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Best Selling Genuine Cadillac Tail Pipes

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Walker
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Cadillac Replacement Tail Pipe Parts

We stock Tail Pipe parts for most Cadillac models, including Brougham, Calais, Cimarron, Commercial Chassis, DeVille, Eldorado, Escalade, Escalade ESV, Fleetwood.

Walker
2004 Cadillac Escalade Exhaust Tail Pipe 8 Cyl 5.3L Walker - Dynomax Tail Pipe

P311-2FEF865    55114  New

Qty:
$77.69
  • Dynomax Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Max Year Covered: 2006
    • Min Year Covered: 2001
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chevrolet Tahoe
    • Most Popular Year: 2004
    • Product Grade: Premium
    • Total Part VIO: 2244164
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Cadillac Escalade V 8 Cyl 5.3L 325 5328
Walker
Qty:
$42.88
  • ; Except 20" Wheels; If welded assembly, replace all required parts.
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: W
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.625
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.625
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Inlet Outside Diameter: 2.625
    • Inlet Type: Pipe Connection
    • Largo: 51.250
    • Max Year Covered: 2006
    • Min Year Covered: 2001
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Gmc Yukon
    • Most Popular Year: 2004
    • Outlet Connection Type: Spout
    • Outlet Type: Spout
    • Overall Length: 51.250
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Terminación: Aluminized
    • Total Part VIO: 400230
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Cadillac Escalade EXT V 8 Cyl 6.0L 364 5967
Walker
2003 Cadillac Escalade Exhaust Tail Pipe 8 Cyl 6.0L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-0A922AC    55321  New

Qty:
$42.88
  • ; If welded assembly, replace all required parts.
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: W
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.625
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.625
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Inlet Outside Diameter: 2.625
    • Inlet Type: Pipe Connection
    • Largo: 51.250
    • Max Year Covered: 2006
    • Min Year Covered: 2001
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Gmc Yukon
    • Most Popular Year: 2004
    • Outlet Connection Type: Spout
    • Outlet Type: Spout
    • Overall Length: 51.250
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Terminación: Aluminized
    • Total Part VIO: 400230
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Block Engine CID CC
2003 - Cadillac Escalade Base V 8 Cyl 6.0L 364 5967
Walker
2002 Cadillac Escalade Exhaust Tail Pipe 8 Cyl 5.3L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-2B7AC5B    54382  New

Qty:
$40.71
  • ; Excludes Luxury Pkg.; If welded assembly, replace all required parts.
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: B
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.625
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.625
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Inlet Outside Diameter: 2.625
    • Inlet Type: Pipe Connection
    • Largo: 46.375
    • Max Year Covered: 2006
    • Min Year Covered: 2001
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chevrolet Tahoe
    • Most Popular Year: 2004
    • Outlet Connection Type: Spout
    • Outlet Type: Spout
    • Overall Length: 46.375
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Terminación: Aluminized
    • Total Part VIO: 2244164
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2002 - Cadillac Escalade V 8 Cyl 5.3L 325 5328
Walker
2004 Cadillac Escalade Exhaust Tail Pipe 8 Cyl 5.3L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-2B7AC5B    54382  New

Qty:
$40.71
  • ; Excludes Luxury Pkg.; Excludes Luxury Pkg.; If welded assembly, replace all required parts.
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: B
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.625
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.625
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Inlet Outside Diameter: 2.625
    • Inlet Type: Pipe Connection
    • Largo: 46.375
    • Max Year Covered: 2006
    • Min Year Covered: 2001
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chevrolet Tahoe
    • Most Popular Year: 2004
    • Outlet Connection Type: Spout
    • Outlet Type: Spout
    • Overall Length: 46.375
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Terminación: Aluminized
    • Total Part VIO: 2244164
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Cadillac Escalade V 8 Cyl 5.3L 325 5328
Walker
1987 Cadillac Cimarron Exhaust Tail Pipe 6 Cyl 2.8L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-0401BA6    41299  New

Qty:
$9.19
  • ; Aluminized; If welded assembly, replace all required parts.
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: B
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.000
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Fitment: Universal
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Inlet Outside Diameter: 2.000
    • Inlet Type: Pipe Connection
    • Largo: 10.000
    • Max Year Covered: 1994
    • Min Year Covered: 1984
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chevrolet Cavalier
    • Most Popular Year: 1991
    • Outlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: 2.000
    • Outlet Type: Pipe Connection
    • Overall Length: 10.000
    • Product Description: Tail Spout
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Terminación: Aluminized
    • Total Part VIO: 72532
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1987 - Cadillac Cimarron V 6 Cyl 2.8L 173 -
Walker
1982 Cadillac DeVille Exhaust Tail Pipe 8 Cyl 4.1L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-173EF3B    46468  New

Qty:
$20.44
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: D
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.000
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Inlet Outside Diameter: 2.000
    • Inlet Type: Pipe Connection
    • Largo: 61.000
    • Max Year Covered: 1988
    • Min Year Covered: 1977
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chevrolet Caprice
    • Most Popular Year: 1979
    • Outlet Connection Type: Spout
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: 2.000
    • Outlet Type: Spout
    • Overall Length: 61.000
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Terminación: Aluminized
    • Total Part VIO: 101373
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1982 - Cadillac DeVille V 8 Cyl 4.1L 250 -
Walker
1986 Cadillac Fleetwood Exhaust Tail Pipe 8 Cyl 4.1L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-2DB576A    42735  New

Qty:
$14.23
  • ; If welded assembly, replace all required parts.
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bend Radius: 4.500
    • Bending Radius: 4.500
    • Class: D
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.000
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Fitment: Direct Fit
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Inlet Outside Diameter: 2.000
    • Inlet Type: Pipe Connection
    • Largo: 19.500
    • Max Year Covered: 1991
    • Min Year Covered: 1986
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Buick Lesabre
    • Most Popular Year: 1988
    • Outlet Connection Type: Spout
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.676
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: 2.676
    • Outlet Type: Spout
    • Overall Length: 19.500
    • Pipe Diameter: 2.000
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Terminación: Aluminized
    • Total Part VIO: 94610
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Block Engine CID CC
1986 - Cadillac Fleetwood FWD V 8 Cyl 4.1L 250 -
Walker
1977 Cadillac Fleetwood Exhaust Tail Pipe 8 Cyl 7.0L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-57CE901    46550  New

Qty:
$24.34
  • Resonator Substitute Pipe
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: C
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.250
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.250
    • Inlet Type: Pipe Connection
    • Largo: 61.125
    • Max Year Covered: 1990
    • Min Year Covered: 1977
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chevrolet Caprice
    • Most Popular Year: 1989
    • Outlet Connection Type: Spout
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.250
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: 2.250
    • Outlet Type: Spout
    • Overall Length: 61.125
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Terminación: Aluminized
    • Total Part VIO: 102415
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Block Engine CID CC
1977 - Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham V 8 Cyl 7.0L 425 -
Walker
1980 Cadillac DeVille Exhaust Tail Pipe 6 Cyl 4.1L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-173EF3B    46468  New

Qty:
$20.44
  • Resonator Substitute Pipe; Requires 35148
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: D
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.000
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Inlet Outside Diameter: 2.000
    • Inlet Type: Pipe Connection
    • Largo: 61.000
    • Max Year Covered: 1988
    • Min Year Covered: 1977
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chevrolet Caprice
    • Most Popular Year: 1979
    • Outlet Connection Type: Spout
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: 2.000
    • Outlet Type: Spout
    • Overall Length: 61.000
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Terminación: Aluminized
    • Total Part VIO: 101373
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1980 - Cadillac DeVille V 6 Cyl 4.1L 252 -
Walker
1980 Cadillac DeVille Exhaust Tail Pipe 8 Cyl 5.7L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-173EF3B    46468  New

Qty:
$20.44
  • ; Requires 35941
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: D
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.000
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Inlet Outside Diameter: 2.000
    • Inlet Type: Pipe Connection
    • Largo: 61.000
    • Max Year Covered: 1988
    • Min Year Covered: 1977
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chevrolet Caprice
    • Most Popular Year: 1979
    • Outlet Connection Type: Spout
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: 2.000
    • Outlet Type: Spout
    • Overall Length: 61.000
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Terminación: Aluminized
    • Total Part VIO: 101373
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1980 - Cadillac DeVille V 8 Cyl 5.7L 350 -
Walker
1972 Cadillac Eldorado Exhaust Tail Pipe 8 Cyl 8.2L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-475B113    41206  New

Qty:
$15.46
  • ; Requires 35148
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: D
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.250
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Fitment: Direct Fit
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.250
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Inlet Outside Diameter: 2.250
    • Inlet Type: Pipe Connection
    • Largo: 11.000
    • Max Year Covered: 1979
    • Min Year Covered: 1971
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Plymouth Fury
    • Most Popular Year: 1978
    • Outlet Connection Type: Spout
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.250
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: 2.250
    • Outlet Type: Spout
    • Overall Length: 11.000
    • Pipe Diameter: 2.250
    • Product Description: Tail Spout
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Terminación: Aluminized
    • Total Part VIO: 21514
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1972 - Cadillac Eldorado V 8 Cyl 8.2L 500 -
Walker
1971 Cadillac Fleetwood Exhaust Tail Pipe 8 Cyl 7.7L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-3AE0E56    43676  New

Qty:
$10.29
  • Resonator Substitute Pipe
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: W
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.250
    • Diámetro interior de la entrada: 2.250
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Fitment: Direct Fit
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.250
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Inside Diameter
    • Inlet Inside Diameter: 2.250
    • Inlet Type: Pipe Connection
    • Largo: 28.940
    • Max Year Covered: 1980
    • Min Year Covered: 1971
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Plymouth Fury
    • Most Popular Year: 1978
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.250
    • Overall Length: 28.940
    • Pipe Diameter: 2.250
    • Pipe Thickness: 0.050
    • Product Description: Tail Pipe
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Terminación: Aluminized
    • Total Part VIO: 25791
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1971 - Cadillac Fleetwood V 8 Cyl 7.7L 472 7735
Walker
1981 Cadillac DeVille Exhaust Tail Pipe 8 Cyl 6.0L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-57CE901    46550  New

Qty:
$24.34
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: C
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.250
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.250
    • Inlet Type: Pipe Connection
    • Largo: 61.125
    • Max Year Covered: 1990
    • Min Year Covered: 1977
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chevrolet Caprice
    • Most Popular Year: 1989
    • Outlet Connection Type: Spout
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.250
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: 2.250
    • Outlet Type: Spout
    • Overall Length: 61.125
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Terminación: Aluminized
    • Total Part VIO: 102415
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1981 - Cadillac DeVille V 8 Cyl 6.0L 368 -
Walker
1972 Cadillac DeVille Exhaust Tail Pipe 8 Cyl 7.7L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-475B113    41206  New

Qty:
$15.46
  • ; w/Resonator
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: D
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.250
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Fitment: Direct Fit
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.250
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Inlet Outside Diameter: 2.250
    • Inlet Type: Pipe Connection
    • Largo: 11.000
    • Max Year Covered: 1979
    • Min Year Covered: 1971
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Plymouth Fury
    • Most Popular Year: 1978
    • Outlet Connection Type: Spout
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.250
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: 2.250
    • Outlet Type: Spout
    • Overall Length: 11.000
    • Pipe Diameter: 2.250
    • Product Description: Tail Spout
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Terminación: Aluminized
    • Total Part VIO: 21514
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1972 - Cadillac DeVille V 8 Cyl 7.7L 472 7735
Walker
1985 Cadillac DeVille Exhaust Tail Pipe 8 Cyl 4.1L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-57CE901    46550  New

Qty:
$24.34
  • Resonator Substitute Pipe; with Rear Exit
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: C
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.250
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.250
    • Inlet Type: Pipe Connection
    • Largo: 61.125
    • Max Year Covered: 1990
    • Min Year Covered: 1977
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chevrolet Caprice
    • Most Popular Year: 1989
    • Outlet Connection Type: Spout
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.250
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: 2.250
    • Outlet Type: Spout
    • Overall Length: 61.125
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Terminación: Aluminized
    • Total Part VIO: 102415
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1985 - Cadillac DeVille V 8 Cyl 4.1L 250 -
Walker
1988 Cadillac Fleetwood Exhaust Tail Pipe 8 Cyl 4.5L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-2DB576A    42735  New

Qty:
$14.23
  • ; Cut 1 1/8" off Inlet End.; If welded assembly, replace all required parts.
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Bend Radius: 4.500
    • Bending Radius: 4.500
    • Class: D
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.000
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Fitment: Direct Fit
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Inlet Outside Diameter: 2.000
    • Inlet Type: Pipe Connection
    • Largo: 19.500
    • Max Year Covered: 1991
    • Min Year Covered: 1986
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Buick Lesabre
    • Most Popular Year: 1988
    • Outlet Connection Type: Spout
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.676
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: 2.676
    • Outlet Type: Spout
    • Overall Length: 19.500
    • Pipe Diameter: 2.000
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Terminación: Aluminized
    • Total Part VIO: 94610
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Drive Type Block Engine CID CC
1988 - Cadillac Fleetwood 60 Special FWD V 8 Cyl 4.5L 273 -
Walker
1984 Cadillac Cimarron Exhaust Tail Pipe 4 Cyl 2.0L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-0401BA6    41299  New

Qty:
$9.19
  • ; Except Early Models with Muffler Body Strap; Aluminized; If welded assembly, replace all required parts.
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: B
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.000
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Fitment: Universal
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Inlet Outside Diameter: 2.000
    • Inlet Type: Pipe Connection
    • Largo: 10.000
    • Max Year Covered: 1994
    • Min Year Covered: 1984
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chevrolet Cavalier
    • Most Popular Year: 1991
    • Outlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: 2.000
    • Outlet Type: Pipe Connection
    • Overall Length: 10.000
    • Product Description: Tail Spout
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Terminación: Aluminized
    • Total Part VIO: 72532
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1984 - Cadillac Cimarron L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 -
Walker
1985 Cadillac Cimarron Exhaust Tail Pipe 4 Cyl 2.0L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-0401BA6    41299  New

Qty:
$9.19
  • ; Aluminized; Excludes Early Models w/Muffler Body Strap; If welded assembly, replace all required parts.
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: B
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.000
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Fitment: Universal
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Inlet Outside Diameter: 2.000
    • Inlet Type: Pipe Connection
    • Largo: 10.000
    • Max Year Covered: 1994
    • Min Year Covered: 1984
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chevrolet Cavalier
    • Most Popular Year: 1991
    • Outlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: 2.000
    • Outlet Type: Pipe Connection
    • Overall Length: 10.000
    • Product Description: Tail Spout
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Terminación: Aluminized
    • Total Part VIO: 72532
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1985 - Cadillac Cimarron L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 -
Walker
1971 Cadillac Fleetwood Exhaust Tail Pipe 8 Cyl 7.7L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-475B113    41206  New

Qty:
$15.46
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: D
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.250
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Fitment: Direct Fit
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.250
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Inlet Outside Diameter: 2.250
    • Inlet Type: Pipe Connection
    • Largo: 11.000
    • Max Year Covered: 1979
    • Min Year Covered: 1971
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Plymouth Fury
    • Most Popular Year: 1978
    • Outlet Connection Type: Spout
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.250
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Outlet Outside Diameter: 2.250
    • Outlet Type: Spout
    • Overall Length: 11.000
    • Pipe Diameter: 2.250
    • Product Description: Tail Spout
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Terminación: Aluminized
    • Total Part VIO: 21514
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1971 - Cadillac Fleetwood V 8 Cyl 7.7L 472 7735

Latest Cadillac Repair and Tail Pipe Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

engin code

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From paulrice on engin code

2006 cadillac srx 3.6 6cyl po300 code 301 302 303 304 305 306 codes put a scanner on and shows these codes at once car was running fine stopped for an hour started it up ran shakey still runs shakey noticed tail pipes some black soot mybe egr?

Response From Hammer Time

You have a misfire in every cylinder so stop checking all the basics as Tom advised.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

I don't and do not need to look up codes for this. It is running like crap so will throw codes. If this was a surprise you need to find what is in common. For now check fuel pressure KOEO (key on engine off) and see it that's OK. Rule out what you can. Right now I'm doubting a spark issue so rule out fuel pressure being too low... -- T

Using oil

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on Using oil

Hi,

Thank you for letting me share my car problem with you, hopefully someone will help solve the problem. I have a 1999 Dodge Ram 1500 full size truck with a crew cab, automatic and a 5.2 L engine. The truck had 60,000 miles on it when I purchased it three years ago and now has 75,000 miles.

The truck runs very well and has plenty of power, although it does not get very good gas mileage. The problem I have, which I discovered about six months after I bought the truck is that it uses a lot of oil. I’ve never kept real good track of how much it uses, but I would guess I go through at least a quart of oil every 1000 miles. I do not hear any unusual noises in the engine. I do not see white smoke coming out of the tail pipe, although my white truck may show a little black film around where the tail pipe ends. The oil on my dip stick is very black but has no white residue.

I told my mechanic about the problem and he said he would put some kind of a gauge on the engine and check the engines compression. He said the engine checked out ok and he doesn’t know why I would be using so much oil. I know there has to be an explanation for this and I’m hoping someone on this forum can shed some light on it. Thanks again for the help.

Jon M.

Response From Double J Top Rated Answer

Hi

All I have to offer is this...
Worked at GM dealers and had similar complaints...
According to GM engineering, it is normal for a GM engine to use a quart to a quart and a half of oil in 800 -1000 miles...
I know this sounds excessive..used to be use to using a quart in the 3000 miles between changes..
But if all checks out ok,not much you can do..
Check with Chrysler/Dodge and see what they say..I'm sure they have something similar..

They(GM) would recommend doing an oil comsumption test...
We were to inspect for any leaks,etc...check pcv system operation,..etc..
Then change the engine oil and oil filter, at customers expense, then have the customer drive the vehicle and keep a check on the oil level, (we would check if they stopped in,).then when it was a quart low,document the mileage ...if within the specs as stated above...then there is no problem found ...
Now Cadillac,Northstar engines were great for consumption,leaks...some had to have whats known as a 2 stage decarbon process done ...corrected most of them,but some had to be repaired internally....

Thats all I got
See what the others say

Response From way2old

There is a metal plate on the bottom of the intake. This has a gasket on it. These gaskets blow out and allow the vacuum from the throttle body to suck oil into the intake and through the cylinders. It burns the oil, but it is so slight you can not see the smoke. Plug off the PCV and remove the hose from other valve cover. Place latex glove or balloon over the hose. If the glove or baloon swells up, gasket is blown and needs replaced. Good luck.

Engine over heating

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From wsimhiser on Engine over heating

I have a 2001 Cadillac Devil 4.6, I put an engine in it and it was over heating. So I replaced the water pump and thermostat. The car runs great but still over heats. When the temp gauge is at mid point I removed the drain plug from radiator and the coolant wasn't hot but the coolant at the reservoir was. Can some one please give me some help with what may be wrong. I thought maybe an air pocket but don't know.

Response From GC

I have a 2001 Cadillac Devil 4.6

Found the problem.

If it didnt have head/block sealing issues before, it probably does now. But with Tom, need to know what happened to first engine, and how you know this one is any good.

Really need to fill this system up with a vacuum fill (airlift) to ensure that there are no air pockets in the system, as its prone to problems in the first place. Another good step would be to buy one of those blue liquid type block testers and check for combustion gasses in cooling system.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

What killed the first engine? Is this a used engine now? It may have serious problems and was sold anyway so more testing and know it's really full of coolant first then I think I'd begin testing for a head gasket type issue on this especially if used the engine could have been the reason it was available!


T

Response From wsimhiser

Thanks. It is full of coolant. It just acts like it has an air pocket. It isn't fogging and it isn't putting coolant into the oil.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

You need to answer some of the questions sport. What happened to the old engine and why did this one overheat right out of the gate?


Head gaskets don't need to fog out tail pipe or mix with oil but can put exhaust gasses into cooling system and you'll overheat all the time with a never ending air (vapor) problem that can't cool an engine.


If air pocket just normal and a pest to get out vacuum fill system and know it's full.


Just do testing and things on this one while it's intact. Pressure test, test for fumes in coolant which is iffy, fans working and blowing the right way, all of everything you can do to nail it down.


If used (must be) it was probably already like that if head gasket and another gave up on it. You have to say how and where you got the engine and what tests were done to save that one at all if known. Good salvage yards should have info all over the thing including miles and a compression test as they don't want it back either but most would give you another but nothing for labor if bad. Used is used and there are risks,


T


(edit) Just to add if head gasket just gaskets and bolts + misc like another oil change and more over $500 in parts and think this one is tons of listed hours never mind if head check out OK or NG and that too on top. Check first as said)

Oil in the Reservoir

Showing 2 out of 35 Posts | Show 33 Hidden Posts
Question From P0E2005 on Oil in the Reservoir

Ok. Unique situation. My brother lived about 5 hours north of me. And moved back in with me recently. The plan was to drive up. Get his car up and running (It had been sitting for about 6 months due to expired tags) And him follow me down.

(2000 Saturn LS2 by the way)

Alas! Upon just checking his coolant level. I encountered a thick, milky black oil, that smelled like engine oil. My first thought "Oh god! Head Gasket" so I flushed it all out. And re-filled the reservoir. And started it up. It Idled ok. No water out of the Tail pipe. Pulled the dipstick, and the Oil level was ok. Didn't look milky or watery. So then I popped the cap off the coolant reservoir to see if any exhaust bubbles were being released in the water.

And here comes the oil. You could watch it rise. Eventually over flowing and just running down the side.

Any ideas? See, the main issue is the car being in his friend's yard 300 miles away. Hard to trouble shoot it. I am running off memory here, and any advice you guys have will be taken into effect upon my trip BACK up next week. It's just rough. I ONLY have Saturday and Sunday off, and with Most mechanics being closed Sunday's I pretty much just have Saturday to work with. So at least a vague Idea would be so great.

Head Gasket? Head? Block? Radiator? Any help yould be appreciated.

Response From Hammer Time

That's not going to be a head gasket. It's going to be a cracked head. Those DOHC are notorious for that and that's about the only way you get oil in the coolant. Head gaskets don't generally do that.

Response From Discretesignals

Oil cooler is probably leaking. The 3.0L is known for that.

Its located in between the cylinder heads under the intake.

?1306112426

Response From P0E2005

Alright guys. You have all been really helpful so far. As soon as I find out more details I will let you know.

Basically praying for something that doesn't lead to buying a new motor :/

Response From Discretesignals

I remember reading an article in Motor Age where they had a Saturn with your symptoms. Found a link to the article if you want to read about it.

http://www.searchautoparts.com/motorage/maintenance-repair/out-production?page=0,0

Response From Tom Greenleaf

P0E2005 : No matter what you find it's better to know. ATF (usually reddish) could turn dark if mixed with coolant but generally not so fast. Also know that all the 'rubber' products in cooling system won't like oil in them and ATF is an oil.

Just factor that even if expensive to stop the oil invasion. You could just feel some cooling system hoses and note they are way too soft or perhaps lucky and not enough time to have done that.

Hard stuff at a distance like that to know the best attack. Fix there or somehow get it back locally. Lots is not fun or cheap on top of fixing the problem!

T

Response From P0E2005

Well guys, I have a buddy with a Blazer and a tow bar. So I believe next weekend we're going to run up and haul it back down here where we can actually work with it.

IF it is the Oil Cooler, any of you guys have an idea of about how much that will cost?

Response From Hammer Time

IF it is the Oil Cooler, any of you guys have an idea of about how much that will cost?

Alldata says 5.2 hours

Response From P0E2005

Ok guys, I have another question. I am shopping around for this "Oil Cooler" Online, and upon entering the make and model of the car, the only results are a TRANSMISSION oil cooler. And it doesn't look like the Cooler pictured in the above Diagram, or the Article in the link above. Am I not searching for the right thing?

Response From nickwarner

I went on Ebay and typed 2000 Saturn engine oil cooler. Found several of them, all AC Delco and new. About $190 for any of them.

Response From P0E2005

See, I didn't try Ebay. I don't understand why I can only find it there, none of the other reputable Auto parts sites have it, they have a Transmission oil cooler that runs about $70.

Response From nickwarner

that would do your transmission fine and do nothing to help your engine. Square pegs don't fit in round holes. This engine isn't a small block chevy. Parts aren't cheap and plentiful everywhere you look for them.

Response From Discretesignals

Rockauto sells just the engine oil cooler assembly

AC Delco p/n 13101668

Response From P0E2005

Ok, I am finding it with that part number now. Awesome! :D

I just wish that the ONLY mechanic within distance to service the car was as smart as you guys are.

Here's an excerpt from the conversation on the phone with him:

Him: "Well the cooler would be a Transmission oil cooler, and attached to the radiator, so just buy the whole radiator, they should come together."

Me: "Well....From what I am finding there is a separate engine ENGINE oil cooler, under the intake between the heads. I believe that's what's ruptured."

Him: "Well....If it's separate it wouldn't be causing your oil in the water, because usually the radiator is cracked and it leaks that way..."

Lord help me... :/

Response From nickwarner

Your engine is a Saab design and not a whole lot of them around, so a local independant shop may have never seen this setup before. I've never seen one like it on any of the other engines I've worked on. Go figure the whole brand was discontinued and small wonder why. If there is a shop that specializes in european cars you may find someone who knows exactly what you're talking about.

Response From Double J Top Rated Answer

We used to get the Cateras in all the time with blown engine oil coolers




General Motors' Opel subsidiary in Europe designed a compact V6 engine with an odd 54° vee angle. It was an iron block/aluminum head DOHC design with 4 valves per cylinder. All 54° engines were assembled at Ellesmere Port in England.
This engine was used in American models as well. The engine was reworked substantially between the 3.0 L L81 and 3.2 L LA3, but the bore centers and deck height were retained. In its 3.0 L form, this engine was notable for recalls of all units installed in Cadillac Cateras due to timing belt tensioner bearing failures, which could cause catastrophic damage to the engine because of its interference design



L81 3.0
The L81 was used longitudinally in Cadillac Catera and transversely in the Saturn L-Series, Saturn Vue, Saab 9-5 and Saab 9000. Bore and stroke were 86 mm (3.38 in) × 85 mm (3.35 in), for 2962 cc (180.75 cu in) displacement. with 10.8:1 compression, the engine produced between 182 hp (136 kW) and 208 hp (155 kW) with 190 lb·ft (258 N·m) to 199 lb·ft (270 N·m).
Saab's turbocharged version (referred to by Saab as 'B308') for the Saab 9-5 produced 200 hp (149 kW) at 5000 rpm and 229 lb·ft (310 N·m) at 2500-4000 rpm. The engine was unique in that an asymmetrical turbocharging method was employed with the turbocharger using the exhaust gases from one bank of cylinders and produced a charge pressure of 3.6PSI (.25 Bar) using a Garrett GT17 turbo. Saab equipped the engine with a special version of Saab Direct Ignition and utilized the Trionic T7 engine management system.
This engine was used in:

  • 1997–2001 Cadillac Catera
  • 1996–2000 Opel Sintra Vauxhall Sintra
  • 1995–2000 Opel Omega Vauxhall Omega
  • 1995–1997 Saab 9000
  • 1997–2003 Saab 9-5 (turbocharged)
  • 2000–2005 Saturn L-Series
  • 2002–2003 Saturn Vue

  • Response From P0E2005

    Ok guys, I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place here, and I need some advice.

    I got in touch with a local mechanic, who agreed to use his truck to come and tow the car back to his shop, and look at it for us. AMAZING! Right?

    Well, I made the mistake of saying, "We need to see if we can save it or have to junk it", and it turns out, Mr. Friendly Mechanic ALSO....Junks cars.

    Now that he has the car, I dunno if he's being honest, or trying to get me to scrap the car, or if he's just stupid!

    He called me and said : "I don't really know where the oil is coming from, but with that, the poor interior, and cracked windsheild, I would just scrap it."

    Me: "Have you ruled out a cracked Block or head gasket yet?"

    Him: "No, I can't do that unless I tear it down, replace the gasket, and it still may not fix the problem."

    Me: "Well...General consensus is the oil cooler, I believe that's the problem, can you look at that and see if it's the problem?"

    Him: "Where is the oil Cooler?"

    Me: "Under the intake, between the heads."

    Him: "I can tear it down, probably $150 labor. But if I do get the part out I won't know if it's leaking."

    Me: "You...can apply some air pressure...with some soapy water...and see if it's leaking..."

    Him: "Yea I could do that."

    So that's what's going to happen, $150 for him to get to the part. I am afraid he's conning me. Gonna charge us $150, Tell us it's NOT the problem. And then recommend scrapping, and with the labor we owe him....Get a free car basically...

    What do you guys think? He IS my only option, there is no moving the car, You think he's just stupid? Or conning me?

    Response From nickwarner

    I scrap cars too, and I still give the truth to my customers. I wonder if this guy is though. Seems like he has an eye for it or is incompetent. Either way he isn't the only option. Rent a u-haul dolly and get the thing out of there. Pay him for his time. Then get out of there. If he has to have you tell him there is a cooler under there and tell him how to test it you don't want him to do it.

    Response From P0E2005

    See, the car is 300 miles away. We have thought about renting a Uhaul and Dolly, but that plus round trip gas. If the car DID need to be scrapped. We'd end up in the hole.

    And he was the only choice because the car is in the middle of BFE Missouri, and he was the only mechanic within 50 miles, and agreed to tow it for us.

    I tell myself, that he is just a hometown MOzura Mechanic, used to fords and chevy's, and is maybe just a little confused by the foreign motor, and I HOPE that's all it is. As it stands now, He's pulling down to the part. He's supposed to let me know by wednesday. But I have news for him, In case he is slightly crooked, and is after a free scrap car. IF the oil cooler isn't the problem, which I know it is, but if he tells us it isn't.....I will pay him for his labor, and scrap that car with a competitor right outta his driveway.

    Response From nickwarner

    "If the car needed to be scrapped we'd be in the hole."

    Cars aren't an investment unless you have a model T or a numbers matching Hemi Cuda with 50 miles. They are an expense. a 300 mile road trip isn't much, and worrying about gas mileage and a Uhaul is a minimal expense compared to the local Cletus in BFE tearing up an engine he knows nothing about.

    Get that car out now before he tears it up. He doesn't know what he's working on and will make your nightmare a reality with your wallet on the chopping block. Even if he puts it together who knows what may be surfacing down the road from his work. Pull the pin now and go get it or leave it there and see it recycled into new saran wrap and beer cans.

    Response From P0E2005

    Ok guys, He pulled down to the part, and said you could visibly see the crack with the naked eye. That it IS the problem. Thank goodness. All I need to do is order the part and an Intake gasket and the car will be ok.

    Now before I order this part, I am finding the AC Delco part # to be 13101668. You guys think that is correct? The part search on ACDelco says it fits my model. But for SOME reason Amazon is saying it won't, Figure Amazon may be wrong. You think I should just order it anyway?

    Response From P0E2005

    Links not allowed

    That is the actual link to the part I am wanting to buy.

    Response From P0E2005

    Well gee Hammertime, thanks for swinging by and removing that menacing link, and not to provide any input . lol



    And TECHNICALLY, as it was not clickable, it wasn't a link anyway. It was an address....Just sayin lol

    Response From Hammer Time

    Sarcasm isn't going to get you too far. The only links we allow is the photographs or youtube videos.

    Response From nickwarner

    The Delco number is the right one. Amazon and EBay don't fix cars, and I've seen their compatibilty charts a mile off regularly. Delco made the part, they know what the right number is.

    Response From P0E2005

    I'm sorry Hammertime, lol I was only messing with you. In all seriousness. I can't express to you guys how much you have helped me in this matter. For real. You guys do something really good here.

    I went ahead and ordered the part. It's on it's way there, and we'll see how it goes. :D

    Response From Hammer Time

    You think he's just stupid? Or conning me?

    Probably a little of both. I don't know how you came up with this choice but it sounds like it was a bad one.

    Response From Hammer Time

    Get a good Delco part number and try a search with that.

    Response From P0E2005

    And also, that article pretty much nails what we were experiencing.

    Response From P0E2005

    Oh god...Cracked head. That's a terrifying notion...We actually drove up to a nearby Mechanic and he did say that those engines had TONS of problems.

    If it is in the reservoir and mixed with water. How could I tell whether it's Oil or Tranny fluid? Judging by the color. I am worried it's Oil. But the oil level read ok.

    Also. After it filled with oil when we ran it. I killed it and flushed it again. Completely dry. And filled it back up. And DIDN'T start it up again. When I came back and checked the reservoir. The oil was there again. Without the car even running.....

    Response From Hammer Time

    The color is about the only way to tell between engine oil and trans fluid. The engine oil doesn't have to be low, it only takes a little oil to make a complete mess.

    Response From P0E2005

    See, It's kind of hard to explain. But this wasn't a small amount of oil. I had to throw down Kitty Litter. It was flowing out of the reservoir like a little oil volcano. Went everywhere. If there is a crack somewhere...it is substantial.

    Someone said since it is an Automatic it may have Engine oil coolant lines that may have broken near the radiator?

    Response From Hammer Time

    I don't believe your car has an engine oil cooler but if it does, that's entirely possible.
    Oil floats on water so even a small amount mixed with coolant will seem like a lot and it's very hard to get it all out.

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    Is this car 5 hours away from you? A maybe is if automatic that trans fluid if it uses radiator could be leaking inside to engine coolant - at first would float and be expelled to recovery tank. You would see low trans fluid level with this amount so fast in front of you.

    This car is NOT up to that drive till fixed,

    T

    Response From P0E2005

    We left it there. That's what's making it difficult is that it is so far away and we can't move it till it's addressed.

    Stupid me didn't check the Transmission Fluid. But some of the "Oil" in the reservoir was jet black in color. I figured transmission fluid would be more reddish pink?

    If it is in fact Tranny fluid what would that indicate?

    1955 Ford 2 Door Ranch Wagon/ Has a Vibration

    Showing 2 out of 16 Posts | Show 14 Hidden Posts
    Question From mando1 on 1955 Ford 2 Door Ranch Wagon/ Has a Vibration

    Hello to all of you from Az. This is my first post so I hope that I do it right,if not,excuse me.I have this 55 ford 2 door station wagon.ranch wagon that I bought quite a few years ago and just put it in storage.I now have some time and a few dollars to try to get it going in good shape.I will be keeping this car so I decided to remove the original motor and tranny and replace both.I put in a 302 with a C6 automatic tranny in it and it runs ok,plenty of power but the problem that I have is that I feel some vibration when I rev up the engine or when I am going down the road.The motor itself has been completely rebuilt and so has the tranny.I was thinking that maybe the drive line may be causing the problem but not sure.Sounds to me like something is not balanced.I would like to have some opinions on what may be causing the problem.The motor and tranny are both out of a 1967 ford station wagon.I can run at 65 miles per hour and I can feel the vibration.
    Has plenty of power,just not a smooth ride.
    Thanks to all for your help and suggestions.
    Mando

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    Mando - find out what you have. Ford didn't make a 302 in 1967! That if OE would be a 289 that looks about the same. They did make the C-6 trans. Learn that trans too. It should be dual range for "Drive" meaning you just choose all gears or just 2nd and third for traction wouldn't use first so you don't spin wheels when even wet roads.


    This must have had work to driveshaft to fit in. High chance there's your problem. Two types, four u-joints or two. Two together means it's a CV joint and those all stunk.


    Driveshaft would be balanced or whip around without seeing it but feel it in floorboards a bit or whole car.


    Tough swap from '55 to '67 IMO. Lots of thought goes into how to support trans, and do the driveshaft and keep it in balance.


    If it once was good it's probably just a bad u-joint now or bearing.


    It has to all be custom so would help to know how it was done,


    T
    (edit again) Fords - almost all in those years were VERY sensitive to wheel lug torque and order of tightening. Done wrong you easily bent wheels or didn't set on properly. You would notice this with 15" wheels at exactly 65 MPH when that happened if wheel or driveshaft out of whack when orginals now altered just means you need to know what it is now........

    Response From mando1

    Thank you very much Tom for your reply with this question.Sorry,I did make a typo.The motor came out of a 1968 and not a 67.Yes,we did have to make some changes to the drive line to fit so it might be the problem.Like I mentioned in my post,I can feel the vibration even when the car is not running,just increasing the RPM will cause the vibration.Also,it can be felt when its down the road.I feel the vibration on the floor board,right underneath the gas paddle.So,eventhough its felt with the car parked,can it still be the drive line? Also,I knew that the original rear axle/rear end,would be geared too low for the 302 and C6 tranny,I replaced it with one of a later model.Can the drive line be balanced to perform better? Thanks again for your help or anyone else in the group that has any tips or idea's on this problem.
    Mando

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    To be clear - you can feel this without the car moving? The driveshaft isn't moving at all so not that if sitting still. Except for dripping out the back of trans you could take it out.
    Note - driveshaft does spin with the rate of the rear differential which is normal - gear ratios not a cause alone.


    So, if vibration while not moving what is moving is parts of engine* ring gear for starter, torque converter and front pump of transmission.
    * On engine you have a lower front pulley called a "Harmonic Balancer" that even this vintage can come apart and is a critical balancer for the engine. You don't see it at a glance when intact but inside metal isolated by rubber then heavy outer ring absorbs the "resonant" frequency that a running engine makes. At least glance at it while idling to see belts in perfect alignment and no wobble there. If (think timing marks are on outer metal of this damper/balancer) are all off it may have slipped but stayed in line with a common ignition timing check.
    That sucker is real important to the engine. Not witnessed but in tech school showed an engine explode with one missing on purpose to demonstrate!


    Again - let's NOT focus on driveshaft but parts that move and can make a vibration while car is sitting still as listed already.


    Other would be is the engine on rubber mounts completely now or only part isolated by motor mounts? About any engine if bolted into cradle and not buffered by mounts would have to cause weird feelings or some vibration as they aren't that well balanced,


    T

    Response From mando1

    Thank you kindly Tom. You have made some really good points here.I am going to take a look at the harmonic balancer and see if I notice any wobble or something out of the ordinary.So, the drive line is out of the question and therefore,not a suspect.I have a question for you on the Torque Converter.Please Keep in mind that I am a novice at this but I am willing to learn.When installing the torque converter,do you match it to the Tranny,or the Engine size? I would say the tranny but would like to know for sure.I hope that I am not asking a stupid question here.
    Mando

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    Arggh. Good questions and short of exact answers. Harmonic Balancer TMK is matched to the engine. Might have come with or without A/C, PS even in '68 including full size cars. Trans options would also include C-4s, and 3 and think a possible 4 spd standard trans.


    Did engine and trans come out of the same vehicle and do you know what it was? I just never had to think of matching a balancer and a torque converter before rather put back what was known to be OE if needed. Both are balanced new. If put in with a standard trans it would have a torque converter but rather a balanced flywheel so I have to think the important part that is most likely to cause a vibration would be the balancer and almost certainly be visibly not turning true as that is firmly pressed on to the engine's crankshaft.


    Oh boy. I recall people who wanted to beef up performance putting on what is called a "high stall" torque converter meaning if fighting brakes and engine would quit to a lock at a higher RPM a bit like part riding a clutch for beating the hell of cars which was popular for those days. Then again why mess with a wimpy 302 when nuke power was all over the place?


    For now just check the front balancer for anything odd. Any info or history that you know of that might matter let us know that.


    I can only say I've personally never known of a torque converter being found as the cause of a vibration except those that lock up and they didn't do that near 1968 TMK.


    Do know those C-6 transmissions do adjust for shift times and bands are supposed to be periodically adjusted - neither of which caused vibrations if not done.


    Again so no mistakes. THIS VIBRATES WITH THE CAR SITTING STILL - RIGHT?


    T

    Response From mando1

    Hello Tom and everyone else here in the forum. I checked everything that was mentioned here in my posting and could not see any obvious problems within the engine.I decided to go ahead and replace the harmonic balancer over the weekend and guess what,the vibration is gone.
    It really sounds and feels a lot better than before.Now, I am going to replace some of the old wiring,which is kind of brittle and some of the insulation has come apart.I was moving some wires around yesterday and 3 wires came loose and looks like they are going to the heater control assembly.I need to know which one goes where.Does anyone here have the Electrical wiring diagram fro the 55 ford station wagon or can tell me where I can find and purchase the diagram so that I can re-do the wiring.Thanks for all your help.
    Mando

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    SO GLAD TO HEAR THAT WORKED, HAD TO BE THE ISSUE.
    Wiring etc? Insulation about can't be that great but the wire inside was superior for 1955. Hmmm - If it's all still there why not just follow them one by one even hunting down correct colors?


    You can buy wiring split plastic to hide where it should be and placed where it was too. Orig might even be some almost cotton type stuff probably gone?


    If things are all working now I'd take time to find the right wire which is not close to all equal. I think most Fords in 1955 were 6v, negative ground and could be changed to 12v now?


    If it was 6v you should notice the gauge was about double that of what an OE 12v would be. It also would be real copper wire and fine strands. It matters that it's automotive grade and hopefully copper and now harder to find fine stranded inside wire. Reason is it bends and bends, tolerates vibrations, heat and cold tons better.
    Seriously hope you have some time to find what you need. IDK why you need diagrams if you do this one by one checking each time one is done?


    This wire and grade of it thing: Try this: Take some junk (if available free somewhere) home toaster, or clothes iron and check out the wire vs wire for a table lamp. The two are totally different new stuff clearly marked in fine hard to see ratings. Toaster wire is bendy, tolerate higher heat. OK - you won't find that in colors - tried - forget it.


    Might find rolls of stuff on line someplace just know how much you need. High bet connections and plug ends could be reused and were brass which will take solder and always shrink wrap over your work.


    Just maybe you can find an entire harness ready to go or be made up special? Try checking out www.hemmingsmotornews.com for stuff like this or not that long ago found a paper copy of that at a Walgreens no less!


    Been a while since last restoration of old and this way beat how old and actually didn't need to redo much wiring - just short areas.


    Sorry for the book but it's worth the time to do it right and have no disasters.


    I'm thrilled at the good news on the vibration and hope that stays gone forever for you. Zooming in on some of that isn't always very easy unless those are about falling off,


    Tom

    Response From mando1

    Thanks again Tom for your help.I will see if I can figure out the wiring on this wagon.
    Mando

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    Good luck. The harder you try and the moe you know the better the luck - sometimes


    Tom

    Response From mando1

    Good Morning Friends.
    Ok, I have changed all the bad wiring in this car and all is working good.Now, I wanted to see how bad the floor pan was and it has a bad rusty spot on the driver and passenger sides.This bad area is about 8 or 10 inches but the rest looks kind of bad too.My question is? What gauge of sheet metal is used to replace the bad areas and also,do they have to be welded or can it be put in there with rivets.I have never done one before so don't know.If they have to be welded,than I will have to get somebody to do it for me,I cannot weld at all.Do any of you know where I may be able to find this floor pans for this 55 ford Ranchwagon/Mainline 2 Door?I'll probably end up taking to a body shop to have this done for me.Thanks for all your suggestions on this matter.
    Mando

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    The end answer already is a body shop.
    Slow today so will share some on rust, fixes and approaches. I doubt a LOT you'll find pre-made stamped metal to just weld in for this car. If a '55 T-Bird bet you could.


    8X10 do you mean inches and by bad a hole or weak? Seen from underside or under whatever flooring used in this? You said it's still not great beyond that.


    Gauge? Possibly 16 or 18 gauge as a guess only. Available in sheets at many hardware stores last seen were about 2X3 foot sheets, plain steel meaning not special in any way like galvanized or stainless.


    Know this: It's about impossible to kill rust as it's behavior is like cancer. It really must be cut out back to unrusted metal to be the best fix then coated with an appropriate primer and paint or more depending.


    It's critical to know if it's a structural issue or mostly obnoxious?


    Pics would help tons but a body shop seeing it with suggestions on the fix and include how good looking you want it also will matter.


    If it needs to be shaped to fit it can be but nice to have the tools and equipment for that.


    You can watch or look for assorted repair done on a site like YouTube but each situation will be unique for right fix for strength so this ends where I started, let a body tech take a look and suggest approaches and an idea of how much for what you can do or how much they would want to do it if that shop would at all.


    IDK - AZ is pretty rust free so might have to ask a shop who would take it on depending on exactly what you mean by bad what it really is,


    T

    Response From mando1

    Thanks Tom. The 2 rust areas that I mentioned are about 8"x10" on the floor pan on each side,driver and passenger.At first I thought the complete floor was bad because it looked like rust but is was not,it was some kind of yellow glue that somebody used for the rubber mat.
    I took it to a body shop where I know the owner pretty good and after seeing the car,he said he could cut and weld some metal plates to cover the bad areas,or He could replace the complete floor pan if I was willing to spend the money.However,he said repairing it would be fine.
    So, I am going to drop it off next week and let him fix it for me.He is also going to sand blast and powder coat the frame in black.He does good work so I'm sure it will come out nice.

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    Mando - sounds great. Pro body shop is the way to go. The equipment, space, tools and experience up to know when if a horror to quit with that one.


    Sounds a lot better and the place gave you choice of the approach - perfect.


    For yourself or to share take some pics before and after and the whole car if you can and wish.


    A two door "Wagon" has some interest value IMO if nothing else,


    Tom

    Response From mando1

    Ok, my car is in the hospital ( Body Shop) and will be there for up to a month so I guess I will have some time to read some posts here and learn as much as I can from the Pro's here. I took a picture of (Before) and when I get it all done,I will post a picture of the (After) so that everyone here can see my 2 door wagon.Thanks for your help given when needed.
    Mando

    Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

    This is the "Antique" Car Talk spot on this site so I can and do plenty of keyboard chat.


    Cars mechanical and some funky upholstery fixes were about as far out in the many trades of cars/vehicles. Welding and finish body work I sent out if fine to perfect work (appearance and or frame rust safety fabrication) on vehicles to keep as long as possible. It is impossible to drive a vehicle in New England Winters with the salted roads and keep a car for endless decades. Two of last three junked had rusted so bad I was buying bondo by the gallon can, sheets of metal then down to any dang fix to get that one more year. See the rear tires thru the trunk type bad rust! Oddly floors stayed fine some frames in front of rear wheels done a few times at I'll call a torque box area that needs to be totally strong.


    Have owned more cars than many car dealers! Whacked as took interest and spent way too much on cars of little wild interest like say a 1964 Mustang, '57 Chevy or '59 Eldorado Biarritz (must be red, white convertible w white leather) if a wish.


    Best lookers were a boring '77 Ford Landau? Not a mark saying it was just a loaded up LTD - just liked the dang thing. A '79 last year monster Continental (when full size) with a sunroof so big and color was so wild had to do that one up to about new.
    A '70 Olds 98 only of interest because it was a 2dr with a special, rare, Rocket 455 with obscene power. Fun because never into the muscle car thing to have some boring (to many) car that would suck a road burning muscle car thru the grille and spit out molden metal out it's tail pipes! Did up the last model year '69 Continental to have "suicide doors" no option car but to run and look as new. Last unit body full size monster with wild HP too but so heavy you really needed it. What a pig! 5MPG was common!
    Things went in phases. Had an itch for AMC Ramblers for a while the uglier the better. The Mopar days just because? Darts, Valiants too many to count, a Polara like that Police type looking thing "One Adam 12" if you recall?


    Bring on the Cadillacs! Fav was '67 Fleetwood Brougham 75 model body so loaded with options is was nuts. EIGHT power windows in the thing. Pic-nic tables with tissue holders like first class airline seats for rear passengers. Dial you speed cruise control was funky. Gave up on Caddys when they downsized. Last good ones were 1972 and never owned one.


    The T-Bird era. OMG - only year I loved and were lookers. 1966 the best of the years for the transmission, first real good shifting automatics came out that year. Overhead consoles. Low, heavy w thick unit body chassis would fly and ride like a cloud both. Power windows so fast they could cut your arm off if not careful.


    Never owned NEW anything so easier to find better vehicles that were not intended to be road burners nor interested in that.


    Gettin' old now Mando - next may be new and a small box on wheels with no frills.


    Good luck with the body work fix. a month seems like a long time but depends on what you asked for at what cost,


    Tom