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Sachs
1999 Volkswagen Golf Suspension Strut Assembly Sachs

P311-2D2E3A7    W0133-1736188  New

Qty:
$110.06
Sachs Suspension Strut Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • TwinTube
  • Comfort Suspension
Brand: Sachs
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
1999 - Volkswagen Golf TDI
Sachs
2000 Volkswagen Golf Suspension Strut Assembly Sachs

P311-2D2E3A7    W0133-1736188  New

Qty:
$110.06
Sachs Suspension Strut Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • TwinTube
  • Comfort Suspension
  • Front
Brand: Sachs
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2000 - Volkswagen Golf GL
Sachs
1999 Volkswagen Golf Suspension Strut Assembly Sachs

P311-2D2E3A7    W0133-1736188  New

Qty:
$110.06
Sachs Suspension Strut Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • TwinTube
  • Comfort Suspension
Brand: Sachs
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
1999 - Volkswagen Golf TDI
Sachs
2005 Volkswagen Beetle Suspension Strut Assembly Sachs

P311-2D2E3A7    W0133-1736188  New

Qty:
$110.06
Sachs Suspension Strut Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • TwinTube
  • with Sport Suspension
Brand: Sachs
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - Volkswagen Beetle
Sachs
2005 Volkswagen Beetle Suspension Strut Assembly Sachs

P311-2D2E3A7    W0133-1736188  New

Qty:
$110.06
Sachs Suspension Strut Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • TwinTube
  • with Sport Suspension
Brand: Sachs
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - Volkswagen Beetle
Sachs
2002 Volkswagen Golf Suspension Strut Assembly Sachs

P311-2D2E3A7    W0133-1736188  New

Qty:
$110.06
Sachs Suspension Strut Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • TwinTube
  • (Non-Serviceable)
Brand: Sachs
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation
2002 - Volkswagen Golf AFP
Sachs
2002 Volkswagen Golf Suspension Strut Assembly Sachs

P311-2D2E3A7    W0133-1736188  New

Qty:
$110.06
Sachs Suspension Strut Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • TwinTube
  • (Non-Serviceable)
Brand: Sachs
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation
2002 - Volkswagen Golf AFP
Sachs
2001 Volkswagen Beetle Suspension Strut Assembly Sachs

P311-2D2E3A7    W0133-1736188  New

Qty:
$110.06
Sachs Suspension Strut Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • TwinTube
  • Sports Suspension
Brand: Sachs
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Volkswagen Beetle
Sachs
2001 Volkswagen Beetle Suspension Strut Assembly Sachs

P311-2D2E3A7    W0133-1736188  New

Qty:
$110.06
Sachs Suspension Strut Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • TwinTube
  • Sports Suspension
Brand: Sachs
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Volkswagen Beetle
Sachs
2009 Volkswagen Jetta City Suspension Strut Assembly Sachs

P311-2D2E3A7    W0133-1736188  New

Qty:
$110.06
Sachs Suspension Strut Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • TwinTube
Brand: Sachs
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Volkswagen Jetta City

Latest Volkswagen Repair and Struts Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

rear defroster stopped working

Showing 9 out of 9 Posts
Question From saharatj98 on rear defroster stopped working

Rear defrost Issues!

Something that should be really easy has got me stumped...

This is on a 1985 Porsche 944. Power comes in on the driver's side of liftgate glass. 3" jumper connects to the lift strut. Likewise another jumper connects the glass side of the strut to the defrost. Ground is the same on the passenger side through the strut.

I have 12v at the terminal and through the jumper through the strut and across all but 2 defrost wires and to the ground side when ground is disconnected. WHen ground is connected I lose 12v and have nothing. I disconnect 12v jumper and have 12v again from the switch. I checked my ground side and it is fine. Defrost used to work and slowly has gone less and less effective this last year to totally not working at all. Thought about increasing resistance in the grid as old wiring can deteriorate, but it's been garaged since new and has low miles. I have a few older Volkswagens and defrost works fine in all.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Note: The grid on ON the glass not in it. Just cleaning it can mess them up. Closing that on cargo or scraping a sticker off will kill them as well.

You can test these with a test light and find the breaks. May be all of them now. With a flashlight you can usually see where the break is and there is a repair nail polish type product that can work but hasn't been perfect in ones I've fixed.

I think you'll find the continuity has been broken,

T

Response From saharatj98

nope..... got all but 2.... only 2 of the 10 have a break. All the rest have continuity through both sides. Don't haul anything back there to scratch and clean windows with the same amonia free window cleaner I use on all my cars.... THese two broken grids have been broken for years and defrost still worked.

I have voltage, I have ground. WHen I disconnect ground I get voltage through grid. When grounded, voltage drops to 0. When voltage disconnected I have 12v... It's like I have a dead short when plugged in but not enough to pop the fuse or anything. Got current there though, like grid has a dead short, but doesn't short it out enough to pop fuse, but then doesn't get hot either. A short causes heat which is kind of the principal it uses anyway... I think maybe for whatever reason my grid just will not carry current anymore?

Response From DanD

If you’re loosing power on the left side when everything is connected, you’re going to have to work through the system looking where there’s a bad connection or device (relay?).
What I mean is, whatever is causing this is still partially connected or working. When the ground wire is disconnected; there’s enough connection at the problem that voltage can pass through. Once things are put back so that the window should work, the load on the system from the grid is causing whatever to disconnect (go open).
Find the relay and test whether there’s voltage on the black wire (feed from relay to window) at the relay, when the system is turned on and everything connected.
If there is, start chasing that black wire to the window, looking of a rotted /cut wire. If there’s no power on the black wire, test that there’s power from fuse #13, (30 amp) in the under hood electrical center is getting to the relay; if so the relay is likely at fault.
Remember that German made vehicles use brown as the color making ground wires. I guess they have to be different then the rest of the planet? LOL

Dan.

Response From saharatj98 Top Rated Answer


If you’re loosing power on the left side when everything is connected, you’re going to have to work through the system looking where there’s a bad connection or device (relay?).
What I mean is, whatever is causing this is still partially connected or working. When the ground wire is disconnected; there’s enough connection at the problem that voltage can pass through. Once things are put back so that the window should work, the load on the system from the grid is causing whatever to disconnect (go open).
Find the relay and test whether there’s voltage on the black wire (feed from relay to window) at the relay, when the system is turned on and everything connected.
If there is, start chasing that black wire to the window, looking of a rotted /cut wire. If there’s no power on the black wire, test that there’s power from fuse #13, (30 amp) in the under hood electrical center is getting to the relay; if so the relay is likely at fault.
Remember that German made vehicles use brown as the color making ground wires. I guess they have to be different then the rest of the planet? LOL

Dan.

Response From DanD

Are you trying to say something by not saying anything, quoting my last post?

Dan.

Response From saharatj98

strange, my reply did not go through...anyway, found fuse that feeds relay old, had continuity but weak. Replaced it but still nothing. Switch has power and sends power to relay to operate it. Just not getting power supply to relay and obviously not back out to defog..... but, i have 12v to defog when switch is on. somewhere somehow i have a cross feed or something. more digging in tonight..... wiring looks totally stock and clean so no butchering under there at all.... it's a 25 amp circuit and ya, all german cars are tan grounds.... used to it:) but thanks.

Response From saharatj98

I have good power to the relay.... when switched on, it does click but voltage in to the relay drops to .8 and out is .8..... Going to take relay apart and check it out...

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ok: I think I see what's going on and am confused like you are. Seems like amps available just doesn't cut it - like using a 9v little battery would stall out trying to run this.

You would think over time the grids would carry less juice thru them - not so much as to stop the show and as you said it doesn't seem to trip anything. I've run these direct from a batter with jumper clips and they work.

These things just must go thru a breaker and a timer that shuts them down or need to be re set to on if you re-start the vehicle. That's where the problem must be. Must be contact points like like used for ignition probably just don't transfer or contact well enough to transfer the current at full amps needed. You said this got increasingly slower. With points back when we used to file them, align them and things to make them work better. I still have a meter to show how well they were letting current thru which is just an ohm reading. For this there really shouldn't be any resistance. Kind of like if you put a test light between power side wire and the grid connector it would light but not enough power thru just the bulb to make the grids warm.

With that I say the breaker/relay works but doesn't let the amps thru it and that would explain it. Now the question is where is that thing? Can you hear it "tick" when you put it on? Otherwise I have no way to locate that for you,

T

Seeking advice for future car related material

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From cklenz on Seeking advice for future car related material

To disclaim, I apologize if this an irrelevant post to what is normally discussed in this forum. I don't intend to get too personal, but I truly am seeking someones best judgement for anyone who can relate to this.

(I'm in a spot where I'm only flexible with about $2000 currently to invest in a decision)

To sum things up for those who don't want to read a rant, I'm mainly curious if its financially smarter to
A:
Purchase a "used" car that is paid off and more friendly towards personally repairing and customizing but is a possible downgrade in reliability-and a gamble in creating more problems than I already have with my car as of now. Opposed to
B:
Getting involved with a dealership where I will be paying more money on a not so big budget, but getting the reliability benefits and taking off the stress of having an older model that I might possibly have to put the same amount of money down to fix.

I drive a 2001 Volkswagen Jetta (pretty sure its the luxury model), it has 150,000 miles on it (as of now). I got it as my first car for $3000 paid via craigslist. Its been an amazing first car and more than I could ask for. Over the past year though its been subconsciously stressing me out. Slowly like with anyone's car its getting progressively worse and I haven't laid down a penny to act upon it. It started with only catalytic converter problems and has moved to: needing new struts, tires, breaks, bumper and grill replacement, the window tint peeling like crazy and other small first world problems. The plastic pieces above the emergency break have broken same as the glove department. My engine light will randomly come on and recently my auto breaks failed on a hill this winter. I can no longer open my trunk without being in my car due to theft of the custom piece on the back and my speakers are fully blown out.
Aside from my whining I have gratefully only had serious engine problems once and it was fixed by a local mechanic for cheap but never took back the knowledge of what was originally wrong with it . Nothing bad has happened for a while but I feel it coming if I do not fix the small things. About 2 years ago I went in to get repair estimates for the important components of the car. From a trustworthy source it reasonably came to around $1800 (not including interior problems or things that "bug me" aesthetically) That was sadly 2 years ago. Now I'm pretty intimidated by working on my volkswagen myself due to already being inexperienced with cars, but would put time into it if its actually worth it for the long run. But I feel like the same amount could be put into something less stressful like a Honda civic or a "leased" car that wouldn't have me crossing my fingers all the time.
Some say its a good idea for me to trade in my volkswagen for what I can get out of it, and go with what a dealership can negotiate me into and be locked into something (reliability/but costly). It doesnt sound half bad but it is the reason I am posting on this forum for knowledge. I'm barely above being a ghost in the system in credit and I don't know how it works entirely with getting a loan for a car (who to go to and what to do). Financially I have no idea if I could cover it without barely getting by. I only make $1400 a month and am left with barely $500 to spare minus other expenses when I budget properly.

In reality the car was slowly falling apart but half is to blame for me not acting upon the minor things ahead of time. Should I run my poor Volkswagen into the ground until I can trade it in for minimal value and have my saved funds go towards the rest? Or act upon trading it in immediately for a higher value with lower saved funds to account for the decision of switching?

Any stories or advice to handle this properly would be greatly appreciated. I really want to avoid making a bad move just because I have convinced myself this is a big problem.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

In a nutshell a vehicle is a poor investment option unless your someone that can take a vehicle and fix it up and sell it for more than you bought it for including parts. That is unless you can find one really cheap that doesn't need much money put into it and you sell yours and break even or profit.

Unless it becomes desirable in the future and you store it, a new car is also a poor investment. As soon as you drive it off the car lot, it has depreciated in value along with the interest you must pay to operate the loan tacked on top of that. You also need full coverage insurance on a new vehicle that you bought through a bank loan.

With your income, you should focus on saving your money and also finding ways to increase your income level. As for the vehicle your driving, you should be more concerned with the safety and running aspects of it. Forget the grill, paint, interior trim, tint, and all the other parts that are not critical. Sit down and figure out how much it would cost to get it safe and reliable. Don't worry about its value because even if those things were fixed, it is still an old car with lots of miles on it.

Drive it till it can't go anymore, engine or transmission blows or it is totaled in an accident, God forbid. Unless you find something else that is in better condition, that you could afford without making payments, save your money or invest it and focus on making more income, so you can buy a nicer vehicle or even a house in the future.