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Best Selling Genuine Mazda Thermostats

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We stock Thermostat parts for most Mazda models, including B2300, B3000, CX5, CX9, MPV, MX5, MX6, Miata, Millenia, Protege, RX7, RX8, Tribute, 3, 5, 6, 626.

Gates
2004 Mazda 3 Engine Coolant Thermostat Gates - 12°C/180°F (OE temp.)

P311-2E66305    W0133-1805792  New

Qty:
$45.76
Gates Engine Coolant Thermostat
  • Integrated Housing
  • Includes Coolant Outlet Housing and Gasket
  • 12°C/180°F (OE temp.)
Brand: Gates
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Mazda 3
Genuine
2011 Mazda 3 Sport Engine Coolant Thermostat Genuine

P311-3B589E2    W0133-1785092  New

Qty:
$61.37
Genuine Engine Coolant Thermostat
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Includes Coolant Outlet Housing and Gasket
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2011 - Mazda 3 Sport
Genuine
2006 Mazda MX-5 Miata Engine Coolant Thermostat Genuine

P311-3B589E2    W0133-1785092  New

Qty:
$61.37
Genuine Engine Coolant Thermostat
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 03/08/2006-08/31/2006
  • Includes Coolant Outlet Housing and Gasket
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2006 - Mazda MX-5 Miata Fr:03-08-06 To:08-31-06
Genuine
2007 Mazda MX-5 Miata Engine Coolant Thermostat Genuine

P311-3B589E2    W0133-1785092  New

Qty:
$61.37
Genuine Engine Coolant Thermostat
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -09/01/2006
  • Includes Coolant Outlet Housing and Gasket
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2007 - Mazda MX-5 Miata To:09-01-06
Stant
2008 Mazda B3000 Engine Coolant Thermostat 6 Cyl 3.0L Stant - Premium Thermostat

P311-0973D21    45359  New

18003357-C91 , AJ5715171A , 3192166 , 2000-195 , AT22963 , 644331XHT , J8127383 , 3156283 , 8127383 , 386525-C1 , 8983500360 , 4488422 , XR3Z8575BA , 905594 , 331XHT , 83500360 , 3780112 , AJ57-15-171 , 2843210 , 530090 , 33009S , 944667 , 4488471 , 60209 , 3156298 , AT10906 , 3203275 , 8123420 , 3015433

Qty:
$8.05
Stant Engine Coolant Thermostat
  • Temperature 195 Degrees This part is also available in the Engine Coolant Thermostat Kit 120KT, which contains 10234 (Radiator Cap), 25160 (Engine Coolant Thermostat Gasket) and 74172 (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor) OE Temperature
  • Premium Thermostat
  • Premium Superstat thermostat. Uses high venturi for maximum cooling capacity during high temperature, high load oepration. 25% larger piston in diameter that delivers 1 1/2 the power of standard thermostats. Stanless steel flange is burnished to a bright finish for stress relief and added corrosion resistance. Thicker flange.
Brand: Stant
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2008 - Mazda B3000 V 6 Cyl 3.0L 182 2986
Stant
2008 Mazda B3000 Engine Coolant Thermostat 6 Cyl 3.0L Stant - Economy Thermostat

P311-33D2B69    13009  New

119E , XL2Z 8575 AB , 705-185 , 03015493 , E5TZ 8575 C , 52028446 , F2TZ 8575-A , 39195 , 401-190 , RT-1025 , F6DZ 8575 AA , RT-1105 , 83838 , 4494469 , ZZS115171 , F88Z-8575-AA , RT-1152 , L33-9035 , 31995 , RT-1108 , 15359 , 3-727 , 807974C1 , 10-X , 269 , E8TZ 8575 A , RT-1161 , 1-X , XR3Z 8575 BA , ZZM415171 , W269 , 131-27 , 7244-195 , 1338018 , 3359 , ZZM7-15-171 , EOSZ-8575-A , E1BZ 8575 A , XL2Z-8575-AA , 244-192 , 30109 , F6CZ 8575 A , L33-9045 , E6DZ 8575 B , 12514334 , 13009 , 30009 , 132-67 , RT-1111 , 650HT , RT-1155 , E6AZ 8575 B , D4PZ 8575 A , RT-1067 , 7200-195 , 644322 , F4PZ 8575 AA , YF1Z 8575 BA , E8TZ 8575 B , F6ZZ 8575 A , 12323753 , 1807974C94 , E6SZ 8575 A , 52028 185AC , 1-195 , E6AZ 8575 A , 3009 , 300-195 , 1195 , RT-1024 , 3-753 , 131-40 , F1CZ-8575-D , 26-1129 , F4TZ 8575 B , 1807974C93 , F8DZ-8575-AA , J8127383 , 1807974C92 , RT-1087 , F5DZ 8575 A , F5DZ8575AA , F2SZ 8575 A , RT-1067A , F3TZ 8575 A , 728-195 , 1807974C91 , RT-1107 , RT-1029 , D9TZ 8575 AA , 3224216 , 83504856 , 3-771 , 52028185AB , L33-9055 , L33-9155 , 3-752 , 1338016 , E-105-195 , 1807945C1 , 33509 , 807974R92 , 32159 , EX5488 , RT-1114 , E7ZE 8575 AA , F58Z 8575 A , RT-1120 , 3839 , RT-1058 , F78Z-8575-AA , 400-195 , ZZP1-15-171 , F6TZ 8575 HA , 644356 , RT-1139 , E0TE 8575 EA , 52028185

Qty:
$5.38
Stant Engine Coolant Thermostat
  • Temperature 195 Degrees OE Temperature
  • Economy Thermostat
  • Original equipment design. Made of durable material for a long lasting life. Stainless steel assembly engineered for a smooth performance.
Brand: Stant
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2008 - Mazda B3000 V 6 Cyl 3.0L 182 2986
Stant
1997 Mazda B3000 Engine Coolant Thermostat 6 Cyl 3.0L Stant - Economy Thermostat

P311-33D2B69    13009  New

119E , XL2Z 8575 AB , 705-185 , 03015493 , E5TZ 8575 C , 52028446 , F2TZ 8575-A , 39195 , 401-190 , RT-1025 , F6DZ 8575 AA , RT-1105 , 83838 , 4494469 , ZZS115171 , F88Z-8575-AA , RT-1152 , L33-9035 , 31995 , RT-1108 , 15359 , 3-727 , 807974C1 , 10-X , 269 , E8TZ 8575 A , RT-1161 , 1-X , XR3Z 8575 BA , ZZM415171 , W269 , 131-27 , 7244-195 , 1338018 , 3359 , ZZM7-15-171 , EOSZ-8575-A , E1BZ 8575 A , XL2Z-8575-AA , 244-192 , 30109 , F6CZ 8575 A , L33-9045 , E6DZ 8575 B , 12514334 , 13009 , 30009 , 132-67 , RT-1111 , 650HT , RT-1155 , E6AZ 8575 B , D4PZ 8575 A , RT-1067 , 7200-195 , 644322 , F4PZ 8575 AA , YF1Z 8575 BA , E8TZ 8575 B , F6ZZ 8575 A , 12323753 , 1807974C94 , E6SZ 8575 A , 52028 185AC , 1-195 , E6AZ 8575 A , 3009 , 300-195 , 1195 , RT-1024 , 3-753 , 131-40 , F1CZ-8575-D , 26-1129 , F4TZ 8575 B , 1807974C93 , F8DZ-8575-AA , J8127383 , 1807974C92 , RT-1087 , F5DZ 8575 A , F5DZ8575AA , F2SZ 8575 A , RT-1067A , F3TZ 8575 A , 728-195 , 1807974C91 , RT-1107 , RT-1029 , D9TZ 8575 AA , 3224216 , 83504856 , 3-771 , 52028185AB , L33-9055 , L33-9155 , 3-752 , 1338016 , E-105-195 , 1807945C1 , 33509 , 807974R92 , 32159 , EX5488 , RT-1114 , E7ZE 8575 AA , F58Z 8575 A , RT-1120 , 3839 , RT-1058 , F78Z-8575-AA , 400-195 , ZZP1-15-171 , F6TZ 8575 HA , 644356 , RT-1139 , E0TE 8575 EA , 52028185

Qty:
$5.38
Stant Engine Coolant Thermostat
  • Temperature 195 Degrees
  • Economy Thermostat
  • Original equipment design. Made of durable material for a long lasting life. Stainless steel assembly engineered for a smooth performance.
Brand: Stant
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1997 - Mazda B3000 V 6 Cyl 3.0L 182 2986
Gates
2015 Mazda MX-5 Miata Engine Coolant Thermostat Gates - 12°C/180°F (OE temp.)

P311-2E66305    W0133-1805792  New

Qty:
$45.76
Gates Engine Coolant Thermostat
  • Integrated Housing
  • 12°C/180°F (OE temp.)
Brand: Gates
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2015 - Mazda MX-5 Miata
Gates
2006 Mazda MX-5 Miata Engine Coolant Thermostat Gates - 12°C/180°F (OE temp.)

P311-2E66305    W0133-1805792  New

Qty:
$45.76
Gates Engine Coolant Thermostat
  • Integrated Housing
  • Production: -03/07/2006
  • 12°C/180°F (OE temp.)
Brand: Gates
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2006 - Mazda MX-5 Miata To:03-07-06
Gates
2007 Mazda MX-5 Miata Engine Coolant Thermostat Gates - 12°C/180°F (OE temp.)

P311-2E66305    W0133-1805792  New

Qty:
$45.76
Gates Engine Coolant Thermostat
  • Integrated Housing
  • Production: 09/01/2006-
  • 12°C/180°F (OE temp.)
Brand: Gates
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2007 - Mazda MX-5 Miata Fr:09-01-06

Latest Mazda Repair and Thermostat Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2003 Mazda Tribute Overheating after 15mins of idling

Showing 4 out of 20 Posts | Show 16 Hidden Posts
Question From Ajharris on 2003 Mazda Tribute Overheating after 15mins of idling

2003 Mazda Tribute V-6. 3.0L with 89k miles
My 03 Tribute is also overheating, I've changed the thermostat, water pump, water pump pulley and belt, radiator as well, My coolant is not flowing from the overflow bottle the top radiator hose gets rock hard and hot after 15mins of idling and the bottom radiator hose remains soft and cool to touch. If I remove the cap off the overflow bottle the pressure releases and the top radiator hose gets soft.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You've replaced enough stuff to rule out those items but some things don't add up exactly. Upper and lower radiator hoses would be warm/hot up top and cooler/cold bottom but the pressure is the pressure dictated by the pressure cap so that doesn't make sense - it's one system. You can have some different pressure from a water pump drawing hard and fast at RPMs as well as too much pressure going to heater cores but systems take that into account by hose sizes or intentional restrictors so alone forget that for the heater.

If you feel system is pressurizing more than the stated pressure of the cap something is all wrong. The pressure cap may be on radiator or the "overflow" bottle as you put it and all pressure is limited to that but if coolant can't get to that reservoir for some reason that would change things.

Right now with it overheating you need to know if it really is at just 15 minutes. Do you mean that the gauge is on the high side or into warning area? Does heater continue to work or feel hotter - things like that are indicative or plain infrared temperatures that can target actual heat and where could help.

I think this has vapor still in the system either because it was never properly purged of air with any cooling system work or not too uncommon a failed head gasket can allow combustion gasses into cooling system which acts as air which will cause fast overheating, innaccurate or slow response to the vehicle's temp gauge and usually loss of heat at heater as vapor alone doesn't transfer heat well at all despite hot it is it needs liquid to do that.

Some (can't know each one that is a real pest) cooling system just do not fill well when touched for any reason or service and leave air that is too stubborn to purge itself out. Many just plain need to be vacuum filled as they would just take so long to properly fill with other tricks it's hard for a shop to have the time and near impossible for most DIYers to do without. Can't be done without and I'm not discussing some tricks for the fussy ones any more as it turns into a freaking novel to explain and this is already enough on my part. If only place to fill a system is at the "overflow" bottle you can't fill it properly from that when too low for any reason. If all things were normal with a system that was drained without a cap on radiator you will not succeed that way and risk overheating right away in the attempt.

1. Know system is full - truely full or get help.
2. Test for combustion gasses in cooling system.
3. Make sure any hose or passage from a recovery tank to radiator is free to pass coolant.

OK - You did all this for some reason to begin with no doubt overheating but that's a guess so why did you do all this?

Response From Ajharris

The temp gauge stays in the normal range, but the top radiator hose gets really hard and feels as if it wants to burst. When I remove the overflow cap the coolant backs out and the top hose gets soft and pressure is release. It seems as if something is stopping the water from entering the engine block both A/C and heater works fine. There is no cap on the radiator only on the overflow bottle

Response From Sidom

Well...this is a strange problem.......With most overheating problems you will see a rise in the temp, that's almost a given...

It is normal for a cooling system to build pressure, that is how they operate. Every pound of pressure you put on the system raises the boiling point by 1 degree. This is how systems can have cooling fans coming on in the 225 degrees range with no problems & on the reverse when you get a cap that won't hold pressure,,,,this will cause probems....

I would have to see this one but would think that from a cold stone start, you wouldn't see that much pressure that fast.....I would probably start off with monitering the computer datastream to see what temps the computer is seeing as opposed to what is showing on the dash......Take some temp reading on the block & around the t stat housing to see if it's overheating.....and then check the system to make sure exhaust gases aren't getting in from a head gasket going bad.....

I guess what I would want to know right now, since you say the temp is always in the normal range.......what brought your attention to this "problem"

Response From Ajharris

The temp gauge does go into the red but it's about after 30mins of idiling much later after the hose swells. I recently had problems with the truck overheating and shutting down after 20 mins of driving. I was told that the engine wasn't getting enough oil and was overheating and shutting down. I had the oil sender switch replaced and now the truck will continue to run but the overheating remains.

Response From Sidom

At this point I'm not real sure there is a problem......like a said it's normal for a cooling system to build pressure.....It needs that pressue to raise the boiling point....I was under the impression it was 1 degree for 1 lb......Tom is saying it's 3 degrees for 1lb but either way the system needs that pressure.....

Remote reservoirs are different some you will see some coolant flow & other ones are just for overflow and you won't see any movement....If you are talking about this Mazda as the "truck" there is no overheat shut down.....I would have to look up the different strategys for the PCM. Some had oil pressure tied into starting & wouldn't start with no pressure but no shut downs that I'm aware of.....

Now big rigs are different,,,,,They do have those safe guards for overheating

Response From Ajharris

But what would cause the temp gauge to go into the red zone if the truck wasn't overheating. The pressure build up is right at the thermostat housing it isn't thru out the whole hose only where it connects to the thermostat housing right before it enters the engine block

Response From Hammer Time

That's just impossible. The pressure is equal throughout the system.

You just need to let someone else look at this truck.

Response From Ajharris

The top hose coming from left side of radiator gets hot but I can completely squeeze and collapse hose if you follow the hose to the right side of the engine where it connects to the thermostat housing the hose swells up and becomes rock hard and can not be squeezed to even fill if there is water flowing. The bottom hose from the right side of the radiator is cool to touch and can be squeezed and collapsed even at the point where it also connects to the thermostat housing

Response From Sidom

Ok....I see where you said it does go into the red zone 1/2 way down....

You really seem to be describing a flow problem.....a no flow problem.......Was there any change to the original problem after you put all the new stuff on?

You may have got a bad T stat or a pump with a loose impellar......I've seen that before.....you may have to go back & double check some of the new stuff.....wouldn't be the 1st time the new parts were bad

Response From Ajharris

Yes, originally the car would shut down and refuse to start until it cooled off, I bought it to Firestone and they said that the engine wasn't receiving enough oil and was causing the engine to overheat and shut down, they replaced the oil pressure sender/switch. Now the truck won't shut down but I'm having problems with the overheating from a coolant standpoint I guess. When the hose swells at the point where it connects to the thermostat housing it gets really hard. This was stupid I know.....but I took a pair of pliers and slowly removed the clamp from around the hose and you can hear a hissing noise and steam. This is the only spot on the hose that swells to the point where it can't be squeezed

Response From Sidom

I think there is some confusion on here (at least on my part) on what parts have been changed in relationship to this problem happening......

If just an oil sending unit has been changed since this problem has startred, then everything needs to be looked at and I would start with the easiest/cheapest thing and that would be a T stat...

One of the biggest mistakes someone can make is not checking a part because it's been changed recently or even being brand new.....

Response From Ajharris Top Rated Answer

Sorry for the confusion and thanks for continuing to try and help me I really appreciate it. After the oil sender was changed and I start to have the coolant overheating problem. I have since changed 2 thermostats, water pump, water pump tensioner pulley and belt and radiator.

Response From Hammer Time

Not even remotely possible however the the hose rubber can be more rigid in one than the other.

Response From Sidom


The temp gauge stays in the normal range, but the top radiator hose gets really hard and feels as if it wants to burst.
Now there is conflicting info.....I was under the impression the gauge NEVER went into the red...... It would be impossible for the top hose to have excessive pressure in one end & not the other unless there was some type of barrier in that hose......I can't see the engine....I know when some hoses start to go bad they will get swollen and can expand more on the end that is going bad but there will be pressure thru the whole hose

Response From Tom Greenleaf

No surprise that letting the pressure out of a system the whole system losses pressure. Why would that confuse you? I mean no insult but that's like letting air out of a tire and top or bottom still has pressure

"ROCK HARD" isn't a measurement just your idea of the pressure. If a system pressures up from when it was released too fast that indicates a problem. Air in a system will heat up fast, total liquid takes longer and the pressure is simply expansion of coolant (normally) to be released at specified rating on the pressure cap to reservoir and able to return it when it contracts cooling down.

BTW - Common system pressures reach about 15 PSI which is some real pressure. You can drive most tires on that much. I don't know of systems ever that exceeded perhaps just a few up to 18 PSI. More than that things will let go or break in most. Pressure testers have warning area (at least mine) not to go that far or beyond. A good pressure tester will also test the pressure cap and about now I think you should do that.

ALL WARNINGS BE KNOWN THAT PRESSURE RAISES BOILING POINTS AND IF RELEASED TOO FAST OR WHEN TOO HOT IT WILL FLASH BOIL AND CAN BE VERY DANGEROUS! If confused by that you should let another check things out,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Again - give us some time. Some things are one word answers and some take some time. This is not some helpline out of India (me bad) on call 24 hours. It's free to use and all volunteer time as they have it and are not always here,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just saw your note posted before my post. Give us a chance. I'm not copy and pasting crap but writing things as I know them. If you want faster answers than mine read a manual on how to fill a cooling system specific to your vehicle...... T

Response From Ajharris

Sorry I am new to this whole forum type system but really do appreciate the knowledge that you guys share at no cost as I've had tried those sites that charge you in the past. Sorry

Response From Ajharris

Any suggestions

Thermostat spitting

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From cartrouble2252abc on Thermostat spitting

Mazda 2001 B 3000 (Pickup)

There is a constant spitting from where the thermostat is located. I replaced the thermostat, and flushed the radiator but it continues to happen. Note: the vehicle does not over heat. What could be the problem.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Spitting??????

Do you mean it's leaking coolant?

Response From kev2

if it is NOT heat related- check for a failed head gasket-

2005 Mazda Tribute, V6 will not start

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From dsherrill on 2005 Mazda Tribute, V6 will not start

My Mazda V6 has 68,000 miles on it. At times it has been hard to start. My daughter drives the car and said she has fuel odor when not starting. I have changed faulty thermostat and fuel filter. The car now cranks but will not start. it has fuel pressure. My Stinger 3769 reader has recorded codes P1509, P0113, P0118 and P1298. Can anyone help with P1509 and P1298 ? Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

P0113 and P0118 deal with IAT (Intake air temp). Although I haven't run into an IAT that would cause hard/no start conditions, it shouldn't be overlooked. Does it start okay when cold, but not when hot? Don't know if your reader has a live data function? Would be interesting to see what the PCM is seeing for actual temperature. If it 'thinks' that it is 30 degrees below zero, it's going to 'dump' fuel, flooding the engine. Couldn't find any data on P1298 and P1509. Probably manufacturer specific codes.

Response From dsherrill

Reader has no live data function but I did check plugs and engine is flooding. Also the Haynes manual I have talks about IAT sensor but does not indicate location. Can you help with this? Should the engine coolant temp (ect) sensor be normally closed or open? Mine appears to be open and I have read this sensor being faulty could cause a no start/hard to start condition.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Hope this CTS resistance chart comes through.

Response From dsherrill Top Rated Answer

ECT was in high temp mode. Replaced and now runs like a champ. Also had replaced thermostat. again thanks for your help.

Dean

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Dean; Thankyou so much for the reply. It's always nice to know when stuff 'works'. If we can be of any more help, don't hesitate. Have a great week.

Response From dsherrill

Chart came thru, will keep you posted.
Thank you for your help

93 mazda protege overheating

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on 93 mazda protege overheating

i have a 93 mazda protege runs fine. When I'm in slow traffic the temp goes up to almost over heating. If I pull over and put it in park then give it gas revving the engine. the temp drops down to normal. It will also drop to normal if the traffic breaks and I can give it gas to go faster. Any ideas?

Response From Bear505 Top Rated Answer

Sometimes, especially with Mazda, something as simple as changing the thermostat can do the trick. If they get sticky, or the spring gets week it takes more water pressure to move the water through. (hence reving the engine will cause it to cool) DON'T SIMPLY REMOVE IT! On a lot of the new engines, when the thermostat opens one hole, it closes another at the same time. They aren't that expensive, and usually pretty easy to find on the car.

Good luck... with the previous posts.. there are a number of things that could cause it.. Start with inexpensive and simple, then go from there...

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Bet the electric fan(s) is the culprit. Take a look and see if you have A/C if the fan also could help the radiator. Sounds stupid but if so the A/C mode should force the fan on and don't ask for much cooling but it may bring the temp down till this can be fixed properly.

You don't wan't to add damage if avoidable at all, T

Response From Guest

the a/c does not work... how can it be fixed? Just replace the fan?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

That's a 40,000 dollar question! What about it doesn't work. No condenser fan, low on refrigerant, no cabin fan, compressor not engaging etc etc. It is separate from engine cooling except maybe a common relay or fan underhood could cause both to not behave. More info on your observations would help, T

Response From Guest

I'm not concerned about the a/c. The car getting to the over heating stage and then when you rev the gas it goes to normal, is what I want to take care of. You mentioned the a/c fan might not be kicking on. would the a/c not working affect the cooling system?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

A/C should not effect cooling system. Basically you are welcome to leave it broken with the exception of any belts it shares which should only be pulleys and the car doesn't care whether it's able to make cool air for you.

The car is still supposed to turn on an electric fan for the cooling system for engine whether it had A/C or not. The symptoms as I've read seem to lead to that fan not coming on and I mentioned A/C as it's always on with that request and the regular mode would be as needed by engine heat.

Since this happens at low speed which is when the radiator needs help with air flow it points to that fan and what controls it.

When in motion the air flow of just moving is usually enough. When stopped in a traffic jam or any real slow driving it needs the fan.

Got to know if that is working or not to go much further, T

Mazda with only lukewarm heat. Help!

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From blueduke59 on Mazda with only lukewarm heat. Help!

I have a 1998 Mazda 626 and have only lukewarm heat. Not only that, the temperature gauge on the dashboard barely gets above the C mark while idling. when car is moving it drops below the C mark. Heater fan doesn't seem to be as strong as it once was as well. What could be the problem? Thanks in advance

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

The low temp is highly consistant with a thermostat that isn't closing properly and a new one should take care of the temp issue. The fan could be a few things from the motor itself or more likely dirty such that airflow is restricted.

I doubt it but it this car uses a cabin air filter change it or just take it out for better airflow.

Get the thermostat first and while system is drained for that I'd go ahead and flush the system if it's been a while,

T

Response From blueduke59

Thanks for the speedy reply, Tom. I'll do as you suggested