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Walker
2005 Honda Element Exhaust Tail Pipe 4 Cyl 2.4L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-3ABD48D    54486  New

Qty:
33.70
Walker Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Inlet Quantity: 1
    • Largo: 37.375
    • Length: 37.375
    • Material: Steel
    • Max Year Covered: 2011
    • Min Year Covered: 2003
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Honda Element
    • Most Popular Year: 2003
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: 2.125
    • Outlet Quantity: 1
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Terminación: Aluminized
    • Total Part VIO:
      • 280434
      • 288527
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Honda Element L 4 Cyl 2.4L 144 2354
Walker
1995 Honda Odyssey Exhaust Tail Pipe 4 Cyl 2.2L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-3A471EA    54118  New

Qty:
78.01
Walker Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Inlet Quantity: 1
    • Largo: 53.125
    • Length: 53.125
    • Material: Steel
    • Max Year Covered: 1999
    • Min Year Covered: 1995
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Honda Odyssey
    • Most Popular Year: 1995
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: 1.875
    • Outlet Quantity: 1
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Terminación: Aluminized
    • Total Part VIO:
      • 30829
      • 36542
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1995 - Honda Odyssey L 4 Cyl 2.2L - 2156
Walker
1999 Honda Passport Exhaust Tail Pipe 6 Cyl 3.2L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-1C0046D    55181  New

Qty:
38.77
Walker Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Inlet Quantity: 1
    • Largo: 48.500
    • Length: 48.500
    • Material: Steel
    • Max Year Covered: 2004
    • Min Year Covered: 1998
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Isuzu Rodeo
    • Most Popular Year: 1999
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: 2.000
    • Outlet Quantity: 1
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Terminación: Aluminized
    • Total Part VIO:
      • 108254
      • 129274
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1999 - Honda Passport V 6 Cyl 3.2L - 3165
Walker
1989 Honda Civic Exhaust Tail Pipe 4 Cyl 1.5L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-376E6EE    42819  New

Qty:
11.78
Walker Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bending Radius: 3.000
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Fitment: Direct Fit
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Inlet Outside Diameter: 1.500
    • Inlet Quantity: 1
    • Largo: 19.000
    • Length: 19.000
    • Material: Steel
    • Max Year Covered: 1991
    • Min Year Covered: 1988
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Honda Civic
    • Most Popular Year: 1991
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: 1.500
    • Outlet Quantity: 1
    • Pipe Diameter: 1.500
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Terminación: Aluminized
    • Total Part VIO:
      • 38765
      • 44130
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Body Block Engine CID CC
1989 - Honda Civic CX Hatchback L 4 Cyl 1.5L - 1493
Bosal
Qty:
93.47
Bosal Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • BRExhaust Replacement Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Title: Direct-fit Exhaust Mufflers, Resonators And Pipes
Brand: Bosal
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1998 - Honda Odyssey L 4 Cyl 2.3L - 2234
Bosal
Qty:
106.81
Bosal Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • BRExhaust Replacement Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Title: Direct-fit Exhaust Mufflers, Resonators And Pipes
Brand: Bosal
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1995 - Honda Passport L 4 Cyl 2.6L - 2559
Bosal
Qty:
45.42
Bosal Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • BRExhaust Replacement Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Title: Direct-fit Exhaust Mufflers, Resonators And Pipes
Brand: Bosal
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1997 - Honda Passport V 6 Cyl 3.2L - 3165
Bosal
Qty:
45.57
Bosal Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • ; Aluminized
  • Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • BRExhaust Replacement Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Title: Direct-fit Exhaust Mufflers, Resonators And Pipes
Brand: Bosal
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2002 - Honda Passport V 6 Cyl 3.2L - 3165
Bosal
Qty:
39.61
Bosal Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • BRExhaust Replacement Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Title: Direct-fit Exhaust Mufflers, Resonators And Pipes
Brand: Bosal
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Honda Element L 4 Cyl 2.4L 144 2354
Walker
1990 Honda Civic Exhaust Tail Pipe 4 Cyl 1.5L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-376E6EE    42819  New

Qty:
11.78
Walker Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • with Single Outlet Optional Parts for Split System
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bending Radius: 3.000
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Fitment: Direct Fit
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Inlet Outside Diameter: 1.500
    • Inlet Quantity: 1
    • Largo: 19.000
    • Length: 19.000
    • Material: Steel
    • Max Year Covered: 1991
    • Min Year Covered: 1988
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Honda Civic
    • Most Popular Year: 1991
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: 1.500
    • Outlet Quantity: 1
    • Pipe Diameter: 1.500
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Terminación: Aluminized
    • Total Part VIO:
      • 38765
      • 44130
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Doors Body Block Engine CID CC
1990 - Honda Civic DX 2 Hatchback L 4 Cyl 1.5L - 1493
Walker
1989 Honda CRX Exhaust Tail Pipe 4 Cyl 1.5L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-376E6EE    42819  New

Qty:
11.78
Walker Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • Optional Parts for Split System
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bending Radius: 3.000
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Fitment: Direct Fit
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Inlet Outside Diameter: 1.500
    • Inlet Quantity: 1
    • Largo: 19.000
    • Length: 19.000
    • Material: Steel
    • Max Year Covered: 1991
    • Min Year Covered: 1988
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Honda Civic
    • Most Popular Year: 1991
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: 1.500
    • Outlet Quantity: 1
    • Pipe Diameter: 1.500
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Terminación: Aluminized
    • Total Part VIO:
      • 38765
      • 44130
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Block Engine CID CC
1989 - Honda CRX Base L 4 Cyl 1.5L - 1493
Walker
1988 Honda Civic Exhaust Tail Pipe 4 Cyl 1.5L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-376E6EE    42819  New

Qty:
11.78
Walker Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • with Single Outlet
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bending Radius: 3.000
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Fitment: Direct Fit
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Inlet Outside Diameter: 1.500
    • Inlet Quantity: 1
    • Largo: 19.000
    • Length: 19.000
    • Material: Steel
    • Max Year Covered: 1991
    • Min Year Covered: 1988
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Honda Civic
    • Most Popular Year: 1991
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: 1.500
    • Outlet Quantity: 1
    • Pipe Diameter: 1.500
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Terminación: Aluminized
    • Total Part VIO:
      • 38765
      • 44130
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Doors Body Block Engine CID CC
1988 - Honda Civic DX 2 Hatchback L 4 Cyl 1.5L - 1493

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2006 Honda Loud sounds/Bad cat?

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Snooze08 on 2006 Honda Loud sounds/Bad cat?

2006
Honda
Odyssey
(will get back on engine size and milage)


Randomly started sounding like a motorcycle. Bottom heat guard of cat converter is off, and when I splash water where it connects to pipe the loud sound briefly dissipates. Is sound due to leak ?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

First - don't splash water at a hot converter or pipes! If looking for an exhaust leak if not obvious try with a helper to carefully restrict exhaust at tail pipe well guarding hands from heat if you try that while just feel for air at suspect spot without touching it or if noise is then louder alone right there a leak is likely.


Do you have the bottom half of the heat shield? Almost all when spot weld give out or just one like the top stuck there loose is going to rattle like nuts at times.


If you have both halves in decent shape except the spot welds I personally can fix most of those, others will suggest whole parts with new one that could include a converter that is fine otherwise.


Ask - if bad if just a shield can be replaced and not the whole pipe and converter if missing. IDK for sure but popular cars/vehicles may be selling those now to work as intended and it should,


T

91 Civic 1500 - misses

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Guest on 91 Civic 1500 - misses

I have a '91 honda civic,1500w/5spd, 200K miles, replaced, cap,rotor & plugs, once it warms up, it misses like running on 2 or 3 cyl. sounds like reverb noise through tail pipe, looses some power only when I power up or accelertate under load. It smooths











(edit to move content inside, subject on top)

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Any chance you mixed up firing order or replacement of wires on the cap? Same firing order of middle two on 4 cyl - just reversed if direction of rotation isn't payed attention to,

T

vibration/rattle when accelerating slowly

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From blueriver on vibration/rattle when accelerating slowly

My wife's 2006 Odyssey with ~150k has a slight vibration/rattle noise. It occurs when driving on level ground up to about 40 mph when I give it just a little gas - accelerate slowly or try to maintain speed. Giving it slightly more or less gas makes it go away; otherwise I can make it happen consistently. It is similar to a loose heat shield rattle, but the underside was checked carefully by my independent mechanic and he found nothing loose. Honda couldn't find anything either. I observed that giving it gas results in the noise after having it at the shops. The sound pre-dates the most recent tire rotation. Any thoughts?

Response From Hammer Time

It could have a broken Catalytic Converter.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Among the may- bees is exhaust stuff. Bump tail pipe with a rubber hammer - you might just find something. Have fixed that with worm clamps but would need to see it,

T

2003 Honda Civic drives fine but makes rattling noise

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From joiseygirl on 2003 Honda Civic drives fine but makes rattling noise

Year of vehicle: 2003
Make of vehicle: Honda
Model of vehicle: Civic EX
Engine size: 2.0 (?)
Mileage/Kilometers: 110,000+

For over 1 year now, my car has made a rattling noise, which sounds like it comes from underneath the chassis. It is always present, though sometimes it is louder than others (there doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason to this).

I found some audio clips online (link deleted .... not allowed), and it sounds most like one labeled "hole in muffler." Then again, it also sounds like it could be "lifter adjustment" or "vacuum hose leak."

There are no check engine lights on the dash and the has driven fine for as long as the noise has been present. If nothing else, the noise is loud and embarrassing, and I finally want to get it addressed. I'd like to get an idea of what the problem is before bringing it into the mechanic so I can understand what cost range I'm looking at.

If you have any idea of what the source of this noise is, please let me know!

Thanks :)

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

A very common noise is heat shields that come apart on exhaust parts anywhere front on back. Some you can find easily just tap on tail pipe and mid exhaust parts with a rubber hammer, engine off even and better and it will rattle at the problem spot.


If found that is it there are assorted ways to fix depending on how broken or rusted.


Other common is the flex pipe close to engine that must flex with engine motion at assorted loads. If really exhaust leaking you do need to tend to it at once,


T

Response From joiseygirl

Thanks for your suggestions, I will (have my fiancé) check the heat shields tomorrow! I tend to think it's probably not exhaust leaking as I probably would have died from CO poisoning a long while ago :)

Thanks again for your thoughts!

Suspected Oil Leak

Showing 3 out of 22 Posts | Show 19 Hidden Posts
Question From spartadrive_in on Suspected Oil Leak

2001 Honda Accord EX Sedan 4-cyl. Manual Trans

Hello. First time on here and I've been told you guys are the ones to talk to.

I suspect an oil leak in my car that is in very good condition.
I've been monitoring my oil levels for a few weeks now and I have been noticing it has been losing about a quart a week. (I drive about 250 miles a week.)

I havn't seen any puddles on the floor where I usually park (overnight, work). And I have not seen any visible leaks on the top side of the motor (I have yet to take a thorough look underneath).

So what could be possible problems and areas or suspicion. Where should I be looking really?
Thank you in advance.

Response From dave284

If you can't see any from the bottom, check the sparkplugs for signs of burning oil there,and also the tailpipe.

Response From DanD

I agree with Dave; if the car is going through that much oil and it was from an external leak; the under side of the car would look like a butter ball turkey; self-basting.
Pull the spark plugs, like Dave said and have a look see. If you see carbon like in the pictures below, you’ve found where the oils going.

Dan.

Response From spartadrive_in


I agree with Dave; if the car is going through that much oil and it was from an external leak; the under side of the car would look like a butter ball turkey; self-basting.
Pull the spark plugs, like Dave said and have a look see. If you see carbon like in the pictures below, you’ve found where the oils going.

Dan.







OK I will look for that.
If it does look like that how do I go about repairing? New spark plugs and a new valve cover gasket??

Thanks for your help.

Response From DanD

No spark plugs or a valve cover gasket won’t do anything for that; it may mean reconditioning a portion, if not the entire engine.
Worn oil control piston rings, cylinder walls worn tapered, valve guides or seals worn to the point that oil can get past these items and enter the combustion chamber.
If this is a high mileage car the problem could be a combination of all these things.

With that being said there are still some external things that might be causing this. If the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve is not functioning or the vacuum source to the valve is restricted; crankcase pressures cannot be relieved and this could force oil into the combustion chamber.

Remove the PCV valve from the valve cover, leaving the vacuum hose attached. Start the engine and place your finger over the opening of the valve. You should feel a strong vacuum and hear the engine slow by 50 to 150 rpm. If so the valve is working.

Dan.

Response From spartadrive_in

The mileage is at 108K.

I will check the PCV valve tonight. I pray it is not that other stuff you said.

I will check back with my findings as soon as I do these tasks.

Thank you.

Response From spartadrive_in


The mileage is at 108K.

I will check the PCV valve tonight. I pray it is not that other stuff you said.

I will check back with my findings as soon as I do these tasks.

Thank you.


Checked the PCV valve and it had a strong suction and acted as you said.
Unfortunately I didn't get a chance last night to check the spark plugs. I did how ever remove the cables and checked inside, no oil. But I did not remove the sparks and look on the threads and contacts.

I"ll try for later today.

Response From spartadrive_in Top Rated Answer

Ok there was NO OIL in the spark plugs.
Over the weekend I went to my personal family mechanic and after throwing it on the lift and poking around and asking me questions, there is no blue smoke or anything coming out of the tail pipe and he couldn't find a single drop anywhere, he concluded that the engine was taking up too much oil. More precisely the 'piston rings' were using it up. He told me that parts and labor would be a total of ~$1,400 ($600 being on parts alone) to replace the rings and that the head had to go to the machine shop for re-sanding. What do you guys think of this? Sounds plausible?

ALSO, if I'm correct then would this be covered under a POWER TRAIN WARRANTY?

Thanks a million.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If it's "burning" a quart every 250 miles it would show at the spark plugs. Needing a "ring" job is old fashioned - not a likely fix without lots more possiblly needed if it really does need that job.

I'm not buying that diag and remedy so fast. It's going somewhere but just eluding detection. Perhaps a oil pressure switch can drip and not hit anything.

Compression test would show condition of rings. More diagnostics needed before I'd spring 1400 bucks for what I think won't help.

Oil in coolant? Keep looking - second opinions..........

T

Ask - but I bet a 2001 has no warranty left for this

Response From spartadrive_in

I am getting a second opinion from a mechanic as we speak (I left it over night). I told him about the diagnosis and he told me he was going to run a compression test and get back to me.
I'll get back to you guys.
Thanks!

Response From DanD

Sorry to contradict you Tom about the compression test; because you can have relatively good compression and still have a worn/seized oil control
ring(s), which will allow oil too pass, causing oil burning.

Spartadrive; most pistons have a set of three rings.
Here’s a scan, out of one of my old text books that shows the set-up and gives a brief description.



Notice how the upper ring has a wedge cut out of its inner upper edge. That is to allow compression too get in behind the ring and help push the ring even tighter to the cylinder wall. So if this ring is in “good” condition and the cylinder wall doesn’t have excessive taper; the engine will still show good compression.

The lower oil control ring is made up of three pieces and is much lighter in construction; it solely relies on its own spring tension, to keep it tight too the cylinder wall. If this ring is worn or sticking in its piston groove; oil will get past it and the intermediate ring isn’t designed to handle that much oil.

I know you said you do not see blue oil smoke but the engine maybe burning the oil on a continuous small amount, that you will not see it?

You would see oil if the problem were valve guides or valve seals; valve seals would give you puffs of oil with throttle change. As the engine vacuum would change from low (accelerating) to high decelerating; oil would get sucked past the guides, causing a puff of oil smoke.

If you can’t see any external oil leakage; the oil has to be going some place and the only other place is out the tail pipe.

A gas analyzer, stuck in the tail pipe; monitoring hydrocarbons (HC) would tell you if there were excessive oil in the exhaust.

Dan.

Response From spartadrive_in

Thanks for all that information Dan. I'll check back when the mechanic calls me back.

Response From spartadrive_in

OK guys,
The mechanic said he did a compression test and it passed fine. He said that the engine was perfect and there was no problem there.
His diagnosis was that the clutch was using/burning? the oil. He said replacement of the clutch would fix the problem. About $180 for the clutch kit (parts only) + labor (about $280).
He said during his test drive that the RPMs were too high. So all these things told him the clutch needs to be replaced.


Your thoughts please?

Response From DanD

All I’ll say to that is get a written guarantee from this person and have it notarized by your lawyer; that the engine oil consumption is cured with this clutch repair!

I’m not there to test drive or check this vehicle but if a slipping clutch is causing the engine oil to disappear; you must be literally revving the living crap out of the engine.

Clutches are not lubricated by engine oil, in anyway, shape or form.

Now if the rear engine main seal is leaking, allowing oil to get on the clutch; causing it to slip that’s another story. You have to remove the clutch to get too the main seal, but you said there are no leaks?

Dan.

Response From spartadrive_in

DAN:
I aksed him if oil passed throught the clutch (because my common sense says no) and he said it dows not. I wasn't quite sure what he meant that the clutch was using it up. Like I said before his analysis of the higher RPMs led him to believe this further.
What should the idle RPMs be in a 2001 Honda Accord be anyway?
I don't have a lawyer. How do I get a notary? At the post office?


TOM:
I do check the oil on the same day. Usually I am putting oil in my drivewway at times so that oil would stay on the floor and then I would see it. Even when I'm on the move I will put oil, go to my destination, and then check it again when I get there. Usually the levels are good. It always seems to "sneek" up on me. I will check it randomly and that's when I see it low.
I am going to start a rigorous time schedule at when to check it so that I can chart it's progress.

About extreme angles. My driveway is on a slight slope but I usually park on the street which is flat. At work it is also parked flat.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just Tom for the moment - Dan will be back as he can.

Engine oil could get onto clutch thru the rear main as Dan suggested but isn't designed for engine oil to be involved with the clutch or trans at all. There's heat when you are allowing partial grab (the transition from disengaged to engaged) that might get hot enough to burn some oil off. A drop or two not quarts! The few that have leaked on clutch disc all had driveability issues with the clutch as the first complaint.

RPMs at idle? 650-750ish and steady? In the area....

Notary Public: Banks, RealEstate offices, law offices - ask around.

Do keep a record and observations. Have you ever caught this low enough to cause low or no oil pressure?? That worries me,

T

Response From spartadrive_in

The Oil indicator has never come on and I've seen it go below the low-level dot(mark). There is always enough to at least see it towards the bottom of the dip stick.
I havn't found any problems in the way the transmission drives although the last few days when I'm at a stop light the RPMs will start to hesitate (fall low then jump back to where it usually stays) about 2 or 3 times. This is usually wafter I've exited the freeway and am now at the first few stoplights.

The RPMs are idle just below 1K if not a tad lower. But besides what I just described above ,when it is not doing that the meter holds steady.

Thanks again.

Response From spartadrive_in

Just and UPDATE.

I finally had my clutch replaced and got it back yesterday. The dealer went in on half the payment since the powertrain warranty did not cover it.

Know that I am using a new clutch (I never had one before) I now know that my other cars could have used clutches. :)
It rides way smoother, sounds better, and doesn't hesitate from 1st of slip anymore.

NOW. ... the original problem here was the oil leak. Now he told me that the clutch was causing it. (???)

He assured me that it is fixed and I have a warranty. OF course I won't know for sure until a few days of driving it.
I have been keeping a daily log of my fluid levels over the past 2 weeks and am familiar with how much was wasting. I will continue my daily log and continue to monitor this. HOPEFULLY it's good because this has been a hassle.

thanks and any comments of help is appreciated.

Response From DanD

I’m not sure what he means either; about the clutch using up the oil because that’s a new one to me?
As far as the lawyer thing goes; well that was me being sarcastic.
There’s no way a clutch can be the direct cause of an engine using oil.

Dan.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I should probably go hide from this thread but it's interesting. I'm not buying into the clutch as the source problem. If slipping enough to allow contantly higher RPMs and somehow burning off oil dripping on it something would have self destructed by now. Hey - one gallon of oil lost in 1,000 miles went somewhere. I'm stuck with "where's the evidence?"

Just curious about the pattern of this....... you say it uses a qt every 250 miles. I'm probably out in left feild but that's about an interval for refueling so if that's so and you add oil at a gas station and it manages to actually leak soon after but stay just the qt low till you check again then perhaps it is leaking to ground pehaps out of something (sensor) on the oil pan that can leak and not make a mess anywhere and is done dripping when you park it so remains unseen.

For something odd like that I'd suggest checking the oil again the same day you knew it was at the full mark and see if it's still there??

Also: Is this car routinely parked at an extreme angle or something odd about it's use not noted yet?

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Dan - you can slap me around any time you want . My real concern with this was lack of evidence and I would have put a compression test on my list for diagnosing this. It's just been my experience that Hondas and some others do very well with oil consumption even with higher mileage. IMO by the time there's the same problem with rings with all cylinders - oil or compression rings that it's the result of something else (poor maintenance, overheats, sludge) that means more troubles ahead.

If this came to me with no evidence, good even compression test results I'd miss suspecting the possiblity you brought up.

Even Kitty would have missed that and she's the one with the "paws" on experience at my shop!

Tom

Response From spartadrive_in


If you can't see any from the bottom, check the sparkplugs for signs of burning oil there,and also the tailpipe.



I'll check those areas tonight then.
Any areas I should especially be looking at underneath?

Thanks again!