Shop Discount Thermostat Gaskets

That plug in t-stat housing could be for a sensor you don't have. It's after the t-stat so really shouldn't be the spot to let air out but if you want to try, go for it. If you take radiator cap off it should be full to spilling if it's been a while since filled properly. If there's still room to add coolant there fill it up as it should purge out to recovery tank and only be able to draw liquid back in - self bleeding in time.

What engine is in this? I have a 5.7 myself and it's not fussy about an air lock. Do check the cap and level again. The cap should maintain pressure when warmed and you can feel that in upper hose right there. When it cools the little dime flapper under cap opens and allows fluid back in. I'm guilty as all hell for not replacing caps as much as I should and they do cause problems. I clean them all the time though and use silicone grease on the rubber parts (two) so they stay working a long time.

This could be the trouble and shame on me for not thinking of it!!!!

T

My engine is the 4.3 litre V6 Vortec. 231 cu. in. I think. I just replaced the cap when I replaced the water pump and heater hoses. Seems to have plenty of pressure on upper hose.

Ok: That engine is a 5.7 with 2 cyl cut off - really! If rad is staying full that isn't it. It still could hold pressure but not seal at the unsprung gasket and purge out air or coolant there and not pull back just coolant. I'm still thinking

T

use the correct carb... no need to modify rig etc.
KISS

Was this thing carbed from the factory? What is the 8th digit of the VIN?

If it is carbed, those things wouldn't run worth crap if the rest of the system wasn't working correctly. It would be feed backed and idle speed controlled along with possible variable venturi. I don't even know how the older techs put up with that junk.

If the computer is missing or not functional, your best to find an old Motorcraft 2150 that isn't feedback controlled and slap it on there.

Thanks everyone. I have decided to either repair or replace with same unit.

Good move. Think about how it works. Carbs w/o ramming air or turbo charging are limited to atmospheric pressure to be sucked into engines not pushed in any way. Adding chance of more CFM (Cubic Feet / Minute) can't do more than the design of the engine, RPMs achievable, and a lot is involved with the cam and heads plus for carbs compression ratio can draw in more faster. Intakes and carbs so nothing but waste $ and make them run lousy if trying to give it more than it can use. The stuff to do all this is sold all over still and people don't get it.
Fuel must totally evaporate or is just a fire not power at a ratio known at about 14.5 to 1 air to fuel with real gasoline which isn't sold anywhere I know now.
Understood it's all in good fun and show but it doesn't work. The carb will only mix up as much as the airflow thru it which is limited to the rest of the engine's ability so a waste or worse to mess with unless seriously well thought out and can be done,


T

If this carb is feed back controlled, you still have to make sure that the EEC controller can control the throttle kicker, the mixture control solenoid, and receive inputs from the tps, coolant temp sensor, MAP sensor, and the O2 sensor. If the feed back solenoid isn't duty cycled properly, it will never run right. Also if the engine is old and tired, you'll definitely never get it to run correctly.

Night shift for a bit.
DS - incomplete on what this is. I forget when "we" quit calling a 302 that and called it a 5.0 so could date to introduction of that # in 1968, same thing was a 289 in '67. First general idea about 1960 was a 225 I think - we are pushing it.


This block proved tough but usually a dog for brute power. Not well supported for the aftermarket nor motor companies when performance was the desired goal.
Still made new for 2016 all altered only for trucks - no comparison.
Was made as a bulk work horse and for non automotive use as well one of few counter rotating engines available not sure why for trucks and obvious for marine use long discontinued wiped out rightfully by GM's small and large block V8s.
Again - this engine block was never the choice to play with for performance but well proven for plain boring durability left OE for all but a couple model years since its inception,


T

Thanks for your help. I now am looking at the EGR valve and it has been blocked. Do I need to replace it and open it back up or keep it blocked?

Not sure as I don't know what model year the engine was intended for and how you hook that one up. If you have the one the belonged on it with a vacuum hose just plugging the vacuum hose defeats the WORKING EGR alone which could be a test looking for troubles caused by it leaking.
The general idea of them is to put spit of exhaust gases into incoming mix of air and fuel prior to combustion which both reduced emissions AND helped with ping or knock at part throttle request on the engine. They don't do squat at idle or when full throttle requested so not really about performance. My issues with them have been leakers, lousy idle because it leaked exhaust in when it shouldn't.
This is now a cobbled in engine if really called a 302 for a carb instead of injected so not sure now if it would just complicate making it run well how you hooked it up to work?
IDK - if it runs well, no knock in just this case I might just leave it off and plugged with a plate once available might be there now?
For an engine to idle smoothly the camshaft design already leaves exhaust valve open just a nanosecond while intake stroke is working and draws back just a spit of exhaust all the time. Sounds contradictory but spent and hot exhaust actually cools the combustion hence less chance of know plus lowers emission on purpose or a side effect depending on model year.
I'd worry about other things first for just this case unless knock it noted now at part throttle,


T

My truck is an 86, but someone at AutoZone said the parts did not belong to a 86 Bronco engine, but an earlier 302, maybe from a Grand Marquis. From what I can tell it is a 77 Bronco engine. It does not run now and hasn't for about a year and hasn't run well for about 8 years so I don't know if it knocks. I got it "fixed" about a year ago for a large sum, but it quit running after about a month. I am now trying to learn to do everything myself (and fixing a car that doesn't work is the best way to learn, worst case it just does not work.) In the past it always sputters out when idling which hopefully will be cured with the carb rebuild. I will probably keep the EGR sealed and see how it runs and if something goes wrong then I might look into opening back up. What symptoms should I be looking for after I get it running? Just knocking?

Can you take a picture of the engine and post the link in here?

Agree - It may be our only chance to help as it's so unknown what the heck is going on or what engine it is, how controlled including what was likely hacked up.
Quote from back a few ">>It does not run now and hasn't for about a year and hasn't run well for about 8 years so I don't know if it knocks. I got it "fixed" about a year ago for a large sum, but it quit running after about a month."


OMG does that comment alone mess up this! If it was all OE anything that history alone would be a challenge!


T

After researching further I found that it is at earliest an 80 and latest an 83 302 Ford Windsor engine for a Bronco. I had it running a couple of days ago, but the carb kept flooding it out and pouring out the top like a fountain which I believe was caused by a stuck float. That is why I am rebuilding the carb. I have replaced the fuel pump, water pump, fuel filter, battery, solenoid, belts, and ignition wire.

I also changed and gapped spark plugs and replaced air cleaner.

The latest year a Motorcraft 2150 was put standard on a 302 is 82 and the earliest year the water pump that fits this truck fits on a 302 is 80. This is where I narrowed down the age of the truck.

This is still real hard for us except knowing a carb # helps a bit if the right one on it at all as a couple seem to be used?
Tough for info exactness - if you have an accurate rebuild kit hope it tells you EXACTLY what the float should weight. They can sink and flood out like you mentioned I dare say from use of ethanol in fuel now but not when these were made new.
Sample of one of two...........Weight:0.06 lbs
Looks similar in material at least to this.....
/
Just like a toilet tank that floats and pushes down on the needle valve to stop flow when full to correct level. Wild flooding of engine if either needle valve at fault or this way too heavy, saturated with fuel will or could so badly flood engine could ruin new plugs in no time and so much cylinder wash fast wear especially if you find fuel odor in oil worse if oil level is too high from last know correct!


Totally understood you are motivated and want to learn. This isn't impossible stuff by itself one by one problem but at lot of some of this is highly learned from lots of experience and very precise instructions.


OK - you pointed out it floods over which is a reason not to start but check for spark friend too. If this was just flooded out and not in oil yet I think line right before fuel pump is rubber and could pinch it off and probably ruin it but cheap enough. Idea is stop fuel from flowing at all on purpose. Then hold choke open carefully with nothing that can fall inside and spray starting fluid down carb. It should start right up for a few seconds or longer if you keep spraying a little at a time get oil pressure up.
NOTE - STARTING FLUIDS OR OTHER ANYTHING TO FORCE IT TO RUN IS NATURALLY QUITE DANGEROUS!!!! Don't unless ready for anything. Read containers of what you might try. Some carb cleaner will work, some wont, some brake cleaner is flammable the name brand ones are purposely not and say so on the cans look for yourself on brand name Brakleen (no typo) what it says.
I'm worried about the time spent running lousy and understand highly likely can run with so much flooding of fuel now too.
Just a friendly suggestion on the project as a whole. Watch out for how much you spend as this could be a junk engine now and harder to tell for absolute sure till it's been thru a compression check which isn't going to say much till it has been forced to run for even a short while as lifter may have collapsed or more.
This doesn't even address cost of exhaust and more that's probably wrecked - converter junk and rest rusted from sitting plus front pipe was probably something made up to fit at all? Can't know.


Tough situation for a learning vehicle for a lot of reasons,


Tom

That is the exact float. Ethanol ruins everything especially small engines. It ran for about 40 seconds before flooding each time. There is a lot of rust, but it could probably work well enough for a work truck to drive around property. The line running from fuel line to carb converts to rubber.

Ya - gave up the battle with plenty of yard stuff because of ethanol and bought electric for the little I need for certain things.
Forgot or rather wasn't thinking of rubber fuel line from fuel pump to carb not legal BTW is supposed to be metal tubing but people do that. If you want to try my test pinch that. Fuel pump knows when to quit trying to put more out.


Rust in fuel. Been thru that with other recently. Magnets, especially small but strong pencil size ones meant for pick up tools to usually the auto trade or anything. If crusty carb cleaner should loosen it up and pick up and blow out as necessary. BTW - as HT said carb kits don't come with much but gaskets so there for ability to do a good cleaning job. Other items sold separately or whole new if this engine can prove to you it's OK and you are willing a whole new should be ethanol compatible.
As said - I'm worried about this engine in general now and would and do for assorted engines cars or not as it hasn't had any run time to circulate oil now in YOU said a whole year - that's enough for an old engine,


T

What's in the kit isn't the issue. It's the knowledge, chemicals, equipment and experience in setting up a carburetor that you don't have. This is a skilled trade in itself.

Gotta start somewhere and i'll either learn to reassemble or learn how not to reassemble a carb and will have to replace which I would have to do anyway if I did not try to rebuild. Will these parts work if there was sufficient know how? Is there a better place you would suggest I start to learn?

OK, do it your way..............go for it

Don't get me wrong, I am in no way disregarding your advice, but don't see how it could hurt more than the $30 gasket kit. If I am going to tear up the engine somehow by doing this then please let me know. In my previous post I was not trying to be disrespectful, but truly wanted to know if there was a better place to start. Sorry if I caused any misunderstanding.

Jumpskin: I still suggest making this engine run now with it together as earlier stated you can if ignition is even close just spray into throttle body but disable fuel from vehicle. That to get engine oil circulated now.
With time and the kit you can do a good cleaning but that's really all the kit is good for - gaskets you might tear in taking it apart.
Depending on original or existing carb it may have tamper proof items like idle adjustment screws, choke thermostat may be riveted and kit should have screws from where you drill those out. Things like that. OE exposed or hidden idle mix screws are probably "clutch" headed and it's not about changing them, you need them and choke's black thermostat off to clean out vacuum ports.
Final adjustment if the engine is any good at all which we don't know is done with it running both cold and warmed up if it was new out of a box.
You like the web and so do I. Look up what they have for carb tools - tons for assorted carbs and some handy for other things too. They aren't cheap.
Just FYI on the kits. 1/2 of what comes in that you won't need, isn't for this exact one so could have two as that's easier and cheaper to sell that way.
Must pay attention to not break things. Clean area to work with carb alone and don't turn it upside down once you have it apart!
I worry most that is hasn't run for a year, ran lousy for many years before that and what was hacked or cobbled up to make it ever work at all,


T

I will try to get it running today. I have completely disassembled the carb by following step by step directions with pics I found on a website. The only thing I did not take apart was the choke because the site said it was optional and most of the time not needed. Do you advise I disassemble it also? The kit I ordered was called the Motorcraft 2150 kit. Will it be a generic kit with parts for more than this one?

As you said this was not the point now, but I was wondering about the rubber line leading to the carb. The carb has a filter with a rubber fun line fitting screwed into it like it was made to use a rubber fuel line. Was that added later? Like you said the engine might be "hacked and cobbled" together and it might have been a later addition.

Jumpskin: Don't worry about the hose as long as it's good and not rubbing anything.
Choke if you mean "its thermostat housing" you can do on vehicle later and know if it needs anything with a simple test. When this thing runs plug off hose to air cleaner so you can watch it as it warms up. The black round thing has a bi-metal spring to shut choke when cold and get heat from intake manifold where exhaust heat criss/crosses I think on those slowly via an on purpose vacuum leak inside there. The housing will feel warm to hot and choke plate should shut off (straight up) at a rate of engine warming up to run well both warm and cold. If not the vacuum hole inside probably isn't drawing vacuum or exhaust heated vapor not getting in.
That would mean you both spray them clean till open up to fine wire too, compressed air till it works.
Suggestions on the web or in print mean little vs the thing you are working on in front of you. Said - I love the web but watch out too as it's full of bullcrap and plain wrong info too that never gets corrected.
What would aggravate those tiny ports is frequently carbon from running lousy (rings a bell!) could be from fuel or oil burning. Lousy oil change history, sludge wrecks everything, blow-by from a worn engine will fill crankcase with too much oily smoke and be sucked in thru PCV and begin to clog things up.
Trick for this engine and others if PCV is actively working smoke will go DOWN the tube that holds your dipstick for oil not blow back out.


About wire I mentioned. Cheap and nice to have for assorted use. About the size of what is inside a twisty tie used like on a loaf of bread or the craft area of department stores as it's used to tie thing especially real or silk flower arrangements in place colored with dark green both keeps it from rusting while stored but is what I use. It's fine like fish line just wire. IDK why but my own usual parts store doesn't sell it?
BTT - if working forget it. The cover must be air tight and if kit didn't come with a gasket for that they expect you to use old one which is fine unless wrecked and doubt easy to find alone.
Hey - a carb really makes sense for what they can do or did for ages when all is well. Same job as any idea -deliver correct air to fuel mixture so it will run properly when compressed inside the cylinders. No real magic that's the objective for that.
They do take time this one much less than some,


T

Thanks so much for your help! I will clean the carb and get it back together and start checking some of those other possible problems. How can I tell if my engine is burning oil? will it just be very smoky exhaust? Thanks for that twist tie tip also, i'll give it a try.

I also just changed the oil and filter and it did not look to bad. It has been changed every 3 to 5000 miles for the past 15-16 years at least (since my dad owned it). How else could you tell it was not changed frequently enough?

Refresh - wire LIKE that of a twisty tie. If exactly those burn off the paper or plastic and wipe clean - was just pointing out they sell the stuff as wire only.
* Oil burning? You would consume more than you think it should for "X" # of miles. If not leaking and can make smoke out tail pipe that's way too much if from plain wear.
* You asked how to tell if not often enough? Well - quality of oil does vary plus use the engine gets. Looking under oil filler cap, top part of a dipstick are quick clues or pulling a valve cover off for good look better. If gooy, sludgy or worse about like fudge that's been burned it's way to bad. A or B if so. Change oil more often and it should slowly clear up. Damage if that far wont heal.
If that bad most engines that get used will fail from it throwing clots of junk such that parts don't get oiled.
Garaged vehicles that are run to fully warm regularly, don't overheat oil does well. Don't try to flush one out as it's too fast.
Now you may ask how often? Hard to peg that exactly but count both miles and time and go by suggestions in all owner's manuals or if not used much or hard use or exposure more often like 3mo. or 3,000 for many and if you choose correct viscosity of synthetics a bit longer is OK - don't believe those that say 15,000 mile oil - that's pure bull.
Checks on wear include compression testing or easy that real good one the oil pressure will read in normal area of a gauge very quickly, oil light types the light goes out almost instantly. Any noise/ticking on cold starts that takes a while is a bad sign.
It's not an exact science how long. You can also just take care of them like crazy and have bad luck.
Of all things and vehicle's being in the top few expenses most people don't read an owner's manual especially maintenance intervals!. Apply some common sense not some "app" on some device handy as they are.
I can be harder but also handy to know when to send stuff out and when it's no longer practical to keep a whole vehicle.
Don't think I can stop you so keep on truckin'..........


T

Thanks. I'll look over those points. Like you said it might be time to send stuff out, but I could probably get a better price if the truck was running than not.

For sure you'll get more for a vehicle that runs vs dead of any type.
YOU need to make the educated guess as to what expense can be justified for the vehicle or repair vs sending out. I did bite for carb work even from busy shops with "important" regular customers to keep happy and not spend so much time on one vehicle when a line of work was waiting. If it would tie up a bay of the shop it plain wasn't worth it.
Right now if you send a carb out to a shop you also have to find the right shop who even wants that work and still even remember where they stuck all the tools that make it faster. Buying them all new again would be a waste for one job so almost all suggestions are going to be buy a ready to bolt down rebuilt or new one same with other parts now ongoing.
Done with it except my own now but still have the tools and would for certain people if given no rush order. Have a whole box full of those "rebuild" kits with all the gaskets, balls, plunger things, clips, rods and more that were in the kit not needed for that job but might for another.
I would consider this carb easy as they go and don't really need ANY special tools if you already have a lot of assorted tools which techs do and go broke over!


It's an expensive addiction is about what it is!


T

I enjoy working on engines, especially older engines and hope to do all of my auto work in the future. I have recently started getting more into auto work because I got a $4500 quote for my 01 Tundra and did all of the work myself (brakes, sway bar end links, etc.) except the timing belt/water pump and also bought all of the tools I needed and premium parts and came out with a $1750 bill including the water pump/timing belt with hydraulic tensioner upgrade. The tools are expensive, but when you are paying $100 hour you can get a lot of tools. Plus it is really enjoyable working on engines! I hope the engine will be running after this carb work and ready to sell (though I like working on the engine much better than a modern 01 engine).

That price also includes mistakes such as incorrectly disassembling a caliper and having to replace it and still came out way ahead. The brakes are still working for now so I might have even done them right!

I am trying to keep the budget for this Bronco engine under $500 and am currently at $200 with gasket kit. I know if I had someone do the water pump for me it would have been $800 alone.

Sport - Switch subject for a minute. I CAN'T THINK OF ONE BRAKE CALIPER THAT REBUIDING YOURSELF IS CHEAPER NOW THAN SWAPPING FOR ONE ALREADY DONE! You are playing with fire even trying to do that for this vehicle a whole caliper my cost wholesale is less than $20 the kit is more and doesn't include a new or checked piston, bleeder screw etc. Much, much older when disc brakes were not common you did redo your own as needed - no comparison.
Learning is great but let's keep it to getting this to run not brakes as what you just said clearly (to me) suggests you shouldn't be learning alone on brakes, YouTube crap on how it's so easy bull you are risking lives messing up brakes! NO - that you get some real experienced hands on help with.
Not mad at you just don't use a deadly weapon (any vehicle) such as brakes as a learning experience when they fail learning how to do them properly by or with people who do.
Stick to making it run currently work with the carb and doubt it will end there no matter what with history, mix matched engine, age of both plus time just dead sitting around.
Saving a buck is no surprise but can also bite you. Knowing the difference is the game.
Thread is long enough so let's focus on one issue at a time till solved and move on to next as a separate issue and summary of how you got there and what this is,


T

I didn't rebuild the caliper, but replaced it on may 01 Tundra. I also was worried about my know how so everything I did I then took to a mechanic for an inspection to make sure I did it right which he did for $75.

OK - Just my own and much of the regulars will NOT suggest learning with brakes. Any type vehicle any year.
Back to carbs and reasons: TMK gone now for automotive use for quite some time. Nothing wrong just way to hard to continue altering them to meet requirements for emissions AND fuel MPG averages for a company called CAFE = Corporate Average Fuel Economy and much faster to use instant control of injection than a carb and been so long fewer techs will recall some snags from working on them. During this transition dang ethanol was forced on us to use not optional. Well it isn't compatible with certain items that are not designed for it and where I am no option to buy fuel without it easily anyway.
It's part of the picture when having problems with now old engines.
Back to work. I feel it my responsibility to warn members here not knowing their experience, equipment available or situation matters.
There's plenty that dangerous to deadly about working with hoisting heavy things, dealing with toxic products, flammable ones. Brakes are their own danger by nature.
Let me/us know how you are making out with this so far,
T

I just called Fedex to see when the carb cleaning solution was going to arrive and was told since they tried to deliver once and I was not there they were returning to sender so I have reordered and am going to receive it Thursday. I better be here for the one chance Fedex gives me.

Why did they start using ethanol seeing it takes more energy to make than it creates? I don't remember leaded gas (i'm 19), but found some gas in a garage behind my granddads house from a long time ago and it still burned well on the ground (I didn't put it in any engine to test it because I did not want to mess it up.) Does ethanol give you any hp advantage?

Ethanol IMO was more political than practical. It's subsidized and forced to make it or wouldn't be self sustaining. Hey - these ideas don't have to be good just voted on by people with an agenda - different game again as it's here.


Old fuel should really be discarded. No telling what you really have even if filtered.
Tetraethyl lead was used such that you could make higher octane ratings out of lower/cheaper levels of fuel for it's anti-knock rating for pennies but also very hard on deposits in engines, made a good if stored too long, fouled plugs and more. It's toxic as well was enough reason to eliminate it and generally not compatible with emission items.
It's trivia now but gasoline was sold for ages without lead called "White Gas" for marine use, storing seasonal vehicles but lots more expensive and I only recall it wasn't sold out at the regular drive up to pumps rather out back of gas stations.


You'll freak but if the leaded stuff was 26.9 cents the unleaded would be about 35.9 cents always high octane as I recall too. There were "Gas Wars" and it would drop to like 17.9cents as a spiteful game with competing gas stations! A gimmick game for attention more than anything.
It now has no use in fuel that I know of.
It's not relevant to you Bronco at all now.
Curious - how much could you think you saved by buying carb solvents by mail/delivery vs just go getting it? It's dirt cheap if you don't buy a brand name - just bought some for $1.99 a can @ the infamous WallyWorld. Whatever.
Again - where are you at with this project?


T

Good info on the gas, very interesting. I wish I could buy gas with change I found in my truck.

On the Bronco I have completely disassembled the carb and am waiting for the cleaner and gaskets which are supposed to both arrive by Thursday morning. I am going to try and start without the carb on like you said earlier with some spray. I have not been able to try because of finals this week. I have two kinds of carb cleaner spray (which I got at Home Depot like you said. The cleaner I am waiting for is something you can soak the parts in). How can I tell if the carb cleaner will work for starting the engine?

Carb cleaner is generally flammable but not as good at keeping an engine running as starting fluid. I guess if you wonder try some on a paper towel and see if it burns after sprayed wet in one area or can't burn there?


In that it hasn't run in so long I'd personally rather use starting fluid and yes it too I just got for now $2.49 @ WallyWorld. Somehow I don't think that would be easy to ship being quite dangerously flammable. Forcing fuel down a throttle body has it's risks of a flash or backfire so beware and ready. Don't overdo either just be fast to crank engine especially with starting fluid as it evaporates quickly.


Do have and read fire extinguishers. Should say will work on fuel fire marked "A,B,C." If any reason an engine fire doesn't go out as in flashing back or too much used on any puddle of it or oils put it out after a couple seconds. Hard call as if you do spray an engine with a good fire extinguisher the dusty kind seriously can prevent it from starting for a long time if everything was fine!


These things are also hard on paint and other things fire or not. Read labels.


More: Don't crank engine way too long. Count - 10 seconds is plenty at a time then a full 2 minute wait to try again.
It's been sitting so may not work at all too if lifters have collapsed from long term no oil pressure the valves may not open.


Are you away from any auto parts store at all to buy even the cheapest spark tester? Even one that just goes between spark plug and the wire to it would be nice to know it's working at all.


Hey - it's cold already and should be where I am and any equipment hard to start need to know. If for a reason say lawn mower or Summer equipment doesn't start knowing spark is present handy and starting fluid sometime a must if thing is normal as they do make small engines to start better for cold on purpose like snow removal things.


Another more: If it has spark and given fuel and nothing fires, pharts or anything plugs may be too soaked from earlier so may get spark and not fire. If so say so I'll suggest what to do if so,


T

Ill go and get some starter fluid. It hasn't run for a long time, but it did run for about 45 seconds before flooding out the other day. How long of running am I shooting for? I looked at spark testers today, but did not get one. I'll go back and pick one up. It might be cold where you are, but it is unseasonably hot and sadly it went to nearly 80 here today with a low of 59. Its supposed to cool off this weekend though. (I love cold weather).

If engine turned/ran for a real 45 seconds oil pressure should be fine to run on that part. Rule that out now as a cause of not running because of collapsed lifters. Spark still wonder,
T

It ran smoothly for about 30 seconds and I then had to pump the gas for another 15 to keep it from conking out before it finally flooded. I then tried again about 15 minutes later and it started again for about 10 seconds. I'll get a spark tester for the spark check.

? Did it do this AFTER the carb work or nothing done yet? Count seconds as real seconds not guesses of time. Can't know if spark cuts off with this and you would have to witness it watching with hood open running throttle as needed from under the hood you can easily trigger starter at the solenoid with key left on "run" on this I think if the engine was set up with it on inner fender shield or to the side not at starter - can't know what was done to fit this together.


Flooding again, starts again later choke issues on list if nothing done yet.
Did you check oil level and for fuel odor yet? Was this test done with fuel from it thru pump or just spraying. Need to know what's already done or how you did what. It probably has proper spark with this.


Not sure pumping gas with a carb that floods helps or hurts right now but at least it ran some at all.


More to know what made it die out and what you were doing,


T

It did this before I touched the carb. I do not have the exact time it ran, but can only estimate. I now how to start with the solenoid which is on the side fender as you stated. I have not checked oil smell yet because it has been raining here. Will there be an odor even though it has been changed just before trying to start the other day? This test was done using the fuel pump from the fuel tank which I made sure all new gas. The tank was empty while it was sitting, but the carb was not apparently. I have a spark tester coming tomorrow. I went to the store to get the one I was looking at and it had been bought and they were out of stock.

? Gotta ask now what or why is there a fuel pump in the tank still on a carbed now engine? Fuel pump on side of this engine if carbed was much lower pressure than an electric one from tank for Fords anyway. There were some carbed vehicles with electric pumps specs for the set up.


This is now a reason for troubles. How does fuel run when it ever ran properly? If from only the tank OE to the 86 Bronco It really should be thought out to just use that as a pick up for fuel and a gauge then pump from engine run off camshaft low pressure more like already mentioned 3-6 or perhaps 4-5PSI is all that's needed. There's slight suction on mechanical pumps pulling from tank to an on engine mechanical pump OR it could be done with a lower pressure in line pump.
It had to have fuel to flood over so wasn't empty or was blasting too much pressure for a carb not really tested out by me as a needle valve really should stop fuel from entering if pushed down with weak pressure of the float, floating or with a finger if running with a top off carb watching for actual fuel level (we aren't there yet nor set to adjust there yet as needed if needed.
Other problem is most all fuel pumps for injection are PUSHING fuel thru injectors not sucking in fuel from the bowl.
Info can be wrong but there was one external pump used for the 86 5.0=302 and gauge only was in the tank but capable of up to 90 PSI which is a LOT! Many rely on being wet with fuel or quickly burn up others a diaphragms and make pump, pump, pump sound vs a buzz sound are not so fussy running empty. It's just a side note but use one with hose for fuel transfer or emptying tanks now wired to run off of an 12v power port frequently on jumper boxes or create or buy one to work that way.


This part changes the show if messed up and not thought out. If a mechanical pump is also used gotta know as I don't think those are going to be happy with high pressure pushed at them or some creation made up and delete mechanical one.
Mechanical pumps are generally one way valves inside allowing fuel in but not back to tank and pressure fuel out but only as strong as a spring that pushes on a diaphragm as well inside like when fuel isn't needed momentarily or done making enough pressure.
I plain don't know how or what would self destruct depending on how this was cobbled?
Yikes - now you have to know what was done or do some testing. Long thread but didn't you say you spend a ton back when on work and it only lasted a month? What was done? Do you know?
It gets worse unfortunately as either had systems for California specs or 49 state specs. There's an evaporative emissions set up in any that could be loaded with liquid fuel being sucked in as I can't guess who has done what about that?
There are many ways this might have been fueled and pumped if original now lost info so far probably forever.
Guess: Actual regular needle valve in carb bowl would stop flow of even high pressure but probably only so long. It was said it worked but lousy for 8 months - right?
Part II of the guess is that needle valve has sustained too much pressure for too long and it wrecked it. A new one for the carb would probably work again and fail again also now IMO as this is a cobbled set up of two different fuel delivery models quite possibly not thought out well enough which is going to be a primary problem now yours to figure out and in the learning stage of vehicle repair - this wouldn't be included in any norms of repair training,


T

The fuel pump is mechanical and on side of engine directly below power steering fluid reservoir/pulley. The pump was working good the other day (the fuel lines are some kind of clear acrylic fuel line) and fuel was flowing in well. I have not been in the tank so I do not know if there is a pump in there or not. It has never been owned in CA so the engine does not have any of their standards. The carb kit just came in, but I still need the cleaner which is supposed to arrive by this afternoon. I am not sure if I answered all of your question so let me know if I missed something.

I was going blind at how many different ways the original could have delivered fuel so about impossible to know. One set up showed 2 pumps used without explanation as if for two fuel tanks or what?
Same guess for now. Needle valve is damaged/leaking more likely than sunken float. IDK how fast YOU can get a new one in when kit arrives but might stop this flooding show not helping anything for some time?
This is plain tricky as plain and simple it's the wrong engine for the vehicle and how fudged to make it do anything only a guess now.
It could all be thought thru and done to work properly but so many obnoxious variables this is a mess at best to be sure of much of anything.


See how the kit goes if only that needle valve for now,


T

The kit came with a needle valve and seat and I compared them and they are exactly the same. I'll use them instead of the old one. Thanks for your help so far! I appreciate it. I would not of even gotten this far by myself.

Look hard at top of carb and what's attached to just it like a rod to choke etc. Don't drop ANYTHING down the carb!
May be clips like mini hitch pins or rod has a hammered dimple only one position it will come out/off. OK to use a sharpie just make a dot where things go. Kits used to have a decent diagram but doesn't/didn't go into minute detail.
Mid note: Carbs are a "top", "middle" + bottom just FYI. Just the top for now. Remove in order you can put flat headed (usually) screws back in exact place. Use a bit of cardboard making holes to hold them noting which was first and make a circle of them is what I did a lot. Some could be longer than others for a reason. Don't mess up. When every possible thing is undone plus the screws it should lift right off but could also be stuck. If so very carefully pry where the gasket is if with about a 1/4" flathead screwdriver or tool that would do and gently twist - don't wreck softer metal of carb. It may just lift partly or totally - each different by age or gasket type used. Some the gasket stays fine some it can split leaving part of it on middle and top a pest to remove cleanly for new.
Then you have full view of bowl and float. Float should with a little rod just lift up note that rod also holds it in place when together too. Rod, float should just lift out together - set aside on clean tray or dish -what works for you.
You can then see if needle valve is loose or held with a small clip wire or something and came out or stayed in the bore it seals in is a hole with two slots such that a flat head screwdriver larger now can get in slots of both indents and unscrew it. Use care always but there's a small gasket under it and the bottom of that and a new one it kit.
With it out you should be able to remove fuel inlet and spray thru that to clean anything out there, probably nothing but you know its open without even tiny debris that can even cause a needle valve not to seat and seal shut.
New should match all maybe different color of the pointed tip? You have full view of fuel bowl now. Almost has to be some junk in there if only powder dirt? If rust flakes or mud that usually comes out with a magnet and careful spray. Jets are also screws with exact size holes that screw in also. Can be left and no new ones in kit. Spray thru those holes and look down and watch spray come out inside throttle body in middle section. That's clean now if so.
Screw in thing and gasket where needle valve will go snug is enough. Now ready to put float, rod that goes thru it and new needle valve back in dry bowl now may not set in place or may have something to hold it? If you push on where metal of float touches needle valve holding that rod down that how high it can go if floating in proper fuel. Many you need to hold with finger and use provided paper like thing marked with measurements to a line on float to top of middle of carb body or whatever it says and shows. If way the heck off that should say you gently bend such that it's right on the # specified while still holding that float and rod down as if carb was all together it will be.
At this point you could run the engine but don't. We are into page three already and would take a whole page for another time but not really necessary. In this you can cleanly fill the bowl with clean fuel but probably better not.
Put top back down without forcing anything in the same way it came off.
We/YOU left bowl empty this round so only cranking is going to fill it with fuel so don't really expect this to start right away it won't and just let it fill by cranking engine now unseen and choke plate is cold should be shut - everything is cold even at 100F that's cold to your engine.


Start it up. Said it may take time for fuel to fill not much different than a carb that ran out of gas and when you added gas to tank type cases if you ever went thru that.
It should run and not leak. Not certain how idle screw or set up is on this but forgive it for a little while and just let it warm up, watch choke open wide which is if every other thing about the engine was right is you new idle speed you would adjust to spec if this thing was new. No more flooding out the carb should be possible if needle is pushing down cleanly in its seat pushed by float, floating in fuel - got it? That alone should end the flooding crap for about sure if done right.
See how that much goes. You can go back there again later with same gasket almost always.
* Begin any of this with clean outside parts of carb.
* Do not use Teflon tape to seal fuel on anything threaded the threads or a flare is the seal!
* Any cold run speed adjustment or idle adjustment count turns you made in or out so you have a reference point to go back to.


Hey - sorry that info off the top of my head not copied from some other place. If something missing in that dissertation forgive me, it's not in front of me and from memory from a very long time ago now.


Good luck - that may or may not solve many issues for just that done well,


T

Thank you! I'll get started on that tomorrow afternoon when all my finals are over and let you know how it goes. Thanks again!

Got everything clean and noticed three things. First, the spring on the venturi no longer even looks like a spring its been crushed. Secondly there is a hollow needle on the top part of the carb and it was loose and I just lightly wiggled and it popped out. Thirdly, one idle adjustment screw is bent. Other than that it looks pretty good. Is this repairable?

I am still waiting for the new float and I also got new jets of the right size. The needles that a clip connects to in the venturi also seem loose.

Looking at a diagram the venturi part that has a bad spring and pins is the air metering assembly. By the way the small holes at the bottom of the bowl were clogged. The new float is coming in Saturday.

I believe the part that went in the top that came out is the brass pass tube.

I was about the order the idle screw, but do I measure the thread or whole screw? There are 3 different sizes.

! Your observations suggest this carb has been messed with and broken and may not be useable! Didn't want to hear that.
Idle screws on last several engines with carbs frequently tamper proofed them and people wouldn't buy the tool needed or knock out a plug so you couldn't mess with them. They shouldn't need messing with ever but at rebuild time or if dirty do need to come out to clean thru and put back where it was.
It's probably a "clutch" headed idle mixture screw and maybe just straighten it out. It should turn in to bottom by hand easily or something isn't right so don't force it.
Almost all you still need a tool to touch it and or kit like this I have and get any bits extra needed for assorted screw heads. Hope picture shows..........

3rd try if not show Google Images of idle mixture adjustment tools,
This makes it easy but if messed up, cross threaded or broken critical parts you are in trouble with this carb!
Our situations are night and day different. I have all these tools and a box full of spare screws to match up on hand now still! Who else would? Not many. Even back when you could get a whole used original carb to work with dirt cheap, harder now to impossible depending on your area.
This whole kit of assorted types of them is turned by hand at one end thru a strong cable that makes a sharp angle turn to accept a 1/4" drive socket for type of screw head. Scary but just that alone as a tool I think cost me near $100 bucks about 35 years ago but by Snap-On which always was expensive.
Now a bit lost for you. If this is broken or cobbled too it's back to square one. Another carb to redo that isn't messed up or a rebuilt hoping it isn't messed up and some could be.
Note: Cars sold new with carbs either had settings pre-set off some with or without having to go back at a 500 mile new car/vehicle break-in check up and set these things and more all over a vehicle to last till some service or repair came alone later.
BTW when if dealing with idle mixture screws know that it's mostly just idle mixture not the mixture the fuel will deliver thru the ranges which many people think and mess with them. Unless clogged they don't need messing with so car makers made it near impossible for DIYers to mess with and gave up and just made everything fuel injected as it was a total headache for both techs and customers of even brand new vehicles.
You have to make the educated decision to bail out on this carb, get a good "core" to work with or get a rebuilt one. Trouble there is your call as it's more $$ at this vehicle that I doubt is the end of making it run properly at all.
Can you post pic of problem area(s) of just this right now? At some point you are going to have to decide if this cobbled vehicle is going to be worth the battle as a whole not just one item at a time,


T

The tube that came out is laying next to the hole it came from. The screw that is bent is in the other pic and then I have a pic of the main body of the carb.

? Just surfed the whole web in an hour and almost found a name for it! Best I can guess is it's a vent tube that goes in pointed side down probably for evap system to start and stop as needed from canister.
Fuel mix needle valve? Doesn't look bent to me but where's the spring? That one may not belong to this carb!
Plenty of room for error but should look like this as a set available new searching carb #...............

IDK, if those showed they were exact for the model you said it was but who knows now?
Kit should have come with a total diagram of every last thing about it in diagram with arrows to each part w probably a # and another place what the # names each.
I don't think these seal raw fuel, the pointed end sets to allow so much flow thru where it bottoms.
You have this a lot more apart than just the needle valve already alone which was the likely issue first. I suppose if evap's canister is full of fuel it could cause flood out too said back when as the whole set up doesn't belong in the truck.
There is so much missing info this is near impossible now carb not even known if it belonged on the engine that didn't belong either.
Do you have any details of what was done to make it run at all without vomiting fuel out at least but ran? What was missing then or done may help now and bet not available.
IDK - perhaps put back together what you have, back on vehicle and see what it does. In this whole thread there was no mention that this engine swap ever worked right just that it ran. That's not very encouraging about the engine was good then in other ways now this.
This equates to two puzzles (the things you put together for the picture things) from pieces of TWO puzzles upside down with no picture and not the same pieces to put together to work with.
If you can't get it to run this cobbled thing is yours to decide always - put it all back to OE if you can find a whole engine and all parts including all wiring and components that came from a known well running one junked for another reason totally or cut you losses and let this whole thing go for salvage value now.
Can't pull magic for this with way too many unknows getting worse as it goes along!


Tom


Pic ^^^^ was there?

I removed the spring. It is only slightly bent when you roll it on a table. I found replacements, but there were three different sizes for the 2150 carb and I did not know if I was to measure from the start of the threads or end to end. I do not know what was done a year ago to the truck. The truck has run good before, but it has been 8 or 9 years ago. How do I put the upside down vent tube back in? Thanks for searching for the answers! Going above the call of duty!

Can't see where it's bent but it probably would go back in without force? Hey - web shopping doesn't equate to setting it on a counter and matching it up or trudging thru a junkyard to get a matched correct set one a spare if you wanted but old so may be none to check out. That or I would go thru a selection of nuts on hand and see how it matched to run the length of thread or maybe very carefully straight the one you have or just run a thread chaser know exact out of the tap and die set.
It's all the dang tools you probably don't have.
A thought: Take good one and thread it to just till it catches then count how many turns it goes till bottoms out. Do the same with the other to see if it matches? Just an idea as what counts is the tip end but not wrecking threads of carb either at all.
If you get something credible and they did clean out spraying thru with them out is the only reason to touch them at all put them back as said already if unknown where they belong by turns 2.5 to 3 turns out. Other is if running at least OK is tweak them at that and count turns OUT by 1/4 or 1/2 turns till best then back in 1/2 turn or so. If one want something different than the other fine if just a little but not whole turns.
Again - it came out so think it will go back in and flaw I can't see isn't to do with the threads,


T

Like you said I did disassemble completely, but had to remove all gaskets to clean according to the cleaner. I found somewhere with the exact carb with step by step pictures and I also took pictures of every step during disassembly.

Forgot or rather wasn't thinking of rubber fuel line from fuel pump to carb not legal BTW is supposed to be metal tubing but people do that

I'd be curious to know where you got that idea from. OEM have been using rubber line on carb-ed and fuel injected fuel lines as long as I can remember.

Pretty sure of that but isn't a point now for this. Reason is it's fuel under pressure vs the rear to tank and in a collision if engine was still running they think metal wont leak as easy - never saw OE otherwise. Had to move a couple + did use best fuel injection hose not metal to stop vapor lock as the metal one got too hot!
****************
Not yet any issue either way - let's see if this engine can run at all now carb or not? Tom

Just about every Asian manufacturer uses rubber line and clamps to the fuel rail with 30 to 40 PSI. The carb system has about 3 to 4 PSI.

If it meets spec so be it. Not the point at all yet, T

That is why I am rebuilding the carb

Where did you suddenly get the know how and equipment to rebuild a carburetor?

This is not a simple matter to set up a carb correctly and normal, over the counter chemicals are not going to do the trick to get this carb breathing properly..

That is why I am rebuilding the carb

Where did you suddenly get the know how and equipment to rebuild a carburetor?

This is not a simple matter to set up a carb correctly and normal, over the counter chemicals are not going to do the trick to get this carb breathing properly..

Learning as I go. I have a tachometer for adjusting idle after re-assembly. What chemicals will I need? I have chem-dip to use once needed. Will that not suffice? What would your suggestion be? I would like to learn to do it myself rather than have someone else do it so I can restore other cars as well.

My suggestion would be to purchase a factory rebuilt unit and not even mess with that one. Throwing a set of gaskets into a carb is no rebuilding. Mechanical wear and internally restricted passages are not going to be fixed with a set of gaskets, even if you do figure out how to put it back together which is doubtful.

Wish we could find out what it is. Forget Mercury - they don't make trucks and Marquis' smallest engine was a 400 for 77.
Right now let's start over as now you 've said it doesn't run at all and hasn't for a year!
Begs the question is it together at all or what right now?
Back to beginning please.
Is this now an all crank no start engine issue? Forget all the rest if still at it was when running need to find out what's missing that it doesn't run at all including can it do anything or what?


Basics: Does it crank, does it have spark, will it so much as react with starting fluid even if a carb isn't on it at all?!!!!
Gotta know what we are working with or this is getting impossible. Please don't even think Mercury and Truck in the same game as it would be a lost cause - that guess had to be wrong yet Mercury cars did sell 302 - 2V engines on others no trucks and IDK if all 302s of the vintage were counter rotating or not but think they were?


T
(edited out some confusion + a typo. Too confused already with what we have here at all)

You can't put a 4bbl on that 2bbl intake manifold. The only way to use a 4bbl is to change the intake manifold also.
You would probably still have to do some adapting with fuel lines and linkages.

They used to make an adaptor thing to do that which does nothing unless you think thru the whole show. The intake is designed for no many CFMs and that's it. Then on to heads, thru those and on out. Just bigger or more at the inlet doesn't mean engine can make use of it. Wasted money as no reason engineering wise a 1 barrel can't do what 2 or 4 could it's about how well you atomize how much fuel only and precisely , no more,
T