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Walker
2008 Infiniti QX56 Exhaust Tail Pipe 8 Cyl 5.6L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-1668889    54650  New

Qty:
$39.81
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: C
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Inlet Connection Type: 2 Bolt Welded Flange
    • Inlet Type: 2 Bolt Welded Flange
    • Largo: 47.250
    • Max Year Covered: 2015
    • Min Year Covered: 2004
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Nissan Titan
    • Most Popular Year: 2008
    • Outlet Connection Type: Spout
    • Outlet Type: Spout
    • Overall Length: 47.250
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Terminación: Aluminized
    • Total Part VIO: 487849
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2008 - Infiniti QX56 V 8 Cyl 5.6L - 5552
Walker
2005 Infiniti QX56 Exhaust Tail Pipe 8 Cyl 5.6L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-06514B0    55364  New

Qty:
$47.05
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: B
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Inlet Connection Type: 2 Bolt Welded Flange
    • Inlet Type: 2 Bolt Welded Flange
    • Largo: 51.625
    • Max Year Covered: 2006
    • Min Year Covered: 2004
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Nissan Titan
    • Most Popular Year: 2004
    • Outlet Connection Type: Spout
    • Outlet Type: Spout
    • Overall Length: 51.625
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Terminación: Aluminized
    • Total Part VIO: 239451
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Infiniti QX56 V 8 Cyl 5.6L - 5552
Bosal
Qty:
$48.13
Bosal Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • Bosal Replacement Exhaust Tail Pipe
Brand: Bosal
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Infiniti QX56 V 8 Cyl 5.6L - 5552
Bosal
Qty:
$74.57
Bosal Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • ; with Chrome Tip
  • Bosal Replacement Exhaust Tail Pipe
Brand: Bosal
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2010 - Infiniti QX56 V 8 Cyl 5.6L - 5552
Bosal
Qty:
$56.26
Bosal Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • ; without Chrome Tip
  • Bosal Replacement Exhaust Tail Pipe
Brand: Bosal
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2010 - Infiniti QX56 V 8 Cyl 5.6L - 5552

Latest Infiniti Repair and Tail Pipe Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

​Buzzing noise when push the accelerator and when the key is in "ON" position

Showing 6 out of 6 Posts
Question From alexjones on ​Buzzing noise when push the accelerator and when the key is in "ON" position

Hello all,
I have 1993 Infiniti G20 : 215,000 miles.
the car was running very bad. shaking hard when driving, for starting the car I had to push the gas pedal while cranking so the car will start and sometime when I was getting to a complete stop ( on red traffic light) I had to change the gear to Park to prevent the car from turning off. anyway, I found out one of the injectors is bad ( the resistance was 114 {normal is about 10-14})and was not clicking. so I took of the fuel rail and tested the injectors by connecting a 9V battery . 3 of them shoot out gas but that one broken one didnt do anything. so I put everything back together till I get the replacement injector, and now when the key is in ON position and as I push the gas pedal just a little bit a Buzzing noise comes out from underneath the hood ,I couldnt pin point where it is yet. also now I am having very difficulty to start the car. feels like it is out of gas. and when car starts after couple of pumping the gas pedal while starting , giant white smoke comes out of the tail pipe and strong gas smell .

I would appreciate any help.

Thanks
Alex

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sport - Pumping a fuel injected engine does nothing but exercise your foot unless to the floor to clear a flooded engine.


Buzzing noise - no clue yet for you. The white cloud out tail pipe isn't a good sign as you should know. Not much other than a blown head gasket or crack that allows coolant to get in can do that.


I suggest doing a compression test to see if this engine has some totally out of spec readings. It's old enough with some miles to be considered how far you want to go with it IMO,


T

Response From alexjones


Sport - Pumping a fuel injected engine does nothing but exercise your foot unless to the floor to clear a flooded engine.


Buzzing noise - no clue yet for you. The white cloud out tail pipe isn't a good sign as you should know. Not much other than a blown head gasket or crack that allows coolant to get in can do that.


I suggest doing a compression test to see if this engine has some totally out of spec readings. It's old enough with some miles to be considered how far you want to go with it IMO,


T
Thank you for your reply T , the white smoke goes away as soon as the car runs for a few seconds. and I am assuming it is because the gas pedal pumping but I dont know. as you said it is an old car I paid $1000 for it and I hate to spend couple of thousand to fix everything, I just wanted to fix it to run almost normal so I can sell instead of sending it to junk yard.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

The "white" smoke may have an odor and also might go away after start up and stay gone.


Would think you'd be noticing loss of coolant if it's done that a while. The rest is I think this engine is all confused as it's relying on normal compression and normal intake manifold vacuum for lots of operating functions even in 1993. Try for codes for an area of a problem noted but the white smoke is the killer.


If you've disconnected the battery or it's gone totally dead anytime recently I'm near sure this car will forget how to hold a normal idle having lost memory that over time and use covers the changes of slowly getting dirty in throttle body and other things like plain load on engine from accessories or just sitting in drive vs a neutral.


Pull plugs at least and look for maybe one only or more that is too clean or worse plain wet with coolant. Pressure test could find it and could (if bad enough) fill a cylinder with coolant and lock engine?


There's a list of maybe things but not a whole long list on why it could blow that white smoke. Check oil for contamination too.


Fuel injectors can if before you found a bad one have been flooding the thing washing lube of that cylinder badly and you'd find it way off now.


Just check easy stuff as I do think you've got some bucks ahead that might be more than you would want to spend on this exact car. It's worth bucks (for metals if nothing else) as scrap priced local to you.


Miles alone don't matter way too much for a very well cared for car/engine but time counts and stupid stuff like even the seats lose it, knobs and handles only take so much and get annoying - your car, your call but find out what you can before tossing bucks at it,


T

Response From alexjones

Thank you very much Tom for taking your time and explain it to me. you are right I dont want to start spending on something that might or might not work.
I will do the check list you said. the one good thing this car had when I baught it was the full repair service manual and that is what I had been using to fix stuff on it .
The book probably worth more than the car itself now :)

Response From Tom Greenleaf

It's not over yet just need to find out where you stand. Great that you have manuals and no doubt worth something. Sorry if I'm stuck right at the "white smoke" but it's the most important thing to know why. You did say it smelled like fuel which would be dark and sooty unburned fuel. If extreme enough probably soil a cloth for a close look.


It doesn't take much coolant to make a cloud of smoke nor oil. It may be confused with the standard color of what you see and going away once finally running can happen.


OK - Consuming some oil may not mean too much by some miles but shouldn't really be seen and always note how long or miles it takes for oil consumption. Coolant really shouldn't use any but rather just expand with heat and contract with cooling off at close to marked levels of tank AND remain always full at radiator.


Spark plugs are very telling of what is going on inside cylinders. Even if older you look for them to be the same unless clearly ONE cylinder shows lots different from others.


Try to do as much diagnosing as possible while it's intact and running as that ends if you have things all apart.


Stinks but could take a while. If running poorly you risk the cat converter(s) too. No problems from me keeping and using old vehicles some had some much higher miles than this but a history of most since new on many of my own on most which helps some.


Add any recent work that might be a cause of something now that's overlooked too,


Tom