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APA/URO Parts
1990 Volvo 240 Tail Light Assembly APA/URO Parts - Without Bulbs & Holders

P311-5E6B1C4    W0133-1600633  New

Qty:
$147.55
APA/URO Parts Tail Light Assembly
  • Wagon
  • Without Bulbs & Holders
  • Left
Brand: APA/URO Parts
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1990 - Volvo 240
APA/URO Parts
1990 Volvo 240 Tail Light Assembly APA/URO Parts - Without Bulbs & Holders

P311-5206B4F    W0133-1600592  New

Qty:
$131.19
APA/URO Parts Tail Light Assembly
  • Wagon
  • Without Bulbs & Holders
  • Right
Brand: APA/URO Parts
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1990 - Volvo 240
APA/URO Parts
1993 Volvo 240 Tail Light Assembly APA/URO Parts

P311-28C8132    W0133-1600395  New

Qty:
$192.18
APA/URO Parts Tail Light Assembly
  • Sedan - with Chrome Rim
  • Right
Brand: APA/URO Parts
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Volvo 240
Professional Parts Sweden
1984 Volvo 760 Tail Light Assembly 6 Cyl 2.4L Professional Parts Sweden - w/o Bulb Holders

P311-425816C    W0133-1600707  New

Qty:
$88.73
Professional Parts Sweden Tail Light Assembly
  • Wagon
  • w/o Bulb Holders
  • Left
Brand: Professional Parts Sweden
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
1984 - Volvo 760 Turbocharged L 6 Cyl 2.4L - 2383
APA/URO Parts
1989 Volvo 244 Tail Light Assembly APA/URO Parts

P311-28C8132    W0133-1600395  New

Qty:
$192.18
APA/URO Parts Tail Light Assembly
  • with chrome rim
  • Right
Brand: APA/URO Parts
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1989 - Volvo 244
Professional Parts Sweden
1994 Volvo 960 Tail Light Assembly Professional Parts Sweden - w/o Bulb Holders

P311-425816C    W0133-1600707  New

Qty:
$88.73
Professional Parts Sweden Tail Light Assembly
  • w/o Bulb Holders
  • Left
Brand: Professional Parts Sweden
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body
1994 - Volvo 960 Wagon
APA/URO Parts
1993 Volvo 240 Tail Light Assembly APA/URO Parts - Without Bulbs & Holders

P311-5E6B1C4    W0133-1600633  New

Qty:
$147.55
APA/URO Parts Tail Light Assembly
  • Wagon
  • Without Bulbs & Holders
Brand: APA/URO Parts
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Volvo 240
APA/URO Parts
1989 Volvo 245 Tail Light Assembly APA/URO Parts - Without Bulbs & Holders

P311-5E6B1C4    W0133-1600633  New

Qty:
$147.55
APA/URO Parts Tail Light Assembly
  • Without Bulbs & Holders
Brand: APA/URO Parts
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1989 - Volvo 245
APA/URO Parts
1993 Volvo 240 Tail Light Assembly APA/URO Parts - Without Bulbs & Holders

P311-5206B4F    W0133-1600592  New

Qty:
$131.19
APA/URO Parts Tail Light Assembly
  • Wagon
  • Without Bulbs & Holders
Brand: APA/URO Parts
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Volvo 240
APA/URO Parts
1989 Volvo 245 Tail Light Assembly APA/URO Parts - Without Bulbs & Holders

P311-5206B4F    W0133-1600592  New

Qty:
$131.19
APA/URO Parts Tail Light Assembly
  • Without Bulbs & Holders
Brand: APA/URO Parts
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1989 - Volvo 245

Latest Volvo Repair and Tail Light Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

volvo electrical problems- can anyone help?

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From Nite hawk on volvo electrical problems- can anyone help?

Howdy!
I have a 1980 Volvo 240 series, standard,236,000 km, runs pretty well, but have had minor electrical problems, in the past, every 4-6 months the heater fan fuse would crash, and when replaced work for another 4-6 months.
However we started having alot more serious problems. When I would hit the turn signal, the amp light would come on and buzz and the engine would die, and then it would not want to re-start. checked and changed the battery, tested the alternator, the tester said it was fine.
When it would happen would let it set for bit, and then MAYBE it would start.
IT would crank fine, but no fire or fuel seemed to be getting through. (fuel injected)
Like I said we changed the battery, and wire brushed and greased and tightened the 3 grounds under the hood, and it seemed to run fine, and then one morning on the way to work,hit the turn signal and it died and had to walk home.
Thankfully it was a short distance.
Someone suggested that because it was fuel injected there might be a computer that needed to be re-set, so the battery was un- hooked overnight. we also polished the posts on the inside of the distributor cap. now it seems to be working again for the present time.
However the electrical episodes was sporadic in nature before, so not sure if it is "cured" or not. The only other thing I can think of is that I always plug the cell phone in the cig lighter to charge, ( it said it was charging ok) and wonder if that might be an issue, and haven't plugged it in for a while.
We live several hundred miles from any Volvo dealer, and live in a remote area, and I have to drive long distances to work so as winter approaches , want the car reliable again.
I actually called one volvo dealer asking the parts department if there might be a wiring harness that was available, and was told such a thing didn't exist!!
We argued, as I do know such a thing does exist, and he finally relented and said that they do exist, but only in different sections and would have to have one made up for an older car.
I also noticed that the back window de-icer line in the glass doesn't seem to work anymore. Now I can live with that problem, but the engine dying at an intersection and not wanting to re-start because I hit the signal switch is a problem that I need help with!!
Would really appreciate any thoughts!!!
Thanks
Nite Hawk

Response From Nite hawk Top Rated Answer

Howdy!
New developments
Tightened the belt, no more squeals, was headed home, we slowed down and it died...
re-started the first time, got underway, and again slowed down, no signal and and died again, this time it wouldn't re-start, and had to be pushed out of the road.
After while and lots of trying, and after it sat for a while it finally started and we made to the turn at home, again slowed down, this time with a signal and again it died., and no start.
My son was tinkering with the key in the ignition, and noticed that the dash lights wouldn't come on, but after jiggling the key if the dash lights would come on, it would start.
This time it blew a tail light fuse, ( second time after a dying episode this happened)
We were wondering if maybe the there was a problem with the ignition switch that might be killing everything...
Now I don't know if the ignition is somehow connected to the signal and tail lights , and maybe if there is a short in one area it is crashing everything??
I was reading the other day on the internet that the 1980-88 volvo's had bad qualtiy engine wire harnesses, and the web site was recommending to replace the wire harnessing..
Now of course this site sells harnesses, so not sure if this is the truth or not. appreciate your thoughts..
Will check out more about the testers -thanks.

Response From Nite hawk

It is possible its not charging properly, even though the battery is new, and the alternator rebuilt earlier in the year. I question the belt tightness on the alternator, have what seems to be a belt squeal from time to time, and I question the possibility of maybe the negative battery cable might possibly need replaced, but not sure if that has any bearing on the problem or not.. Not knowledgeable on car electrics , that's why I am asking wiser heads than mine what they think.
Thanks for your thoughts.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I didn't go look up layout but check that belt. You should not be able to turn alternator with bare hands by the fins (everything off and cool please) or it's too loose and squealing suggests.


Reason I said cell phone charges meaning nothing as it's power output is .3VOLTS not crap as things go. You said car dies out with just directionals. Just the power a couple light bulbs take to light is probably 500 times the power a cell phone could ever need. That little bit is taking (high bet on this) away enough power that the engine can't run right or at all never mind running more power items like blower motor, headlights, rear window defrosters and the like. Starting the engine takes a ton of power expressed as amps. Think like a water hose you could use a pin hole straw or a garden hose and which would deliver the most for you? Same basics for this much of your troubles.


This isn't rocket science yet with your car. Get a voltmeter ($10US) available if you just look around at larger department stores like Walmart and others.
That and get a "floating battery charger, maintainer" for cheap too - about $20US. Takes a long time perhaps 24 hours to charge but will indicate the battery is fully charged. Voltmeter should read 12.6 or more volts right then and settle to that. Just those two things you can diagnose a lot. Add to that a plain scratch awl type test light, LED ones are now under $10 bucks and you can do quite a bit of basics now.


Check voltage on outside of battery clamps and one posts for any volt difference say with headlights on or something that uses some power. Should be the same.


Belt again. Didn't check if self adjust or not and doesn't matter which way but has to be snug enough. Self tensioned has a limit for belt stretch or plain bad and manually tensioned you do yourself or have done but don't over do it either - know the difference or it's too hard on bearing on belt driven items. If more than one check and or replace/adjust as needed. Find out if unsure in person with a mechanic.


All your issues point to simple inadequate power to run properly and belt(s), battery and that it charges is the key to it all,


T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

This plain smacks of charging system not up to par or working at all! Belt way too loose, alternator problem, or new or not battery no good. You gotta charge a battery first or should before testing anything. Using your cell phone as an indicator mean absooooolutely nothing!


T