12" may just mean it's communicating with GM which makes no sense but I forget too just off the top of my head?


T

Response From Brady Jenn

I did test the voltage sweep with the throttle on the tps. It registered .01 closed and swept smoothly to .04 wide open. However i should have at least 1 full volt to 5 according to what ive read.

The only thing ive been unplugging is the tps and ECC (when new part was installed)

Understood that that list may not be accurate but the number 24 corresponded to low tps voltage. I just installed the new tps and it still tests low voltage on my multimeter however the check engine light no longer blinks the 24 code. Just 12 now..weird

Car fires right up now but doesnt rev smoothly and pops sometimes...


Thanksagain!

Response From Hammer Time

It should range from around .4-.6 at idle up to just short of 5V at full throttle so yes it does sound like you have a bad TPS.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You've run across as much as I have for this vintage Mopar. TPS is sensing throttle position by its name. VSS could be a combo of vehicle speed for shifting, timing, actual vehicle speed for speedometer (doubt it but not sure on that) and would think a failure there would be about shifting more than anything plain running. If wires crossed or touched all bets off.


I'd probably ohm test the TPS without empowering the truck at all. You already know the range it should be and a new one if it does the same you just have to find where it's not getting thru.


Plain plug ins don't like too much unplugging and re-plugging in. Ones with a bail to hold together frequently break allowing corrosion or disconnect. Some pins will fold over and so on. Tons older than this plain wire insulation gives out if you bend it much at all a real pest.
Reminds me of strings of holiday lights for any holiday that claim bulbs last 100,000 hours but the wires last one season!

T

Response From Discretesignals

What is an ECC?

Check engine light on? Before you disconnect the battery check for trouble codes. Key on-off-on-off-on. The check engine light will flash any trouble codes stored. They are two digit codes.

Response From Hammer Time

Electronic Computer Command?

1991 dodge dynasty

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on 1991 dodge dynasty

1991 dodge dynasty(k car) has 3.2lt. had someone short computer and computer was replaced and now won't idle when cold and when hot stall on exceleration or decelleration. i have no idia what is causing this and hoping someone can point the direction. ran exalent before was shorted to computer. now new computer and runs realy rough.

Response From Hammer Time

Did you instal a "new" computer or a used computer?
Is the check engine light coming on at all?
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Response From Guest

Yes, I installed a used computer on my 1992 dodge
I believe the the check engine light is on. Thanks for coming back to me on this problem.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

There is no way of knowing if you even have the right computer installed. If the check engine light is on, then the best place to start is reading the stored codes.

Diagnostic Trouble Codes - 1991
Chrysler

11
Engine has not been cranked since battery was disconnected.
12
Memory Standby power lost.
13
MAP sensor pneumatic circuit.
14
MAP sensor electrical circuit.
15
Vehicle speed/distance sensor.
16
Loss of battery voltage sense.
17
Engine running too cool.
21
Oxygen sensor circuit.
22 Coolant temperature sensor circuit.
23
Throttle body temperature sensor circuit.
24
Throttle position sensor.
25
AIS motor driven circuit.
26
Peak injector current not reached.
27
Fault in injector driver interface circuit.
31
Purge solenoid circuit.
32
On Calif. models, EGR diagnosis.
33
A/C cutout relay circuit.
34
Speed control solenoid driver circuit.
35 Fan control relay circuit.
37
Fault in part throttle unlock solenoid driver circuit.
41
Charging system excess or no field circuit.
42
ASD relay circuit.
43 Fault in ignition coil control circuit.
44
Loss of FJ2 to logic board.
46 Battery voltage too high.
47 Battery voltage too low.
51 Oxygen feedback system stuck at lean position.
52
Oxygen feedback system stuck at rich position.
53
Internal logic module problems.
54
Indicates a fault in the distributor high data rate pickup circuit.
55
Completion of fault code display.
62
Indicates unsuccessful attempt to update EMR mileage.
63
Unsuccessful attempt to write to an EEPROM location by the controller.
77
Speed control power relay circuit.


To call up codes, cycle ignition switch on, off, on, off and on within 5 seconds. Stored codes will be indicated by flashes of the power loss/check engine lamp. The codes will be indicated as two digit numbers, with a four second pause between codes. An example of a code is as follows:

  • Power Loss/Check Engine Lamp illuminated for approximately 2 to 3 seconds as a bulb check, then turns off.
  • Lamp flashes 2 times, pauses, then flashes 6 times.
  • Lamp pauses for approximately 4 seconds.
  • Lamp flashes 3 times, pauses, then flashes 1 time.

  • This would indicate that code 26 and 31 are stored. The lamp will continue to flash until all stored codes have been displayed.
    Once the lamp starts flashing the stored fault codes, it cannot be stopped. If a code is missed, the entire procedure must be repeated. The lamp will not indicate if oxygen feedback system is switching lean-rich or if idle motor system is operational. The lamp also cannot be used to perform actuation test mode, sensor test mode or engine running test mode.
    After all fault codes have been displayed, then power loss/check engine lamp can be used to verify switch function. The lamp will turn on and off as the switch is turned on and off.