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Best Selling Genuine Buick Throttle Position Sensors

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Delphi, Standard Ignition, True Tech, Vemo, Dorman, ACDelco, Hitachi
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Buick Replacement Throttle Position Sensor Parts

We stock Throttle Position Sensor parts for most Buick models, including Century, Electra, LeSabre, Lucerne, Park Avenue, Rainier, Reatta, Regal, Rendezvous, Riviera, Roadmaster, Skyhawk, Skylark, Somerset.

Delphi
1987 Buick Skyhawk Throttle Position Sensor 4 Cyl 2.0L Delphi

P311-211C599    SS10425  New

TH42TH , 17106681 , TH191 , EC1032 , 8-17112-404-0 , 8-17106-681-0 , 8171124040 , 5S5040 , 14072 , FE1032 , 17113070 , 5S5036 , 94580175 , TH42 , FE4004 , TPS30 , 213895 , 20121 , 17112679 , TPS112 , 93740914 , EC3310 , 21955 , TPS127 , TPS73 , TPS139 , 14062 , 229920 , TH42T , EC3004 , 213910 , 17112404 , 8171066810 , 141-443 , 329920 , 977-511 , 141443 , 5S5041 , EC3310P , 200-1047 , 200-1046 , 158-0516

Qty:
$36.69
Delphi Throttle Position Sensor
  • Throttle Position Sensor
  • Designed digital output for maximum signal to noise ratio. Not impacted by temperature changes and provide robust, long-lasting sensor protection. Manufactured to meet or exceed OE requirements.
Brand: Delphi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN Block Engine CID CC
1987 - Buick Skyhawk 1 L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 -
Delphi
1994 Buick Skylark Throttle Position Sensor 4 Cyl 2.3L Delphi

P311-53D2E6B    SS10459  New

141439 , TPS60 , 319072 , 8170876550 , EC1044 , FE1044 , FE4012 , TH27 , 213894 , 141-439 , 219072 , 5S5008 , EC3012P , 8-17083-333-0 , 17087655 , 8-17106-680-0 , 7793544 , TH51 , 14060 , TPS121 , 17106680 , 8171066800 , TH51T , FE1009 , 8170833330 , EC1009 , 8-17087-655-0 , FE-1009 , 158-0617 , 200-1077 , 779-3544 , EC3012

Qty:
$37.61
Delphi Throttle Position Sensor
  • Throttle Position Sensor
  • Designed digital output for maximum signal to noise ratio. Not impacted by temperature changes and provide robust, long-lasting sensor protection. Manufactured to meet or exceed OE requirements.
Brand: Delphi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1994 - Buick Skylark L 4 Cyl 2.3L 138 -
Delphi
2005 Buick Rendezvous Throttle Position Sensor 6 Cyl 3.4L Delphi

P311-1D36E22    SS10382  New

977-030 , 17123852 , 219187 , EC3048 , 8171135780 , FE4048 , 141-457 , 17113578 , 8171238520 , 8-17113-578-0 , TH149 , 141467 , TPS161 , 8-17123-852-0 , 17106809 , 14130 , 5S5064 , 5S5049 , 200-1053 , TH149T , TPS140 , 319187 , EC3048P , 213912 , 260022 , 158-1365 , 141457 , 141-467

Qty:
$41.21
Delphi Throttle Position Sensor
  • Throttle Position Sensor
  • Designed digital output for maximum signal to noise ratio. Not impacted by temperature changes and provide robust, long-lasting sensor protection. Manufactured to meet or exceed OE requirements.
Brand: Delphi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Buick Rendezvous V 6 Cyl 3.4L 207 -
Delphi
1993 Buick Skylark Throttle Position Sensor 6 Cyl 3.3L Delphi

P311-21465DA    SS10313  New

14073 , 200-1048 , TH113 , 319185 , 24502965 , 3520 , FE4046 , 141448 , 5S5050 , EC3046P , 219185 , EC3046 , 213915 , TPS135 , 141-448

Qty:
$65.23
Delphi Throttle Position Sensor
  • Throttle Position Sensor
  • Designed digital output for maximum signal to noise ratio. Not impacted by temperature changes and provide robust, long-lasting sensor protection. Manufactured to meet or exceed OE requirements.
Brand: Delphi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Engine VIN Block Engine CID CC
1993 - Buick Skylark Custom N V 6 Cyl 3.3L 204 -
Delphi
2005 Buick LeSabre Throttle Position Sensor Delphi

P311-0CB9782    SS10509  New

319184 , 3521 , TH159T , 219184 , 213916 , 24504798 , 14093 , 200-1083 , 141-461 , FE4045 , EC3045 , 141461 , TPS144 , 5S5052 , TH159

Qty:
$60.47
Delphi Throttle Position Sensor
  • Throttle Position Sensor
  • Designed digital output for maximum signal to noise ratio. Not impacted by temperature changes and provide robust, long-lasting sensor protection. Manufactured to meet or exceed OE requirements.
Brand: Delphi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2005 - Buick LeSabre Custom
Delphi
1997 Buick Skylark Throttle Position Sensor 4 Cyl 2.4L Delphi

P311-17C9DCB    SS10465  New

8-17125-483-0 , 141458 , 17125483 , 141-458 , 141-459 , TH153 , EC3048P , 141459 , EC3048 , TPS142 , TH149T , 213914 , 5S5042 , TPS140 , 200-1053 , 14095 , 8171254830 , TH149 , 319187 , EC3183 , 17123855 , 216650 , 219187 , EC3047 , FE4047

Qty:
$37.29
Delphi Throttle Position Sensor
  • Throttle Position Sensor
  • Designed digital output for maximum signal to noise ratio. Not impacted by temperature changes and provide robust, long-lasting sensor protection. Manufactured to meet or exceed OE requirements.
Brand: Delphi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1997 - Buick Skylark L 4 Cyl 2.4L 146 2392
Standard Ignition
2005 Buick Rendezvous Throttle Position Sensor 6 Cyl 3.4L Standard Ignition

P311-3C8B26C    TH149  New

TPS142 , TPS140VC , 601-52211 , 38131 , SS10467 , 14130 , 141-457 , 5S5042 , 213-914 , SS10382-11B1 , 141-471 , 71-7544 , TPS140 , 141-458 , 71-7537 , 71-7560 , 71-7559 , 17125483 , 14095 , 200-91053 , 17106809 , 38135 , 5S5049 , 853678T , SS10382 , 213-1653 , TPS161 , 213-2718 , 71-7550 , 8-17125-483-0 , 977-030 , 17113578 , EC3048 , MC1415 , 213-912 , 17113625 , 5S5064 , TPS162 , 213-913 , 141-459 , SS10465 , 3857487-7 , 17123855 , 88893282 , 6J7 , 88864359 , V51-72-0077 , 7270 , 213-4668 , 9-33702 , 17123852 , 89054614 , 8-17123-852-0 , 2-99037 , SS10463 , 2-99040 , SS10532 , 3857487

Qty:
$41.07
Standard Ignition Throttle Position Sensor
  • Throttle Position Sensor
  • Product Attributes:
    • Connector Gender: Female
    • Connector Type: Plug In
    • Terminal Gender: Male
    • Terminal Quantity: 3
    • Terminal Type: Blade Terminals
  • Our Throttle Position sensors are made by implementing a proprietary sliding contact technology, based on multiple precious metal contacts riding on polymer thick film resisters to offer a longer working life than competitor sensors on the market today. Each of our sensors is provided with integral rotor bearings and return springs which allow for easy installation when compared to the spring-less designs currently available in the aftermarket, which rely on worn throttle body bearings and return springs to set the correct output voltage. Our sensors maintain specific installed outputs to match the OE rather than using adjustable, consolidated designs. Engine management systems require reliable connections in order for sensors to reach the optimum performance level. We manufacture our sensors to ensure that both external and internal connections remain reliable in order to maintain these requirements through the product life. Each sensor that we offer endures rigorous end of line testing which involves many thousands of data points to validate output voltages and to ensure that each part meets linearity specifications that are expected by the engine management system in your vehicle.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Buick Rendezvous V 6 Cyl 3.4L 207 -
Standard Ignition
1991 Buick Commercial Chassis Throttle Position Sensor Standard Ignition

P311-5899F17    TH42  New

9-33701 , TPS4213 , 93740916 , SS10425 , SS10425-11B1 , 805226A1 , 18-7630 , 71-7531 , 71-7934 , 601-0511 , 5J7 , 8-17106-681-0 , 141-443 , 3855184-2 , 158-1389 , 141-444 , 7266 , 38011 , TPS112 , 17106681 , 17112404 , TPS129 , 5S7657 , 3855184 , 93740914 , EC3310 , 17111815 , 5S5040 , 17112679 , 14062 , 17112688 , 5S5036 , 2-9960 , 977-511 , 158-0516 , 17087653 , 14072 , TPS112VC , 200-91047 , 213-895 , 17113070 , TPS139 , 71-7535 , 213-910

Qty:
$38.27
Standard Ignition Throttle Position Sensor
  • Throttle Position Sensor
  • Product Attributes:
    • Connector Gender: Female
    • Terminal Gender: Male
    • Terminal Quantity: 3
  • Our Throttle Position Sensors maintain specific installed outputs to match OE rather than adjustable consolidated designs. Circuits are printed on flexible polyimide film or ceramic-based substrates for excellent dimensional stability preventing electrical performance drift. Noble palladium/gold/platinum alloys provide low contact resistance for extended service life. Each TPS uses integral rotor bearings and return springs for easy installation. Each sensor undergoes rigorous end-of-line testing with thousands of data points to validate output voltages for optimum performance and trouble-free operation. Featuring the broadest sensor coverage in the market, we meet the service professionals needs with the highest quality product every time he opens the box. As a global manufacturer of emission components, complete quality control is maintained through the manufacturing process from componentry to finished product.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1991 - Buick Commercial Chassis
Standard Ignition
1995 Buick Commercial Chassis Throttle Position Sensor Standard Ignition

P311-2941401    TH51  New

141-439 , 977-513 , 71-7500 , 17106680 , 2-9959 , EC3012 , 17087655 , 213-894 , 8-17106-680-0 , SS10459 , 8-17087-655-0 , 5S5008 , TPS121VC , 8-17083-333-0 , 158-0617 , 8-17087655-0 , 601-0513 , 6J3 , 17112714 , 200-91077 , V40-72-0319 , 38020 , 17083333 , TPS121 , 14060

Qty:
$39.21
Standard Ignition Throttle Position Sensor
  • Throttle Position Sensor
  • Product Attributes:
    • Connector Gender: Female
    • Terminal Gender: Male
    • Terminal Quantity: 3
  • Our Throttle Position Sensors maintain specific installed outputs to match OE rather than adjustable consolidated designs. Circuits are printed on flexible polyimide film or ceramic-based substrates for excellent dimensional stability preventing electrical performance drift. Noble palladium/gold/platinum alloys provide low contact resistance for extended service life. Each TPS uses integral rotor bearings and return springs for easy installation. Each sensor undergoes rigorous end-of-line testing with thousands of data points to validate output voltages for optimum performance and trouble-free operation. Featuring the broadest sensor coverage in the market, we meet the service professionals needs with the highest quality product every time he opens the box. As a global manufacturer of emission components, complete quality control is maintained through the manufacturing process from componentry to finished product.
Brand: Standard Ignition
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Buick Commercial Chassis
True Tech
1998 Buick Century Throttle Position Sensor 6 Cyl 3.1L True Tech

P311-0F33F70    TH149T  New

88864359 , 38131 , 17106809 , 213-2718 , 71-7537 , SS10467 , 213-4668 , TPS162 , 17123852 , 71-7550 , 17123855 , 5S5049 , 2-99037 , TPS161 , 88893282 , 71-7559 , 213-913 , 601-52211 , 17113625 , SS10382 , 71-7544 , 6J7 , 977-030 , 213-912 , TPS140VC , 141-459 , 213-1653 , V51-72-0077 , 200-91053 , 17125483 , SS10532 , 141-458 , 141-457 , 5S5064 , 141-471 , 9-33702 , 38135 , 5S5042 , SS10382-11B1 , SS10465 , 213-914 , 14095 , TPS140 , 17113578 , 7270 , 14130 , TPS142 , 2-99040 , 71-7560 , SS10463 , 89054614

Qty:
$34.26
True Tech Throttle Position Sensor
  • Throttle Position Sensor
  • Product Attributes:
    • Connector Gender: Female
    • Connector Type: Plug In
    • Terminal Gender: Male
    • Terminal Quantity: 3
    • Terminal Type: Blade Terminals
  • Made from quality components for dependability.
Brand: True Tech
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Delivery Type Fuel Delivery SubType Block Engine CID CC
1998 - Buick Century FI MFI V 6 Cyl 3.1L 189 -
True Tech
1993 Buick Commercial Chassis Throttle Position Sensor True Tech

P311-429FEE4    TH42T  New

5J7 , 141-443 , 18-7630 , 17106681 , 158-0516 , TPS139 , 17111815 , 141-444 , TPS4213 , 213-895 , TPS112 , 71-7531 , 5S5040 , 5S5036 , 977-511 , 17113070 , 71-7535 , 601-0511 , 14062 , 213-910 , 38011 , 17087653 , 2-9960 , 17112679 , 7266 , 5S7657 , 71-7934 , TPS129 , SS10425-11B1 , 158-1389 , TPS112VC , SS10425 , 200-91047 , 9-33701 , 14072

Qty:
$29.74
True Tech Throttle Position Sensor
  • Throttle Position Sensor
  • Product Attributes:
    • Connector Gender: Female
    • Connector Type: Plug In
    • Terminal Gender: Male
    • Terminal Quantity: 3
    • Terminal Type: Blade Terminals
  • Made from quality components for dependability.
Brand: True Tech
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Buick Commercial Chassis
True Tech
1992 Buick Park Avenue Throttle Position Sensor 6 Cyl 3.8L True Tech

P311-5615F63    TH50T  New

SS10431 , 2-99060 , 5S5051 , 25532800 , 141-446 , 200-1050 , 25535420 , 71-7546 , 6J2 , 213-919 , 38018 , 14064 , TPS119

Qty:
$43.86
True Tech Throttle Position Sensor
  • Throttle Position Sensor
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color: Black
    • Connector Gender: Male
    • Connector Shape: Rectangular
    • Connector Type: Plug In
    • Gaskets Included: No
    • Screws included: No
    • Terminal Gender: Female
    • Terminal Quantity: 3
    • Terminal Type: Bullet
  • Made from quality components for dependability.
Brand: True Tech
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Delivery Type Fuel Delivery SubType Block Engine CID CC
1992 - Buick Park Avenue FI MFI V 6 Cyl 3.8L 231 3800
True Tech
1989 Buick Regal Throttle Position Sensor 6 Cyl 3.1L True Tech

P311-1C2EDFA    TH51T  New

V40-72-0319 , 17106680 , 38020 , 17087655 , 141-439 , TPS121 , 200-91077 , 601-0513 , 6J3 , 213-894 , 17083333 , 5S5008 , SS10459 , 158-0617 , 71-7500 , 2-9959 , 14060 , 17112714 , 977-513 , TPS121VC

Qty:
$24.88
True Tech Throttle Position Sensor
  • Throttle Position Sensor
  • Product Attributes:
    • Connector Gender: Female
    • Connector Type: Plug In
    • Terminal Gender: Male
    • Terminal Quantity: 3
    • Terminal Type: Blade Terminals
  • Made from quality components for dependability.
Brand: True Tech
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Block Engine CID CC
1989 - Buick Regal Automatic V 6 Cyl 3.1L 189 -
Delphi
1990 Buick Skylark Throttle Position Sensor 4 Cyl 2.3L Delphi

P311-5D06EA5    W0133-1682594  New

Qty:
$66.43
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Delphi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1990 - Buick Skylark L 4 Cyl 2.3L 138 -
Vemo
1989 Buick Skyhawk Throttle Position Sensor Vemo

P311-5673755    W0133-1682855  New

Qty:
$20.93
Brand: Vemo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1989 - Buick Skyhawk
Dorman
1989 Buick Skyhawk Throttle Position Sensor Dorman

P311-32170BD    W0133-1682855  New

Qty:
$55.83
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1989 - Buick Skyhawk
Vemo
1987 Buick Somerset Throttle Position Sensor 4 Cyl 2.5L Vemo

P311-21BDDF7    W0133-1682458  New

Qty:
$48.70
Brand: Vemo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1987 - Buick Somerset L 4 Cyl 2.5L 151 2474
Delphi
2005 Buick Rendezvous Throttle Position Sensor 6 Cyl 3.4L Delphi

P311-4753C02    W0133-1681893  New

Qty:
$25.78
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Delphi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Buick Rendezvous V 6 Cyl 3.4L 207 -
ACDelco
2005 Buick Rendezvous Throttle Position Sensor 6 Cyl 3.4L ACDelco

P311-0D66D23    W0133-1681893  New

Qty:
$79.60
ACDelco Throttle Position Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Buick Rendezvous V 6 Cyl 3.4L 207 -
Hitachi
1995 Buick Park Avenue Throttle Position Sensor Hitachi

P311-38062DE    W0133-1683263  New

Qty:
$23.37
Hitachi Throttle Position Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Hitachi
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration
1995 - Buick Park Avenue Naturally Aspirated

Latest Buick Repair and Throttle Position Sensor Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

engine problems

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From wolfpack on engine problems

i started my 95 buick park ave 3800 series II and its reving up and down i tapped the throttle position sensor and the motor runs smooth do i need a scan tool to change it or can i just swap it out also i have a slight ticking noise coming from the engine compartment i used the old wooden rod trick and the motor is fine no noise any info would be appreciated thank u

Response From Hammer Time

No, you don't need a scan tool to change it although you would need one to clear the code from memory after but AutoZone will do that for free.

Response From wolfpack Top Rated Answer

thanks H T the problem with autozone is they dont have the right scan tool i have the goofy transition year on computer i have the obd II connecter with the obd I computer its not throwing any codes that surprised me thanks again

Response From Hammer Time

Oh yes, 95.
You should be able to just disconnect the battery on that one.

89 Buick Skarlark idle issue

Showing 4 out of 14 Posts | Show 10 Hidden Posts
Question From KrAzY on 89 Buick Skarlark idle issue

Car Specs:

Make/Model: 1989 Buick Skylark custom
Engine 3.3L V6
Mileage: 148k


Problem:

Hello, I am having a problem with the idle on my 1989 Buick Skylark it started this winter when randomly apon starting it up cold it would rev very high rpm's and not drop back down and accasionally the check engine soon light would come on then after ya took off with it about a mile or so down the road the light would go off and when i came to a stop at a destination with the car the idle would be back to normal,And when restarting the car the idle would be normal as well and i just blew it off thinking something was froze/stuck from the extreme cold as it only did it randomly in the cold weather after it had sat a while.

Then it became more frequent to where i never knew if when i started it up if it was going to rev high or idle normal it was a hit and miss kinda thing.

Now it is getting warmer out and the problem has gotten permenant now everytime i start the car it idles way higher then it should in park and in Drive and it wants to jump to take off because the idle is too high, And the check engine light is on almost all the time now but randomly shuts off.

I am wondering if there is a idle control unit or something on this make of car that has gone bad finally causing the check engine light to come on and not drop my rpms down on my idle ?? I would take it in to a garage but for this many miles on the car and the year of the car i don't want to put in alot of $$ in labor for a car that probably blue book now is only worth $500 despite it's good condition.

Other then this problem the car has run and drove great other then a slight miss accasionally when idling at normal rpm's...Doesn't use/leak a drop of oil or anything else..So i am hoping it is just a idle sensor or idle control unit ect that can easily be replaced and fix my problem..But then again i never was one to get lucky on a easy fix : /

Any help would be greatly appreciated and i thx you for your time.

Response From dave284

Theres a couple of things that came to mind.....cold start valve/idle air control valve/ect...but the only positive way to be sure is to have the computer codes retrieved and read

Response From KrAzY


Theres a couple of things that came to mind.....cold start valve/idle air control valve/ect...but the only positive way to be sure is to have the computer codes retrieved and read

I was affaid of that And now it is not idling correctly even when it is warmed up and been drivin the idle isn't quite as high after it has been drivin and put in park but still well over what it should be.

Also new symptom has joined in the mix..When it is started cold and drivin..when you hit accelerator it tries to cut out and die then takes off..and i can release pedal and press it slightly again and everytime accelerator is pressed down it momentarily tries to cut out and die then accelerates.

I guess I am going to have to take it in and have it put on a computer like you stated i guess.

Response From dave284

With all those problems you describe....thats what (I) would do, let us know what the codes are when you get them,

Response From KrAzY

Well i finally got someone with a snap-On scanner to hook up to my buick and he said all the new code readers don't have adapters to fit on older cars?? So this tool was the best he could do.I dunno if these will help as all other codes i have seen peoplehere post are 3 digit codes not 2 so i dunno if this is right or not or if i need to have someone use a different reader ?? This was done with engine off key on with scanner reading codes saved in cpu.

The following codes were saved in the computer :

1) code #28 3rd gear circuit

2) code #27 2nd gear circuit

3) code # 26 Quad Driver Module

3) code #22 Throttle position too low

4) code #48 Misfire fuel ignition problem

Now the first 2 i am aware of why those codes are thrown because the transmission was stalling coming out of overdrive like a manual clutch when you just try and stop without putting in the clutch, And i was told to quick fix this problem without haveing trasnmission rebuilt was just to unplug the sensor from the transmission and it would shift fine only i wouldn't have the last 2 gears.I am told this happened alot in this type of car and there was no fix for it other then a new transmission to fix the electronic overdrive..I dunno if ther is anyother way to fix this or not : /

As for the other codes i have no idea what they mean especially my 3rd code #22 the car revs high rmps and cuts out when pressing gas pedal slightly so how can it have a throttle position too low ?? Enless the Throttle Position Sensor is bad and the computer is trying to make up for it by reving engine ??

Anyway i hope someone can make heads or tails of this...The codes don't really tell me anything other then there is some problems but it isn't specific in telling me what the problem or parts needing fixed are.

Response From dave284

The code 22 tps sensor low, means that the sensor itself is bad/ or is not adjusted properly, or the wiring to it is bad., and that can cause a misfire code to come up.

Response From KrAzY


The code 22 tps sensor low, means that the sensor itself is bad/ or is not adjusted properly, or the wiring to it is bad., and that can cause a misfire code to come up.
I hope it is that throttle sensor because it isn't too costly if it is the Ignition Air Flow Meter / Mass Air Sensor that is bad that goes anywhere from $209-$350 dollars to replace..I guess i should try the cheaper of the 2 sensors and will try to replace the throttle sensor first..I'll check back and let ya know how it goes ty dave.

Response From dave284

Most of my customers don't mind salvage parts, I've got a U-PULL salvage yard 20 miles from me and sensors like that are $15.00 and if it doesn't work they'll take it back and refund the money,maybe there might be one in your area.

Response From KrAzY Top Rated Answer


Most of my customers don't mind salvage parts, I've got a U-PULL salvage yard 20 miles from me and sensors like that are $15.00 and if it doesn't work they'll take it back and refund the money,maybe there might be one in your area.

well i i have tried 2 things now and the problem is now worse off then when i started I* was told the Throttle Position Sensor was only for driving speeds not idle problems...Is this correct ???

and that if my problem was high rev idle in park not moving it was due to the idle air control valve..So i tried the 2 things recommended.

1) I was told "sometimes" because of the carbon buildup it sticks and you can just clean the valve with some throttlebody/injector cleaner rather then replacing the thing, so i tried that first and used a old toothbrush and cleaned it as good as i could ( it was carboned up quite a bit ) and let it dry for a few days..Then put it back in and hooked up the wiring to it then when i tried to start the car it just cranked over and sometimes sputtered but would NOT start...Now if i pressed down the accelerator it would start and run but as soon as i let off the accelerator the car instantly died so cleaning the part and replacing it seemed to have made the problem worse...So i assumed the valve was probably stuck or bad and cleanign it only made it stick worse...So i went on to step 2.


2) I went to a scrap yard and found a few of the same idle air valves and decided my best bet was the one on the car with the least miles on it alot of them had over 200k miles but the one decided to buy and try the vehicle only had 102k miles on it.So i put it in and rehooked up the wire plug and proceeded to start the vehicle again and same problem it just sputtered and would not start/idle and if i press down the accelerator again like before it will start and run at high rpms but as soon as i let off the accelerator it will instantly die again.


So safe to say i am kind of frustrated right now because before i even messed with it the car run/start fine it just had a tendency to idle high and throw a check engine soon light but was still drivable..Now i have made the problem worse somehow by trying to replace this idle valve the car won't even run or idle at all now.Only way to even start it pressing down the accelerator and keeping it pressed to keep the car even running.

I dunno if the used part was also bad or what but the problem now is worse then before i messed with the idle valve.

And a new one is about $72 bucks and i dunno if i want to pay that and still not know if it will fix the problem or not..And everyone i have asked says there is NO way to test them to see if it's working properly.

Also is there a relearn proceedure that needs to be done after replacing a idle control valve ??

Response From dave284

http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152800bcb90 here are some ways to test the IAC,I'm sorry youre having trouble, but have patience,we all go thru the same thing on one or another on these vehicles.

Response From KrAzY

Ty dave!!, I got it up and running again now i guess the ecm/pcm just had to relearn/reset the IAC i started it up and it would die..So i followed the prodecure and run it at aprox 2k rpm ( just guessed as i don't have a tacometer ) for 7 minutes then let off the accelerator and the car dropped down to a idle..Then when i tried to drive it..it would die after accelerating down the road for a bit then stopping..In which case i think it ALSO had to relearn the idle speed when in gear because i drove the car aprox 5-7 miles accasionally stopping and starting and now it idles nice and smooth in park and or in drive/reverse as well..It does however idle a bit lower then it did before but i'm not going to take out the IAC again and adjust the pintle to raise the idle i'm just happy the car runs correctly now again and it is driveable :) Also the check engine soon light has shut off now.


Again thx for all the help it is greatly appreciated..I'm just glad there is places like this with people willing to help others that can't really offord taking there vehicles to a repair shop.

Response From KrAzY

I spoke too soon, after driving it around town and stuff for a while today running erands the check engine soon light has come back on every now and then and shuts back off again *sigh* Do i need to disconnect the battery and dump the old codes from the ECM to reset the check engine soon light ?? Or is the CES light coming back on and off because there is still a problem ??

Response From dave284

I know its aggravating, cause I still run into these problems myself. The ecm plays a big part of the engine's performance,and I can say these computers will throw you off......my advice would have the codes read again, cause there is chance another problem could have occurred....and if the same codes came back I would be thinking of replacing the ecm.....salvage part.

Response From KrAzY

Ok this is getting really spendy and agrivating I have replaced the IAC valve/sensor and the Throttle position sensor and none of the codes have changed still getting code 22,26,27,28,48 after dumping ecm memory and rechecking codes after running engine.

But 22 should have been fixed when i replaced the IAC and TPS but engine still idles high alot of the time then other times it drops to idle it should be at,And when i'm driving the car and accelerating at a constant speed above 35mph or so the check engine light goes off..Then when i let the gas off and slow down to come to a stop it comes back on.
48 is usually the map/maf sensor bad BUT sometimes a bad throttle control sensor will throw this code also along with the 22 won't it ??

My question now is after i allready replaced the IAC and the Throttle position sensor why am i still getting code 22 ?? And if the 48 is indeed a bad mass air flow sensor would that also throw the 22 ??

Or god forbid is is possible that the brand new throttle position sensor i put in is no good in the first place and still throwin 22 ?? I'm running out of ideas and patience on what else to do to fix this problem.

Only other thing that comes to mind is that perhaps none of the codes changed after replaced the sensors is because the ecm itself is bad ???

94 Buick won't come out of high idle after warmed up

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From ToP-fan on 94 Buick won't come out of high idle after warmed up

I have a 94 Buick Century, 3.1 ltr engine with roughly 128,000 mi.........In the past few months, once the car has warmed up, it has a tendency to stay in a fast idle.
I took it to my mechanic and he ran diagnostics and couldn't find anything...........He said to bring it in when it was doing it and could get a better read on it.
One day it was doing it and I was in his neck of the woods,.....so I drove it in...............Right away he said it was the IAC motor and that was replaced.

The next couple of days I didn't drive it enough for it to really warm up, so it was fine........After my first highway drive a couple of days later when I got to regular low rpm driving it did it again..............Called the mechanic up and stated it was still doing it again he said to bring it in for an adjustment....(no charge).
It was ok for a couple of days and now it's doing it again.
Things I've noticed:

1. It only does this after it's been running 15 minutes
or so.

2. If I'm at a red light and it's doing it, I'll turn off the ignition and start it back up and it will idle down....but only for a few minutes.

3. The common denominator seems to be the degree that it's warmed up...............If I'm on my way to a store and I'm there say an hour, it will stay at normal idle for awhile, but if I have to go anywhere with a signifigant distance, it will stay ramped up until it's cooled down.

Any imput would be great!
Thanks,

ToP-fan

Response From ToP-fan

Thanks guys,
I'll be back to the garage this week with your recommendations..........I'll keep you posted.
ToP-fan

Response From ToP-fan

Follow up: I brought the car back to my mechanic last week along with your recommendations. He checked it out and said the IAC motor was defective and replaced it.............Well, it's a little better,.......BUT, after highway driving it still has a fast rpm.............At a stop sign or red light, I shut it off and start it right back up and the idle comes right down.............Then it'll be ok as long as I'm city driving.
I'm at wits end with this and going to take it to another mechanic.

Response From brager Top Rated Answer

Ask your technition if he cleaned out the IAC passages? also did he test the throttle position sensore?
and what about the throttle plate is it closing completely? i would also check the linkages for any binding and
any kinks in the acc cable

Response From steve01832

The first thing to do is make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks. These engines are famous for intakes leaking. Another thing to check would be the throttle plate stop screw. It looks like an idle speed adjuster and many people drill out the cap and use it as such. Make sure it is not holding the throttle open, if it is, you can adjust it down. This is where you may want to start looking.

Steve

My Buick is acting up

Showing 2 out of 23 Posts | Show 21 Hidden Posts
Question From jackx on My Buick is acting up

I got a 1999 Lesabre. It has been throwing a P0135 trouble code. I looked it up and that's a
upstream O2 sensor code. I cleared the codes and ordered a new O2 sensor.

Now its runs fine but every so often it will die. It always starts right up when I hit the ignition.
It died twice today when I was slowing down at a stop light. Then it died as it was just coasting
along at about 30 mph.

Its not throwing a code and its got 1/2 tank of gas. I guess it could be the fuel pump not putting
out enough pressure. I'm not sure how to determine what the pressure is when it is acting up. I hate
to just drive it till it is obvious it does not have enough fuel pressure by waiting until it won't start.
It primes with my fuel pressure showing 45 pounds of pressure and after it starts my guage shows
41 or 42 pounds of pressures. When you give it gas the pressure will go back up to about 45 pounds.

I looked up what the pressure has to be in order to start the motor. I found it won't start unless it has
48 pounds of pressure. Since my car starts ok it must be getting 48 pounds of pressure and I guess
my guage is 3 pounds off. So, since is starts I guess the fuel pressure may be ok.

I guess it could be the crankshaft position sensor. Maybe its needs to be cleaned or replaced. It's not
throwing a code.

I guess it could be a ignition problem but I don't know what could be the problem since its not
throwing a code.

Any body got any suggestions as to how to determine why its dying.

Response From Hammer Time

This is one of the hardest problems to resolve. What has to be do is you have to hook up diagnostic tools to monitor spark, injector pulse and fuel pressure and you have to be watching them at the exact moment the car dies and determine which one cut out first.


In the meantime I would at least clean the throttle body.

. Remove the intake snorkel, have someone hold the throttle wide open for you and scrub the back side of the throttle plate and surrounding bore with an old tooth brush and some carb cleaner. Be sure to spray some into the small holes next to the throttle plate.

Response From jackx

Yeah if that is what you have to do then I am in trouble.Unfortunately it only stalls now when you are
rolling down the road.

I will clean the throttle body and see if it stops stalling.

Its got the same fuel pump and crank shaft position sensor it had when I bought it. That was
5 years ago and it only had 63,000 miles on it then. Since it has 109,000 miles on it now and those
parts were probably the same ones that came on it from the factory I may have to replace
them unless the problem becomes not a intermittent problem. At least that gives me an idea of
how much this could cost to fix if I can identify the problem and these components need to be
replace. Probably a $200 problem.

I'll just drive it and maybe store the local tow truck number in my cell phone....At least it starts
when it dies.....

I may take it to a shop after I drive it a few more days. A shop can probably can give me an idea
on what they find is usually the problem and I will take it from there. Unfortunately they may just
have to start replacing parts. I hate it when they want to do that.

All I know is you basically need 3 things to get a motor to run.
fuel
spark
compression

If its the pump then its "fuel'
and if its the crank shaft position sensor its "spark"

Response From Hammer Time

No, a Crank sensor will take out spark and fuel.

I might gamble on changing a Crank sensor but i doubt the fuel pump is the issue here. It could even be a computer or maybe cleaning the throttle bold will resolve it.

Response From jackx

Thanks for the help.

Been checking and it only takes 45 pounds of pressure to start a lesabre.
So, my gauge is probably giving me the right number and the pump is probably not the problem.

If cleaning the throttle body with some carb cleaner does not solve the problem then I am thinking
I will pull the connector off the crank shaft position sensor and see if it needs some electrical
cleaner.

Response From Discretesignals

They can start on 14 lbs of fuel pressure, but they'll bog out when you rev em. This doesn't have poppet valves that require a certain amount of pressure to open them.

Like HT stated, accurately diagnosing an intermittent stall and restart issue is very difficult. Sure you can get lucky changing parts out, but how much you will to spend on guesses and what happens if it is a circuit issue?

Someone is going to have to monitor systems to see what fails when the glitch occurs. Even professionals with years of drive-ability experience can find those challenging.

Response From jackx

I pulled the snorkel off the 3.8 motor. I also pulled the MAF sensor out of the housing that the
snorkel mounts on. There is a screen over the snorkel opening and you can't actually see the butterfly
valve. I squirted Berryman B12 through the Screen and moved the throttle linkage so the
Berryman should have squirted on both the top and bottom sides of the Butterfly. I also squirted
some Berryman down the hole I pulled the MAF sensor out of. I was careful not to get any
Berryman on the MAF sensor and I cleaned it good with CRC MAF cleaner. Then I started the
motor. I had to push the pedal to the floor because it was flooded. It started. I then pulled the
vacuum hose off the brake booster, turned the linkage to rev it up and I poured 1/2 a can of Seafoam
slowly through the vacuum hose. I poured the remaining Seafoam in the tank.

I drove it around the block a few time and the throttle seemed more responsive and it did not
stall. This is good because earlier when I went to autozone to get the Berryman and Seafoam it
stalled on the way home at a stop sign. I guess after I drive it a few days I will know if it is
good to go. I will update you then. I will keep my fingers crossed. If it doesn't fix it I will take the
housing off so I can actually see the butterfly and again try to clean it with the Berryman. Hopefully
I cleaned it enough that it won't stick again.

Thanks for you help.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Agree with the guys this type thing is a pest on techs and people. Great - runs new then nothing for no reason then runs new again and everything checks out - arrr!


Done with this game mostly but not that long ago same bull same basic set up you have for a Winter beater car pulled that. OK, ready now with fuel pressure gauge on it and spark presence thing inline plus a momentary push button (think they still sell those) to trigger starter with key left on such that in that case you see what's missing IF IT DOESN'T START RIGHT UP!


No fuel and now spark like you. No codes to help on that one either. I think it was a crank sensor and still wouldn't know like you for sure without a period of time of it not happening or toss any possible thing that could do that.


Too late as car was free and worth as much as scrap as playing with it so to the bone yard it went and regret it now as it was a totally legal good running worst looking thing though car to just use up. It's not amusing with those sudden "I'm not running right now no matter how inconvenient it is with no warning" so sit there and I'll think about it to get you home - didn't cut it with me but should have gone for it.


I/we hate the parts toss game but if car is nice enough count that expense vs the royally annoying surprise strandings!


T

Response From jackx

Drove it and it died about 3 times and as I rolled up the drive and it died again ......

I started it and blipped the throttle. I noticed it would only rev up so much and then it would start
to heave and surge. Tried it again and the same thing.

I went ahead and pulled the housing off the snorkel buckles up to so I could get to the butterfly
valve. Four bolts and it came off and whow the butterfly and the inside of the housing was coated in
thick black muck.

I got my Berryman B12 and hosed her down. I used the toothbrush just like Hammertime said to do
and finally got it clean. I did clean both sides of the butterfly valve.

I had pulled the MAF out again before I hosed it with B12 and hosed it down with CRC MAF cleaner.

I don't know if its fixed but now no more surging when you blip the throttle.

I got to drive it back the same route as I went this afternoon again tomorrow and I guess I will
see if its fixed or not....Got my fingers crossed.

Thanks for the help.

Response From Discretesignals

Really don't think your out of the woods.

You'll probably need to fix the O2 sensor code. Check the O2 heater resistance. If it is open, replace the sensor. You'll need an accurate sensor to look at O2 voltages and fuel trims when it comes to that time.

Another possibility is the O2 could be sticking rich which causes the engine computer to lean out the fuel. It really easy to see this with a scan tool. On some of the early ones, the programming wasn't smart enough to stop trimming when an O2 sensor was stuck. They would actually lean or rich the engine out so much it would cause stalling, rough running, lack of power, etc. Dodge and GM were really bad about that in the early days when O2 sensors stick.

Response From jackx

Well I agree.

I just went to the store and on the way back it died just going down the street. I put it in
neutral and it started back up and I made it back home.

I know it needs a O2 sensor but I will have to wait until it gets here. It cost half as much as the same
one at Autozone but I won't get it til the 10th.

Can you explain how I can use a volt meter to test the O2 sensor to see if it is bad. It has a square
female connector. It is the upstream sensor. I know there is a signal wire and a ground. I also know
two of the wires are the same color and they go to the heater circuit of the sensor.

I erased the P0135 O2 SES code. I didn't think it would be a problem until it was driven long enough
for the computer to do its diagnosis and then it would throw a code again. Its thrown this code before
and it did not do what it is doing now.

I've considered disconnecting the MAF to see if would run right not using the MAF to regulate the
fuel injectors. I can do this to see if it cures the problem because it will be a while before I get that
new Bosh O2 sensor. I know it will throw a code but I can always erase it.

I've also wondered if the MAP could cause it to die like it is doing. I've got the same one in my pickup that I could
put in the Lesabre to see if it cures the problem. What do you think?

I guess after I eliminate these as possible cures I will end up probably deciding the crank shaft position
sensor is the problem. I will start looking for some utube video on how you remove and replace one of these
sensors. I have been putting that off.

I sure wish they would throw a SES code so I would know what the problem is.

Response From Discretesignals

MAF sensor can cause stalling, hesitation, and loss of power. MAP sensor won't do that.

If the computer is receiving a MAF signal and not coding some type of MAF code, MAP sensor isn't even being used by the engine computer for load calcuations. The MAP is used for BARO readings, to see if EGR is flowing, and as a back up if the MAF goes kuput.

You could unplug the MAF and go into back up mode, to see if your stalling goes away. If your stalling stops, it could be MAF or MAF circuit issues. It will code for a MAF circuit issue when you unplug it.

The O2 sensor wires that are the same color are the heater circuit wires. Just probe those two terminals for those wires in the O2 sensor connector cavity with an ohm meter. If you have an open circuit, O2 heater is shot and needs a sensor.

As your stated the other two wires are signal and sensor ground. You can actually see the O2 sensor voltage back probing the connector on the signal wire. The voltage will swing between 0-1.0 volt when the sensor is operational. It is a lot easier to see this on a scan tool though because you can see how the computer reacts to the voltage the sensor produces.

Response From jackx Top Rated Answer

I unplugged the MAF and it would not idle right and would just barely run.

I plugged it back in and cleared the code.


I thought it would run ok and it doesn't make sense that it would barely idle.

Maybe the sensors that provide it input to know how much fuel and air are

needed are bad but aren't throwing a code. I know the MAP and Throttle Position

sensor are use to make it run if the MAF is disabled. Maybe the MAP sensor is

causing the O2 sensor to throw a code. I also suspect the TPS sensor could cause

it to die too but since it's not throwing a code and isn't a factor when the MAF is

connected it is probably not the problem.

Response From Discretesignals

That is strange. Once it reverts to back up mode, it shouldn't run like dog crap. Your going to need to look at scan data.

TPS usually doesn't cause stalling unless it is shorting the 5 volt ref to ground.

Response From jackx

It was not running and the switch was not on when I disconnected the MAF sensor.

Response From jackx

I may have got some Berryman B12 on the TPS when i was cleaning the throttle body. If I did
that probably caused it to give a bad signal to the ecm. That could make it cause the wild i
dle when I removed the MAP and it could also make it die. I will let it dry tonite. I will check
it again tomorrow to see what happens when I disconnect the MAF again.



If it still idles crazy I may need a new TPS. I found this on a website I googled up for :
" can a tps cause a lesabre to stall"

"ENGINE STALLING

This generally occurs when rapidly decelerating to a standstill, though it can also happen while idling. Again, without accurate information, the computer cannot deduce how much fuel to inject, so it averages the amount used in the last few moments of operation. When the throttle suddenly snaps shut, the engine is starved of air while the injectors are still delivering part-throttle amounts of fuel. The effect is very similar to rapidly closing the choke on an old manual-choke equipped truck."

link deleted ....................... not allowed

A bad TPS would also explain why it won't idle when the MAF is disconnected

I may get one tomorrow.

Response From Discretesignals

This generally occurs when rapidly decelerating to a standstill, though it can also happen while idling. Again, without accurate information, the computer cannot deduce how much fuel to inject, so it averages the amount used in the last few moments of operation. When the throttle suddenly snaps shut, the engine is starved of air while the injectors are still delivering part-throttle amounts of fuel. The effect is very similar to rapidly closing the choke on an old manual-choke equipped truck."

Stalling can occur at any engine speed and any throttle position. That statement is inaccurate. When the throttle is snapped shut the IAC or ETC acts as a dash pot to bring the idle down.

Maybe it is time for a shop that specializes in drive-ability to have a look at it. I don't see any testing going on, only wild guesses and part swapping idea.

Response From jackx

I let it set overnite. I was still was thinking the TPS had B12 on it. I wanted to let it dry out some.

I pulled the MAF connector off. It did not rev up or anything this time. Lots better. It seemed to idle ok but
when you blipped the throttle it acted like it was missing. I turned it off and replaced the
MAF connector and cleared the code. Started it and it sounded great. I did notice that the
MAF and TPS have the screws in them that require a special screwdriver that I don't have. Nuts.....
I used a pair of pliers to take those screws out of the MAF but I can't get the pliers on the
ones on the TPS.

There is another sensor mounted back and under the MAF sensor that does not have those screws.
I pulled it off. It had a plunger on it that was dirty, I cleaned it off with B12 and put it back on. I
suspect it is the Idle control module. Under it is what appears to be the TPS. Since it had those
screws I left it alone.

Later today I will go ahead and rewire the pigtail on the new O2 sensor and put it on. I will
drive it some and see if still dies when I am coasting along or stopping. I do know cleaning that
butterfly really did make it respond a lot better to the throttle but there may be other problems
that also need to be addressed.

I don't have the testing equipment and I think I will take descrete's advice and start looking for a shop that
can fix this thing by performing whatever tests are necessary to determine what is actually
causing the problem. All these parts are expensive and I sure don't want to buy any that don't
actually need to be replaced.

Its always possible that since the TPS seems to be working better this morning
that it may be ok now. It could have been that ecm can't read the MAF sensor sometimes
when I am slowing down and when it reverts to the backup system the bad TPS caused it
to die. Its possible I guess that the TPS could even be causing the problem even if the
MAF sensor system was being used by the ECM. I really don't know what component or components are
bad but I am sure someone out there will be able to figure it out if I can just find them.

Thanks again for you help.

Response From Hammer Time

I think this thread has run it's course as DS pointed out. Advice isn't being followed and no actual testing is being done.

Response From Hammer Time

I think your theory about getting cleaner in the TPS is all wet. There is really no path for that to happen from inside the throttle body.

It's pretty asy to simply test the TPS if you have any doubts. If you have a reader with data you can monitor that or you can just use a DVOM

Response From jackx

Yeah it was all over the place after I started it up.

It revved up and then it idled back down and started to

try to die and then it would rev up again. Weird.....

I have a new O2 sensor that I can put in tomorrow but I

will have to put a square connector on it. I got the

one for a lesabre but it did not fit because during the

year they switched to a square connector. Its been setting

around for a year or so. I'll go to Ace hardware and get some

butt splice connectors and install it tomorrow, Then maybe

I will have a good O2 sensor that may be my whole problem. I

really hate to suffer with this thing til the 10th when the

one I ordered gets delivered.

Response From jackx

Well disconnecting the MAF was a bad idea. It would barely run. I cleared the
code.

I'll wait on the O2 sensor. maybe it will get me around til then.

Response From Discretesignals

Did you unplug the MAF with the engine running? Unplug it with the key off. Then start the engine.

Security issue on 1998 Buick Skylark

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From ESG927 on Security issue on 1998 Buick Skylark

Hi! I hope I can give enough info here that someone can recognize the problem and help solve this problem.

1998 Buick Skylark, 3.3L V6, with somewhere around 236,000 miles on it.

The car sat for several weeks this summer due to some bad brakes that my husband didn't immediately fix. Then the car wouldn't start. Or rather, it'd start, run for a few seconds and die. During a very hot spell, it started and ran so hubby moved it and fixed the brakes. Then it wouldn't start again. He suspected a bad fuel pump....his theory that the temps in the 90s helped build pressure in the fuel tank and that's why it started. The car was pushed back into position and continued to sit for months. Hubby would try to start it at least once a week but with the same start, run for 2 seconds, and die routine.

Recently had the car towed to a garage where our mechanic started looking at it in his spare time. At first, the car's computer would not let the diagnostic machine connect. Then it did or it did after Mechanic got it started with some ether (not sure of how it all went down). Not sure if a code came up, but Mechanic somehow has narrowed it down to a security and/or ignition issue. Back when I was still driving it, I could pull my key out after starting it. Later, hubby's key was the same way. Mechanic replaces one part of ignition and then the whole thing. Mechanic says the fuel pump is fine, adequate pressure.

Car still will not start without ether. But it will start and will run, but cannot be restarted. Mechanic has run through a series of events to supposedly reset the security issue. He says this has worked on other GM cars but it won't on this one.

I believe hubby charged the battery after it sat during the summer. Perhaps this somehow contributed to the problem?

Obviously I don't want to invest a lot of money into this old thing; I gave it up years ago but my construction-worker husband likes it as a work car. Our mechanic only is charging us for 1/2hr labor and the ignition parts so far. Mechanic rides a dirt bike (as do we) and we have a private motocross track. Yeah, it works out well, lol. This is more of a I'm-gonna-figure-this-out-if-it-kills-me type of deal for him, lol. And it's not a high priority -- he and his guy just work on it when they're slow in the shop.

Any advice or suggestions?

Response From Hammer Time

Do you have a security light on or flashing when you try to start it?

Response From ESG927 Top Rated Answer

Hubby says the dashboard has a short in it, so either all the lights are on or none -- BUT, prior to the recent problem, the car ran just fine with the dashboard light problem. So, the answer is, we don't exactly know, but the Mechanic is almost 100% sure it's a security issue since the fuel injectors are shut down after 2 seconds. If you give it ether to keep it running, a few seconds later it overrides the system and stays running. But won't restart again (without ether again).

Hubby adds that it has a new throttle position sensor (this has been replaced at least twice before in its lifetime).

Probably unrelated, but the Check Engine/Service Engine Soon light has been on for years (when the dashboard works, lol) because it kept burning up both oxygens sensors, one of which is expensive. After replacing them both a few times (and the catalytic converter once), I got tired of it, and just let it go. It never seemed to affect the performance significantly. We don't have emissions testing so the Light was not a big deal.

Thanks for any help.

Response From Hammer Time

And you're surprised that you have an engine performance problem?

Response From ESG927

nope. not surprised in the slightest. Thanks.