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Bosal
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Bosal Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • Kia Sedona 02-03
  • Bosal Replacement Exhaust Tail Pipe
Brand: Bosal
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Kia Sedona V 6 Cyl 3.5L - 3497
Bosal
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Bosal Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • 95-00 KIA SPORTAGE
  • Bosal Replacement Exhaust Tail Pipe
Brand: Bosal
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2002 - Kia Sportage L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 1998
Walker
1995 Kia Sportage Exhaust Tail Pipe 4 Cyl 2.0L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-21B4147    54279  New

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Walker Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • Requires 35452
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: A
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Inlet Connection Type: 2 Bolt Welded Flange
    • Max Year Covered: 2002
    • Min Year Covered: 1995
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Kia Sportage
    • Most Popular Year: 2002
    • Outlet Connection Type: Spout
    • Overall Length: 40.500
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 70330
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Cylinder Head Type Block Engine CID CC
1995 - Kia Sportage DOHC L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 1998

Latest Kia Repair and Tail Pipe Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

kia sedona rear heater

Showing 2 out of 18 Posts | Show 16 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on kia sedona rear heater

i just had the rear lines replaced do to them rotting out, now the rear heater does not work i have had it back two the shop they told me i had an air blockage, they told me it was fixed but nope. i have tried to fix it myself twice, both times by letting the van run with the rad cap off, after a while a do have heat ibn the back but when i replace the rad cap it starts to blow cold again, any thoghjts on this?
Thanks in advance

Response From Guest

How old is your Kia van? We just had to have our lines replaced because they rotted out. Our van is a 2002. I am wondering if this is a common problem. Kia told us no but the dealership had the parts in stock to fix it. NOt something they should typically stock if it is not a common problem.

Response From Guest

I had the same problem the dealer wants to charge me 405.00 to replace and their is a tech doc out there for dealers on this issue

Response From Guest

hi have read the above coments and just replaced my heater pipes so i thought i would raise the front and yes its cleared the air out of the system no problem, i will also concour that the pipes are a common fault and the hand break linkage which i replaced for £14 pounds due to no grease on it at service. this i find is a common fault at services yes having an eye for detail. i find a smaller garage now more reliable than the dealer

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Martin - old thread and still valid issues. Some of this could be prevented by asking for items to be greases like cables and the corrosion-likely spots on fittings, lines of all kinds. Include hood latch the the mechanisms, trunk (boot) door lock and hinges all thru the vehicle.

Some of that is going to be itemized as a routine and once a year is enough for some things. There's a lot to be said for local shops and the personal touches for some common sense maintenance.

I really like aerosol grease, real oil squirt cans and WD-40 by brand (others may be just as good) for areas that might get on paint or cake up too much grease but it's less likely to make permanent damage, grease up clothing on latches etc.

The purging problems vary one vehicle to another. There is now a machine that can apply vacuum to an entire cooling system which I don't own and most won't but speeds up this process for shops as so many are a pill and once vacuum achieved you switch to add just coolant back which will find more hiding places that just gravity. Cooling systems are NOT meant to be under a full vacuum as rubber hoses would collapse in most so it would just be a slight vacuum and advantage. I think the day will come those will be more affordable and or available for rent,

T

Response From Guest

It's a very common problem also with the ac line under the van as well, i am in the mist of have a bleeder valve installed in the lines to get rid of this air in the system as well.

Response From Guest

I just had the problem with my 2004 Kia van. After filling the system, the rear heater core / pipe assemblies can be bled of air by temporarily clamping off either FRONT heater core connection while raising the engine speed to approximately 2500 RPM for about one minute.

Response From Guest

.
Just a thought here..
Is there anywhere in the cooling system with a bleeder to vent out air after the system has been opened?
I don't know Kia's at all but many GM vehicles have this available and as the car heats up the bleeder can be cracked open with a screwdriver and allow trapped air to vent out thus relieving the system of air leaving only coolant as intended. The bleeder is often near where the thermostat is.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Guest mentioned it was a 2002,

T

Response From Guest

sorry it's a 2002 v6 3.5 litre engine

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Probably does have air in it but that should be the shop's problem to purge out. I might hoist up the front pretty high and run it so air purges to the front and perhaps pinch off the front heater a bit to allow more flow thru the rear core??

T

Response From Guest Top Rated Answer

I took this van back to the dealer today to try to get rid of the air, only to have them tell me after 20 mins that they think my head gasket is gone, thats why i have air in my system. the is no antifreeze in the oil and no smoke coming out of the tail pipe, temp on van runs right were it always has. Can they be right? i don't feel like spending 1200 dollars (on a i think thats the problem) Man i hate Dealers.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Don't blame "dealers" just because they are but rather the way any shop operates on any problem and the amount of time allowed to really get a job done or even diagnosed. 20 minutes is hardly enough time to be reasonably sure about a head gasket with minimal evidence that you pointed out.

A head gasket is sealing everything from everything else and COULD leak in any direction between anything it's sealing.

For this I would diag with a pressure test, fill and purge cooling system, run a while and if air shows up in cooling system repeatedly then the diagnosis is by preponderance (sp?) of evidence.

With your symptoms and the lack of classic head gasket failures I would check to see if the cooling system built up pressure from ZERO faster than just heat expansion of coolant by either a pressure tester or with lots of experience just feeling an upper radiator hose can tell this.

You said you had it behaving when running without pressure and that's a clue! The diagnosis shouldn't be taken so lightly. It's a lot of money and there's room for being wrong with the best of testing as sometimes it can be a flaw or problem with head or block itself and not just the gasket.

Where do you want to go with this?

T

Response From Guest

Thanks for the reply Tom, i ahve it going in for a pressure test to be sure. do you have ant tricks to really make sure the air is out of the rear heater core, if i was sure there was no air back there i feel a little bit better about putting out another thousand dollars on this van Thanks in advance.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Obviously this one is a pest. I might separate the rear heater and bleed out just the front and engine and at least get this thing stable ruling out any head gasket causing this. At your first post you indicated this all started with just replacing the rear hoses so I don't know why it's all of a sudden a head gasket in the picture at all.

I also don't really know why it worked for you with the cap off.

Ok: With this much fuss I'd try to bleed out the back with the two hoses off and just pour coolant thru till it came out the return hose - plug that off sealed for hook up back to the system. So if front can be ok and back now known it would be fast work to hook it all up without letting more air in or just minimal.

For a tough one I might jack up the vehicle as said before with the radiator cap as high up as reasonable to just let air rise to the top. It's only going to purge out air on its own when the thermostat is open. That can be done by warming up the whole engine to operating temp and shut if off and wait like 2-3 minutes. Heat should rise and unseen the thermostat is likely wide open with the hot coolant rising at it when waterpump is not circulating the whole mix. That's a great moment to start it up and the air about has to burp out to rad and to recovery tank.

That and when close to fully purged just driving on a windy road shifting the gravity on the vehicle back and forth can persuade some bubbles to come out of hiding.

It can take as long for a shop to get this right as it did to replace a hose(s) or something and they don't like spending the time on it. I simply up and left two shops I worked at because they didn't like me spending time at the end of a job to really test it out. Who the heck wins if a ticked off customer is back the next day?? They look bad, tech looks bad as you know. I had to just up and open up for myself and do things my way. There is equipment to speed this up that I've never owned and would hope a dealership would have it as lots of vehicles are fussy like this.

I suggest talking to the tech that will handle this for you not just the white coat at the desk. This shouldn't be that big of a deal!

T

Response From Guest

I'll keep you posted Thanks Tom.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

This below was posted to help with understanding the problems encountered with air in the cooling system. It migh be of interest to take peek. We are working on writing up something like this for re-use as it takes a lot of work to write these one at a time,
T


Ok: Let me give this a shot at explaining. I spent the day thinking of how I could write something about this that could easily explain this problem and the solutions so it could be referred to for many as this is a common problem. There are some tricks for exact makes and models but basically the same thing.

* Think of the cooling system as two areas - engine side and radiator side. About always a thermostat is at the highest point between them and shuts when cold and gradually opens when it approaches the set temp then fully open to circulate the coolant to radiator and return the cooled, coolant to the engine.

* The T-stat is capable of being somewhat air tight when cold/closed. When coolant is drained or lowered on purpose or from a leak it will lower the level in the engine side and the radiator side. When filled again at the radiator side the coolant fills what it can but can't push the air on top of remaining coolant in engine back thru the T-stat so it's locked in there till the thermostat opens and the air (naturally at the top) goes out to radiator, liquid coolant should return thru the lower radiator hose to the engine and you would notice the drop in coolant level at the radiator - a good time to fill again BUT.......... vehicles without a radiator cap on the radiator itself just don't manage to get that air out to where you would fill it at the pressure recovery tank so you have to be assertive with them.

!! I'm winging it here so bear with me. The idea is getting the air out of the locked engine side to where you can replace it with coolant of the side you are supposed to be able to add directly to, to replace air with coolant. By itelf it would purge air out to recovery and return just liquid... note the tank has a little hose at the bottom that allows coolant flow to and from the radiator. Just that smaller hose is slow to accomplish this without intervention when system has been drained.

It's hard with these to just let the engine warm up enough to have the T-stat open and stay there long enough to on the difficult ones you would let air out of the engine side before the thermostat with a bleeder if equipped or taking a hose off on that side as high up as possible and fill it there and re-attach. When you have most air out just normal driving around will get any remaining insignificant air out to that recovery tank a little at a time over the cycles of warm and cold - expansion/contraction of the coolant.

Warning: When dealing with a cooling system don't open up when under pressure. You can feel that there is pressure fairly easily at an upper radiator hose - use a rag and don't get burned. Water/coolant is a liquid at temps below 212F (rough ave) and a vapor above that with no pressure on it. Water/coolant will remain a liquid at about 3 extra degrees per lb of pressure. If that pressure is released it can and will flash to a vapor and can cause serious injury! Apply common sense folks.

Now a snag with assorted ways the heater operates. When filling and testing the heater should be on full temp request and low fan. Feel for the heat. That proves that liquid coolant is there as even hot air going thru a heater core won't exhange much heat. Some heaters have a constant flow of coolant and adjust the temp desired by controlling flow of the coolant itself or use a diverter door to blend heated and ambient air temp to deliver disired air temp to cabin. This will vary in assorted vehicles.
NOTE: Some vehicles use the heater/core - coolant flow as part of the by-pass system which allows the water pump to maintain even temps inside the engine's coolant. This is necessary so that the thermostat gets the real overall engine temp or it would fluctuate and cause problems of its own.

Note again: This is with the components of the cooling system all in good shape and able to work properly. Debris in cooling system, leaks, head gasket problems, or defects of assorted kinds can and will complicate the success of purging air out of a cooling system.


Ask away as needed. I'll try or others please jump in and edit this as needed. This is a common problem. Techs and DIYers alike have to deal with this frequently,

Hope that helped for now..........

Tom Greenleaf, 2-3-2008

Response From Guest

Thanks for the replay Tom, i am going to take it back to the dealer 1 more time, if they can t get it i will try your suggestion myself. I have no faith in this Kia dealer the van is not a bad veichle but the service is????????????????. Thanks again.

Coolant disappearing but no visible leak, engine overheating

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From mduff on Coolant disappearing but no visible leak, engine overheating

I have a 2003 Kia Sedona. It's been working fine until today when driving home we noticed the heater blowing cold air in the rear of the van, then the engine temp started to redline. We pulled over and turned off the car for a few minutes. When starting up again, noticed the engine was running loud but the temp. gauge went back to normal. Then heat stopped working completely and air conditioning fan and light would not turn off. After driving a few minutes the gauge stared to redline again. The air turned off and the gauge came down a little but not much. When we arrived home (which was only 5-6 minutes after this started happening), we checked the coolant levels (even though we check and fill these regularly and had just done so a couple of weeks ago) and noticed the engine coolant is very low. Strange, because it was just done and we haven't noticed any leaks. Topped up the coolant and started up the van again, same things happening and the coolant disappeared by 1/4...no visible leaks anywhere! Radiator is cool, no smoke, no discharge anywhere....HELP! My warranty just ran out last month, of course!

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

With that much water/coolant disappearing, there almost has to be an external leak somewhere. Hopefully, it's not an internal leak. Check the oil for moisture. That much coolant would make the oil look like a chocolate milkshake.
If it is going through the head gasket, out through the exhaust, you surely would have noticed a huge cloud of steam/smoke coming from the tail pipe. When you mentioned that the coolant dropped 1/4 after filling it, sounds like just air being worked from engine. After checking the above, and every thing is okay, get the radiator full and let it run up to operating temp, watching the temp so as not to let it overheat. You may have a stuck, or at least, sticky thermostat. The electric cooling fan may not come on until the engine temp reaches 230F. You can put the heater control into the A/C mode which should turn the fan on if your temp starts getting out of control. Once up to operating temp, radiator full, everything looking good, put the raditor cap back on. Shut the engine off and start looking for leaks. A weak radiator cap can allow coolant to prematurely go into the coolant overflow reservoir causing it to overfill and out onto the ground. When the engine cools, it pulls the coolant out of the reservoir back into the radiator. Eventually, you run out of coolant if this happens too many times. Just food for thought.

2000 Kia Sephia - Leak Behind/Under Intake Manifold

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From JamesRyann on 2000 Kia Sephia - Leak Behind/Under Intake Manifold

I'm a "redneck geek" of sorts, just getting off my first major repair work on my car (so just knowledgeable to be stupidly and incredibly dangerous), and I've got a leak that I can't identify (either location or type of fluid).

2000 Kia Sephia
1.8L DOHC 16V
185,000 miles

Background:
I had to take the cylinder head off in order to drill out (yes, *drill out*) a broken spark plug that had apparently welded itself to the cylinder head and would not budge using an "easy out." (Fun, very exciting issue: breaking tools, four-foot breaker bar, etc., but not the subject of this post . . . .) Anyway, I tore everything down to the engine block (intake and exhaust manifolds, power steering pump, alternator, and even the pre-cat just for fun), fixed the spark plug issue (drilled out, rethreaded, and installed a spark plug helicoil), resurfaced the cylinder head (probably would have been fine, as it was still within spec, but I did it anyway, just to be safe, and because it was already off), cleaned all mating surfaces, installed new gaskets and cylinder head bolts (properly torqued to Chilton's specs), and put everything back together. After refilling and double-checking all the fluids, I performed a dry compression test on the cylinders (175, 170, 170, 155 psi 1-4 respectively), installed the spark plugs, and took her for a test drive. She drives nicely.

Problem:
She sounds and feels like she's new until she gets up to operating temperature, then I get a rough idle (that increases in "roughness" the longer she's driven) kind of a like a slowly pulsating shimmy-shake about once a second or so. Never happens until she's up to temperature though, and as long as we're moving, she still feels and sounds beautiful. After we stop, she shows a pretty severe leak of something from somewhere (apparently behind or under the intake manifold). It doesn't smell like fuel, doesn't feel or smell like oil, doesn't look or smell like coolant, it gets all over the underside of the car, all the way back to about two feet before the tail pipe, all over the passenger side of the firewall, and extends into the passenger side wheel assembly, but everything left (driver's side) of the intake manifold is bone dry. Plus, it never happens if she's driven only a short distance where she doesn't get up to operating temperature, and after she's cooled down, she won't keep leaking. To me, in all of my un-edumacted lack of expertise, it seems like power steering fluid.

I'm not finding any coolant in the oil, oil in the coolant, or a drop in oil or coolant levels. I am noticing a *small* drop in my power steering fluid, more so than might be reasonably explained by a cooling of the engine, but not necessarily enough to correspond to the amount of fluid that's leaking out. It's not condensation, as it doesn't evaporate, and it's still clearly visible as a nice dark shiny liquid all over the underside of the car and inside the engine compartment (as previously described) after she's been sitting overnight. I'm also finding traces of fluid (not a lot) on the alternator/water pump V-belt, but none on either the AC/power steering pump V-belt or the timing belt. I replaced the crush washers on the high-pressure power steering pump banjo fitting, and rechecked all of the hoses that I could identify to make sure they were properly clamped. I'm not finding any indication of leakage from any hoses or on the visible mating surface seams of the cylinder head with engine block or manifolds. In other words, I cannot yet pinpoint a specific location from which anything is leaking.

One final thought . . . . I don't think she's leaking while I'm actually driving. I think she starts leaking after I've shut the engine off, as after she's been sitting for 10 seconds or so (maybe a little longer, but not much), she'll start steaming (from what I believe is the leaking fluid contacting the hot engine surfaces), and the steaming will significantly increase for about 60 seconds, and then subside, but she doesn't steam at all while I'm driving or idling.

I'm somewhat at a loss (though that loss may be more related to my lack of expertise than an easily identifiable problem).

Thanks for your thoughts!

Response From Discretesignals

We really can't tell you what is leaking because we are not there to see it. First you need to determine what kind of fluid it is. If it is all over the back of the engine, you need to clean it off. Then get it up on a rack and let the engine run while you watch to see where the leak is originating from.

As for the drive-ability issue, is the check engine light on? Might need to look at some scan data while the engine is idling rough to grasp an idea where to look for the issue.

Response From JamesRyann Top Rated Answer

That's part of my problem. When I'm looking at it while it's running, I see no active leak. All I see is the fact that the liquid's there. I've cleaned it off to see if I can tell where it's coming from, and when I go to check it again, it's just kind of magically returned, again with no indication that I can see as to its source.

Really, I think that checking, cleaning, and rechecking may be the only option I have, unless you possibly could guess at some potential sources that might make sense, and then I could specifically check those more closely.

Regardless, I'll be checking it again tonight when I get home.

As for the check engine light, no, it's not lit. But I do have an OBD scanner, and it comes up clear anyway (if for some reason the check engine light just wasn't working for whatever reason). However, I haven't actually checked the running data, so that's something I'll definitely check tonight as well.