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Walker
1996 Buick LeSabre Exhaust Tail Pipe 6 Cyl 3.8L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-3E62BBD    52113  New

Qty:
$35.27
Walker Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • If welded assembly, replace all required parts.
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: A
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.000
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Max Year Covered: 1999
    • Min Year Covered: 1996
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Buick Lesabre
    • Most Popular Year: 1997
    • Outlet Connection Type: Spout
    • Overall Length: 16.500
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 325790
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1996 - Buick LeSabre V 6 Cyl 3.8L 231 3800
Walker
1982 Buick LeSabre Exhaust Tail Pipe 8 Cyl 5.0L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-57CE901    46550  New

Qty:
$25.53
Walker Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: C
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.250
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.250
    • Max Year Covered: 1990
    • Min Year Covered: 1977
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chevrolet Caprice
    • Most Popular Year: 1989
    • Outlet Connection Type: Spout
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.250
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Overall Length: 61.125
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 106174
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1982 - Buick LeSabre V 8 Cyl 5.0L 307 -
Walker
1984 Buick Skyhawk Exhaust Tail Pipe 4 Cyl 2.0L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-0401BA6    41299  New

Qty:
$9.29
Walker Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • Except Early Models with Muffler Body Strap; Aluminized; Single Outlet; If welded assembly, replace all required parts.
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: B
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.000
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Fitment: Universal
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Max Year Covered: 1994
    • Min Year Covered: 1984
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chevrolet Cavalier
    • Most Popular Year: 1991
    • Outlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Overall Length: 10.000
    • Product Description: Tail Spout
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 79128
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
1984 - Buick Skyhawk Coupe Naturally Aspirated L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 -
Walker
1982 Buick Regal Exhaust Tail Pipe 6 Cyl 3.8L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-2914B75    43828  New

Qty:
$12.46
Walker Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • If welded assembly, replace all required parts.; Late Design; Bracket welded on bottom of Pipe.
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: D
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.000
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Fitment: Direct Fit
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Max Year Covered: 1988
    • Min Year Covered: 1982
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chevrolet Monte Carlo
    • Most Popular Year: 1987
    • Outlet Connection Type: Spout
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Overall Length: 24.643
    • Pipe Thickness: 0.054
    • Product Description: Tail Pipe
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 136322
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Block Engine CID CC
1982 - Buick Regal RWD V 6 Cyl 3.8L 231 3800
Walker
1985 Buick Somerset Regal Exhaust Tail Pipe 4 Cyl 2.5L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-0401BA6    41299  New

Qty:
$9.29
Walker Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • Aluminized; If welded assembly, replace all required parts.
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: B
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.000
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Fitment: Universal
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Max Year Covered: 1994
    • Min Year Covered: 1984
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chevrolet Cavalier
    • Most Popular Year: 1991
    • Outlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Overall Length: 10.000
    • Product Description: Tail Spout
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 79128
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1985 - Buick Somerset Regal L 4 Cyl 2.5L 151 2474
Walker
1988 Buick Skyhawk Exhaust Tail Pipe 4 Cyl 2.0L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-0401BA6    41299  New

Qty:
$9.29
Walker Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • Except High Output; Aluminized; Single Outlet; If welded assembly, replace all required parts.
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: B
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.000
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Fitment: Universal
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Max Year Covered: 1994
    • Min Year Covered: 1984
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chevrolet Cavalier
    • Most Popular Year: 1991
    • Outlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Overall Length: 10.000
    • Product Description: Tail Spout
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 79128
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Engine VIN Block Engine CID CC
1988 - Buick Skyhawk Coupe K L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 -
Walker
1987 Buick Skyhawk Exhaust Tail Pipe 4 Cyl 2.0L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-0401BA6    41299  New

Qty:
$9.29
Walker Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • Aluminized; Single Outlet; If welded assembly, replace all required parts.
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: B
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.000
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Fitment: Universal
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Max Year Covered: 1994
    • Min Year Covered: 1984
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chevrolet Cavalier
    • Most Popular Year: 1991
    • Outlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Overall Length: 10.000
    • Product Description: Tail Spout
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 79128
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Engine VIN Block Engine CID CC
1987 - Buick Skyhawk Coupe 1 L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 -
Walker
1986 Buick Skyhawk Exhaust Tail Pipe 4 Cyl 2.0L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-0401BA6    41299  New

Qty:
$9.29
Walker Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • Aluminized; Excludes Early Models w/Muffler Body Strap; Single Outlet; If welded assembly, replace all required parts.
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: B
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.000
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Fitment: Universal
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Max Year Covered: 1994
    • Min Year Covered: 1984
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Chevrolet Cavalier
    • Most Popular Year: 1991
    • Outlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Outlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Overall Length: 10.000
    • Product Description: Tail Spout
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 79128
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
1986 - Buick Skyhawk Sedan Naturally Aspirated L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 -
Walker
1993 Buick LeSabre Exhaust Tail Pipe 6 Cyl 3.8L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-02FA678    42234  New

Qty:
$25.25
Walker Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: C
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.000
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Fitment: Direct Fit
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Max Year Covered: 1995
    • Min Year Covered: 1992
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Buick Lesabre
    • Most Popular Year: 1995
    • Outlet Connection Type: Spout
    • Overall Length: 17.250
    • Product Description: Pipe
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 163756
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1993 - Buick LeSabre V 6 Cyl 3.8L 231 3800
Walker
1994 Buick LeSabre Exhaust Tail Pipe 6 Cyl 3.8L Walker - Walker Tail Pipe

P311-02FA678    42234  New

Qty:
$25.25
Walker Exhaust Tail Pipe
  • If welded assembly, replace all required parts.
  • Walker Tail Pipe
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: C
    • Diámetro de entrada: 2.000
    • Finish: Aluminized
    • Fitment: Direct Fit
    • Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Inlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Inlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Max Year Covered: 1995
    • Min Year Covered: 1992
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Buick Lesabre
    • Most Popular Year: 1995
    • Outlet Connection Type: Spout
    • Overall Length: 17.250
    • Product Description: Pipe
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 163756
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1994 - Buick LeSabre V 6 Cyl 3.8L 231 3800

Latest Buick Repair and Tail Pipe Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1988 buick park avenue

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From stobias on 1988 buick park avenue

my car has had a burnt valve for a couple of weeks...theres almost 310,000 miles on the engine. yesterday, it started to "miss" at a stop sign. at the next stop sign, it was cutting out really bad, then it died. it wouldnt start for a couple of hours, and when it did, its smoking horribly out of the tail pipe, backfiring, using an amazing amount of gas, and has no power. it shakes real bad, but it has been doing that since the burnt valve. whats wrong with my car????

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

That burned valve if able to make the engine shake, loss of power, and smoke out the exhaust probable stress out engine controls too and this is no doubt so expensive to fix it is probably a good time to give up on this car, T

M.A.F sensor issue... Please help

Showing 3 out of 17 Posts | Show 14 Hidden Posts
Question From dannynvpro on M.A.F sensor issue... Please help

I have a 2002 buick rendevues with 130 miles (3.4L 2x4). It started Reving up really high (past 4000 rpms) and stalling sometimes. I pulled the code and it stated p0101 mass or volume airflow malfunction. I checked the vacuum line on the tube that connects between the throttle body and the airbox, it has good vacume. The air filter is also clean. I cleaned the maf sensor with no success. I unplugged it and it still ran like crap. I then bought a cheaper maf sensor at pep boys and replaced it, still didn't help after diving for a day. I bought a better more expensive maf sensor and that didn't help either. What I found very odd is after replacing it 12 new codes popped up. When I clear the codes with the scanner the car runs perfect with the new maf sensor. 10 minutes later the check engine light will pop back on, then the car will stall and run like crap again. It's not drivable at this point. I can, but it puts a lot of stress on the car and revs very high.

Response From Hammer Time

You are getting unmetered air in there from somewhere. The first sting to check is the intake snorkel for any tears or leaks of any kind between the MAF and the throttle body.

Response From dannynvpro

You are getting unmetered air in there from somewhere. The first sting to check is the intake snorkel for any tears or leaks of any kind between the MAF and the throttle body.

I checked and it is secure and tight with no possible passage for air to bypass the maf sensor. After replacing the maf I am getting p0101 and p0102, before it was just the p0101. Thanks for taking the time to help me.

Response From GC

Closely look at the connector for the maf and make sure that its in good shape. Check ALL vacuum lines. Ive had the one on the top of the throttle body give me problems, as its hard to see it under a bracket. Do you have a digital multimeter? Does your scanner show live data?

Response From dannynvpro

The connections look good it almost seems like something is giving it a false reading. I checked with the multi that has a hertz setting and it is stable at idle and increases as I jump the rpms up, seems to be doing what it should. Could the pcm throw a maf code? Any other sensors? I'm at a loss.

Response From Hammer Time

There may be a problem elsewhere in the circuit.

Make sure you have "key on" power on the pink wire and ground on the blk/wht wire.

Response From dannynvpro

I did, I followed a detailed step by step on it...

Response From Hammer Time

You might want to check your exhaust for restriction and excessive backpressure. Air won't come in if it can't get out.

Response From dannynvpro

A day prior to the problem I had my car on a lift and had to cut the tail pipe off because it was pinched almost shut after the muffler. The rest of my exhaust was good. Strange that it happened a day after that though. It was literally only the last 5 inches of my tail pipe.

Response From Hammer Time

You don't know that. You have no idea if your converter is restricted unless you took a pressure test.

Response From dannynvpro

I really doubt it's my cat I replaced them about 8 months ago with brand new ones because they were throwing codes and I couldn't pass emissions. That problem has been fixed and it has been less then a week since this problem has happened. I didn't replace them with cheap ones either. All the advice you have given has been great but I've tried all that, I am pretty knowledgeable on fixing cars and have done all repairs on my vehicles any time a problem has risen, I must say this time I am stumped though. I really appreciate your on going help. Thanks again.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Don't guess, test for back pressure. That bent tail pipe may not have been the only problem and may have caused another,


T

Response From dannynvpro

I will update you when I do, hopefully tomorrow. I have access to a garage where I can do it for free with the proper equipment. Thanks.

Response From Hammer Time

You can also check for backpressure using a vacuum gauge

Measure direct port vacuum and you should have something around 18-20". Slowly bring the throttle up to around 2500RPMs and see if the vacuum drops off substantially.

Response From dannynvpro

Vacume pressure was good today and we thoroughly checked for vacuume leaks. I read that my car has a map sensor too. I thought it had either a maf or map not both. I'm going to pick up a new map sensor and give it a try. What do you think?

Response From Discretesignals

The MAP sensor on that engine is used to measure barometric pressure and to act as a back up when the MAF sensor signal is lost. Don't think I have ever seen a MAP sensor go bad on those.

Have you cleaned the throttle body? I don't see how an exhaust restriction or vacuum leak would make the engine idle up to 4 K. You may need to bring it to a shop and have them connect a scan tool up to monitor datastream information. Maybe they can pick out something to get direction in determining the culprit.

Response From GC

Does this garage have a smoke machine? If so smoke that thing for leaks.

My never ending nightmare...Please help!

Showing 6 out of 6 Posts
Question From ihatemycar4 on My never ending nightmare...Please help!

I have a 1999 Buick Century Limited 3.1 with 149,000 miles on it.

:mad:

So in the last 2 months or so I have replaced the engine mounts/transmission mount and front end suspension as well as the return hose on the power steering (longer hose still leaking), put in some Lucas Rack/Pinion Stop Leak but my Rack and Pinion is leaking, a new brake line and a rear driver side linkage (because the towing company broke it when it got towed)....about $1500 in repairs on a car that has 149k miles on it...I don't have $$ to keep pouring in this (credit card limits are reaching max) but I don't have $$ to purchase a new car...

I mean where does it end...

Well it doesn't.

Recently my car has been running warmer than normal, not quite overheating, but running warmer than normal. I also have been getting a strong fuel/exhaust smell from the tail pipe. I took it to get looked over and was told it was my fuel lines, another place told me it was my fuel filler neck, and another place told me that it is likely due to my Air to Fuel ratio is off. I was also told I need a coolant flush and thermostat replacement. The same place told me that they would put in BG 44K fuel system cleaner and then some Ethanol protectant as well totalling $420. Owner told me it would be $350 for flush and thermostat change and then $70-80 to put the cleaner in my fuel system. Get out of here with that crap.

So I went to Advanced Auto, got a new air filter, CRC MAF Sensor Cleaner, a new radiator cap because my old one was not staying put correctly, and some Techron fuel system cleaner because it almost has the same ingredients as the BG 44K which I can't find anywhere.

So I put the Techron fuel cleaner in, filled my gas tank up and came home. I took apart the MAF housing unit and sprayed it with the CRC Cleaner as directed and let it dry for an hour. I then changed the radiator cap which I realized had some black thick sludge on the top.

I reassembled the MAF unit. Started the car up. Went to go smell my exhaust. What do I see?

White smoke coming from the tail pipe and condensation on the black top. Are you freaking kidding me?

So I thought maybe I didn't put the MAF sensor assembly back correctly. I took it apart and put it back together. I did this 3 times.

Start the car. Still getting white smoke. I sit in the car while it is running and press down the gas. More white smoke comes out of the tail pipe when I hit the gas pedal. Great.

I am thinking maybe a blown head gasket? I let the car run for a while and still noticed a strong fuel/exhaust smell from the tailpipe along with the smoke. I checked my oil level on the dip stick....not milky. I took off the oil filler cap and did notice a little steam coming out.

I checked the coolant reservoir and it doesn't smell like exhaust.

Car still running warmer than usual.

Any ideas what is going on? Is the MAF sensor causing this? I don't have a CEL.

Maybe I have had a blown head gasket this entire time and that has been what is causing the car to run rich and warmer than normal??

I guess I will just try and drive it a mile down the road (I don't feel safe driving it further than that) to the mechanic and Monday but I really can't take it anymore. This is one never ending nightmare.

TL;DR - Tried to do clean my MAF, change radiator cap and put Techron fuel system cleaner in as well as air filter and now my car is blowing white smoke with strong gas/fuel smell coming from tailpipe. Big wet mark under tailpipe. Smoke get's worse when I hit the gas pedal. What is going on?

Response From Discretesignals

How does the engine run while the smoke show is going on? You should still scan the engine computer to see if any trouble codes are stored.


White smoke can be a few things.

(1) steam from condensation in the exhaust being burned off. You may notice water dripping from the exhaust. More common in cold humid conditions.

(2) coolant leaking into combustion chambers. The exhaust will have a sweet smell to it and you may notice a loss of coolant. If it severe enough, the engine may misfire.

(3) raw fuel. This is rare but if you have an injector stuck open or enough raw fuel getting into the exhaust from misfiring or some other means, you may see white smoke. The white smoke is actually fuel vapor. It will burn your eyes and will definitely have the smell of fuel.

Response From ihatemycar4

Thank you for taking time to answer my question.

1. I would hope this to be the case, but unfortunately it is about 75-80 degrees here now with little to no humidity

2. This is what I am fearing. Coolant in the combustion chamber is a BIG problem.

3. This is interesting to me because the white smoke started after I put the Techron in as well as filling up my gas tank. I very rarely put more than 5 gallons at a time in my car (broke college student) so maybe I have had an injector stuck open and that could be what is causing the strong exhaust/fuel smell out of the tail pipe, and now the white smoke.

Is it common for fuel additives to create white smoke out of tailpipe?

Is there a test I can do myself or ask a mechanic to do?

Here is a picture of something I saw when I was doing some inspection. This was under the coolant tank..looks pretty milky. Also there is a great amount of wetness now under the tailpipe that dampens the blacktop.

?1

What does that look like to you?

I am unsure if I should drive it to a mechanic blowing white smoke or call around shops I haven't yet been to and see if they will agree to do diagnostics before they guess what the problem is and then have it towed.

Life has been a mess recently and the timing couldn't be more awful. College is just around the corner and it's a commuter school so transportation is key. As is maintaining my longest distance relationship, and getting rides to doctor's appointments as I have been battling some serious health issues.

Again, many thanks for your time and advice it is much appreciated!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK - It's not condensation and makes noted wetness on asphalt. This has to be loosing coolant (check at radiator not just tank) or as VERY capable DS mentioned the other possible things. Fuel overload would or IMO be more obvious if so much it's dripping engine and more self destructing and you don't need that nor anyone.


I totally understand $$ being an issue but think just ask a pro to take a good look, codes and get a diagnosis so you know what you are dealing with and a guess what it would cost.


Not the place you went before from that read - try another. Rock and hard place, it can't stay like this and getting more expensive without question causing harm now if used too much longer like it is,


T

Response From ihatemycar4

Thanks for your suggestions.

What would make the asphalt wet and white smoke to appear out of the tailpipe? Again, the smoke gets worse when the gas pedal is pressed.

How do I check the radiator for coolant loss?

When my intake manifold gasket was leaking I was bleeding coolant like you wouldn't believe. So far I do not have any external leaks that I can see.

I do not have a CEL light on so I hope that is good.

I would like to use someone's OBDII scanner to see if i can read the fuel trims.

I have lost faith in the last 5-6 shops I have taken my car to get looked at or worked on. There are not many options left to be honest. It is extremely hard to find a good honest shop that will go the extra mile to find out what is wrong with your car and correct it. Again, the timing of all this could not be worse.

Thanks for your answers and time.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

DS (means Discretesignals) was on this a few posts back but I'm here so will suggest something anyway.
#1 is sorry you've had bad luck with shops finding answers/diagnose it but don't quit - ask around for yet another if need be.


This wetness like water. Try putting some on a paper towel. If you have and should have antifreeze mix in system wet towel and note how fast it dries. Antifreeze mix will not dry so fast at all - that's one answer towards the issue.


It about has to have codes and places like Autozone do this for free but get the #s found not their idea of what to do or buy.


Check if the CEL light even works? Just with key on run without starting it should light as a bulb test function. There can be codes even without it lit when running in wait but you have some clear troubles with this smoke thing which probably is a head gasket job you don't want the expense of. Don't make it worse by trying sealers that claim then can fix that as they both will NOT AND cause more problems!


Take radiator cap off and look in radiator for level. It should be airless and full up. A radiator cap alone can fail such that it might hold pressure but not vacuum to draw back coolant from the tank so could appear fine and be low for real and that's a problem of course.


This smoke coming from something even if colors and odor isn't helping white is usually coolant/water issues. It's not cold enough for the condensation thing with temps you mentioned.


If this is fuel dumping making smoke it's trouble for cylinder washing off oil that lubes it and can make oil level too full all depending.


You said bucks were a huge issue. Understood. Pressure testing you could do if again a place like Autozone will rent you one. Gotta ask. The places do that with 100% deposits for the thing for safe return.


Then you could begin some fact finding yourself. Sorry I can't read this whole thread while replying but can you pull spark plugs and do this pressure test? If a cylinder is soaked or more than one it should show on spark plug especially with pressure test but they could be telling of other as well. They should all look about the same is the idea.


Trying to think up things you can do cheap or free here. After knowing coolant is full at radiator you could or should wash the cap which may be helpful or new if you can't test it. From cold feel pressure in upper radiator hose for pressure before starting. Start it and feel for pressure to build. It's not all that fast so if just a minute and it feels tighter w pressure that isn't good. As system warms it should hold pressure just from expansion of the coolant and needs to.


Unfortunately I still think the issue is head gasket(s) and gets pricey. I just can't think of a way out if that, that isn't going to cost bucks - up there sometimes if done properly and not so DIY friendly.


You need to know somehow so you can make a plan. There's not a lot of faking it depending on the problem but if in fact head gasket the pressure cap isn't helping the consumption so would smoke less with no pressure by way of cutting or disabling a cap to not hold pressure which is hacking it as you need it to hold pressure because normal and needed operating temps are close to the boiling point and the pressure raises the temp coolant will boil - by 3 degrees F. per lb. rating of the pressure cap if working.


Bubbles of boiling don't cool! That's the issue with that.


Again - you've got to know if just to plan on how to deal with this and get to school. Tough to make decent bucks AND college at the same time - I feel for you and trying. You know best what some plan "B" might be if this turns out way too expensive,


T

1982 Ford Granada 3.3L A few million miles?

Showing 2 out of 9 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From irishmantx on 1982 Ford Granada 3.3L A few million miles?

Dear Group,

1982 Ford Granada 3.3L engine. Oily soot found coming out of the tail pipe, and
uses oil more often than used to. (long skid mark / sooty oil stain) from the
exhaust pipe. Original engine since 1982, possibly warning sign engine might
go? It's used heavily and takes me to work back and forth serving as the only
family 'back up' car. (odometer has rolled a few times since original 25,000 miles
back in 1984.)

Is this a sign of bad times for this engine? This particular engine was assembled
in Canada, smooth good solid running engine. If possible, I rather go with a good
long block.

Things done to this car.

Replaced battery, MT-56 Interstate. Replaced Alternator, Water pump (at same time)
radiator hoses, belts, rear brakes (L/R), front disk brake line hose (L/R), coil springs
(x4 w/air conditioner), rear shocks, front struts, thermostat replaced, carb replaced,
front weather strip (L/R) replaced, ignition module, voltage regulator, negative battery
cable electrically taped black since it was originally 'red' possibly mistake of positive cable.
Wheel bearings serviced, rack and pinion steering unit replaced, and head lamps replaced.

Oily sooty exhaust noticeable after idle and running the engine, leaving approx 1 to 2 foot
long 'skid mark' or 'skid stain' on ground / floor of garage. Uses oil more frequently as it
takes a quart every week or after heavy use. Possible warning sign of engine failure?

Shalom,

irishmantx
76531




Response From Tom Greenleaf

? Some confusion with just what this engine is. Is this the 200 CID straight six with one bbl carb? I just looked up a valve cover gasket with mixed info. 3.3 should = 200 CID inch and gasket like this.................

/


With the miles it's hard to say as so many things are possible. Any blue smoke? If any smoke out tailpipe what color? Does this oily soot run out tailpipe leaving a streaked mix of part burned oil and gas - did I understand that properly?

Is is running well now despite the mess it makes? What's taxing my mind is IF it runs on all six cyl. and doesn't smoke than a fair amount of raw fuel or oil is getting in the exhaust. Using some oil at VERY high miles isn't totally amazing nor means there isn't more left to go.

Lots to think about with this. Some engines will put out a trail a water from condensation in the cold exhaust but mostly when colder, humid air and would be dirty but would quit it when warmed up.

Could be sludge if any now not be allowing oil return to pan and valve guides are sucking down oil way too fast but if running well that would smoke and make a scene. You can get a good idea sometimes about sludge just looking in oil fill cap or take valve cover off for a real good look.

IMO if engine has to go the head need be in same condition or reworked. I didn't find reman whole engine available but they should be but not common parts houses. Used at the age would be rare to find a known good whole engine but if diagnosis shows this one is that worn I'd ask a reputable salvage yard for exact fit replacement.

It probably is worth paying for a professional diagnosis, compression and other observations to declare engine's needs.

Sorry for the long response - this has so many possibilities by age and miles it's an open book without some serious diagnostics,

Tom

Response From irishmantx

Dear Tom,

That looks about right!! Some blue smoke does puff out... To be honest, it runs 'OK' BUT....
Since the engine is original, and it takes more oil than normal, leaving a 1 to 2 foot stain of
streaking oil / exhaust soot, I surmise this engine is tired.

I rather get total complete long block with a warranty. I could get her over to a shop for
a full compression and engine diagnostic. At least see where I stand on the shape of this
engine. Or g-d forbid, engine goes, then get her towed. I told my dad (who owns the car)
about this.

One bit of good news, I got the new computer box w/chip back into my 1988 GMC S15
and it 'appears' to run smoothly. Got to test a few more times at certain times the truck
acts up and breaks down. :P So far so good. I hope, fingers crossed.. toes crossed, knocking
on all kinds of wood. lol

Well, I thought it could be something serious about the oily sooty exhaust. I never see this
car act that way. It runs a bit louder, takes more oil than normal, and now I remember I see
piddle leaks toward the front and back of the engine. Like 3 to 6 piddles of oil toward the front,
and 2 to 4 piddles of oil toward the back of the engine. Not sure if it's valve cover or gasket
warped and going bad. When I start the engine, it makes a rattle rattle noise... then goes away.
Belts squeal and hard to keep speed when I get past Warp 7 (70 mph) it shakes, may need front
end alignment, and new tires. :) I keep her between Warp 1 (10 mph) to Warp 6.5 (65 mph).

At any rate, this car is my family heirloom and I help spend money on the C-4 Transmission. I
don't mind saving up for the engine. I already spent money on the rest of the previous posted
items.

It's a 3.3 liter, 200ci engine, Straight 6 engine. Will fuel injection be better than carb?

Shalom,

irishmantx
76531




Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK: This engine has probably had it and what you are experiencing is plain wear from VERY high miles with blowby past pistons and their rings and that will put pressure into crankcase instead of the minute vacuum it should be via the PCV valve. Bet it you just pull the dipstick while idling it blow out when it really should be slightly sucking in air there. Valve guids in head and their seals sucking in oil beyond what it can burn so some actually makes it out the exhaust!

BTW - none of this is good for the cat. converter which is probably dead and kinda surprised it isn't all clogged up.

The shaking is probably tire, wheel, wheel bearing adjustment. Alignment alone really shouldn't be the cause of imbalance or causing shaking if off but would make the cause worse if badly out of spec. With the miles you have to check everything - front end parts even if already done could need them again at a "few million" miles

Carb vs fuel injection. Late carbs were hard to meet emmsions and got more complicated and fussier than much older than this year of vehicle. You really can't switch it to injected as that would be an engineering project and legalities of the car could or would be an issue. Totally impractical and too involved to even think about that.

If you are going to invest in the reman engine start checking for what's available. Ford themselves might still have a reman available. It would be a total stroke of magic to find a good low mile original that matched exactly at the age. Don't expect a reman engine to compete with original new for pounding miles on them. They can only be truly new once,

T

Response From irishmantx

Dear Tom,


Thanks for the info! I had gone out to my 'donor' Granada for
some hard to find parts. My "donor" Granada is a 4.2L which is
a 255ci v8. (It's being used as a donor car since its too costly to
fix immediately.)

Anyways, I did find an air filter intake hose from the wall to the
filter. The old one on my mom's 1982 Granada fell and crumbled
apart. It fit good, and I agree with you about the 3.3L 200 engine.

OK: This engine has probably had it and what you are experiencing is plain wear from VERY high miles with blowby past pistons and their rings and that will put pressure into crankcase instead of the minute vacuum it should be via the PCV valve. Bet it you just pull the dipstick while idling it blow out when it really should be slightly sucking in air there. Valve guids in head and their seals sucking in oil beyond what it can burn so some actually makes it out the exhaust!

I agree with you, mom, dad and I put WAY to many miles on this engine. The
engine was built in Canada and I give credit that maple syrup makes every
thing better. :) (: HA HA! ;) ;) ;) It spits oily soot at least 2ft from tail pipe,
and I must admit, this engine is tired. The car is still good, with Tender Loving
Care, I hope it remains for the next generation. Thanx Tom for your advice.
Merry Christmas, Happy Chanukah, Happy Holidays. Hope you and yours have
a wonderful holiday season, and if you drink too much egg nog, have a backup
driver ready to take you home, or sleep it off in the back seat. ;)

Money is being saved up over time, and save up for a new
engine. I want an engine that has a warranty and there are
rebuilds, but I want a 3.3L 200ci, Straight 6 long block. Is it a
good idea to get new water pump, alternator, carb, fuel pump,
and other parts, or salvage them off of the old engine, and how
much for a catalytic converter?

If all else fails, what engine places do you recommend for a
long block replacement? I don't want the hassle and issues with
rebuild the heads and the block itself. I realize its too much to
put into fuel injection, however, if I am super wealthy, or I meet
a nice sweet, wealthy, rich, financially deep pocketed Jewish
sugar cougar, I might want to hire the guy's at Overhaulin and
do some 'upgrades' and the legal team to make it happen. HA!
Other than that, it's by the book and back to factory standard.

Shalom

irishmantx
76531


Response From Tom Greenleaf

The FORD cast iron straight six engines share quite a bit I recall. My own first was 144 CID in a 63 Falcon, a 200 CID in a 68 Falcon and by chance other Fords were all V8s. Some of these are identical with changes in stroke to change displacement. Many used the 250 CID then trucks went big on the 300 CID called a 4.9L.


What to replace with a reman engine:

If alternator is fine now re-use it. Water pump should be cheaper and probably would put a new not reman pump on. All new cooling system hoses and vacuum lines. Carb? I'd swap first and if needed just get a kit to rebuild it. Should be fairly straight forward if you have good instructions with the kit usually. rebuilt/reman for carbs is mostly a real good cleaning, new needle valve, accelerator pump and gaskets. The idle mix screw my have a hardened cap to prevent messing with the idle mixture. Procedures to remove that with a punch may come with a kit as there is a needle valve behind those - perhaps a "clutch" headed needle valve and you can buy just one socket for those head looks like white spot in this pic......

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Idea is not to tamper with them as too many folks fussed with them and messed them up. For a good cleaning you need to take that out though. With those or any count turn in to a gentle bottom so you can duplicate where it was. If all is lost bottom it (gently is the operative word) and back off about 2+1/2 turns to 3 should be about right. For DIY carb things there are a few special tools. Kit is cheap and should come with specs and a thing to measure float level. If real fussy you find spec of float(s) and weigh them as they can sink from soaking up gas or be heavier and the level of fuel in the bowl is critical for proper fuel mixture. By mid throttle or wide open the idle mix isn't being used at all and too many people think it is the whole adjustment - NOT.

Rebuilt units can be good but I've had tons that needed way too many adjustments that were off. For the vintage you would normally set the idle speed on any and if all is good that's about all. Late carbs were a pill and full of tamper proof crap which can be defeated for cleaning up small holes/ports for fuel flow. I did do a ton of carb work back when.

Catalytic converter: Generally I would suggest an OE one but with this vintage aftermarket should be fine and tons cheaper. Dunno - if welded into the front pipe you may need more tools to cut old one out with care so replacement can just be clamps like a muffler.

Can't say for everywhere but I can't think of a state in US legal to just use straight pipe if a vehicle came with a converter. A good one doesn't harm performance for this and most applications.

Not sure what reman engine will have with it. Ask so you know and if you are doing this at all replace old stuff like plug wires or tune-up things that don't come with it.

Truth is in decades of car stuff I've never used a reman engine - always fully checked out low mile complete used that was a perfect match - no games. All were 100% good with a history. This is just too old to get that lucky.

It was my training and my opinion which may not be everyone's but no reman engine will have the propensity to last as long as a good original. For those making Hot Rods and that - do what you want. For a practical driver leave as much original as possible with most things.

Save up. There's still lots to do with a replacement engine,

Tom

Response From irishmantx

Dear Tom,

OK, I'm still not sure where to go, I guess I'm asking amiss, I wanted some
recommendation on which place to find O.E.M. or 'original' style engines? I
am on a tighter than a lycra leather corset budget, and I wanted a place to
get a replacement engine. I really don't know the history of 'used' engines,
and often some want to sell bull and sell me a wore out engine 'worse' than
mine. :(

But if you don't know of any places to direct me to procure an engine that
is CAST IRON, most original, and or avoid places that sell undesirable engines.
That's OK. I'll ask the mechanic about to perform the 'surgery' to take care of
it. I believe the carb was replaced last year. It runs good, water pump and
alternator was replaced together last year. Kept full of 50/50.

Also what steering columns will fit this Granada? It's a fox foundation style
and I was 'informed' that most Mustang parts for 1982 would fit some parts
on the Granada. The rear end, drive shaft, and the dash top?

Just wanted to make sure I knew where I was going on replacing an engine.
It's a vital investment, and wanted to make sure I sounded like I know I was
asking for, instead of being baffled by bull. :P

Shalom,

irishmantx
76531


Response From Tom Greenleaf

Engines: Holy cow - the exacting machine work to make one new is tough. A redo requires more specs to be checked and corrected that if all on paper you couldn't lift the book.

New and engine is cast. then line bored for as close to perfect for long shafts like crank and cam in this. New the engines each have their own DNA. You can't just swap crank bearing caps as once machined that's the fit for that one only. Even the machine tools for new only make so many "bores" before they are out of spec new! Redoing all that with a core engine is an art to itself and some come out well and some don't. They make parts that needed to be re bored to fit a new size but still it's a trade unto itself.

Cylinder walls don't wear evenly. When a cylinder fires the pressure of piston to cylinder wall is on one side so over time it loses it's perfect measurement for the travel of the piston. This is intense to get it all right at once.

************

Parts that interchange: Salvage places have a ton of data for what was the same for what models and years. I don't think any of us have the software for all of that but a good clue on some. Mercury made the Monarch which was the same body and most mechanical parts - just trim and sheet metal style, shape to look a bit different. I just dunno what other Ford products used the same exact body and think this one was on it's own. I actually don't know this car that well. There were Fairmonts, Zephyrs that might share many parts to Granada. TMK and FORD used names randomly for a while around then it could be also the same platform as once a smaller LTD and Marquis - none with V8s TMK and were unit body cars not chassis. Even Lincoln made a Versailles (sp?) that was really a dressed up Granada. Any decent salvage yard should know what can interchange,

T

Response From irishmantx Top Rated Answer

Dear Tom,


With all of that said, worst case scenario, if and when there is a 'Warp Core Breach'
and a new warp engine is needed, chances are, it might be towed to a mechanic that
my folx trust, and would likely tell the mechanic to go find a new total long block that
will fit the car. My dad owns a 1994 Buick Century, and had to replace the engine since
a shade tree idiot did not change the oil and burned up the motor. The 'idiot' left town,
and stuck my folx a $3,500 front wheel drive engine. OR so the price for a front wheel
drive engine for a 1994 Buick Century. (NOT A NEW THREAD!)

Push comes to shove, its not 'my' car to make any decisions. It's the "mom and dad
back up utility car since dad don't want to drive his car as often as he wants" kind of
car. LOL. Tom thank you for the help, looks like I beg my mom and dad not to scrap
this cream puff, but get a new motor, after my obligated expected offer to help pay for
half of it. Full LONG BLOCK 3.3 Liter, 200ci, 6cylinder engine.

Since I drive it a lot, and did 'front' most of the repairs and parts, I hope to have some
say in keeping this car. It's a solid machine and scares a lot of the plastic car toy drivers,
when they see a "REAL" car on the road. :)

Shalom,
irishmantx
76531


vehicle inspection

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From nightwork on vehicle inspection

1994 buick regal 3.1 liter 124,000 miles has problem passing hydrocarbon part of inspection. 220ppm is acceptable. i am now at 393.ppm. i went to inspection and passed co because i put a new oxygen sensor on. i failed the hc with a 238ppm at this time. i had new plugs put in the platinem kind. went back through inspection and failed with a275ppm. i drove it on the expressway and went back another day it failed with 320ppm. i next changed the thermostat. drove it to ispection left car running in line for about an hour before my turn came failed with 329ppm. went back 2 days later and shut the car off every two cars and starteed up about three cars before my turn for inspection and this time it went up to354ppm. my next step is to buy a cat.converter or egr valve or what running out of money soon. i changed oil and filter and this did not help.

Response From Hammer Time

If you continue just throwing parts at it, then you will run out of money.
HC is unburned fuel so you can put all the Catalytic Converters that you want and it still won't pass. Try a coupls simple things first.

Change the engine oil. It gets raw gas dilution and will cause High HC

Ignition misfire is a common cause so make sure the ignition wires are in real good shape. If they have over 50K on them, then replace them.

Make sure the engine is reaching full operating temp and it has the correct thermostat.

Response From DanD Top Rated Answer

All good points Hammer Time.

High levels of hydrocarbons could also be due to a small continual amount of burning engine oil. I’m not talking billowing blue smoke or even a measurable amount of oil missing on the dipstick; but enough oil consumption; that along with the normal amount being produced during combustion; could cause your car to fail.

Allowing your vehicle to run, while waiting for your turn on the machine; is likely one of the worst things to do. As long as the temp gauge is in the normal area and if the test center that is performing the test; are doing it properly; they will (or are suppose too) precondition the vehicle before testing. In other words making sure the engine and converter is up to operating temperature. All the machines I’ve used, give the inspector an option of performing a conditioning cycle as the inspector enters the vehicles information into the machine. This conditioning cycle will run the vehicle up to speed on the dyno for a minute or so to warm things up.

Most any vehicle’s engine (especially 1994 and older models) will begin to load up the exhaust system with emissions due to the low rpm of an idle. The converters will cool off and shut down if idled to long; same goes for the single wire O2 sensors, they will go off line, if the exhaust cools below 450degrees. Once that happens the computer looses its ability of fuel control and will run the engine using a fixed set of values. Likely rich because the computer programming thinks; it has a cold engine to keep running; when in fact it’s only the exhaust system that has cooled. If you still feel the need to keep the engine running; hold the RPM at 1500 rpm plus, just before the inspector gets his hands on your vehicle.

Before you condemn the cat; have it tested by someone that has a gas analyzer. It’s a fairly simple test; drill a 3/16 test port hole in the exhaust pipe in front of the cat (Pre cat). Bring the vehicle up to operating temperature and take a sample of the exhaust gases at the test port. Now plug the test port (self tapping bolt) and take a second gas sample (Post cat) at the tail pipe.
With this math formula; Pre minus Post, divided by Pre, multiplied by 100 will give you the percentage of the converter’s efficiency. Anything below 70% efficient is considered weak and could use replacing.

One last thing; if you’re going to replace the converter; good luck finding an efficient after market replacement. I’ve done a lot of testing on converters and have yet found an aftermarket that was any better then about 75 or 80 % efficient.
An OE converter for this old of a car is pretty expensive; I would suggest a universal converter; the biggest one that you can find, that’ll fit.

The aftermarket converters that are listed and sold as per application; well I believe that it’s not the engineers that decide which goes with what vehicle. It’s the bean counters in the accounting office that decides this. This is just my take on this but; they must look at these converters and say; if this vehicle is running 100% as intended then this much of a converter or converter contents (Platinum Rhodium and Palladium) will do. Where are we ever going to have a piece of machinery that will run 100%, 100% of the time????
The vehicle manufacturers knows that it can’t or doen't happen; look at the size of converters they install at the factory. They are usually twice the size of the aftermarket.

Sorry for the ramble; but I still left out a lot of points I was trying to make.
Good thing EH!!!!!!! LOL


Dan.