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1995 Mazda 626 Exhaust Tail Pipe 4 Cyl 2.0L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-4D0FFFE    42314  New

Qty:
$10.84
  • !Optional Parts for Split System
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bend Radius: 4.000
    • Class: W
    • Diámetro de entrada: 1.750
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Fitment: Direct Fit
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 1.750
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Mandrel Bent: N
    • Max Year Covered: 1997
    • Min Year Covered: 1993
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Mazda 626
    • Most Popular Year: 1995
    • Outlet Connection Type: Spout
    • Outlet Diameter: 1.875
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Overall Length: 13.500
    • Pipe Diameter: 1.875
    • Product Description: S Bend
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 21358
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1995 - Mazda 626 L 4 Cyl 2.0L - 1991
Walker
2006 Mazda B4000 Exhaust Tail Pipe 6 Cyl 4.0L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-420C9D3    54700  New

Qty:
$20.78
  • ; If welded assembly, replace all required parts.
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: B
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.000
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Inlet Outside Diameter: 2.000
    • Inlet Type: Pipe Connection
    • Largo: 43.750
    • Max Year Covered: 2011
    • Min Year Covered: 2004
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Ford Ranger
    • Most Popular Year: 2004
    • Outlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: 2.000
    • Outlet Type: Pipe Connection
    • Overall Length: 43.750
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Terminación: Aluminized
    • Total Part VIO: 541572
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Wheel FeedBase Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Mazda B4000 125.9 V 6 Cyl 4.0L - 4016
Walker
2000 Mazda B3000 Exhaust Tail Pipe 6 Cyl 3.0L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-21CA41D    55176  New

Qty:
$33.92
  • ; If welded assembly, replace all required parts.
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: A
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.000
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Inlet Outside Diameter: 2.000
    • Inlet Type: Pipe Connection
    • Largo: 48.000
    • Max Year Covered: 2004
    • Min Year Covered: 1998
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Ford Ranger
    • Most Popular Year: 2000
    • Outlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: 2.000
    • Outlet Type: Pipe Connection
    • Overall Length: 48.000
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Terminación: Aluminized
    • Total Part VIO: 805885
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Wheel FeedBase Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Mazda B3000 125.9 V 6 Cyl 3.0L 182 2986
Walker
1994 Mazda B4000 Exhaust Tail Pipe 6 Cyl 4.0L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-1C5866E    45374  New

Qty:
$28.72
  • ; If welded assembly, replace all required parts.
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: A
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.000
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Inlet Outside Diameter: 2.000
    • Inlet Type: Pipe Connection
    • Largo: 44.500
    • Max Year Covered: 1997
    • Min Year Covered: 1993
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Ford Ranger
    • Most Popular Year: 1994
    • Outlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: 2.000
    • Outlet Type: Pipe Connection
    • Overall Length: 44.500
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Terminación: Aluminized
    • Total Part VIO: 710167
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Wheel FeedBase Block Engine CID CC
1994 - Mazda B4000 114.0 V 6 Cyl 4.0L - 4016
Walker
2009 Mazda B2300 Exhaust Tail Pipe 4 Cyl 2.3L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-4ECDD9C    54682  New

Qty:
$20.48
  • ; If welded assembly, replace all required parts.
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: W
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.000
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Inlet Outside Diameter: 2.000
    • Inlet Type: Pipe Connection
    • Largo: 42.000
    • Max Year Covered: 2011
    • Min Year Covered: 2004
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Ford Ranger
    • Most Popular Year: 2004
    • Outlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: 2.000
    • Outlet Type: Pipe Connection
    • Overall Length: 42.000
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Terminación: Aluminized
    • Total Part VIO: 311825
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2009 - Mazda B2300 L 4 Cyl 2.3L 140 -
Walker
2012 Mazda 3 Exhaust Tail Pipe 4 Cyl 2.0L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-29CBDB1    53899  New

Qty:
$11.98
  • ; If welded assembly, replace all required parts.
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bend Radius: 3.500
    • Bending Radius: 3.500
    • Diámetro de entrada: 1.750
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Fitment: Direct Fit
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 1.750
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Inlet Outside Diameter: 1.750
    • Inlet Type: Pipe Connection
    • Largo: 24.200
    • Max Year Covered: 2013
    • Min Year Covered: 2010
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Mazda 3
    • Most Popular Year: 2010
    • Outlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Outlet Diameter: 1.750
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: 1.750
    • Outlet Type: Pipe Connection
    • Overall Length: 24.200
    • Pipe Diameter: 1.750
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Terminación: Aluminized
    • Total Part VIO: 498266
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Block Engine CID CC
2012 - Mazda 3 Sedan L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 2000
Walker
2010 Mazda 3 Exhaust Tail Pipe - Left 4 Cyl 2.5L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-29CBDB1    53899  New

Qty:
$11.98
  • ; If welded assembly, replace all required parts.
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bend Radius: 3.500
    • Bending Radius: 3.500
    • Diámetro de entrada: 1.750
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Fitment: Direct Fit
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 1.750
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Inlet Outside Diameter: 1.750
    • Inlet Type: Pipe Connection
    • Largo: 24.200
    • Max Year Covered: 2013
    • Min Year Covered: 2010
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Mazda 3
    • Most Popular Year: 2010
    • Outlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Outlet Diameter: 1.750
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: 1.750
    • Outlet Type: Pipe Connection
    • Overall Length: 24.200
    • Pipe Diameter: 1.750
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Terminación: Aluminized
    • Total Part VIO: 498266
Brand: Walker
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Position Block Engine CID CC
2010 - Mazda 3 Sedan Left L 4 Cyl 2.5L 152 2488

Latest Mazda Repair and Tail Pipe Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2003 mazda 6 starting problems

Showing 2 out of 23 Posts | Show 21 Hidden Posts
Question From izzy1973 on 2003 mazda 6 starting problems

My son's 2003 mazda6 4 cylinder with over130,000 miles on it would not start one very cold morning. He never had problems with it starting before. I went out and tried starting for awhile to no avail. I brought the battery inside, charged it and took it to auto parts to have it checked,all ok. The car was turning over good and at times seemed like it would start but it would bog down. Then all of the sudden it was turnining over very slugish. I put the battery in my car to see if battery was dead, but battery was fine.please help any input will be greatly appreciated

Response From DanD

Hopefully you haven't cranked the starter motor to death; which might be the case for the sluggish turning now?
If by chance on your next attempt to start the car and it's cranking somewhat normally. Get your foot planted to the floor on the accelerator peddle.
The engine might be flooded due to the cold.
If by chance the engine does fire; do not over rev the engine but also do not let it go to idle either. In other words play with the throttle until the engine stabilizes.
If by chance this does get the engine to start: i would suggest having the oil changed ASAP.
The motor oil is like saturated in gasoline.

Dan.

Response From izzy1973

Yeah smoked starter,replaced it but now car turns over and kinda wants to start but bogs down. My son said he took it to auto part store and they told him his o2 sensor or catalytic converter was setting off his check engine light. But it had been working up until that day it got really cold. Temps were in the -20s. I don't know what could of happened. ANY IDEAS, HELP, PLEASE.

Response From DanD

Going on the assumption that the engine is severely flooded; I would get a set of spark plugs for it and attempt replacing them.
If plugs become saturated in fuel they will never fire properly.
Once all of the spark plugs are removed; I would fully open the throttle (foot to the floor) and crank the engine for 20 - 30 seconds. This should air out the cylinders. Install the new plugs and attempt starting the engine normally. If it doesn't fire and run or fires and stalls. Again get your foot to the floor and try again to start. If it fires do not let the engine over rev but play with the throttle until the engine stabilizes.

Again this is assuming the engine is flooded and nothing else is stopping it from running.
If it does start drive directly to a lube shop and have the oil changed.

Dan.

Response From izzy1973

Ok I replaced plugs already. Should I just clean them and try what you suggested, I shouln't have to get new ones right? A friend suggested that it might be the crank position sensor, but I don't think it would go out just because of the cold. I also tried disconnecting the fuel line from the injectors and when I crank the engine it just turns over but when I re connect it it tries to start, I don't know if that tells you anything. I'll try what you suggested and see what happens, i'll try it tomorrow after it warms up a little. Thank you very much for input, I really appreciated.

Response From DanD

You could try drying them (if the engine is flooded); but like I said before, sometimes a washed out spark plug will never fire correctly.

Dan.

Response From izzy1973

Well just tried what you suggested, and no luck. I hate to buy more plugs and have it do the same. I removed the injector bank and they all fire at same time first then randomly for a bit, then all at same time again then random again is that normal? Auto parts said since o2 sensor was setting of check engine light, it might be a pluged converter. He suggested taking of o2 sensor,which we did but still same thing. I don't know what else to do.

Response From GC

Check out this thread
http://autoforums.carjunky.com/Automotive_Repair_C1/General_Discussions_F5/IF_YOUR_STARTER_CRANKS_THE_ENGINE_BUT_IT_WILL_NOT_START_P75655/

Based on what you have described, I would lean towards fuel issue. Confirm you have spark and injector pulse, put a fuel pressure gauge on it and post results here. Dont have data program on my home laptop so cant tell you pressure spec or what adapter needed for gauge, but can in a.m.

Response From izzy1973

Thank you. I was just about to order crank position sensor but will hold off and check fuel pressure tomorrow. They should be able to give me the specs at auto parts store. Do you think if it was a fuel issue the plugs would be fouled every time. I have taken them off often to dry them and clean them. The same thing happens every time I was leaning towards spark or timing. But I will check fuel pressure. Thanks again to EVERYBODY.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Note on gas soaked plugs: Some will respond if they've been badly soaked to being heated up to glowing - plain propane torch. Air dry and clean isn't it. They can accept spark but it seeks ground thru the soaked porcelain. That and under compression spark will as always seek the path of least residence and under compression it wants to even more than make the desired jump of spark, T

Response From Hammer Time

I've used that trick before sometimes but it's tricky. There's a fine line between getting enough heat to clean it and damaging the plug.

Response From izzy1973

Fuel pressure great, compression good, spark is good. Going to take a look at crank sensor,hopefully there something throwing it off. Otherwise I'm out of ideas, does anybody have any other ideas, ANYTHING!!!!!!

Response From Hammer Time

If the spark is good, there is no pint looking at the crank sensor.
What about injector pulse?

Response From izzy1973

I took the injector bank off and cranked engine and there is fuel spraying out but I guess I don't know if that's what you mean by pulse. I did notice that the CEL blinks 8 times after about 5 seconds of having the key turned to the on position and thet"traction control off"light stays on too. Any ideas what that means?

Response From Hammer Time

You have spark and you have fuel. The only thing left is compression?

Are the plugs getting wet or discolored?

Response From izzy1973

Put compression gage on all four cylinders are from 130 to 150 psi. I told the auto parts guys what it was reading and they said that was still good compression. What do you think? And yes the spark plugs are wet and a bit on the grey side, going to put new wires and plugs in tomorrow, it's been pretty cold here, so calling it a day. Thanks for the input guys.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

You may have spark and fuel but perhaps fuel enough to instantly douse/flood out. Check oil now and see if it smells. Injectors should deliver by a pulse and just right for whatever conditions.


I believe pedal to floor they quit for clearing flooding issues. If that worked it might just blow black out tail pipe and that's the issue to chase down,


T

Response From izzy1973

Took throttle body off and cleaned it. Some pressure in coolant lines going into the throttle body. Replaced throttle body and according to some online guys you can reset pcm by pressing and holding the odometer trip reset down then turning key to ON until odometer reads TEST,holding it down until it disappears. I then cranked engine and it fired right up,I moved the car and turned it off and after awhile I tried again and same thing all over again and fuel pump for some reason keeps shuting down. Sometimes I go out and try to start the car and it will be working and sometimes no, so will unhook battery and it sometimes kicks in. This is something new that just started happening.

Response From GC

Can you post fuel pressure #s? How did you check spark? Any chance at getting the code #s (not descriptions) posted? If you can access history codes too... Battery was disconnected, so might be gone now.

Response From izzy1973

Fuel pressure around 58 or59 psi right on the money for the specs. According to auto parts guy. Tried code reader and all it came up with was throttle body codes but the auto parts said that happened when we disconnected the fuel injectors. Same thing with air filter intake sensor. Other than that just that check engine light flashing 8 times and the light for the "traction control off" light stays on while key is on position. I just replaced coil and plugs, cranked engine and now I can't hear the fuel pump. Yeah took fuel line off and no fuel WTF!!!!!!!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I reserve that mostly for damn chain saw that is a total PITA to start! Got yelled at bad now ages ago by boss watching me do that instead of tossing plugs as it wasted time and plugs were cheap but it was the problem. Sure could wreck plugs doing that too especially more high tech one than a chainsaw,

T

Response From Hammer Time

There is no way to clean them unless you have a sand blaster. The fuel soaks into the porcelain.

Response From kev2

Not starting in cold weather - MAINTENANCE MAINTENANCE the systems must all be performing at optimum levels... the fuel pressure, the coolant sensors, the ignition system, and as you mentioned the battery. Cables clean tight corrosion free.

I would check the plugs - they nay have fouled during the no start, other items such as fuel pressure- and all so important for computer controlled engines is the engine coolant sensor.

Engine oil loss and smoking out of the tailpipe

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From oddgca on Engine oil loss and smoking out of the tailpipe

2006
Mazda
Protoge
2 l ES
279912

A lot of black smoke comes out of the tail pipe.
Engine oil is lost.
I tried to get a read out with my OBD2 Car reader, but no fault code is noted.
Misfire Monitor, Fuel System Monitor, Comprohensive Component Monitor are steady.
Catalyst Monitor, Evaporative System Monitor, Oxygen Sensor Monitor, Oxygen Sensor Heater Monitor and Exhaust Gas Recirculating Monitor are flashing during the testing.
Could it be, that the OBD2 does not work on the Mazda. It works well no my 97 Sable and 2000 Taurus.
Any of your comments would be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Otto Doering

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

How much oil did it lose? You might want to find out where the oil is going or is leaking from.

Black smoke usually means the engine is burning too much fuel. You need to think of things that would make an engine run rich. You really need scan tool data to see how the engine computer is controlling fuel and what the inputs look like.

Has there been any recent work done before this happened?

I can't figure out whats wrong with my car... please hlep :(

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From mineralgirlzmama on I can't figure out whats wrong with my car... please hlep :(


Okay so yesterday I was driving home and the car's heat valve went all the way up to hot in a matter of seconds, What looked like white smoke was coming out from under the hood ( pretty sure it was steam ) so I pulled over and noticed my husband forgot to put oil in the car and there was no water or colent (sorry can't spell), like antifreeze. So I put oil, water, and antifreeze all in the car and let it cool down for about an hour. The car started fine and the heat valve was in the middle. I drove a couple blocks and the heat valve shot right back up to hot. I did this a couple times before I finally got a ride home. We went to get the car this morning and it drove fine and wasn't getting hot until after maybe 15min. of driving it. I noticed that the heat valve only goes up when your driving or have your foot of the gas. like if it was going up and I stopped at a stop light it would stop going up. But when it started going up it shot up within a matter of seconds. Then my husband noticed what looks like white smoke coming out of the tail pipe. Also yesterday when it started smoking (if that's what it was) It smelt like burnt antifreeze. I'm sorry this is so long but this is really frustrating! Please help. Thank you so much for taking the time to read this.

Kayla

oh I forgot this

Year of vehicle 1999
Make of vehicle Mazda
Model of vehicle Miata
Engine size 1.8

Response From chickenhouse Top Rated Answer

Kayla, I'm sorry to report that it sounds like major engine damage has occured. Running the engine with no coolant or oil has probly blown a head gasket at least. You may need to pressurize the cooling system to see where the coolant is leaking causing the steam that you see. This car will have to be diagnosed by a reputable repair shop to evaulate the extent of damages. Good luck to you.

1987 B2000 2.0 engine - emission problems?

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From crojack on 1987 B2000 2.0 engine - emission problems?

Hi everyone, thanks for the great forum and hope you can help.
I recently got this Mazda truck and for the most part it's a great little truck. The issue I'm having is this.

On the front of the air cleaner, there are three hoses going into a manifold thing which contains three reed valves respectively.
Not long after I got the truck I noticed the middle hose was not connected to the manifold, and did not have a clamp on it.
I bought a hose clamp, slid the hose onto the spigot coming off the manifold and tightened down the hose clamp, easy peasy.
A few days or so after that, I looked under the hood again and noticed that there was a big hole blown in the same hose, the middle one. Weird, I thought, but must just be an old hose.
Tracked down a new hose and installed.
Immediately the truck ran with very little power and a pretty loud whirring noise was coming from under the hood. So, after a few days of head scratching I unhooked the hose and the truck regained power and no more whirring noise and the wonderful exhaust smell started to fill up the cabin again.

So, my question is, what is stopped up in the engine/exhaust system to cause this problem? Do you think it;s in the manifold thing, or I was also told that it could be a clogged up cat convertor.
Any ideas, even where to start? I bought a nice Clymer for it so I do have diagrams.

Also, I talked to a shop near my work that had lots of good reviews, but he said he only ahd one guy that worked on old carb engines and the emissions can be a pain, etc. etc. which just sounded like more and more dollar signs to me.

Thanks in advance!

Response From Hammer Time

"Manifold thing" doesn't tell us too much. You're going to either have to post a picture or explain it much better.

Response From Discretesignals

He/she is probably meaning the pulse air injection reaction system.

If you have a restriction in the exhaust, it is going to melt the hoses going to the reed valve assembly on the air cleaner and probably bake the reed valve too. It's designed to pull fresh air (oxygen) from the air cleaner into the exhaust stream for the catalytic converter. The natural pulses in the exhaust manifold create a vacuum. If you have a restriction in the exhaust, the hot exhaust gasses are going to back up and cook the air injection hoses and valves.

Response From crojack

It's a he, haha.

This is good info, I wasn't sure if the reed valve assembly brought un-burnt gases back from the exhaust and into the engine as some sort of emissions reclamation system, or if it sent fresh air down into the exhaust.

It sounds like the path of air should go from the air cleaner, through the reed valve assembly, through the hoses, and into the exhaust system?

So, the cat could be clogged up and sending exhaust gases back up through the tube? I guess I need to pull the cat and see if that is it? Is there anything else back there that could be clogged up?



The manifold thing is seen in the top of the pic, hooked onto the air cleaner near the "13-104G" I couldn't find a pic of the hose routing.


Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

It sounds like the path of air should go from the air cleaner, through the reed valve assembly, through the hoses, and into the exhaust system? That's correct.

So, the cat could be clogged up and sending exhaust gases back up through the tube? I guess I need to pull the cat and see if that is it? Is there anything else back there that could be clogged up? Anything in the exhaust causing a restriction from a clogged cat, collapsed muffler, or potato in the tail pipe can cause exhaust gasses to burn up the pulse air injection reaction system.