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Question From goad on 91 Subaru Loyale Ball Joints
How do I effectively inspect & replace the ball joints on the following: 1991 Subaru Loyale 4 Cyl - 4 door base FWD 90,000 miles
It is knocking when on rough pavement and chatters at speeds of 50+ mph when on a left hand turn (bearing left). Thanks
Response From Tom Greenleaf☆☆☆☆☆Top Rated Answer
In that I'm not certain of front end layout it is one of two ways so I'd do both ways anyway. Hoist by body just enough to pry up on wheel/tire and jockey the wheel/tire anyway for other looseness, or support lower control arm close to joint such that weight of vehicle isn't pressing on joint and same tests. Pretty much no motion should be noted on a joint anywhere. Do with wheels aimed straight ahead,
NO START, NO SPARK
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Question From Jamesleandre on NO START, NO SPARK
92 Subaru Loyale 4 cyL 1.8 Liter engine 144,764 mi
Problem: No START, NO SPARK
How is everyone doing today? I'm working on a 92 Subaru Loyale 1.8 Liter no spark, no start. There is power coming from the ignition switch to coil. The primary coil Resistance is 1.1 Ohms, and the secondary coil resistance is 10.19 kilo ohms, so the coil is good. There is a condenser below the coil. I removed it and put another condenser from the same type of car still no start, no spark. I exchanged the crank angle sensor distributor and still no start, no spark. The fuel pressure gauge says 20 psi, so the fuel pump is good.The timing belt is not missing any teeth, or damaged.The only thing left to do is to go to a Junk yard and pick up an ECU and try that. Any advice would be appreciated before spending money on ECU.
Response From Jamesleandre
I"m sorry, I forgot to mention that I have exchamged the coil with a coil from another car still no start, no spark. After putting the engine on TDC The timing belt looks like it might be off when I compare it from what ALLDATA has. I"ll put it where ALLdata says it should be .
Response From Discretesignals
The only thing left to do is to go to a Junk yard and pick up an ECU
You haven't tested anything except coil resistance, which is inconclusive. What did you use to test power to the coil?
Response From Hammer Time
I"ll put it where ALLdata says it should be .
Yeah, that would be a good idea.
Response From Hammer Time☆☆☆☆☆Top Rated Answer
The fuel pressure gauge says 20 psi, so the fuel pump is good
You're writing off a lot of things that you shouldn't be
Just because a timing belt isn't missing any teeth doesn't mean the car is in time.
Just because the resistance is good, doesn't mean a coil is good
You need to find out if you have injector pulse and if not, power supply to the injector.
You also need to scan the computer for any stored trouble codes.
1990 Subaru Loyale gear oil/C-V joint confusion
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Question From Neophyte on 1990 Subaru Loyale gear oil/C-V joint confusion
Hello folks, I have an oddball question. Please understand I'm pretty ignorant on car topics right from the start (though circumstances are making me learn...lol!). Also new to the forum, so if I have this in the wrong section, someone let me know.
I haven't driven a car for years but recently had reason to look for a cheap used car for daily trips under 10 miles. One of the cars I looked at was a 1990 Subaru Loyale sedan, body dinged and scratched with a couple light rust patches, interior fairly worn, but battery lights and signals good, engine clean, smooth on the test drive and with a few years of service records, and within my price range. I see other areas to post on things that turned out to be wrong with it, but here's first odd thing I'd like to run by y'all:
The seller told me the car has a "slight drip" C-V joint fluid leak that had not changed or increased in six months, that it only leaked when it was warm outside or the car was driven on a long trip, and that the leak was so small even then he had only had to top it off twice in six months. He showed me a short dipstick under the hood --right in the centerline of the car and almost back against the firewall-- that he told me was used to keep track of the C-V joint fluid level. He even had a small oval funnel tucked in between the side wall of the engine compartment and a hose, that he said was just the right side to top off the fluid when it needed it.
I looked at the car, read the service records, asked questions, and test drove the car, but as I know I am not knowledgeable enough to keep from being shilled, I then took it into the local automotive shop where I had previously inquired about buyer's checks and and asked if they had time to do one. I repeated what the seller had told me about a C-V joint leak and checking it with this short dipstick and topping it off to the mechanic, who then went to speak with the seller. After a few minutes the mechanic told me that the seller had done everything he would have expected be done on a car that old and that mileage, and it seemed like a good buy to him.
I'm sure y'all know I bought the car, and that the dipstick didn't measure C-V joint fluid already. The seller might have thought I might actually know enough to reject the car if he said anything pointing to the actual gear oil leak, since even ignoramuses often know to stay away from transmission/gear/gear oil problems due to the expense of getting them fixed, and substituted C-V joint. My question to your collective experience? How did a seasoned, experienced mechanic who works on all sorts of cars miss the red flag that something was hinky with the seller after that check the C-V joint fluid level with the dipstick and top it off as needed story came out? I need to know if it's more likely the mechanic isn't as experienced as I thought, or there's something more to this I don't know about, so I can evaluate if I need to stay away from that shop.
Response From Hammer Time
I guess you know by now that there is no such thing as C/V fluid and what you are seeing is likely a transmission leak that could be leaking at the C/V joint. There is a seal there that can be changed but that won't necessarily resolve the issue if the inside bushing is worn.
I don't know what you could have expected with w 25 year old car. It certainly won't be problem free.
Response From Neophyte☆☆☆☆☆Top Rated Answer
Hi Hammer Time. Yes, that's something I've learned --when someone tells you you can check the C-V joint fluid here using this dipstick, either they're more ignorant than you are or you're being taken for a ride ;) From you answer I guess I can take it that there is no way an experienced mechanic would have believed that one.
At any rate, the C-V joints are not leaking. The leak is actually gear oil leaking from a bad seal in the gear box, separate from the rest of the transmission, according to the shop mechanic who looked at the car after the brake fade (not the same mechanic as the one who talked to the seller).
Response From Hammer Time
That makes more sense.
Response From Tom Greenleaf
Neophyte: I'm with Hammer Time on this but would like to add in that he said fixing this leak may not work there's more worn or going on to waste too much on this car IMO. Keep it full and get what you can out of it. Safety item not put in compromise ever but just use it up for what it is and save towards a better car to start with even if similar. Age alone isn't the whole game but sure part of it. For most people this is WAY to old to be practical to use daily if that's what you need,