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ACDelco
Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$13.36
ACDelco Radiator Hose  Upper
  • Professional Molded; Cut to fit
Brand: ACDelco
Position: Upper
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Position Block Engine
2006 - Suzuki XL7 GAS Upper V 6 Cyl 2.7L
ACDelco
Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$55.07
ACDelco Washer
  • GM Original Equipment; DOES NOT INCLUDE GROMMET With FILTER
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type
2009 - Suzuki XL7 AWD
ACDelco
2008 Suzuki XL7 Alternator ACDelco - GM Original Equipment; 170 AMP GENERATOR (KW7)

P311-318C4BE    23106528  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$304.56
ACDelco Alternator
  • GM Original Equipment; 170 AMP GENERATOR (KW7)
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type
2008 - Suzuki XL7 FWD
ACDelco
2007 Suzuki XL7 Timing Chain Kit 6 Cyl 3.6L ACDelco

P311-2E75892    12700434  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$408.84
  • GM Original Equipment; IF CRK SPROCKET USED IS 12599721 OR 12645465
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Block Engine
2007 - Suzuki XL7 AWD V 6 Cyl 3.6L
ACDelco
2008 Suzuki XL7 Timing Chain Kit 6 Cyl 3.6L ACDelco

P311-2E75892    12700434  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$408.84
  • GM Original Equipment
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Block Engine
2008 - Suzuki XL7 AWD V 6 Cyl 3.6L
ACDelco
2007 Suzuki XL7 Alternator ACDelco - GM Original Equipment; 155 AMP GENERATOR (KW8)

P311-3037462    23119515  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$244.87
ACDelco Alternator
  • GM Original Equipment; 155 AMP GENERATOR (KW8)
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type
2007 - Suzuki XL7 AWD
ACDelco
Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$26.72
ACDelco HVAC Temperature Valve
  • HVAC Temperature Valve; A/C AUTO ELECTRONIC CONTROLS (C68)
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type
2008 - Suzuki XL7 FWD
ACDelco
Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$5.65
ACDelco HVAC Heater Outlet Pipe Gasket
  • HVAC Heater Outlet Pipe Gasket
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Block Engine
2008 - Suzuki XL7 FWD V 6 Cyl 3.6L
ACDelco
2007 Suzuki XL7 Washer ACDelco - GM Original Equipment; INCLUDES GROMMET AND PUMP

P311-5C3F348    19180273  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$36.99
ACDelco Washer
  • GM Original Equipment; INCLUDES GROMMET AND PUMP
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type
2007 - Suzuki XL7 AWD
ACDelco
2009 Suzuki XL7 Variable Timing Unit 6 Cyl 3.6L ACDelco

P311-3D2D08B    12684832  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$88.43
ACDelco Variable Timing Unit
  • Engine Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Adjuster; USE TOGETHER WITH WASH 12632859 UNLESS USED ON SADDLE CAP STYLE HEADS; DO NOT USE A WASHER WITH FRONT CAM CAP MARKED 12634613) (ALSO SERVICES OPTIONAL PART NUMBER 12614464
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Block Engine
2009 - Suzuki XL7 AWD V 6 Cyl 3.6L

Showing 1 - 10 of 174 Products.


Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Honda Pilot or Suzuki XL-7?

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Guest on Honda Pilot or Suzuki XL-7?

I am buying a used suv and am stuck between two. The first is a 2006 Honda Pilot with 38,000 miles on it. It only had one owner, an older woman who is now returning it on lease return. My car salesman said she took very good care of it and that I can speak with her about the vehicle. The other vehicle is a 2007 Suzuki XL-7 with 6,800 miles. It was never owned or titled out. It was a demo driven by a manager and all scheduled maintance logs are available for me to see. Which vehicle do you think will last the longest?

Response From dmac0923 Top Rated Answer

how long a vehicle lasts depends on maintenance history and driver habits.

i would base my decision between the two vehicles on gas mileage and any transferable warrenty. in comparision to price.

2002 Suzuki XL7 Dies after 2200-2500 RPM

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From Skibum1976 on 2002 Suzuki XL7 Dies after 2200-2500 RPM

Hey first post on here. I got a 2002 Suzuki xl7 4x4 with 157,0xx miles on it. I started to give the suv a little TLC, in the form of new head gaskets, Valve cover gaskets, cleaned EGR, new battery, and passenger side O2 sensor before catalytic converter. Somewhere along the line I either made a mistake, broke something or something else broke, because after the gaskets and the EGR, the car started up fine and ran good but then after it was warmed up and I was driving, anytime I stepped on the accelerator and the engine rpms went up to 2200, it would kill until the rpms dropped below 2200 and it would kick back on with me doing nothing. then the thermostat went out with the O2 sensor, replaced both and it still is having the same problem. My guess is that I knocked some wires maybe loose. Sometimes it doesn't do it at all and other times it's very consistent. Ive looked and have no idea where to start. No engine codes.

Response From Max_B00st

I agree that it would be easier if you had a way to get to the OEM side of the PCM. Since you might not have the equipment for that, I'll recommend some shade-tree methods of at-least getting you pointed in a direction for diagnosis.

The first thing I would do is, listen for your fuel pump priming. Try to see if it sounds weak. Listen to the intake while you're revving the engine, listen for vacuum leaks. REALLY pay attention to how it sounds when it cuts out (Knocks, pings, solenoids if they are loud enough)
If you notice anything odd sounding, check it out.
Once you've done a thorough visual and audible inspection of the vehicle under the conditions it stalls at, its time to actually start testing components.

For this I recommend:
Basic OBDII scan tool (Or better if you have it).
Fuel pressure testing kit.
Compression testing kit.
Intake vacuum gauge kit.
Cylinder leak-down manifold kit. (You need a small air compressor).
NOID light test kit.

Start with your fuel. Throw your gauge and try to make the vehicle stall with it hooked up. If you can, watch the gauge to see if it's movement is stable and up to spec. If you notice that its all over the place or drops heavily under load. You can assume you have a fuel issue.

Test your vacuum. When I say this, you'll need your OBDII to check MAF and MAP sensor data, to ensure they are actually providing the computer with output. If you can safely say they are atleast functioning, use your vacuum gauge to test vacuum.
Your vacuum should be steady at around 16.5mcGH to 22mcGH. This is the sweet spot for vehicles that have proper and steady vacuum. If it falls below that, you likely have an exhaust obstruction or vacuum leak. if its erratic you probably have a gasket leak, weak or improperly installed valve springs / stem seals.
If you rev your engine and it slowly rises up, thats normal. If it randomly drops and comes back up at idle, its most likely a timing issue.

Test your compression, you should have no less than 100PSI on each cylinder (Some can run on lower compression). Measure all of your cylinders dry and with a squirt of oil. They should not differ by anymore than 20 - 25%.

Once you do that, do a cylinder leak down test if you have the means. I'm not going to explain that in depth. Check out a guy on youtube called "EricTheCarGuy" and find his Cylinder leakdown test video. He explains it in depth and very well.

Other things you can do are, pull the plug wires and perform a performance drop test. If you pull your wires one by one and you notice that one of your wires or more does not effect performance when removed, you might have a coil or distributor issue.

I like to pull sensor plugs off while the vehicle is running to see if they make a difference. If you find that you unplug something like a MAF or MAP sensor and the vehicle continues to run normally, you might want to head in that direction.

This is just a brief methodology of how I would do it. Theres a million things you could do.
I would just do this:

1. Recheck everything without disassembling the engine.
2. Run all tests that you can to the best of your ability.
3. Hope you find something.
4. Come back and let us know how it went so we can continue to guide you in another direction.
5. Either redo EVERYTHING you did again and make 100% you did it right, or take it to the dealer and let them deal with it.

I love Suzuki SUV's
Good luck with it!!!!

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

What was the reason for replacing all those gaskets, especially the head gaskets? There has to be codes or something in the data stream. Generic code reader isn't going to cut it on this vehicle. You need an enhanced scan tool that can get on the manufacture's side of the PCM. There might be manufacture codes stored. Other than that the only thing you can really do is recheck everything thing to did and make sure you didn't miss something or install something incorrectly.

Suzuki all wheel drive off

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From mcamel on Suzuki all wheel drive off

own a 2007 suzuki xl7. Lost all wheel drive, traction light triangle is on, brake light and abs sensor are also on. Drove @ 1 mile, got gas. Started truck and these light stayed on.

Response From Jeff Norfolk Top Rated Answer

You will need to have the codes from the EBCM to know where to start. All those lights are probably related.

fault code PO008 rough idle

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From allee on fault code PO008 rough idle

2008 Suzuki XL-7 3.6 Miss at idle. shows PO008 code twice after running about ten minutes.

Response From Discretesignals

Any recent repair work done to the engine before the problem showed up? Code can show up if the timing chains have stretched. Should be covered under the 7 year 100K warranty.

Response From kev2 Top Rated Answer

this is a cam timing issue-
this is a VCT engine cam timing is adjusted using OIL pressure - be sure oil is full. clean, correct weight
sometimes a stuck (gum varnish) component can be freed with an oil additive ie RISOLINE..added to oil.

If the simple easy fix did not help... will need to check ,cam sensors, cam position actuators and cam timing.

Try the easy simple first

TPS adjustment

Showing 5 out of 6 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From dakotared on TPS adjustment

2007 Suzuki XL7 - Error code reads p0122 and the computer in the dash reads Engine Hot- A/C off. It turned over earlier but Car wont start now. Battery is new, all fluid levels ok. AND... can anyone tell me a PART NUMBER to search for to replace the TPS? or a simple step by step on how to ADJUST it?

Response From Hammer Time

That TPS isn't stopping the engine from cranking. If you got it that hot, you may have done some serious damage.

Response From dakotared

The car did not get hot its outside in winter here 10 outside. Nothing "overheated" its a TPS throttle error not an overheating issue.

Response From Discretesignals

The throttle body assembly contains 2 throttle position (TP) sensors. The TP sensors are mounted to the throttle body assembly and are not serviceable.

If there is a condition with the TP sensors the ECM defaults to reduced power mode for the entire ignition cycle, even if the condition is corrected.

TAC System Default Actions/Reduce Power Modes

There are 2 reduce power modes that the engine control module (ECM) can default to if an error is detected in the throttle actuator control (TAC) system. If an accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor 1 or APP sensor 2 circuit fault, throttle position (TP) sensor 2 circuit fault, or if a TP sensor 1 circuit fault is detected with some APP angle, the ECM goes into one of the 2 reduce power modes. In this mode, the engine torque is limited so that the vehicle cannot reach speeds of more than 100 km/h (60 mph). The ECM remains in this reduce power mode during the entire ignition cycle even if the fault is corrected.If there is a condition with the throttle actuator control circuits, throttle actuator command vs actual position fault, return spring check fault, or a TP sensor 1 circuit fault, the ECM goes into the other reduce engine power mode. In this mode, the engine speed is limited to 2,500 RPM and the 3-6 fuel injectors are randomly turned OFF. At this time the Reduced Power indicator is commanded ON. The ECM remains in the reduce power mode during the entire ignition cycle even if the fault is corrected. Observe, if a TP sensor 1 or throttle actuator control circuit fault is present at the time the vehicle is at idle, with no accelerator pedal angle, the engine may stall.

Doesn't state anything in those quotes about reduce power mode causing a no start.





Looks like you would need to replace the entire throttle body for the TPS. Maybe you should do some diagnosis before condemning the throttle body because of a circuit code. Just a suggestion.

Throttle body is $356 from the dealer. Part # 1340078J00

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

It turned over earlier but Car wont start now. Battery is new,

Sounds like it's not cranking to me.

Response From Hammer Time

computer in the dash reads Engine Hot-

Maybe I just can't read.