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We stock Struts parts for most Jeep models, including Cherokee, Commander, Compass, Grand Cherokee, Liberty, Patriot.

Rancho
2011 Jeep Liberty Suspension Strut Assembly - Front 6 Cyl 3.7L Rancho - RS5000 Series Suspension Strut Assembly

P311-437F479    RS5764  New

68031298AC , 68003954AA , 68155259AA , 52088673AE , 68046314AD , 52125307AB , 52088650AE , 68046318AB , 52125307AA , 52088655AA , 52109912AG , 52088673AC , 52125094AE , 68052690AB , 52109912AD , 68046314AB , 52088650AB , 52088650AF , 68003952AB , 52088673AD , 52125094AC , 68003954AB

Qty:
$94.73
Rancho Suspension Strut Assembly  Front
  • Rancho RS5000 Strut
  • w/0 in. Lift/Drop;
  • RS5000 Series Suspension Strut Assembly
  • Product Attributes:
    • Body Length: 9.720 In.
    • Body Type: B4
    • Collapsed Length: 9.700 In.
    • Compressed Bumper Stop: No
    • Cylinder Included: No
    • Dust Shield Included: Yes
    • Extended Bumper Stop: No
    • Extended Hydraulic Lockout: No
    • Extended Length: 13.820 In.
    • Fully Open Length: 13.820 In.
    • Max Year Covered: 2012
    • Min Year Covered: 2002
    • Most Popular Make/Model: Jeep Liberty
    • Most Popular Year: 2007
    • Parts Pack(s): None
    • Product Grade: Premium
    • Reserve Tube Diameter: 1.980 In.
    • Shock Stroke: 4.120 In.
    • Strut Charging Type: Gas Charged Unit - Strut Rod Will Extend Automatically
    • Total Part VIO: 1404939
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65: No
  • Rancho(R) RS5000(TM) struts are available most popular applications at an incredible value. RS5000(TM) struts feature twin-tube construction with 10-stage velocity sensitive valving - for stability and control engineered to each vehicle model.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Rancho
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Position Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Jeep Liberty Sport Front V 6 Cyl 3.7L 226 -
FCS Struts
2002 Jeep Liberty Suspension Strut Assembly - Front FCS Struts - FCS

P311-2DF6C73    336329  New

Qty:
$25.81
  • SUSPENSION STRUT ASSEMBLY
  • FCS
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: FCS Struts
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2002 - Jeep Liberty Front
FCS Struts
2007 Jeep Patriot Suspension Strut Assembly - Front Left FCS Struts - FCS

P311-40D9FD8    331789L  New

Qty:
$42.82
  • SUSPENSION STRUT ASSEMBLY
  • FCS
Brand: FCS Struts
Position: Front Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2007 - Jeep Patriot Front Left
FCS Struts
2007 Jeep Patriot Suspension Strut Assembly - Rear FCS Struts - FCS

P311-19255A6    345484  New

Qty:
$31.68
  • SUSPENSION STRUT ASSEMBLY
  • FCS
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: FCS Struts
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2007 - Jeep Patriot Rear
FCS Struts
2007 Jeep Patriot Suspension Strut Assembly - Front Right FCS Struts - FCS

P311-30ED0DB    331789R  New

Qty:
$42.82
  • SUSPENSION STRUT ASSEMBLY
  • FCS
Brand: FCS Struts
Position: Front Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2007 - Jeep Patriot Front Right
FCS Struts
2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee Suspension Strut Assembly - Front FCS Struts - FCS

P311-143168C    335883  New

Qty:
$67.94
  • SUSPENSION STRUT ASSEMBLY
  • w/o Air Suspension
  • FCS
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: FCS Struts
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Position
2011 - Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo Front
FCS Struts
2006 Jeep Commander Suspension Strut Assembly - Front FCS Struts - FCS

P311-34749BC    335582  New

Qty:
$37.82
  • SUSPENSION STRUT ASSEMBLY
  • FCS
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: FCS Struts
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2006 - Jeep Commander Front
Mopar
2011 Jeep Compass Suspension Strut Assembly Mopar

P311-2E36928    W0133-1947911  New

Qty:
$160.05
Mopar Suspension Strut Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • Off Road Package
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2011 - Jeep Compass
Mopar
2017 Jeep Compass Suspension Strut Assembly Mopar

P311-0DDFE1E    W0133-2063374  New

Qty:
$90.33
Mopar Suspension Strut Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • Exc.Off Road Package
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2017 - Jeep Compass North
Mopar
2011 Jeep Compass Suspension Strut Assembly Mopar

P311-10E95EC    W0133-2030467  New

Qty:
$110.95
Mopar Suspension Strut Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • Off Road Package
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2011 - Jeep Compass
Mopar
2011 Jeep Compass Suspension Strut Assembly Mopar

P311-46C6590    W0133-2030465  New

Qty:
$110.95
Mopar Suspension Strut Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • Off Road Package
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2011 - Jeep Compass
Mopar
2011 Jeep Compass Suspension Strut Assembly Mopar

P311-1525A79    W0133-2030468  New

Qty:
$113.90
Mopar Suspension Strut Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • Exc.Off Road Package
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2011 - Jeep Compass
Mopar
2017 Jeep Compass Suspension Strut Assembly Mopar

P311-3E44D45    W0133-2063377  New

Qty:
$136.48
Mopar Suspension Strut Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • Exc.Off Road Package
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2017 - Jeep Compass North
Mopar
2017 Jeep Compass Suspension Strut Assembly Mopar

P311-3E44D45    W0133-2063377  New

Qty:
$136.48
Mopar Suspension Strut Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • Exc.Off Road Package
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2017 - Jeep Compass North
Mopar
2011 Jeep Compass Suspension Strut Assembly Mopar

P311-54519CB    W0133-2030466  New

Qty:
$113.90
Mopar Suspension Strut Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • Exc.Off Road Package
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2011 - Jeep Compass
Mopar
2017 Jeep Compass Suspension Strut Assembly Mopar

P311-368D8CA    W0133-2063378  New

Qty:
$136.48
Mopar Suspension Strut Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • Exc.Off Road Package
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2017 - Jeep Compass North
Mopar
2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee Suspension Strut Assembly Mopar - with Nut and Bolts

P311-398AC62    W0133-1948422  New

Qty:
$205.21
Mopar Suspension Strut Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
  • w/o Air Suspension

    w/o Load Leveling Suspension
  • with Nut and Bolts
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2011 - Jeep Grand Cherokee

Latest Jeep Repair and Struts Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

97 Jeep Cherokee

Showing 2 out of 11 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From sunshine on 97 Jeep Cherokee

I have a 97 Jeep Cherokee Country, 4x4, 4.0L L6 HO MPI. It had some serious get up and go a couple of weeks ago. In the last two weeks it has gradually lost RPM's. Little by little every other day. It starts "okay", but, it's starting to choke a bit there too. While on the road it takes pressure on the gas to get it to go now. You take your foot off it loses RPM's, you come to a stop, same thing. Going up hills is a chore for it. It idles one bar below 1000 RPM's now when before it was above. I was hoping to get an idea of what it "could" be before taking into a shop and getting a "list" from a mechanic.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Some thoughts and suggestions:

1,000 RPM is too high for an idle speed but it could just be the gauge is off.

Do you have "check engine" light on? I heard that some places like Auto Zone will run a scan for free.

I would take a general look around for the obvious like wireing that may be burned, disconnected, , broken and if unplugged find the two ends and plug it back together. Vacuum leaks can cause all kinds of trouble and many look like wire going to rubber connections. Sometimes you can hear a vaccum leak. If you find that hit back I'll get you thru it.

Air cleaner assemblies need to be intact for some vehicles to run right. Air filter completely plugged up could do this but not fast unless you went thru some amazing dust storm.

_______________________________________

Unless I read your post wrong It sounds consistant with an exhaust restriction which is usually a catylitic converter problem. There are some tests for exhaust restrictions with a vacuum gauge.

Hey - if you don't trust the integrity of a shop find another. They should listen to your observations and even give them a written history of that to go with the repair order. Good luck and let us and the world know how you made out, T

Response From sunshine

Took it in, they had it for two days. Nice they noticed a pushed up shock on the back side with broken bolts. That was a $40 fix. Something I didn't even notice with the lift. Anyway, engine light never came on before or currently and no codes came up on the puter. They changed out the catylitic converter (it was broken up, you could hear it) and thought it was good to go after the test drive. Sure, it almost stalled out on me over the weekend. Next up will be a supreme tune-up at a different place. I'm peeved because I took it to someone we've known a few years and still got jacked. Read through quite a few boards on the net and it seems to be a clogged filter in most cases. I will stay next to the Jeep if I have to at the next place and make sure they check everything. Any comments about Firestone? I don't want to take it to another small shop.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Are you asking about their tires or a place that also repairs cars? I bet you meant a repair place.

Any place is only as good as the mechanic. You can't brand name good or bad on that one and ask to talk to the mechanic and know that person by name! Never hurts to tell the exact mechanic you are happy with the job and ask for that person when you need more service and you'll get the best!!

___________________________________

I worked for a place once, with a white coat service manager and was NOT allowed to talk with customers. Well this jerk gave me a car and an order as to what to do and a really ticked off customer returned the next day with the same problem. Nice lady and I demanded to talk to her as my name was on the repair!! She told me and I fixed it NO time. Sh*t happens even when you try. Most people want you to be happy with their work. Good luck and hit back with whatever. T

Response From sunshine Top Rated Answer

I really do appreciate comments/suggestions. You all have been very helpful in resolving the problem.

First off, all went well with the major tune-up. The Jeep runs great. The RPM's are steadily holding below 1000. Was told a couple of things. All of the spark plugs were corroded, dist and rotor looked to be original (personally looked to be in bad shape) and needed to be replaced, and the oil was goop. I was standing there and had them point out certain things. I'm not mechanical in no shape or form, but, I am getting more knowledgeable as time goes on, heh.

Now, here's something that did stump. A jingle sound when you go over bumps and such. I did not have the suspension checked. Everything came out fine on the computer. The Catalytic is fine. What could the sound mean? It seemed to become more predominant over bumps. Just sitting in traffic you don't hear it. Now, if it's a suspension issue it couldn't be the shocks/struts as they are two months old.

Any ideas?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hi again Sunshine (I really like that name)

The noise is possibly a stabilizer pin or shock absorber. Both use rubber bushings that can fail or the shock can make noise on its own. Could be something else but those are common and not too expensive. Both are much harder to remove than to install new. Ask if so, the quality/grade you want.

The stabilizer bar uses a bar from side to side and is really just a 5-6" bolt with rubber bushings. The bar should just be a round metal part about 1 to 1and half size and the pins can be cheap or more if better ones chosen.

You can just look and see this. Best to do shocks and pins in pairs. If one failed the other may not be far behind. There may be a rear
stabilizer bar too and noises can be tricky so you need to look.

If the oil looked lousy change it at double intervals for a while and the new oil should clean it up.

Hit back as needed and get the noise taken care of. If a serious front end part its a safety issue. Good luck and let us know. We are here to help, T

Response From sunshine

You know, I wasn't all that sure about Firestone, but, with the few times I've taken my vehicle over they have been very helpful and did not try to sell me things I didn't need. They also informed me of some things to look for with owning a Jeep. Yes, the mechanic had suggested the same about the oil. Took it in this morning for a totally different issue and I suppose that goes along with the jingle sound. Test drove it three times (parking lot, feeder road, and highway), took tires off and nothing was out of place or needed to be replaced, put it up on something that spins the wheels and boom, there it was. One back tire doesn't move with the rest. It's a four-wheel drive problem. They do not do that type of work so my next stop will be a specialty shop. I'm guessing that will be a pretty penny, haha. Was told all is mechanically sound otherwise. Thank you for your help.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Brake parts can make noises. Drag lightly when you hear the noise and if it quits that's almost certainly the problem. T

Response From way2old

I have to agree with you Mr. Greenleaf. Sounds like exhaust or fuel restriction.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hey way2old - thanks but you don't need to call me MR. and yes that is my name. Tom is fine. We just keep on rocking here and there and I only will be at friendly sites which I already said this is. Take care - I've got my share of gray hair myself. Lot of years busting knuckles. Now sharing what I can as you are. Be well, T

Response From Bigford460

  • i had a jeep is was doing that to and then i lost oil preasure so check your oil presure and if you truck idels and 1000rpm thats 2 much, it should idle at 500-600, it could just be a simple fuel filter and aircleaner those do make a differnce when changed

  • CV Axle will not come out.

    Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
    Question From jsa7532 on CV Axle will not come out.

    2003
    Ford
    Focus ZX3
    2.0 DOHC
    Automatic Transmission
    85,100 Miles

    I decided to change out my drivers side cv axle. I have taken off the wheel, removed the axle nut, loosened the three strut mounting nuts five turns, and used a puller to press out the driveaxle out of the hub. At this point the cv axle is left to be taken out of the transmission. I've tried to reach in and pull the cv axle out with my hands, used a pry bar for leverage to pop it out, used the pry bar and a hammer to use a bit more force, and used a rope with a slip knot to use repeated forceful jerks in hopes of getting it out. My Chilton repair manual suggest using a slide hammer. I have not been able to find one with the right attachment in order to use that method for removing the cv axle. Anything I have tried has not worked. I have taken the steps in the manual but nothing helps.

    Is there something I am missing? Should the cv axle just pop out as the manual states? Do you have any other recommendations to get the driveaxle out of the transmission?

    Thank you,
    Jim

    Response From Double J

    If you do not have any luck removing it with a pry bar then go to Autozone,
    Rent a Slide Hammer and purchase the adapter to pull the axle .Adapter is $20.00

    / OEM/FWD Axle Puller Adapter Price: $20.00
    / Part Number: 27058
    Alternate Part Number: AZ977 AVAILABILITY: STORE PICK UP AVAILABLE Normally stocked at your local store. SHIP TO HOME AVAILABLE Ships within 2 business days. Eligible for FREE 2-Day Shipping
    learn more | sign in
    Features & BenefitsOEM automotive specialty tools are designed to perform day after day in any environment. Our engineers design tools that maximize both performance and budget. OEM tools out-perform the competition time after time.

  • Use with OEM slide hammer #27033
  • Pull inner CV joints with hidden retaining rings form front wheel drive vehicles without damaging joints
  • Heat treated for strength
  • Black oxide finish to resist rust
  • Part Number: 27058 Weight: 1.05 lbs Warranty: 3 MO Application: Pull inner CV joints with hidden retaining rings form front wheel drive vehicles without damaging joints. Capacity (Tons): 0.25 Color/Finish: Black and Silver Package Contents: 1 FWD Puller Adapter Tool Material: Steel Shipping Information: Overnight and Two Day shipping are not available for PO Box, APO/FPO/DPO or US Territory addresses.

    Response From jsa7532 Top Rated Answer

    I have tried everything, bigger hammer, bigger pry bar, I even parked my Jeep next to it for an anchor to us my come-a-long and it just wanted to pull my car sideways. At this point I will try anything! I'm headed to Autozone to attempt the slide hammer with the adaptor.

    Response From jsa7532

    I went to Autozone and picked up the slide hammer and the attachment and after about ten pulls it was out.

    I want to thank you soooooo much. If it wasn't for this site, I would still be under the car using non G rated language beating away at it.

    Thank you again,

    Jim

    Response From Hammer Time

    Yes, a lot bigger bar. They take an extreme amount of force to release the lock ring that' holding it in. You need to get a very long prybar and get it under the C/V housing and pry against the trans housing. Give it a hard, snapping motion to pop it loose.

    Response From Mr.scotty

    A friend of mine made his own tool for this.
    He took a cheap harborfreight slidehammer and welded a vice grip on the end of it. I'm about to make my own soon.